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White Napkins and Vegetarian Choices

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Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, February 13, 2008; 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Tom Sietsema: Yuck! I hope you're all warm and toasty as we begin today's chat. Or at least as warm and toasty as one can be, sitting in a cubicle on this gray, cold and definitely wet Wednesday.

Lots going on in Food Land:

Michael Hartzer, late of the shuttered Veridian in Logan Circle, has been hired by IndeBleu to take over the Penn Quarter kitchen. (Nothing like starting a new cooking gig right before Valentine's Day, huh?) Hartzer tells me he'll be incorporating his new dishes slowly over the next few weeks. And yes, Indian accents are part, but certainly not all, of hs game plan.

Across the river, longtime Roberto Donna sidekick Amy Brandwein has left Bebo in Crystal City to do her own thing at the Ritz-Carlton in Pentagon City. I'll be writing more about her transition in next week's Dish column.

Finally, there have been shad roe sightings -- so early this year! -- around town. Look to find the spring delicacy, which is coming from Georgia right now, at the Oceanaire Seafood Room and Mark & Orlando's.

Let's roll!

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Thrasher fan club: Tom, do you think Todd Thrasher sometimes lurks here? My husband and I went to PX and I fell in love with the sublime Sweet Basil drink he mixes. I have tried to replicate it to no avail. I made my basil simple syrup and bought some Lillet, but don't know how to make orange water and don't know the proportions (and probably messed up the syrup as well). What are my chances of actually getting the recipe for this - and the recipe for any of his homemade ingredients? I would love to serve this on valentines day! Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Todd, want to make a fan even happier than she already is? Here's your chance .... (we'll keep our fingers crossed that he spots this at the top of the hour today).

washingtonpost.com: Review of PX.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom--

Just a quick question...which would you rather do, cut off a finger, or eat at Lauriol Plaza?

Tom Sietsema: Oh, that's too easy!

Cut off my fin- ....

Wait a minute. Let me go back and try the place anew. It might not be this week, it might not be next week, but I'm determined to check the place out again. Friends tell me there are actually a few nice things on the menu.

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Logan Circle, Washington, DC: I was very surprised at your good review of Hudson. It appears that you reviewed a restaurant much different from the one I visited several weeks ago. My lobster bisque was bitter, with no "bisque" at all. There was some strange tasting, chewy, "stuff" in the bottom, which I suppose was supposed to be lobster. The fried chicken was OK, after I scraped off the far too salty breading. Could you help me understand your rating again? Are you simply impressed that Michel Richard's son is cooking there or did you see something I did not?

Tom Sietsema: If you read my review again, you'll see I felt strongly (really liked) three things on the menu: the matzo ball soup, the fried chicken and the risotto. I acknowledged the kitchen's heavy hand with salt -- a problem I'm told has since been rectified. As for news of Richard's son working at Hudson, which I wrote about in today's Dish column, the tyounger Richard had yet to be hired when I was in the process of reviewing the place.

washingtonpost.com: The Dish on Michael Richard.

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Washington, D.C.: There are so many amazing places in DC to have a nice, lengthy meal, but what if you just want to sit and catch up over a few classes of wine or decent beer (good food would be an obvious plus)? Where would recommend as the elusive location to sit and linger over good drinks without being rushed out or hogging a table that your server could be turning over to other guests?

Tom Sietsema:"Elusive" and "good?" The problem with your question is, if there's good food and drink out there, chances are, they won't be a secret (or won't be for long).

Let's start a list, though, of possibilities.

What about the bar at Perry's in Adams Morgan, the wine room above Bistro Lepic and the Curry Club in Georgetown?

washingtonpost.com: Review of Curry Club.

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Georgetown: Hi Tom,

I work part time at a store in Georgetown, and tourists quite frequently ask for suggestions to eat. I usually recommend Hook, but I often get a "Well I don't like seafood" response followed by an annoyed look that I'm not very helpful.

Instead of trying to channel my inner Tom, I was wondering what the real Tom would recommend in such a situation? Maybe both mid-level and pricier restaurants that are within a few blocks of say M & Wisconsin?

