Ask Tom
Foil Swans and Aruba

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, February 6, 2008 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Anonymous: Getting a jump on the chat today. Hope you will add this annoying terminology to the list of nevermores:

Roast off

Braise off

Fry off

I can see "bake-off" as it refers to a baking contest. But why are we now hearing the word "OFF" appended to the specific cooking verbs? Is roasting off something different than roasting? This is a fairly new construction - you, Tom, could do the nation a great service by consigning it to the scrap heap before it really takes hold. Oh, and, LOVE the chats!

Tom Sietsema: Here's to raising the bar, not lowering it!

Good morning, all. Good to "see" so many of you in the room today. Bring me your questions, your gripes, your tired, your poor ...

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Doggie Bags/Ask Tom: Wow. People really get -that- worked up over leftovers? I've forgotten meals at restaurants - my bad - but I have never called a manager and whined about it. A $50 gift certificate seems excessive...like rewarding a tantrum-throwing child with a gift. Ugh.

Tom Sietsema: I think I hinted at that in my response, or I at least tried to let readers know I thought Jaleo's gesture was above and beyond the call of duty. But the woman in question didn't come off as someone who wanted something for free -- I can smell those folks from a mile away, trust me! -- and she herself was utterly surprised by the restaurant's generous response to her complaint.

washingtonpost.com: Ask Tom: Jaleo's Doggie Bags.

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Washington, D.C.: I was both happy and sad to read today's Dish. I walked by the closed Dakota Cowgirl just days ago and was saddened that it closed. It was always dependable for a decent burger. I am very happy to hear that the Logan Circle will get a new fresh spot focusing on beer, wine, and tasty food. It should be a good addition if done right.

Tom Sietsema: I agree. And the folks behind Neighborhood Restaurant Group have a pretty good track record. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

washingtonpost.com: The Dish on Neighborhood Restaurant Group's new spot.

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Old Town, Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom,

I'm moving to Capitol Hill soon. I know there's the new Laconda and a Matchbox coming my way, but what are some other favorites I can look forward to? I'm thinking of places I will miss like Rustico, Majestic, and even Mai Tai or Union Street pub.

Tom Sietsema: In addition to the places you list, I'd add Johnny's Half Shell for seafood; Montmartre for French bistro cooking; Sonoma for drinks in the upstairs lounge; Belga Cafe for mussels, frites and beer. They should keep you busy, and happy, for a few weeks.

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Silver Spring, Md: Thanks for your help. Where can I get a pre-theater meal close to the Kennedy Center that is also young-child friendly? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: The revamped Dish on 25th St. would be a good place for a bite. The small dining room has a grown-up feel, but the menu -- including a three-course, pre-theater deal -- has something for every appetite.

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Going to Vegas, and...: I was just browsing thru your "postcards." Is your most recent Las Vegas postcard from 2005? I couldn't find one since then. Any thoughts from you or chatters if the places recommended are still The Best? Thank you!

Tom Sietsema: I'm waaaaaay behind on Vegas these days. Maybe a chatter can help you out?

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom,

I'll be downtown at lunch today to have some stitches removed (don't ask) and would like to treat myself to a nice lunch after. Budget doesn't matter, cuisine doesn't matter (except sushi--no sushi), and I'll be happily dining alone. Any recommendations in the general vicinity of 17th and I? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: You'll be in the perfect position to sample the tapas bar at the romantic Taberna del Alabardero, which is at 1776 I St. NW (and which just added a new chef). Some sherry, some potato omelet and some cheese should help take some sting out of your day.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Taberna del Alabardero.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, After reading your review on Hudson I decided to check out their website and make a reservation. Boy was I shocked at their prices! $17 for a bacon cheeseburger!? Who is their target market? I was actually looking for Valentine's Day, but they are charging more for the same menu at "prime time" seating than the other two seatings. Do they really think we should feel honored to dine at their restaurant?

Tom Sietsema: Well, remember the Zip Code you're in. The West End is some pretty pricey real estate. Just up the street, Westend Bistro by Eric Ripert is charging $18 for its burger.

