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Wednesday, July 23, 2008; 11:00 AM
In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?
Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.
For more restaurant chatter, join Sietsema's Table, Tom's new discussion group about dining experiences.
The transcript follows.
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Tom Sietsema: WASTE NOT, WANT NOT: The CEO of DC Central Kitchen is not thrilled about the fact the non-profit spent $900,000 on purchases from large national food suppliers last year, or that its cooking facilities are typically idle after 4 p.m. Given the trail-blazing organization's mission statement, Mike Curtin says he finds buying outside the community and not making the most of the organization's resources "wildly hypocritical."
That's changing. As reported in the Post Food section earlier this summer, Curtin says DC Central Kitchen, which serves 4,500 meals a day to the needy, has begun reaching out to area farmers in Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania to acquire produce that is blemished or unsaleable but perfectly edible.
The latest news: The organization recently tapped the former chef at Hook in Georgetown, Barton Seaver, to create retail products that use those and other local foodstuffs. Beginning next month, Seaver will serve as DC Central's development chef; as early as fall, Curtin hopes to see some of his consultant's pastas, sauces and soups available in farm markets, grocery chains and even on the menus of large restaurant groups.
"I hope to make a small but significant change," says the socially-minded Seaver, who plans to start his part-time gig after trips to Ireland, Boston and New Orleans, where he'll be competing in a national seafood cook-off.
His friend at DC Central is thinking otherwise. "I hope to put Paul Newman out of business," jokes Curtin. "You gotta think big, right?"
Happy Wednesday, everyone. We have lots of questions and comments today. Let's roll!
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Great Falls, Va.: We had a nice dinner at Hook last week, but I was surprised to see an 18 percent service charge on the check and asked. The waiter informed me that even for parties of four, they add a service charge because, "We are a small restaurant." The credit card chit had a place to add a tip. I've not see this for a small group before. Is this a common practice? Is this a ploy to build the tip at the expense of those who don't look at the check?
Tom Sietsema: Manager Christian (I'd-love-to-know-who-the-server-was) Pendleton informs me that the policy of the restaurant is to add 20 percent gratuity (not 18 percent) onto bills for parties of six or more -- standard industry practice, by the way.
According to Pendleton, such a bill comes with a line that indicates a tip has been added but also a separate line for any additional money a party might want to leave. "Guests sometimes like to add more."
Pendleton says he's like to hear from whoever this happened to -- in part because additional gratuities have to be authorized by managers.
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Washington, D.C.: Tom, my mother and I will be dining at Central next week for my birthday. Which dishes should we absolutely not miss -- the menu looks so amazing, I know it will be hard to choose! Thanks so much!
Tom Sietsema: The kitchen is known for its haute burgers -- made with beef but also lobster, tuna and shrimp -- and its glamorous take on a Kit Kat bar. But you should really head in the direction of whatever you're craving. (I'm a huge fan of the thick-cut liver and onions myself. ) It's hard to go wrong on Cedric Maupillier's bistro menu.
washingtonpost.com: 2007 Dining Guide: Central
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Washington: Tom, what is the protocol for pouring your own wine? We had a great meal at Citronelle recently, with a fantastic bottle of wine. The bottle was opened and first glass poured obviously by the restaraunt staff, but nobody really attended to re-filling our glasses. It wasn't a big deal -- I didn't mind and I didn't spill -- but I just wasn't sure if we were "supposed" to do it ourselves. Thoughts?
Tom Sietsema: A good waiter "reads" guests and their preferences -- how much interaction they want with the servers, etc. Did you end up refilling your glasses yourselves throughout the night?
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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Tom,
I wanted to thank you for your postcard from Seattle. I just returned from a trip to Seattle and had an amazing lunch at Matt's in the Market. That day, they had a special for a catfish po boy which tasted so fresh, you would have though that someone brought it over from the bay. Since I was counter bound seeing that I was eating by myself and just taking in Pike's Place Market, I got a chance to watch the action and talk to the cooks behind the counter, which was such a treat. In addition to the food being fresh, I thought the atmosphere was so clean that it inspired me to go down to the market and pick up dinner to cook for my hosts that evening. If you get a chance to return to Seattle, might I suggest Canlis? I know it's a staple in Seattle, but I found the service and food to be an example of what fine dining should be. Thank you again for your suggestions in Seattle. We are very lucky to have someone like you giving us amazing food experiences not only in our backyards but across the world.
