Free Range on Food

Dish With the Experts

A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.

The transcript follows.

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Joe: Happy chat day, food people. Today, naturally, we have biscuits on the brain (actually, I have biscuits on the brain many days, whether or not I eat them), and hope we inspired you to whip some up. And Stephanie's ode to the pumpkin, with recipes as gorgeous as usual, should cause any right-minded cook to start peeling that gourd. Did Walter's pupuseria crawl get you thinking of undertaking one of your own?

Enough about us: Let's talk about you. What do you think of us? That's an old joke, but seriously -- what's on your mind, your back burner, the inside door of your fridge? What can we help you with today?

For our favorite two posts, we have giveaway books: In the spirit of holiday party-throwing, there's "Fandago: Recipes, Parties, and License to Make Magic" by Sandy Hill; and then for the geekier crowd, there's "Kitchen Mysteries: Revealing the Science of Cooking" by Herve This.

Ready when you are...

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Biscuits: We were out of bread this morning and I wasn't keen on having oatmeal for breakfast. I saw the photo of the beautifully browned biscuits on the back page of the Food section and could taste them just looking at them. And then it hit me--we had an unopened package of Pillsbury Grands! Biscuits in our freezer. I put three on a baking sheet and they were done to perfection precisely when I finished reading your pieces on biscuit making. I had one with sour cream, one with cream cheese, and one with apricot preserves (close, I thought, but not quite the same as the fig preserves made by Miss Claudia). It feels good to have gotten my biscuit fix, even if I didn't make them from scratch.

Joe: I am hoping that my sister is NOT reading this, because her Southern heart might just crack in two, just like a split biscuit, to read that you made Grands... I would tell her, naturally, that of course what you were really doing was using up that freezer package so that you could make room in your kitchen and in your psyche for the from-scratch biscuits that you are surely now planning to make. Right?

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Washington, D.C. : Great article on biscuits! After reading it I feel compelled to chime in and say that I have seen whole buttermilk at Balducci's on New Mexico Ave.

Bonnie: We had a good time eating all the testers' samples. Thanks for the store report...we've also received reports of whole buttermilk at Whole Foods Market.

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stressed out about turkey breast in cleveland park: hi-i'm cooking a bone-in turkey breast this thanksgiving,and can't figure out how many lbs to buy. there are 7 adults (one vegetarian, one elderly who doesn't eat much)and my butcher suggested a 10 lb breast, which seems way too large. even an 8 lb breast would offer leftovers, don't you think? any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks!

Bonnie: Breathe deeply. Three-quarters of a pound per person is a good measure for a bone-in turkey breast, so you should be fine with an 8-pounder.

(You'll be interested in our Chef on Call feature on Nov. 18 -- a Post reader and frequent Free Range chatter, as it turns out, learns how to debone and stuff a turkey breast just that size for her Thanksgiving meal for five.)

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death to pumpkin seeds: I am saddened to report that this is the second year in a row that I have burned (charred) two pumpkins worth of seeds. They were nicely oiled and beautifully seasoned with cajun spice. I checked them frequently, and then it happened again. They burned. How long should I leave pumpkin seeds in the oven?

Bonnie: Maybe the oil's a problem?

You know, I just watched Rock Creek chef Ethan McKee make spiced pumpkin seeds for a garnish (in that same Chef on Call session, the results of which will run Nov. 18), and he used no oil at all -- just 2 tablespoons of water to dampen 1 cup of unsalted, raw seeds. Then he coats them in his spice mixture and bakes them for 8 to 10 minutes in a 325-degree oven, stirring once to make sure they're okay. They came out perfect, and we loved them. He had to swat us away so he'd have enough for the photo shoot.

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Washington, D.C.: I always thought White Lily Flour was cake flour. But Teri's Fluffy Southern Biscuits recipe has this note: "If you don't have White Lily flour, combine 1.5 cups all-purpose flour with 1/4 cup cake flour." What is White Lily and what is it best used for? Thanks very much.

