Tuesday, October 30, 2007; 12:00 PM
Calling all foodies! Join us Tuesdays at noon for What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.
A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.
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For daily dispatches from Kim's kitchen, check out her blog, A Mighty Appetite. You may catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking
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Kim O'Donnel: Happy National Candy Corn Day! There's still time to make your very own extracted teeth-shaped confections, particularly if you're still scrambling for that Halloween gala tomorrow eve. Speaking of Halloween, I'll be out and about tomorrow afternoon at Rose Park farmers' market at 26th & O Streets NW signing copies of " A Mighty Appetite for the Holidays." If you're in the hood, stop on by. But speaking of scary, Thanksgiving is a mere three weeks away, so it's time to start planning those menus! Next week, I offer a veggie Tgiving special (Nov. 8, 1pm), followed by the Omnivore Tgiving special (Nov. 15, 1pm). It's a shorter prep period than usual, so we all have to batten down and start scribbling notes. Let's hear what's on your minds in the meantime....
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New York, N.Y. : Judging from your blog and all the magazines out there, it looks like Thanksgiving is right around the corner.
Last weekend, I roasted my veal bones and made my demi-glaze for my boneless stuffed leg of lamb. I also made turkey stock for the stuffing and gravy, both are in the freezer. Is there anything else I can do, in the week(s) ahead to make like life easier coming down the final stretch?
The Sunday before I plan to make a ricotta cheesecake and sweet potatoe pie, they'll be fine for 4 days in the fridge, right?
Thank you.
Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed; those Thanksgiving special issues are out in full force. Wow, look at you and your plan-ahead self! You can do cranberry about five days in advance. You can make dough at least a week in advance and freeze it until you're ready. Buy your wine and any tools you may need.
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Sweet Potato Humm, U.S.: Kim, I wanted to thank you for the recipe last Thursday. I made the sweet potato hummus you suggested for the Halloween party I attended and it was a huge success! Everyone loved it and when we ran out of pita chips, people were using potato chips to scoop it up. I didn't have cayenne so I used dried red peper flakes but it still turned out amazing! Thank you so much!
Kim O'Donnel: Oh, I'm so glad it worked out. I am really loving sweet potatoes this year, can't get enough of them. That dip is such a snap. For those who missed it last week, here are the how-to details, adapted from Dana Jacobi's "12 Best Foods Cookbook."
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Washington, D.C.: I bought some Earth Balance Shortening sticks. Have you actually baked with it? Did you substitute it completely for butter?
Kim O'Donnel: I have actually baked with it -- and love it. By the way, Mimi Clark, a vegan cooking instructor in Fairfax, Va., will be online with me on the 8th to offer vegan tips for holiday feasting AND baking.
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Sussex, N.J.: I'm finally hosting my first Thanksgiving this year (in my new kitchen!) -- mostly because although my mom does a great job, she sticks to the exact same menu year after year (turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, veg ... you get the idea ) "because that's what people expect." Like they're going to turn around and leave if she mixes it up some. So anyway, 2007 is my year and I really want to have a turducken. I looked online and I'm thinking of ordering from either Cajun Ed's or Cajun Stuff/ and I was wondering if you or any of the chatters have experience with these vendors or if there are other suggested sources. (I am going to check local butchers as well, but I'm not optimistic.) Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Good for you, Sussex! I love hearing these kinds of stories, that people are bucking the family traditions and starting their own. I have not ever ordered a turducken, but this is a good place to ask other readers. So if you've ever ordered one, please chime in!
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Washington, D.C.: I made fresh pasta last night! The process was fun and surprisingly easy. The texture was great, but the taste was only okay. I used 1.5c regular flour, 1.5c whole wheat flour, 1/2 t olive oil, and 4 eggs. Have any ideas for more tasty noodles? Maybe semolina flour? Maybe something else?
P,S. Sauce was great -- fresh tomato, lemon, white wine, capers, garlic, with basil, arugala, and parmesan tossed in when served.
Kim O'Donnel: Good for you! See what you think of the pasta recipe that I learned first-hand. from Nancy Pritchard of Smithfield Farm in Berryville, Va. She uses oat flour in her pasta dough -- and no olive oil. And where's the salt in your recipe?
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Sweet potato hummus error: Hi Kim,
The link works but there is a missing step. After you've wrapped the veggies, then what? Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Put in that 400-degree oven and roast til fork tender, about one hour. Thanks for following up.
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Takoma: Kim,
I have about 2 cups of sweet potato mash leftover from a sweet potato bundt cake that I made this weekend -- what would you do with those 2 cups of mashed sweet potato for dinner? Meat or veg is fine. Thanks
Kim O'Donnel: I would mix with a can of black beans, onions, garlic and a chopped chipotle chile. I did something similar the other night with a bunch of leftover roasted pumpkin.
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Washington, D.C.: I've fallen for the new TV show "Pushing Daisies" and Ned the Piemaker's pies sound delicious. Over the last couple of weeks, they've had apple or pear pie with "gruyere baked into the crust." Any idea for how to make a pie crust with gruyere in it?
