Wednesday, August 6, 2008; 1:00 PM
A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.
Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.
A transcript follows.
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Joe: Greetings and welcome to today's chat... It should be an interesting one thanks to my one-handed typing today. More on that in a sec.
What's on your mind? We have two guests today: Sally Fallon of the Weston A. Price Foundation and Jason Wilson of the Post Spirits Foundation (aka our spirits column).
I'm one-handed today because of surgery to fix a damaged nerve yesterday. And I'm ready to make a game of it. Our giveaway books -- "Nourishing Traditions" by Sally herself and "Goat Cheese" by Maggie Foard -- will go to the two chatters with the best suggestions for comic food-related answers I can give to people who ask me how I hurt myself. The shorter, the better, with extra points for mystery. Examples: "I should've known better than to try a recipe from that Thomas Keller cookbook"; "Damn those cling peaches"; and "Now I know what 'muddle' really means."
At chat's end I'll reveal the true story about the injury.
Fire away!
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Dupont Circle, D.C.: I'm absolutely thrilled to see your piece on Weston Price in today's Food Section! I'm sure most of the compliments will be from those who prescribe to his ideas but as someone who used to struggle with weight, general blah feeling, intestinal issues and constant head colds that have slowly dissipated as I decrease my intake of processed foods and foods that are predominantly sugars, carbs, or starches, I'd just like to say: it works!! It's the non-diet - eat what comes natural and healthy to humans: food that has not been tampered or altered, food that will make you feel good (assuming you don't eat too much of it) and eating varieties instead of running scared from "bad nutrients". It takes the pressure off the eater by thinking of food as food instead of vehicles for nutrients.
Jane Black: Interesting. How long have you been following this diet? Do you follow it to a T? Do you make your own decisions? Love to hear more about your experience.
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impossible quiche: I made an impossible quiche over the weekend and I have to admit it was just so bland, my husband couldn't eat it even after we smothered it with ketchup. The idea was to throw cheese, broccoli, mushrooms, milk and eggs together, over the dough batter. How can I make this an enticing and flavorful dish?
Bonnie: Oh dear. I'm not sure ketchup's your go-to condiment, in this case. Maybe a fresh salsa.
Is the impossible quiche the one made with a Bisquick base? Herbs and spices would certainly help. Roasting or sauteing the vegetables would help. Salt and pepper in the eggs would help.
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Washington, D.C. re animal fats and raw milk: I used to eat liver but stopped except for maybe once a year after I was told the liver stores high levels of antibiotics, pesticides and other things in animal feed that we humans shouldn't consume in untold quantities. Is this not a concern for Ms. Fallon/Mr. Price or do they advocate consuming only organic meats -- which are so ultra-expensive I still might only eat liver once a year?
Also, isn't there at least one disease associated with consuming raw milk, and isn't that why using pasteurized milk became the norm?
(To answer my own question, I just looked this up and the FDA reports "Raw milk may harbor a host of disease-causing organisms (pathogens), such as the bacteria campylobacter, escherichia, listeria, salmonella, yersinia, and brucella... Most healthy people recover from foodborne illness within a short period of time, but others may have symptoms that are chronic, severe, or life-threatening.")
Lastly, while "isolated" peoples such as the Maori may have fewer diseases and dental decay, don't they also have much, much shorter average life-spans than we do? Is there any evidence that their shorter life-spans are un-related to their diets -- for instance, do they mostly die in hunting accidents rather than from heart attacks?
I would love to eat the way Fallon and Price recommend. But I'm not yet convinced it's good for my health!
Sally Fallon: Hi there,
We are very aware of budget constraints people have--that is why we have set up a system of local chapters that help people purchase directly from farmers doing pasture-based feeding, this is beyond organic. You can find your local chapter by going to westonaprice.org. We have many in the area and a great local food network.
That being said, if your only choice is the supermarket, I would recommend calves liver, not beef liver. The calves liver will be cleaner. I'd only purchase chicken livers at a health food store. And it is important to realize that many of the nutrients in liver help the body deal with toxins. If you will go to our website and look up the article on Dioxins--it will explain how vitamin A helps the body deal with all the dioxins in the environment--and liver is the very best source of vitamin A.
As for raw milk, we have a Response to the FDA posted on the Splash Page of our other website realmilk.com. The studies they cite actually do NOT show that raw milk is a source of all these diseases--there is a tremendous amount of bias and downright fraud on the part of government officials when it comes to raw milk. Also read the Powerpoint presentation on raw milk, also on the realmilk.com splashpage.
OK, the lifespan question. We will never have an answer to that because these people did not keep records. However, Dr. Price noted the presence of many elderly people in these communities. Many Eskimos (diet was 80% animal fat) bragged of being over 100 years old--no way of knowing whether they were telling the truth, of course.
What we can say is that the people living to 80-100 today are those that grew up before the second world war and were eating plenty of butter and eggs and organ meats--much more than we eat today. Even our government admits that the current generation (brought up on processed foods and buying into the lowfat propaganda) will not live as long as our parents.
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Washington, D.C.: Great recipe for Mushroom Noodle Soup. Thanks to a recent Costco run, I have a huge container of dried assorted mushrooms and I'm looking for good recipes. Any suggestions? Any any suggestions on making the mushrooms have a less rubbery texture when they are rehydrated?
Thanks!
Bonnie: It's an easy one, isn't it? (From last week, here.)
Using a combo solution of wine or broth with water and a little soy sauce or sugar might help. Before you rehydrate them all, you might want to borrow Editor Joe's Vita=Mix blender and make yourself some fine mushroom powder. It can be a thickener for soups, or lend flavor to scrambled eggs or souffles. Or sprinkle it on salads, even. Good stuff.
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Ballston Dude:"Natural Food"
There is a small section of meat at BJ's with this sign above.
Shouldn't all other food have a sign above stating "Non Natural Food" instead?
Why highlight what is good without highlighting the bad?
