A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.

The transcript follows.

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Joe: Welcome to today's chat. What's on your mind, in your pantry, on your shopping list? Did Jackie Spinner's feature about the cooking-solo class have you dreaming of a life without recipes, just "a dash of this" techniques? Did Judith Jones' fabulous first installment of our new Cooking for One feature give you some strategies that will help pull you out of that rut?

Did David Hagedorn's always-entertaining Chef on Call column fill your head with sausage-making fantasies?

To help answer any and all questions, we welcome the venerable Judith Jones to the chat today; she's surely the most famous cookbook editor in the world, and we're thrilled that she weighed in with the first take on this subject, which has to be one of the most frequent issues we're asked about.

For our favorite two posts, we have the following giveaway books: In a nod to Judith's most famous discovery, we have "Backstage with Julia: My Years with Julia Child" by Nancy Verde Barr; and as a follow-up to last week's healthy recipes, we have the paperback version of Mireille Guiliano's "French Women Don't Get Fat."

Let's chat!

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Oatmeal Addiction: Hi, Free Rangers!

Just wanted to thank you for the last week's low-fat meals. Only one recipe really fit into my Weight Watchers plan, which was the Peanut-Butter Banana Oatmeal (4 WW points for breakfast, which is fine with me). I made it over the weekend and shared it with my family, who polished it off. We all really liked it - I had to make 2 batches. Since then, my 15-year old son has asked me to show him how to make it as he likes it for a nightly snack (and he even replaced the serving he had stolen out from under me that I had saved for my breakfast the next day.)

Tnanks again for a great recipe!

Joe: So glad you liked it! I thought this oatmeal was pretty tasty, too. My problem -- and I'm intimately familiar with the WW approach, having used it successfully in the past (and am in need of dedicating myself with renewed vigor) -- is that I can never eat a normal person's serving. It's the same problem I have with cereal. OK, with a lot of things. My "cup" runneth over, big time.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi -- posting early in case I forget. I made the blueberry coffee cake from last week's Food section, but even though I kept it in the oven about 7 minutes longer than specified, the dough was still a little gummy. Granted, my oven might have been running cooler than it should, but is the coffee cake supposed to be that moist?

Thanks

Joe: This is a very moist cake, indeed -- but there is one strategy we ran as a tip: Did you see that? If you toss the blueberries in a little flour, then shake off the excess, they won't sink to the bottom of the batter during baking, and they won't add to the gumminess. Keep in mind, your standards for fabulosity might need to be relaxed just a TAD because of the healthy aspects of this coffee cake...

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Annapolis, Md.: Thank you for printing the Good Housekeeping Popover recipe a few weeks ago. I have two special popover pans (they look like 6 upside-down pilgrim hats in a wire frame). They came with a recipe that gave me very inconsistent results-sometimes big popvers, sometime doughy hockey pucks. I have made the Good Housekeeping recipe twice using my pans. I doubled recipe and filled all twelve cups. The first time I made them I only had skim milk and that worked fine. Thanks again.

Joe: There's a reason that this recipe is the magazine's most requested. Glad they worked well for you -- and that the skim milk worked, too: Good to know!

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puzzled: "He stressed two crucial elements: achieving the correct ratio of protein to fat (20 to 25 for sausage; 30 to 35 for the p?t? and terrine)..." I assume that means 20-25% fat content for sausage, as opposed to a ratio of 20 parts protein to 25 parts fat. Otherwise that seems like more than the usual math requirements of a recipe. Otherwise a great article - thanks for the charcuterie insight.

David Hagedorn: Well, Puzzled, you are correct. The words "fat content" were missing. We have a technical term for this in the biz: mistake. Thanks for pointing it out!

Joe: "Fat content" and "percent," that is...

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Silver Spring, Md.: the enchiladas today have 35 g of fat????!!! whoa. They should be labeled as a splurge or something.

Joe: Consider that nutritional analysis your label!

