Green Fashion
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Thursday, September 4, 2008; 1:00 PM
Want to be both chic and eco but not sure what green fashion means? The experts from Sprig are here to offer advice on eco-friendly designers, clothes, fabrics, shoes and bags and everything else having to do with living a life that is both stylish AND environmental. At Sprig, you'll find tips on green shopping, fashion, entertaining, decorating and more.
Sprig's editor Jeanie Pyun and Bahar Shahpar, creative director of The Four Hundred, were online Thursday, Aug. 28, at 1 p.m. ET.
Jeanie Pyun is founding editor of Sprig. She was the editor of Organic Style magazine back when "organic style" was considered an oxymoron, and co-editor of InStyle Home magazine, where celebrity and style unquestionably and always go together. She thinks that shopping and doing good can be uttered in the same sentence. Shahpar is also the founder and principal designer of the Bahar Shahpar eco fashion label.
For all the latest on environmental science, policy and living, visit washingtonpost.com's Green Section.
A transcript follows.
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Jeanie Pyun: Hi, everyone, thanks so much for your questions and for your patience -- apologies for last week. Bahar Shahpar is an amazing green expert, runs the first sustainable fashion showroom called The Four Hundred, and designs a fabulous eponymous line that we've featured on The Mike and Juliet Show....
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Bahar Shahpar: Hello everyone! Sustainable design and development are two things that I'm very passionate about, so I'm excited to be here and answer all of your questions!
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Escondido, Calif.: What is "peace" silk? I heard it has something to do with the ethical treatment of silkworms. How does that work? Thanks! -Worm Grrrl
Bahar Shahpar: "Peace silk", or Ahimsa silk, refers to the fact that during conventional silk production, the silkworms are soaked in hot water in order to degum the fiber and before it is reeled into fiber, killing the silkworm inside the cocoon. With Ahimsa silk production, the silkworms are allowed to develop to maturation and break free from the cocoon, hence its popularity with consumers who are concerned with the ethical treatment of animals.
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State College, Pa.: I'm really enjoying these chats -- thanks for doing them. Any thoughts on where I can get eco-friendly, plus-sized maternity clothes? I realize this is a really niche area, but just thought I'd ask. Thanks much.
Jeanie Pyun: Hi, State College, PA!
Thanks for the compliment! We love doing them, too. As for your question, there are tons of places that make organic and eco-friendly maternity clothes. Speesees has adorable baby and mom stuff. The greenest thing you can do, though, and it's pretty cheap, is ... hand me downs! Also, use clothes you already own...like empire waist dresses, loose tunics, and there's are lots of maternity belly bands that will allow you to use your regular bottoms for as late as 5+ months. Not buying a lot of clothes you may not wear again is very eco friendly after all....Saffona is one of the only plus size green lines we know about...will send you a link to our write-up in a sec....
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New York: I love bright colors and am having trouble finding labels that have cool color palettes and eco-friendly dyes. Do you have any suggestions?
Jeanie Pyun: Hi, New York,
Yes, I've noticed there's been an emphasis on "back to black" and white and classy neutrals, too, but who doesn't love color?
Sure, there are lots of designers that use color, but it kinda depends on your style. Are you more of a casual person? You might like Loyale's or Stewart and Brown's simple pretty silhouettes and colors -- pinks and blues and such -- in organic cottons. Viridis Luxe is always doing something color-saturated with their bamboo blends. Loomstate is making purple denim this fall(and it's all about purple this fall). If you're a little more "crunchy" as they say, Earth and Sky often features color. More classic and want to splurge a big? John Patrick Organic has pieces with a classic yet modern American vibe and isn't afraid of color. Bahar Shahpar (naturally) isn't either, and has a fabulous fun vibe, as does Kelly B. Hope this helps!
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washingtonpost.com: Saffrona Ruched Dress in Berry Soy
Jeanie Pyun: Hi, here's the link to the rare plus size green design line. More like this, please! :-)
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Alexandria, Va.: Why the resurgence of fur and leather in fashion? The barbaric cruelty should be self-evident (it is effectively impossible to produce inexpensive fur in bulk quantities unless the animals are butchered and skinned literally alive, which unfortunately is perfectly legal).