Jane Black: The USDA has a definition of "natural" so that may be what it refers to. I'd have to look it up but I think it means no preservatives or artificial colors. (But, for example, you can pump a chicken breast full of salt water and it's OK.) Still, it's hilarious. Chatters, got any suggestions for signs that should be up in the grocery store? What about "Fake"?
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Arlington, Va. S: Can you please expand on what was meant in "The Great Divide" article with regard to having "science to back it up"? Presumably we're talking about the nutritional aspects, but precious little was said in this regard aside from using the author as proof of the claim. As a counter claim I can offer that my immediate family eats similarly to the diet that she describes, having grown up in northern Italy. Plenty of cheese, organ meats, etc. Everyone in my parents generation has horrible cardiovascular trouble (while looking as thin or thinner than the author in her picture). This is why, while mostly scratch cooking whole foods like the author, I stay away from large quantities of meats and dairy and eat a vegetarian diet. At 40 my cardiovascular health is much better than the average person.
Neither claim proves anything. Large controlled studies are the best way to go. Studies may have been done, but the article didn't indicate this if they were.
Sally Fallon: Please do go to our website westonaprice.org and read the various articles under Modern Disease-Heart Disease. These articles are fully referenced.
There are so many variables in heart disease. After the war in Italy, people were literally starving so children getting their start during this period would be more susceptible to chronic disease. Diets too high in carbohydrates or modern processed oils (liquid and hardened) contribute to heart disease--even if the diet otherwise contains good traditional foods, these processed foods could be a factor.
Then, of course, there is the question of what is "good cardiovascular health." Just having low cholesterol or being very slim does not necessarily indicate you have good cardiovascular health.
By the way, the diet we promote is not necessarily a diet that is high in meat. Actually, lean meat is not good for you, it is very depleting. If you do eat meat, you need to eat it with the fat. Some people can be healthy on a vegetarian diet as long as it contains good quality eggs and whole milk. The key is to get the nutrients you need--and the most nutrient-dense foods are organ meats, eggs, raw cheese from grass-fed cows, etc.
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Falls Church, Va.: No love from Ask Tom this morning - can the Food Section help me out? I'm looking for good food in Montpelier, Vt. - I'm up for just about anything.
Joe: Lessee ... I haven't been to Montpelier in awhile, but it was once a regular lunch stop on my twice-yearly drive from Boston to Montreal. But you should check out one of the NE Culinary restos, such as The Chef's Table. I've also heard good buzz about Restaurant Phoebe.
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Palm Bay, Florida: Treacle fudge. I have another recipe from Smith College in Kentucky. It's in the book, "Kentucky Keepsakes" by Elizabeth Ross.
Smith College Fudge
1 cup sugar 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed 1/4 cup molasses 1/2 cup light cream 2 squares unsweetened chocolate 1/4 cup butter 1 1/2 teas. vanilla
Combine sugars, molasses, cream and coarsely chopped chocolate in saucepan. Stir until sugar and chocolate have melted over moderate heat. Cook until mixture reaches 238 degrees without stirring. Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla. Cool slightly. Beat until candy begins to harden. Pour onto well buttered platter. Cut into squares. Makes 1 1/4 lbs.
Recipe from Phoebe Ann Hammond, Class of 1947.
My husband loves it as it reminds him of the fudge his grandmother used to make.
Jane Black: If our Harry Potter fan is lingering from last week, here's a recipe for treacle fudge.
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Boston, Mass.: Hi folks!
While I love me some ripe tomatoes with salt or some fresh arugula, generally, I'm not a vegetable person. Do you have any tips on good ways to sneak veggies into my (vegetarian) meals?
Bonnie: No sneaking allowed. Boston, meet blender/food processor. Proceed directly to Gazpachoville. Or hitch a ride to RoastedVegetableburg. Slice them so thin you can't tell what's what. Hard to resist those babies, once they are caramelized.
You're not a salad person, either?
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Food section - I have a family member who, due to health concerns, is having to switch from a rich food-loving life to a very low-fat, low-sodium lifestyle. I'd love some cookbook suggestions to ease the transition for him. Any suggestions? (of cookbooks or places to start looking for them?) It's a new area for me and I'm at a bit of a loss...
Sally Fallon: Funny you should ask. See my book Nourishing Traditions which was reviewed in the food section today. You do not need to switch to a lowfat, low sodium lifestyle to be healthy. You just need to be sure you are using the right kind of traditional fats, not the vegetable oils, spreads, shortening and margarines.
Joe: If you want low-fat/sodium, though, you might look at Cooking Light, which is packed with ideas every issue. Then I would try books with a produce emphasis: They're not on a low-fat mission per se but feature lots of recs that would qualify as such. Like Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors" or Jeanne Kelley's "Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes."
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whole milk and real butter: My husband is from India and eats vegetarian, but does drink milk and eat eggs. He refuses to drink anything other than whole milk and real butter, as he doesn't care for the tastes of fake or modified versions. As someone who doesn't eat meat and gets his protein from lentils, this extra fat in his milk and butter doesn't hurt him one bit. As he is always reminding me, it's all about moderation. Personally, I like red meat, skim milk, and my butter only in baked goods.
Jane Black: I'd love to hear what Sally has to say about moderation but I personally agree with you. It is all about moderation in everything, what you eat, and perhaps most important, how much. I know a lot of people who avoid fat and are, as a result, hungry all the time. They probably eat more than if they had a nice balanced meal.
For many years, the French were a good example of how this could work. We thought it was a paradox that they ate foie gras and drank wine and were thinner than we Americans are. But in small portions and moderation, it works. (That said, as fast food and fast paced world change French culture, that might be changing.)
Sally Fallon: Good for your husband! Yes, whole milk is the best, and preferably raw. Butter is a wonderful health food.
The question is, who is defining moderation?
As a recovered hypoglycemic, I need a lot of fat in my diet to function and not get hungry between meals. By eating this way, I never even think of snacking between meals. Isn't' this better than eating "moderately" and then being tempted by the candy bars and chips between meals.
