Free Range on Food

A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.

The transcript follows.

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Joe: Welcome to the first day of summer! Or at least, that's what it feels like, doesn't it? If I had a grill (sniff) or outdoor space (double sniff) I'd be firing it up right about now. No, I wouldn't -- I'd be chatting! But I'd want to, anyway.

What do you dream of skipping out of work and cooking right about now? Planning a little hop, skip and jump up to the Eden Center to experience banh mi heaven? Planning to pick through some lentils? Want to temper some chocolate, cut out some nougatine hearts? Did you remember to pack your reusable shopping bags so you can answer "Neither" when asked the paper-or-plastic question at the store?

For all these issues and so many more, we're here to help. Joining us today are In Season columnist Stephanie Sedgwick and candy men Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough.

To entice you, we have some goodies for our favorite posts: A sample of Chocolate for the Vine, a box of chocolates suitable for pairing with wine; the book "Eat More Chocolate, Lose Weight Anyway" by Anne Isham; and, for those Scotch lovers who might take issue with Jason Wilson's Spirits column today, some fairly hilarious little coasters with Scotch-related quotes. (My favorite: "Always carry a large flagon of whisky in case of snakebite, and furthermore always carry a small snake." -- W.C. Fields.)

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Hungry in McPherson: Those Vietnamese sandwiches look great but I'm never in the Eden Center area. Is there anywhere in downtown DC to get the sandwiches?

Walter: I don't know of any shop or street vendor in the District that sells banh mi sandwiches. The Eden Center is only eight miles from Washington and well worth the trip. The management of Eden tells us two new banh mi shops will open in the weeks ahead.

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Rockville, Md.: Is there anyplace in Montgomery County that has a good banh mi? After today's article I'm anxious to try one.

Walter: The national chain, Ba Le, has a location in Rockville at 842 Rockville Pike; 301-294-7808. I didn't visit that store for this banh mi story. But if it is anything like their shop in Falls Church I would not bother. It was the worst sandwich I tried.

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Bristow, Va.: Thanks for the great articles this week Rangers! The Vietnamese sandwich had me thinking, Ive been wanting to learn how to make pho! Not necessarily vegetarian (I know that was mentioned last week).. Im sure the costs of making it outweighs just buying a bowl at a favorite restaurant, but im just curious and would like to try it out.. Thanks again!

Bonnie: Ah, that vegetarian pho recipe is still (allegedly) coming to us!

In the meantime, these 2 are both really good, and ran a few years back. We need to get them into the Recipe Finder database, pronto!

Pho Bo (Vietnamese Beef and Noodle Soup)

8 servings

Pho, food of street vendors and home cooks, is not subject to any single formula. Recipes can be closely guarded family secrets. This one suits me, but feel free to adjust it to your taste.

The multifaceted presentation of pho makes it great for entertaining. The preferred method of eating pho is to use chopsticks in one hand, spoon in the other. If desired, dab chili and hoisin sauce on the noodles and meat as they make your way to your mouth. Slurp as necessary.

For a beefier-tasting broth, add more beef or bones. You can also do what some Vietnamese cooks do: Add monosodium glutamate, or MSG. A key component of pho found in Vietnamese kitchens and restaurants, MSG gives a vibrant, savory lift to the flavor. If using MSG, add 11/2 teaspoons at the same time you add the fish sauce. MSG is available on most supermarket shelves as Accent or in small bags at Asian groceries (see box at top right).

For easy retrieval from the broth, the spices can be tied in cheesecloth or tucked inside a tea ball infuser. You may check your local Vietnamese grocery for a spice sachet made specifically for pho that contains spices already toasted and ground into powder.

For the broth:

4 pounds beef soup bones (preferably shin and knuckle bones, with some meat on them)

8 ounces beef tendon (optional)

2-pound piece of beef brisket or 4 pounds beef shank, beef back ribs or oxtails

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste

4-inch piece ginger root (about 4 ounces), unpeeled, thickly sliced

2 medium yellow onions, peeled and quartered

1 package pho spice mixture OR

6 whole star anise, 3 sticks cinnamon, 1 tablespoon cardamom pods, 1 tablespoon black peppercorns and 8 whole cloves

1 small piece rock sugar* (may substitute 2 teaspoons palm sugar or light brown sugar)

2 tablespoons fish sauce (nuoc mam)

For the assembled pho:

1 pound (16 ounces) rice noodles

2 pounds raw beef (such as top round, flank steak, chuck, brisket) OR reserved brisket from the broth

Cooked tendon (optional; reserved from broth)

1 medium yellow onion, peeled

1 bunch scallions (green parts only), thinly sliced on a diagonal

About 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves

Plate of Thai basil sprigs

Plate of fresh bean sprouts

Plate of sliced green chili peppers (jalapeno or serrano)

Red chili sauce (such as Tuong Ot Sriracha)

Hoisin sauce

For the broth: Place beef bones in a large, heavy pot or stock pot. Add enough water to cover and bring to a boil. Cook for 3 or 4 minutes; a bubbly gray scum should form on top of the liquid. Drain the water, rinse the bones in the kitchen sink and clean the pot. (This removes the loose protein that normally would collect on the surface of the broth as scum.)

Return the bones to the pot, along with the tendon, if using, and brisket. Add 4 quarts (16 cups) of water and salt and bring almost to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover partially and simmer actively, skimming away any scum that forms. Simmer the stock for a total of 6 to 7 hours or overnight. If using brisket, remove it after it is cooked through, about 11/2 hours. Using a slotted spoon, remove the bones and tendon, if using; reserve the tendon.

Meanwhile, over a flame or in a dry skillet, char the ginger and onions lightly on all sides. (May instead roast the ginger and onions on a baking sheet in a 400-degree oven for 30 minutes.) After the broth has simmered for 6 or 7 hours, add the ginger and onion and continue to simmer until the broth is well flavored and amber-colored, about 1 more hour.

Strain the broth through cheesecloth or a fine sieve, pressing gently on the onion to remove any juices. Discard the solids. Measure broth and add water as needed to bring total amount of liquid to16 cups.

If using a mix of loose spices, toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat until aromatic to release their flavorful essential oils. Pour the strained broth into a pot and bring to a boil. Stir in the rock sugar and fish sauce. Add the spices, wrapped inside cheesecloth or tucked inside a tea infuser ball if desired, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or longer if a stronger star anise presence is desired. (Keep in mind that too much of the spice can be overpowering.) Remove and discard the spices. For maximum flavor, let the soup rest an hour or so before serving, or make it a day ahead so the flavors have a chance to meld. (May refrigerate for up to several days. Any fat in the broth will congeal on the surface and can be spooned away, but leave some for flavor.)

For the assembled pho: Preheat large, deep serving bowls in a 200-degree oven.

Bring the broth to a boil and let it boil vigorously.

If using dried rice noodles, place them in a large bowl or deep casserole and cover with boiling water. As the noodles wilt, press them into the hot water and set aside until softened completely. Drain and set aside.

