Goss's Garage

Pat Goss has worked on cars for more than 40 years. He owns a car repair company that bears his name, has authored numerous books on auto maintenance, and makes weekly appearances on Motorweek, a PBS television program.

He visits right here once a month to answer questions about fixing your car.

For more auto advice and industry news, visit our Cars section.

The transcript follows below.

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Ignition cylinder problems: I am having a problem with my 2007 Hyundai Elantra: The ignition key tends to grate against something (the tumblers?) between ACC and LOCK. I have no trouble inserting and the key and starting the key -- the problem always occurs when I turn the car off and remove the key. Something (presumably the tumblers) is "grabbing" onto the key when I pull it out. Now, here's the oddity: I had the same problem with my 1996 Saturn, although the problem developed when the car was about 10 years old, not when it was 18 months! Other than replacing the ignition cylinder (which did NOT work with the Saturn), what can I do? Am I the source of this problem, given that it's happened in both my cars?

Pat Goss: You are not the source of the problem unless you have a huge amount of keys and junk on your car key ring. Usually the problem is a misadjusted brake shifter interlock. Adjustment of the interlock normally takes care of the problem.

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Vancouver, Wash.: What a great chat! What indicates to you that a starter needs replacement? I have an older MB and on cold mornings the starter spins but does not engage. Second attempt always is successful. No grinding sounds (yet).

Pat Goss: Those symtoms suggest you need a new starter drive. The starter drive is the clutch protected gear assembly on the starter that engages the flywheel. In your case the clutch is bad. So replacement of the starter drive is all that is needed --- if you can find anyone who knows what a starter drive is!

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Glover Park, D.C.: Pat, you often mention the importance of PCV system maintenance. I have a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T with 35,000 miles on it. I'm having a host of preventive services done on it, but the VW dealer says this engine does not have a PCV valve. Is this true? If so, what can I do to address the sludge problems this engine supposedly has? BTW I use synthetic oil and change between 3 and 5K intervals. Thanks.

Pat Goss: That may be true but it does have a crankcase breather system and all the components in that breather system must work properly and be clean. We use the term PCV as a generic way of referring to the breather system.

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Woodbridge, Va.: It used to be you changed your motor oil every 3,000 miles or three months which ever occured first. Does this still apply? The reason I ask is I have an automobile which I drive about 7,000 miles a year and that means I average 3500 miles ever 6 months. Should I change the oil every 3 months or wait until 3,000 miles?

Pat Goss: You are giving your car some of the hardest use it could possibly get so the three month rule would be best but never more than six months under such harsh conditions.

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Manassas, Va.: Pat, my '95 Toyota Avalon, with 182,000 miles, runs sweetly, and is due for a timing belt replacement, and the dealer suggests replacing the water pump and cam seals. I've had a re-built steering rack, new struts all around, and new front rotors. We LOVE this car, but are wondering if we should commit the amount of money necessary for the aforementioned repairs... Thanks.

Pat Goss: That depends on the actual overall condition of the car. I would have a bumper to bumper evaluation done on the car and see what else, if anything, is weak and on its way out. Then base the decision on known and possible up-coming repairs.

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Woodbridge, Va.: Hi Mr. Goss, my 2003 SUV is making a rattling noise when I press the gas pedal. Do you know what that could mean?

Pat Goss: There are lots of possibilities ranging from poor gas, to non-functioning EGR system, to non-functioning knock sensors, to things like loose heat shields on the exhaust. It should be checked right away because if it is engine related it could cause severe damage in very little time.

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Washington, D.C.: Pat, thanks for taking my question. I have a 95 Mazda MX-6 that needs a new muffler. The noise is somewhat annoying, but I don't drive that much, and when I do, it's mainly just around town. Are there any problems to driving around with a broken and noisy muffler? I'd rather not repair it, considering the age of the car, and the fact I've been quoted repair costs ranging from $300 to $700.

Pat Goss: There is always danger in the form of deadly carbon monoxide entering the car. Sorry!

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Capitol Hill: Dear Goss, I'm leaving D.C. this fall for the suburban sprawl of grad school. I'm looking to buy a used sedan (2 or 4 door), less than 60K miles, and under $10K. I need this car to last about 4-5 years. Do any models immediately come to mind?

Pat Goss: Not really. All the trusted names could be wise choices but the thing to remember is a used car is no better than the maintenance it has received and how hard or gently it has been used. I would start looking at cars that fit your requirements without a lot of emphasis on brand. I would be much more concerned with vehicle history and condition at the time of purchase. So that means a trip to a quality shop for a bumper to bumper evaluation before you give up any money. In other words buy condition not brand name.