Of course, how much fat we eat is an individual thing--some people do better and some on more. Traditional diets varied between 30-80% fat--so how much you eat is up to you. The key thing is that you get your fat-soluble vitamins in the fats you do eat.
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Madison, Wis.: I was excited to see your article about Sally Fallon today. I first heard about her and the Weston A. Price foundation a few years ago when I took a class on kombucha brewing. While I haven't read her book, I've tried to incorporate some of their ideas - I switched to whole, organic non-homogenized milk (raw is still illegal in Wisconsin), don't worry about butter or meat as long as it's organic and pasture raised, etc. I've flipped through "Nourishing Traditions" a few times at the bookstore, but I always put it down because, frankly, I love to cook and I want my food to taste fantastic first and foremost. Health is certainly a concern and I eat tons of whole grains and vegetables, but I don't like "health food" that tastes like cardboard. So, my question is, have you guys vetted this book - is it worth cooking from, not just from a health perspective, but from a culinary perspective? Or is it worth getting just for the nutritional info and not so much for the recipes? Thanks!
Sally Fallon: Hi there, Jane can tell you how the meal was that she ate when she came to the office. I will not eat dry cardboard food either. The recipes in Nourishing Traditions taste good because they have plenty of butter and other good fats.
BTW, you can get raw milk in Wisconsin, it is widely available through farm-share programs. There is a wonderful farm halfway between Madison and Milwaukee, where you can get all the things we are talking about. Go to realmilk.com for sources or contact your nearest local chapter.
Jane Black: Yes, I can testify to Sally's cooking. We had a delicious soup, a to-die-for pate (see the recipe in today's section)and berries with fresh cream. Nothing cardboard about it.
One other thought: Sally wasn't being self promotional in her answer but when we talked she told me that the difference between Nourishing Traditions and other cookbooks was that this came from a woman who had to get 4 kids to eat every night. If it wasn't good, they wouldn't eat it.
Sally Fallon: Just a clarification--I wasn't eating my children!!
But children are your most difficult audience and I cooked for a large family for 30 years. If my children wouldn't eat it, it didn't go into the book.
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Rickeys: Did you try Rasika? They use gin, lime, cucumber and basil. The basil adds a bit of bite balanced by the cucumber -- very refreshing and tasty.
Jason Wilson: I haven't tried Rasika's cocktails lately, since Gina Chersevani left for EatBar, but I'm sure it's nice.
Gina actually had a nice rickey in the contest, too, with bourbon, brown sugar, lime juice, and curried cherries, topped with soda water.
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Vienna, Va.: Suggestion for answer to, "How'd you hurt your hand?"
"I fought the Kitchenaid, and the Kitchenaid won."
Joe: Nice. And can be set to music, to boot.
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Berry semifreddo: To the extent you are interested in a field report, I made the strawberry semifreddo this weekend. I used 2% Greek yogurt because I couldn't find plain full fat in any variety. The flavor was fab and it was so easy to make. But even with a reasonable thaw, the dessert stayed icy throughout the middle. Could it be because of the lower fat content in the 2% more water that enabled a harder freeze? If not - any other thoughts about why it froze so hard? I'd like to try again. Thanks!
Bonnie: As in, after it'd been out on the table for a while it remained frozen? Did you make it in a mold or in individual cups? And if you did use a mold, did you portion it in slices and it remained frozen? If so, that would be unusual. I believe our tester made it with 2 percent...we'll check.
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Vinegar: Does the type of vinegar in a vegetable salad matter? Are they interchangeable?
I'm making a green bean and zucchini salad for a potluck lunch at work tomorrow, and the recipe calls for white vinegar, but I have red wine vinegar on hand.
Bonnie: Unless the recipe calls for a lot of it, probably the only difference will be a slight purplish tinge to the vegetables...
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Washington, D.C.: Submitting early because of a conflict, hope you can take this! I'm planning a casual dinner for 8 to celebrate a friend's wedding. I want to do a white theme. I'm thinking white gazpacho (ajo blanco), endives with goat cheese and mandarin orange slices, cheese fondue (out of season but so good) and a white cake. But I need something else before the fondue -- something light. I was thinking perhaps a salad (fennel? cukes?) or stuffed mushrooms. Any other ideas? Thanks!
Jane Black: What a fun idea! One question: Is it vegetarian? If not an elegant seared scallop with lemon zest and butter would be light and white.
Two other suggestions: It sounds a bit heavy on the cheese. Endives with goat cheese and then cheese fondue? And do you have colored plates? It will show off the color well.
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how about...: I took the recipe ingredient "hearts of palm" a bit too seriously.
I think, however, that the benchmark of all culinary injury visions is the "falling baker" gag from Sesame Street.
washingtonpost.com: Two! Chocolate cream! Pies! (via YouTube.com)
Joe: I like it!
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Washington, D.C.: So, I have noticed that Two Amy's has its fava bean crostinis on the menu again. I don't know if you've tried them, but they are fabulous! I'm assuming that means fava beans are in season now. Has anyone seen them at the farmers market? I was going to go to the Dupont market on Sunday, but didn't make it there. I'd love to try to replicate this dish - I'm thinking quick cook of the beans, peel them, put in food processor with olive oil, garlic, parsley, salt? Even if it isn't just like what I got at the restaurant, with those ingredients, how bad could it be.
And Joe, my first thought about the wrist is "sometimes the lobster wins..."
Joe: I have, and it is! Favas were in farmers markets a month ago, so I'm not sure where 2 Amys is getting theirs, but the place seems to have impeccable ingredients.
And you're on track w the recipe strategy -- I might throw in some lemon juice to brighten.
You know, if I painted this cast red, it would look claw-like.
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Clifton, Va.: Raw Milk is fine if you have a trusted source. It makes a better cheese and even better ice cream. Nothing worse than homogenized and pasteurized milk, taste-wise.