But still.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Hudson.

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Bethesda, Md.: Regarding the magnanimous response of Jaleo to the diner who forgot a doggie bag as recounted in the Sunday magazine, we had a similar positive outcome last summer at Straits of Malaya near Dupont Circle. After asking our waiter for a doggie bag, we later were informed by the owner that our left-overs had been accidently thrown out. He offerred to prepare one of the dishes we had ordered for dinner as a replacement and wrapped it for us to take home. We'll be sure to return again and again.

Tom Sietsema: It sounds as if more of us need to run through a checklist before we leave a restaurant:

Credit card? Check.

Car keys? Check.

Glasses? Ditto.

Leftover laksa? (Leftover laksa? Where did we put it?)

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D.C. -- missing liliana: Hi Tom. Here's a very, very belated question for you -- we loved Trattoria Liliana and were so sad to see it close suddenly a few years ago -- do you know what happened to Maurice and Liliana?

Tom Sietsema: Maurice retired, but his wife is making (great) desserts for Locanda on the Hill

washingtonpost.com: Review of Locanda.

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Dupont: I was so interested to read your review of Hudson Sunday morning, having been there on Saturday night. I had a somewhat opposite experience in that I found everything undersalted, particularly the macaroni and cheese, which was also overly soupy. And serving the calamari in napkin, while pretty, also made it soggy and encouraged the coating to fall off. Perhaps we just have different tastes, but I think the restaurant is just really uneven. Between the iffy food and the overly fussy cocktails I won't be back. It's a shame because it's a really nice space.

Tom Sietsema: I was contacted by the owner after the review went online, and he told me that saltiness and a few other problems I experienced had been identified and corrected since my last visit. I'd give Hudson another shot. They're really working hard to make the place a hit.

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NW, D.C.: Hi Tom,

After reading your raving comments about Citronelle for so long, I went and experienced it for my birthday last Friday. To sum up the experience, I can say that the food was excellent but the ambiance was too stuffy and old (no offense to older people). In addition to that, I was hoping to see M. Michel Richard but he was not there to my disappointment. You think he is often at Central? I was thinking he would be at C. because it's more of a high end restaurant and it was a Friday night. Would appreciate your comment.

Tom Sietsema: Stuffy? I wouldn't have used the word to describe Citronelle in the past, but I see what you mean: The interior needs some rethinking. For starters, the restaurant could ditch its "mood" wall.

Mr. Richard is a pretty regular presence at Citronelle when he's in town. I'm not sure hw to explain his absence from your visit. He definitely adds pizazz to the room when he's there.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Greetings Tom:

Have you had a chance recently to experience the food at Obelisk? Is its absence from the recent Post magazine significant? My sister will be coming to dc for her annual visit which always includes a dinner out. I've already taken her to my favorites (Palena, Rasika, Bucks and Two Amys). I'm planning on Obelisk which I've greatly enjoyed in the past but its been a number of years. Thoughts????

With thanks ...

Tom Sietsema: I checked out Obelisk for the fall dining guide. I was dazzled but its generous antipasti and first courses, but disappointed by the main courses that followed. And the room could use a makeover -- it looks rather dated and a bit uncared for these days. If it's luscious Italian you want, try Tosca.

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Md.: Jaleao did go above and beyond. But you know what? The woman could have (and should have, IMHO) refused it gracefully.

Tom Sietsema: You are not the only reader to have suggested that.

When I think about it again, it wasn't a whole dinner she left behind, it was partially sampled mousse!

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Tinfoil swans: Tom, this is very random and I won't blame you if you don't answer it, but here goes. You know how in the movies the quintessential restaurant doggie bag is the tinfoil swan? I'm not proud of this, but I want on. I have for years. Do you know of any restaurant, of any type, anywhere in the DMV area that actually sends one home with a tinfoil swan? Consider this your make-a-wish request for the day.

Tom Sietsema: Chatters, can we make this poster's dream come true? The last time I saw a foil swan, outside the cinema, was at a French restaurant that is no longer with us.

