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The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, June 16, 2008; 2:00 PM

Got a travel-related question, comment, suspicion, warning, gripe, sad tale or happy ending? The Post Travel Section Flight Crew is at your service.

On the itinerary this week: seeking out bargain stays in the "real" London; playing with rescued farm animals at an Upstate New York sanctuary; and avoiding fees for extra checked luggage with cool new zip-apart suitcases.

All other travel topics are open as well. If you have insights, ideas or information to add to the discussion, just press the call button above your seat and we'll get to you as soon as we can. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

A transcript follows.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions. For daily dispatches, check out Travel Log, the Travel section's new blog.

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Scott Vogel: Afternoon, everyone, and welcome to Travel's weekly kaffeeklatsch. Today I'm joined by John Deiner, Andrea Sachs, Carol Sottili and Christina Talcott, all of whom are here to respond to your every whim. Oh, and as for today's contest: As a recent victim of a nightmare hotel experience (see today's Travel Log blog entry below), I'd love to hear about your own worst hotel nights, especially those that are traceable to rowdy neighbors. The best story wins a nice prize, a handsome traveler's neck pillow. Just the thing for those unpredictable nights on the road...

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washingtonpost.com: The Monday Rant: If the Hotel's a Rockin' . . . (Travel Log blog, June 16)

Scott Vogel: Here's that link.

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Wilkes Barre, Pa.: I am headed out to Vegas next month and I am planning on going out to Hoover Dam. I am going to drive out rather than take one of the bus trips, but was wondering if the "Dam Tour" was worth the additional expense. Also has anyone been to the Atomic Testing Museum? Thanks for any input.

John Deiner: Hey, WB. Haven't been to the Atomic Testing Museum (but, man, I need to get there), but I'd definitely take the tour of the dam. It's such a cool spot -- I find everything about it fascinating, and any extra info can't hurt.

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Washington D.C.: Submitting early - but hope you take this because I am befuddled! I checked ticket prices Wednesday for an August trip on Midwest Air from National to Kansas City. The price was $288. When I went to buy the ticket this weekend the price was $438. I was shocked. I know airlines are in trouble, but a 60% increase in a few days, without any mention in the media, is stunning. Is this happening everywhere? Thanks for your chats!

Carol Sottili: Here's why that happens. An airline has a sale that includes Kansas City. All the other airlines match that fare. Then the sale ends. Fares go back to their normal pre-sale price. Go to www.farecast.com or www.farecompare.com to get an indication as to whether fares will go down again.

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Washington, D.C.: So Scott, how was it?

Last week I asked about the beach restoration going on at Myrtle Beach and whether it should affect our decision to go in August. I was told to wait a week and Scott Vogel would be back from a trip there. I hope Scott is back and can tell us about Myrtle Beach, especially where the sand is, or will be, in good shape by August. We would also love any specific suggestions of places to go. We are looking for a place like Sea Colony in Bethany - a nice 2 bedroom condo on the beach with a pool(s). We didn't want to go back to Sea Colony because we wanted to try something new with warmer water and a better (wider or at least less crowded) beach. We have kids so life guards are a plus.

Thanks

Scott Vogel: Except for the hotel stay, it was terrific. The water was wonderfully warm, the beaches wide and inviting, and the sand, while not empty, wasn't packed either. My favorite beach was a stretch in central Myrtle Beach between 21st and 18th Avenues North , but there are lots of other great spots. As for lifeguards, they were plentiful at an area around 8th Avenue North, which was a great place for my 7-year-old to play in the waves. (But even with lifeguards, you've gotta keep an eye on the kids. Riptides are an ever-present possibility.) As for condos, try The Breakers (www.breakers.com). I didn't stay there but it looked like a great family-friendly place on the beach, in the vicinity of the places above.

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Alexandria, Va.: Looking for a quick weekend getaway and a Fourth of July with a historical angle -- Can you recommend an inn or B-and-B near Harper's Ferry?

John Deiner: Hey, Al. Lots of places in that area. I've always been a fan of Buckskin Manor, in nearby Purcellville, but it's been a while since I've checked in. Anyone with some good suggestions for Harpers Ferry and environs?

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Silver Spring, Md.: What are the must-see attractions in Montreal? We'll be there for 4 days in late July and would love to experience the feel of a European city while staying put in North America. Also any fun dining suggestions?

Christina Talcott: Just like a European city, you could spend the whole time just ambling around. You can explore the sidestreets of the Plateau, hike up Mont Royal (a huge park/mountain with trails), sit in cafes, bar-hop on Boulevard St. Laurent. I can only remember the name of one restaurant, Boris Bistro, in Old Montreal, where we had a lavish meal in a beautiful garden. Near there is a lovely bakery called Olive et Gourmando that makes amazing bread, croissants and coffee. While in Quebec, you must try poutine, available around town, but I first had it at the dock where the bateau mouche boat rides start. Those tours are interesting if you're used to tours in European cities, if only to see the contrast in waterfront styles: Montreal's is very industrial, whereas cities like Paris get decked out along the riverbanks. The Botanic Garden is well worth a stroll, as is the Musee des Beaux-Arts along tony Sherbrooke Ave. Anyone else have Montreal recs?

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Silver Spring, Maryland: Would you recommend Niagara Falls for a family of four including two kids (7 and 9)? I thought it might be fun. Do you agree and how do your recommend we get there for four or five days? Where to stay -- U.S. or Canada side?

Thanks.

washingtonpost.com: Both Sides Now (Post Travel Section, Sept. 18, 2005)

John Deiner: Hey, Silver. YES. Your family will have a ball -- tons of stuff to do, all of it on the expensive side now that the exchange rate isn't so hot. Plus, it'll be cooler up there during the summer months. Don't just stay around the falls though -- you can easily kill a couple of days venturing outward. I've always stayed on the Canadian side, because much of the best junk is over there, and there are more hotels.

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Boston, Mass.: Despite the poor exchange rate, I'm considering making yet another trip to Europe in October. I usually fly British Airways through London, but with airfares in turmoil I'm ready to abandon loyalty for a lower fare.

I haven't decided where to go on this trip, and I don't necessarily have to fly into the cities or countries I intend to visit, as travel around Europe is rather economical.

Where are the best (read: usually cheapest) cities to fly from in the states to European destinations? I'd be leaving from Boston. The lowest fares and best flights seem to be to London, Frankfurt, and possibly Zurich, but I'm open to alternatives.

Carol Sottili: I'm not all that familiar with fares out of Boston. But generally, London is cheapest. It's all about competition. If there are several airlines offering service to a city, prices will be cheaper, especially if an upstart airline comes in with a cheap fare. Go to www.massport.com (Logan Airport's Web site) to find out which airlines fly where.

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Hoover Dam: Yes! Take the dam tour. The power plant tour only has a couple stops inside the dam at less than interesting places, but the dam tour takes you right up into the air vents where you can look down shafts that are HUNDREDS of feet deep (and have to walk over their grates!) and right out to the edge of the dam halfway down and you can see the lower Colorado below. Bring a camera and enjoy!

John Deiner: There ya go. You can't still go alllll the way down and see the turbines, can you? I remember doing that pre-9/11, and it was a marvel. Plus you could walk along the river and look up at the dam. Wow.

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London Layover: For the person from last week with 12 hours between flights at Heathrow: I've done this lots of times. First, trust me on this, the 12 hours from when the wheels of your first plane hit the tarmac until the second plane takes off equate to about 6 hours in Central London. There are two approaches. Get on the bus tour and see all of London from the outside of the buildings (great for the photo album if not for the soul)or choose one and only one area for a more reasoned experience. My suggestions would be (1) tube to Russell Square. Have a cup of coffee at the outdoor cafe and read a newspaper. (You'll need the jolt.) Spend a couple of hours at the British Museum. Have lunch at any of the numerous pubs nearby. Walk around the Inns of Court, especially Inner Temple Church. Head back to Heathrow. (2) Tube to Tower Gateway. Get a cup of coffee from one of the little shops. Do Tower of London. Walk along the South Bank (lots of restaurants/pubs) to the pedestrian bridge. Walk across the Thames, see St. Paul's, head back to Heathrow. (3) Tube to Westminster. Walk around the Parliament Buildings, do Westminster Abbey, stopping in the cafe first for your caffeine hit, lunch at a pub, and see Churchill's Cabinet War Rooms, head back to Heathrow. (4) If museums are your thing, do both Tate (British and Modern) and take the Tate to Tate boat between the two. It's one of the cheapest river tours you could imagine, right past the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye, etc. Head back to Heathrow. London is just too big geographically (and traffic-ally) to try to do more than area while fighting jet lag.

Christina Talcott: Great ideas for Heathrow layovers. Last week I blogged about a list sent to me by British Tourism - link's coming up.

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Seattle or Vancouver?: Hi Gurus, hope you can help!