Yech! Now I understand why on a massive scale it's not a good option, but please, in cheese. The USDA needs to wake up!
Sally Fallon: Yes, raw milk should be produced on a small scale. The demand for raw milk that we have created had resulted in a renaissance of small farms all over the country. When farmers can sell their milk directly, they make anywhere from 5 to 20 times more for it than when they sell it to the dairy company. So small farms can really be prosperous when they sell raw milk. If you go to the powerpoint presentation at realmilk.com you will find some information on the economics of raw milk at the end of the presentation
We know so much more about raw milk than we used to. Raw milk contains its own built in safety system and if the cows are on grass, the farm is small and the farmer follows our production and testing protocol (testing is much easier than it used to be), then the customers can be assured of a safe product.
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Chantilly: Hi foodies. I saw gooseberries at my local farmers market and want to know what they are and what to do with them? I'd have asked the person at the stand, but there was a long line of customers.
Jane Black: I love gooseberries. I don't know if they're English but I always think of them that way, along with currants. They're tart and light and are great for jams, jellies, pies and, of course, gooseberry fool -- a classic English dessert.
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Richmond, Va.: This question maybe should have gone in the gardening chat, but I didn't think of it until today and it is technically food-related.
I live in a townhouse and decided to experiment with pots of herbs on my front doorstep. I bought rosemary, dill and basil a couple of months ago and, despite my complete ignorance of plants, they have been doing well. This week I added oregano, thyme and sage to my collection. When I first started doing this, I purchased some cheap plastic pots that had some sort of built in water drainage system. Yesterday I was at Goodwill and saw some very pretty flower pots - two of them had the ubiquitous hole in the bottom, but most of them did not. How necessary is that drainage hole? I don't want to kill my new herbs with my desire to spruce up their living arrangements.
Joe: Adrian Higgins verified my impulse and says that yes, drainage is essential, esp. for herbs. So drill some!
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N.Y., N.Y.: Concerning the health benefits of red wine, do they also apply to red wine vinegar?
Bonnie: Some studies have shown that red wine vinegar contains anthocyanins and antioxidant action. But man, I can't think of the proportions to which you'd have to use it that would register a healthful benefits.
We're getting some mighty interesting questions today...
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Philadelphia, Pa.: Is a stand mixer necessary when a recipe calls for one? I would love to try out that s'mores semi-freddo recipe someone linked to last week, but I do not have a stand mixer. Is the benefit that it's easier and that you'll probably actually mix something for five minutes if you don't have to stand there doing it yourself? Usually I just stop reading and don't even attempt a recipe that calls for a stand mixer. Thanks for any tips, I'll get around to buying a mixer someday!
Bonnie: Sometimes yes, sometimes no. For those semifreddo smores, I think the answer's yes. It calls for beating heavy cream to firm peaks, then beating egg yolks to a nice ribbony state, then slowly pouring boiling hot sugar syrup into the yolks and beating for 8 minutes. That last step is harder to do if you're holding a hand mixer, and much harder if you're beating by hand. Not to mention the upper arm workout involved!
Check eBay, Craigslist, holiday sales. A stand mixer is great to have if you like to bake.
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Washington, D.C.: Hi. Today's delicious-looking recipe for salmon tacos calls for using a "fish spatula." How is that different from any other spatula?
Thanks!
Bonnie: A fish spatula is the wide, very thin one with wide slits; usually metallic. It's quite flexible, so that it can pick up a delicate fillet and possibly keep it in one piece. If you don't have one, a 2-spatula maneuver (one under, one to catch the turning fillet) can work just fine.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Jane -- loved your piece on the community restaurant and the fact that it will include raw food -- real raw food, not just salad. Are there any other efforts in metro D.C.? Will there be more articles about this? I'm really interested to learn more about this "diet"
Jane Black: I don't know of any other raw restaurants in the works. But if you are interested in learning about the diet, you could contact the woman who was quoted, Sharon Greenspan. She's a nutrition consultant who advises people on how to go raw. At the very least, she (or her site) could point you to books to do research in. Her web site is www.wildsuccess.us
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fresh for the road?: We're invited to a dinner Friday night that will require about 30 minutes in the car. I'd like to bring either a dish to share, or a non-alcoholic beverage to share (host does not drink). Would love to use the ABUNDANT cukes from our garden, and/or our fresh herbs (garden yield also includes beets and their greens, a handful of green beans, a handful of cherry toms, some edible flowers including borage). And I'd be over the moon if there is some Olympic symbolism to the dish, since we will be missing the opening ceremonies.
I have no idea what the host is cooking. I do know we will be outdoors.
Thanks!
Jane Black: I can't speak to Olympic symbolism but a local cooking teacher Rebekah Jewell gave us a great recipe last summer for Sichuan cucumber salad. It's a refreshing starter or side dish.
Sally Fallon: There are many recipes for healthy non-alcoholic soft drinks in Nourishing Traditions, including kombucha, a delicious nonalcoholic beverage from Russia.
They are somewhat complicated to make, but you can also purchase kombucha at health food stores and Whole Foods Market.
There is a crying need in this country for health soft drinks. Many traditional cultures had healthy soft drinks--there were fermented to produce lactic acid, not alcohol, and provided the body with minerals, enzymes, good bacteria and lactic acid. They helped with digestion and gave a lift without jolting the adrenal glands as modern soft drinks do.
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Arlington, Va.:"I should have known that things were going a bit too far when the cookbook was named 'Circus Food: Putting the Big Top into Your Kitchen' and was written by only half of a former knife throwing duo."
Joe: A bit long -- I'd need cue cards to remember -- but I like the spirit.
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culinary hurt joke:"I suppose I shouldn't have used the same kitchen tool for all my tasks."
Joe: Hmm...
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comic food answer: The lobster always wins.
Joe: That's two crustaceans.
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Washington, D.C.: On the injury....
Trying to be hip... Forty takes for a YouTube bread kneading video...
Joe: You mean I have to TRY to be hip?