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Arlington, Va.: Pat, I am going to purchase a pickup soon. For the bedliner, what do you recommend, a spray-on or the molded insert type? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Spray on is the best performing type but depending on how long you plan on keeping the truck it could be a detriment. If you don't want to keep it but three or four years a spray on liner may either enhance the value of the truck or if the buyer (including a dealer) doesn't like spary on, detract from its value.

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Annandale, Va.: Hi Pat, a friend of mine has an 06 Honda Accord in good shape. However, for some reason, the design of the seats seem to cause her pain and become very uncomfortable on longer trips. It's to the point where she wants to trade in her car for a different make and model. I suggested looking into just replacing the drivers seat as a cheaper option, but don't know if this is a viable solution, where to go to have the service performed, and how much to expect to pay. Can you help? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Check with local upper end automotive upholstery shops. They can sometimes reconfigure the foam in the seat for better support. And you're right much it is much cheaper.

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Annandale, Va.: Hi Pat,

I would appreciate your opinion on "undercoating" and "paint protector" offered by dealerships with a new car purchase. Good preventative maintenance, or hogwash?

Pat Goss: Great for the dealer not so much for the purchaser. But --- there could be real value in such services. The value however, is not in what it does for the car because that doesn't amount to anything you couldn't do yourself in an hour or two for under thirty dollars. The value, if there is any, is in the fine print in the warranty. Read the warranty very carefully making sure you uderstand all that's covered and even more important what isn't covered. If you decide there is value in the warranty NEGOTIATE the price to around $300 for all three.

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Pittsburgh, Pa.: Pat, I own a 2001 Saturn L200, that I have taken to the dealer and independent mechanics for a clunk that is only heard when turning left. The dealer tells be it is something in the front end and not to worry about it. Well it seems to me that the clunk is now getting louder and louder when I make left turns. I have had several mechanics look at it and one told me it is just the Saturn clunk. I have replace tie rods, brakes and even took every single item out of the glove box and trunk it still makes the noise. Any idea what mechniclly it might be? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Check ball joints, axles, control arms and bushings, and frame cradle mounting bolts and bushings. It could be dangerous. I love the statement "I don't know what it is but it's nothing to worry about." Excuse me! If you don't know what it is how can you possibly know it isn't dangerous --- duhhhhhhhhh!

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Wethersfield, Conn.: Dear Mr. Goss, I have a 94 Olds 88 with @ 140,000 miles. Other than a small, perpetual oil leak from the oil pan gasket, the car has been very reliable. About 4 or 5 years ago the car developed a shudder anytime the transmission engages into overdrive at @ 45-50mph. 55mph and above or using very light throttle pressure it would disappear. It is very pronounced at that speed going up a hill or using moderate to heavy throttle. I have been told that this is either a transmission problem (torque converter) or electrical (ignition maybe). It has not affected other parts of the car and has not gotten better or worse since it started. What could be causing this? Is there anyway to determine the cause without changing major components? Have you experienced a similar problem with similar GM vehicles? Since I have lived with issue for so long can I ignore it? My dealer has been of no help. I regularly service the car myself according to the manual. Thanks.

Pat Goss: I experience it all the time. Based on your description it sounds like an ignition problem and the chronic igniton problems with that car were igniton coils and spark plug wires. Both can be checked without replacing anything in about ten minutes using an oscilloscope.

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Derwood, Md.: In the past you have recommended fluid flushes for cooling systems and transmissions every 2 years or 25,000 miles. Does this still apply to the new cars that have cooling systems with 100,000 mile collent and transmission fluids?

Pat Goss: Coolant should be checked for condition every six months and flushed as needed which may be two years or even less. The long life coolants are designed to last uo to -- miles or -- years whichever comes first. They are NOT however GUARANTEED to last that long.

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Louisville, Ky.: Hi Pat, I have enjoyed your appearances on Motorweek for many years. I have a 95 Nissan 200SX SER with 150k miles. Whenever it rains heavily, I get a lot of water only on the passenger side floor, regardless whether the car was driven in the rain or not! There are no signs of water coming in the windows or sunroof and the seals seem fine. I recently repaired the windshield wipers and wonder if that has anything to do with it, although I made sure to get the weather stripping put back in. Any ideas? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Some windshield wiper transmissions have seals that can go bad but the most likely souce is in the door. If the plastic vapor barrier is missing, the mirror seal is damaged, or the drain holes in the bottom of the door are clogged water will fill the bottom of the door and spill over onto the floor. Very common.

