In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Tom Sietsema:"I always knew I'd come home."

Bryan Voltaggio, the 31-year-old executive chef and general manager at Charlie Palmer Steak, tells me he's leaving the popular Hill steakhouse after 4 1/2 years next month to return to his roots: Frederick, Md., where he plans to open a place of his own in an 1880s-era mansion at 228 N. Market.

The restaurant, which will include an outdoor terrace and an open kitchen, will feature "forward-thinking American cuisine" representing "my all my experience as a cook and a chef," says Voltaggio, who plans to call the 60-or-so seat restaurant Volt. Voltaggio, who leaves with boss Charlie Palmer's blessing, formerly worked at the acclaimed Aureole in New York.

Taking Voltaggio's place in Washington will be his long-time sous chef, Matthew Hill. Volt is expected to set sail by "late spring or early summer," says Voltaggio.

Lots of news to follow today! (Can you believe this weather? In January? I've seen restaurants seating guests outdoors since Monday.)

Bring on your rants, raves and comments, folks.

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Hungry in Chevy Chase: What restaurant/event/food are you most eagerly awaiting for 2008?

Tom Sietsema: I can't wait for the new Sushi-Ko to open in Chevy Chase ... for Tom Power to open his new restaurant near the convention center ... to try the restaurant scene in Beijing before the Olympics ... for the Inn at Little Washington's 30th birthday bash in the city this spring ... for shad season to come in March .... the list is endless.

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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Tom - love the chats! Any word on Colvin Run Tavern? We've really missed them since they closed and were hoping to hear about a new location soon ...

Tom Sietsema: No word yet, but I promise to share news as it's forthcoming. A lot of people miss the place, one of the few independants in Tysons.

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D.C. in San Diego: Sushi Tipping: Hi Tom -

I'm a bit confused on tipping when seated at a sushi bar. If you grab a table, the tipping situation seems the same (server does it all). But when seated at a sushi bar, a server may bring your drink and apps, but you typically hand your order to the sushi chef and watch as they methodically prepare.

The bill often is returned to you by the server.

Question is: how much do you throw in the tip jar vs. leave on the bill itself in this situation? 20% on bill, a buck or two in the jar? 10% in the jar?

Thanks!

DC resident traveling in San Diego this week

Tom Sietsema: Restaurant policies vary; some servers are required to pool tips with the sushi cooks, others are not. I'd ask a manager what the deal is.

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Banning Kids: I just saw on the CNN website that Disney World has banned young children from its high-end restaurant. While I can understand why they would do that, and the article points out that there are 97 other restaurants at Disney World that don't ban kids, it is ironic that Disney World is banning kids.

Tom Sietsema: The posh Victoria & Albert's isn't banning ALL children, just those under 10 years of age.

I think it's fine. Mom and Dad need some R & R, too, right?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Hill-dweller here who excitedly read your review of Locanda and has tried a couple times in vain, albeit somewhat last minute in light of the glowing reviews, to get a reservation. Imagine my delight when last Friday evening around 6:00 p.m. I called to see if they could fit the two of us in and they said yes, of course, they'd be delighted to have us at 8:00! So we bundled up and walked over -- a miserably cold night -- happy to know we had the coziness of the warm little spot as our reward and, guess what? The heat was off. I don't mean "not functioning properly" but off. Zilch. And we learned it had been apparently for many hours. Do I know this because the hostess told us when we arrived? Or when we called to make our reservation? Nope. I only learned this because the couple seated next to us (after we had ordered wine) and decided to finally take our coats off (we thought we were just taking a while to adjust from the cold walk over) said to us we might want to rethink the coat removal as the heat was, in fact, off. That's when we noticed our co-diners all around us eating in coats, scarfs and gloves. No exaggeration. So we try to make the best of it as it's clearly too late to go elsewhere, ordered our food and drank our wine. When we said the obvious to the waiter, that it was very cold there, he said "yes, people have been saying that all night." We thought the people next to us might have been exaggerating so we asked if there really was no heat and he confirmed. No. Heat.

I realize that calling everyone who'd made a reservation prior to the heat system failure, or even closing the restaurant, might have been difficult to improssible, but would it have been too much to ask that they had at least told us about the lack of heat when we called for our last-minute entry? It was clear from the waiter and the crowd that this had been going on for hours when we called not even two hours earlier. And again, it was not at all like the weather we've been having this week, but one of those few arctic blast days we've had.