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how did you hurt your hand?:"I don't care how much weight Jeff Tunks lost, he's still heavier than he looks."
Joe: Ah, an inside-baseball one. Cool.
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How about this?:"I took class with The Swedish Chef from the Muppets."
Joe: That's two muppet-oriented answers!
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one more for the goat cheese:"How'd you hurt your hand?"
"It was worth it; I got two seats at Ko."
Jane Black: This is a winner!
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Calgary, Canada: How did you hurt your hand?
Well, all I can say is I'll never do -that- to a chicken leg again!
Joe: Good use of itals...
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Bethesda Mom: In today's 40 min recipe, it calls for using a "fish spatula" to turn the salmon over. How does this differ from a regular spatula?
Also for Joe: "Last time I try to play the mandoline!"
Thanks!
Joe: Your first part was answered by Ms B earlier. And the second part -- good use of homonyms!
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When people ask you about how you injured your hand...: you could say:
Don't feel sorry for me... feel sorry for the NYTimes reporter (insert your favorite nemesis here) sporting the big black eye who tried to steal story ideas from me!
Joe: But what if I have no NYT nemesis? ;-)
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Chevreville, U.S.A.: Oh, how I love goat cheese. And a good food-related excuse for injury. Let's see...
"My tiramisu called for ladyfingers, and I tried the wrong kind of substitution."
"I can't say exactly, but here's a tip: If Tony Bourdain asks you to arm-wrestle, say No."
"Whatever happened, I blame the food bloggers."
"I was competing on the underground version of Iron Chef -- the secret ingredient was PAIN."
Joe: Is that first one a comment on my femininity? It's OK; I'm secure.
I vote for the bloggers one. Well done.
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finger surgery: nudge, nudge, wink, wink - the wife - know what I mean?
Joe: It needs a TINY bit more specificity, no?
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Columbus, Ohio: For Joe: "Rachael Ray wasn't too happy about the direction the interview was taking."
Also, what does one do with comte cheese? Cook with it, eat it with crackers?
Thanks!
Jane Black: Comte is a cheese from eastern France, sort of like gruyere but with more sweet butterscotchy notes. (I mean that in a good way.) You can use it for anything. It's great in quiche or a mushroom tart; it also makes a mean grilled cheese. But it's also good on a cheese plate with crackers.
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Rockville: Hi there. I recently made a meal for me and my husband. Other than the onion soup mix (still in powder form), he was okay with it. I really liked it and would like to have it again, but is there something I could use in place of the soup mix? My husband's issue is that he doesn't like onions and it was just too strong of a flavor. Thanks!
Joe: Hi, Rockville -- is it just me, or are you being mighty mysterious about just what it was that you actually made? Before we can suggest a soup mix sub, could you tell us what we're subbing it in?
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Joe: Jason isn't feeling the love -- or the hate -- today! Where are our boozers?
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yummy purple cabbage slaw: The red cabbage salad from Israel calls for 1/2 cup vinegar. Can I use distilled white vinegar? I was always under the impression there was a bit of mayo or something else in there to make the dressing look a bit white.
Bonnie: Yes you can. Feel free to add a bit of mayo.
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dried mushroom: Make use of the broth in which you've re-hydrated the mushrooms to make a veggies etc filled rice. Use broth to cook rice instead of water. C'est magnifique.
Bonnie: Ah, so.
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What happened to your hand?: The lobster kept fighting.
Joe: That's three.
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How about ...: I was just sitting in the office, doing a sketch of Tom Sietsema in profile, when ...
Joe: Not bad. Not bad. But you're assuming I've seen Tom in person, out of disguise...
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Baltimore, Md.: Thanks for the butter recipe, I can't wait to try it! My 2 year old LOVES butter. Last night as I was trying to set the table, she somehow got hold of the butter (the soft spread kind that comes in a tub) and ate ALL of it. By the time I realized, she was using her fingers to scrape the remaining butter out and licking them clean. So it was nice to see in today's article that eating a lot of butter might not be so bad after all!
Bonnie: That was a bit of unintended synergy, all the butter today.
Shaking the cream into submission may be easier if you have a second or third person to hand off to. Make sure you get all the liquid out of it; if you don't you'll smell the sourness in a day or so. I think if you're using it to put on bread, I'd add a small pinch of salt.
Sally Fallon: We hear this kind of story often--children getting hold of butter or a pound of cooked bacon and eating it all--that's because our children are fat-starved. They need animal fats for neurological development, lung development (the lungs cannot work without saturated fat), growth, and many, many other functions. And a study out of Sweden recently found that children put on lowfat diets ended up fatter than those put on normal diets. The dietary guidelines that impose a lowfat diet on children at the age of two have a lot of terrible consequences.
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Denver, Colo.: Hi there-
I've received some kale and fresh beets with greens in my CSA box - never cooked either before.
Any ideas?
Jane Black: I'll let other answer too but I'll once more promote my favorite way to cook beets. Wash and then wrap them in foil with a pat of butter and a sprinkle of brown sugar and salt. Roast in a hot oven until tender. (Then you can easily slip off the skins.) You can also do them on the grill in a foil pack.
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Washington, D.C.: I was really interested to see the article on CSAs today. I've been thinking about joining one, but I'm nervous that my fiance and I won't be able to go through everything in the box before the next round. I'm definitely into creative cooking with whatever I get, but I worry about everything spoiling. Does anyone have this problem? Do you think it's cheaper to join a CSA than to buy everything at the farmer's market or grocery store?
Thanks!
Jane Black: It can go either way. You really need to think about your summer schedules, how much you eat out and, probably, be alright with missing a pickup or two. (Very often, leftovers go to charity.)
For me personally, I alternately love it and feel confined. It's great to have it every week and to learn to cook with whatever is available. Equally, there are weeks I'm not cooking and I end up making an enormous batch of ratatouille just to be sure it doesn't go to waste.(Also, I like going to the farmers market and with my share I often don't need anything!)