Joe: White Lily isn't cake flour, no. It's got lower protein content than other (Northern-style) all-purpose flours but more protein than cake flour, which is even softer. It's best used, naturally, for biscuits! But also good for pie crusts, quick breads, muffins...

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Silver Spring, Md. : I want to buy shears for poultry (I usually buy whole chickens but want to serve them in pieces to our guests). What brand is the best? I found poultry shears from Henckels, but the reviews on Amazon said that the spring rusts, so I went and bought regular shears from Wusthof. Will these cut chickens well, or should I try to find poultry shears?

I asked this question on Kim O'Donnell's chat yesterday, and someone directed me to a review of shears by America's Test Kitchens, but I'm not a subscriber, so I couldn't see what they said.

Thanks!

Joe: Good kitchen shears can handle poultry, too -- while shears that are particular for poultry (they have bigger, curved blades) are really very awkward to use for anything else. So you made the right decision. The people at Cook's/ATK liked Wusthof's shears in their tests -- also those by Messermeister. So you should be fine, but there's only one way to find out -- start cutting!

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Falls Church, Va.: The biscuit article was great. I've been making family favorite biscuits for years. One universal suggestion for cut biscuits (as opposed to spooned ones) is to use a sharp cutter not a glass. It gives a sharp edge that does not squash the dough and promotes a high rise. I use a clean tomato paste can for little ones and a baking powder can for bigger ones. Take off both the tops and bottoms and you can see what you're doing. Dip the can edge in flour between cuts. I find White Lily flour a little too soft. The last biscuit is always a little nub of dough..."cook's treat" if I can get to it first.

Joe: Glad you liked it! Sounds like you're on top of your own biscuit game.

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Newton, Ma.: Re Biscuits fabulous article. My mouth is watering! I am a beginner when it comes to biscuits and a Northerner, but since my family loves them I try. One of the last batches I made came out sort of more like puff pastry, tasted good but not what you expect in a biscuit. What did I do wrong? Also, is there some way to freeze them, either as dough or cooked?

Joe: Not seeing your recipe, it's hard to know what went wrong with your biscuits, but try some of our recipes today and see how it goes. My sister Teri's Fluffy Southern Biscuits are designed to cook fresh and eat warm -- no freezing of the dough, no freezing of the biscuits. Drop biscuits are an of-the-moment thing, and they come together so amazingly quickly, there's really no need for pre-anything. Now, Charlotte Jenkins says you can freeze her baked biscuits for up to 2 months; and we know that Callie White sells her biscuit dough in frozen form that you bake to order, which makes sense because her dough is much stiffer than Teri's.

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White Lily: Check for it at Harris-Teeter or Food Lion. There's a brand called Hudson Cream that is as fine as White Lily. Also, George Washington brand carries a self-rising flour. You can find it in Giant, Safeway, etc. Pillsbury or Gold Medal also make self-rising flours.

Bonnie: One of our testers made biscuits with one of those other self-rising flours and then again with the White Lily brand, and there was a remarkable difference -- the latter rising much higher. Could be several factors in play, but it convinced us.

Joe: My sister Teri, btw, advocates for regular White Lily, not the self-rising, because it lets you use the aluminum-free baking powder (Rumford). She and many others detect a metallic flavor in the other baking powders, which are the ones in White Lily's self-rising flour. But every palate is different.

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Pumpkin puzzlement: I have a question for Stephanie about canned pumpkin. Is Libby's always just straight pumpkin? Or does it contain other squash if you buy it in the off-season? Someone once told me that it contained butternut squash, which is why it tastes better than when I make my own puree from pure pumpkin.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I heard that rumor as well, but it turns out to be false. Libby's uses 100% pumpkin. I like the homemade too-it has a subtlety the canned misses.

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Pie Crust: Good Afternoon,

I have been baking for a while and really enjoy it but I pretty much stick to cakes and the like. I am really interested in making a pie for a party where I need to impress a bunch of people. I was thinking of an apple-blackberry? Do those flavors sound complementary? And do you all have a good recipe for pie crust?