My husband and I are going on an Alaskan cruise this summer (yeah!) out of Seattle, and we have a couple days before we leave to tour either Vancouver/Victoria or Seattle. If you were a young, 20something, likes to keep busy couple, which city would you prefer, and what would you recommend doing while there?

Scott Vogel: Wow, wish I could join you. As a former Pacific NW resident, I think Seattle is your best bet, especially given your age. The energy of that city, much of it created by its 20-somethings, is extraordinary. You see it in the theater scene, music scene, etc., and it's got a funkiness that the other two don't have. On the other hand, Victoria and Vancouver are both gorgeous....

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Bethesda Mom: We're trying to book a train ticket for my son who will be traveling from Alicante, the site of a summer study program, to Valencia Spain where he'll catch a flight to Rome. The Spanish train site is easy enough to navigate until you actually have to buy a ticket, then it won't work. We can't tell if this is because the train is sold out or some other reason. Is there a general European train site where we could buy a ticket?

Thanks for all your help!

Carol Sottili: Try www.raileurope.com or www.railpass.com.

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Fredericksburg, Va.: My fiance wants to have our wedding and reception on a boat on the Chesapeake Bay. Are there spots other than Annapolis I should be considering? There will be quite a few guests from out of town, so I am concerned about their ability (and mine!) to maneuver around the area, find affordable lodging, etc.

Andrea Sachs: Definitely look beyond Annapolis. Try Easton or Oxford/St. Michaels/Tilghman Island area, or Chestertown/Rock Hall. All are super romantic.

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D.C.: My worst hotel nightmare didn't actually happen during the night, but early evening. My husband and I were staying in a hostel in East London, and we were hanging out in the front inside the entrance. All of a sudden, these kids who were staying there ran screaming through the front door, slamming it shut and locking it. About 10 seconds later, a large group of teens also ran up to the door and started slamming into with baseball bats. Fortunately the doors held, though they took quite a beating. The hostel manager was on the phone with the police, screaming for help, but the police seemed quite disinclined to help from what we could hear. My husband quickly ushered me upstairs back to our room, where we sat with our tiny window opened a slit during one of England's hottest days. Obviously the visitors had somehow provoked the locals, who didn't take it well. But we survived, though were skeptical of our safety for awhile.

Scott Vogel: Wow, it's rough when even the police can't help.

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Adams Morgan: I'm considering going to Puerto Vallarta for a conference in October. I was looking at air fares and found the cheapest to be around $650. Is 4 and a half months too early to be reserving a seat?

Also, it looks like there will be a layover in Dallas or Miami on the way back, how much time would you recommend I allow to get through customs?

Thanks

Andrea Sachs: It is never too early too book a flight, especially one that is a good price. To be safe, leave two hours to get through customs and make your connection.

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Arlington, Va.: re: bad hotel stays. I guess along the noise lines I was staying in a nice boutique-y hotel in Bangkok last November when my neighbor decided to play Elvis Presley music at a very loud volume at about 2 AM. Pounding on the wall did the trick, but I didn't realize before I pounded that the walls were either concrete or some sort of very hard plastic, so my hand hurt pretty bad after that.

I think a worse stay was at the Kimpton in NYC. My room smelled like mold. It seemed to be coming from the AC unit and I could see what looked like black mold on the louvers of the unit. I told the front desk about it on my way out for the evening. When I returned the room smelled like Lysol and mold. It seemed like the just sprayed it instead of actually cleaning it. I also had a clogged shower which they did unclog at least. One of the elevators didn't work so it was just 1 elevator for the whole hotel. And my room was next to the housekeeping closet so early in the morning there was lots of noise as they started cleaning the rooms very early. Not a very good intro to Kimpton I am afraid.

Scott Vogel: It certainly wasn't. Strange too, as that chain generally has a good reputation.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm packing to go to Europe for two weeks and discovered that there is absolutely no way to get all my liquids (shampoo, conditioner, frizz-bomb, hairspray, toothpaste, saline, concealer, Zicam, Nasonex, sunscreen...) into a one quart bag. And I definitely don't want to have to try to find these items in Europe! (Zicam is my #1 cold remedy, but it can't be found there. And yes, last time I went to Europe, I got a nasty cold.) So it's checked luggage for me.

Having made that decision, I'm finding it quite liberating to have more clothing choices. No 12 days straight of the same black pants! Am I weird?

John Deiner: Okay, DC. You got spunk, and we love spunk here. (Although, I have to admit, Christina yelled out, "Pack fewer liquids!" but you make a good case about the stuff you have to bring.)

So are you weird for not wanting to wear the same clothes for 12 days? On a big ol' (I imagine expensive) jaunt to Europe? Absolutely not. I was a chronic overpacker for years until the liquid thing came up; now I keep everything to a carryon when possible. But I can definitely appreciate someone not wanting to wear the same spiffy black pants for 12 days. I say, check your bag proudly and enjoy your jaunty appearance every day.

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Cape May suggestions: Dear Travel Crew,

My husband and I are scaling back our vacation plans this year, so we decided to spend just a few days in Cape May, N.J. with some friends. We've never been, so we'd love some accommodation and/or restaurant/activity suggestions. Much of the allure of travel for us is in finding great places to stay, so we're not looking for budget hotels. I've heard there are some wonderful B-and-B's in the area. We like all kinds of restaurants, from hole-in-the-wall to luxurious and eat every kind of food. We also love culture, the beach, and quaint towns. Can you help? Thanks.

Carol Sottili: One of the nicest B and Bs is Angel of the Sea (www.angelofthesea.com). Make sure you thoroughly research your accommodations before you go: We stayed at a horrific B and B there years ago, which is no longer in business. The owners were selling, and she was not a happy innkeeper. I'm sure there are others out there who have ideas for nice restaurants/inns, right?

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Cabin John, Maryland: Can you talk more about the Animal Sanctuary vacation?

washingtonpost.com: I Love Moo (Post Travel Section, June 15)

Andrea Sachs: Did you have anything specifically in mind?

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Well, I guess it was our fault...:... for traveling to the Grand Canyon over the 4th of July holiday weekend. We reserved weeks in advance at a "reputable" budget hotel chain that had a good deal. When we showed up at our hotel after a long day of traveling, we were shown to our room which was covered in many variety of 6 legged friends... in the shower, near the bed, around the holes in the walls and ceilings.

We packed up and left only to realize that every other hotel in the area was rather booked up tight for the night, and five of us were not going to be able to sleep very well in a Saturn Ion... so back to the hotel room we went (though I don't think any of us showered in the morning).

Scott Vogel: And just when you needed a shower the most.

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Atomic Museum, Nev.: GO TO THE ATOMIC MUSEUM! It is a great piece of history, worth an hour or so of your time when you are in Vegas to get out of the casino. It has an incredible collection of memorabilia from the era when atomic testing was "OK" and "safe." Amazing stuff. The people that put this together are the people who worked doing the testing back in the 50/60s - they did it because they wanted everyone to remember what amazing power could be unleashed from these weapons - as they put it in the movie there - every year there are fewer and fewer people left who have actually witnessed a test - they do not want the world to forget. Very powerful and not preachy (either pro or con).

John Deiner: Now that's one explosive response. I went to the ol' museum, which was a closet with a gift shop. I'm definitely heading to the new one on my next visit.

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New York, N.Y.: I have to go to Barcelona next winter on business. When I looked a few months ago the fares were $550. Then $600. Now they're $700. For the same dates in February '09, every time. Should I just buy now, or is there any possibility at all that they'll come down?

Carol Sottili: If it's $700 with all the taxes on a good airline with good connections, I'd buy it. Jet fuel doesn't seem to be getting any cheaper.

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Alexandria, Va.: There were rowdy football players from Charleston Southern on my floor the night I got in to Honolulu. I was so tired that it didn't matter.

My first night in Australia, however, I was woken up around 3 AM by a phone call from my office asking if I knew anything about an upcoming meeting. Getting back to sleep while trying to rack my brain for info about this (which was later determined never to have been scheduled) wasn't fun.

But when the phone rang at 3 AM, I did answer it.

Scott Vogel: Wait, could Hillary Clinton be vacationing in Australia?

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Richmond, Va: When you travel abroad, what do you do to learn the language of your destination country? Do you just master enough to get around (please, thank you, how much is, how do I find, etc.) or do you go a step further?Thanks!

Christina Talcott: When I went to Japan for a week a bunch of years ago, I bought something called "In-Flight Japanese," a set of CDs with a booklet. Not much sank in, but I did learn how to say "please," "thank you" and, most importantly, "I'm sorry!" (I was always doing unacceptable things, from blowing my nose on the bus to getting on the express train without the right ticket.) Guidebooks usually have a section with some common phrases, which can come in handy, and I wind up falling back on French from time to time. Do any of the chatters really study a language before going on vacation abroad?