I've solved the problem to some extent this year by sharing a share with Joe. So if one of us is away or going to be in a lot of restaurants, the other one can take it.
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Bakery in Montpelier: Gesine's bakery for real French macaroons; Gesine is the sister of a rather famous Arlingtonian. www.gesine.com
Joe: Thanks!
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Re: Semifreddo: I made the strawberry semifreddo in a mold. I let it thaw about 10-15 mins and the outer edges were showing some softening. I had a hard time getting a knife through it though, because the middle stayed hard frozen. I heated the knife and let the slices stay out another 10 minutes, and we were still hacking at the center bits to get through it with forks....
Bonnie: Thanks for continuing the dialogue. Maybe your strawberries were more watery than usual, is all I can think of. That would account for the extra crystallization. The sample we had was creamy, and the one Domenica made for the photos certainly was too... look closely and you can see it melting around the edges.
Hope you try it again, and please report back.
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Joe: should not have followed his mother-in-law's recipe for finger sandwiches...
Joe: You took the ladyfinger idea and neutered it! Good!
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On the hand.....:...And I just had to try out all the rickey recipes we featured this week...
Joe: Aha. A self-boozing reference...
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For Joe: How about: Mincing jalapenos can be unnerving.
or
Open-handed generosity always makes food taste better.
Hope you have a reasonably comfy cast and easy recovery.
Joe: The nerve! And thanks. (Vicodin is helping.)
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where are the boozers?: Where do you think all the jokes are coming from!
Joe: Of course. Silly me. Which martini (or rickey) are you on?
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Answer to questions about your injured hand...: I hurt my hand writing such big tips on dinner checks.
Joe: One for (or from?) our waiter friends...
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Rockville, Md.: What about:
Who knew that making vegetable garnishes could cause repetitive stress injuries?
Not very macho, but blaming a radish rose for your injury could be fun.
Joe: Like I said, I'm secure, so no worries on the non-macho aspect.
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Stuffed Tomatoes: Hello, I am making stuff tomatoes soon. I am going to hollow out a tomato and stuff it with rice, cheese, a bit of the tomato pulp, garlic, salt and pepper. I will drizzle with olive oil and bake (roast?) until finished. What kind of cheese would you suggest using? Thank you!
Bonnie: Parmesan, fontina, mozzarella or asiago. Heck, blend 'em all together.
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D.C.: keeping herbs fresh: Hi! Hope it's not too early to file... When it comes to fresh-picked herbs that still have roots attached, does it prolong freshness to add a packet of cut-flower food to the water I stand them in? Or does that stuff make the herbs inedible? I bought a huge bunch of basil that started turning brown in less than a day and on day 3 is almost all brown, and I'd like to learn to do better. Thanks!
Bonnie: Do not use packets of floral preservatives! Not edible. Step away. Their contents are somewhat mysterious and may contain toxic chemicals, because there may be water clarifiers in the mix as well. The Aquaplus packet I have list: "Contents: 5 g powder." Just meant for the daisies, not for you and me.
Was your basil in the fridge? It's a pretty delicate herb and may have turned brown because the temp was too cold. The best way is still plopping roots/stems in some water, or wrapping the whole herb in damp paper towels. Or growing your own so you can pick what you need. Or processing and freezing the chopped basil as pesto, or with water as ice cubes.
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cold beets, bleeding hearts?: I'd like to roast some beets from our garden, then use them chilled and chopped in a cold salad -- either couscous or orzo, I think, with some other veg and a vinaigrette. Are the beets likely to bleed all over and make everything pink? I don't want this to look unappetizing...
Thanks.
Bonnie: If they're chilled, there should be no bleeding. (hey, does this sound like a Health chat?)
Forgo worries by chopping/slicing them separately, and serving with the couscous or orzo as more of a composed salad.
What's unappetizing about pink, tho?
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Rockville, Md.: How can we busy people of today reconcile healthy eating with little time for cooking? Where lies the line that separates processed from natural foods? How healthy are canned foods? Are there any convenience foods or prepared meals that are safe and healthy?
Jane Black: Well, there's a question. One we try to get at week after week in the section. There's no easy answer. A lot of it is judgment.
That said, I do think -- and I bet Sally would agree -- that if you want to eat healthy, whole foods, it requires some cooking. Saying I want to eat healthy but I don't want to cook just doesn't work -- unless you have a huge budget to buy all organic prepared foods. If you know how to cook, cooking doesn't have to take that long. I think the problem is that, sadly, too few people have the skills.
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Peppered with Peppers: Hello Free Rangers! Pepper question for you here. I am the lucky recipient of lots (and lots) of peppers of many types - bell, cubanelle, banana, hot... You name it. No worries about salmonella, these are home grown in Virginia. But, what do I do with them all???? I have stuffed, I have roasted, I have gazpacho-ed, I have salsa-ed, and I am OUT of ideas. Please, help me. Bonus points for something I can freeze or that will keep long enough for me to enjoy them all!!! Thanks so much!
Joe: I have the perfect recipe for you. Take 5 lbs assorted chili peppers, add to medium box with proper padding, seal up and address to Joe Yonan, Food Editor, The Washington Post, 1150 15th St NW, Washington, DC 20071.
But seriously, a couple things come to mind. If you have a pressure canner, you could put up tons of salsa. But a better idea for something that needs no special equipment would be drying. Some people hang peppers in airy spots to dry or put them outside on screens or in a dehydrator, of course, but you can also do it in the oven.
Just set it to the lowest possible setting (150-200 degrees), cut peppers in half and stem/seed them, and put them cut side down on cookie sheets. Depending on their size and the heat, it could take overnight or all day; just wait till they're fully dry and brittle. Let them cool, then store in airtight container.
Then you can use them as needed in recipes later; just cover with hot water to reconstitute or use directly in soups or stews.
That is, if you don't want to give them to me. ;-)
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D.C.: Stephanie Sedgwick says in today's column that she has become good at produce storage. I know she is not here today, but could she post some of her storage techniques? I come home from the farmers' market laden with wonderful stuff, and then have to figure out how to use it all before it goes bad. Thanks.