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Bonnie: Check out this one, which we ran at the end of the summer. It impressed us! The crust was easy. Apple Pie With Black Pepper and Blackberry Glaze

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Tomato, tomahto: I have a table covered with green tomatoes. They were going to be yellow tomatoes, red tomatoes, sungolds, etc, but the weather gods thought otherwise.

What, besides frying them, should we do with green tomatoes?

Jane Touzalin: You can make green tomato pickles, green tomato pizza, green tomato chutneys and relishes, green tomato mincemeat. You can also make this pie; we ran the recipe in 1997.

LATE-SEASON GREEN TOMATO PIE

(One 9-inch pie, about 8 servings)

This lightly spiced, sweet tart is from "A Country Baking Treasury: Pies, Cakes, Cookies" by Lisa Yockelson (HarperCollins, 1995). The filling has a jamlike quality and an intense green tomato flavor.

Unbaked dough for 1 double-crust pie

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

4 cups of 1/4-inch-thick slices of green tomatoes

2 tablespoons dark raisins, plumped in boiling water for 10 minutes, drained and dried

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits

FOR THE CRACKLE SUGAR GLAZE:

1 tablespoon sugar

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Line a 9-inch pie plate with half of the pie dough. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Combine the flour, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves in a large mixing bowl. Add the tomatoes, raisins and lemon zest to the flour mixture and fold in thoroughly.

Spoon the filling into the chilled pie crust and dot the top with butter. Fit the remaining pie dough over the filling, then seal and flute the edges of the dough decoratively. Refrigerate for 10 minutes.

For the glaze: Brush the top of the pie dough with 2 tablespoons ice-cold water and then sprinkle with the sugar. Cut several steam vents in the top crust with a sharp paring knife.

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue baking for about 50 minutes longer, or until the pastry is golden.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Serve at room temperature.

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Heavenly biscuits: Loved all the biscuit variations. One tip for aspiring biscuit makers--if you're going to use a biscuit cutter, don't twist to cut out the dough. Twisting seals the edges and they won't rise as high. Just press down and then pull straight up to release.

Bonnie: It seems there are definitely glass and no-glass camps among biscuit makers. I think it all depends on how assiduously you flour the glass rim. I grew up watching someone make biscuits with a well-floured glass, and they rose just fine.

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Pupusas: Thanks for your article about pupusas, as a person from Central American roots- I can tell you we love our pupusas. I will try to go and to my pupusas crawl over the weekend. My favorite are the rice flour ones though- there is a restaurant right next to Dona azuzena in Arlington that makes respectable ones. Also there is this place in Columbia pike and Walter Reed Rd that make Crab ones that are really good.

Thanks again!

Now I'm craving bisquits and pupusas....I'm going to gain my holiday weight before the holidays!

Walter: The pupusa crawl was fun and I'm happy that you will continue in my place. I can't say I liked the rice pupusa. Or, maybe I didn't find a good one. They left me wanting for the flavor of corn.

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Georgetown, De.: Me again! Completely off topic...can you recommend specifics for a pastry bag and tips. A good site to buy them? I'm thinking of those big, honking bags that Martha and Julia use(d). I would only need tips for like pastries and meringues, no fine decorating. Thanks again for a great chat forum! Mooch in Delaware

Joe: Get thee to www.wilton.com.

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Washington, D.C.: Will you answer a roll question?

The Express had a recipe for tasty sounding maple pumpkin rolls a couple of weeks ago. I thought they would be appropriate for the Turkey Day Feast. Can I bake and freeze them in advance then warm them up on the big day? Should I let them defrost first or just toss the frozen rolls in the oven?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Bake away.They'll be great. Just pack tight before you freeze.

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Washington, D.C.: Did I read in the article that people have trouble finding White Lily flour? I think Harris Teeter, being a good southern grocery chain, regularly has it in stock.

Jane Touzalin: Yes, we did mention Harris Teeter, along with Balducci's and Williams Sonoma. But for all of these stores, it's best to call ahead to a specific store to see if the flour is in stock. For example, we found it at the Harris Teeter at Lee-Harrison but not at the chain's Glebe Road store.

