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Wednesday, July 2, 2008; 11:00 AM
In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?
Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.
The transcript follows.
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Washington, D.C.: Are you back yet?
Tom Sietsema: I am! I am! And glad to be home and chatting with you this morning.
First, a big thanks to all of you readers, tipsters, chefs and friends who kept me abreast of all the restaurant news while I was out of town. Man, there was enough activity on the scene here to fuel a month's worth of chat transcripts and Dish columns!
Among other news:
Colorado Kitchen is closed.
Bart Seaver has left the kitchen at Hook.
Michael Landrum has launched Ray's Hell-Burger, at 1713 Wilson Boulevard in Arlington.
The RAMMYS were handed out. (Congrats to all the winners.)
But you already know all that, right? So let's get started. Who want to pose the first question?
washingtonpost.com: 2008 RAMMY Award Winners
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Washington, D.C.: What is a good place to have breakfast at/near Eastern Market on a weekday?
Tom Sietsema: I adore Market Lunch on Seventh St. SE for breakfast. It's got a lot of character, and if you order what I typically order -- "The Brick" -- you won't need to eat again until dinner.
washingtonpost.com: Market Lunch
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Don't forget...: Butterfield 9 kaput!
Tom Sietsema: Ah, yes. I had one of the better meals I've ever had there about five months ago, too, so I was surprised to learn of its demise this week.
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Wishing I was in Spain Street NW: Tom--
Where can I get some great gazpacho to help me beat the summer heat? (Although we're not suffering from it too badly right now!)
Tom Sietsema: I dig the chunky beet gazpacho that Carole Greenwood makes at Buck's Fishing & Camping. It's atypical, but delicious. For something more traditional, try the bowl at Jaleo.
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Best Brunch in the City?: Tom --
Where do you think the best brunch in the city is? Prefer to stay in the District, no buffet and accepts reservations. Thanks!
Tom Sietsema: I think Tabard Inn in Dupont Circle does a great job of offering both sweet and savory dishes. Not everyone wants eggs or French toast and this kitchen goes beyond serving routine brunch fare. Plus, with the recent closing of Colorado Kitchen, it's nice to know about a place where I can get my donut fix on Sundays.
washingtonpost.com: 2007 Fall Dining Guide: The Tabard Inn
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Brasserie Beck: Have you eaten here recently?
Your review of the place was quite good, so I have to admit I was really surprised when I went recently. I thought the fries were really bland and dry; my ice cream was freezer-burnt; and the food was just not great for the price. Was I just there on an off-night or has the place gone down hill?
Tom Sietsema: I last visited Beck about three months after my review, so I don't feel qualified to weigh in on the Belgian restaurant at the moment. Can anyone else come to this poster's aid?
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Washington, D.C.: Sorry for such a pedestrian question -- but what is your favorite seafood restaurant in our region?
Tom Sietsema: You might be surprised to read this, but I think Oceanaire Seafood Room -- a seafood house by way of Minneapolis -- does a first-rate job with (much of) its cooking and service. Plus, it's as lively a setting as you can find.
That said, I also enjoy parts of Pesce, Hank's Oyster Bar and Kinkead's here in the city.
washingtonpost.com: Oceanaire
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RE: Colorado Kitchen Closing: Just a comment/tirade about the passing of Colorado Kitchen (although I'm sure you'll be getting a ton of these, I need to submit early because I'll be out of town on the chat day) -- I'm beyond irritated about this.
Despite the questionable service and the consistent disdain chef Gillian Clark offered to those of us willing to make our way to the Brightwood spot, I have defended her many, many times to friends and family. We were what you would call regulars -- those who would stake out the Saturday brunch line starting at 10:40am. We were on her e-mail list as soon as it launched. We cheerfully accepted it when her hostess wouldn't seat our two-top at one of two available four-tops, causing us to wait 45 minutes before ordering. We kept our heads lowered when a newbie made the grave mistake of touching some of chef's wall kitch, and was met with a stern dressing down. We even said thank you to the chef after the meal, even though our comments often are met with just a blank stare. In other words, we liked her quirks and accepted them along with the complimentary biscuit at dinner time.
And after having our first baby we never dreamed of violating her anti-child rules -- despite her still being a sleepy infant -- and instead took advantage of every single babysitting family member in order to keep up with the changing menu at Colorado Kitchen. In fact, we were there just last weekend, scoring a rare night out because my mother-in-law was in town.
Now, apparently that was be our last visit to a place we've frequented for nearly seven years. And you wouldn't have known it if you were there that night. She made no announcement to her loyal fans, no e-mail exhortation to take advantage of a final meal there, and would not even give a straight answer to the news media who finally broke her story.