Bonnie: That's a splendid idea. We'll ding her for it as soon as she returns from a well-deserved vacation.
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re: Mushroom soup recipe: It looks tasty, I want to try it tomorrow. That said, how the heck do some mushrooms and noodles add up to 431 calories/serving? Anything to be done to bring that total down? Thanks!
Bonnie: Cut back on the amount of noodles, or use rice-stick noodles. We used store-bought vegetable broth for the nutritional analysis, too.
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Clifton, Va.: Can you recommend an interesting single malt scotch from the Highlands? Cost not an issue
Jason Wilson: Well, if price is really no object, then pick up a bottle of Macallan 1976 vintage. It retails at about $1,500 a bottle.
For the rest of us, and Isle of Jura 10-year is an affordable option.
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Vienna, Va.: Please help me figure out what to make for a few friends coming over to watch the Olympics on Friday night. There will be four of us total, and we'll be hungry. Thing is, I'm just getting back into town from a week long business trip on Thursday evening, and I have to work during the day on Friday, so I don't have a ton of time for grocery shopping and cooking. I want food that is festive and summery. Doesn't need to be a big main dish type of meal, lots of heavy appetizers would do as well. Either way. Oh, and since it is company, I'd like something not too terribly run of the mill. Thanks!!!!
Bonnie: You could start with no-cook Chicken and Hoisin Rolls...
Joe: I know you said doesn't need to be one-dish, but I just made this amazing and quick seafood paella for a dinner party (one of many) on my Cape Cod vacation, and it was a summery beaut.
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Hand answer: Someone took finger food literally....
Joe: Finger reference #3.
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Ashburn, Va.:"What we can say is that the people living to 80-100 today are those that grew up before the second world war and were eating plenty of butter and eggs and organ meats--much more than we eat today. "
But weren't these people also more physically active too? They did not have many of the conveniences that we have today, like cable tv, internet and Wii's.
I see many reports on how other cultures eat and their rate of heart attacks, diseases, etc. and that Americans should mirror their diets. What I don't see in these studies is if the lifestyle of people in those cultures were included in the study. In our culture, we drive EVERYWHERE, especially if we are not in a downtown area. In other cultures, they walk to the nearby pub and meet up with friends they've had for decades. We tend to sit on the couch and watch tv because our lifelong friends live all over the country. I also think that extended families in other cultures seem so much more important and involved with day to day life than in America. That seems to play a factor too.
Anyway, getting off of soapbox now.
Sally Fallon: Actually it is kind of a misconception that we aren't as active as traditional peoples. In a time and motion study of Australian Aborigines, they surprisingly found that those who had gone to live in the cities where they had busses, cars, etc, got more physical activity than those living a primitive life. There is a lot of sitting and standing around in those villages.
But of course, exercise is important. And the great thing about a good traditional diet is that you feel like exercising, and you have the energy to exercise. In fact, when your diet is really nutritious, you cant' help but exercise.
We spend more time today on cerebral activities like reading, writing, clerical work, etc. But these activities also need good nutrition. The brain needs fat and cholesterol for thinking!
It has amazed me over the years how much more thinking activities I am able to do as my health has improved--I used to be a basket case after dinner, but now I still have the mental clarity to write a couple of hours late into the evening.
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Attleboro, Mass.: To the poster looking for good food in Montpelier: go a bit farther north and eat at Hen of the Woods in Waterbury. All locally grown - excellent and in a lovely setting.
Jane Black: I second this recommendation. I've eaten at Hen of the Woods three times (um, every trip to Vermont) and it's always fabulous.
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Not Rickey Related: but if it's slow for JDub, maybe he can answer a mystery that's plagued me since the movie Zodiac. Jake Gyllenhaal and Robert Downey Jr put back a dozen or so of a blue cocktail called an "Aqua Velva". There's not that much agreement on the web or among bartenders I've asked, most of whom hadn't heard of it. Please don't tell me Hollywood made something up!
Jason Wilson:
I'm afraid it may be true that Hollywood made that one up. At least, I've never seen it anywhere. I have, however, seen a blue-green cocktail in Philadelphia called a Barbicide, that came with a little plastic hotel comb as a garnish...
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Injury: A karate chop cannot be used in place of a cleaver.
Joe: Vivid.
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Whole/Raw Milk Question: I really like the taste of skim milk, having been brought up on it. That said, I eat my fair share of unpasteurized cheeses, true cured salamis and include olive oil, butter and pork fat in my diet. Am I okay or should I seriously consider switching to whole milk (which tastes like cream to me)?
Sally Fallon: As long as you are getting good fats elsewhere, I guess it is OK to consume skim milk--be sure you are eating butter!
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Arlington, Va: For poor Joe -- "You think this looks bad, you should see the veal!"
Ba dum dum.
Joe: Perfect.
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Washington, D.C.: Recipes for Chinese food often call for xiaoshing wine. I see bottles in the condiments sections of Asian markets. Is this what I'm looking for? Just want to make sure I'm not making a mistake and buying the equivalent of 'cooking wine' instead of the real thing. Thank you.
Bonnie: I think you're seeing the right thing. Shao Xing; the bottle usually has squared corners, 25 ounces. Asian markets almost always have it, but not so much intl. aisles of big grocery stores.
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Hands down...: I think next time I'll use a bottle opener.
Joe: Punchy. Like it.
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Garlic Overload: Any suggestions - other than roasting and 40 clove chicken - for tons of garlic?
Jane Black: Can't think of something that uses tons of garlic but I'd just start putting it in everything. Garlicky greens, garlic mashed potatoes, a garlicky pesto.
A quick google search found this recipe from the famous garlic restaurant, the Stinking Rose: garlic relish. Can't vouch for it except that it calls for 1/4 cup.