Tom Sietsema: I had my meal at the bar at Matt's, too! I loved watching the cooks up close, and if I turned to my left, I caught a view of the water. Neat.
I dined at Canlis a few years ago. Loved the room and the service, but nothing on the menu thrilled me, nor my three tablemates, I'm sorry to report.
washingtonpost.com: Postcard From Tom: Seattle
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
My friend wants to go to a churrascaria in D.C. My only experience with one was up in Boston at a small, family owned place. I read your review of Fogo de Chao, but is there anything else comparable in the area? While we're looking forward to the food, I'm a little concerned that the atmosphere might be too formal for us as female college students. Any thoughts?
Tom Sietsema: Fogo de Chao is the only Brazilian steak house in the District; its competitors in the burbs aren't nearly as good. Don't worry about not fitting in, by the way. I've seen all ages and all manner of dress in the diing room there.
washingtonpost.com: Review: Fogo de Chao
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom -
I just booked a table for three for my birthday at Restaurant Nora. I've never been, but figured it would be ideal because it's in my neighborhood (no need to drive or find parking!) and offers options for both vegetarians (me) and omnivores (my husband and sister). Still, I'm wondering if some place else would be better for that price -- would you recommend any other restaurants that fit the bill for what I need (vegetarian friendly and within walking distance from Dupont)? FYI, my birthday is in a week and a half (and on a Friday!), so not a lot of time to get reservations at more sought after venues. Thanks for any advice!
Tom Sietsema: I'm not a fan of Restaurant Nora. My last meal there was slapdash, and expensive to boot.
You might try the handsome, Italian-themed Etrusco, which has a new chef in place, or the Tabard Inn, where you might inquire about a table on the patio.
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Falls Church, Va.: Tom,
Do you have any suggestions for good Web sites for places to find restaurant recommendations when your traveling. Your postcards are great and we use them when we can but even you would admit that you don't cover much of the country. I'm at a loss for what to do when I go to a smaller city like Asheville, N.C., or a small town like Christianburg, Va. -- to pick to totally random places (well, maybe not completely random). What do you think of chowhound.com? Any other sites you would recommend to visit or avoid.
Thanks for your help.
washingtonpost.com: Sietsema's Table: Finding Food on the Road
Tom Sietsema: Here's a start, tips from fellow food enthusiasts.
P.S. I don't recall ever writing that I don't cover much of the country. As much as possible in a dozen columns a year (in the Travel section), I endeavor to write about a variety of US and foreign markets.
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indebleu: Good Morning Tom,
This is Arjun Rishi from indebleu restaurant in Penn Quarter. A poster in last week's chat expressed dissatisfaction with service at indebleu. I was hoping that you could please ask "Alexandria, Va." if they would be willing to give additional details regarding their experience so that we may see where we fell short, as well as invite them back to indebleu. We would absolutely love a second opportunity to win them back.
Warmest regards, Arjun Rishi
Tom Sietsema: Is our Indebleu diner out there today?
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Washington, D.C.: Saints Paradise Cafe follow-up: Dinner yesterday with significant other; large portions, each enough for two meals. She had pork chops, they gave two large chops (expecting only one); I had plenty of whiting, and while seated, a wonderful worker came over with four more large pieces, noting they were hot and asked if I wanted them. At no charge. Great and friendly service, excellent value for price, good selection to choose from. The downside? Cafeteria style seating, you share the space with everyone from church members, to those off the street, local workers, and some down on their luck, and the several television sets that were showing CNN. But you know what . . . that's not such a bad thing. They treated us first-timers as old friends (seriously) rather than new customers; we're going back. Thanks for the suggestion.
washingtonpost.com: Tom's Review of Saints Paradise Cafeteria
Tom Sietsema: I think the mix of customers is part of Saints' charm, but I could do without CNN. Enough restaurants give us that, whether we want it or not.