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Hey punkins!: I am sure this is blasphemous, but what would be a good substitute for the pumpkin in today's recipes, esp. the chowder? I'm thinking sweet potatoes for the consistency and sweetness. Or, butternut squash?

The squirrels already ate into my pumpkin, and I certainly can't buy them all winter.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Butternut squash is a perfect substitute. For all those out there who don't want to wield a big knife-and I know you're out there-butternut squash is available peeled, seeded and cut into chunks.

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Washington, D.C.: The item on the Burrito Man today was slightly confusing to those of us who have known for a while that he was leaving town -- last time I was there, he said he was selling his business to someone with a spot a couple of blocks away, who would continue selling the same great burritos. But your article today made it sound like there will be no more burritos, period. Can you please clarify?

Walter: There was a breakdown in communication between Burrito Man John Rider and the would-be someone who expressed interest. At this time the cart will close on Nov. 20. But it is possible that the two men will iron out their problems.

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Ann Arbor, Mi.: I would like to buy my sister-in-law a baking cookbook for Christmas - geared towards cakes, etc. She lives in Switzerland - I don't know if that is much of an issue with regard to ingredients, etc. Any suggestions? I love my Maida Hatter cake books, do you think those would work?

Bonnie: Can't go wrong with the updated Maida Heatter dessert book, but there are also some good new baking coobkooks for the season. We're reviewing a pile of them in our Dec. 12 issue.

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D.C. - Roasting pumpkins: On a side note, I tried opening the article on roasting pumpkins but it was linked to an unrelated article.

I do have a question about roasting pumpkins. Earlier this week, I roasted a pumpkin (one of those large ones from a pumpkin patch) for the first time and used it for a savory pumpkin soup. I roasted them cut side down in a shallow pan with some water. The soup, unfortunately, had very little pumpkin flavor. Was this because of the type of pumpkin I used or my cooking method? How do I get a stronger pumpkin flavor?

I really like the idea of cooking savory dishes with pumpkin. Next week, I'm planning on taking a shot at pumpkin ravioli with hazelnut creme sauce.

Bonnie: You might also like to try next week's Dinner in (20) Minutes recipe, which is a pasta with a pumpkin cream sauce. It uses canned pumpkin and milk, and it's easy and good.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I find pumpkins vary in flavor. I like the ones with a deeper orange color, but there's no way of knowing until you open it up. Try substituting butternut squash. I think you'll get the flavor you're looking for.

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Arlington, Va.: I really want to make Dinner in a Pumpkin, but forgot to buy a pumpkin during the Halloween rush last week. Where can I get one now?

Bonnie: Man, they disappeared, didnt they? There are still pumpkin patches around, and i've seen the smaller ones at some Whole Foods.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I've also seen some in the farm markets that are still open.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Oh boy I cannot wait to try pupusas. I have been hearing about them for a long time and your article brought it to the forefront. There is a woman in the lobby of my building every morning who works for maintenance and I am sure this is what I see her serving to her fellow workers every morning. Tomorrow I plan to ask her if they are pupusas and can I buy one. She is from El Salvador. I can get my pupusa and bring it right to work to enjoy. Diversity in the United States works.

Walter: What a treat-a pupusa cook right in the lobby. But there is something to be said for hot pupusas straight from the griddle. That's the way they are best enjoyed.

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Burke, Va.: Actually, would pumpkin biscuits be possible? I imagine they'd be awfully heavy though - maybe pumpkin scones?

Joe: From my experience, indeed, biscuits are best left unflavored -- and then slathered with your favorite jam of the moment, along with more butter, of course. So pumpkin butter for the biscuits, sure, but leave the pumpkin out of the batter itself. Scones, indeed -- and here's a recipe we published from Marcy Goldman awhile back that also uses cherries.

PUMPKIN AND SOUR CHERRY SCONES (24 small scones)

There's no disputing the American roots of these spicy scones.