I am frustrated that I defended this person to so many for so long. It is apparent that she doesn't actually like her customers. She wants to wear a clean chef jacket and do what? Talk to us at our tables? That's about as likely as free a la mode at her place. GSPOT be damned, I certainly won't be searching it out.
Tom Sietsema: I'm sure Ms. Clark has reasons for the abrupt shuttering of her restaurant and would be happy to post any farewell message she might have for her loyal customers -- many of whom, like yourself, told me they were upset not to have been given more notice.
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The Best Compliment . . . for Achievement D.C. Rammy: Duke Zeibert Achievement Award.
I just wanted to say Tom, You made the best compliment and tribute to honor Phyllis Richman. It was well deserved and it was recognized on a grand scale. Thank you for showing you passion for your work and devotion to your work also.
Tom Sietsema: I was really honored to be asked to write something on behalf of my fabulous mentor and friend. Since several readers asked about it, I thought I'd share the text here:
From 1977 to 2000, if you cared about what you ate, if you wanted to know where to spend your dining dollars, if you were curious about the latest food fashions, you had to read Phyllis Richman.
Her weekly restaurant dispatches, be they from Potomac or Paris, read like letters from a trusted friend looking out for your best interests. She was no snob. She loved barbecue straight out of the smoker in the countryside as much as she enjoyed foie gras terrine eaten off Villeroy & Boch in the big city. Barbecue maybe more, actually. Phyllis was always fiercely democratic, evinced in part by the Cheeto dust her staff used to spot on her keyboard. (But you didn't hear that from me.)
For her legions of fans, the most amazing detail is not the estimated 1.15 million words she typed for her weekly restaurant column alone, but rather, the freshness, the fairness and the wit that she lavished on her copy right through her 23rd year as restaurant critic for The Washington Post. For sure, she was tough. Newsweek didn't call her "the most feared woman in Washington" for nothing. But as someone who worked closely with her for four years, I can also attest to her hard work and devotion. At one point, Phyllis was both food editor and restaurant critic, responsible for putting out two Food sections a week and two dining guides a year.
One of Phyllis's parting pieces of advice to me eight years ago this summer was this: "It never gets easier." She was referring to writing, but to read what she wrote, at any point in her illustrious career, Phyllis made it all look so easy -- in the same way that Washington's best chefs make what they do look so easy, when if fact their success is built on passion, imagination and practice, practice, practice.
Perhaps the best compliment anyone could give tonight's honoree, a woman who has given the community so much, would be to compare her to some of the subjects she covered so well and for so long. My recipe to describe Phyllis Richman would surely combine Patrick O'Connell's wit, Michel Richard's magic, Jose Andre's experimentation, Frank Ruta's polish, Bob Kinkead's loyalty, Eric Ziebold's freshness, Cathal Armstrong's focus and Jean Louis Palladin's star power.
What a sumptuous dish!
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Need HELP in Washington D.C.!: Tom,
I need your help! I would like to purchase a restaurant gift certificate for a good friend and her husband-to-be as a wedding present. Can you please suggest a romantic setting for a newlywed couple to enjoy a fancy dinner? She eats everything, he's a vegetarian. I was thinking of spending between $200-$250. Thank you!
Tom Sietsema: I'd give them a certificate to Rasika, one of my favorite Indian restaurants in the country, along with a pair of ear plugs. (The place can be deafening at rush hour.)
washingtonpost.com: 2007 Dining Guide: Rasika
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Washington, D.C.: And Meridian closed. Too bad -- it was a bright spot in Petworth, just not bright enough.
Tom Sietsema: Yep, add Meridian to the list of closures, too.
washingtonpost.com: 2008 Review: Meridian
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College Park, Md.: Tom,
I'm looking for a good restaurant in the D.C. area to take my husband for his birthday this Saturday night. Atmosphere is important, but the quality of the food is the most important factor. Any recommendations?
Tom Sietsema: Gosh, what kind of food do you like? How much do you want to spend? Where do you want to find yourselves? There are tons of answers to your question, ma'am.
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Capitol Hill, Va.: Tom,
Welcome back. My parents are coming in this weekend and I'm drawing somewhat of a blank for dinner Saturday night. Four people, Italian, American, Steak, or Seafood. Went to BlackSalt last time they were in town (which was wonderful) but Mom is looking for something more moderate this time around. I have a reservation at Charlie Palmer which I thought would be good, but possibly a little too expensive. Metro accessible is good but not necessary. Thanks.
Tom Sietsema: For Italian, Al Tiramisu on P St. is almost always enjoyable. For American, try Vermilion in Old Town. And what about a French cut (of steak) at Westend by Eric Ripert? All are reachable by Metro.