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Lex Park: The main suspect in the recent salmonella outbreak is cilantro. Eating tofu puts you at great risk for developing Alzheimer's Disease. If you are choking on peanut butter, the Heimlich procedure cannot help you. I must say I am happy to see these disgusting substances have been confirmed as mortally dangerous. I would like to know why they haven't been banned in Montgomery County, or, at least in Takoma Park?
Tom Sietsema: Why do I get the feeling one of Gene Weingarten's fans is trying to stir the pot here in Food Land?
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Chevy Chase, Md.: This may seem trivial, but it's really been annoying me and I need some help with it. How much should one tip for brunch if it's buffet? I have a hard time thinking that 18% or more is appropriate when they are really just refreshing beverages and smiling politely. Be mindful that I'm talking about a "nice" buffet brunch.
Tom Sietsema: I'd be inclined to leave at least 10 percent. As many buffet servers have told me, there's a lot they do, sometimes behind the scenes, to make everything work.
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Arlington, Va.: I need help with my challenge for the week. I need to find:
A wine bar (thinking about Cork) where there is a nice variety of wines but not too busy.
Second a restaurant for dinner. American, Italian, Steak or Mexican. No Chinese, Thai or Indian. Perfer a place for it's good food and service rather then being the trendy place to be.
Third: A place for dessert and after dinner drinks.
D.C. or Va. perferred. Any suggestions?
Tom Sietsema: 1) Forget Cork if you don't want "busy." The place is JAMMED as early as 6 p.m. most nights. I'd be inclined to try Proof instead. But then, that place gets crowded, too. Can anyone think of a good wine bar that no one knows about yet?
2) Good food and service but not TOO trendy? Vermilion in Old Town gets my vote.
3) Co Co Sala downtown D.C. But bring your ear plugs! And you better like chocolate!
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Dupont Circle: Hi Tom -- do you know what has happened to Montsouris? When I called to make a reservation, the line says the phone is "temporarily disconnected." And walking by, it looks like the restaurant has gone dark. Please, please, tell me that our favorite neighborhood bistro has not succumbed to the P Street construction project -- it was always busy when we were there. And those frites!
washingtonpost.com: 2006 Review: Montsouris
Tom Sietsema: According to co-owner Stephane Lezla, the chef-owner at Montmartre on the Hill, "partner problems" forced the closing of Montsouris in late June. He declined to comment any further.
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I prefer to refill my own wine: Otherwise, don't you know the waiter fills my glass after I've already decided to stop for the night. Then I have to either drink more than I'd planned, or give up wine I paid for that I could have corked and taken home.
Tom Sietsema: You must live in Maryland or Virginia. The District doesn't allow diners to remove unconsumed alcohol from its restaurants.
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Washington, D.C.: Tom - give me your top three seafood choices for restaurant week. Thanks!
Tom Sietsema: Scanning the list of participants, I'd say Kinkead's, Oceanaire Seafood Room and Pesce would be high on any such list.
washingtonpost.com: Restaurant Week participants
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Boston, Mass.: Tom -- I am amused by the stories of restaurant patrons who think they were treated poorly by servers because they were presumed to be bad tippers (often because they were young or because of what they were wearing). It's funny because it is a self-fulfilling prophecy -- the server provides poor service anticipating a poor tip and gets a poor tip. I, too, have had occasions where I think the server "pre-identified" me as a poor tipper (though more commonly I think I receive the same level of service as others). When this has happened, I have thought that the reason is either because I am dining alone or because I do not drink wine (and rarely drink at all) and apparently servers make a lot on wine sales. Of course, I tip poorly in response to the poor service.
Tom Sietsema: Regardless of the faces in front of them, waiters need to pretend they're waiting on Warren Buffett or rock stars.