2 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading dough

3/4 cup sugar

3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon ginger

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/4 teaspoon mace

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter

6 tablespoons shortening

3/4 cup canned pumpkin puree

1 egg

1/2 cup sour cream or plain yogurt

1 cup dried or frozen sour cherries, coarsely chopped*

Milk for glazing

Coarse sugar for sprinkling

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice and mace.

Cut butter and shortening into the flour mixture until it all has the size and quality of small crumbs. In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, egg and sour cream. Stir into the flour mixture and lightly mix to form a soft batter. Fold in cherries.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board. Knead gently a few times. Divide dough in two sections. Pat or roll each section out to a circle of 6 to 8 inches. Cut in 4 quarters, then cut each section into 3 wedges. Transfer the wedges to the prepared baking sheet. Brush with milk and sprinkle with sugar. (If coarse sugar is not available, regular white sugar can be used, about 1/2 teaspoon per scone.)

Bake in the preheated oven until done, 12 to 14 minutes.

* Note: You can substitute dried or frozen cranberries for the cherries.

Per scone: 160 calories, 19 gm carbohydrates, 21 mg cholesterol, 71 mg sodium, 2 gm protein, 8 gm fat, 4 gm saturated fat

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Silver Spring, Md.: The biscuit article this morning just made me kick myself once more for never writing down the "recipe" from the Chalfonte in Cape May, NJ, where I worked in kitchen prep for a summer. Their recipe's in their cookbook, but the ladies prided themselves on having given slightly wrong instructions (that would still turn out okay) for that one... Guess I'll have to try yours.

On to a question... I have a pumpkin sitting in the basement waiting to be roasted for pumpkin puree. Do you have any estimate as to how much puree I'm likely to get per pound of pumpkin?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I get somewhere around about 1 1/2 to 2 cups puree from a 2 1/2 pound pumpkin. Hope that helps.

Joe: And we'd put any of our three Southern biscuits up against those New Jersey biscuits any day of the week!

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Richmond, Va.: you haven't had a southern biscuit til you've had a beaten biscuit. The trouble is they take SO much work. Used to know an old lady who sold them, but I doubt she's around any more.

Joe: Rolled and cut, drop, beaten, angel -- there are lots of biscuits out there, indeed. Every Southerner's favorite biscuit is his or her own, naturally -- or of course the one that can no longer be had!

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Damascus, Md.: I missed the vegetarian chat a couple weeks ago, but someone was asking for recommendations for vegetarian broths. I became a vegetarian about 15 years ago and my problem has always been that -- at least to me -- the vegetable-only broths just aren't hearty enough to support a really tasty soup or stew.

A few years ago, I ran across Better Than Bouillion's mushroom base and I've become very enamored of it. I've found that if I use it at about 1.5 times the recommended strength, it makes an absolutely wonderful broth for vegetarian soups: strong, complex, hearty, and able to stand up to just about anything I throw at it, and it really complements the flavors of the veggies in my soups and stews really, really well.

I also use it as a replacement for any recipe that calls for a beef-y taste (I make a mean portabella stroganoff). The only caveat I have with it is to taste your sauce/broth before over-adding the base, as it can make things too salty for me. But I really do love it!

Bonnie: That is a good product. I've got some in my fridge right now.

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Ashburn, Va.: Hi foodies. I've been receiving coupons for two of those food assembly places where you go and put together freezable meals to take home and cook. I'm trying to decide which one to try out. Didn't the food section rate the various places? And can you tell me which one you liked best?

Bonnie: We did, but the answer won't help someone with a signon of Ashburn...Thyme Out in the Kentlands (Gaithersburg) was the one we liked best. It may be helpful for you to go online and compare the monthly menus of the places you have coupons for. Sounds like lots of those places will be offering pre-made Thanksgiving foods to take away, incidentally.

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Arlington, Va.: Making Thanksgiving dinner for 6 for the first time in my new place with an apartment sized kitchen including an apartments sized oven, European sized refrigerator and 18 inch dishwasher. Any advice? How can I cook everything in my itty bitty oven and keep everything in my itty bitty fridge? Help!