We should have brought it up to the manager, I know that. But it was Friday, we were tired, hungry and cold and it seemed, well, obvious to point out that the heat was off and that may affect the quality of our dining experience there. It would've been nice to know that before we sat down and ordered anything, but it was so outrageous it seemed a little funny at first so we thought we'd be good sports about it, and quite honestly, if the food had been good, we would have and you wouldn't be hearing from me now. But ice cold burrata? Mealy pasta? Just...wow.

Thoughts?

Tom Sietsema: What a shame. When the heat is on, Locanda is a terrific restaurant. But are you saying the FOOD was also cold as YOU were? That's not good. At all.

If I were the owner, I would have let reservation holders know about the situation ahead of time (their contact numbers were available, right?) and new callers CERTAINLY should have been made aware of the uncomfortable dining room temperature.

Grrrrr. (Or should I say Brrrr.?)

washingtonpost.com: Review of Locanda.

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Connecticut: Tom -

Hope you can help out! My girlfriend and I are coming back to DC for a long weekend (both lived in DC at different times since the 1990s) and we booked dinner at Central, which is exciting for us.

We're meeting some friends for drinks beforehand. Because it's been a while since we were in DC, where is a hip, but not "of the moment," location for before-dinner cocktails? Also, does dinner at Central mandate a jacket and tie, or can I forgoe the tie at least?

Thanks so much. LOVE the chats!

Tom Sietsema: The bar at the Willard (Red Robin? Round Robin?) could be fun, as could the bar at the Occidental.

Coats and ties are not required at Central. I've seen people wear everything (and very little!) there.

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Mt. Pleasant: Pasta Mia? I have never read anything about the place, but always wondered...worth the long line out the door?

Tom Sietsema: It's been so long since I've stood in line to eat there -- we're talking 10 years -- I can't tell you. Does anyone out thee have more recent experience with the place?

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Washington, D.C.: Tom: Lately, I have heard radio advertisements where the announcer sounds just like you. Have you expanded your multi-talents into radio commercials as well?

Tom Sietsema: I do short segments for WTOP on Thursdays and Saturdays, so maybe it IS me you're listening to. But I'm plenty busy with print work to add more media to my plate.

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Victoria and Albert's in Walt Disney World: Tom, don't forget that Walt Disney World is a huge vacation destination for adults without children as well. It's the #1 honeymoon destination in the US. Certainly there can be ONE restaurant in the entirety of the area that does not allow children under 10. I really hope they do not catch too much grief over this. Even within the same hotel where V & A's is located there are several wonderful restaurants for little ones.

Tom Sietsema: As the original poster mentioned, Disney World has nearly 100 other dining options where kids are welcome.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi, Tom- It doesn't matter to me whether you post this or not. I just wish to encourage you to review the Hemisphere (reopens March 2008) at the Greenbrier hotel in West Virginia, and 1785 Tavern in nearby Lewisburg. I know this is four hours from downtown D.C., but know you sometimes cover restaurants farther away than that.

My wife (an omnivore) and I (a vegan) flipped over Hemisphere's food. http://www.greenbrier.com/site/dining-hemisphere.aspx . The service also was great.

1785 Tavern is a nice change of pace from eating days on end at the Greenbrier. Once again, my wife and I both flipped over their food -- though Hemisphere is in its own stratosphere -- and the service also was great. http://www.tavern1785.com .

We plan to return to the area at least annually in large part because of these two restaurants. If you know of similar restaurants closer to D.C. which cheerfully accommodate vegans, please let me know.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the prompt. I got a chance to taste Hemisphere's "global" food before the place opened last year, at a preview for participants of the Greenbrier's annual food writing symposium, where I was a speaker. BTW: Hempishere's chef is Michael Voltaggio, brother of Brian Voltaggio of Charlie Palmer Steak on the Hill.

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Locanda: Instead of looking for a freebie, why not turn around a walk out. If it was August and the A/C was broken, would you have stayed?!?!

Tom Sietsema: Good point. But the poster mentioned being tired and not wanting to look for another restaurant ...

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Crystal City, Va.: My recently widowed mother is turning 80 this week and I would like a recommendation for a suitable place to take her for a really nice dinner on Saturday. She is stylish and elegant, looks and acts much yonger than her actual age. I was thinking about the Prime Rib. Is it still a nice place or can you recommend something that would be more appropriate.

Tom Sietsema: The Prime Rib is great, old-fashioned fun, and if you like (soft) live music, you're in for a treat. But I'd also consider the Oval Room, Vidalia and Palena -- three comfortable and delicious dining rooms.

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom, a question:

What do you do if you make a reservation at a restaurant that after making the reservation (but before you dine there) changes everything (i.e. name, menu, chef)? Is it usual for the restaurant to at least call you to let you know of the changes? (We were told it was the same ownership, just "different concept".) My fiance and I dined at just such a place and probably would not have chosen to dine there had we known they had made the changes.