You will need either raw beef or the brisket reserved from the broth. If using raw beef, freeze it for at least 10 minutes and up to 2 hours before slicing. (Partially frozen meat is easier to slice.) Slice the raw beef very thinly so that it will cook through in the broth. If using the brisket or tendon, thinly slice it.

Halve the onion then thinly slice it into moon-shaped wedges.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Place a portion of the cooked or fresh noodles in a large strainer and dip them into the boiling water until heated through, 5 to 10 seconds. Transfer the noodles to a heated bowl and repeat with the remaining noodles.

Place some sliced beef and onion into each bowl and ladle about 2 cups of hot broth over the noodles. If the beef is raw, it should cook through fairly quickly. Add some of the scallions, cilantro and basil. Repeat the process for each bowl. Pass the bowls to individual guests and allow them to add the remaining bean sprouts, chili peppers and condiments to taste.

Recipe tested by Renee Schettler; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com

Ingredients too variable for meaningful analysis.

Le Thiep's Pho Ga

(Chicken Pho)

8 servings

Though less widely consumed in its native Vietnam than its beefy cousin, chicken pho is a wonderfully light soup infused with the same ginger, cinnamon and star anise flavors. This pho has the added benefit of being on the table less than two hours after you start cooking.

If you wish to use MSG to accentuate the chicken flavor, add 1 1/2 teaspoons to the broth when you add the salt.

For the broth:

4-inch piece ginger root, unpeeled

14 medium shallots, peeled

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Two 3-pound chickens (preferably free-range for optimal flavor)

3 whole scallions

5 star anise

2 cinnamon sticks

1-ounce piece Chinese rock sugar (may substitute 2 teaspoons palm or light brown sugar)

For the assembled pho:

1 pound dried or fresh rice noodles

A bowl of cilantro leaves

A bowl of finely chopped scallions

Plate of Thai basil sprigs

Plate of fresh bean sprouts

Plate of thinly sliced green chili peppers (jalapeno)

Red chili sauce (such as Tuong Ot Sriracha)

A pepper mill

For the broth: In a 425-degree oven, roast the ginger and shallots until slightly softened and lightly browned, about 30 minutes for the shallots and about 45 minutes for the ginger.

Meanwhile, in a large pot bring 4 quarts (16 cups) of water to a boil. Take note of the water level. Season with salt.

Wash the chickens thoroughly under cold water, removing any packages of gizzards from the cavity and any excess fat from near the cavity opening. Gently lower the chickens into the boiling water. Cook at a light boil for 20 minutes, removing any scum that rises to the surface. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside for another 10 minutes to allow the chickens to poach in the hot liquid. Using a sturdy wooden spoon inserted into the cavity, lift the chickens one at a time, tip them to drain any liquid and transfer to a cutting board to cool.

Return the pot to medium-high heat and return the broth to a boil. Replenish any lost liquid that evaporated with boiling water. (There should be a rim of fat and scum where the original water line was.) Wrap the ginger and shallots in cheesecloth, if desired. Add the ginger, shallots and scallions to the broth, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 25 minutes.

In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the star anise and cinnamon until browned but not burned. If desired, wrap the cinnamon and star anise in cheesecloth or tuck inside a tea infuser. Add the spices and sugar to the broth and continue to cook for another 10 minutes. Strain the broth through cheesecloth or a fine sieve, pressing gently on the shallots to remove any juices. Discard the solids. Measure broth and add water as needed to bring total amount of liquid to 16 cups.

For maximum flavor, let the soup rest an hour or so before serving, or make it a day ahead so the flavors have a chance to meld. (May refrigerate for up to several days. Any fat in the broth will congeal on the surface and can be spooned away, but leave some for flavor and texture.)

Carve the chicken into pieces and use your fingers or a knife to remove the meat from the bones. Cut the meat into bite-size pieces, leaving skin intact if desired.

For the assembled pho: Preheat large, deep serving bowls in a 200-degree oven.

Bring the broth to a boil.

If using dried rice noodles, place them in a large bowl or deep casserole and cover with boiling water. As the noodles wilt, press them into the hot water until softened completely. Drain and set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Place a portion of the cooked or fresh noodles in a large strainer and dip them into the boiling water until heated through, 5 to 10 seconds. Transfer the noodles to a bowl and repeat with the remaining noodles.

Place some chicken, cilantro and scallions in each bowl. Ladle about 2 cups of hot broth over everything. Repeat the process for each bowl.

Pass the bowls to individual guests and allow them to add the remaining basil, bean sprouts, chili peppers and condiments to taste.

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Roslyn, Va.: Can't think for myself help!

I have two questions, first I have a bag of chili sause, it looks like ketchup, but I have no real clue what to do with it (I'm assuming I can make chili, but I don't like it). What could I do with it?

Secondly, although I try to follow a lot of adventures presented in this chat, I have not gone the middle eastern way, until yesterday. I attepted to make grill chicken marinated in yogurt, cumin, coriander, cayenne papper, garlic and salt. It was tangy, good, but not great; I know something was missing, but I'm no sure what. What else should I have added to my maridade?

And as always thanks for all your help...

Will you guys be my valetines?

Bonnie: Re the bag o'chili sauce, can you provide a little more info? is it a big bag -- maybe a base to make chili? or a small bag of the ethnic kind?

Re the marinade: You are so close. Add some lime or lemon juice, and some chopped onion. How long did you marinate (should be at least 1 hour for that mix, maybe)?

Re your valentines: Sure! So say we all.

Joe: Wait a second -- Bonnie, without even asking for a photo?

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Clifton, Va.: Sorry I will never shop at any grocery store that doesn't offer plastic. Screw the environment I need poop bags for the dogs. Paper just isnt the same and paper leads to the temptation to leave the bag at someone's doorstep light it on fire, ring the door bell and run away! Dont need another arrest!

lets ban bottled water first!

Jane Black: I feel obligated to suggest that you dog walkers subscribe to the paper and use that bag. Good for the enviroment, good for journalists! :)

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Thai finger food?: We're planning on a Thai-themed party but a lot of people are coming, so we can't have a sit-down dinner. I'm at a loss to think of finger foods that are easy to eat standing up. Normally, I'd just do cheese, crackers, dips, etc but I'm at a loss for similarly easy Thai food...any ideas for Thai food that's easy to make or buy and that people can eat with their fingers or at least a tiny plate and utensil?

Joe: I have several shrimpy ideas for you, plus a chicken AND a beef, all meant to be eaten with the hands, or easily adapted to such with the help of toothpicks or some other conveyance:

Coconut Shrimp Ravioli With Green Curry Sauce.

Shrimp in Lettuce Wraps.

Thai Shrimp Salad.

Lemon Grass Chicken and Snow Pea Summer Rolls.

Sesame Beef and Arugula Summer Rolls.

I could go on, but...

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Braddock Heights, Md.: My SO and I had a un-SuperBowl party this past weekend. We had a wings thrown-down - I picked a wing recipe & he picked a wing recipe and we each cooked our own and then sat down to eat and critique. His recipe called for "corn flour" to thicken the sauce and I just assumed it meant "corn meal" which he used to success but now I'm wondering if perhaps "corn flour" is actually "corn starch"? Just curious.