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Montreal suggestions: In addition to poutine, try a smoked meat sandwich and a Montreal style bagel - both are unique to the region and you can find them all over the city. Au Pied du Cochon (www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca) is a restaurant that specializes in offal and other exotic treats, like foie gras poutine. The open air public markets like Atwater and Jean-Talon are great. The Metro costs $2.50 one way and is the best way to get around. The Olympic Park offers a great tower for views, as well as the Biodome. Skip the Biosphere. Habitat 67 is a cool architectural complex built for Expo 67, and the Basilica in Old Montreal is also lovely. There are festivals going on all the time in summer - beware of crowds or plan to attend them if you like crowds...listing is here: http://www.montreal.com/tourism/fests.html

Bon voyage!

Christina Talcott: Merci! Great tips for Montreal.

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Dallas, Texas: Headed to Destin, Florida this week and Nashville, Tenn. the week after with four small kids. Any great suggestions for either cities?

John Deiner: Hey, Dallas. Haven't been to Destin, but I gotta tell ya: I loved everything about Nashville. Not a huge country music fan, but 10 minutes there, I became one. I was checking out everything from Opryland to the Minnie Pearl Museum (or was it her birthplace? or a gift shop?). Not sure about the four small kids, though -- they may not enjoy the Country Music Hall of Fame as much as I did.

Anyone got some specific pointers on Nashville? Or Destin?

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Worst "hotel" night: Last summer, my husband and I had booked an overnight boat slip at a big marina with bar/restaurant attached. That particular night, we were docked next to a large boat containing about 6 adults and a few kids, about 7 or 8 years old. The adults partied hard into the night and woke us up at about 2 AM with their drunken antics. One conversation was a particularly, erm, poignant slurred patriotic lecture from a father to his young son, about the importance of the American flag and what it stood for. An hour later, we were awakened again by someone urinating off the deck of their boat, boasting about his attempts to see if he could reach his stream into our boat. At that point I popped outside and asked him what he was doing, and he admitted that he urinated ON our boat, but was unable to get any IN our boat. We retreated to our cabin for a very tense 30 minutes or so, then fired up our engine and had a very early morning/sunrise cruise home. And yes, we were compensated with a free night, as well as the satisfaction that the registration number on that boat has been banned from the marina.

Scott Vogel: Okay, this one brought me to tears, and it wasn't the patriotism. Trust me.

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Pittsburgh: For Montreal-bound visitors, the Botanical Garden is a must, and conveniently located at Metro stop! Lots of wedding photographs are taken there during the summer, which is fun to see. Nice museum at McGill University. Scenic vista from the eponymous Mount Royal. Also the historic old town, along the St. Lawrence River. If you're so inclined, also check out the student/Bohemian neighborhood on Rue St. Denis, with lots of reasonably priced eateries.

Christina Talcott: More Montreal advice. Thanks!

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Montreal dining recommendation: Try dinner at Gibby's on Place d'Youville in Vieux-Montreal (take a cab; while it's not that far from Basilique Notre-Dame, it would be easy to get lost at night walking to the Metro). The fresh Arctic char is the best I've found.

Christina Talcott: Thanks for the rec!

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Chantilly, Va.: I was talking to a Northwest Airlines representative last week trying to secure a pre-assigned seat. There were none left. She told me there were seats available for pre-assignment only for premiere frequent flier members. The representative encouraged me to still book the flight, saying that Northwest Airlines doesn't overbook flights and that I wouldn't have any trouble getting a seat assignment on the day of the flight. I ended up not booking the flight, but want to know if her statement about Northwest not overbooking flights was true (I thought all airlines overbooked flights).

Carol Sottili: According to the Department of Transportation stats for January-March 2008, Northwest ranked 7th in number of passengers bumped. Stat was 1.15 involuntary denied boardings for every 10,000 passengers.

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Washington, D.C.: Now that my favorite travel book store on 14th Street has closed... do you have any recommendations of bookstores that have expansive travel sections (more than just guide books)? An impending trip to Spain demands it! Gracias!

Andrea Sachs: Such a loss! Unfortunately, I can't think of any travel-specific stores left in the city. Of course, AAA is helpful, and the major bookstores (including Kramer's) have good guidebook selections. However, for advise, try contacting Global Corner Bookstores in Cambridge, Mass. (www.globecorner.com). They are wonderful, and perhaps can give you some titles that you can order through them or closer to home.

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washingtonpost.com: Heathrow Layovers: The Experts Weigh In (Travel Log blog, June 12)

Christina Talcott: Here's the blog item I posted last week about Heathrow layovers (in case you didn't get enough of that topic last week!).

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Vienna, Va.: Hi Crew -

Husband & I are taking a child-free vacation in late September. We have four nights and want to keep it low-key. Based on the discussions here, we are considering either Iceland or the Azores. We like outdoors experiences and good food. Which makes more sense? Thank you.

John Deiner: Hey, Vienna. Let's throw this out to the masses. I've been to the Azores, and it's a fantastic place. You do have to work a little harder there than in Iceland -- there can be language difficulties, and island-hopping can be a bit of a pain. In Iceland, it's all in one place. I'm assuming low-key means no big party scene, which is one thing Reykjavik offers that the Azores can't touch.

Opinions?

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Alexandria, Va.: My husband and I are hoping to plan a weekend trip in July (specifically July 11-13) to Chicago; what are typical airfares we should look for? I'm seeing minimum $248, but I've seen a past chat of yours that said $150 would be ideal. Also, the flights I'm seeing have layovers of less than 1 hour. I've done this before but wonder if it's worth it. Thanks!

Carol Sottili: July is just around the corner. Go to www.farecast.com and www.farecompare.com for more info on where airfares may be heading. I'd pay extra and go nonstop.

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Cherry Hill: Worst hotel experience - my husband and I were on our first vacation together - staying at a nice hotel in the Dominican Republic. Neither of us speak Spanish. The first night there he was bit by a spider on the back of his hand, and it swelled up to twice its size. We had to go to the resort's doctor - who had him drop his drawers for a large shot in the bum! Talk about scary. The doctor. didn't speak English... but we survived... although my poor husband got bitten several more times during our stay, despite us moving our bed into the dead center of our hotel room (hoping that would keep the spiders away.)

Scott Vogel: Wow, and what strange natural repellent kept the spiders away from you?

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Thanksgiving already . . .: We are going to have a new baby and so decided to by our Thanksgiving tickets already given prices, and the fact that we needed to use up some ticket vouchers. We paid about $320 per person from DCA to Chicago, flying Tuesday-Saturday. Given oil prices, etc., did we get a good deal?

Andrea Sachs: For the holiday time period, you got a great deal!

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B and B Near Harpers Ferry: I stayed at Cottonwood Inn in Charles Town during a Labor Day weekend trip a couple years ago to West Virginia that is very close to Harper's Ferry. There are great wineries close by and the Inn keepers were great. The rates are very reasonable as well. I visited Harper's Ferry while there and it was very enjoyable experience.

John Deiner: Excellente...thanks for the tip!

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Philly: My worst hotel experience was last fall, in France. We booked a walking tour (based on a Post article) and after our second day of walking stayed in the same recommended by the writer. Our room faced the street, smelled of urine, had insects flying through it (we had to keep the windows with no screens open despite the mozzies because of the smell!) ...but we ended up staying and roughing it as our feet were so sore from walking and it was pouring down rain. A close second worst experience was in Iceland - the exchange rate was so poor that our tiny, dark, noisy dorm like room cost us over $400 USD a night. UGH!

Scott Vogel: Yeesh, sign of the times, I'm afraid.

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Eye Street: Hello Travel Gurus,

I am looking into renting a house at old Orchard Beach, Maine. I've never been there and need a sense of the vibe. Is it touristy and tacky? Or quiet? Anyone know?

Andrea Sachs: We have never been, but would love some input from the chatsters. Tacky or tony?

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Worst Hotel Stay: The Ballone Inn in New Orleans a month ago. My floor's carpeting was completely torn up and rolled in such a way that I had to walk completely around the hotel to my room. Second night there, 4 am wake up for the 7:30 SWA flight back to BWI. At 11PM the couple in the room next door were amorous for the next two hours. I almost considered going and knocking and asking if they wanted to me to join seeing as I had virtually participated anyway, given the screams, moans, and bed knocking on the adjacent wall. Not a fun 3:45 wake up.

Scott Vogel: From the Dept of If-You-Can't-Beat'em-Join'em.

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Hotel nightmare: Ours happened in Maine...We were on a visit before we moved here and stayed at a Days Inn - or something like that. The hotel was booked full, so we got the handicapped room. That would have been OK, but a boys' hockey team was also staying there and the boys had a lot of fun ringing our bell at all hours of the night. Not only was the bell loud, it also flashed a bright red light above our bed - I assume for hearing impaired people. Oh, and did I mention that the room was next to the pool? I think the adults must have gone to bed and let an entire hockey team play around in the pool until the wee hours of the morning. We called the front desk several times, but I think they were asleep too. We didn't get any type of compensation the next morning - and believe me, I tried!