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Just Wondering, MD: Has Urban BBQ in Rockville gone from great to mediocre?

Tom Sietsema: Gosh, I sure hope not. What seems to be the problem?

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Virginia: Hi Tom,

we got a gift card for Great American restaurants...which one is your favorite?

Tom Sietsema: They change from year to year. Bt I have a soft spot for Artie's, possibly because of the straightforward and dependable American cooking and possibly because I've enjoyed the restaurant with dear friends over the seasons.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Artie's.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom- I have a pretty great dilemma on my hands, and need your advice! Since I'm an avid and aspiring "foodie", my wonderful boyfriend is giving me dinner at my choice of restaurant for my Valentine's Day present. Since I have been to Citronelle and Komi (repeatedly for the last one), I have narrowed down my picks to Minibar, Cityzen, and Restaurant Eve. Which would you go with, given the choice? We're pretty adventurous eaters, especially me, and it would be my boyfriend's first foray into the fine DC dining scene so my main goal for the night is to have a stellar experience for both of us. Also, I should add that this (thankfully) doesn't have to be ON or even close to the actual February 14th date... just hopefully semi-soon! Thanks!!

Tom Sietsema: You've picked some mighty fine restaurants -- but they're very, very different from one another.

If you're up for a night at the circus, go for Minibar.

If you want to soak up a beautiful dining room and revel in cooking informed by the chef's years at the esteemed French Laundry in California, try CityZen.

If you want a night of soulful flavors, intriguing drinks and informed pampering, I'd nod in the direction of Eve.

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Lex Pk: I find it hard to believe that someone actually had a doggie bag at Jaleo. After all, this is a place that specialize in small plates. If something is left over, it is probably because no one liked it, so why would you take it home? Generally speaking, I find the whole idea of a doggie bag extremly vulgar and tacky, unless you are actually taking that Porterhouse bone home to Fido. Even then, I have been told that steak bones are really not very good things for dogs to gnaw on.

Tom Sietsema: I know, I know. Leftovers at a tapas restaurant?

But the ladies really, really wanted that leftover mousse.

In part because I find restaurant portions so large, I like taking home what I can't finish. And house-made pasta from Spezie, or squid and sour cabbage from Four Sisters, is a pretty swell alternative to the Post cafeteria!

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Washington, D.C.: Any juicy story in the industry? We are bored of the same old - where to take my ----, where to get ----- etc etc

Tom Sietsema: Lots of juice -- but too much of it is unsubstantiated. I try not to share gossip if I can't nail it down myself.

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re: the "aspiring foodie": You might add that if you want to get a reservation within the next couple weeks, she should go for somewhere else! Those places are all too popular to get in with less than a few weeks notice!

Tom Sietsema: Yep, but I think she knows that. And if she doesn't, she will now.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm an avid and aspiring "foodie."

Lady, if I were you I wouldn't go around advertising that on this chat. Some people don't like the word "foodie" nor those who use it.

Tom Sietsema: Maybe she sat out last week's gripe-a-thon.

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Foil Swans: The Trellis in Williamsburg VA does swans.

And other shapes - we got a foil crab once.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks. I wonder if there's anything closer?

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Leftoverland: Oh lord. I'd hate to be in the next cube over when you decide to reheat your squid and sour cabbage in the microwave.

Tom Sietsema: That's grist for NEXT week's discussion.

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Baltimore, Md.: Tom,

Have you been to any of the new restaurants in the Rockville Town Center? Am curious how the tapas at La Tasca compare with Jaleo?

Tom Sietsema: I'm in lust with a non-chain: the new, Peruvian restaurant called La Canela.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite of La Canela.

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Curious, Va.: Tom, I was wondering if the food consulting group that the local area chef was working on starting ever ended up taking off. I can't remember the name of it, and wasn't getting any good results in a search on the post.com. Could you fill us in?

Tom Sietsema: Are you thinking of David Guas, the former pastry chef who left Passion Food Group (think DC Coast, Ceiba, Ten Penh, etc.) recently?

washingtonpost.com: Ask Tom: Sweets News.