Thanks so much!!

Tom Sietsema: Glad to help you out. Peacock Cafe, Mendocino Grille (for the upscalers among your customers), Old Glory BBQ and Pizzeria Paradiso all leap to mind as worthy choices.

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Springfield, Va.: Tom,

Do you knwo anywhere in the Tyson's Corner area for a good brunch?

Tom Sietsema: Coastal Flats? Lebanese Taverna? Sweetwater Tavern?

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Charlotte, NC: Tom - Lucky me, we're going to Grand Cayman in 2 weeks. Can you (or any readers) make some restaurant recommendations? We like all types of food, and like to eat well while on vacation, but also like to find hidden gems and cheap eats. We're really open to anything! Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Today's challenge: Food ideas in Grand Cayman. Chatters, let's try to help out a poster from Charlotte.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm looking for a place to have a nice breakfast on a weekday in the Penn Quarter/Chinatown area. Not many places seem to be open (except Teaism). Any other suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Isn't Poste open for breakfast?

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Centreville, Va.: First, thank you for your weekly chats. You are invaluable to the DC dining scene.

For my bridal shower, my girlfriends are taking me to CORK for a wine tasting and dinner. The wine list looks fantastic, but what have you been hearing about the food and service?

Tom Sietsema: Food is (mostly) getting raves; service is getting mixed reviews. The place has been JAMMED every time I've been in, and I think the staff didn't anticipate QUITE the onslaught. But you'll be in a rear (private) room, as I understand it -- closer to the kitchen.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm not often on dates, but it concerns me that when i am and the person i'm with seems not quite right for me age wise or looks wise, the waiters start giggling.

Is that right?

Tom Sietsema: Say that again, please?

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Valentine's Day: Once again that day we in the industry refer to somewhat morbidly as The Massacre is upon us. Could you please remind your readers that it is QUITE OK to cancel an unused reservation!!! We won't be upset! All too many people make reservations and then change plans, or make multiple reservations and don't cancel the unneeded ones. Last year my restaurant had an attrition rate of just over 30%. And we could have filled many of those seats with last minute guests had we known. Also, we are serving ALOT of people that may be new to our "concept" or "cuisine" which leads to service staff being inundated with questions and even odd requests such as substitutions or last minute dietary concerns that further hamper our abilities to round our sections or even possibly bog down or compromise both the front and back of house staffs. PLEASE, communicate with us early if there are dietary issues. View any websites or reviews for menu information. And be patient with us. I assure most or all of us are trying as hard as we can and would prefer to be somewhere else or with someone else on this holiday than to be at work pulling our hair out!!!

Tom Sietsema: Got that, diners?

1) Honor thy reservations -- or at least have the courtesy to call and cancel if you don't plan to use the table.

2) Do some homework. If the restaurant is new to you, go online and read up on the place. (Knowing something about the venue will also impress your date.)

3) Call in with any dietary or other special requests. This is called Letting the Restaurant Help You.

4) Sit back and relax. Nothing kills the libido more than stress.

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Falls Church, Va.: If someone wants to linger over drinks and not feel rushed or hog a table, shouldn't they just go out on a week night, or start dinner at 9 or 10 pm?

Tom Sietsema: Right-o. Or opt to sit at the bar -- which, in my opinion, is one of the best places to experience a restaurant.

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Lingering over drinks: my fave is Bar Pilar. wonderful squid, too.

Tom Sietsema: Great idea.

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Cork: Hi Tom - My friends and I went to Cork on Saturday night and were disappointed! We waited over two and a half hours for a table (to be fair there were 8 of us) but orginally told us it would be a half an hour, then 45 mins and then they had no clue! They said that they couldn't get an accurate wait time because people were lingering over their wine. Shouldn't they have just been up front from the start and say they couldn't handle a group of 8? How do other wine bars deal with people lingering over their wine and not giving up their tables?

Tom Sietsema: Cork's biggest problem? It has fewer than 80 seats.

A tip: The restaurant takes pre-theater reservations for 5:30-6:30 p.m.