Scott Vogel: I feel your pain -- Ya gotta wonder what the parents would think if they knew the chaperones were AWOL.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi gang,

We are planning a Galapagos cruise and the person who was supposed to make the reservations dropped the ball. (This is for a family reunion.) Now everyone (17 of us) is scrambling to find space in August. Airline tickets have been purchased already. Has anyone ever used Inti Travel and Tours? They are a tour outfit out of Banff Canada and they found a couple of spots. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

John Deiner: OUCH. Not familiar with that company, but let's see what the gang says. The Galapagos cruise industry is pretty tightly regulated, so I would guess (I said "guess") that the bad apples get shaken from the tree pretty quickly. That said, it's a pretty quick turnaround to get 17 folks on board a Galapagos cruise. Definitely give us a report when you get back, will you, Silver?

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Harrisburg, Pa.: My worst hotel story: I awoke in the middle of the night with my room full of smoke. I at first thought the place was on fire. Then I was aware that the smoke detector was not ringing. In searching for the source, I deducted that the people in the room next door were smoking so many "funny cigarettes" that the smoke was actually coming through the door and filling my room. I can't imagine what their room was like, but, I guess for them, that may have been the point.

Scott Vogel: And you didn't even get a contact high, I'm guessing.

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Arlington, Va.: The Atomic Testing Museum in Vegas is pretty cool, I can attest. It's also not busy, and the people that work there are typically former Test Site employees themselves, and happy to answer questions. They also have a test blast simulation room, with bright lights, heat and wind. It's nifty.

John Deiner: You had me at "test blast simulation."

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Greenville, S.C.: Regarding Myrtle Beach, a vacationer should remember that this area is in reality a string of beach communities stretching many miles from North Carolina south to Pawleys Island, SC. Going "to the beach" is a rite of passage in my area, and many have a favorite beach that is not Myrtle. Granted that Myrtle Beach may be the family favorite, but many South Carolinians choose the less frantic areas including Pawleys Island, Litchfield, North Litchfield, and Surfside.

Scott Vogel: Very true. They're all part of what's known as the Grand Strand, and the area offers just about any sort of accommodation situation imaginable. Thanks.

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Arlington Va.: Do any of the Traveler's Rights bills that have been discussed in Congress require airlines to have HUMANS to answer the lost baggage phones -- or even to have phones? I've spent all day searching for a bag, and am irritated beyond belief that United Airlines refuses to give out a phone number for its baggage service area at IAD. This bag was checked by Frontier from ABQ thru Denver to IAD on United -- which was my itinerary. But maintenance problems caused me to miss the connection so I flew on into DCA on Frontier. Now Frontier can't find the bag -- and I'm pretty sure it is at IAD, but am not going to drive 25 miles on a lark to check it out when neither airline will confirm that they have the bag. United tells me they do have a phone number at baggage service, but they don't give it out. A rather unpleasant chat with a supervisor netted only her belief that it would cost too much money to have someone answer the phone if mere passengers were able to call. What a runaround. On days like this, I wish a pox on all of them and would prefer the train. Any advice?

Carol Sottili: Sorry, but there is no bill of rights for travelers. There's been talk of it for years, but no law has been passed. And we don't have any insider phone number for United's lost luggage line. Think you're going to have to burn some gasoline if you want to make sure your bag is not just sitting there. Gives me an idea for a business.....we'll search for your luggage.

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Falls Church, Va: Hi Crew -

Our parents are retired in the Adirondacks and we are sending our daughter there for a week. When we go to pick her up, we want to do a week of vacation as a family driving from there. But we've done the Adirondacks so many times, as well as Vermont and New Hampshire. We are just very tired of the whole mountain plus lake thing. Any suggestions for someplace within a 6 or 7 hours drive of the Adirondacks that isn't more of the same? Thanks

Christina Talcott: Do you like cities? Montreal, Boston, Providence, Portland, even New York City are all within a few hours of the Adirondacks. Or you could do a beach vacation on Cape Cod or along the coast of Maine. Do any of those sound fun, or do you have something else in mind? Are you an amusement-park kind of group? Equestrians? Antique-lovers? If you can give me more of an idea of what you like, maybe I could be more helpful...

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washington: Just some comments about previous posts.

Hoover Dam: My husband and I went there last July. Be prepared. It was 115 degrees and because they were building a bypass to the two lane road leading to the dam, we were stuck in traffic for a little while. It was hot!

Niagara Falls: My husband and I went to school in Buffalo and had lots of memories of trips to the "Falls." We took our kids (age 10 and 12) there last year. We stayed on the Canadian side at the Marriott, which is right besides the Falls, but away from the old tacky part of town. It was a great location. We paid a little more for a room that faces the Falls. It was beautiful. The Falls are lit up at night and they play music sometimes. I also highly recommend short day trips to Niagara on the Lake (a quaint town about 20 minutes from the falls and you can visit the Floral Clock along the way) and Fort Niagara (I think). It is in New York and definitely worth the trip. It is the oldest fort/structure up that way and it is just amazing.

Goat Island on the American side of the Falls is really nice too. It does not seem to get as crowded as the Canadian side and you really get very close to the Falls.

If you get to Buffalo, don't miss Anderson's custard on Sheridan Blvd.

Have fun!

John Deiner: Thanks, Wash. All great stuff. And it's frequently warmer at the dam than it is on the Strip, so if you leave your hotel and it's "only" 105, be prepared for something worse at the dam.

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Worst Hotel stay: In Columbus Ohio, we had reserved a non smoking room but upon check in was told there were none available. Went up to our room, the hallway smelled very bad. Got to the door and went in, the adjoining door had been obviously kicked open and there were wood splinters all over the floor. The bathroom had been used and the ashtray by the phone was full. I called the front desk and they told me they did not believe me and that I should come back down. Then they asked how I knew it had been broken into and I said the wood splinters was a give away. They sent security back up with me and finally they believed me. After a while they finally gave me a non smoking room on a different floor.

Scott Vogel: Interesting how they suddenly "discovered" a nonsmoking room.

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Washington, D.C.: learning the language -- I try to learn please and thank you in the native language, but the most important phrase to learn, in my opinion, is "where is the bathroom?"

Christina Talcott: Ha! Yes, that's a good one to know.

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No name, no city: Not a hotel but a state campground, where neighbors stayed up drinking and partying till all hours. We arose at 6 AM, went over to the campground woodpile and began chopping firewood (even more than we actually needed for our breakfast campfire), loudly talking all the while. Eventually we spotted stirring in the partiers' tents, and hoped we'd made their hangovers worse!

Scott Vogel: That's the spirit!

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Re: Iceland: My husband and I also spent a child-less 3 night, 4 day vacation in Iceland. I'm not sure I would recommend it. The exchange rate is terrible... and the activities are so kid-friendly we wish we'd waited to visit this country until our kids were older and could appreciate it too... as we won't be going back. The cab driver who was supposed to take us to our rental car facility spoke zero English, and took 2 hours to find our car rental. Our hotel was not very nice... though the Web site showed a different story. Food was prohibitively expensive: $40 for two pieces of pizza and a shared beer. We ended up getting most meals from grocery stores. If you do go, drive to the big 3 destinations (waterfalls, etc - forgot the names) and RENT A TRUCK OR SUV. I can't stress this enough. The roads outside of the main city ARE NOT PAVED and are treacherous on a compact car. And plan on visiting the Blue Lagoon at least once - preferably twice - it's amazing. That being said, it's a beautiful country, but very expensive and wish we'd waited to bring kids - who would love seeing the sulfur pots, rapids, coastline, etc...

John Deiner: Excellent stuff, and discouraging. Anyone out there care to defend poor Iceland?

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Solo Travel: Potentially taking a short trip this weekend by myself, depending on the availability of cheap last-minute fares. Do you have any tips or suggestions for someone on his own to maximize the experience?

Andrea Sachs: I love to stay busy and mingle with the locals, so I check the events listings through the tourism office or newsweeklies. Then I load up the activities: arts festivals, happy hour at a museum, outdoor concerts, etc. I usually rent a bike for a few hours too, just for some fresh air and exercise. For meals, I usually take out and picnic outdoors. Or eat in busy cafe where you sit at the counter and can eavesdrop over pie.

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Md,: Old Orchard Beach is nice enough - I'd stay in York or Ogunquit, though. There are any number of reasonable places in either of those locations. Kennebunk and Kennebunkport also are reasonably close, but a little more expensive and a little more upscale, in my opinion.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the feedback!

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Silver Spring, Md.: The worst hotel neighbor experience I ever had was during a trip to Toronto. First night was fine, but second night there was a group of rowdy guests next door around 1 am. We complained to the front desk, and the guests wound up kicking the worst offender out into the hall.... where he proceeded to go on a rampage for the next few hours. First yelling and pounding to let him back in, then how he's going to kick everyone's [butts], then pounding on every door in the hallway. He completely intimidated the night clerk, an older Pakistani man, with racist threats. We called the Toronto police several times but they did not show up for SIX HOURS. By the time they got there he'd broken every light in the hallway, punched holes in the walls, set off a fire extinguisher, and basically trashed the place. We didn't get any sleep and were pretty terrified, and the hotel and police completely failed to respond.