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Washington, D.C.: What Would Tom Do?

I was at a business dinner at a downtown restaurant that had escolar on the menu. I'd read in a previous chat that escolar can have very unpleasant side effects for certain diners. When some of my fellow diners asked the waiter to describe escolar she simply told them it was a white fish. I was caught in a terrible predicament not knowing whether I should tell them about the digusting digestive side effects that may await them should they order the fish. To my relief, nobody ordered it.

What would you do in that situation? Would you let business clients order it and hope things worked out ok? Was a warning proper? Should the restaurant indicate that some people have trouble digesting the fish? Help!

Tom Sietsema: Tom would probably keep quiet, and here's why: Even if one of your dining companions were susceptible to escolar's, uh, *moving* charms, he or she probably wouldn't be eating more than six ounces of the fish. And that's the amount that some experts say tends to minimize potential problems.

But good for you to be so thoughtful!

washingtonpost.com: Ask Tom: Escolar.

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Turkey Point Island, Md.:"Lady, if I were you I wouldn't go around advertising that on this chat. Some people don't like the word "foodie" nor those who use it."

Tom, this is much more annoying than the use of the word "foodie."

Tom Sietsema: Time out, kids, time out!

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Cashion's does a tinfoil swan.

Tom Sietsema: Really? That's surprising. But charming.

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Reston, Va.: Our party of four recently had reservations at Hooked in Sterling, and were shown to four seats at the sushi bar. Since it would have been difficult to talk, we said we'd wait for a table. We were then told, quite unceremoniously, that a reservation got us four seats, not a table -- it was the counter or nothing. When did a reservation change from reserving a table to a seat at the counter?

Tom Sietsema: Sitting at a counter and sitting at a table are two different experiences. Whoever took the reservation should have told you there was the possibility of being seated at the bar -- and whoever "greeted" you at the door needs to work on his or her delivery.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Hooked.

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Re: Bethesda Restaurant Week: Tom, I know the Bethesda Restaurant Week doesn't get as much hype as the DC one, but I wanted to report that I visited the newly opened Gaffney's last Friday and it was amazing! There was not a huge selection on the RW menu, but the regular menu prices were pretty reasonable, so we just ordered from there. I had the crab cakes, and my husband had a steak, and we both couldn't have been happier. We had gone there a few other times, and the place is pretty small so we were worried about how they would be able to handle a RW crowd, but everything seemed to be running really smoothly! I was just wondering if you had any plans to review this place, I think it's a good contender in the Bethesda restaurant scene!

Tom Sietsema: If I had plans to review the place -- a brand new restaurant -- I don't think I'd announce my intention in a public forum such as this. ("Nice try!" as Hillary Clinton said to Wolf Blitzer during the recent Democratic debates.)

In the event you're not a publicist, thanks for sharing your impressions.

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Washington, D.C.: Love your chats! I had never before checked out your postcards but did before going to Charleston a couple of weeks ago. Thank you for the suggestion of Fig. It was AMAZING. The food was some of the best I've ever had and the waitress was great -- attentive, helpful and knowledgeable, without being overbearing or pretentious. From now on I will check the postcards before going anywhere.

Thanks again!

Tom Sietsema: What a great plug -- for me, me, ME!

Seriously, thanks for the feedback. I'm always grateful to hear from readers who have sampled my out-of-town suggestions.

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H St. Corridor: Re: Places to dine in Aruba

It may be too late, but if the poster from last week is out there, you must try Cuba's Cooking in Aruba. The owner is a Canadian. I believe he said he married a Cuban woman and the two of them spent a few months traveling through Cuba together collecting the recipes that he uses in the restaurant along the way. I remember fantastic Picadillo and Ceviche.

Cuba's Cookin'

Wilhelminastraat #27

Oranjestad

Tel: +(297) - 588 0627

Fax: +(297) - 582 494

Tom Sietsema: Sounds promising. Thanks.