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Metro Centro: Tom - What's your favorite steak at Capital Grille?

Tom Sietsema: I'm partial to one of the aged porterhouse steaks myself ("Extra mold, please!")

washingtonpost.com: Review of the Capital Grille.

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Noise in restaurants: Went to Bazin's Restaurant (in Vienna) for my birthday and although the food was very nice, the restautant was soooo loud it was almost overwhelming. We basically had to put our heads together in order to have any sort of conversation. Being married for so long (and having talked for years), we made do with less conversation and didn't let it ruin the experience. That said I would not recommend this place for any newly dating couples or people who are hard of hearing (unless they are deaf and know sign language). We might be back during the week, but never again on a weekend night. It just wasn't worth it to eat as if you were sitting by the side of a freeway (you know that loud 'white noise' hum).

Tom Sietsema: Funny. I thought the noise pollution had ceased there. The restaurant put in sound-absorbing tiles shortly after my review ran. (Yep, I couldn't stand the noise, either.)

washingtonpost.com: Review: Bazin's on Church.

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Brookland, D.C.: Tom - Love your chats! Long time reader first time submission. My husband is taking me to Citronelle for a celebration next week. It will be our first time there. What should we not miss? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: A chance to chat with the maestro himself, Michel Richard.

Seriously, it's hard to go wrong with almost anything on Citronelle's menu, which changes with frequency. Go for something you love, something you don't eat at home, something decadent!

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Washington, D.C.: Whats good for V-Day?

Tom Sietsema: Can you be more specific, please?

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K Street: Hi Tom- I was hoping you could help me with an odd request. I'll be traveling with some company execs next week and have been tasked with making a dinner reservations in...wait for it...Minneapolis. I'm stumped?! I've searched the postcards, but don't think Minnesota has made it on your radar screen as a top culinary destination. Any recommendations you could provide would be VERY helpful!

Tom Sietsema: Actually, there IS a Twin Cities postcard. Email me later in the week and I can try to help you out with more suggestions (I'm speaking in Minneapolis next week and need to do sme advance reporting myself).

washingtonpost.com: Postcard From Tom: Minneapolis.

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Washington, D.C.: Hey, Tom -

A question for you about breakfasts. I love sitting down and having a nice, white-tablecloth breakfast once a week or so. I live on the hill, work downtown, and usually switch between Les Halles and Old Ebbitt in the mornings. Lately, though, I was looking for a change. Do you have any suggestions for nice breakfast spots, open early, in either of those areas?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Both Cafe du Parc near the Willard and Johnny's Half Shell on the Hill offer the a.m. repast.

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Rockville, Md.:"Say that again, please? "

Not a problem. Get them the "happy meal."

Tom Sietsema: I was thinking more along the lines of a happy ending (you know, d-e-s-s-e-r-t).

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Whats good for V-Day?: Reservations!

Tom Sietsema: Actually, they are if you're dining out. But I never encourage people to eat out on V-Day. (Restaurants are packed, prices are jacked up, servers tend not to want to be there, etc.)

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Vegetarian In Penn Quarter: Is the vegetarian tasting menu at CityZen "worth it"?

Tom Sietsema: Absolutely. I'd love to see more restaurants offer such, too. It's excitng to see what a really great chef can do when he has meat and fish taken away from his play box.

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8 with no reservations?: Maybe it's just me, but it's a little silly to think that a popular restaurant would be able to quickly/easily accommodate such a large group without reservations! What were they thinking not calling ahead?

Tom Sietsema: Well, I think the rub is this: the group was given a wait time and it was way off base.

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Call in with any dietary or other special requests.: I'm guilty about not mentioning this on the phone. I always feel like the staff is too busy when I call to discuss it. But, I do mention my food allergy as soon as I'm seated. I've found that at cheap eats places, they don't seem to care (generally). But at higher end restaurants they go out of their way to accomodate. One waiter even knew as much as I did about my gluten allergy. He knew I shouldn't have soy sauce and steered me away from those dishes. I was impressed.

I will start mentioning it when I make reservations.

Tom Sietsema: We have a super-diner among us!