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Washington, D.C.: Thank you for adding the cooking for one column.

I tend to cook a lot of food for dinner and store the lefovers to eat later for lunch. But then I find I get really sick of eating the same thing for 3 days.

Judith Jones: That's why cooking for one seems to me very creative. I try to re-use foods so that they become a new and different dish. For instance, you can make a nice hash with any leftover meat or poultry and a nice hearty soup or a pasta. Lots of possibilities.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hello food gurus. I'm sure you've dealt with this before but I am young enough to know how to use the internet but too old to understand the advanced functions, like search. How long is cooked meat good? I made a cottage pie with lean ground beef on Sunday. It was out of the oven no more than 30 minutes when I put the leftovers away. I ended up freezing everything last night, but would they have been good tonight? Also, today is the sell by date on pork chops I bought Sunday. Do I have to cook them today or can I wait 'til tomorrow. Thanks.

David Hagedorn: Well Alexandria, there is really no definitive answer to your question, I'm afraid, other than cooked meat is good until it is bad. You often have no way of knowing exactly how fresh the product was when you bought it.

The quick rule here is, "When in doubt, throw it out." Does it pass the smell test? Our instincts are usually pretty good where these things are concerned.

Your pie would more than likely have been just fine the next day, maybe even the day after. I would not go beyond the second day. It's crucial to reheat to over 140 F for more than two minutes to guard against food-borne illness.

The sell date on the pork chops is something the store came up with.(Sometimes, they just extend the date if something has not sold!) The pig would have had a different opinion on when his expiration date was. The chops may be fine beyond the sell date; check for color (it should still have rosiness) and texture. There should be no hint of tackiness to the meat. You could brine the chops today, then rinse, pat dry, and wrap them well for use tomorrow, but again, if there is any doubt in your mind, don't take a chance.

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PB oatmeal: Love the idea of the PB oatmeal... but absolutely cannot stand bananas... the smell alone turns my stomach. Can I skip them or substitute something else? Apples?

Thanks

Joe: Of course! You'd get quite the different texture with apple, but the flavor combination I think would be nice.

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Washington, D.C.: Ok, so I have bone-in chicken breasts and a nice wild rice mix. I'd like to do a one-dish dinner. Is this the occasion to dig out the dusty can of cream of mushroom soup that lives in the back of my pantry? Or do you have a better idea for pulling these two things together?

Thanks!

Judith Jones: Why not make a nice cream sauce (plus extra to keep in the freezer) rather than use canned mushroom soup?

Joe: To that end, check out the sauce with this chicken recipe. It calls for boneless breasts, but you could certainly adapt it to fit -- and it would be perfect with the wild rice.

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Fairfax, Va.: Do you all have a fantastic (and preferably) fool-proof gnocchi recipe? I had some fantastic potato-ey goodness last night at an Eastern Market bar called Tapatinis, and now I want more.

Joe: How bout this sweet potato version, from Rock Creek?

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Durham, N.C.: Hi, Free Rangers! I have a "spirit" question for Jason, and possibly you, too. I am hosting a modified version of a Burns Supper this weekend. Do you have a recommendation for a good, not-too-expensive scotch I can serve? I'm usually a vodka drinker and am not up on scotch. Thanks a million!

Joe: You're in luck: Jason Wilson just HAPPENS to be working on Scotch for his next Spirits column, Feb. 6. He'll have a full report then, but here's what he thinks so far: "I had a nice Glenfiddich 15-year Solera Reserve the other night that would fit the bill--it usually goes for under $40, which is a bargain in the world of Scotch." Stay tuned!

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Washington, D.C.: I have a costco-load of ground beef in my freezer, but we're a little tired of chili, lasagne, etc. What's new and fun and wintery with ground beef? I recall my mother making something she called Shepherd's Pie when I was little, though it bore no resemblance to other Shepherd's Pies I've seen and tasted.