Bonnie: A small kitchen can be a key organizing factor for Thanksgiving prep (I've got one myself). It's a matter of planning and timing. Set up a schedule, figure out what you'd like to make. Cook/bake side dishes and dessert a day or two in advance. Remember that a small turkey or turkey breast won't take as long to roast.

To help solve your small fridge probs, buy/borrow/rent the largest portable cooler you can find -- maybe keep it on the balcony, if you have one. Pack carefully with ice that's been flattened in large resealable plastic food storage bags and flat ice packs. Layer well-wrapped baked/cooked goods in the order of when you'll need to pull them out. And maybe enlist the fridge space of a neighbor? Sometimes the barter of baked goods to come goes a long way...

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Mineral, Va.: I was wondering about a recipe I've seen, even in Corriher's book: Angel biscuits. It uses yeast. I must admit I've never used it (I use White Lily's flour and their recipe) but I've always wondered exactly why there's a biscuit recipe that uses yeast?

Jane Touzalin: Angel biscuits are lighter and airier than regular biscuits; they're also delicious. The yeast makes them a little more labor-intensive. Typically, angel biscuit recipes produce a large quantity of dough that then is refrigerated, and for several days you just pinch off as much as you need to make a batch of biscuits whenever you want. Great stuff!

Jane Touzalin:....And here's a recipe. As Thanksgiving approaches, note the reference to turkey leftovers!

MARCY GOLDMAN'S FLAKY ANGEL BISCUITS

(Makes about 2 1/2 dozen biscuits)

A combination of leaveners -- yeast, baking powder and baking soda -- make these Southern biscuits extra light. Traditionally, a big batch of the dough is made and kept refrigerated. Portions, cut off as required, ensure that every meal has a basket of piping-hot little breads. Incidentally, this same dough, rolled thin or simply hand-stretched, then fried up in olive oil or slapped on an open grill, produces tender/chewy, absolutely incredible flatbreads (similar to Indian naans) -- great for rolling around turkey leftovers.

About 5 cups all-purpose flour

8 teaspoons (2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons) baking powder

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup cold unsalted butter

1/2 cup cold shortening

5 teaspoons dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water

1 3/4 to 2 cups warm buttermilk

Melted butter (optional)

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda and sugar. Cut the butter and shortening into the flour mixture until it's well distributed and the mixture is crumbly.

In a small bowl, sprinkle the dry yeast over the warm water and stir briefly. Allow to dissolve and swell. Add the yeast mixture and the warm buttermilk to the flour mixture and toss with a fork to blend and moisten, creating a soft dough.

Cover bowl and refrigerate overnight, or for as long as 2 weeks.

To bake, remove a portion of dough. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a lightly floured board, pat out dough into a rectangle. Fold into quarters (to give the biscuits a little extra spring). Roll out to a thickness of 1 inch. Cut into rounds, wedges or squares with a knife or a biscuit cutter. Brush generously with melted butter. Place on baking sheet and, if desired, sprinkle lightly with a bit of flour. Bake until lightly browned on top, about 12 to 15 minutes.

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Farragut North: Hi, there food gurus! Thanksgiving's at my mother's house this year and since I love cooking, and will be there several days ahead of time, I'd like to make a couple fantastic side dishes, beyond the traditional dishes we usually have. I'm thinking butternut squash risotto, something like that....Not too many people, probably around 12. Any great suggestions? Tanks so much!!

Joe: You must wait. You must wait one week. You must wait one week for access to such recipes as Red Potato Slices with Lemon & Olives; Sweet Potato and Grits Spoonbread; Persimmon, Pomegranate and Pecan Salad; Perfect Mashed Potatoes; Best-Ever Green Beans Amandine, With Leek Chips; Brussels Sprouts With Glazed Pecans. Should I go on? I think that would be cruel. Just wait.

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Washington, D.C.: Well, I'm sick at home today, but the food section has

helped revive my appetite! The pumpkin recipes sound

great, and I have a really easy way to prepare wild rice in

advance for dishes like the one printed. It's a recipe for

"overnight wild rice". Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

Put wild rice in a baking dish with a lid, add twice as much

boiling water as rice, put on lid, and put in oven. Turn off

oven and leave it overnight. In the morning, you will have

perfect wild rice. I have tried it with one cup of rice to two

cups water and two cups of rice to four cups water, and it

has worked well. I don't know how far up or down you

can scale it.