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RE: Captial Grille: Tom, what about the lunch menu at the Capital Grille. Any recommendations? They don't have the Porterhouse (my favorite too) during lunch.

They do offer the dry-aged sirloin steak lunch. Just as good as Poerterhouse?

Tom Sietsema: Close, but no cigar.

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Stafford, Va.: Hi Tom, faithful reader of your chats. I'm getting married in June. The rehearsal dinner's my responsibility and I'm a bit lost. Most of the guests probably won't care where they eat, but as an enthusiastic cooker and eater, I care, a lot! I'd love a suggestion for a good restaurant, moderately priced, preferably with a private room for 20-30 people. Location not critical, nor is cuisine. Any thoughts?

Tom Sietsema: Are we talking Washington? Or close to the city?

Places with private spaces in the District include: Ceiba, the Occidental, Oval Room, Taberna del Alabardero, Tosca and Vidalia.

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Northwest: Weekly we have a group of neighbors that gather together at one of our houses. We get carry-out and I need something interesting. Nothing is off limits and we have done everything from Ethiopian to Vace Lasagna to Sushi of all kinds. Any suggestions in the upper NW area? (Adams Morgan up to Chevy Chase) We are running out of ideas.

Tom Sietsema: What a great idea! How long have you been doing this, how many neighbors does it involve and who pays for what?

As for ideas for the future, I'd try Mexican from Casa Oaxaca, roti from Islander Caribbean, soul food from Oohhs and Aahhs, Indian from Passage to India and Afghan from Faryab. Reviews of each are online here.

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Dupont Circle: Can't we all just get along? I thought last week's chat was particularly snarky. I'd much rather see Tom get interesting questions and comments about the local food scene than a chat where people post their gripes about other chatters and verbal pet peeves... Let's not waste each other's time here! On another note- I had drinks and appetizers at West End last week and absolutely loved it. Will we be seeing a review anytime soon? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I like variety (and mixing things up), so you won't see me putting a stop to "snarky" questions or comments. But like yourself, I appreciate thoughtful feedback and questions about dining experiences. Basically, anything having to do with matters of the table -- and food, of course -- is fair game in this chat.

And the more detail you can provide, the better. If the service was awful someplace, HOW was it awful? And if you love a certain place, describe as best you can why it tugs at your heart strings.

As for the Westend Bistro by Eric Ripert, stay tuned. You should see my take on the place shortly.

Unrelated note: The managers of the Inn at Little Washington and Rasika have both attempted to track down the posters who wrote in earlier about AWOL desserts (at the Inn) and boorish service (at Rasika). If you recognize yourself in either instance, please contact me at asktom@washpost.com and I'll attempt to put you in touch with the restaurants.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: A complaint about Persimmon during Bethesda Restaurant Week. I called to ask whether they had any vegetarian option on the RW menu -- they said no, but the chef could "fix you a veggie plate." I asked whether that meant just a plate of vegetables, and was told that it did. I politely told them that I would not be coming because I didn't find that an acceptable vegetarian option (had a bad experience paying way too much for a horrible, bland "veggie plate" at Ceiba, after having called and been told there was a "vegetarian entree"). I also asked him to pass the complaint on to whoever prepares the menu.

All I ask is just ONE option that is not just a collection of boiled/sauteed/roasted vegetables.

Tom Sietsema: You have my sympathy.

Restaurants should keep in mind that it isn't just vegetarians who like meatless dishes, or the option of (interesting) meatless dishes. Now and then, I think a number of carnivores go the vegetarian route when we're dining out. A bunch of side dishes thrown on a plate doesn't cut it.

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Back in the 80's.........:.........there was a DC restaurant called "Dominique's". Is it still around? I am having trouble locating it. If it is, is it good?

Thank you for taking questions.

Thank you

Tom Sietsema: Dominique's is no more. But I have fond memories of taking dates there back in my college days. We dared each other to order the rattlesnack salad and almost always got "Elizabeth Taylor's" chocolate truffles buried in whipped cream for dessert. Nice memories there.

