Ask Tom
Tom Talks Shop

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, February 27, 2008 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Tom Sietsema: Happy Wednesday, everyone. I'm a little bleery from a long and late dinner last night -- don't ask, you'll find out soon enough -- but nevertheless happy to be at my home computer to take your arrows, your praise, your questions and your thoughts.

But first. Is it just me or have restaurants become really, really noisy of late? It seems most of the new places in particular are one big aural assault. Please share your thoughts with me: Do you like buzz? Do you hate it? Your response might end up in print. Chime away.

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Good afternoon Tom : Hope that this e-mail finds you well. I'm writing to follow-up with the comments posted on your chat yesterday involving an unwelcome visitor in our dining room. We at Pure Hospitality take the responsibility of serving safe food very seriously. The event as described the participant in your chat was a very unfortunate incident, and one that we are aware of and working actively to eliminate. We have been aware of this situation and have pest control on premise at least once a week, if not more, until the problem has been rectified.

Unfortunately due to construction at both businesses flanking Hook, there have been some occurrences lately. Both the Saloun to our east, and Georgetown Bagelry to our west are both old buildings and undergoing full demolition projects.

Our wait staff is aware of this issue and in the event that a visitation should occur, the staff knows to explain the situation and ensure the guest that this is a limited problem and one we are actively seeking to correct. I agree with the contributor that a manager should have visited the table, and that is an admitted fault on our part. I believe in our sanitation practices strongly enough that I put our kitchen and actions on display for all to see. It is unfortunate that this incident was not handled properly at the time of its occurrence. I would personally like to extend my apologies to that guest and their party.

As per your question about what the appropriate response is, I believe it is a tough situation. Despite all of our best practices and good intentions, it is unfortunate that guest should have to experience this in our place of hospitality. In this event, if dessert or a glass of champagne would help to assuage a guest's discomfort, it is certainly appropriate.

Speaking of demolition, Georgetown Bagelry & Pizzeria is now closed, but we have found a new location up the street at 1438 Wisconsin Ave, which means that Tackle Box is now in full swing. We are very much looking forward to its upcoming opening. We've already started testing out the lobster pots to-go -- man are they going to be good!

Hope you can stay warm with the impending white, snowy doom.

Be well,

barton

barton seaver

executive chef

Hook Restaurant

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the response (to last Wednesday's chat) and the update, chef.

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Takoma Park, Md.: I thought your article on tasting menus was interesting, thoughtful and fair but I would say part of your perspective is that you eat out WAY more than most of us. I love Komi and so does my wife but, for us, it's primarily for special occasions (we celebrated our engagement there, for example). I wouldn't want to do it every week for sure.

Tom Sietsema: You raise a great point there. I thought about that as I wrote the piece -- I spend a whopping 40 hours a week SITTING AT A TABLE, after all -- but even I don't dine at Komi (or Citronelle or CityZen or Eve or the Inn) more than three times a year. So it isn't as if I'm this jaded scribe who would rather be home watching "Cops" or eating a salad or whatever.

The reality is, I LOVE going out most nights. I ENJOY seeing what's playing on menus around the city. I KNOW I have the best job at the paper. I also have enormous respect for the chefs whose work I discussed in today's article, but I think their handiwork is sometimes lost in the sheer volume or length of their tasting menus.

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Centreville, Va.: One to add to the series of questionable remarks from a server...my fiancee and I were dining out at a (chain) Mexican restaurant. We both had ordered platter dinners with various components. When he ordered his, I heard him specify that he wanted a beef taco, but didn't hear him specify whether he wanted a soft or crispy taco. I reminded him to do so, he pointed out he had in fact ordered a crispy beef taco, and the server turns to me and says "It's true. I can't believe you wasted a NAG on that! "

I can't believe it didn't occur to him I was paying and therefore responsible for his tip!!

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the good laugh.

Note to servers: Best to keep the wise cracks to yourselves, because you never know how they might go down. (Although this chatter appears to have a healthy sense of humor.)

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom,

I was excited to read your review on Me Jana. I went there when it first opened and loved the food. Question: is it okay to order a few of the smaller dishes (like tappas) instead of ordering one entree? I would like to try the variety, but I wasn't sure if this would be a faux pas. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Absolutely! Two or three of the small plates would make a perfect-size meal for most people. And those mezze are more interesting than the entrees, in my humble opinion.