Joe: I've had whipped garlic at Lebanese restos before but haven't made it. You might play around with this recipe -- although I'd tend to agree with the commenters who suggest roasting the cloves first. It uses a full 3 cups!
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peppers: Can them! As long as you don't mind them pickled, you don't need a pressure canner, just a boiling water bath. And you can fit a lot of peppers into a jar, once they're cut into large chunks.
Joe: Yes!
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Washington, D.C.: "How I Hurt my Hand": Note to self -- not -everything- should go down the kitchen sink.
Joe: A disposal reference. I'm into it (so to speak).
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Boston, Mass.: I've only had rickeys served as a non-alcoholic drink, usually with picnic food. Is the original more of an aperitif or could you recommend something to serve it with?
Jason Wilson: It's interesting you should mention the non-alcoholic rickey. In my first newspaper job, I covered Wildwood, New Jersey, and they always claimed that the lime rickey was invented there, on the boardwalk. But that drink was non-alcoholic and I don't believe that was true. (Wildwood was always making things up). Anyway, I do know the non-alcoholic drink was popular in NYC in the 1940s, but don't know the connection to Col. Rickey's drink.
Regardless, I think the rickey is something you should drink by itself, sort of the same way you'd enjoy a julep on a hot summer afternoon. Col. Rickey drank his in the morning. I wouldn't mix too much food up with it, except maybe pretzels or chips or nuts.
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Philadelphia, Pa.: For the pepper-heavy poster... for bell peppers, especially yellow and red, I cut them into strips, roast til soft and partly blackened, and then freeze in thin layers so I can break off however many I want for use in other recipes. That way I have them for red pepper-feta dip, red pepper-tomato sauce for pasta, draping over crostini, tossing into ropa vieja or other stewed meat, etc. The possibilities are endless and they keep a long time. Check the cookbook The Improvisational Cook for lots of ideas on how to use what she calls Magic Peppers.
Joe: Fab idea.
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how you hurt yourself: I was just trying to get the fresh, raw milk like Sally suggested.
Joe: Subtitled: When Good Cows Go Bad.
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Hurt hand . . . : Turns out there is no easy substitution for ladyfingers.
-Yes, admittedly taking from the prior mention of ladyfingers.
I also will extend love to Jason - I love a good rickey; this will give me motivation to slide out from underneath my dirty martini kick.
Jason Wilson: Thanks for the love, hurt hand. Definitely step away from the dirty martini for the rest of the summer.
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Arlington, Va.: For Joe:
There's a serrated edge?
Joe: LOL.
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Denver, Colo.: I'm not generally a milk fan, but I've never had raw milk - what's the difference in taste?
Jane Black: I've only had it a few times but the only way I can explain it is that it tastes more lively, more like milk. (Which if you don't like milk could be a good or a bad thing.)
I think the best way to sample the difference between raw and pasteurized is to get your hands on some raw cream. Oh my. It's amazing. And if you don't want a whole pint or can't get it, there's usually an old-fashioned cream top on the raw milk.
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Full Fat, Low Fat... tomayto, tomahto: I need fats and red meats. A dear friend can't handle them. I can't do much sugar, and what I eat has to be encased in fat to be tolerable. She can eat sugar all day and still be functional. Yes, we're a bit off the normal mark.
My point is simply to try things and get ideas of what to tweak so it suits you. Plenty of vegetarian cultures raise happy, healthy people.
Healthy and happy are good. Find your own way there.
Stepping off soap box now.
Jane Black: Everyone needs to find their own way.
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Spirits: Inspired by a 1 p.m. martini and its potential for helping me say something more clever than my sober mind can conjure...
Any go-to recipes for my drink of choice -- Pisco sours? Good but not outrageously priced pisco?
I've worked at this and think I can get fairly close to what I've had in peru with limes (not lemons), sugar syrup (or super-fine sugar) but am still not finding a dead-on pisco here... The mixing kind, not the drinking kind.
Jason Wilson: Well, it's 5 o'clock somewhere...
Here's a Pisco Sour recipe:
Ice
1 1/2 oz pisco (whatever brand you've got)
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
1 tsp sugar
1/2 fresh egg white
1 dash Angostura bitters
With ice, shake pisco, lemon juice, sugar, and egg white well and strain into cocktail glass. Dash the bitters atop the foam created by the egg white.
Be sure to use real egg white, or it will never taste the right way.
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Culinary Accident Slows Typist: Kudos to Joe for more than keeping up on the keyboard!
Joe: Thanks! My GOOD hand hurts, now...
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For Jason--: Hiya Jason,
Gin rickeys sound okay, but my question for you is: since raspberries are in season, how 'bout a raspberry or blackberry martini? I would assume raspberry vodka, maybe freeze a couple of berries for a garnish, but what other booze should I throw in?
Thanks
Jason Wilson: I would not recommend raspberry for anything.
If you want to use seasonal berries, why not try making a blackberry caipirinha?
Blackberry Caipirinha
2 oz. cachaça
6-8 blackberries
1/2 Lime, cut in four wedges
1 tsp sugar or 1/2 oz simple syrup
ice
Muddle the lime, blackberries and sugar in an old-fashioned or rocks glass. Fill glass with ice, add cachaça, and stir. Garnish with a blackberry.
Joe: Jason meant he wouldn't recommend raspberry vodka, not raspberries.
And... yum.
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Joe: Well, our excess moisture is gone and our top has begun to brown, so you know what that means -- done!
Thanks for the great q's today, all -- and thanks to Sally and Jason for all their help answering them.
Before we get to the giveaways, the real story of how I hurt my finger: I'll just say that these are the most expensive cookbook shelves in the history of the world, paid for mostly by Aetna Health Fund (I hope).
And now, the winners: "Goat Cheese" goes to the chatter who suggested I blame it on the food bloggers, and "Nourishing Traditions" goes to the Arlington chatter whose answer had me fighting veal. Thanks for helping me smile through the pain. Send addresses to food@washpost.com.
Until next time, happy cooking, reading, and eating...
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