Tom Sietsema: Can you provide a name? Describe how big the change was?

A diner has a right to know what he's getting into.

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Disney World : I have a two-year-old son, who is good as gold, mostly, when we're out to eat. For a two-year-old.

That said, if we're at Disney World with him, the high-end restaurant would probably be the last place we'd try to take him anyway. Why should we be bothered that _ONE_ restaurant is adults-only, in a place full of 'em? Is it that irresistibly good, incomparably better than any other eating place within range? Then we'll hire a sitter. Sheesh. Get a grip, people. I could see a problem if every restaurant in the area, or even half of them, were adults only, but one out of a hundred or so?

Tom Sietsema: Okay, let's end the discussion there.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Tom,

Happy New Year. When reading your review on Wildfire, it reads almost like Mon Ami Gabi, another Lettuce restaurant.

I have a business lunch meeting in Tysons and with so many steakhouses (The Palm, Morton's, Ruths Chris, Capital Grille, Flemings, and Shula Steakhouse), which one would you choose for an excellent steak?

Tom Sietsema: I've had the best luck with CG here in the city, so I'd be inclined to patronize its suburban branch.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite of Wildfire.

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Tosca Ristorante - WOW: Right before Christmas, we had a FABULOUS meal there. Creamiest risotto, lightest gnocchi, Dover sole fileted table-side. WOW! That's all I can say. The service was impeccable. The food, fantastic. We definitely PAID for what we got, but it was money very well spent. A positive comment for the new year.

Tom Sietsema: Some food lovers tell me they think Tosca tastes better than it ever has; I didn't upgrade the sleek Italian restaurant (to three stars) recently for marching in place.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Tosca.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom

I thought I'd give this another try as I had asked before and got not response - Do you know of a restaurant that serves sticky date pudding a wonderful Australian desert I encountered in Sydney last year.

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: Unfortunately, the best version, served at the Inn at Easton, is no longer available, since the restaurant served its last dinner there Dec. 31. Maybe a chatter knows of a source for that decadent dessert?

washingtonpost.com: The Dish on closing the Inn at Easton.

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Before the Inn: Heading to the Inn at Little Washington on Friday evening with an 8:30 p.m. reservation. It's hardly downtown . . . what do I do beforehand? Any place in that town for a drink, or is there are bar/lounge at the Inn, should we arrive early?

Tom Sietsema: The best bar around is right at the Inn: The Monkey Bar is as luxe as they come, the perfect place to ease into an evening with champagne and whatever luscious snack the kitchen might send out.

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Washington, D.C.: You don't resemble Jonathan Gold in way way, shape or form, do you?

Tom Sietsema: You are correct. We would not be mistaken for twins.

(Jonathan Gold is the brilliant critic at LA Weekly whose work garnered him a Pulitzer Prize last year.)

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Locanda: The diner didn't say anything about wanting a freebie -- he just wanted to have been told that the heat was out. To me, the restaurant's not having done so when he called at 6, or at the latest when he arrived at 8, is inexcusable.

Tom Sietsema: I agree with you: Whoever took the poster's call should have made it clear that the restaurant was operating without heat.

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Prince George's County: Hi Tom,

Do you ever get to Prince George's county? We do have restaurants here that are worthy of review. Great Thai, excellent pizza, lovely cafes, fabulous seafood! Come see us!

Tom Sietsema: Give us the scoop on all these "great" Thai, pizza and other restaurants! With precious few exceptions, I come up short when I venture there.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom: I question whether you really need to go undercover when reviewing restaurants. First, it seems to give places that know you an unfair advantage. Second, why shouldn't a restaurant try to shine when you appear on the scene? That way, you can tell us how good the place can truly be so we can see if it measures up. Third, we hear you are a good looking guy, and your fanswould like to see more of you.

Tom Sietsema: As much as I try to dine under the radar, it's very difficult, given the number of years I've spent reporting on the restaurant scene, to be totally anonymous. But I still think it's important to reserve in a name other than my own and try to dine without being recognized. A million things can be altered to make the experience different for a known face.

That said, just because I'm recognized on occasion doesn't mean I get great service. I'd give you examples, but I don't want to effect the outcome of several in-the-works reviews.

Note to restaurants: You're not doing your businesses a favor when you switch out/switch in different servers, or servers you think I might like. Not only is it painfully obvious, but some of those servers aren't as good as you might believe them t be!