Bonus points for speed of preparation. Full time job plus new baby equals not much time for meal prep!

Thanks for your thoughts!

Judith Jones: You might want to mix the ground meat with some rice and make some delicious stuffed vegetables or use the meat in a pasta sauce.

As to what makes a good Shepherd's pie, it's important to keep the meat moist and tasty so add some leftover gravy (or improvise with stock) and mix in some aromatics like sauteed onion and/or garlic and some herbs.

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Chorizo, though not homemade: Bought some organic chorizo because it sounded really good.

Now I don't really know what to do with it. Something maybe on the healthy side, like mussels? Some sort of jamabalaya?

Help!

Jane Black: Tossing in a few chunks with with mussels is a great idea. (A little onion and garlic will round that out nicely.) You might also check out this recipe, a gumbo meets bouillabaisse. It's a bit of work to put together but worth it.

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Washington, D.C.: Where can I find a good/great local butcher shop?

Joe: Get thee to the Organic Butcher of McLean (6712 Old Dominion Dr., 703-790-8300).

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Washington, D.C.: Duck fat, duck fat, duck fat! So... what can I use it for besides making French fries? How long will it keep in the fridge? My mom always said bacon fat keeps forever.

Judith Jones: Duck fat will keep for months---all winter certainly. And I use it for sauteing meats, vegetables like onions and garlic, drizzling some over a breadcrumb topping. Just use it as you would butter or oil.It gives a slightly meaty or earthy flavor.

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Arlington, Va.: I saved the woody stalks from some asparagus I was prepping the other night and threw them in the freezer. How would I go about using them for an asparagus stock? Thanks for the tips!

Judith Jones: I would just simmer them with some onion in a light chicken stock and when they are tender put them through a food mill (that way you eliminate the strings).Mix the puree in with the liquid and you have a good soup. Maybe with a little cream on top? I don't think just plain asparagus stock would taste very good.

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Philadelphia, Penn.: To follow up on a theme from last week, I love the recipe finder! I had some kale lying around a few months ago and now I make the Asian Style Kale recipe at least once a week for a few days of lunches. It's really easy to work with, other greens work great. I've substituted when I didn't have fresh ingredients on hand, and with some soba or udon noodles it is a filling and well balanced meal! I was hesitant to go out and buy some sesame oil since it is rather pricey, but it is so delicious and I can't imagine lunch without this new staple. Just wanted to say thanks for the great work and super easy to use finder.

Joe: Your check is in the mail. ;-) Seriously, thanks for the compliment; we put a lot of work and resources into the Recipe Finder, so glad to know you've found it useful. We're hoping to add upgrades this year, including user comments! Other chatters, here's that Asian-Style Kale recipe our Philly cook is referring to.

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Annandale, Va.: Can't cook with out....: Garlic, as I have progressed as a cook, I have to have lots of hand. One question, when do I know mine is not fresh anymore? I had a head that was growing a thread on the end so I throw it away. I keep it on the counter, if that matters.

Thanks,

Judith Jones: I'd try not to buy too much garlic at a time. I usually toss mine out when it looks dessicated and the little green sprout has pushed through.

Joe: An additional thought: Aliza Green's "Field Guide to Produce" recommends storing garlic bulbs in the refrigerator, where they should last 3 weeks as long as you keep them nice and dry. I've also found a big difference by buying garlic from the farmers market when I can -- it lasts much longer.

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French Boule Follow-Up: Bonnie, I tried the Boule recipe that you sent me a few weeks ago - and have made it 5 or 6 times since. I love it! We know always have fresh bread at home.

Two questions for you: First, I remember that you said that the maximum amount of whole wheat flour to substitute is 2 cups. I tried to cups and it was a bit dense for my liking, so I no do 1 1/2 cups of whole wheat flour and 2 1/2 cups white flour. Twice, I've tried to use whole wheat pastry flour instead of the regular whole wheat so I can increase the whole grain proportions, but both times the bread hasn't risen as well. It's still edible, but not great - am I doing something wrong? Do I need to change proportions when using pastry flour?