Scott Vogel: Wow. Wow. Wow. You're lucky you escaped with your life.

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Vienna, Virginia: I figure the most important word to learn is "thank you." Beyond that, I make some attempt at basic greetings and things like "yes" and "no." It's also reassuring to know that the words for "coffee" and "chocolate" are similar in almost every language. A guy I traveled with once never learned any words beyond "please" and "beer."

Written language is sometimes more challenging. When I went to China, I made sure to learn the character for "toilet." You need to only learn one of "male" or "female" since you can then assume the other is the one you didn't learn.

Christina Talcott: Yes, using the the process of elimination - no pun intended. That reminds me: I spent a lot of time studying how to read and write numbers in Japanese, but when I got there I discovered that they use Western characters for numbers - d'oh!

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Re: Learning Language: I have traveled all over the world and feel very privileged that the world has taken on English as such a common second language. There have only been a few times that I couldn't get want I needed because of a language barrier. Guidebooks help when needed and "thank you" is the one phrase I make sure to learn. The one caveat I would put out there is that much of my traveling is to cities or when rural it is generally where some tourists go. If I were to spend two weeks in rural China for example I would probably try to learn some of the language before I go.

Christina Talcott: Yes, good point. English is very widely spoken, especially in cities, but it can be useless in rural areas.

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worst hotel experience: probably New Year's Eve in Niamey, Niger. The only hotel where we could get a room was a brothel. I kept to myself...but a man followed me up the stairs until I turned around and in my angriest voice yelled "I DO NOT WORK HERE. STOP FOLLOWING ME."

He did. The well-worn mattress and roaches did not make for a restful sleep....(neither did paper thin walls...)

Scott Vogel: The ONLY room was in a brothel??? Unreal.

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Washington, DC: For the person looking for an inn near Harper's Ferry, Hillbrook Inn in Charles Town is very nice. Be sure to have dinner there. http://www.hillbrookinn.com/

John Deiner: Cool, DC. And it even comes with a dinner recommendation...

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Bad Hotel Experience: This wasn't me, but my little sister. This past year, for Spring Break, she went to Acapulco with a bunch of friends. In the middle of the night, some kids apparently decided to light towels on fire and stuff them down the laundry chutes, which caused a ton of smoke throughout the hotel. My sister and her friends were in bed and woke up to someone banging on their door (the smoke alarms did not work) and evacuated in their PJs without passports or money. And they were not allowed back in their rooms (to even get anything) for over 24 hours.

Scott Vogel: Is it me, or are these getting more and more violent?

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Arlington, Va.: If we wanted to experience some of the ethnic and religious diversity of modern London, how about, for starters, Golders Green (Zone 3 -- Jewish) and Southall (Zone 4 -- Indian), which are both on the Tube?

What other ethnic enclaves outside Central London would you recommend?

Christina Talcott: I'm going to throw this one out there. Can anyone weigh in?

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McLean, Va.: If you're in Montreal on a hot summer day, take the jet boat tour of the Lachine Rapids. The boat takes you directly into the heart of the rapids, and does 180s at 50 mph. You will get wet, but you will be cool. it'll be the best round of screaming since you last went on a killer coaster.

Oh yes, there is also a jet boat tour from Niagara on the Lake, up to the Whirlpool. This trip is even better than the Lachine Rapids ride in Montreal. The ride takes you from the mouth of the Niagara River, up through Class V rapids and the power plant to the Whirlpool. The Whirlpool itself is positively evil.

Christina Talcott: Wow, that sounds awesome.

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For Boston: Earlier this spring while waiting for a connecting flight at Logan Airport, I met a young man who'd found a cheapish airfare to Europe via Icelandic Air. Can the Flight Crew or the clicksters report on whether Icelandic is still a better deal this summer?

Carol Sottili: Iceland Air often posts short-lived sales on its Web site, www.icelandair.com. Right now it has some good fall fares. But you do have to get to Boston - the airline no longer flies out of this area.

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Washington, D.C.: My hotel experience: Several years ago on a work trip to West Virginia, we stayed in a hotel that had been converted from a hospital. That was obvious from the wide hallways and wide doors to the bathrooms. When we ate dinner in the hotel restaurant, we were informed it was the former morgue of the hospital. When I went to bed that night, there was blood on the sheets of my bed. Gross always, but all the more with the atmosphere of a hospital where many people bled and died.

Scott Vogel: Quick, get the screenplay on paper before someone steals it!

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Spanish rail: As someone who used to live in Spain I must say that the person would need to take the credit card to a train station (RENFE) in Spain, stand in line and have his/her signature verified. It makes no sense to me. Or it could be that your credit card company is blocking it. Try the US-based websites first.

Carol Sottili: Thanks.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hotel nightmare... my worst one had to be in December 1995. I had just graduated from college earlier that year and was in my first year of law school. UVA was playing in the Peach Bowl in Atlanta and I wanted to find someplace cheap to stay for the game, not an easy task on a student's budget in Atlanta, especially in the days when the World Wide Web was in its infancy. Wound up booking a room at a Travelodge in downtown Atlanta.

Unfortunately, they never told me that they'd be painting the inside of the hotel during my stay. (If I had been a high school kid who was into sniffing paint or glue, I might have been in heaven.) But fortunately, the room's windows opened! Or was it so fortunate? Turned out that the window overlooked the Downtown Connector, that is, the 12-lane stretch of I-75/I-85 that cuts through downtown Atlanta. The hotel literally hung out over the edge of the highway. Exhaust fumes weren't so bad, but the noise... well, at least it was the week between Christmas and New Year's. I wound up leaving the window open because the noise was better than the paint fumes.

All things considered, I think I'd rather endure noisy sex through the wall or ballplaying in the hallways than the stink of a hotel being repainted.

Scott Vogel: Interesting. Other thoughts on this dilemma?!

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Md.: Maybe I'm just not of a different midset, but if you EVER get a flight to Europe on your preferred date for $550, jump on it. Sheesh. How cheap do we want it to be? They are transporting me bodily, with luggage, safely across thousands of miles of water. IF you are silly enough not to grab it at $500, then $600, BUY THE TICKET ALREADY at $700 and consider it a bargain.

Carol Sottili: No one wants to pay more than the next guy. But, like I said, $700 to Europe with all your taxes/surcharges, is a good deal.

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Vegetarian flyer: I recently flew on a European airline which shall remain nameless to protect the guilty. The good news is that it still provides dinner to passengers on its transatlantic flights (even us great unwashed masses in coach). The bad news is that, even though I checked the "Vegetarian" box while booking my trip online several weeks in advance, neither of my flights had any vegetarian meals on board. When I inquired of the attendants re my vegetarian meal, they asked if I couldn't just eat my meat serving anyhow (especially the fish on the return flight, on the grounds that it wasn't really meat - ha!). I gritted my teeth and politely replied no, I couldn't. Luckily, I had kindly seatmates on both flights who were willing to swap something they didn't like on their tray for my meat entree, so I didn't actually starve.

But my real question is, why does an airline list vegetarian meal options when a passenger is booking a flight online, when it apparently has no intention of honoring the requests? After all, once a passenger is already in-flight, there aren't exactly a lot of alternatives. And, more generally, should passengers start asking while checking in for their flight whether their special-request meal will in fact be provided, as ordered, so that in case not, said passenger can go buy an alternative meal in the airport?

And to whom should one address a letter or email at the airline complaining about such experiences? Or is it just hopeless?

Andrea Sachs: First, as a vegetarian, I never trust the airlines. They don't know their chicken from their beef. I always bring my own food. However, I agree that they should not be advertising these meals if they are not serving them. Sometimes they simply run out, other times they never had them from the get-go. Best to call the airline after you book and confirm that you have a meat-free meal. If they say they don't have veg meals, see if they kosher or Muslim meals, which often have more meat-free components.

You could write a letter to the airline, but I am not sure how far you will get. But it's better to shout about it than stay quiet.

P.S. If you can fly Singapore Airlines, do. They treat their vegetarians like kings.

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Well, thanks: Usually I read these chats and bemoan my lack of vacation time and fat bank account to travel around. Today I'm feeling grateful to have dodged some pretty horrible hotel experiences!

Scott Vogel: I'm with YOU.

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Old Orchard Beach: Is "tacky and touristy". Ogunquit, Wells, and other villages up the coast are quaint, scenic and so much better.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the warning!

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Alexandria, Va.: We're looking to visit Chicago for a 3 day week jaunt; what kind of airfare prices should be consider "a good deal"?

Also, I booked a trip to San Juan a few months back, direct flight out of Reagan, just got a new flight schedule and it includes a layover; if I call and complain will that get me anywhere or is it a waste of time - the trip isn't until October so the schedule will most likely change again.