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Arlington, Va.: Re the Cayman Islands: my husband I just vacationed there in December. Cheap is not that easy to do in the Caymans, especially with the exchange rate.

That said - we did love the sushi place at the Hyatt Hotel. Very good sushi and tapas style Japanese food. We also loved the Grand Old House - but make sure and sit outside! We liked Hemingways also at the Hyatt.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for piping up.

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Whats good for V-Day?: Get takeout from Five Guys and use the fancy china.

Tom Sietsema: Not a bad idea!

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Rehearsal Dinner options...: Logan Tavern expanded its space a couple of months ago and would be a good option for a moderately-priced rehearsal dinner.

Tom Sietsema: Love the space. The food? Not so much.

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Mayflower hotel area: Hi Tom,

My husband and I will be at an event in the Mayflower tomorrow. We will be having cocktails there with others and don't know when we will be able to leave - or even if there will be heavy appetizers. If we want to stop someplace afterwards in the area, is there anyplace we could go without a reservation? I know it all too well it is Valentines day! But we aren't fussy and don't need someplace upscale. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: The bar at Spezie would be fun. So would the chance to explore a new "rustic" French restaurant -- Ici, in the nearby Sofitel.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

You should encourage people to try the bulgogi stand at 14th and L. It's as tasty as the Korean food I ate when I lived in Korea, you can't beat the price for the amount of food you receive, and it's a great change from normal lunch fare in downtown DC. Let's keep them in business!

Tom Sietsema: Actually, I HAVE encouraged folks to try out the family-run operation, whose menu has expanded since my original visit.

washingtonpost.com: Savoring the Unexpected.

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Arlington, Va.: Tom, What happened to your anticpated postcard on Rome. I'll be traveling there next month and am looking for suggestions for moderately priced dining where they won't mind my 7 year old! Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: My Postcard from Rome is now set for March 2. Can you wait until then?

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A bunch of side dishes thrown on a plate doesn't cut it. : But you know what? Sometimes that's my favorite part about being vegetarian. I can get my own little version of "tapas" except that it's potatoes and asparagus and mushroom caps and...

Tom Sietsema: OK. But judging from my mail from people who don't eat meat (I hear from a LOT of vegetarians), you are in the minority. Most of your group would also like to see MULTIPLE options available to them.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hey Tom it's Todd, to the person looking for the recipe for the Sweet Basil please pass on my e-mail address to them Toddthrasher@restauranteve.com. The recipe is a bit complicated but I would be more than happy to guide them through the process.

Tom Sietsema: To the rescue! Thanks, Todd.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I wanted to write in to share an experience I had at Indique on Friday night. It was the first time in my life that I finally understood why people get so worked up about kids being brought to adult restaurants. A friend and I were having dinner on the second floor, and shortly before 7 we heard someone with a nasty cough (think the worst bronchitis you have heard) downstairs. (For those who haven't been to Indique, the first floor area is open, so the noise travels). Several people around us were looking around to see where the cough was coming from. A few minutes later, a family of four was seated a couple of tables away from us -- two parents, a year-old boy and a three or four year-old girl with a bad cough. The boy was crying and throwing things, the girl kept coughing, louder and louder, and the father kept loudly complimenting the girl on "getting it out." Everyone at the tables around us looked as disgusted as I felt, yet the parents did nothing to stem the loud noises coming from their table, or even give an apologetic look as their neighbors made repeated eye contact. Suddenly our evening was transformed from a nice dinner in an upscale restaurant to a trip to a Chuck E Cheese atmosphere.

My friend and I decided to cut short our dinner and have dessert and drinks elsewhere. We told the host on the way out, who said he would look in to it. I don't blame the restaurant -- I'm sure that the host's hands were tied, even if he had noticed the cough at the outset. Short of declaring it a public health emergency, I doubt that the restaurant could have refused access to this family. This is obviously the product of the parents' poor judgment, and a lesson that some people remain clueless.

Tom Sietsema: That's a really touchy situation.

Was the girl coughing without covering her mouth? THAT would have been truly disgusting, and cause for intervention. As in: "I'm sorry to intrude, but there are people around you who worry about getting sick. Could you please use a handkerchief?" (Easier said than done, I realize ...)