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Clifton, Va.: Pat, recaro seats or other repalcement seats would have been an option for Accord driver however, with side airbags and the sensors in the seats it is very difficult if not impossible to replace airbags in newer cars. Result will be a SRS light on constantly and the airbags may or may not deploy correctly. Used to be you bought a Recaro and seat adapter. Unbolted old seat and installed new seat.

Pat Goss: We no longer recommend aftermarket seats unless they are a direct fit due to safety reasons. They are great for custom cars, race cars and off road vehicles but not for a modern street driven vehicle with an integrated safety system. Thanks for the idea though.

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RE: Uncomfortable Seat: Thanks for answering my question and providing an option to solve the issue. As a follow-up, if the upholstery shop is unable to solve the problem, or if that fix does not make any detectable difference, is a full seat replacement an option? If so, who would perform this service and how much should she expect to pay? Thanks again!

Pat Goss: Most legitimate shops will not assume the laibility of a seat conversion due to the integrated safety systems on modern cars. Sorry!

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Ashburn, Va.: I own a 1995 Ford Ranger with 403K miles. Mechanic told me my AC compressor was shot and he didnt recommend replacing it. The berrings are shot and it occasionaly makes noise: Can I bypass the compressor so as to keep driving my truck? (Engine and trans are in good shape)

Pat Goss: Sure that at most is only slightly difficult. But I would get a second opinion as your symtoms suggest a clutch for the compressor not the compressor itself. Although compressor is possible.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to be driving my car across the country soon. I'll be taking it in for an oil change. What else would you suggest?

Pat Goss: Check everything. No, make that EVERYTHING!!!

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Los Angeles: Hi, Pat. I have a 2001 Passat turbo 150hp 5-speed manual, a wonderful car that gets me nearly 30 mpg overall by driving with a light foot. Normally, to turn off cruise control I can lightly tap the brake (or clutch) pedal and CC goes off with just a tiny push (there's some play in the pedal, and it seems like 1/4 inch is enough). But if I'm climbing a long hill (mile or more?) with CC on and want to turn CC off, the brake pedal resists (no free play) so that I have to push moderately hard to depress it that fraction of an inch. Is that to be expected? I only noticed this in the past few months, at about 80K miles.

Pat Goss: No not expected. I would check the one way valve for the power brake booster. Brake boosters are vacuum operated and when going up hill the engine has no vacuum to supply the booster. So tere is a one way valve built into the plumbing of the booster to prevent vacuum from bleeding out of the bosster during periods of low engine vacuum. Sounds like that $20.00 valve may be bad. Without vacuum in the booster the pedal becomes high and hard to depress.

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Trenton, N.J.: In the online discussion last month you mentioned that you had gone out and purchased a Prius because of rising gas prices. Won't it still take at least 100k of highway miles to "payoff" the higher cost of the hybrid technology? Comparing a Civic LX(36) to a Prius(45) strickly on EPA HW MPG, gas would need to be $7 a gal to offset the $4,000 difference in the sticker prices of the cars. Not to mention the lackluster handling and acceleration of a hybrid. At least I always thought that was your stance in the past. You have mentioned you drive a ton of miles, so please if possible, keep us updated to the real world mileage you are getting with your hybrid. Thanks

Pat Goss: Actually the Prius went back in favor of a Hybrid Camry. No it will not take me that long and the advantages of owning a Hybrid are very dependend on the amount of driving a person does. In my case fuel bills had escalated to between five and six hundred dollars per month. The Hybrid drops that figure by about sixty percent compared to my other cars. So it will pay for itself in very short order. But if you don't do a lot of driving Hybrid tecnology probably would not make sense.

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Dupont Circle: This may be a bit outside your normal area, but do you know any place a person can take basic motorcycle maintenance classes? How to properly change the oil and other liquids, etc. I want to learn how to do these things not only to help maintain the bike, but also to be prepared during any trips. Thanks very much for any advice.

Pat Goss: Check with Lyndon at Patriot Harley Davidson in Fairfax. They have a full range of courses from beginning to complex and for men and women.

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Washington, D.C.: My 2004 BMW 330i has a computerized system that announces when service is needed. Right now, I have about 6,000 miles to go before the next oil change (the car uses synthetic oil). I worry b/c the car is driven very little and the last oil change was more than 1 year ago. Is all of this OK? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Most owner's manuals say to follow the instrument on the dash but never exceed one year before changing oil. I would change it now.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Got a question about after market sun roofs. I'm thinking of installing one on a new car, because I don't want the other stuff that comes along with sun roof from the factory. Any problems here? What should I look for in a vendor?