My second question is whether you have any ideas on interesting variations on the bread. I'd like to use this basic recipe because it's easy and it's exactly the kind of bread I've been wanting to make. How would I make a cinnamon raisin loaf, for example? Or a rosemary olive oil? Or something else? When do I add the ingredients?

Thanks so much! - Rebecca

Jane Black: I spoke to Nancy and here are your answers:
No surprise the pastry flour doesn't work -- it doesn't have the sufficient amount of gluten for yeast breads. Gluten is what traps the carbon dioxide gas in the bread and makes it rise. So even though your yeast is fermenting, with pastry flour, there's nothing to trap it and keep it inside.

Making a cinnamon raisin loaf is more complicated than just dumping extra ingredients in. Most cinnamon-raisin loafs have a lot more sugar than a traditional whole wheat bread and if you add extra sugar early on, it will throw off the recipe. Nancy recommends using the cinnamon raisin recipe that ran with the story.

Your other option is to add a handful of raisins and a little cinnamon at the beginning and have an unsweetened raisin loaf. For olive oil and rosemary, you can add a little at the beginning. Just don't add anything that will spoil when it sits around for 15 hours.

Joe: That's Nancy Baggett, btw...

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Arlington, Va.: Re: the cooking class article today... I can see why some people, especially beginning cooks, wouldn't be comfortable with "make your own recipe" stuff. For a vinaigrette, I might be inclined to have each person in the class make it with a different kind of vinegar for starters, and let them taste each, rather than all the different ingredients are all up for grabs. Recipes aren't completely rigid, but it's a lot easier to get something right and then tweak it, rather than starting with the tweaks.

Jane Black: I agree. People want rules and they are very helpful for beginners. At the same time, I admire the teacher's desire to let creativity emerge and to show people that if they do make a mistake, it's either a) not the end of the world or b) a potential discovery. (Those kids salad dressing definitely went in the "A" category.)

What do you think? Have we become too dependent on recipes and rules and forgotten how to cook?

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Bethesda, Md.: Dearest Rangers, would you have any recommendations for ways to use green curry paste that don't require coconut milk? Can I use it in recipes that call for red chile paste, like the Spicy Ground Beef With Green Beans recipe in your archives? Thanks!

David Hagedorn: Good news, Bethesda! Those Thai green, yellow, and red curry pastes are excellent flavor boosters to use in anything you want to add some zip to. And they are interchangeable depending on the kind of flavor you prefer for a particular dish. The red stuff is fiery, so be careful how you use it.(I would not use it on a delicate fish, for example.) Thai basil leaves are a major component in the green paste. The yellow paste's most prevalent flavors are ginger and lemon grass. So use them as you would any herb; no need for coconut milk.

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Pork chops: Any quick and easy ideas for some center cut pork chops this evening? I am low on fresh herbs, but have most of the jarred stuff and some apples and some cous cous and green beans.

Judith Jones: I remember as a child a favorite family recipe: Pork chops covered in a bread stuffing and baked slowly in the oven for about an hour. The stuffing kept the meat moist and got crispy on top. We always served it with applesauce on the side.

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Washington, D.C.: Wow, what a treat to have Judith Jones in the house! I very much enjoyed the interview with you in The Post last year and I gave your book to a friend for Christmas. I am an avid, single cook. Appreciated your column in today's Food Section. What an inspiration!

No question here; just wanted to give the lady her props!

Judith Jones: Many thanks. And bon appetit!

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Avocado: I have an avocado that is just ripe enough to eat tonight. Am thinking guacamole, but wanted to mix in edamame to thin out the calorie density a bit. Are there any good egg dishes I could eat it with, rather than just dipping chips?