Now, with the pupusas, do you have any recipes for the

dough? And some guidelines to the amount of filling per

amount of dough? I was thinking of all the yummy

possibilities...

Joe: Thanks for the wild-rice tip. As for pupusas, we ran this recipe for Ceiba Family Pupusas back in May.

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Cookbooks as gifts: Hi -- Just wondering what cookbooks, new or old, you would recommend giving as gifts for the holidays? In the past, I've enjoyed giving Zuni Cafe by Judy Rodgers and Sunday Suppers by Suzanne Goin, but I need new ideas. My main criteria is that the cookbook should be based on technique -- i.e.., you should learn to be a better cook in addition to increasing your recipe reportoire. Your thoughts would be much appreciated!

Joe: Check out Bonnie's cookbook-gift-guide, coming Dec. 12.

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Georgetown, De.: Hi all! I made the Syrian beef stew with prunes (recipe was provided in one of the chat sessions) and the triple-layer chocolate cake with peanut butter filling (from the Girl Scouts bake sale article). Both were fabu-licious!!! Thanks for all the great reads on your columns here in the food section.

Bonnie: Two winners. We applaud your good taste.

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For Ann Arbor: If you are sending a US cookbook to Europe, do send along US type measuring spoons and cups. That means she doesn't have to convert every recipe in order to use it.

I've tried convertible measuring spoons, but it's much easier to just use a nice set of spoons in whatever system you're cooking in that day.

Most ingredients will be the same or close enough for baking, you should be ok with that aspect.

Jane Touzalin: Some practical gift giving advice. Great idea. Also useful would be a good kitchen scale that weighs in ounces/pounds and can also switch to metric weight.

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Bethesda, Md. : Hi Rangers- I'm searching for a wonderful Chocolate Peanut Butter Rice Krispie Treat recipe that I believe I found in the post back in 2001. Can't seem to find it using the recipe finder. Does it sound familiar? Thanks!

Joe: It sure does. Here you go...

Chocolate Peanut Butter Squares

(Makes 16 squares)

A yummy throwback to that childhood treat of gooey marshmallowy toasted rice cereal treats -- but with the addition of peanut butter and chocolate. Adapted from Rosie magazine.

For the squares:

Nonstick spray oil

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, plus additional for working

1 bag (10 1/2 ounces) miniature marshmallows

1/2 cup creamy peanut butter

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

6 cups toasted rice cereal

1 cup unsalted peanuts, chopped (optional)

For the glaze:

3/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup heavy (whipping) cream

2 teaspoons light corn syrup

Mini candy-coated chocolate bits

For the squares: Line a 9-inch square baking pan with enough foil to extend 2 inches beyond the edge of the pan on 2 opposite sides. Lightly coat the pan with spray oil.

In a 6-quart pot over low heat, melt the butter. Add the marshmallows and cook, stirring constantly, until almost completely melted. Add the peanut butter and vanilla, stirring until the mixture is thoroughly blended and smooth. Add the cereal and, if desired, peanuts and mix quickly until the cereal is evenly coated with the marshmallow mixture.

Working quickly, scrape the mixture into the prepared baking pan and set aside to cool until only slightly warm. Using lightly buttered hands or a spatula, lightly press the mixture into an even layer; the mixture should reach about 3/4 inch below the edge of the pan.

For the glaze: In a 1-quart (4-cup) glass measure or microwave-safe bowl, microwave the chocolate chips, cream and corn syrup on high power for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes; whisk until smooth. Pour the mixture over the bars and, using a spatula, spread it evenly. Sprinkle with chocolate bits. Refrigerate until set, about 1 hour.