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Washington, D.C.: For the chatter asking about a wine bar -- I've had great success sitting upstairs at Sonoma. Good selection by the glass and tasty snacks. I'm not a huge fan of the restaurant, but the upstairs space is a great, and still relatively quiet, place to grab a drink and catch up with a few friends.
Tom Sietsema: Good idea! Thanks for weighing in.
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Metro Center: "The policy of the restaurant is to add 20 percent gratuity (not 18 percent) onto bills for parties of six or more -- standard industry practice, by the way."
Standard practice, sure. But also, insulting practice. I tip well - I was a bartender for a long time. But if you add a service charge onto my bill, especially if you do so without pointing it out very clearly, you will not get a penny more than that service charge.
As long as U.S. social practice remains voluntary tips vs. included service charges, I will feel this way. It's infuriating to see a restaurant go for deceptive policies like this, and to charge policies at the drop of a hat. Customers value consistency.
Tom Sietsema: Let me clear something up: The 20 percent tip (add-on) at Hook is clearly stated on the check, according to the restaurant manager. The other line is highlighted as ADDL or some such. But I agree: After a night of revelry, groups need to be reminded if any tip has been added.
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Saints Paradise?: Tom,
Your review assigns no stars to Saints Paradise... an oversight?
Tom Sietsema: No. I mentioned in the intro to my piece (on food in unusual places) that because of their unique make-up, and because I didn't visit each place my usual three or more times, I wasn't assigning stars.
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Washington, D.C.: Last year, I was looking for a unique and romantic dining experience for my wife's birthday. Your recommendation -- the bird cage at Mie N Yu in Georgetown -- was spot-on. She still talks about it. Do you have anything to match that for this year's special day?
Tom Sietsema: Did I suggest that? (I'm not a big fan of the restaurant.)
A bird cage would be a tough act to follow. Does the Old-world Taberna del Alabardero still feature flamenco dancers? That could fun. I'd also be inclined to suggest drinks at the civilized speakeasy, PX, in Old Town as part of the evening's activities.
I'll throw your question out to the chattership and see what comes back.
washingtonpost.com: 2007 Dining Guide: Taberna del Alabardero or Review: PX
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Does anyone really want the waiter to keep pouring their wine?: To me, that's as intrusive as the (short-lived) fad for waiters to put the napkins on diners' laps as soon as they sit down.
Tom Sietsema: To each his own. Some people like to have their wine poured for them throughout a meal, others don't. If people feel strongly about the subject, they should let their server know at the start.
BTW: I've had my napkin placed on my lap twice this week. And it's only Wednesday! In other words, the "trend" is hardly "short-lived."
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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I have a friend who says one should not tip on alcohol (his tip is 15-20% on food only). Can you help me convince him that this is wrong? Thanks!
Tom Sietsema: Well, this is a question I've asked of six or so sommeliers and even THEY can't give me a good answer.
I tend to tip 20 percent on the sub-total for both food and wine, and $40-$60 is my typical, personal comfort zone for bottles of wine. But what happens if a diner orders say, Screaming Eagle? Or multiple bottles of a dear wine? Are they expected to tip 20 percent on such? Some would argue that the costly wines entail careful storage, handling, decanting and pouring, and that 20 percent or so is proper.
Any thoughts from the wine mavensd out there would be most welcome.
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What we loved at Central: The faux gras, mushroom pearl pasta risotto, and the 72-hour short ribs... Delicious!
Tom Sietsema: Mmmmmm. Is it noon yet?
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Hands off the wine bottle: A op-ed in Slate back in May by the great Christopher Hitchens reminded me that I too prefer to control the pouring of the wine. Wait staff in most restaurants pour too much, too frequently, and too often interrupt conversation in doing so. This goes also for clearing (or attempting to clear) empty plates while some are still eating and conversing. They don't intend to be rude, but I imaging it drives many experienced diners up the wall.
Tom Sietsema: I hate it when servers empty the contents of a bottle of wine for a table in a single encounter. A good wine server can pour for six and still leave a bit in the flask. (Right, Mark?) Classy, I say.