Christina Talcott: If you can find something under $200 to Chicago, jump on it. As for the flight changes, I'm not sure. Anyone have advice on that topic?

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SW D.C.: Worst hotel - family trip, Toronto downtown high-rise many years ago. Fire alarm goes off - there's a real fire in a towel closet. As guests in various states of dress head down the stairs (with a screaming maid running past us at one point), we empty into the lobby where it's business as normal - people are checking in, dining at the lobby restaurant, etc. Staff completely ignores the increasing masses of pajama-wearing patrons (figuring that if they pretend there's not a problem maybe there really isn't one). Never got an apology - in fact, while checking out later the staff pretended nothing ever happened.

Worst rowdy crowd - around 2 a.m. a kid pulled the fire alarm so hard out of the wall that the hotel couldn't get it to turn off for some 30 minutes - during which time what had to have been the entire Cincinnati fire department surrounds the Hyatt.

Scott Vogel: More incendiary stories...

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McLean, Va.: If Falls Church is tired of the mountain scene in the Adirondacks and Vermont, may I point out that three Canadian cities -- Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec -- are all within 6-7 hours driving time. For a one-week family trip, you could do two days in each city with an easy 3 hours drive from city to city.

Christina Talcott: Great, thanks!

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Washington, DC: I predict the airlines' charging for the first checked bag is going to backfire on them. I almost never check bags. If an airlines now tries to make me check my bag--and charge me for it--you can bet I am going to put up a big stink. Also, now more people will try to just do carry-ons, so the boarding process is going to be slower and more fraught (I predict a lot of arguments between passengers about who is taking up what overhead space). I cannot imagine that the $15 per bag charge will be worth it for the airline and I pity the gate and crew personnel.

John Deiner: Hey, DC. I hope you're right (heck, we ALL hope you're right), but I have a bad feeling about this. I think carryon space is going to be tighter, but there will still be many people like our previous poster who will check their bags because of the liquid regulations. So people will start paying to check a bag and get used to it and then -- boom! -- it'll be just the way it is. But as you suggest, maybe enough big stinks will lead to the fees being dropped.

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Alexandria, Va.: A couple things.

1. I traveled between DCA and Boston this weekend and noticed that everyone and their uncle was avoiding checked baggage and bringing unruly, massive carry-ons. Thank god we get to pre-board because of our young child, because there were tons of verbal fights over the overhead space. Why are the airlines not enforcing size/weight restrictions for carry ons?

2. People have gotten more and more rude. My daughter is less than a year old and caught a bit of a cold while we were away. On the way back the change in cabin pressure really hurt her ears because of her congestion, and nothing we did made it any better. We tried bottles and pacifiers and snacks. We tried games and books and distractions, but she was in pain and cried for about 45 mins. I know it is annoying when kids howl, but the morons who were yelling at us to "shut the kid up" were not helping matters. It is not like we were ignoring her. She was simply not getting any relief, and she is an infant! Why do people assume that they are entitled to total peace and quiet? And why are people so nasty?

Carol Sottili: That's awful. I know it's annoying to have kids cry on a plane, but they can't help it. I'm one of those people who smile and offer to help. As for the overhead bin problems, I'm with you. That's why everyone wants to board first. I think the airline personnel are overwhelmed. Enforcement takes people.

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Worst Hotel Nights: One was a business trip in Reno, where my very large room strangely had no bed. There was a large sofa, so as a young, novice traveler I assumed it must be a pull-out. I had arrived very late at night and was exhausted, so after spending 15 minutes trying very hard to locate the pull-out bed and pull it out, I gave up and slept on the uncomfortable couch with no bedding. The next morning when I called downstairs I was astonished to learn that the opposite wall housed a Murphy bed.

On another business trip in New York, I checked in and went to my room, surprised to have been given the penthouse of a large mid-town hotel. I called down to verify the rate, and it was fine, so I decided to relax and enjoy the amenities, including a spa tub. At about 2:00 a.m., there was a pounding and yelling at the door. I did not to open it; but it turned out to be a woman with my same name who is a top executive with a national pharmaceutical company. The desk had made a mistake and she wanted her room! I refused, figuring possession was nine-tenths of the law. The desk called and told me I would have to change rooms right then, but I stood firm, saying that I would vacate by check-out time the next day and no sooner, and that I expected to be comped for the inconvenience. Then I took the phone off the hook. Unfortunately, I couldn't get back to sleep and had to avoid that woman who was there for the same conference, but it was worth it.

Scott Vogel: Good for you -- and good to know that those high prices for pharmaceuticals are going to a good cause.

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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Crew,

Submitting early on this one. Do you or the readers have any advice on where to stay in Roatan? We'll be traveling to the island for some R-and-R (and snorkeling) for the last part of our honeymoon and just can't decide on a hotel. Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks for the chats!

Christina Talcott: Anyone out there with advice?

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Washington, D.C.: Overnight: I was woken up at 3 am on an Alaskan cruise by a blaring announcement of man overboard. Turns out the guy was just hanging off the boat and was rescued (lucky for him -- I can't imagine he would have found in the blackness even if he could survive the frigid water temperatures for a little while). After the blaring the captain ordered all hands on deck but advised passengers to stay in their cabins and go back to sleep (oh sure!).

Scott Vogel:"just hanging off the boat" -- and that would be ... WHY?

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Native New Jerseyan: I love Cape May, although my bank account does not allow me to stay at ritzy places. I have seen the website of the Virginian Hotel, and it looks very nice. Anyone out there to confirm? As far as activities, I would suggest the bird sanctuary, walking the beach and enjoying walking amidst all the Victorian homes. And the Beach Theatre has been saved. Please patronize it. I only do moderate restaurants - so Zoe's doesn't qualify, although I do like their breakfasts. Oh, we got take out seafood from the place right as you come in to Cape May - it's been on the Food Network, always packed - along the channel - we had stuffed shrimp and shrimp imperial as we waited for the ferry. Fabulous.

Carol Sottili: Thanks!

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London (Crouch End): I must, sadly, say that I was quite disappointed reading the section about Crouch End and Muswell Hill in the article "A Londoner's London". Although I am not an authority on the area - I've only lived here for a few years - and obviously people are going to disagree about things like "Most Charming" or "Prettiest" anything, the section felt incomplete. Oddly, since the author is based there. It skipped the transportation forms that do have stations there (including the Underground station that is a short walk to Highgate and Queen's Woods) and one of the other major bus routes that goes from Finsbury Park station to/through it - and, strangely enough, the W3 is the bus route that actually stops conveniently by the farmers' market at Alexandra Palace, the "most charming feature" - used unnecessarily sexist hyperbole (obviously we should not believe "every woman is pushing a stroller while balancing her latte and cellphone," but why ignore the many, many men who are out on the pavement pushing strollers while drinking something from one of the coffee shops and carrying their cellphones?); and does not bother to name any celebrities, past or present, just weakly says "nearly all of them are actors recognizable only to Americans with a BBC habit", suggesting that the author is only repeating something she's heard, and that she's never heard a name.

I don't know if there was an editorial decision made to chop some of the article for space or if the author left things out by her own choice, but quite frankly - and the editor in me cringes writing this - a reader would have been better served if you had simply included links to the Wikipedia entries for Muswell Hill and Crouch End.

After reading that section, I don't know why anyone would bother to visit here unless it is to visit someone specific. In truth, the greatest draw is probably the arts scene, as there are numerous musicians in the area, many opportunities to enjoy live music, many very engaging established and up-and-coming artists whose work is often on display in local shops and exhibits, many authors who work in local cafes and libraries, and yes, many actors who appear from time to time - including Andy Serkis and Mackenzie Crook.

Andrea Sachs: Sorry you found the piece so disappointing, but the article was just an overview over these areas. An appetizer of sorts. For the whole meal, you have to go there.

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Alexandria, Va.: My worst hotel experience was in Agra, India. I was 6 months pregnant and living in South India. We had to make a trip to Delhi anyway, so we decided to see the Taj. It was (literally) 114 degrees in the shade, and we got back from sightseeing exhausted. We had paid a small fortune to stay at 5 star hotel in one of their best rooms, and we only had enough money for a one night stay.

Apparently we forgot that it was some important holiday, and at 4 am these massive carts began rolling down the streets blaring religious music. It was so loud that the pictures on the walls were rattling and the bed was vibrating. This continued until they ran out of religious music at about 7 AM and started in with Bollywood soundtracks. All my husband and I could do was laugh, and the baby kicked away the entire time.

Scott Vogel: Great stuff -- I can (sort of) picture it.

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Rockville, Md.: hotel horror...visiting the churches in Ethiopia. Didn't have much cash left so opted for the local hotel. I have stayed in plenty of shared bath hotels before, so I didn't flinch when the manager mentioned it. I should have. Shared bath in this case was an 8 x 5 room with a few holes in the ground for doing one's business. No dividers, no paper, and a smell beyond belief!

Scott Vogel: One word: ick.