Kim O'Donnel: You'd incorporate shredded cheese into your dough, I'm thinking. I do this with cheddar sometimes for potpie crust. I need to take a look at my recipe and I'll follow up with details.
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Fresh Turkey Dilemma: Kim,
I'm cooking my 3rd Thanksgiving Dinner this year for my sister, mother and I. I'm 25 and I've only been exposed to a butterball turkey all my life. I mentioned to my mother that I wanted to get an organic turkey this year (less pumped up with sodium, treated better before processing, etc.) My mom didn't explicitly say she wouldn't eat it but mentioned that it would be too gamey and not taste like regular Thanksgiving turkey. I told her that maybe she has gotten too used to processed food. That went over well (sarcasm).
I don't want to ruin Turkey Day for her, but as I get older, I'm having a harder time eating foods that are extremely processed. I've researched my turkeys and know which brand I want to go with, but I don't want to leaving her hanging on the big day. Will there be enough white meat? Will it be dry? Too gamey? Should I buy turkey breasts on the side and cook those too?
She said she'd eat whatever I choose to make, but wanted to warn me that it would be very different. I want to incoporate some changes with the turkey and the meal as a whole, but I don't want to lose the tradition of our regular Thanksgivings. Any advice? Thanks, love the chats as always!
Kim O'Donnel: Ah, the family drama begins. I have been in your shoes, dear, and the only advice I can give you is to follow the spirit within. As you mention, your mother hasn't flat out refused to eat a more naturally-raised turkey, so take that as a yes and run with it. If she asks you what you decided to do, tell her you haven't, to minimize the drama. Her "warning" that it will be different is her fear oozing out, nothing more. Yes, a naturally raised turkey will be different -- in a good way. If in the end, she doesn't like the new bird, then at least she can say she tried it -- and you can come up with a compromise for next year. In the meantime, you have nothing to fear. A naturally raised bird takes less time to cook, it will likely be more tender, and no, it will not be gamey...unless you're buying a Heritage bird. Hang in there!
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Earth Balance Shortening: Tell me more. Is it butter-flavored shortening a-la-Crisco, or is it something else entirely?
Kim O'Donnel: It's an oil blend -- the Web site has all the details, but it's more like a margarine, but without the hydrogenation, transfats...and no GMO crops.
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Leftover Sweet Potato: This would make a yummy risotto...
Kim O'Donnel: yes indeed! good call.
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Las Vegas Nev.: Hi Kim,
This isn't a "gourmet" question. Do you know of a way to add salt to popcorn (made with a hot air popper) without adding oil to make it stick? I used to have a recipe for soaking the kernels in a salt water solution, drying them, and then popping them as usual. I lost the recipe. I'd appreciate any advice. Popcorn is my favorite snack.
Kim O'Donnel: Try using a sprayer -- and mist with a little water. Not much, but while the popcorn is still misty, add your salt.
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Turducken: Aside from ordering, you could also go to your local butcher and ask them to debone each of the birds for you (for those in D.C., I know that Eastern Market Poultry will debone).
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for this idea. Good one.
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20009: Do you have a recipe for sweet potato or winter squash enchiladas? Had some once and have never quite been able to recreate them. Thank you!
Kim O'Donnel: No, but this sounds pretty darn tasty. I'm thinking black beans, mashed sweets or squash...and we need to come up with the right kind of sauce. Anyone got an idea?
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Shaw, D.C.: Hi Kim --
This past weekend finally felt like fall! I went to both the U Street Farmers Market on Saturday and the Dupont Market on Sunday! Bought cardoons for the first time and did the boil til tender then sauted with shallots in olive oil. I also made the best butternut squash risotto following the America's Test Kitchen method. Basically you saute about 4 cups of the squash and set aside. Then you saute the squash seeds and fibers and any squash not part of the other four cups for a few minutes and then add it to your stock (I used chicken) which results in an incredibly flavored broth. The rest of the recipe is pretty standard (saute leeks, add the rice, start the liquid phase with white wine, etc.) I finished it with sage, nutmeg, and parmesan and can't wait to have the leftovers for lunch!
Kim O'Donnel: Love all this productivity! Nice going, Shaw. I havfe not seen cardoons at my market -- I may have to get downtown. Thanks for your first-hand report.
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Cold weather (healthy) comfort food: Here's a toughie. I have a had rough week at work (I know it's only Tuesday!) and wanted to make myself some comfort food this weekend. But I also want it to be healthy and not a bean or lentil recipe. Any ideas?
This might also be the weekend to whip out that chocolate gingerbread cookie recipe. Made them last year for a dinner party and no one knew how healthy they were!
Kim O'Donnel: So is meat okay? I love me some chicken curry when I'm on the ledge. Talk to me.
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Sussex N.J. Mom: No not really, but I'm guilty as charged! I do let both kids pick a dessert so we get some variety. Just wish I could get my family to eat oyster casserole -- I miss that from my childhood.
Now here's a hint for anyone buying frozen birds: thaw in the fridge upside down. I didn't believe it at first but I swear it does make the breast meat juicier. And don't be afraid to truss the wings to the side and legs in front.
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks Mom. Keep the tips coming...