Jeanie Pyun: Hi, Alexandria!
Oh, you know, fashion always goes in cycles. It's tough -- on the one hand, animal production is the number one water polluter and number two global-warming-gas contributor (more than all the vehicles put together), but it's not very likely that we are going to stop eating meat altogether. (Although I secretly believe -- meaning I don't talk about it aloud over dinner as that would make me an active hypocrite -- that eating any flesh will seem as repugnant as cannibalism to our more evolved selves in the futures....) And since most or all leather used in accessories is byproduct leather (byproducts of food production, unfortunately) -- i.e. not wasting it -- and since using the whole critter is kinda how our American pioneers survived, leather for fashion is not likely to go away any time soon either. However, there are tons of inexpensive vegan (i.e. no animal products involved) shoes and bags...in fact there is a site called Vegetarian Shoes and Bags, which I recommend, as well as Alternative Outfitters, for no-leather accessory options. Also Kaight, a store in NYC that is also online, has this kickin' line of recycled plastic shoes called Melissa and one design was a collaboration with one of my fashion idols, Vivienne Westwood. How eco-chic-o-rama is that. I'll send some links for browsing, too....
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Escondido, Calif.: Is linen considered an eco-friendly fiber?
Bahar Shahpar: Used as a fiber since Neolithic times, linen is one of the earliest textiles known to civilization, and its production today still rests on historical tradition. Beyond its well-honed quality and the luxury that it implies, linen is also one of the strongest fibers in existence, so it's both durable and long-lasting. The flax plant, from which linen is culled, is both incredibly hardy and pest-resistant, so it doesn't require the use of pesticides or toxic fertilizers in order to flourish, and it is generally processed mechanically into the linen fiber, again avoiding the harsh chemicals needed with other cellulose fibers, making linen a naturally sustainable textile.
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washingtonpost.com: Spring: Green Fashion, Bags
Jeanie Pyun: Here you go -- just note (and please don't be too mad) not every item here is vegan or vegetarian, although many are....
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washingtonpost.com: Sprig Green Fashion, Products, Shoes and Boots
Jeanie Pyun: as promised -- again, not everything here is leather -free, but there are options and ideas....
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Alexandria, Va.: In an effort to be somewhat environmental by fixing what I already have instead of buying more things, how hard is it to replace a zipper on a pair of knee high boots? Can any shoe repair person do it? Can anyone recommend a person in Northern Virginia to do it?!
Bahar Shahpar: Reuse is definitely my favorite element of sustainable living -- tailoring a garment or fixing a broken piece of hardware is much simply than you'd expect, certainly less expensive than replacing it, and by patronizing your local tailor or cobbler , you are supporting local business and artisan trades.
Depending on where the seam is on your boots, the zipper replacement should be fairly simple, and most shoe repair shops should be able to do it without a problem - sorry I can't give you a local recommendation!
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Flagstaff, Ariz.: I just have to say: the "greenest" way to dress is the way our grandmothers of the Depression did: reduce, re-use, recycle.
My hippie-chic friends here in this hippie town show off their second hand bargains, their "re-made" outfits, and their home-spun dog hair (no kidding) hats. The knitters buy old sweaters at Good Will, unravel, wash the yarn, and re-knit. Others cut down old baggy fleece into new, funkier, more fitted one-of-a-kind styles.
And most fun of all, we have parties where we trade clothes and feel like we're starting fresh! Leftover clothes go back to the Good Will to become someone else's treasure.
My dilemma is that I have a 1940s-era fur coat that I can't figure out how to re-use. Thinking of re-lining a 1980's parka with it and going moosehunting with Sarah Palin...