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Soon to be west coaster: Tom,
I am moving to San Francisco next week. How on earth do I begin to navigate the sea of restaurants out there? Anyone out there run a chat like this?
Tom Sietsema: The Bay Area has lots of good critics. I'd follow the Chronicle (sfgate.com) for Michael Bauer's reviews and San Francisco Magazine for the thoughts of Josh Sens. Neither does a chat that I know of, but Bauer writes a popular blog.
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Richmond, Va.: After reading that description of Colorado Kitchen, it sounds like D.C. had it's very own version of Seinfeld's "Soup Nazi." The food must have been more than excellent to put up with that crap!
Tom Sietsema: One thing I learned long ago in this business: There are two, and sometimes more, sides to every story.
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Gaithersburg, Md.: Have you been to Corduroy's new location yet? I had a pretty mixed meal there last week. I don't think I would've been disappointed in it, except for the number of nearly perfect meals I had at the old location. It was cool to see Chef Powers up front and in the kitchen though! A few complaints:
-They were out of two appetizers and two entrees
-They were out of our first choice of wine
-Our lamb was overcooked, even though they preemptively caught it the first time.
-Our waiter actually said "It's not my fault!" about the lamb. Was that necessary? Really?
The good:
-The food is still good
-The restaurant is prettier
-They comped the table a round of lobster salad about the first lamb mishap.
Tom Sietsema: The menu at Corduroy is not that long, so I can understand your disappointment with finding fewer choices. But it was nice of the kitchen to send out a lobster salad in light of the overcooked lamb!
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Restaurant K: Buh bye!
Tom Sietsema: Wow. Yes. K St. is definitely not the place to open a restaurant these days, is it?
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
Need a quiet, romantic special occasion restaurant for dinner at the end of this month. Your last review of L'Auberge Chez Francois was good, but it is also very old (2002). Still worth it or is there someplace else along the same lines that is better these days?
Tom Sietsema: If you're looking for something romantic and Old World, you can't beat the dreamy, fabric-draped Taberna del Alabardero on I St. downtown. For something more contemporary, I'd suggest the (relocated) Corduroy restaurant on 9th St. NW, which has banned background music. The food at the former is Spanish; the cooking at the latter is modern American.
washingtonpost.com: 2007 Fall Dining Guide: Taberna del Alabardero
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Self-Fulfilling Prophecies: My boyfriend and I went to Jaleo a couple of Saturdays ago for dinner. We were seated near two older, well-to-do couples on a double date. My boyfriend and I were neatly dressed, but didn't ooze affluence like the couples next to us.
Our waiter basically dropped us like a cheating boyfriend -- meanwhile, fawning over the table next to ours. It was ridiculous and extremely obvious, as he would check in on them frequently then walk right past us as we sat there with empty glasses and no food.
I assume the other table looked like better tippers than we did, so they got the bulk of the server's focus. As it turns out, it was a self-fulfilling prophecy. As we felt utterly ignored and insulted, we left the bare minimum - 18 percent, down to the penny. We normally leave more than 20 percent.
So, the waiter lost out on what would have been a much nicer tip. I thought about bringing it to a manager's attention (which I usually do), but by then we were tired, cranky and just wanted to go home.
Tom Sietsema: Note to servers: Never judge a customer based on his or her appearance! The point was driven home constantly when I worked in Seattle, home to a zillion millionaires, some of whom desperately needed haircuts and sweaters without holes in them. (I'm thinking Bill Gates. Great mind. Lots of money. But he needed to be reminded to get his hair cut by his staff.)
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Michael Bauer/Tom comment: No question this time, but I wanted to sing Bauer's praises. His blog is very entertaining and even includes a pizza pick of the week and fun items about the service industry.
Besides Tom, he is the only critic I regularly read (and please note: I don't live in D.C. or S.F.) and I had NO idea of Tom's background in S.F. or with Bauer.
It was a fun day when I read Tom's sound story and discovered the connection!
You're gonna love SF. Just dive in and enjoy. How could a food lover not?
Tom Sietsema: Just fyi: I'll be writing about three restaurants in San Francisco for my next Postcard column in Travel (July 13).
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Washington, D.C.: Tom,
What are your thoughts on the Little Fountain Cafe?
Tom Sietsema: I want to like it more than I do.
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Anonymous: Tom,
Do you watch any of the cooking contest shows like "Top Chef" or "Hell's Kitchen"?
Tom Sietsema: No, but I LOVE "The Biggest Loser."
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Washington, D.C.: Tom, we missed you! For real, I felt a loss these past couple Wednesdays, and my lunches definitely didn't taste as good.