Bonnie: Is he British? Cornstarch is sometimes called corn flour across the herring pond. But I bet he used masa harina -- the finely ground corn flour used to make arepas.

Joe: Jane and I cooked for an anti-SB party this weekend, too! (Sorry to disappoint readers who may have wrongly assumed that my contribution to the guac-off meant that I'm a football fan...)
Our menu: Mahogany Short Ribs from the Post, simple polenta, a take on Suzanne Goin's persimmon, pomegranate and arugula salad (we subbed apples for the persimmons), my own ginger-glazed baby carrots and baby turnips, and a Bon Appetit recipe for pears in pine nut caramel with ricotta.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi there,

I'm looking for some kind of substantive discussion on cookware. It's time to replace my old non-stick set from college, and since it probably won't be cheap, I'd like to be as informed as possible.

I've tried buying a small piece from various makers to try, but even that isn't inexpensive, and now I have several little useless pans I don't like. (Like the $35 all-clad omelette pan that seems to have invisible velcro on the inside. I've never seen food stick so badly!)

So. Can we have that conversation here, with your and readers' recommendations and experiences? Better yet, could y'all do a long contrast-and-compare article on the subject?

Thanks!

Jane Black: Good question and one I'm in the middle of trying to solve for myself. I'm with you -- trying to avoid buying an expensive "set." So I've been rooting around discount stores like TJ Maxx, picking up Le Creuset here, All-Clad there but I feel I need a strategy.

So everyone, what are your favorite pots and pans? Any you definitely recommend splurging on or staying away from? Or does anyone have a set that's worth it?

Joe: Bonnie and I have started putting ideas together to do just such an article, so all input is welcome!

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Dupont, D.C.: Submitting early because I'll be in a meeting during the chat. My Valentine's Day may be riding on making really fantastic oatmeal chocolate chip cookies.... Can you help me out and give me the best recipe ever? I have faith in you!

Bonnie: Well, as long as there's no pressure...we have faith in supreme baker Lisa Yockelson. Here's her recipe from 2002, from an article that featured good cookie doughs for freezing:

Big and Buttery Oatmeal Cookies

(Makes about 36 cookies)

For oatmeal cookies to be properly buttery, not dry, the dough must have the correct balance of rolled oats to butter. And the dough must have sufficient amounts of chocolate chips and, in my opinion, coconut (you could add nuts instead).

2 1/4 cups bleached all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 large eggs

1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

3 cups quick-cooking (not instant) rolled oats

3 cups semisweet chocolate morsels

1 1/2 cups sweetened flaked coconut

To make the dough: In a large bowl or on a large sheet of wax paper, combine the flour, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the butter until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the brown sugar in 2 additions, beating for 1 minute after addition. Add the granulated sugar in 2 additions, beating for 1 minute after each addition. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, and beat until combined. Add the water and vanilla and beat until combined. Reduce the speed to low and mix in the flour mixture in 2 additions, beating just until incorporated after each addition. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the oats, chocolate chips and coconut.

To freeze the dough: Place 2 large sheets of plastic wrap or parchment paper on the work surface. To form a log, scrape half of the dough near 1 long edge of 1 sheet of plastic or paper and, beginning at that edge, roll the dough into a log. To form a rectangle, smooth half the dough into a flat shape in the center of the plastic or paper and wrap tightly. Then wrap the dough in food-safe freezer paper. Repeat with the remaining dough. Transfer the dough to resealable plastic bags, label the contents and freeze for up to 6 weeks.

To thaw the dough: Transfer the dough to the refrigerator to thaw overnight. (Do not thaw the dough at room temperature or bring the dough to room temperature prior to baking.)

To bake the dough: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Place 3-tablespoon mounds of dough onto the prepared cookie sheets, spacing the mounds about 31/2-inches apart. (The cookies will spread as they bake.) Do not flatten the cookies.

Bake the cookies in the preheated oven for at least 14 minutes and until set; the cookies should be golden at the edges and slightly paler at the center. Transfer the sheet to a wire rack to cool for 3 minutes, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.

Per serving: 218 calories, 3 gm protein, 32 gm carbohydrates, 10 gm fat, 28 mg cholesterol, 6 gm saturated fat, 78 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

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Newport News, Va.: Ever since I heard of CSAs a couple years back I've thought about joining one. I'm just not sure about the logistics! There seem to be a lot of CSAs that cater to the DC metropolitan area, but I've only seen a handful (four or five) down here in the Hampton Roads area. And while some of those look good, the pickup times & places are invariably during the work day (I work 8:30-5:30, same as most folks) and quite a drive from me - Norfolk, Virginia Beach or Toano. Plus, there are only 2 of us, so I'm looking at the farms which offer half-shares since I don't want to drown in daikon or be crushed by cabbages.

How do all of the confirmed CSA lovers make it work? Do you just look for a CSA whose pickup times/dates work with your schedule? I thought there were CSA programs that mailed you produce, but all the ones down here seem to just list pickup times. I love fruits and vegetables, and I think a CSA would force me to cook outside of my comfort zone and try new recipes - but what if I get five pounds of kale I can't use? I have thought about just buying a normal-sized share and freezing or drying the extra fruits or veggies, but while that is a great theory I doubt it'd work in practice. I'd just end up with a really big compost pile this year. I love the CSA idea, and I want it to work - any words of wisdom?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Stay tuned. I'm joining a CSA this year and will be looking into many of the issues you raise. Will the CSA help me cook outside my comfort zone? Will I be drowning in unwanted vegetables? Can I deal with kale? All this and more as I receive and cook with the contents of the magical mystery bag weekly. Follow my progress (or derailment!!!) in my column and hear even more as I join the chat weekly to report on my summer in the CSA.

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Bethesda Mom: Hi Cooking Gurus:

I hope you can help me out--I have a large green cabbage and no idea what to do with it! (A neighbor leaving on a trip gave it to me). I don't really want to make cole slaw. Any ideas for something not too complicated to make? Recipe books either have stuffed cabbage (too time-consuming) or soups with pork and/or beets, neither of which my family eats.

Joe: Absolutely! My favorite way to use cabbage was inspired by Stephanie Sedgwick's Warm Ginger, Apple and Cabbage Slaw. I tend to leave out the apples and throw in the ginger, mirin (Japanese rice wine) and vinegar without measuring -- and it's delish.

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Boston, Mass. by way of Alexandria, Va.: In the CSA article you mentioned one CSA that delivers to students in their dorms. Any chance you know of a similar program in the Boston area? Depending on the cost, this is definitely something I'd be interested it!

Jane Black: I don't know one for students only but there is Boston Organics, an online organic delivery service.

http://bostonorganics.com/

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Lothian, Md.: Ah, lentils. Love lentil soup and decided to make it last year. Since you don't have to soak them and they're so little, I cooked 3 bags -- WOW! They may be little and may not swell like others, but somehow they expand A LOT. I called my sister and told her to come over with containers so I could share all the excess. That's one I'll never forget! The soup, by the way, was very good. And Stephanie, go to the Ranchogordo.com website that Kim O'Donnell has recommended. They have wonderful heirloom beans for you to try. For someone who grew up with beans (a Southern mother -- pots of beans) and as a kid always asked "where's the meat," I have grown to love the very same beans as an adult (my Mother would be SO happy!).