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For the person who can't fit all of her stuff in a quart-size bag:: Do you really need to bring all of this stuff with you? I understand the medications that can't be obtained abroad, but I really think that common products like shampoo/conditioner/sunscreen/toothpaste can all be bought at the same time, in a single store, pretty much anywhere in Europe. It hardly requires hunting all over to find those things. And yes, I have traveled extensively in Europe.

John Deiner: Ya know, if she wants to check her bag so she can bring the stuff she wants and not have to hunt down the precise brands she likes, who cares? Why can't people travel the way they want? Plus, she's happy she can bring a change of clothes. What's so wrong with that?

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Tacoma, Wash.: I am submitting early since I will be unavailable.

From last week's chat someone had mentioned of doing a family reunion near the water and mountains and was thinking San Juan Islands.

The San Juan islands are nice to visit for an overnight or a weekend. For a week you will lose your mind because you are going to be isolated. There are no bridges to the islands. Only ferries or small planes. If you want to take a trip to Seattle or the mountains it would be an adventure.

I would suggest you look to stay someplace like Bellingham, Blaine, or Anacortez on the east side of the sound or Port Townsend or Port Angeles on the west side. From Bellingham you could easily take day trips to Seattle and to the Cascades (and North Cascades National Park) as well as take day trips up to Vancouver. On the east side you could take ferries to Seattle, or to Victoria, and you have Olympic Nation Park.

Also the San Juan islands have an exceptionally high cost of living because of how isolated they are.

Other options of places would be Portland.

With such a large group you are going to have different interests so you want to cater to all of them by having flexibility.

A few weeks ago someone posted a reply that said an issue with an open jaw ticket that the middle part needs to be shortest. In general this is true but if this involves a cruise then it's different if booking the travel as a package with the cruise. Many cruises, like Alaskan cruises, are one-way cruises.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks so much for helping out the Reunioner.

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McLean, Va.: Several years ago I was booked at the Fairmont York in Toronto for a conference. Unfortunately, there was an ice machine right outside my door, which people used all hours of the day and night, until I taped an Out of Order sign on the ice machine. Problem solved.

Scott Vogel: I've slept next to ice machines for years, and I could kick myself for never having had your idea. Terrific stuff!

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Judiciary Square: Hi crew, I have a general type of question, with the rise in jet fuel prices and airlines constantly rising their fares, how accurate are sites like farecompare or farecast these days? I mean how do those sites keep up with the fares when the airlines themselves are having such major money issues, surely sale dates from historical data aren't going to be as accurate in this kind of market are they?

You all do a great job each week. Thanks.

Carol Sottili: I think they do a fairly good job. It's not perfect, but the software is pretty sophisticated.

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Layover time: I am trying to book a flight to San Antonio, and one of the alternatives is a stop in Detroit, with 35 minutes for the connection. Is that enough?

Andrea Sachs: I would say no.

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Falls Church, Va.: My worst hotel was in my favorite city, Paris. Our room, without air conditioning, was on the 5th floor. As a hot sleeper, the lack of a/c wouldn't have normally mattered in February, since we could open the windows, but our room faced a truck and train depot that operated all night long. Every night of our 4 in Paris was windows open and banging and back up beeping OR windows shut and tossing and turning all night long. I got sick towards the end from being so run down and missed the Louvre.

Scott Vogel: I think we've all had a few nights like yours in Paris, sadly.

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For the Niagara bound - how to get there:: You didn't completely answer the question:

I suggest they drive - for 4 people, even with gas prices, it's a lot less than flying. They can make it in under 12 hours going the speed limit.

And I agree with your partial answer: Canadian side - no contest.

John Deiner: That adds two days to the trip -- not sure how much time they have altogether, but if I could find a cheapish fare to Buffalo (still possible), I'd rather be there in under two hours than driving for a full day.

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Reston, Va.: About Niagara Falls - I really enjoyed the jet boat tour - you get really close to the falls www.whirlpooljet.com (boarded on Canadian side) and the Cave of the Winds www.niagarafallsstatepark.com Info about the Canadian side can be found at www.niagaraparks.com

John Deiner: Cool! Great stuff, and thanks for the links.

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Falls Church, Va.: Hello! I'm looking for options for a girls' weekend, ideally within driving distance of D.C. Our plans would include sitting at the pool (with drink service), good dinners, and possibly a spa. Shopping and nightlife options would be a plus, but not necessary. Any ideas? Thank you.

Andrea Sachs: Annapolis, perhaps, or Easton, which has great dining. Or Cape May.

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Md.: On a business trip with a group of people, and since I was "new" I had to host a social hour in my room for everyone prior to us all heading out for dinner. The highest ranking official had just opened a beer, grabbed some wings, and started to say something, but he was drowned out by my neighbors who were getting a head start on a little, um, amorous activity. Loud doesn't even do it justice. With anyone else, it would have been funny - as it was, I just wanted to crawl under the floor.

Scott Vogel: Un. Real. I hope for your sake that the wings were good.

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Charles Town, WV: I have stayed several times in the Carriage Inn - http://www.carriageinn.com/- ask for the Copper Beech Suite - best bed ever. And walking distance to the track/slots if you like that.

John Deiner: You guys are rockin' today -- great suggestions for our Harpers Ferry friend.

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Delaware: Re: Cape May. Didn't you guys do a story on where to stay in Cape May in the past year or two? I'd look for it but am too lazy; it may help the person headed to CM, though.

washingtonpost.com: This has fun stuff galore: Jersey Shore guide (Washington Post Travel Section)

Carol Sottili: Your memory is better than mine. Thanks.

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Alexandria, Va.: For the woman last week thinking about flying Qatar Airlines: My wife flew Qatar Airlines by herself back in March from IAD to Kuala Lumpur. She had no problems whatsoever, and would fly them again.

In Doha, you might want to take advantage of the Oryx Lounge for your 6 hour layover. Inside are more comfortable chairs than in the terminal, showers, internet access, snacks, drinks, and it costs $25 (plus or minus a little due to exchange rate flux).

Andrea Sachs: Thanks much for the Qatar report.

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For the Niagara Falls visitors: They could stay on Grand Island (NY) where there is a nice amusement park, Fantasy Island just right for kids their ages. There is also Beaver Island State park which has a great beach. They are not far from Buffalo to take in a Bisons Baseball game. The Canadian side is expensive especially with the Exchange rate now. The lines across the bridge can be very long. I definitely second the trip to Andersons' for custard and famous Beef on Weck sandwiches.

John Deiner: Don't we all miss the good ol' days when Canada was a friend to our wallet? Top-notch suggestions here -- always wanted to check out Grand Island myself.

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Oakton, Va.: Don't know if it will help, but the email address for United baggage services at Dulles is lostarticles.iadcs@united.com.

United 1K flyer.

Carol Sottili: We'll take it! Thanks.

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For couple thinking of maybe vacationing in the Azores this fall: The city of Angra do Heroismo, on the island of Terceira in the Azores, holds an international-caliber jazz festival the first weekend in October each year. They haven't yet posted their 2008 lineup, but you can read (in English) re previous years' festivals by clicking on http://www.angrajazz.com/history.htm

I've read elsewhere online that trumpeter Tom Harrell (whose birthday is today, BTW!) is scheduled to play on Thursday evening, October 2:

http://gruvr.com/show/935814

Performers in recent years have included Benny Golson's Sextet (remember him from the Tom Hanks movie "Terminal"? How's that for a travel tie-in?), the Jim Hall Trio, Joe Lovano's Nonet, the Bruce Barth Trio with Vanessa Rubin and Carla Cook, the Bill Charlap Trio, and New Orlean's legendary Preservation Hall Jazz Band.

John Deiner: Good stuff...thanks for putting your two cents in!

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McLean, Va.: While the southern beaches in Maine are nice enough, I think that the real Maine begins on the Penobscot Bay. For those who want a real Downeast experience, I recommend Stonington, at the tip of Deer Isle.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the Maine tips, McL.

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Rowdy hotel story: Two years ago, my cousin got married in his very small home town. We were staying at the local motel (the only one in town). It was also hunting season, so every morning around 3 or 4 am we were awakened by the hunters stomping around, getting their beer-filled coolers, and gunning their engines right outside our door. One morning, one guy stood outside our door and bellowed to his fellow hunters: "SO ARE YOU GUYS READY TO GO KILL SOMETHING???!!!"

It's just a really good thing we didn't have a gun ourselves.

Scott Vogel: Ahahaha -- The things you see when you don't have your gun, as grandma used to say.

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For the infant with ear pain: On future flights, to relieve your little one's ear pain due to congestion, try Earplanes earplugs. There are separate products for children and adults. The children's version works for kids from age 1 to 10, so your daughter might not be able to use them yet, but do stock them for future flights. You can find them at drugstore.com, travel stores, or sometimes local drugstores. They save people with colds from sometimes excruciating pain when the cabin pressure changes. And finally, my sympathy about the jerks who yelled at you and your child; some people have no empathy.

Carol Sottili: Thanks!