I do have a question. I've asked it before, and I'm trying again. Any details on the opening of the new Matchbox on Barracks Row?
Tom Sietsema: Why, thank you, Washington! It definitely feels good to be back in the saddle and in an East Coast time zone.
Co-owner Ty Neal informs me that the future Matchbox (521 8th St. SE) is currently "a beehive of activity with the trades." Construction and other setbacks have his team joking about a launch "sometime in 2008," although "the end of summer" -- September, maybe? -- is their actual target.
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Alexandria, Va.: You must be tired from your travels...you are typing slowly today!
Tom Sietsema: I'm under-caffeinated. Sorry!
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Dupont, Washington, D.C.: It appears that Nathan Beauchamp has left 1789...any news on his future plans?
Tom Sietsema: All I know is that he headed west, to Seattle.
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Alexandria, Va.: Robert Plant ate last week at 208 Talbot in St. Michaels. Any plans on visiting some restaurants in St. Michaels soon? Oh yeah -- thanks for letting everyone know about Hill's Drug Store in Easton. When I've been in town I've always stopped by there -- now it's damn well near impossible!
Tom Sietsema: Bob Plante. Now there's a man who enjoys a good meal.
I haven't focused on St. Michael's much. Who out there might have some suggestions for Alexandria?
Hill's Drug Store is a hoot, isn't it? Unfortunately, reviewers are paid to spill the beans, not withhold 'em.
washingtonpost.com: The Soda Fountain at Hills
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Dupont Circle: Ate at Brasserie Beck three weeks ago. The food was fine -- JUST fine -- but the service was ABYSMAL. Completely absentminded and forgetful. We ended up with three different waiters throughout the course of our meal -- which took three hours for two courses -- and I couldn't tell you which one was the worst. Should have heeded a friend's suggestion and had my mussels and fries at the bar.
Tom Sietsema: I think people are much more forgiving of mediocre food (when the service is great) than they are of mediocre service (even when the food is good). Would you return?
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RE: Angry at Colorado: Why do people take things so personally? It's unfortunate the writer puts his own ego ahead of what the chef's vision or even persona reflect. Perhaps (without knowing her) she's just not a people person. I for one would be happy that SHE is an actual body in the kitchen and not just a name on an awning. Aaaannnddd, how did Source get best new restaurant? Honestly, aside from the cellophane noodles and (overpriced/mini) pizza nothing impressed our group of seven. Including the service.
Tom Sietsema: You are not the only person to raise that question about The Source, particularly in light of Central's big win (for best new restaurant -- in the country) at the recent James Beard Foundation Awards in New York.
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Bethesda: Based on your recommendations, we've tried Raku, Daniel Craig and Jaleo in Bethesda. Liked them all but were wondering if you had any other restaurant suggestions in this area for this weekend. We like all kinds of cuisine.
Tom Sietsema: What about the new Assiagi?
washingtonpost.com: 2008 First Bite: Assaggi
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Baltimore, Md.: I need a quick answer! My son's flight is landing in San Francisco right now, and he has a six-hour layover. Where should he go for lunch in San Francisco?
Tom Sietsema: Hog Island Oysters at the Ferry Farm Market Building for the obvious -- and great wine and a great view to boot.
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German Food: Tom, made the long trek from NoVa to Edgewater, Md., to check out the Old Stein last Sunday. Fabulous food, great beer garden. Slightly odd "spicy" gravy on the jaegerschnitzel, which must have been a regional touch. Have you been and if so, what did you think?
Tom Sietsema: I went last year, and was a bit disappointed. I much prefer Schmankerl Stube in Hagerstown.
washingtonpost.com: 2008 Review: Schmankerl Stube
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Fairfax, Va.: How does Capital Q rank in terms of the area's best ribs?
Tom Sietsema: I'm not a big fan, but the place always looks really busy. (Location, location, location might help.)
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Burke, Va.: Caught 2 of your recent writeups in NWA mag and loved them even more than your usual Wednesday and Sunday writeups in The Post. Do you write for any other publications on a regular basis?
Tom Sietsema: Thanks (I think). I occasionally freelance for other publications, but I've got a two-year contract with Northwest Airlines for its in-flight magazine.
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Falls Church, Va.: The couple at Jaleo felt ignored, so they left a tip of "only" 18%? I suspect that the server did not perceive 18% as punishment.
Tom Sietsema: I suspect not, too!
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Wedding Gift: Please don't give someone a GC to Rasika unless you know they like Indian food. Certainly not a gift that large. Go with something that can appeal to a wider taste range and that does vegetarian food well.