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Thanks for the tip and yes, lentils really deliver-quantity that is!!!!!

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MtP, D.C.: Pretty please??

What exactly is whole wheat bread flour? Does this really exist?

And where could I get some if it does...

Bonnie: Whole-wheat bread flour is made from hard red winter wheat, as opposed to the all-purpose flour blend of hard and soft wheat.

Wade's Mill of Raphine, Va., sells whole-wheat bread flour in five- and 25-pound bags ($4 and $18, plus shipping; call 800-290-1400; see http://www.wadesmill.com). Theirs does contain the germ; store the flour in the freezer for best results. Bob's Red Mill and Hodgson Mill make whole-wheat bread mixes.

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Chocolate Recipe: Hi, I have been trying to find a recipe you spotlighted last week. I know, I should have printed it out as soon as I saw it. It was a chocolate dessert in ramekins. I think it only had 5 or so ingredients. Can you point me in the right direction. Thanks!

Joe: Can you hum a few more bars, please?

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red lentil dal: Hi free rangers, a quick question about the dal recipe today. Can I leave out the tomatoes? I'm not allowed to eat them for a few months (long story), but would love to try the recipe if it will still be ok without the toms. What say you experts?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'm just guessing here, but I think it will be okay. You may want to add a little bit of lemon juice just before serving to get an acid kick.

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Washington, D.C.: Before Christmas, there was a holiday gift guide in the Food Section (I think--it suddenly occurs to me that it could have been the Source) that included a book that was about food, but not a cookbook. I've searched the website, but can't find a mention of it. Does it ring any bells with you? I believe it was about the history of food, and was more theory than practical. Sorry this is so vague--hope maybe you can help. Thanks!

Joe: We had no such book in our roundup of 2007 cookbooks, but maybe you're thinking of this item in Book World, about the book "The President's Table"?

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Split pea soup: Hi Rangers,

I want to make Split pea soup, but hold that ham haddock. Can I just skip it, or ought I add something to enhance flavor of my meatless soup?

Joe: Maybe you mean ham hock? Otherwise you've discovered a variety of fish that I just HAVE to try! ;-)

You could certainly do without, but a pinch of pimenton (smoked paprika from Spain) or ground chipotle or the like would give you some meat-like depth without the meat.

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candy mold chocolates: Is there anything you can suggest to use chocolate-wise for candy molds other than those disk shaped melting chocolates they sell by the gagillion at Michael's? I want a richer taste and am looking to make fun treats for my co-workers.

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Those discs are not always the best quality chocolate. You can mold chocolates and make bark and other chocolate treats from any chocolate - in bar form or sold in bulk. If you like dark chocolate look for chocolate labeled 70% or thereabouts. - that means it has at least 70% cocoa solids. That should give you a rich taste. Just chop it up fine so it is about the size of the discs; that way it will melt evenly.

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Silver Spring, Md.: I shelled out more than $3 for a not-that-big jar of organic applesauce and looked at the ingredients: apples, water. Sounds easy enough to make - is it? Do you have a good recipe?

Oddly enough, I haven't liked applesauce since I was younger but got a craving two weeks ago, and now I want to make my own!

Joe: Oh, homemade applesauce is the best. Here's a recipe from a few years back that combines apples and pears, but you could certainly go all-apple...

Roasted Mashed Apple-Pear Sauce

Makes about 4 cups

The fruit comes out of the oven puffed slightly, steaming profusely and exuding juices sweet as nectar. The resulting mash comes together in a matter of seconds. The tartness of McIntosh apples melds seamlessly with the sweetness of Bosc pear.

Depending on the use of aromatics and arm power, the sauce may be made sweet or savory, smooth or chunky. All of the variations that follow are equally effortless and impressive. Purists may shudder, but swapping maple syrup for sugar quickly became my standard.

8 McIntosh apples, peeled, cored and quartered

4 almost ripe Bosc pears, peeled, cored and quartered

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

1/4 cup granulated sugar

Pinch salt

Place the oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a large roasting pan, toss the apples, pears, butter, sugar and salt together. Cover tightly with foil. Roast for 25 minutes, uncovering to stir the fruit once or twice. (If you forget to stir or just get lazy, the sauce will still be okay.)

Uncover the pan and roast for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the fruit feels quite tender when tested with a small, sharp knife.

Remove the pan from the oven and, using a potato masher, mash the fruit to the desired consistency.

The applesauce will keep in a covered jar in the refrigerator for several days.

Variations: Add the following ingredients before roasting:

1 tablespoon chopped ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice or cardamom

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, sage and/or thyme

Maple syrup or brown sugar instead of white sugar

Per 1/2-cup serving: 180 calories, 1 gm protein, 35 gm carbohydrates, 5 gm fat, 12 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 36 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber

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Washington, D.C.: My son's birthday party is coming up in 3 weeks and I've decided to go with a Mediterranean theme this year. I decided this weekend I needed to practice making home-made falafels as it was my first time. What a disaster! I let the oil get really hot and then I put 4 or 5 falafel balls in the pot. I gave it a good 7-8 minutes and then I checked and found that the browned "skin" came off, leaving the raw falafel underneath. Leaving in for longer, the entire falafel dissinegrated. The second half of the mix I had to put on an oil baking sheet and bake in the oven. It was OK, but not crisp. The directions said to let it sit in fridge for 4 hours prior to frying. The only thing I can think of that I did wrong was to leave the mix in the fridge for a few days instead as I had to much food already cooked. Could this have caused the disaster??

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: My 6-year old decided we had to make falafel for New Year's so I know just what you mean. We found it was hard to get the mix moist enough to hold together properly and that the key was to have the oil hot enough so the skin formed right away, protecting the shape. Some people roll the falafel in flour or breadcrumbs for an extra layer of insurance, but your description points another way. Sounds to me like your oil was way too hot and/or not deep enough. I have a trick which will date me! I use a Fry Daddy: the temperature's always perfect, the oil's always the right depth, all this from a pretty inexpensive and easy to store appliance.

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20002: Thank you for the wonderful article on the best banh mi!

I remember reading a similar feature on the best Cuban sandwiches somewhere a while back, but I've been unable to find it on the site. If it was indeed a WaPo article, could you provide a link?

Thanks!

Joe: We haven't done such a roundup, but maybe you're thinking of this 2006 piece by Tom Sietsema on places to get his favorite sandwiches, including the Cubano.

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Newport News (again): Ooh, and maybe your candy gurus can tell me what I'm doing wrong.

I have tried several times to make hard caramel (a cookbook of mine has instructions on making beautiful sculpted caramel "cages," cream caramel candies, etc). Per its recipe I boil the syrup until it starts to darken and then either put the pot into a pan of cool water, stir some (boiling) water into the syrup, or add cream. (Several different ways to handle it.) Each time, my carmel turns into a brick almost immediately and I am left candy-less, chipping at the pan for days.