Jeanie Pyun: LOL oh we could talk Sarah Palin all day....Totally agree with you, and a major kudos to you and your friends for re-knitting, re-making, and throwing those parties! A coat lining is a fabulous idea -- great for warmth and not so in-your-face. Also a mini-throw for a cold part of the house. You can also get ideas on how to recycle fur from Harricana, who make all kinds of accessories out of it and have preventing many, many, many fur coats from just moldering somewhere....I'll send a link....Also, to go back to re-using secondhand clothes, you don't necessarily need to be a genius with the needle. Some things Sprig staffers do here: cut off the bottoms of tights to make leggings (Brit), reline coats (like you Coryn), wear dresses backwards because sometimes they look even better like that (also Coryn), layer skirts and dresses so that a contrasting color peeps through or out underneath (Brit again). I tend to cut sleeves off to make them more summer-friendly and cut hems to make them more -- what's that old '90s word? -- deconstructionist. I also believe in making solo earrings into necklace pendants, charms and pins....Right on, Flagstaff!
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Brooklyn, N.Y.: Hi! Can someone explain to me what vegan leather is? It sounds oxymoronic, like tofu duck.
Bahar Shahpar: I completely agree that terms like "vegan leather" are very confusing -- in much the same way as vegetarian food, these terms are simply used to make the product sound more appealing. Vegan leather can refer to any product that looks or feels like or is meant to replace leather, such as PVC vinyl or polyurethane fabrics.
This is a good place to note that, although the conventional leather industry can be incredibly toxic and vegan products have the added benefit of avoiding ethical conflicts, leather replacements are very often NOT eco-friendly -- sometimes their production is much more toxic than any sort of leather tanning or treatment, so consider these factors when choosing a vegan or vegetarian product.
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ISO Dress: I need a dress to wear to an afternoon wedding in November. I am actually in the wedding party and can wear anything in a "fall" color. I want to wear a dark red. So it should be nice, not revealing, not long. Any ideas for me?
Jeanie Pyun: Hi, ISO,
Kate Organics has at least one dress in an autumnal color -- I'll send you a couple of links. Maybe Bahar can add to this....
Bahar Shahpar: Lara Miller has a beautiful color palette in her Fall collection, including a rich wine that might work for you. Here are a few of her signature hand-loomed bamboo dresses and stores where they're available:
Tiered Dee Dress in wine:
Stradaverde (http:/
Bio
Josie Dress in wine:
Vert & Vogue (1000 West Main St. Durham, NC USA 27701, 917-385-0578)
www.vertandvogue.com
Mitri Dress in wine:
Noelie Harmon (http:/
You can also try the Pivot online store for other great eco-friendly dresses:
http:/
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washingtonpost.com: Julianne Dress
Jeanie Pyun: here you go....
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washingtonpost.com: The Battalion Gabrielle Dress
Jeanie Pyun: here's another....
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washingtonpost.com: http:/
Jeanie Pyun: and this....
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Seattle, Fashion Central: So, we're eco-central here and the latest fashion trend is reduce reuse recycle - as in buying vintage clothing and accessorizing with a cool hat made out of recycled pop bottles and a laptop from recycled water bottles.
Is this true back East too?
Jeanie Pyun: Yes, you are indeed, Seattle, Fashion Central.... We did a study some years ago when some of us were working at a magazine called Organic Style and found that the Midwest was a little less receptive to green behaviors than the East Coast, which was behind the West Coast. I believe the cities in question were Chicago, New York and Los Angeles.
Jeanie Pyun: Yes, you are indeed, Seattle, Fashion Central.... We did a study some years ago when some of us were working at a magazine called Organic Style and found that the Midwest was a little less receptive to green behaviors than the East Coast, which was behind the West Coast. I believe the cities in question were Chicago, New York and Los Angeles. To answer your question: In New York, we're much more likely to seek vintage fashion than ever before but I think that has as much to do with Hollywood red carpets, celebrity weeklies and fan sites more than green. Right now, stores that accept fashion editors' and models' cast-offs are popular because you get pretty recent previously owned but high fashion goods (plus in this economy....) I don't see a lot of the more straightforward recycled fashion, however. New Yorkers are more likely to wear a "logo" or "label" which is why you're more likely to see a Anya Hindmarch (non-eco) I'm Not a Plastic Bag tote than, say, a recycled rubber tire messenger bag. I do think there are enclaves where more straightforward recycled fashion items are popular, like where the hipsters are, in whatever respective Eastern seaboard city....