Remove the squares by lifting the ends of the foil from the pan. Peel off and discard the foil. Cut the large square into 4 equal strips and cut each strip into 4 squares for a total of 16 squares. (May store squares in an airtight container at room temperature or cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

Per square: 238 calories, 3 gm protein, 32 gm carbohydrates, 12 gm fat, 14 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 158 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

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Washington, DC: Hi there - Can you tell me what's "half" about half-smokes? Are they only 50% smoked? Or is each half a link? Thanks.

Walter: Washington's half-smoke is not smoked at all. Made of beef, pork or a combo of the two, the name is said to have come from the practice of splitting the sausage in half while grilling.

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Too late for Hanukkah: So the cookbook gift guide comes out Dec. 12.

Do you know Hanukkah will be over by then? Won't really be helpful.

Joe: Pardon my mistake -- it's actually scheduled for Dec. 5 (the day after Hanukkah begins, correct?)

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Washington, D.C.: mmmmm, pupusas. How well do pupusas freeze? Do you think I could go to one of the recommended shops, and pick up a few to keep in my freezer for lunches or hectic evening dinners?

Walter: Pupusas do freeze well and frozen pupusas made in El Salvador are available in Latin American markets here. Or, you can buy them from the pupuserias. But do let them know that you intend to freeze them so they won't heat them on the griddle.

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Pumpkin patch, Va.: We planted a pumpkin patch for my 3 and 5 year olds (they loved having their names etched on the sides!). Now we have about 15 sugar pie pumpkins to eat, so we are thrilled to have the recipes.

Can I make a fresh version of canned pumpkin puree by roasting it and then scooping it out and pureeing? I guess I'm worried about moisture content, etc.

Thanks!

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: You sure can. Cut the pumpkin in half or into pieces and remove the seeds. Place cut sides down in a pan. Add just enough water to cover bottom of pan. Bake in 350 degree oven until tender. Scoop/scrape out flesh and puree in a food processor until smooth.

Your homemade puree is great for soups, pies and fillings. For muffins, breads etc.. you're absolutely right-the moisture content will be a problem. Stick to the canned.

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food processor?: Could I use a food processor to cut the butter/shortening into the biscuits, and also with the PUMPKIN AND SOUR CHERRY SCONES recipe?

Joe: Yes, just make sure to pulse; don't leave the machine running, or it'll go too far. And take the dry ingredients out and mix in the wet by hand.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Rangers, I made the vegetarian chili from your past chat with Levita Mondie-Sapp and while I am not a vegetarian this is a dish that would make any meat eater happy. I also made a spicy chicken flu chaser soup with 20 cloves of garlic. I have some nice staked containers of both in my freezer. Love you chats - keep up the excellent work!!

Joe: Great news! Levita will be thrilled.

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Washington, D.C.: After years of roasting giant birds, I'm having a pared down Thanksgiving this year and am just going to roast a breast (or two...). I'm a religious briner and am wondering if it would be worthwhile to brine the breasts as I would a whole turkey since I won't really have to worry about overcooking in order to get the dark meat cooked through. What do you think?

Jane Touzalin: I usually brine turkey breasts, and I think they come out moister and more flavorful -- but I admit I've never done a Cook's Illustrated-type experiment of roasting one of each and comparing. Maybe next time I have some time on my hands....

Joe: We'll have a brined turkey breast recipe in our special Sunday section, Nov. 18.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Me again, the one who has the lady in the lobby handing out/selling pupusas. I believe what she is handing out is hot because it is in what appears to be a heated carrier. And, you've given me an idea. I will go down early and take it back upstairs and enjoy with a hot cup of tea THEN go to work. Oh happy day!

Walter: That sounds like a great idea. Let us know what kind she sells and how they tasted next week.

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Joe: We're fresh out ... of time! Thanks for coming to the chat, and we'll see you next week.

But first, the book winners: The Arlington chatter making T-giving for the first time in a new kitchen will get "Fandango," for party ideas; and the Falls Church chatter who suggested a tomato can for biscuit cutting will get some more cutting-edge ideas from "Kitchen Mysteries." Send your mailing info to food@washpost.com, and we'll get them to you.

Until next time, happy cooking, eating and, of course, reading.

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