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Arlington, Va.: Hello Tom - had an experience at Spezie and was wondering if it just a service style.

I went for dinner Sat night - just me. I sat at the bar at 7 and I was the only person there. There were a few people at tables in the dining room and a few more trickled in. I ordered a glass of wine and was never approached by the bartender again until I got his attention and asked for the check 40 minutes later.

After about 20 minutes I thought I would just ask for a table for dinner, and after about 30 minutes I just wasn't in the mood. I just wasn't confident that I would receive good service if I stayed. I sat at a bar in a restaurant for 40 minutes and was not offered a menu.?!?

I was going to tell the manager (owner?) on my way out -- he had noticed me earlier and nodded - but he was helping some ladies coming in with their coats and I didn't want to say anything in front of them. I enjoy dining solo and I usually enjoy it more at the bar, and I am not saying I won't go back, but I guess when I go to Spezie I will not go alone.

Tom Sietsema: Who are you? Caspar the Friendly Ghost?

There's no excuse for not being acknowledged for 40 minutes. Had I been you, I would have strolled over to the host stand during that time and explained your predicament to the manager.

If my reader feedback is an indication, service at Spezie needs some fine-tuning. Heck, I got inferior service there as well! Too bad. Cesare Lanfranci's food deserves better.

washingtonpost.com: Review: Spezie

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Cleveland Park: Tom,

This might be a silly question, but when tasting the wine the waiter pours you from the bottle, what are you supposed to say? I usually end up saying "Thank you," or "That's good."

Tom Sietsema: The wine is poured for your approval, so "that's good" or "thank you" are appropriate responses -- unless, of course, the wine is off. Then I typically suggest the server or manager try it themselves.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

Love the chats and am a huge fan! I must have missed this at some point, but I have no idea what happened to Galileo and Roberto Donna? What's the deal and will Galileo ever return?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Roberto Donna is doing casual Italian cooking in Arlington at Bebo Trattoria while the building that formerly housed Galileo (and the much-missed Laboratorio) in Washington is being renovated. I do not have any update on when, or even if, the chef plans to reopen.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom -- A comment and a question. I found your article about tasting menus very interesting because my husband and I just went to Komi on Saturday night. We thought the mezze that started the meal was really, really outstanding, but the pastas and entree we chose were just mediocre. (We eyed our neighbors roasted goat with envy -- it looked fantastic and the waiter's offer to bring more pita to them made us all the more sad!) It was certainly an abundance of food and we really wished we could have stopped at the mezze, not only due to the sheer amount of food, but also because it went downhill after that. It's a shame the tasting menu is the only option there because I imagine people like us would really enjoy a la carte and could definitely afford to go more often.

My question: is there any good dim sum in Chinatown these days? We usually go to China Garden in Rosslyn for dim sum, but hoping for a DC option. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Interesting. My main courses were almost as luscious as what preceded them, but I have this theory that the larger the dish, the easier it is to spot any flaws.

GOOD dim sum in the city? I'm not sure it exists but I'd be happy to share any reader suggestions here.

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Hi Tom:: I'm a mid-twenty something who thinks splurging on dinner is roughly $50/person, drinks included. However, I love, love, love going out to eat. If you had to pick one restaurant in that price range, that will definitely wow me, what would you choose? Any locations fine, Maryland and D.C. preferred. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I had a great meal recently --- take your pick from southern or Belgian dishes -- at the new Marvin on 14th St. NW, near U St. The bistro reminded me very much of the small restaurants I've frequented in Brussels, and the crowd was an encouraging rainbow of faces.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I love your chats, have been reading them for years. I have worked in the industry for years in D.C., and I can't seem to think of a good place for brunch to celebrate my partners 30th birthday. Can you help a clueless server?

Tom Sietsema: The places I tend to gravitate to for the repast --- Cashion's Eat Place, Bombay Club, Tabard Inn -- have yet to disappoint me.

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Braddock Heights, Md.: Hi Tom,

I enjoyed the small part of last week's discussion on food movies as we have a small collection started. Here are some of ours.