Pat Goss: Other than the slightly different appearance (trim ring) there are in many cases advantages to the aftermarket unit. On a factory installed unit the warrnty runs with the car warranty but on many of the better aftermarket roofs the warranty is much longer and some are even lifetime.

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Vienna, Va.: Pat, I've been a fan of yours for years. Is an extended warranty a good idea for a one owner 2007 Benz with 4-Matic and driven less than 6K miles per year?

Pat Goss: That depends on several factors. How much? Will the warranty run out before the factory warranty runs out? In your case it sounds like the extended warranty would run out almost simutaneous with the factory warranty due to such little use. If that is the case it would not make sense. If that is not the case and you can get a decent price it might make sense.

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Glen Echo, Md.: Morning Pat, I'm glad to see you still on Motorweek on PBS -- a serious car show for real information helps us car nuts keep informed. My '98 Ford Contour SVT (2.5l V6), 115k miles, has an odd vibration passing through 2500 RPM -- if I rev the engine slowly sitting still I can feel it somewhat but more so with the engine under load. Exhaust shields look like they are secure. Engine mounts seem OK from the surface. What else could be the problem? I replaced the serpentine belt and tensioner pulley. Thanks!

Pat Goss: Could be in the clutch but more likely the engine mounts aren't as good as the look. I would check them more closely.

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Wilmington, N.C.: Hi Pat, I have a 95 Corolla. I hear a metal pinging sound in the lower left of the car when I turn the steering wheel or slow down. Any ideas?

Pat Goss: Check the CV joints in the drive axles.

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Silver Spring, Md.: My 1994 Subaru Legacy (160k miles) has a 4-speed automatic transmission and it runs well. However, the "lockup" does not engage for the first 10 minutes of highway driving if it is warm weather or about 20 minutes in the cold. It has been like this for the 5 years I've owned it; I change the fluid and it looks fine. Should I worry? What could I check? Thanks for your thoughtful advice and how do you like your Prius? Do you find yourself changing your driving habits to maximize the milage number on dashboard (a feature I wish was mandatory on all cars)?

Pat Goss: I loved the Prius but it went back for a Camry Hybrid which is astounding. Yes, due to the mileage indicator on the dash (the one in the Camry is much better than the one in the Prius) my driving style has changed. I have actually significantly increased miles per gallon on the other two cars as a result. As far as your transmission goes it has a temperature sensor which should be checked. The delay does seem longer than normal.

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Rockville, Md.: Hello, I have a 2002 Ford Explorer with the "sealed" transmission. I've had it back to the dealer mulitple times while it was under warranty for several selinods failing and they finally just tore the entire thing apart and replaced all the internal parts rebuilt the transmission (at Ford's expense). Problem is it is still this sealed thing -- I was told that it didn't need to be flushed and it should last to 150k and then it would be another replacement. Since the first time it happened it was under 20K, then 36K, and then about 54k when they rebuilt, I'm not sure I excatly trust them. Is there anyway to flush it? It has been about 20k miles since they rebuilt it.

Pat Goss: You are getting some VERY bad information. There is nothing sealed about your transmision or any other transmission on the planet. It just has a different, more accurate, way to check fluid level. It can be flushed and flushing would definitely make it last longer.

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Fairfax, Va.: The radiator in my 81 MB is leaking coolant (about quarter tank every 50 miles). I have been refilling it every so often, but is there any danger in continuing to do so rather than take it in for repair right now? I want the shop to look at during my next oil change (another 1,000 miles). Thanks.

Pat Goss: As long as you keep it full everything should be okay. My big concern would be the leak getting much worse very quickly which could lead to rapid coolant loss and damaging overheating.

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Washington, D.C.: I may take a job overseas in Eastern Europe and just got a new mini van b/c of a growing family. I don't want to sell it so I'm thinking of shipping it over. Anything to consider? It's a new Sienna.

Pat Goss: Yes, you will need special papers and some mechanical setup before you can ship it. I believe it is the State Department that has the forms and instructions. The catalytic onverters will have to be removed and preserved (with signed affidavits) and the fuel tank filler restrictor removed and preserved. These will have to be replaced when the car comes back into the states. This means you will have to buy some export pieces to have installed in place of the U.S. spec parts.

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Washington, D.C.: In the last 3 years, I've had my 2000 Jetta that is constantly (maybe 2x/year) in the shop for some sort of coolant leak. You name it, it's been replaced -- gaskets, water pump, pipes, radiator hoses, etc. I'm fed up with this and have taken it to several different mechanics. Should I take a loss and sell it, or hope that there's some miracle fix?

Pat Goss: The normal problem is the plastic hose connector on the back of the block. A dye test will prove it and the fix is relatively easy and inexpensive.