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Gobble Gobble: I concur with the naturally-raised turkeys. They are much better than butterball. They do cook better and they have FLAVOR! None of the icky bland blahness.
My suggestion is to not tell mom you got the natural turkey until after she eats it. Not to be deceptive, but to allow her to have an open mind and enjoy the turkey first!
Kim O'Donnel: Here's one thought on the reader in a domestic pickle over turkey...
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Comfort food: Homemade mac 'n' cheese is always comforting. I like it with a bit of sauteed kielbasa or smoked sausage.
Kim O'Donnel: that was my first thought...but reader said 'healthy,' so mac & cheez doesn't fit the bill...but I'm with you.
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Annandale, Va.: Farm brands?: After a long discusion...I won....we are having fresh turkey this year (just waiting for Thursday to place in order) now I know that Cibola farms can get it to you at Falls Church farmers market, but Maplelawn farm turkey won last year taste test. Have any of the foodies tried either, both, any recommendations?
Thanks,
First time fresh turkey seeker....
Kim O'Donnel: Last year, I was part of the Food section's blind taste test, and Maple Lawn was the winner. I haven't tried Cibola's turkeys. Any one out there who has? I've been ordering mine from Smithfresh Meats for past five years, and continue to do so because the eating is good.
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Re: Squash/Sweets Enchilda Sauce: Mole sauce would be nice here. Light on the cheese.
Kim O'Donnel: Yes! I need to put something together on this. I learned how to make chicken enchiladas earlier this year...and it's time to receate them with sweet potatoes for autumn...
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Birthday girl: Regarding the squash enchiladas -- Martha Stewart used to have a great recipe on her site for chicken enchiladas with a spicy pumpkin sauce...
Kim O'Donnel: Hmmm. Pepitas would be lovely,yes.
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Butterball or not at all: My parents bought farm-raised turkeys for many years, over 30 years ago. No frozen turkeys for us. A relative told me that he only liked my mom's turkey because it wasn't cooked dry. Evidently it is easy to overcook a turkey. Buy the organic turkey and learn how to cook it right and your mom will never know. Good gravy, great dressing/stuffing, and moist tender meat is the goal for the cook and the diner. No fresh turkey tastes "gamey" unless you are hunting and serving wild turkey. I doubt any domesticated turkey tastes gamey. It's your dinner and can I come over?
Kim O'Donnel: More comments on turkey selection...
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Seattle, Wash.: Hi Kim,
What is a good way to do a big (4-5 lbs) pork shoulder blade for the holiday?
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: I love to do pork shoulder cuban style, marinated in a citrus mojo. I've done this for Christmas in years past, served with black beans, plantains, just fab. Send me an e-mail (kim.odonnel@wpni.com) and I'll get you details.
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim --
Loved the blog about the Thanksgiving food mags. I think those issues are great inspiration for first time hosts to get a lot of great ideas. I still have the ones I bought in the 90s. Nowadays I might tweak the menu by introducing a dish I've discovered in one of my cookbooks or seen on a TV show. Even if I'm going to my aunt's who is hostess extraordinaire and serves the same comforting foods every year, at least I get to introduce some side dish or dessert that is always welcome!
Kim O'Donnel: I think mags are good for inspiration, too, but compared to years past, they're a bit lackluster. I too save mine, and I'm looking through a bunch right now, as they always spark new ways of doing things. For the blog, I didn't include all that's out there -- Cook's Illustrated, Cooking Light, Fine Cooking, Real Simple, Vegetarian Times -- which offer yet other perspectives on entertaining and preparing a feast.
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Lesson for today: If you're going to change up family recipes, don't let on ahead of time. why do family members get to give their approval when it's your house?
Kim O'Donnel: It's an excellent point -- and question. And why do we always seek the approval of our family? After several years of trying to fit into the equation of my mother's Thanksgiving, which involves the family of her significant other, I simply stopped. I wanted to do my own thing, and I wanted to feel unjudged. Now Thanksgiving is my meal, and we get together at other times during the holiday season. It's an agreement we've all come to live with.
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Pumpkin pie?: Hi Kim,
This is probably un-American, but I really don't like pumpkin pie. It's too mushy for me. Pumpkin cheesecake is okay, but I'm looking for a pumpkin-y dessert that does not involve a quivering custard filling. Do you have any thoughts?
Kim O'Donnel: Pumpkin bread is wonderful and definitely unquiver-y. What would you say to a bread pudding with pumpkin bread? That's one of my favorites. Yes, it's got custard, but it's not the jiggly kind.
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Kim O'Donnel: It's time to go, friends. Thanks for stopping by. If you've got a few minutes and live in the DC area, come by and meet me at the following booksigning events:
Wed., Oct 31, 4-6 p.m.: Rose Park farmers' market, 26th & O Sts., NW
Thurs, Nov. 1, 6-8:30 p.m.: National Press Club 30th Annual Book Fair, 14th & F Sts. NW, $5 admission
Saturday, Nov 3, 9 a.m.-noon, Arlington Courthouse farm market, in the Arlington Courthouse parking lot.
For more info, visit