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Downtown D.C.: Is Ray's Butcher burger open for lunch as well as dinner? I looked for info online to no avail.
washingtonpost.com: First Bite: Butcher Burgers
Tom Sietsema: Hell-Burger (that's what Michael Landrum calls it) is open for lunch on Saturday and Sunday.
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McLean, Va.: Why are restaurant restrooms so poorly maintained? We were in the middle of an otherwise pleasant meal at Georgia Brown's recently, when both my husband and I found the restrooms "less than well maintained." Shouldn't someone make a routine point of checking in every hour our so to make sure things are clean and tidy? Certainly puts a damper on a pleasant night out....
Tom Sietsema: I agree! An untidy restroom always makes me think, "If this is the condition they maintain a space I can see, I wonder what the KITCHEN looks like."
Your idea would be my solution as well. A manager or other staffer should monitor restrooms on a periodic basis throughout a shift.
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Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom,
I'm not sure if this is the correct venue to pass this along, but I thought I'd give it a try. It concerns my first experience attempting to dine at Corduroy restaurant on 9th St.
My two best friends had recommended going there on the special occasion that my mom was visiting from the Pacific Northwest. As I began to give my name and check in with the hosts to confirm our 8:15 p.m. OpenTable reservation, one of the hosts interrupted and looking at my mom said, "No shorts allowed in the dining room!" He added that the dress code required women to wear clothes that covered their ankles and it was listed on their Web site as well as on the confirmation e-mail I should have received from the reservation Web site.
My mom was dressed in cropped linen pants (a style I came to learn) that fell below the knee and a dress top, and I in a custom summer suit and tie.
We were both taken aback and my mom stepped outside. At the time I wasn't even thinking about the 89 degree temperature and how ridiculous it seemed for a restaurant to have such a policy this time of year. Now I realize that I didn't carefully read the e-mail confirmation, and I cannot argue with the policy of a restaurant. However, the brash manner in which the host spoke seemed inconsistent with a restaurant with that kind of strict dress code.
After texting my friends to explain the situation and to quickly decide on another option, I said that I wanted to say something to the manager. My mom said, "Oh don't." But, I persisted as I felt it was important to convey that a softer approach would have been welcomed. The manager apologized.
While I believe D.C.'s restaurant scene has improved immeasurably over my 14 years here, I see this as an example of how that doesn't mean that customer service has gone along with that evolution.
The story does have a happy ending. We ended up going to Nage off of 16th and Rhode Island, and I was blown away. My Prix-fixed meal that included an incredibly spiced frog legs appetizer and Hawaiian prawn entree were exquisite. That was topped off with a rhubarb tart desert that my mom and friends couldn't resist sharing.
My faith in Washington restaurants was restored with great service, memorable food, and a restaurant where one can be dressed well and not be turned away.
Tom Sietsema: Sure enough, Corduroy has a dress code of "no shorts or hats" on Open Table.
Dress codes are a restaurant's perogative, but I think, just to be clear, the message should be written on the door (a la the Prime Rib, which maintains a jacket-and-tie policy for men) and/or reiterated in any telephone exchange with diners.
The manager in question sounds like he needs a charm course.
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That's as intrusive as the (short-lived) fad for waiters to put the napkins on diners' laps as soon as they sit down: I always hated at my boss' club how they refold my napkin while I return to the buffet! Don't touch something I put on my lips!
Tom Sietsema: I've researched this. Unless a napkin or waiter's hands are wet, there's tiny chance of contracting anything. I think bunched up napkin balls look a little unslightly, too. But I hear you!
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Washington, D.C.: I don't understand why anyone would want a server to pour their wine. Do they want their food cut up, too? When my husband and I go to dinner, he'll have 2/3 of the bottle, where I will have 1/3. Unless the waiter pours so quickly. Then I pour wine from my glass to my husband's, risking spilling wine on me, him and the table cloth. And too often the wine is poured and the waiter is gone before I've had time to blink!
Grrr.