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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Pat,

I have a 2001 Honda Accord with approximately 88,000 miles. For the past few months, the brakes have been squeaking so I took it to Honda to have the brake pads replaced. Honda stated the pads are only half worn and I only needed the brakes cleaned. Even after the cleaning, the queaking continued and I took them to a different repair shop. That shop also stated the brake pads are only half worn and do not need replaced. What would be causing the squeaking noise when braking? Thanks

Pat Goss: Improper servicing of the brakes. Cleaning by itself (used to work fine) no longer corrects noises. What usually has to be done is proper brake service which includes lubricating with special brake lube, degalzing parts, and cleaning. Many shops do not do this and do not have the products to do it.

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re: Annandale and uncomfy seats: I am scared for the day my 91 Accord goes to the other side... I have test driven many other cars and the thing I notice is that the headrest -- NOT the adjustable seat -- is angled forward. How hard would it be to transplant my 91 Accord seat into another Accord?

Pat Goss: If you do it yourself probanly pretty easy. But if you hope to have a shop do it most would not due to liability.

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Vienna, Va.: What should I do about rust?

I have an 87 4Runner that still runs in great shape, but a few panels have rusted through on the corners. What's the best way to attack this problem? Replace the panels? Cut out the rust?

Pat Goss: It depends on the severity of the rust. If it isn't too bad you could buy patch panels and cut away the rust. Once the rust has been removed the metal would be trimmed to fit pre-formed patch panels. The patch panels would then be welded into position and skimmed with body filler for a smooth paintable surface. Then paint the repaired areas and use a liberal coating of wax based rust proofing on the back of he repair to prevent re-rusting. A lot of work.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi, I have a 2007 Honda Civic. It has a oil monitor that tells you the percentage. I've been told by the dealership and in the manual, to change my oil based on that monitor. Is that correct? Because I don't drive that much so it's been more than 3 months now, although maybe not more than 3,000 miles. Thanks.

Pat Goss: Oil life monitors are best considered a last line of defense not first. You're still better off changing oil based on time or miles. The monitors do not check the condition of the oil they simply look at how many revolutions the engine has turned and make a guess at what is the best time to change.

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Vienna, Va.: Pat, 1994 Firebird. Can I still bleed the brakes by using the gravity method? I mean, open the bleed screw, push down gently on the brake, and let the fluid run until clean fluid is seen?

Pat Goss: Gently on the pedal with a two by four under the pedal to keep it from going too close to the floor is okay.

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Fairfax, Va.: Pat, '91 Volvo 240 with 200,000 miles. Check engine light came on and the code in the computer was for the air mass sensor. Is it worth it to try the air mass aerosol cleaner or just go ahead and replace the unit?

Pat Goss: I would try cleaning the MAF first. We find about fifty percent of them respond to cleaning. Just make sure to use a dedicated MAF sensor cleaner and nothing else.

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Gainesville, Fla.: Since a lot of headlight covers are plastic these days, what do you recommend cleaning them with? Also how do you keep them from fading over?

Pat Goss: There are dedicated cleaners and polishes available at your local auto parts store. You should be using a polish regularly to avoid severe discoloration.

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Herndon, Va.: I'm checking out a used 1999 Acura Integra GS-R as potential car for my 17-year-old son. Are you aware of any major problems with that model that I should look for? Is the "R" version going to be too tempting for him, speedwise? I previously had a 1990 Integra GS for 13 years and was very happy with it.

Pat Goss: Hot car -- very desirable for young folks. I would check with my insurance company before buying as they are prone to theft. And yes although the car is not particulalry fast it is fast enough to get someone in trouble very easily.

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DC: Mr. Goss, I have a 2001 S40 Volvo (less than 85,000 miles) that had problems with the driver/passenger interior heater over the winter season. The hot air blower would cut on and off, on and off regardless if the automatic temp setting was engaged or manually set at a specific fan level. The condition was present regardless of driving environment, on city streets or highway driving. With warmer weather, this issue is no longer present. With the spring, I tried the a/c and no problems with cold air blowing. The dealership was not able to re-produce the issue during the last service check. During the visit, I was told that perhaps the car's blower would need to be replaced at over $800. Do you have any ideas or suggestions as I try to isolate the issue and weigh a potential service? Thank you.

Pat Goss: The only way to determine what is going on is by being able to recreate the problem. If that can't be done anything that would be done is only a guess. Sorry.

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Pat Goss: Well that's it everyone. Thank you for participating, I really appreciate it. Until next time please remember and support our military and please everyone -- drive gently!

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