"Babette's Feast," of course. "Eat Drink Man Woman" and its Latino remake -- "Tortilla Soup." "The Cook The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover." "A Walk in the Clouds" (mainly a wine movie). "Big Night." "Vatel." "Mostly Martha," which is the original to Catherine Zeta Jones's "No Reservations." "Dinner Rush." "The Wedding Feast." And a fabulous Italian one, "The Story of Boys & Girls." And we can't leave out John Cleese's "Fawlty Towers" now can we. Love to hear from other chatters if there is a "can't miss" that we should add to the collection. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Gosh, I'm getting hungry thinking about the titles in your collection.

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Dupont Circle, D.C.: I have to disagree with your piece on tasting menus. I treat them as events, entertainment, and go only rarely (1-2x a year). I enjoy being able to have a wide range of tastes and flavors and love the little surprises. It's not only a matter of experiencing the abilities a chef, but it's an adventure!! I can completely understand tasting menu burnout but if you treat it less like a regular dinner and more of a special treat, then it's something to look forward to, not bear through. What kind of person complains their way through a Komi dinner? Just sounds unthankful to me. The food there is phenomenal.

washingtonpost.com: Just Too Much (Post, Feb. 27)

Tom Sietsema: I agree: the food is mostly outstanding. And the polished service and spare setting are very much to my taste. In other words, I "get" Komi and its intentions.

But as I pointed out, all the fine points and niceties get lost in the parade of dishes. I would have been happy to have called it a night with the last hors d'oeuvre, and so would some big guns I know. I interviewed a number of foodsters, some of whom would not agree to go on record for fear of losing their status at Komi, who feel the same way. Less could be much, much more.

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Washington, D.C.: Tonight I ordered dinner at 6:55 p.m. from Mei-Wah in D.C. ... at 8:05, after calling to see where my food was, I was told the driver had been in an accident, but would still deliver my food ... I asked Mei-Wah if I would get a discount, since my food (which ended up being delivered at 8:35) was 100 minutes late and by that time stone cold...Mei-Wah offered to either make new food (with estimated delivery at 9:15) or cancel the order, but would rather throw away the food than deliver it at a discount for the late delivery...I realize that the driver shouldn't be penalized, but after waiting 100 minutes for cold food, don't you think I deserve a discount?

Tom Sietsema: While I'm sympathetic to the delivery guy's plight -- yes, you deserved a discount. How much? I'd say 20 percent would have been fair.

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hypothetically: If you were crushed for time and had to get drive-through, where would you go and what would you get?

Tom Sietsema: This isn't hypothetical: I've done drive-through at Popeye's before, for the obvious (and biscuits and coleslaw). The question is easy; there aren't many drive-throughs in the District.

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Central: Tom! Did you see that Central made it to the NY Times Top Ten list of non-NY restaurants? Now its really going to be impossible to get a reservation there...

Tom Sietsema: From DC to NY: "Thanks a lot, Frank!"

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Ballston: Tom,

Have you been to Big Buns in the plaza right off the Ballston metro? It's fantastic. I'm not associated with this new burger joint at all, but I selfishly want it to succeed, because its darn good!

Tom Sietsema: Big Buns -- you have to love the name! (I've not been yet.)

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re: $50 dinner: Don't forget the bar menu at Palena. In my opinion, one of the best deals in town.

Tom Sietsema: Right. The trouble there is, the cocktails are so good, I tend to splurge. So it may or may not fall into the 50-or-under category for some of us.

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washingtonpost.com: Review: Palena

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Washington, D.C.: Tom: I'm a longtime watcher of this chat -- it's a highlight of my Wednesday.

My wife and I will be traveling to Egypt in April -- any recommendations on good places to eat?

Tom Sietsema: That's a part of the world I don't know, but chances are good, someone here might have some pointers. Right, gang?

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PICK ME!: Since we all agree to not use THOSE words, could we be foodsters and veggers?

Tom Sietsema: I've actually used the term foodsters before, online as I recall. Veggers has a nice ring to it. But I wonder what Webster's would have to say about the descriptors?

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Dupont: The last few times I've written in it's been to complain, so I thought maybe I'd compliment a place for once. Went to Mio last weekend and thought the food was lovely. We had the tasting menu (horrors! :) and while every thing was quite good, the standout was an off-the-menu dish of pasta with prawns. It was fabulous. Very rich and shrimp-y without being overwhelming.