Tom Sietsema: My point is, the food at Rasika is incredibly varied -- and I've taken more than a few guests there who swear they "don't like Indian" only to have them change their minds afterwards.
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Vienna, Va.: Hi Tom -- did you try Kerry Simon's new place at the Palms when you were out in Vegas? Great spot, beautiful view of the pool at night. Only problem we had was the air conditioning units in the ceiling in the side room (evidently we looked loud -- that was a good guess). Anyhow the units made the food cold pretty fast. The manager was very accommodating. Oh and the food was wonderful, the sushi especially got good reviews. The floor show involved a spectacular fight and broken (thrown?) drink at the next table, and George Malouf in the main dining room. I do love Vegas.
Tom Sietsema: I love Vegas, too, even though the most memorable meal I had there was of-limits to the general public. (Details to follow, I hope.)
This was a quickie trip, specifically to eat Chinese in the sky, but I squeezed in a couple of other meals around that mission. Rosemary's, on the city's west side, was a bust. So was Burger Bar, chef Hubert Keller's ode to America's favorite sandwich; the burgers were fine, but why is one of America's top chef's serving packaged fries? I had a splendid dinner at Bartolotta's in the Wynn -- flappin' fresh fish from the Mediterranean -- but also paid dearly for the pleasure.
From all the crowded restaurants, you'd never think there's a recession. I got the impression a lot of Americans who were considering going to Europe for vacation went to Sin City instead.
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Penn Quarter: Hey Tom,
Welcome back!
I have a yen for guacamole. Got a recommendation?
Tom Sietsema: You're in luck. Cafe Atlantico is in your neighborhood. The restaurant serves one of the best avocado dips around.
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
I was disquieted to hear the news about Barton Seaver. I have a reservation tomorrow night at Hook -- should I keep it?
Tom Sietsema: Absolutely. Restaurants are teams, remember, and Hook's team includes the very capable Joshua Whigham, who worked under Seaver at the restaurant and was recently promoted to the No. 1 kitchen position.
washingtonpost.com: Seaver Steps Down at Hook
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So do tell, inquiring minds want to know: Was your two week hiatus a regular vacation...or...gasp...a honeymoon?!?!?!
Tom Sietsema: I'd call it a work trip, actually -- an amazing, delicious, sometimes frustrating, eye-opening, occasionally lip-smacking and arduous assignment! (But the company, all along the way, was terrific.)
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Washington, D.C.: Will be in Chicago in October with a group of friends who all love good food, great restaurants and good wine. What restaurants would you recommend in downtown Chicago right now? The postcard you have is from 2005; is it still valid?
Tom Sietsema: By happy coincidence, I was emailing my buddy, Steve Dolinsky, a food reporter for ABC News in Chicago, when your request came in. Here's what he recommends right now:
Mercat a la Planxa (in Blackstone Hotel)
Jose Garces' take on Spanish tapas
Sixteen (in Trump Hotel)
$$$$ but drop-dead gorgeous view of Tribune Tower and Wrigley Bldg. and city (French-inflected American)
graham elliot
(Former Avenues chef, now doing playful three-star, whimsical American, servers in tennis shoes, etc.)
L.20
In former Ambria space in Lincoln Park, Laurent Gras reaching for Le Bernardin-level seafood experience
"I know it's been around awhile, but I always recommend Topolobampo, too."
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20002: Re: Colorado Kitchen -- I, too, am disappointed with the way that Chef Gillian has chosen to close her restaurant.
My wife and I (and our 6-month-old son) had dinner there on June 25 (a special, fried-chicken-only fund-raiser), the very night that the news that she was closing apparently broke. I found out the next day, much to my surprise. I was an early adopter of Colorado Kitchen and tried to go as often as possible, but not nearly enough to call myself a regular.
Never once did I witness any of the "dressing downs" or tirades that were supposedly so ubiquitous at CK with Ms. Clark. Certainly, I had to endure the notorious poor service on more than one occasion, but the food was NEVER subpar. Did she do the things she was accused of by her many detractors? Probably, but I never saw it. I just got consistently good food in a charming atmosphere.
I never understood all the people who complained. Who cares if she didn't like to visit the dining room to chat up the customers? Would she have been better served had she done so? Probably, but why was she pilloried so?
Just let me say that I appreciated Colorado Kitchen and Gillian Clark and Ii hope I get the opportunity to taste more of her food in the future.
Tom Sietsema: Stay tuned. She has two projects in the works.
Thanks, everyone, for such a warm welcome today. I'm lucky to have this forum and lucky to have such passionate chatters.
I'm off to get some java -- and start on my columns for next week. Ciao for now.
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