Judith Jones: An old family dish I remember was cutting the avocado in half and filling each hollow with a little shrimp or chicken salad. Might be worth playing with that.

Joe: If you add the edamame, you'll want to cook it really well and puree it in a food processor, otherwise I think that texture might not work very well. And you might need something to bind, like a smidge of sour cream. I love Judith's idea of the retro avocado half!
Of course, you could go all out and make the amazing Guacamole Eggs. Although I'm not sure that solves your calorie-density problem -- they're 81 cals for two, and who can eat just two?

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Long shot but....: does anyone know where I could find longaniza around here? It's a spanish/chilean sausage.

David Hagedorn: Jamie Stachowski says you may want to check out Euro Latino Grocery (fresh sardines every Thursday!); 2700 Pershing Drive in Arlington; 703-351-7700.

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Kensington, Md.: Hi - I'm looking for a local store that specializes in spices. Any suggestions?

Joe: Get thee to Penzeys, just a few miles away in Rockville (1048 Rockville Pike, 301-738-8707, www.penzeys.com).

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Albuquerque, NM: A suggestion for the question about using chorizo: "Mexican Everyday" by Rick Bayless has a number of quick and authentic recipes which call for chorizo. One of my favorites is for a sandwich mixing chorizo with black beans,and topping with avocados, cheese and salsa.

Joe: Oooh -- that sounds great. I love Rick Bayless.

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Washington, D.C.: For Judith Jones -- I heard you on the Splendid Table, after your memoir came out, and I loved the interview! I particularly liked how you talked about having the cook him or herself write the book, to get the true flavor (no pun intended) through, rather than relying on a ghost writer. I am looking forward to reading your memoir -- I am currently 25 on the waiting list at the library (was originally 60-something).

I read the recent book by Julia Child's great-nephew which was based on her letters, I think, and which she was working with him on when she died. I thought it was terrific, and what a great, interesting life she had. Wondering whether you read it and if so, what you thought of it -- did it represent her as you remember her? Haven't read the Food Section yet today, but will turn to your Cooking for One segment right away!!! (sorry for the gushing...)

Judith Jones: Yes, I did read it---in fact, worked on the book with both Julia and later Alex Prudhomme after Julia died. I think it captures her voice splendidly.

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Fairfax, Va.: My husband and I have lost a combined total of 100 pounds but now the challenge has been keeping it off. Part of it is definitely boredom with the same old foods. Do you have any quick and creative ideas for things like ground turkey, chicken breasts, and those sorts of basics? Or even a new cookbook or website for us to work with? I just can't eat the same things anymore and the pizza man is looking mighty easy and appealing.

Joe: Congratulations, you Big Losers! That's phenomenal. As someone who comes from a family where most all of us struggle with our weight, I can appreciate this challenge.

Let us be your resource! Are you members of our Health section colleague Sally Squires' Lean Plate Club? You must get on that train, if you're not already. Sally is always coming up with good strategies, tips, and recipes, and she focuses on the positive, which I think really makes the difference when you're trying to lose weight or keep it off. If you get discouraged, it's so easy to take solace at the refrigerator door (or by speed-dialing Dominos, as you say).

Here are a few specific things from our Recipe Finder (which has a "healthy" button that lets you search that way) that I hope inspire you.

Do you have a slow cooker? Try these Mexican Turkey Thighs.

How bout Chicken With Ginger Juice Glaze?

Barley Risotto With Mushrooms?

Cabbage Shepherd's Pie?

I could go on and on. Try some out, and tell us what you think -- and keep up the great work!

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question for Ms. Jones: I like buying a single-serving piece of fresh salmon, but find myself grilling it the same way every time. Any suggestions for something more creative?

Judith Jones: There's a cookbook recently published called SPARKS IN THE KITCHEN by Katy Sparks that has recipes for salmon 4 different ways---alL good. And Julia and Jacques did a wonderful salmon dish with thin sliced potatoes covering the top (in JULIA AND JACQUES COOKING AT HOME.