On a related note, do you think service in D.C. has gotten better lately? When I first moved here about two years ago I was surprised at the poor general level of service but recent restaurant visits have overall been much better.

Tom Sietsema: You know what's funny? I don't know a single restaurant critic who thinks the service in his or her market is great. Washington is certainly better than it was even a few years ago, and a few places, including Mio, excel in pampering and attention to detail. But outstanding servers are few in number and hard to keep.

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Clifton, Va.: If Roberto Donna does return to D.C., he would be best off if most of his front of the house staff drowned while swimming across the Potomac. I have gotten better service at Olive Garden!

Tom Sietsema: That's a tad harsh, but I know what you mean. The chef really needs to get a handle on his troops in the dining room.

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Steak sauce: Do you ever use A1 sauce, or ask for it in an upscale steakhouse just to see the reaction?

Tom Sietsema: I'm from beef country, where steak sauce was frowned upon. Why mask the savor of a great slab of meat? Around here, the better restaurants MAKE their own "A-1."

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Anonymous: Tom,

The delivery question made me think of my own -- do you have any suggestion as to what to tip a delivery person? I'm thinking, Chinese/Thai/Pizza: Ten percent? Fifteen percent?

Tom Sietsema: It really depends on the weather, the size of the order, and the time the food took to reach me. What say the chatters?

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Metro Center: The previous poster's food movie list is missing "Tampopo."

Tom Sietsema: I listed Tampopo last week. I think his/her titles are fresh ones.

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Another food movie: For dessert: "Chocolat."

Tom Sietsema: Even though I prefer butterscotch and caramel to chocolate.

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22041: James Beard Nominations? Tom I see that the long list of nominees are out, I never knew there was a long list. Where does it go from here and how does the voting work. Is there anyone you are really happy to see on that list?

Tom Sietsema: The initial list of candidates has 20 names per award category; that ballot is in the process of being voted on now, by a select group of regional judges, former winners, etc.

Another slate, with five nominees, will appear and be voted on this spring.

I'm ALWAYS happy to see Washington get the attention it deserves.

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I hate noise: THANK you for bringing up something that's been bothering me for years -- the increased noise in restaurants. I'm not just talking about those ubiquitous chains with their warehouse construction where everything echoes; it's everywhere, it seems. And I hate it! I hate having to shout at the person next to me, and not to be able to communicate without everyone at surrounding tables being aware of everything I say. Yet restaurateurs, and in some cases restaurant critics! defend the noise as "exciting," "energetic" etc. and insist that young people like it. I bet not all of them do, and even if they do, is that a reason to alienate such a large segment of the dining population?

Tom Sietsema: If you read me carefully, you'll note I make mention of noise with some frequency in my columns. Noise is my readers' number one restaurant complaint, in fact.

(Can you please share your name and contact info with me, by sending the details to me at asktom@washpost.com? Thanks.)

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Do your co-workers at The Post fight over the opportunity to be your guest at meals?

Tom Sietsema: I've not noticed any black eyes or scratch marks among my colleagues, some of whom help make up my group of 20 or so die-hard dining companions.

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Egypt: Um, where? It's a big country. From a list I've been assembling from others for a potential trip there, in Cairo (assuming it's like substituting "France" for "Paris"), Alfie Bey and anything in the bazaar have come multiply recommended.

Tom Sietsema: I should have added "where" there. Thanks

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Bethesda, Md.: When you take friends as dining companions while on the job, does The Post cover their tab too? If yes, how can I befriend a food critic?

Tom Sietsema: My employer pays for all meals and services, but I treat the money as if it were my own. In other words, I'm not ordering big deal wines or leaving 50 percent tips.

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Uptight lately??: Wow late food due to driver being in an accident and the "nag" comment...seems like D.C. is a LOT more uptight than I thought. I get it, your food was late, but come on, have a little sympathy, luckily the drive was not seriously hurt. And the nag comment...it was a joke, laugh.

Tom Sietsema: I figure the delivery guy was in a minor scrape -- he ended up bringing the order, after all -- and the "nagger" seemed to appreciate the humor in the server's aside.

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I like noisy places. . .: I can dine out with my infant and never get dirty looks for the occasional squawk or utensil banging.

Tom Sietsema: Looking at the glass half-full!