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better than 5 guys on china: popeye's on china (or, out of the box). it's been our v-day tradition for 4 years now.

Tom Sietsema: No arguement from this guy!

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rehearsal dinner seeker: we had our rehearsal dinner at spezie this past fall, right after the renovations. our guests are still raving. while they didn't have a private room large enough to accommodate all of us, the dining room is well sectioned and we certainly felt as if we had our own space.

Tom Sietsema: Great idea. Thanks.

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Special Requests: Hi Tom,

If you order from a tasting menu, is it ok to ask them to leave a particular ingredient out or are you just supposed to take what is given?

Tom Sietsema: Often, you'll be asked at the time you order a tasting menu. But it's always smart, if you have a distate or allergy, to make that fact known over the phone and again when you show up.

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Courthouse, Va.: Tom, sorry odd question for you. Have you had the burritos at whole foods? what's your favorite thing at WF?

Tom Sietsema: I haven't had Whole Paycheck's burritos, but I can vouch for the store's homey take-out soups.

Speaking of the organically-minded establishment, does anyone besides me feel like the place is now little different from Safeway or Giant, that it's sort of lost its way?

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Fish fan: Tom - any sign that the crudo craze (NY, LA, elsewhere) is catching on here? Any suggestions as to where to find it? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Gosh, there are lots of places to try crudo here. Proof is one source. Hook is another.

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Washington, D.C.: I was not going to write but this is still bothering me a few weeks later. During RW, I went with my husband to Notti Bianchi. While the pasta was good, my first and second course were both oversalted and tasted like a very salty chicken broth. The first course was supposed to be duck and tagliatelle. I SWEAR it was chicken and not duck, based on texture, color, and taste. My second course was veal in agnolotti. ALSO tasted like salty chicken! I eat out very frequently and enjoy nearly all meats, meaning, I am well aware of how they taste. Desserts were bland, especially the pear sorbet they were pushing, which tasted more like soap than a pear. I did put this on the comment card they gave us. The pasta was perfectly cooked but I have no other praises. Has anyone else had this experience there????

Tom Sietsema: I'm really sorry to hear that, because my last meal there was terrific (well, except for the humble dining room). Has anyone else experienced anything negative, food-wise?

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Silver Spring, Md.: My husband and I would like to thank you for your recent Postcard from Santa Fe sugggestion. We thoroughly enjoyed La Boca, and consider it one of the highlights of this past weekend's trip to New Mexico. We ordered a variety of four small plates, each one more delicious and interesting than the next. As my husband put it, compared to La Boca, Jaleo is the McDonalds of tapas.

On a less positive note...what's the big deal about David Craig's in Bethesda? Based on your recent recommendation to a chatter looking for a special occasion restaurant in Bethesda, we took another couple there last week to celebrate their birthdays. We couldn't have been more disappointed. Ambiance was totally lacking, and there was nothing at all noteworthy about anything we ordered. There's no excuse for servicing lukewarm, undercooked risotto. So, while you were right on target with La Boca (thank you!), we're still wondering why David Craig's gets such a positive review. Most of the time, we enjoy your recommendations, so thanks for all you do to help with our dining choices.

Tom Sietsema: I'm glad I was (partially) helpful. I enjoyed La Boca in Santa Fe a lot, but I wouldn't rate it above Jaleo here in Washington.

You're right about the decor at David Craig -- it's pretty spare -- but the food I've had there has been good-to-excellent since the small restaurant opened. The chef's pastas and meats are particularly impressive.

Still, I'm glad to have the feedback from readers. It's not easy "baby-sitting" 7,000 places to eat on my own.

washingtonpost.com: Postcard From Tom: Santa Fe and Review of David Craig.

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Farragut RE: Vegetarian options: If anyone is aware of the demand of vegetarian options, it's the restaurantuers themselves.

It's obvious that these options are not available because there is not enough demand for it. Simple economics. If more wanted it, then it would be received.

Everyone wants something, but let's remember that the owners are running a business, and you better believe if demand was high, they would provide.