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Le Tire Bouchon NO MORE?: Horrors! Our favorite place to dine for our anniversary, Le Tire Bouchon on Fairfax, has been replaced by an Italian restaurant, Villa Mozart. You wrote not too long agao about the new Rue 123 at the former Bailiwick Inn, a stone's throw away from the former Le Tire Bouchon. Did the new restaurant contribute to the demise of Le Tire Bouchon?

Should we give Villa Mozart a try for our anniversary meal, or go with La Rue 123?

Tom Sietsema: I had a very nice dinner at Villa Mozart not long ago. It gets my vote for the moment.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite of Villa Mozart.

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Alexandria, Va.: (Resubmitting after a possible connection failure.)

Enjoyed today's review of Wildfire. But I have a cautionary tale.

Another couple joined my wife and I at Wildfire a couple of weeks ago. Three of four had a good... but not specteculary meal. When my wife alerted the server to her potentially fatal fish allergy, the server advised us that there is "very little on the menu that does not contain fish." Most dishes apparently arrive in pre-seasoned portions, with the seasoning containing worcestershire sauce (which contains anchovies.) Almost every dish is preseasoned and there is no assurance that worcestershire is not present. We asked about a "dry" steak, but that wasn't possible, as the meat is preseasoned. All salad dressings contain worcestershire. Pasta sauces contain some fish products.

I called this problem to the attention of the manager who responded that "that's the way it is" and made no effort to seek a solution. Both manager and server said the

policy is "to take allergies seriously" but no more so that us.

As I said, three of four patrons had decent meals. However, four of four will not return.

I did not intend this as a rant, just a warning to future patrons.

Tom Sietsema: A SUPERVISOR said "that's the way it is?" Which charm school did HE go to, I wonder? I can't imagine there weren't a few dishes your comrade couldn't try -- and what's with all the "pre-seasoning" at Wildfire?

Your rant raises more questions than we can address in our remaining time.

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Prince Georges county: Try Bangkock Golden for Thai, Margellina's or Regina's for pizza and Italian. My fav cafe burned down, but is being rebuilt, and of course, we should get several upscale restaurants after National Harbor opens.

Tom Sietsema: That's a start, thanks.

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Say no to Pasta Mia: I haven't been there recently, but a couple years ago when

I went a group of us (around 6, I think) stood in line for

about an hour and then were told that we could either sit

at two tables (for 4 and 2) or not sit down at all. When we

asked to speak to a manager about it, we were told the

same thing--sit where we tell you, or leave. Waiting

longer for a larger table was not an option, nor were they

willing to push the two available tables (which were

adjacent to each other) together.

The food was good (and there was tons of it), but

definitely not unique and not worth the wait or service .

We were also told as we sat down (at the two different

tables) that if we thinking of not leaving a tip, we should

just leave now. The waiter only got more surly and rude

from there.

Tom Sietsema: Ouch! Maybe all the negative field reports have been keeping me from Pasta Mia, which was reviewed by my predecessor.

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Anonymous: Hey Tom - Mark Kuller here. Proof has a wonderful sticky

toffee (date) pudding!!!

Tom Sietsema: To the rescue! I've had that dessert -- thanks for the memory jog, Mark -- and I've greatly enjoyed it.

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Incognito: Tom,

On the subject of you dining in disguise, I would love to

know when you have been recognized. I agree with you

that you're going to get the restaurant's "best" service (or

what they think is their best) and I think knowing that

they've put on a show for you would help the review.

Especially if you know specific things they've done.

If I know that they gave you two amuse bouches, but

everyone around you got some stale bread, for example,

I'll know what to expect on my visit.

Tom Sietsema: Just for the record: Extra treats and pampering can backfire on a restaurant. Trust me, if I get a big dollop of beluga (caviar) on my appetizer, I'm going to write about it -- and readers are going to expect the same thing. And if they don't get it, they're ging to let me know.

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DC ex London:"But I still think it's important to reserve in a name other than my own and try to dine without being recognized. A million things can be altered to make the experience different for a known face."

Oh Yes!!! Otherwise, you'd end up like that great white whale Michael Winner of the Sunday Times- who's reviews usually amount to a summation of who recognized him and if the host was adequately fawning.

Tom Sietsema: Most British food critics work differently than their American counterparts. (A lot of them announce themselves, for starters.)

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Northwest, D.C.: Pasta Mia - I'm not a huge fan of standing in line for my food, but in defense of Pasta Mia, the place is famous for its "Pasta Nazi" attitude.

To some people - ti's kind of the charm. I'm sorry your poster was put off by the owner's attitude, but honestly, that's his "thing."