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Arlington, Va. S: Submitting early - meetings...

Anyhow, I'm not sure what to make of the cooking single articles. I'm a 38 year old guy and I've lived alone for many years and not only like cooking for just me (though I do sometimes have guests) but I like leftovers as well.

Perhaps it's all in what you choose to make. I make a lot of soups. I make pots of beans to used in soups, side dishes, etc. Casseroles. All are not hurt by a couple of days of fridge time, and some are helped. Most freeze well. They microwave easily at the office. The monotony isn't a problem if you cook a couple of times and alternate the main dishes and sides.

Jane Black: Absolutely right. How you serve it can change a dish entirely. And the freezer is your friend. It doesn't seem monotonous to have carrot ginger soup again, if you haven't eaten it in a week. My problem is I always forget what I've got in the freezer. I'm thinking of getting one of those label makers.

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Washington, D.C.: I have about 2 quarts of tomato juice leftover from making bloody marys this weekend. Aside from making more bloody marys, can you suggest some main dishes or side dishes that would help me use it up?

Thanks!

Jane Black: Usually, I'd say soup: gazpacho with shrimp or a fresh tomato and basil served cold. But it's hard to recommend that in January because even with the tomato juice you need good, fresh tomatoes. I once saw a recipe that used one part tomato juice to two parts water to make polenta, then served it with roasted vegetables but I've never done it myself. Might be interesting to try. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with a few more bloody marys.

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New York, N.Y.: I have found, along with Judith Jones, that widowhood stimulates the comforting act of cooking for oneself. I recommend purchasing smaller versions of one's pots and pans so that one doesn't face the skillet that was used for both of you, the casserole dish for two, and so on..Particularly useful are Oxo's small salad spinner, and Le Creuset's petite casseroles. But keep the skillet and the things that were 'ours"..it's all about adapting.

Judith Jones: I do agree with you. It's important to have small sized utensils, Joni Mitchell sang after a separation "The bed's too big, the frying pan's too wide."

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Sesame Oil?: Silly question, perhaps. I made an asparagus and yellow squash frittata last night that called for first sauteeing the squash with scallions in sesame oil. When all was said and done, I wasn't pleased with the taste of the frittata at all. I used "toasted sesame oil" instead of normal sesame oil. Do they tast substantially different? I'm wondering if that was the problem.

Leigh: The difference in flavor between regular and toasted sesame oil is substantial. You'll probably associate the flavor of toasted sesame oil with Asian foods. I can see how that would have tasted off with a squash frittata. The regular oil will be practically flavorless and lighter in color.

David Hagedorn: They do taste different; cold-pressed sesame oil is much milder and light in color, as it is made from raw seeds.Toasted sesame oil is what is usually associated with Asian cooking; it has a dark color, a very strong flavor, and goes rancid fairly easily. (I keep mine in the refrigerator.) A little of the toasted oil goes a LONG way, as you have apparently discovered. It should be used as a flavor enhancement rather than a cooking oil.

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WW Oatmeal Addict Again: WW portions? Tell me about it. It took everything I had not to dig into the pot with a spoon. I stood there and looked at it in the bowl and sighed. My leader tells me that's how you know it's a real portion. I take my measured serving and let the rest of the family go at it.

But, I guess that's the point (hah - I kill me...) of it all, right?

Joe: Yes it is! I live alone, so my strategy is to measure out my portion and IMMEDIATELY PUT THE REST AWAY AND BACK IN THE FRIDGE, COVERED. Sometimes covered twice!

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Washington D.C. : It's an honor to have Mrs. Jones at this chat. Considering that she has edited some of the most important cookbooks of the 20th century, I was wondering what she thought of the 21st century's crop, meaning all the books by food tv stars and very few, in my opinion, by any really new, creative voices.