Tom Sietsema: Really? Do some of us *really* want as much charcuterie as is out there right now? I'm getting mighty tired of all those boards and shaved meats these days. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if McDonald's starts offering a happy meal of cured meats.

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Caymans: The Wharf and Pappagallo were favorites on all 3 of my trips to Grand Cayman. It's been a few years though.

Tom Sietsema: Merci

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I was looking around for Mediterranean fare in DC and stumbled upon Neyla. There are a few recent, positive reader comments, but your review is from 2001. Have you been there anytime recently?

Tom Sietsema: I have not been to Neyla in years. But a Lebanese friend of mine, whose taste I trust, counts the Georgetown restaurants as one of his picks.

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Alexandria, Va.: Dear Tom,

I love your column, it's the first thing I turn to in the magazine on Sunday. I never thought something would bother me enough to feel compelled to write, but here goes, this has happened to me at least ten times, the last was the final straw for me. After placing my napkin on my lap and enjoying my meal, I have been horrified to look down and be covered in tiny balls of white lint from the napkin. I haved shrugged it off as no big deal many times, and sometimes tried to wipe it off with water. This happened to me last week, I was wearing a brand new black velvet shirt and black pants and had plans to go somewhere for the rest of evening. To their credit the restaurant provided me with a lint roller, after I asked for tape. I am so fed up that I am making a mental note to ask for a paper napkin any time I go out.

However this brings up a question, my sister heard from a waitress that the reason this is happening is because the restaurants are treating the napkins with a stain protector, does this mean we are wiping chemicals on our hands and mouths when we use them, and then possibly ingesting the chemicals? I hope you can address this and get the word out to the restaurants.

Tom Sietsema: Not to make light of your problem, dear reader, but you say you were "horrified" to find lint on your pants? I can think of a lot of things to be horrified about -- a looming recession, the war in Iraq, the situation in Africa, the lack of proper health care in this country -- but a lint build-up on my lap is not one of them.

(Tom steps off his soap box.)

I do not know how restaurants launder their napkins, but I'll throw this question out to the restaurateurs in the crowd and hope for a response (if not today, next Wednesday). Meanwhile, you might consider wearing lighter clothing or patronizing restaurants that give diners the choice of white or black napkins. Zola in Penn Quarter is one such place.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom -- Please dig into your bag of dining wisdom and help this DC girl find a place to take her friends during their 4 hour layover at Dulles as they travel from San Francisco to Rio. Obviously, proximity to the airport is a huge plus, and I don't want to get lost in a maze of suburban streets. They'll be with their 14 year old daughter who possesses unknown food tastes, but probably nothing too spicy as they have a long flight ahead of them. Thanks so much!

Tom Sietsema: This reminds me that I need to find another suggestion, but the restaurant I can always count on near Dulles is Thai Basil, on Lee Jackson Memorial Highway. There's something for every taste on the menu there.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Thai Basil.

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Bethesda, Md.: When the weather dips into the freezing, what are your favorite dishes in the area?

Personally, I look forward to the chestut soup at Monmartre and the curry noodle bowl at Raku when I need to warm up.

Tom Sietsema: Here's an example of the kind of post I'd like to se more often, a chance to learn from the group's vast experience and expertise.

Off the top of my head, based on recent restaurant experiences, I'd put on my cold-weather list the hot chocolate at Taqueria Nacional on the Hill; buckwheat tagliatelle with potato, Swiss chard and fontina cheese at Spezie downtown; shrimp and grits at Grapeseed in Bethesda; matzoh ball soup at the new Hudson Restaurant & Lounge in the West End; osso buco and gremolata over house-made tagliatelle at Nicaro in Silver Spring; and venison served with little pasta twists of braised venison and foie gras at Mio, which I'm reviewing in the Post Magazine this Sunday.

Is that my stomach growling?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

To the person looking for 20-30 people private dining - would definitely try Indique Heights at chevy chase - Beautiful private rooms!

Tom Sietsema: And another tip!

That's all for today, folks. See you next Wednesday. Have a delicious weekend.

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