What am I doing wrong? So frustrating!

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Making a caramel cage requires using only the burned sugar. You cannot get the caramel to solidify into strands if you add water or cream to it once it's a dark brown. Placing it in a larger pan of cold water will help stop the cooking and thicken it a bit so you can drizzle it onto your mold (whether that's an upturned bowl or other rounded and greased heat-safe object). But you must only dip in the cold water briefly. If you sit it in there and let it be, it will firm up too quickly and you won't be able to work with it as you have found out. After it starts to cool and thicken, use a fork to drizzle the burnt sugar over the mold. Once it's hard, pull it off and voila, a caramel cage.

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No Java Please: I have a recipe for Mocha Toffee brownies. The problem is neither my SO nor myself like coffee/mocha, preferring good, old-fashioned chocolate thank you very much. The recipe calls for 2 tsp espresso powder dissolved in 1/4 cup water. Any suggestions on what to use instead? Plain water I'm sure would work, but I'm afraid it'll be missing some oomph.

Thanks.

Joe: If you don't like the java, you have our permission to ditch that recipe altogether! How about Ultimate Turtle Brownies instead?

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Richmond, Va.: I remember seeing a great oatmeal cookie recipe in the

Post a while back and it featured a more salty taste. Can

you post the recipe again? I couldn't see it in the archive.

I'm making Valentine's cookies as well...

About the CSA's, I've had a subscription for over 10 years

(different places, different ones) and I have definitely been

pushed to cook new things. There are times when you

think that you cannot face another 'blank' (usually greens)

and when you are confronted with some type of veg

(usually greens) that you have no idea how to prepare or

even which parts to eat. BUT, with all the recipes available

online you can always find something to try, you can make

some soup and freeze it, and you really appreciate how far

away we are from eating our food in season. It's a great

learning experience. I also like the farm visits that most

have and my farm now also offers a cowshare (for milk)

and eggs. I think everyone should at least consider it.

Bonnie: Ah, that would be Leigh Lambert's Salted Oatmeal Cookies. It's in the database, honest.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Thanks for the encouragement. I'm approaching the CSA with cautious optimism. My local CSA sells out of shares very quickly so I'm thinking people learn to love it. We'll see if I'm one of them!!!!!!

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re; Pots: Not sure what type of cooking you like to do, but if you like to; braise, roast, make stocks, gumbos ect. Do yourself a favor and spend the money and buy a BIG Le Creuset pot. There are outlets in some states, where you an get them a lot cheaper.

Dont buy any of Mario Batali cookware, its all garbage.

Jane Black: Why don't you like the Batali pots? That risotto pan is a beauty...

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cookware source: Ebay is a great source for individual high-end pots and pans. I've bought a few all-clad pans and been very pleased.

In terms of picking out the cookware you want, don't hesitate to try out pots and pans with friends! I often cook with friends, so we have all tried various pots and pans at everyone's houses and it gives you a real sense of what will work for you! You need a serious non-stick for a few items (like eggs). If you have ever used a well-seasoned cast iron pan you will be inspired to get one yourself. And there is nothing like a Le Crueset dutch oven. That being said, I have friends who would never use my cast iron pan because it is too heavy for them, and some people love glass tops to see the food cooking, but I hate the idea of having to clean the glass. Nothing substitutes for a real test-drive.

Jane Black: Ebay is a good idea. What I want is one of those tiny Viking saucier pans so I'll take a look. Anyone else?

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Arlington, Va.: With regard to Jane's story about plastic bags, I completely related to the part about walking away from a farmers market with a canvas bag full of plastic bags, despite the best of intentions. One solution is to purchase a canvas shopping basket, many of which are collapsible. Haven't used mine at the farmers market yet but suspect it will be perfect. No more crushed produce, no need for all of the little baggies.

Jane Black: That's a great idea.
I've got a few more to make it easier at the supermarket. One Web site suggests packing a few plastic bags into an old empty pill container and carrying that in your purse/briefcase so you always have a plastic bag with you to re-use. Another suggestion came from a colleague who told me about a a reuseable bag, called chicobag, that collapses down into its own tiny pouch. For more information on reusable bags, check out www.reusablebags.com.

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Poop Bags: You are so right! Washington Post bags are the best poop bags ever! My neighbors all save them for me and I regularly mail a box full to my best friend who moved to Florida and doesn't have the luxury.

Joe: Anything to keep those subscriptions coming...

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Curry leaves: Hi Free Rangers!

I found fresh curry leaves recently and wanted to know your favorite ideas/recipes for using them. I think they're typically used in Indian recipes, but I'm wondering if other cuisines use them as well?

Bonnie: Indian and Asian are the main cuisines that use curry leaves -- I think the plant's indigenous to south Asia. They add a lemony flavor; why not experiment by adding them to any marinades that call for lemon or lime zest?

Here are 2 non-curry recipes, the first from an Israeli cook of Indian origin, and the second from "The Everything Indian Cookbook":

Fongelom(Cochin Vegetable Fritters)

Makes about 35 fritters

1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled, seeded and grated

1 medium potato (about 1/2 pound), peeled and grated

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup grated unsweetened coconut

1 fresh serrano chili pepper, seeded and minced

3 stems fresh curry leaves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 large egg

2 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Vegetable oil for frying

In a large bowl, combine the squash and potato. Add the onion, coconut, chili pepper, curry leaves or powder, salt and egg and mix to combine. Gradually fold in the flour and baking powder and continue mixing until fully incorporated.

Shape the mixture into balls about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Flatten each ball slightly to form a patty.

In a deep pan or pot, heat 2 inches of oil to 375 degrees. Using a slotted spoon, carefully slip some of the patties into the hot oil, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry, turning once, until golden, about 3 minutes on each side. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the patties to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining patties. Serve warm.

Per serving: 50 calories, 1 gm protein, 9 gm carbohydrates, 1 gm fat, 6 mg cholesterol, trace saturated fat, 117 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber


Tamarind Rice (Pulihora)

4 to 5 servings

The spiciness of this south Indian classic can be adjusted by mixing in more cooked rice and the tamarind chutney to taste. Curry leaves contribute a pungent lemon flavor, but if they're not available, it's better to omit them than substitute. (Curry powder is not a substitute.)

2 cups uncooked basmati rice

4 cups of water

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon lemon juice

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 fresh sprigs curry leaves

1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds

2 dried red chili peppers, broken into pieces

1/4 cup salted roasted peanuts

1/2 to 1 cup tamarind chutney

Rinse the rice with water at least 3 or 4 times, and drain. Set aside.

In a deep pan over high heat, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Add the drained rice and stir for about 30 seconds. Add the salt and lemon juice and return to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover the pan loosely and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until most of the water has evaporated and small craters form on the rice. Cover the pan tightly, reduce the heat to the lowest setting and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat and let the rice sit for 5 minutes. Fluff it with a fork and transfer half to a serving platter. Set aside.