Judith Jones: I agree completely. Everyone is trying to make cooking an entertainment instead of offering good instructive recipes that enable the home cook. I do think Lidia Bastianich is one of the best today.

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Naturally Raised Meats: Hi, I thought you might be interested to know that the government is seeking public comments on the definition of "naturally raised". Briefly, they define it as animals raised without hormones, antibiotics, or fed mammalian or avian by-products. Producers are still allowed to keep livestock in pens/cages, dock tails (pigs) and cut beaks (poultry). Comments are due January 28.

Jane Black: If this is something important to you, you should definitely write in. To do so, you can submit them at http://www.regulations.gov. Written comments should be mailed to: Naturally Raised Marketing Claim, Room 2607¿S, AMS, USDA, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW., Washington, DC 20250¿0254; or faxed to (202) 720¿1112. All comments should reference docket number LS-07-16. Copies of the notice are available through the above physical address or by accessing the Web site at http://www.ams.usda.gov/lsg/stand/naturalclaim.htm.

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Philadelphia, Penn.: So I made duck for the first time this week. Here's my question: does it smell different from chicken? When I took it out of the package (vacuum sealed, refrigerated, from Reading Terminal Market) it had an unusual smell -- not bad, just unusual, a little musky? -- and that continued for the first hour or so of cooking. Since I've never made duck before, I have no idea if this is normal. Haven't eaten it yet because plans changed, so now the finished duck ragu is in the freezer.

David Hagedorn: When in doubt, throw it out! You answered your own question when you said, "It had an unusual smell." Trust your instincts; fresh duck should not smell musky.

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Judith Jones fan: I am in the middle of reading Julia Child's memoir of living in Paris after just having finished Judith Jones' memoir and -- two weeks ago -- Julie and Julia! I got them because my husband bought me a copy of the LL Bean New England Cooking book 20 years ago and we still like so many of the recipes! I just wanted to say how much I admire your work.

Judith Jones: Thank you.

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Alexandria, Va.: I want to learn how to cook- I mean really cook, not just follow recipes. I can never get any recipes from my mother, who is an excellent cook, because she says she cooks off the top of her head. Also, recipes don't always turn out the same each time, as ingredient quality and spice potency differ each time, thus making "cooking to taste" all the more important.

Jane Black: I'm loathe to talk about how to learn to cook with Judith here but one way to become confident is to start with a recipe and then try to cook the same recipe off the top of your head. (Clearly this works better for cooking than baking, which is more scientific.)

Another way is to take a recipe you know well and, if you don't have all it calls for, substitute what you do have and see how it turns out. No lemon? Leave it out and add a little vinegar to the sauce for acid. Just see what happens. I recently made a soup using everything in my fridge and it was terrific. I based it on an Indian carrot soup. I had the carrots and coconut milk but I used shallot instead of onions, garam masala instead of curry powder, and added lime at the end. Fabulous.

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Falls Church, Va.: I've been cooking for myself since my parents threw me out of the house some 30 years ago. (In an episode of The Simpsons once, Marge said of her spinster sisters that one had chosen a life of celibacy while the other had celibacy thrust upon her. I would say I've had a life of cooking for one thrust upon me. But I digress...) Anyway, over the years my approach to this has changed. At first, I went through a phase of adapting recipes down to where they would serve one. Sometimes this can be done, other times it's impossible. (You can't subdivide a single egg.) Then, I had a phase of cooking big batches of something, subdividing and freezing portions for reheating. (In other words, leftovers - but leftovers that when frozen come out as good as the original dish, like stews, chilis and such.) I still do both of those things at times, but lately after taking s series of courses at L'Academie de Cuisine from a teacher who is a former chef, I have started operating my kitchen as if it was a restaurant kitchen with one nightly cover. By this I mean I create mise en place ahead of time and save it in a form that will allow me to assemble a meal quickly on a weekday evening by just doing the a la minute bits of the preparation. So oftentimes my weekend cooking jags will be strictly creation and storage of building blocks for many dishes rather than preparation of any single dish. I'm greatly aided in storage and preservation of my mise by the FoodSaver vacuum packaging system. Did you know you can take a Swiss meringue, portion it out into vacuum-packed bags, freeze them and later thaw individual bags for reconstitution in your KitchenAid mixer with the whip attachment? I do!