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noise: Yes yes yes it is too noisy. The noise levels don't make me feel lively or youthful, they make me shout and keep asking "What?" I'm 34 but recently I have been seeking out "oldster" restaurants for the noise levels alone. Would much prefer a younger vibe at lower decibels, if such a thing existed!

Tom Sietsema: We should start a "quiet" list ....

(Chatter, please identify yourself via asktom@washpost.com)

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Anonymous: Tom -- I recently ate in a restaurant. Which one is unimportant. What is important is that upon entering, I had already made up my mind to be a spoiled brat and to have a terrible time. It worked. My complaints: First, there were other human beings eating. THEY WERE EATING TOM! They made noise as they ate. I couldn't believe it. Second, the server addressed me and others in my party as "you." Can you believe the audacity? I was stunned. To presume to speak to a guest in such a manner? Third, when my chocolate dessert arrived, it was too small and insufficiently chocolaty. I asked to be comped for another, larger, more chocolaty dessert. When that arrived, it was too large and too chocolaty. I asked to be comped. The restaurant refused. THEY REFUSED!!! To top things off, when I got home I realized I had forgotten to loot the matches and mints at the doorway on the way out. Should I call a lawyer?

Tom Sietsema: I just spit up my coffee from laughing (gross image but ALMOST true). You chatters crack me up!

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Noise in Restaurants: I am thankful that we are FINALLY getting restaurants with some buzz. I find DC restaurants to be very quiet, and not enjoyable for people in their 20s who like a little atmosphere. We have an abundance of cozy intimate spots, lets bring on some more places with some buzz!

Tom Sietsema: You, too, should identify yourself, via my work email. (It might result in a dinner invite, if you dare eat with a stranger!)

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Vienna, Va.: Hi Tom, enjoy your columns and appreciate your attention to details beyond the taste of food to describe the entire experience. I'm curious on your thoughts related to visually seeing restaurant employees taking smoking breaks outside of their establishments. I see this increasingly if a parking lot has a view of the "smoking spot" or sometimes just outside the main entrance -- seeing employees (front line and back line) smoking. I find it disgusting visually and makes me wonder about the hygiene and quality of service if that type of behavior is allowed. What are your thoughts on seeing employees smoking outside of restaurants? Do executives of these establishments realize what impact it has on the customer experience?

Tom Sietsema: I had a waiter the other night who reeked of cigarette smoke at the table. Ew! At a minimum, I think smoker-waiters should wash their hands and gargle when they come in from a puff session.

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Belgrade, Serbia: Dear Tom,

Last week, a chatter described himself as "an enthusiastic eater and cooker of food" - what a great expression! I propose we banish "foodie" forever and adopt the acronym EEACOF.

I've never liked the term foodie, for what it's worth. It always conjured a person who was impossibly fussy in restaurants, and that you would never want to invite over to eat because they were so overly particular about food. But an EEOCOF now that sounds like someone who would be fun to eat out with or invite to dinner!

Tom Sietsema: Hello, Serbia! One of the many things I enjoy about this chat is the chance to talk to the whole world now and then.

EEOCOF. It sounds like a very serious and very important government organization. You must have spent some time in Washington -- a.k.a Acronym City -- to come up with that one!

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to The Inn at Little Washington this weekend for my girlfriend's birthday. I was wondering whether it was possible to request a "tour" of the kitchen after dinner. We dine at 8:30 p.m., so after we're done, I thought things may have slowed down enough for this request not to be too disruptive. If such a request is even a teensy bit out of line, I won't even explore the possibility. I've just read in some online bulletin boards that some patrons have received tours.

Tom Sietsema: Touring the kitchen is the best way to conclude a meal at the Inn, and it's highly likely that your server will invite you to do so after the check is presented. I don't know what hours Patrick O'Connell keeps, but the star chef is often there for you to chit-chat with. If your server doesn't ask if you want to see the stage set of a kitchen -- you most definitely should make the request.

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Nashville: Please advise the amount one should tip when dining in a breakfast buffet situation? Our server brought us drinks and a check. Thanks

Tom Sietsema: Ten percent is fine, if that's indeed the only service you received. (Buffet workers tell me a lot of effort sometimes goes on behind the scenes.)

That's a wrap for today, kids. Thanks for showing up. See you next week!

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