In a medium skillet on medium-high heat, heat the vegetable oil. Add the curry leaves, if using, and mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds begin to sputter (be careful; they tend to pop out of the skillet), add the red chili pepper pieces and peanuts. Cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds. Add 1/2 cup chutney, or more to taste. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 5 minutes or until the mixture is heated.

Spoon the chutney mixture over the rice on the platter. Just before serving, toss the mixture to combine well. Taste for spiciness and add more rice or chutney as desired.


Per serving (based on 5): 269 calories, 5 g protein, 36 g carbohydrates, 12 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 564 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber

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chocolate for truffles: I recently took a stab at making chocolate truffles for the first time. I neglected to research on how to properly temper chocolate. How hard could it be? Well, I went through 5 bags of chocolate because I didn't realize water causes chocolate to seize and that white chocolate scorches real easily. I finally did get the hang of it, but now I have a ziplock bag full of seized chocolate in the freezer. Is there any way to salvage the chocolate for another use?

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Seized chocolate is certainly a pain. Unfortunately, once the chocolate has indeed broken into those icky threads and that liquid, you can save it--sometimes--by adding little bits of cream to the mixture as you stir it over barely simmering water. This will work if the humidity's right, the chocolate hasn't retained too much residual moisture, and the gods are smiling.

But once frozen? We suggest you put in a pan with milk and sugar for your usual chocolate pudding recipe--and make a rather grainier version of pudding. Same for pastry cream and hot cocoa. Even ice cream! No fine chocolate candies, but the extra fat in any of these will help return the chocolate to some sort of good state.

One final warning: don't bake with it.

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Roslyn, Va Again: Photo! I'm in my early 20s and cute (or at least that's what I'm told)....PLUS a huge fan!

Regarding the bag, its big, don't know the exact ounces, but big, it says it has garlic powder, pepper, etc.

I marinaded the chicken for about 4 hours.

Bonnie: There, editor Joe, are you happy?

Re the bagged sauce: I'm thinking it's the stuff I just Googled, which looks like it's a base for nachos, chili and such. Was it from a big-box store?

Re the chicken: Okay, that would be long enough to impart flavor.

Joe: Mere words can only go so far...

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RE Washington's Pots & Pans: Cast Iron all the way, baby!

If you want to go upscale, get Le Creuset. If you don't want to drop a huge sum on cookware, get the plain stuff (I like Lodge's pre-seasoned but you can get them unseasoned at Fisher's Hardware). Cast iron pans last forever. And while cleaning is different from normal pots & pans, it isn't any more difficult. Plus, cast-iron is sexy - what's more alluring than combining "cooking" with "blunt weapon"? Hang onto one of your cheap nonstick pans to fry eggs in, but well-seasoned cast iron will work for nearly everything else.

Plust, cast-iron is known for inspiring groupie-esque devotion among its followers....

Jane Black: Cast iron is great. But I'm with some of your friends; I like to have a lighter option. I just inherited an enormous cast-iron skillet and it's almost too heavy for me to lift!

Joe: I told her I'd be happy to take it off her hands any day... It's a beaut.

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CSA advice: I did a CSA for the past two years, summer only. The pickup was about a mile from my house, but not that convenient because I had to first take the metro home, walk the half mile home, get in my car, then fight traffic for a mile up Wisconsin Ave in Bethesda. Also, in the summer months, the produce does suffer on those really hot, humid days, when you can't pick it up until 7 pm or so.

The quality overall was very good, though. Also, I loved getting things I was unfamiliar with -- it definitely gets you out of your comfort zone (turnip greens, anyone? parsnips?) compared to just hitting the grocery store and buying what you know. That was one of the best things about the CSA.

I usually managed to finish pretty much everything, but occasionally ended up having to throw some stuff out, esp the stuff that doesn't keep well (mostly greens). You do have to plan, however, to finish up the produce in a week.

I think the only thing I ever got that I really won't eat was okra, which I just gave to okra-loving friends/family. Also, the quantity and variety was much more limited last summer, because of the drought (one of the risks you have to be aware of -- you benefit and suffer along with the farmer, in a sense).

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Hmm, I hadn't thought about the possibility of getting a bag full of okra. I'll start looking now for some okra-loving friends. That's one vegetable I can't learn to love.

Joe: Stephanie, I will be your okra-loving friend. Pickle it, baby!

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Washington: I have recently falled in love with soft Italian nougat with almonds. Is it very difficult to make.

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Nougat is one of our favorites too, and unfortunately it's also one of the hardest candies to make. Italian nougat, Torrone, can be either hard or soft, and that is simply a matter of how long the sugar syrup was cooked before being added to the beaten egg whites. The longer you cook sugar syrup the hotter it gets and the firmer the candy will be once it's cooled. one warning, you'll have to track down edible rice paper (try kitchenkrafts.com) and use that to line your 9 x 13 pan.

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Pine Plains, NY: After last week's Free Range, my husband brought home a book called Bento Boxes by Naomi Kijima. I've made a couple of very nice meals from it, but I have a few questions. Naomi doesn't include info on the philosophy of putting a bento box together. Do you have a link to your bento box article and to the recipes? I found the rice, and your technique worked perfectly. Also, Naomi also uses burdock root (gobo) a lot and also lotus root. Would any of our common veggies be good substitutes?

Joe: Here's a link to the bento article. As for substitutions, I'd have to look at the specific recipes you mention, but my first reaction is that nothing is quite like burdock, but for lotus root you might think about something like jicama. Your best bet, though, is to look for good recipes featuring other vegetables that you like and that are easy to get around here. The Japanese love their squashes and sweet potatoes, for instance, and those can be found at the farmers markets around here now.

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re: candy mold chocolates: But it is going to melt in their hands immediately if they don't temper the chocolate. Which is why I assume they sell the other stuff at places like Michaels.

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Chocolate melting has little to do with its tempering. Those disks--sometimes called "pastilles"--often have a lot of hydrogenated shortening or coconut fat in the mix, all of which keeps them from melting at room temperature. That said, they too will melt in your hands if given enough time. By and large, chocolate melts just below body temperature--about 92 to 96 degrees, depending on the amount of cocoa solids in the mix.

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storing flour: I store opened flour in the fridge or freezer, but I keep unopened packages in my pantry. Is this OK? The groceries store theirs on unrefrigerated shelves so I was thinking the pantry was fine.

Bonnie: Depends on the temp in the pantry. I'd pop those unopened bags in Lexan containers with tight lids, or at least in big Ziploc bags, just to be sure. I freeze flours, but don't refrigerate them.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Pots and pans...what a bane!

I recently got a smooth top stove--love it-- but by vintage Revereware (passed down from my parents) rocked and rolled horribly. So I needed to buy new pans. I could have gone to IKEA, and I've bought pans from them before, but all there stuff is made in China and the non-stick stuff lasts about 1-2 years before it begins flaking off.

But I made it more difficult for myself. I wanted to buy something American made. My internet searches took me to Farberware, which used to be made in PA, but has now relocated in California. Unfortunately, when the box came, it said "Made in Thailand."

Sigh.