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Arlington, Va.: re: does anyone really study a language? I did. Before my second trip to Thailand last fall I took the Arlington Adult Ed "Beginning Thai" class. I found it to be fun and fairly helpful. Our teacher was a lot of fun. I was able to tell my taxi driver which way to turn when he had no clear idea where we were going. So that was quite helpful. And I was able to communicate a little with my driver on a trip to the Northeast for a few days. He spoke a little bit of English. I was able to understand a bit more when people were saying things, but my biggest problem was formulating the correct response. However when I did manage to say anything anywhere close to correct people were very impressed and praised my ability to speak Thai. I think they were just being nice though.

Christina Talcott: Wow, it sounds like that added so much to your trip, and I'm sure people WERE impressed! Now that you mention classes, I just remembered that my parents took French classes at the Department of Agriculture grad school before a two-week trip to France. And a friend of mine who taught Italian at a community college occasionally got students who were going to Italy for vacation and wanted to know the language. What a great way to get psyched for a trip!

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Reston, Va.: My hubby and I are planning to visit Sweden later this summer (his sister is temporarily working there until Nov). We plan to stay a week to 10 days - any suggestions about the must see/must do attractions?? Thanks!

washingtonpost.com: Dalaro and the Deep Blue Sea (Post Travel Section, May 18)

Scott Vogel: Running out of time here, but hopefully this will help!

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Washington, D.C.: Answer to the person asking why I don't just buy conditioner, shampoo, etc: cost.

A co-worker had to buy dental floss in France last fall and it cost $13.

Makes that $15 per checked bag look cheap.

John Deiner: I'm with you. Check the bag and enjoy your trip.

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About Russell Square, London: Everybody should be forewarned that there are no escalators in that tube station, but there is a spiral staircase with 177(!) steps. I'm not overly claustrophobic, but I'm shaking just recalling that descent.

There are elevators (lifts), but depending on time of day that can be a claustrophobic experience as well.

Christina Talcott: Yikes! That's a lot of stairs. Thanks for the warning.

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Seattle or Vancouver: Try the Lopez islands, about an hour from Seattle and accessible via car ferry. Numerous BnB's, nice restaurants, great romantic getaway from the hustle of Seattle. (unless you've never been to Seattle in which case EXPLORE!)

Scott Vogel: Thanks, and back to the 20-somethings question -- Check out the Vessel Bar in downtown Seattle. Sit in a front window for a good look at the scene...

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Boston: I'll defend Iceland - it was fun and easy. Super-relaxing, interesting, and perfect for a long weekend. We went for two nights in December and wouldn't have needed much more time than that. Yes, the Blue Lagoon is of course phenomenal, but Reykjavik is very sweet (reminded me of a cross between Cambridge and Salem, MA), easy to walk around and get the hang of, and there's great coffee. If you're looking for fun and easy (and yes, great nightlife), Reykjavik is it; if you want more of an adventure, check out the Azores. In terms of the exchange rate (and granted, this was two years ago), it was a little worse than New York - so definitely not as bad as London, Paris, etc.

John Deiner: Boston to the rescue. Somewhere, Icelanders are smiling. Well, I guess that would be Iceland, but you get the point. Thanks for the defense...

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Alexandria, Va: My worst hotel stay actually was apart of my worst travel day ever. I was in Hartford, CT on business and was leaving the next day. Everything at the hotel was fine the limited time I spent in there the first day. I woke up the next morning to take a shower and opened the curtain once I finished to see Redrum spelled on the bathroom mirror exactly how it was written in the Shining. I kind of stood in the shower for a few mins. not believing what I was seeing. I then quickly got out to check to make sure the door was locked. I then ordered room service before I had to leave for a meeting and it took 30 mins. past the time frame it was supposed to come almost causing me to be late. This eventually led to me getting a flat tire in the rental car and then locking the keys inside with my luggage before the tow truck driver came to get it. Not a good day at all.

Scott Vogel: Ooooh -- cruel joke.

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Thirteenth Street: I am okay with paying to check my bag rather than wrangling an overstuffed carry-on, but in return, the airline should let me board first and choose my own seat. It is a win-win, as it incentivizes paying to check bags, speeds up boarding and frees up overhead space for those who like to schlep their stuff. It is only fair that those of us who are willing to pay to check a bag not have to wait for those who are trying to negotiate overhead space.

John Deiner: Interesting concept, 13th. You ever think of running an airline? Boarding, as we know, can be a nightmare.

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Philadelphia: Just a comment (and I don't want the prize, if you think it should be in the running), but my family's worst hotel experience was an overnight stay at the Marriott World Trade Center - arriving September 10, 2001, with an intended check-out the next day. The family member got out safely, but never actually checked out. Still, that's made all other experiences - rowdy neighbors, smoke in non-smoking rooms, etc. - pale in comparison.

As for the family with the crying baby, I'm sorry about your experience, but there have been many times I've been in flights with children screaming about having to wear a seatbelt or running up and down the aisles whose parents simply ignore them. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the intolerant people who weren't helping you have experienced the same thing, and so were just taking their frustrations out on you. It isn't fair to anyone involved, but - and I don't know, maybe this wasn't an option - if my baby had a cold, I would have rented a car for that trip. It's just cruel to take one on a plane, knowing there will be painful air pressure changes that will only be aggravated by his or her cold.

Scott Vogel: Thanks -- something to bear in mind amid all our complaining.

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Berlin, Md.: For Baltimore from last week, who was meeting her husband in Switzerland: Great choice of place to meet! Switzerland is beautiful and it's very easy to get around by train. I suggest you check into getting a Swiss Rail pass, which lets you ride all public busses, trains, and lake steamers. The lake steamers are great fun just to ride around and see the wonderful little lake towns. To get the best price, I think you have to get the rail pass before you arrive in Switzerland.

Scott Vogel: A note regarding last week's chat.

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Falls Church, VA: I'm going to a friend's wedding near Rochester, NY over Labor Day weekend. I can't decide whether to drive or fly. Direct flights are around $400 round-trip and I don't want to do a flight with a layover on Labor Day weekend. Driving supposedly would only take about 6 hours, taking Route 15 most of the way. Thoughts?

Carol Sottili: I think I'd drive, as long as you have flexibility. If you can get up really early on both ends and get it over with, or drive late, you should be fine as far as traffic is concerned. But I'd still keep tracking the airfares, hoping for a good sale.

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Camping in Maine: Hi Travel Gurus,

This year I thought I was going to be one of the few brave souls to embark on a road trip. We are planning to drive to Boston (from DC) and then up to Maine, hoping to camp in Acadia. I just found out that the national parks take reservations online, and that Acadia is sold out the week we are planning! I don't really know much else up there, and we really would like to camp for a few days (to offset gas/hotel costs).

Do you have recommendations? I'm totally bummed out. I went to Acadia as a kid and still think of it as the best place on Earth.

Thanks!

Christina Talcott: What a gorgeous part of the world! I found a list of campgrounds near Acadia and in the general Down East area on http://maineoutdoors.com/camping/camp_downeast.shtml. You should also check back with Acadia from time to time to see if there are any cancellations. You might get lucky!

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Richmond, Va.: After a great experience on my first cruise (QM2), I would like to plan a Mediterranean cruise for the fall. Cunard has some cruises, but they are pretty expensive. I will be traveling with a 3 yr old, so I don't really get to use the nicer dining or evening entertainment. Any suggestions for a family friendly ship? I especially want to see Turkey and Greece.

Andrea Sachs: Check out Holland America, Norwegian Cruise Line, Princess and Royal Caribbean. These lines are well-priced and have kids clubs and activities.

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Cape May suggestions !!!!!: Definitely check out the Lobster House in Cape May. AMAZING seafood, but get there early or be prepared to wait at least an hour.

Carol Sottili: Danke.

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Going to Disney World, Md.: And I'm not even a celebrity... We're driving this August to WDW for a three-day visit, and I wanted to ping your crew for suggestions on roadside attractions along the way (I-95 south, the usual route one takes). And if you were of a mind to recommend a mid-way one-night stopover location - favorite small town, best one-night hotel in N.C. or S.C., etc., that would be appreciated, too. Thanks.

washingtonpost.com: About 20 years ago when I was in high school my family drove from D.C. to Orlando and back for spring break (ah, that VW van!). We stopped in Savannah, Ga. one way and Charleston, S.C. the other and I remember both vividly even though our stays were so short. - Elizabeth

Scott Vogel: Thanks to our chat host, Elizabeth!

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washingtonpost.com: Cape May: B-and-Bs and You (Post Travel Section, June 24, 2007)

Scott Vogel: Here's a link for the Cape May bound.

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Scott Vogel: Okay, guys, I think you all made me feel better about my miserable hotel experience last week. I've gotta give the prize to the chatter in the boat with the urinating patriotic neighbor. Thanks for playing, everyone, and will the winner please e-mail me your address at vogelsi@washpost.com? Thanks, and see ya next week!

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