It's kind of like going to Ben's Chilli Bowl and complaining that, "the decor needs a bit of updating..."

Tom Sietsema: Good point. But that kind of attitude only works when the food is worth the snarl, you know?

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Boston, Ma.: Arghh--I know you are typing on the fly, Tom--that's why I give you a pass on the affect/effect error. But stop the ridiculous proliferation of unnecessary (and incorrect) prepositions--waiters may be switched, but they are not switched in or out (things are not changed up, items are where they are not where they are at, etc). Phew. thanks for letting me rant.

Tom Sietsema: I realized my mistakes as I hit the send button. Thanks for giving me the chance to say I'm sorry. (But really, I'm typing fast and furiously here.)

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Washington, D.C.: I just wanted to let you know of the sad passing of "Pyramids" restaurant at Florida & 6th St NW. Unfortunately, Pyramids never really got the support needed from the neighborhood and the owners of the building wanted to raise the rent to an astronomical level. It is all very sad. It was my favorite neighborhood restaurant thanks to you, Tom.

Tom Sietsema: Oh no! The kitchen was making some of the best Moroccan food around! But Pyramids also had a make-shift quality that made me wonder if it could survive.

I drove by the other night and was surprised to see no lights on. Now I know why. Thanks for relaying the sad news.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Pyramids.

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boston, ma/Pasta Mia: Now that I have left Adams Morgan I will share with you the secret of Pasta Mia. I love the food there but would never wait an hour in line for it. We used to call them the pasta natzis (like the soup natzi in Seinfeld).

The restaurant opens at 6:30. On a weeknight get in line at 6:10-6:15. On a weekend at 6. Therefore you are waiting in line for 15-30 min but once it opens you will get seated in the first round.

Do not go with a group of more than 4 people.

Do not ask them to substitute anything.

Do not expect overly attentive service.

Do not go if you do not eat dairy - cheese comes with everything!

Do expect great homemade pasta in huge bowls that will last you at least another meal with leftovers!

Tom Sietsema: Bless you for spilling the beans. I can see it now: Masses of us huddled outside Pasta Mia at 6:10 on a weeknight!

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Crystal City, Va.: Just wanted to chime in on the cell phone thing. I cannot stand being assulted with someone's cell phone conversation espcially in a nice resturant. I wish resutrants would install cell phone blockers similar to what I have enountered at

hospital emergency room's waiting rooms where you are forced to take your cell phone outside to chat away. There are smoke free areas in resturants, how about cell phone free areas?

Tom Sietsema: I'm on the road a lot and have noticed more "quiet" zones springing up in airline lounges, among other public spaces. They're a great idea. Increasingly, restaurant menus tend to remind diners not to use cell phones in the dining room. I'd love to know if the verbiage actually works.

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Alexandria, Va.: for the vegan and for anyone else, Stone Soup Bistro in Shepherdstown, WVA is simply amazing. They use locally grown and organic whenever possible, and I have had two stunning meals there. I am a veggie and husband is a meat eater and we both were delighted. It is fun to combine with a trip to Harper's Ferry or that area of the world.

Stone Soup Bistro

112 West German Street

Shepherdstown, WV 25443

Phone: 304-876-8477

Tom Sietsema: Here you go, chatters. Food for thought in West Virginia.

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Just Curious: Good morning, Tom. To what extent do you use disguises when sampling restaurants? Wigs? Hair Dye? Lifts in your shoes?

How often are you still recognized by restaurant staff, and do you think it makes a difference in what is served to you, and in what manner/

Tom Sietsema: Let me put it this way: Barbara Bush and I wear the same dress size.

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Washington, D.C.: Where do you recommend that I take my 80 year old mother for a special lunch in NYC, in the theatre district?

Thanks very much.

Tom Sietsema: While I have yet to personally taste-test the place, Insieme, an Italian restaurant (from the people who brought us Hearth in New York), has gotten good press from the critics there.

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Woodley Park, D.C.: It looks like restaurant week is coming up again. While I liked it at first, it strikes me as one of the worst weeks to go to restaurants. It's done its job of filling seats--making reservations difficult to get. But every time I've gone out during the week, the "special" menu always seems a bit thin.

I guess restaurants must love it, though. Or do they? What's your take?

Tom Sietsema: Restaurants love it because they fill seats at a time that is traditionally slow for them. On the flip side, Restaurant Week also brings in hordes of people who are new or unfamilar to the dining out scene. Honestly, I think it's a mixed blassing for the industry.

And on that inconclusive note, I bid you farewell for today. Please come again next Wednesday, same time, same forum.

Ciao!

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