Anyway, Farberware Millenium is designed for smooth tops, although it can be used successfully on any type of stove. The pots and pans are much sturdier than Revere and they feature glass tops--so you don't have to lift to peek! The non-stick pans are extremely smooth and I've made several things in them without any oil and they slide right out.

Jane Black: Cooking on a glass top stove can be a consideration when you are buying pots and pans. Good suggestion.

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RE: the oatmeal cookie recipe: Could I use old-fashioned instead of quick oats? I always have old fashioned on hand and never have quick oats around. Thanks!

Leigh: Certainly you could use old fashioned oats. Just as long as they are not steel cut. You want them to be rolled flat, that way they can absorb the moisture in the batter and make a chewy cookie.

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New England: California Pizza Kitchen (the soups and salads book) has a recipe for a vegetarian split pea and barley soup (Dakota Smashed Pea and Barley Soup).

It calls for onion, carrot, spices, barley, water/stock, and split peas. I put a few drops of liquid smoke in mine to give it more depth.

I had the "typical Swedish" lunch last fall in Stockholm: split pea soup, swedish pancakes with strawberries, and a shot of punch. I can recreate all of it except the punch, which seems to be impossible to find in the US.

Jane Black: I know it seems obvious but did you try Ikea? They have a lot of good Swedish staples there.

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Clifton, Va.: I ahve a mix of Calphanon, la Creuset(grill pan and dutch oven)and All Clad. All Clad is superior to Caphanon which I got about 10 years ago. Anodized coating is starting to gflake off. I have All Clad pans that older that are in great shape. Used bonus miles for the Calphanon.

Now a question how do the cooking shows keep the inside of their La Creuset dutch ovens so white? Do they use new dutch ovens every show? Doesnt matter if its PBS or the Food network the interior is verginal white and sparkling!

Joe: Your setup sounds suspiciously like mine. But I don't have difficulties keeping my Le Creuset insides white -- either a soaking or a scrubbing seems to do fine with that. It's the outside, particularly the bottom, that's a problem, with black scorch marks galore. But you know what? I think it looks better worn, anyhow. Shows you really cook.

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Pots & Pans: I've been very pleased with the Cuisinart cookware I've purchased in the past. Nice, heavy-gauge stainless steel and well constructed. I have a large soup pot, an 18-inch skillet and a 12-inch non-stick omelete pan. All have held up well over the years. Not nearly as pricey as All Clad.

Bonnie: I have some, too, and second that emotion. They clean up nicely, with a little Bar Keeper's Friend powdered cleanser.

Joe: Speaking of Bar Keeper's Friend, that's what I use on the Le Creuset! And my sink.

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re: falafel: Without using a fry daddy, how do I know when my oil is hot enough but not too hot? I thought that if you put in a sample piece and it browns too quickly, it's the oil is too hot. However, this didn't happen. Hmm.

I have to admit that the oil didn't totally completely cover the falafel, but after pouring half a bottle of a brand new bottle into the pot, I couldn't bear to waste anymore. We're still using the strained leftover oil for all of our other cooking, even pancakes!

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: A fry thermometer would do the trick, but I'd still go to the Fry Daddy. It only uses 1 quart of oil. Frankly, one quart of oil costs less then one falafel sandwich at the local Middle-Eastern place.

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Kensington, Md.: Re Madras Curry Powder. Loved the lentil soup recipe today. I was confused by the note for the Madras Curry Powder. It said it should be fresh. Does that mean, Madras Curry is not something that you pick up in the spice section of the store? How do you know if it is fresh?

Bonnie: Fresh, as in, not one of your 10-year-old spice tins. Recommendations are to purchase fresh (new) Madras curry powder if it's more than 6 months old.

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re: caramel: How do I get sugar to turn dark and creamy so I can pour it over popcorn? Caramel corn?

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: The best caramel corn is made by pouring a caramel mixture over popped corn and then baking it on baking sheet in a slow (275 degree) oven - tossing once in a while. here's our favorite recipe - -
10 cups freshly popped popcorn (made from about 5 tablespoons popcorn kernels)
1 1/2 cups unsalted roasted cashews
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1. Preheat oven to 250°F. Lightly butter a large baking sheet; spread popcorn and cashews on sheet. Keep warm in the oven.
2. Mix butter, brown sugar, corn syrup, and salt in a large saucepan; stir frequently until simmering and the sugar has dissolved. Clip a candy thermometer to the inside of the pan and continue cooking undisturbed until the temperature reaches 248°F (firm ball stage).
3. Remove from heat and stir in baking soda. The mixture will roil vigorously; continue stirring until smooth.
4. Butter two wooden spoons or rubber spatulas. Pour sugar mixture over the popcorn and cashews; toss well with the spoons.
5. Bake 45 minutes, tossing every 10 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet, then store in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Makes 12 cups.

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Thai Finger Food: I make Thai style eggrolls -- they are remarkably easy and everyone loves them, even my kids! I don't have a recipe but generally make a filling of the following give or take:

1 lb ground pork or turkey

1/2 c shredded cole slaw mix

1/2 cup shredded carrots

1/2 thinly sliced shitake mushrooms

1 clove garlic

1-2 T fish sauce

1-2 T Thai Chili sauce

2-3 T finely chopped cilantro

I mix it all up and fill eggroll wrappers cut in half with the mixture, sealing it well with water (as described on the wrapper). Then I fried them until golden.

Joe: Thanks!

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Fairfax, Va.: I'm an omnivore living with a vegetarian. We cook only vegetarian food at home. As a result, I have almost no knowledge of how to cook meat.

Roomie's out of town this weekend, and I'd like to make myself something non-veggie and somewhat decadent, both because it's tasty, and to practice my meat-cooking skills. Recommendations on something not-too-hard?

Jane Black: Two easy ways to practice with very different results are a simple steak and braised beef.

The first key to cooking a good steak is choosing good meat. After that, season with salt and pepper and put it in a very hot pan with a little bit of oil. When the meat is ready to be flipped it will "release," ie, not stick to the pan. (And it will have a nice color or "sear" on it.) Flip it over to brown the other side and, if it's a thick steak, finish it in a 350 degree oven. If it's thin, you can turn down the heat and finish it in the pan. It will feel different, depending on how well cooked it is. Soft and it will be very rare; totally firm, well done. (There are all kinds of web sites that describe the various feels so do a little research.)

As for braised beef, couldn't be easier. You cook it low and slow. As I think mentioned last week, I made our easy Mahogany Short Ribs for Superbowl Sunday. Amazing recipe and a good recipe for a meat-cooking newbie.

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Chocolate Lover: I love dark chocolate but try to limit myself to four Hershey's Special Dark Chocolate with Almonds Nuggets (a serving,

according to the package)a day. I also weigh 135 pounds and am 5'2" so I would like to lose some pounds. Is it really possible to eat more chocolate and still lose weight?

Joe: There's only one way to find out... You may have a cookbook on the way.

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Serving size is always difficult, mostly because it's at the manufacturer's discretion. There is only one secret to losing weight--and here we're about to put every diet book out of business. "Eat less, move more." It's that simple--and believe us, we need to practive even more what we preach, especially with chocolate candy in the house!