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extremly vulgar and tacky???: I'd say waisting perfectly good food by letting it go to the trash can when there are thousands of people sleeping on the street every night is extremely vulgar and tacky. Taking home what you couldn't finish seems a little more practical and likely to produce a good lunch the next day to me.

Tom Sietsema: If you want to give it away, which I sometimes do, I'm told that street etiquette involves putting a food container on top of the trash bin, rather than inside.

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GAR: I vote for Coastal Flats. or Sweetwater.

Tom Sietsema: Both fine alternatives in the family of Great American Restaurants, I agree.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom -- Friends and I will be in NYC (Manhattan) next weekend. What places do you gravitate towards for wine and/or cocktails? Would love to find someplace unique -- somewhat along the line of PX -- with a carefully chosen, thoughtful menu of drinks. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Tom Sietsema: My current favorite watering hole at the moment is the amber-lit Brandy Library on N. Moore St., which has the feel of a private club. It's open until the wee hours -- 4 a.m. on weekends -- and doesn't allow anyone under 25 years of age inside. Love that armagnac collection! Dig those gourges!

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Arlington, Va.: Tom -

My boss is taking me out to dinner tomorrow evening and we've decided on Citronelle for dinner and Filomena for dessert. Any suggestions on what to get? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I hate to mess with your plans, but you *do* know Michel Richard got his start in pastry, don't you? In other words, why would you leave the magical Citronelle for the less-than-magical Filomena?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

Could you ask the restaurateurs who have logged on - Republicans or Democrats - favor the restaurant industry?

Tom Sietsema: I'll compile any responses I get on next week's chat, ok?

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Washington D.C.: Tom-

I seem to remember you writing a short article on a new restarant focusing on chocolate and desserts, but I can't remember the name or location and I therefore can't find the review anywhere. What was it called!!??

Tom Sietsema: Co Co. Sala (929 F St. NW) has yet to open. But its owners are aiming for Valentine's Day, or possibly BEFORE then.

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Foil Swans: L'Oustelet in Rockville does the foil swan. Also, for birthdays, they have a special swan dessert (it's made of whipped cream and spun sugar).

Tom Sietsema: Here's another one for da list ...

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RE All the questions on open table: I have a lot of experience both operating and configuring open table, so just a few notes for the curious:

1. Your history is saved in the computer each time you make a reservation; it tells us who waited on you, the time/date of your reservation, and if you showed, no showed, or cancelled.

2. There is a section for "guest notes (GN)" and "reservation notes(RN)." When you make the reservation and you type something in, it shows up under the RN and the restaraunt can add to it. The RNs only stay with the reservation and erase after it is complete. The GNs are entered by the restaurant and stay with the person forever (potentially). They are notes like "wheelchair access needed" "VIP" "likes table XX" etc. They can also say "very difficult guest" or something of a meaner nature.

3. If you No-Show at a restaurant, they WILL notice, and if you do it repeatedly they will look it up and know and may stop honoring your reservations. I think this is completely fair.

4. Open table does cost the restaurant money, that is why it is free to patrons. So if you make a reservation, not only did the restaurant pay for the system, setup, maintenance etc, they pay about a penny a reservation. If you noshow or cancel it STILL costs them money.

5. Open table does have VIP status for members, some restaurants will treat you like a VIP if you have that but it is more likely that you will get special treatment if you dine at THAT restaurant a lot.

6. USE OPEN TABLE! Stop calling restaurants at 7pm on a Friday-Saturday night or during busy hours. Its free, easy, and restaurants LOVE it. Think of when you arrive at a restaurant and try to speak to the hostess who is on the phone for 10 minutes trying to take a reservation for next monday or something.

Hope that helps!

Tom Sietsema: Something other than comments about leftovers! And just as we're winding down the hour!

I just got a flood of questions-- GOOD ones, WEIGHTY ones -- which I'd love to address but don't have the time for right this moment. Please remember to send in questions before, or at least early in, the chat. I guarantee they have a better chance of seeing the light of this program.

Cheers for now. See you next Wednesday!

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