Tom Sietsema: We're here for you. Vent, baby, vent.
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Monterey Fish Company in Tysons: Tom -- I really look forward to your chats -- when you're not flitting about on travel. Have you been to this restaurant? I was there last Friday and experienced and observed amazing service. They are REALLY trying hard to keep their customers satisfied. I had a seared tuna salad and it was REALLY good. I hope they do well, they certainly putting forth a much appreciated effort!
Tom Sietsema: I've not been there (yet). So many restaurants! So little time! (So much traffic en route to Tysons!)
"Flitting on about travel." If readers want to know where I've been, or what's good outside our market, I see no reason not to address their requests.
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re: Corduroy: Cropped linen below the knee pants are NOT shorts. It sounds like she was appropriately dressed and the host should at least be taken to task. And given a lesson in what the definition of shorts is.
Tom Sietsema: I can see the sign at the podium now, something similar to those posts on the platforms of amusement park rides:
"Your pants have to be THIS HIGH in order to dine with us."
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Argh!: OK, then, can you maybe write a column on how intrusive it is to have waiters put your napkin on your lap?
Tom Sietsema: I'm not sure I could write 34 inches on the topic -- and I can only imagine the backlash if I wasted a column on napkin etiquette.
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Corduroy dress code: Requires women to cover their ankles???
Tom Sietsema: That sounds more like the protocol in a certain Zip Code in Texas to me!
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Hell-burger: Please, please, please consider opening for Friday lunch as well! So many of us federal workers are off due to flexible work schedules. Thank you!
Tom Sietsema: Michael? Do you and your staff have it in you?
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Currently? Austin, Tex. Soon? Back to D.C.: Hi Tom,
The July administration of the bar exam is next week, and I (along with many D.C. area attorneys-to-be) will be taking the New York exam in Albany. Any restaurants good restaurants in Albany? Peanut gallery? Price is only a concern if it's indicative of a formal dress requirement (I'm not bringing anything formal). Type of cuisine is not a factor at all, I'll eat anything. Thanks!
Tom Sietsema: Albany, anyone?
Good luck on the exam, CATSBTDC.
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More on wine: Well, most wine magazines and sources say a typical bottle of wine should have 5.5 servings, so six servings and some left over seems like they are shorting the servings. Five with leftover is considered a standard. The ones that empty a bottle for 4 people are the ones that really irk me. And when I don't want to be interrupted, the first time the waiter comes back to pour, I'll usually put my hand out and say "I'll take care of that tonight, thanks." They usually smile and leave it to me. How hard is that? Since all patrons like something different, how is the poor wait staff supposed to know unless you politely mention it?
Tom Sietsema: Good advice. Waiters aren't mind readers, after all.
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Dress code: Cropped linen pants are NOT shorts. What is this - the Middle East?
Tom Sietsema: Oh dear. The comments I'm getting on this could fill a chat forum . . . .
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Napkins in lap: This topic has "Ask Tom" written all over it.
Tom Sietsema: Yes it does.
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Bathrooms: When I find a bathroom in a distasteful manner, I report it to the host station or the manager that they need to attend to it. Yes, they should check regularly, but sometimes a restaurant is short-staffed or someone didn't show up for work, etc. It's hard to know, so give them the benefit of the doubt and tell them. Several times my wife or I have had to do this, I have seen someone immediately go to the bathroom to attend to it. We also let them know if any supplies have run out.
Tom Sietsema: I agree. If the problem is pointed out and attended to by staff, everyone's happy. (Well, maybe not the person who has to soak up a mess in the restroom ...)
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Southwest, DC: RE: Corduroy. During my first experience at the new location a diner was admitted wearing a ball cap. Clearly, Corduroy's dress code, which was FULLY explained when we made our reservation, is unevenly enforced.
Tom Sietsema: Oh yeah?
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Albany restaurant: Had a good middle eastern meal there a year ago at a place called Mahmoun's. Not fancy, but excellent.
Tom Sietsema: There you go, Future Lawyer. Just in time for me to sign off until next week. Ciao for now.
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