So anyway, the combination of these three approaches gets me by on most nights, and when it doesn't I get carryout...

Jane Black: Wow. All good tricks. And the lesson here...cooking for one (or many) takes time and, more important, organization. Part of the problem is that we expect to whip out restaurant quality dinners in no time at all. Get into good habits and cooking can be easy.

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Falls Church, Va.: I frequently cook for "just me" and, as Ms. Jones mentions, hate to waste the big bunches of fresh herbs that one is obliged to buy at the supermarket.

Do you know anything about those plastic squeeze tubes of herbs? They seem to be minced fresh herbs that have been mixed with oil. They're refrigerated. Would those be better than using dried herbs, do you think? Has anyone tried them?

Judith Jones: I haven't tried them but you have whetted my curiosity so I'll try them and let you know.

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Arlington, Va.: To Ms. Jones: If you could have only one cookbook, what would it be?

Judith Jones: It would be MASTERING THE ART OF FRENCH COOKING VOL ONE. That's where I really learned to cook.

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Butcher: Go to My Butcher & More, 1334 Defense Hwy, Gambrills, MD - (410) 451-3296. see their website at mybutcherandmore.com. Awesome selection, aged beef, you name it, they have it. They also supply to many stores in the annapolis area.

Joe: Thanks!

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Bowie, Md. Homemade Caramel for V-Day: Happy Wednesday to you all! Very interested in making caramel but need a 8-9 quart pot. There are options galore but I don't know what is best. Any suggestions? Would prefer something moderately priced but will spend more if the investment is really needed for candy making.

Greatly enjoy your chats. Thanks.

Joe: We put this question to Bruce Weinstein, who with Mark Scarbrough is writing a piece on candymaking for our Feb. 6 issue. (Bruce is also author of "The Ultimate Candy Book.) Here's what he says:

"First of all, an 8 - 9 qt pot? How much caramel are you making? I like to use a tall-sided sauce pan because as the mixture boils, it will roil up in the pan and the taller the better so it won't spill over the lip onto the stove. A wider pan isn't necessarily better as you have more surface area, so the mixture will cook faster and evaporate faster then it's supposed to.
"I like heavy duty stainless, cast iron, or enamel over cast iron. If you want to splurge on copper, that's fine too, but make sure it's a heavy gauge. For my money, I'd rather have heavy gauge steel than thin copper for even heat distribution and heat retention.
"If you don't have any heavy pots, it's a good investment anyway, so I recommend starting with one that you can use for candy making, too. Not a dutch oven, but something smaller, 4 or 5 quarts, and not too wide, remember, taller is better."

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Joe: Our tops are golden brown, our centers have set, and we spring back to the touch -- we're done!

Thanks for all the great questions today, everyone; hope we gave you some helpful direction. And thanks to Judith Jones and David Hagedorn for joining us today. Remember, if you have ideas about topics for Cooking for One -- or for Chef on Call -- please email them to us with those subject lines, to food@washpost.com.

Speaking of emailing us, could the chatter who started a post with "Duck fat, duck fat, duck fat" (try typing that three times fast, without getting obscene!) also get in touch? You're the winner of "Backstage with Julia" by Nancy Verde Barr, because we figure anyone who loves duck fat that much MUST be a Julia fan. Our other giveaway book, "French Women Don't Get Fat," goes to the husband/wife team who lost 100 pounds. Hopefully this paperback edition, with new recipes, will help inspire you to keep at it. Just send your mailing information to food@washpost.com, and we'll get it out to you.

Until next week, happy cooking, eating, and reading...

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