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New England again - Swedish punch: Swedish punch is alcoholic. No go at IKEA.

Jane Black: Oh my bad! I wonder if you could get a liquor store to order it for you.

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Rockville, Md.: I have wanted to participate in CSA for awhile now, but I just realized how expensive they are. Does this cost significantly more than if I bought vegetables at a regular grocery store? I would like to give my money to support farmers rather than big chains. Also, the student package is ideal for me. I am a student, but not at Georgetown or Loyola. Do you know if they offer their package to other students in the area? I would be willing to it pick up at those schools because they're probably closer to me than the actual farm Thanks for the help!

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'll have a better sense of the cost after I go through the season. I'll make sure to address that question.

Walter: Mission Three, the CSA that delivers fresh local fruit to students in dorms, also has drop-offs at George Washington and George Mason. For more information: 530-260-1502.

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Mario s cookware: Is made in China by copco. Other than his cookware, being extremely heavy(too heavy for its own good). The colors seem to be the best think about them. BTW, Jane I do agree with you, the risotto pan is sharp looking.

Its Staub or Le Creuset for me.

Joe: I'm a L.C. owner and so appreciate your thoughts here, but I have to say that other than the China pedigree, I think Mario's look really good -- and they're absolutely no heavier than Staub or Le Creuset... But we'll try to test them and let you know.

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Albuquerque, NM: Hello from Albuquerque. If memory serves me, some weeks ago you gave away the book titled OLIVE OIL BAKING by Lisa A. Sheldon. I've acquired a copy but need some advice about possible substitutions. Many of the recipes call for whole wheat pastry flour--I already have regular whole wheat flour on hand. What would happen to a recipe if I use that instead?

Also Sheldon often calls for low-fat or non-fat ingredients such as sour cream or cream cheese. Again my question is what kind of changes can I expect if I use full fat ingredients? I know it will change the fat content of the finished product, but will it change the texture markedly?

Thanks for helping me out. I look forward to this chat every week!

Bonnie: Hi! We're having your kind of weather here today. Pastry flour, even made from whole wheat, is going to have a finer texture. The whole-wheat kind will have more gluten than regular cake flour. Your regular whole wheat flour will have MUCH more gluten, so if the recipe's calling for pastry flour, I wouldn't recommend that wwf substitution.

I'd think the full-fat versions would not affect the texture so much -- just the nutritionals.

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chocolate for truffles- follow up: Thanks for the "no baking" advice. I thought I read somewhere that seized chocolate can be used for baking and was considering using it in a brownie recipe. Chocolate chunks in ice cream sounds like a great idea. I hear ice cream is good for increasing fertility!

Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein: Wow, chocolate and fertility. Excellent. We would say chocolate is very good for fertility, so long as you're not allergic to it!

That said, there is some evidence to link chocolate and romance. But that may be because chocolate aids in seratonin uptake--and happier people are sexier people by far!

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Washington, D.C.: There is a little Vietnamese place to the left of Kanlaya on 6th street that makes banh mi sandwiches. I haven't had many so can't attest to their authenticity.

Walter: I didn't know there was a banh mi in DC. I'll head down and check-it-out as soon as I can. Thanks.

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Cookware: Amazon is a great resource. They often have excellent prices on sets, too. I bought a large set of Cuisinart classic -- stainless steel, NOT nonstick -- for $90 (with free shipping). If you want to make sure you see and handle the pans first, however, you'll have to see if you can find them in a store somewhere, and then compare to Amazon's prices.

Jane Black: So you have no non-stick...interesting.

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mario s cookware: The lasagna EMPTY weighs 11 ponds!!!

Jane Black: Style over substance. Though not his food. I think Lupa is still, after all these years, one of my favorite restaurants in New York.

Joe: My Le Creuset lasagna pan weighs that much, too! I'm just sayin'...

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Vermont: I used IKEA bags at the CSA this past summer, and they were perfect. Also, they were easy to rinse out the excess dirt and mud that would gather in the bottom. And, I believe they cost me 50 cents apiece or something ridiculous like that.

Jane Black: I was actually at Ikea right after they started charging for bags. It was amazing how many people forwent the plastic bags, paid 50 cents for the reuseable bags and, I hope, reused them.

I think it's testament to the fact that store policies do have an influence on people's behavior. If you make it just a little difficult for people to use plastic bags, they won't. If you continue to give them out free, they have no incentive to change behavior.

I say this because I've gotten a ton of emails today saying that I am wrong to suggest that people should wait for the stores to do something and that anyone who uses plastic bags (including me) is lazy -- or worse. Maybe. But realistically store decisions will change human behavior faster. So I hope they do.

And yes, a great reuse for IKEA bags is the CSA or farmers market.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Batali cookware looks great but the coating peels off quickly.

An unsung brand I like a lot is Berndes.

The saucepan and skillet I got ten years ago as wedding gifts are still just fine.

Jane Black: Interesting.
I haven't tried Berndes. Making my list...

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Silver Spring, Md.: I made some coconut pancakes last night but was confused when it came to topping them. Syrup didn't sound right, but I don't like butter. I ended up eating the plain (the coconut is pretty strong), but wondered what could I have done?

And you're right about the Post bags---my dog is glad to have them! I'm sure the previous poster could find a dogless neighbor who would gladly donate their bags to them so they wouldn't have to use the plastic bags at grocery stores.

Bonnie: Go with a fruity syrup instead, like blueberry. Or maybe a quick caramel sauce.

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Tysons, Va.: Another resource for pots and pans is a restaurant supply place such as Best Equipment. I saw lots of nifty-looking stuff that I would love to have. I'm waiting until I move before I stock up. I've also bought some stuff on Amazon.

I've been making mendiant for years and didn't even know it. It sounds nicer with a French name, doesn't it?

Jane Black: I need to try that place. I adore restaurant supply places.

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Speaking of fish . . .: Today is Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent during which Catholics refrain from eating meat on Fridays. I am looking for some good easy and simple fish recipes. Grilled would be great. And if you can recommend some sources for good fresh fish in the area, I would appreciate it! (I am in Kensington).

Bonnie: If you're in Kensington with a car, take a trip either out to River Falls Seafood in Potomac or to BlackSalt in the Palisades section of NW DC.

Here are a few nifty recipes:Ginger Juice Butter Sauce

Fish With Orange, Cloves and Ginger

Check out others in an Advanced Search (Fast/Fish) on www.washingtonpost.com/recipes.

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Joe: You've rolled us in cocoa powder, our exterior is smooth, and we're sitting on the lined baking sheet, which means we're done!

Thanks for all the great questions today, everyone! And now, for our giveaway winners: The 5'2" chocolate lover, naturally, will get "Eat More Chocolate, Lose Weight Anyway." The Rosslyn chatter who asked us to be his/her Valentine gets, naturally, this little box of chocolates! And I'm holding onto these Scotch coasters until someone with more of a boozy sensibility crosses our radar...

Until next time, happy cooking, eating and reading!

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