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Boot Repair, VA: Please take your boot to Sal's Shoe Repair in Annandale (Rte 236 and Ravensworth). Those guys are amazing!!
Jeanie Pyun: Awesome suggestion! Thanks so much Boots Repair!
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Washington Heights, N.Y.C.: Hi Sprig, I'm having an argument with my friend over wool. Is this a "green" fiber or not?
Bahar Shahpar: "Green" is one of those terms that is often used interchangeably with "sustainable", and I think it's important to distinguish between them.
While wool is certainly a natural fiber and therefore much more eco-friendly (or "green") than anything synthetic, conventional wool production is anything but natural ¿ sheep are routinely overgrazed, fed pesticide-grown crops, and dipped in toxic chemicals to ward off pests. Because wool is produced in many different parts of the world using a wide variety of methods and regulations, it's extremely important to source wool from farms that treat their animals humanely.
Basically, in the hierarchy of sustainable fibers, wool is very close to the top, but the caveat, as with any fiber or fabric, is that you have to dig a bit deeper to find out what kind of wool the designer or manufacturer is using and where it is sourced from.
All of my wool jersey is purchased from Vermont Organic Fiber Company, which upholds the O-Wool mark, the highest industry standard for certified organic wool products. O-Wool yarns and fabrics¿the first accredited organic wool in the world¿are made only using wool that has been certified by USDA-accredited organic certification agencies, assuring that sheep are never dipped for parasites, given growth hormones, or genetically engineered. This commitment is carried all the way through the production process, with mills that are committed to handling and processing fibers in accordance with established organic standards and the most sustainable methods commercially available. The fabric is never bleached with harmful chemicals, so the end product is truly organic wool.
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Morristown, N.J.: What percent of your materials are Green? How did you get involved in this and decided to go to this direction?
Bahar Shahpar: I would say that 95% of the materials I use are "green" -- for stiffening purposes I still use conventional fusibles and interfacings, but otherwise I don't use any fabrics that aren't eco-friendly - I use a range of styles from natural fibers like linen and hemp to organic wool and cotton, to technological innovations like Ingeo and Tencel, and everything is dyed using either natural or low-impact dyes.
My line is essentially an extension of my lifestyle -- I am a city girl who appreciates the importance of aesthetics in my quality of life, but I've always struggled with how wasteful and superficial our consumer-driven economy is. When I started my line, I chose to approach it as a manufacturer, not a designer -- I wanted to rise to the challenge of critics who argued that sustainable products couldn't be created without sacrificing style or quality.
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N.Y., N.Y.: Bahar, why aren't more designers going "green"?
Bahar Shahpar: There are a multitude of reasons, but first and foremost, most companies/designers/manufacturers don't realize that sustainability is just as much about economic prosperity as it is about environmental and social responsibility. There are still a lot of misconceptions that "going green" is only about protecting the earth, and so it becomes easy for businesses to avoid making changes because it's too costly, too complicated, etc.
Hopefully, as we educate business leaders and corporate decision-makers about how sustainability can bring about actual quantifiable growth, more businesses will come around.
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Stillwater, Okla.: I know that sustainable, socially-conscious and eco-friendly clothing is more expensive to make than normal sweatshop clothes, but why must a pair of jeans cost $750 or a shirt be $450? Why can't going green be attainable for the common person? I know that people my age cannot afford such luxuries, so do you know when the price of green clothes will drop? Thanks.
Bahar Shahpar: It's basic economics - as consumer demand for responsibly-produced goods grows, more manufacturers will seek out sustainable materials, ordering in deeper quantities from the suppliers and thereby allowing them to offer much better prices.
Until then, there are mid-range options: H&M has a full organic line, and even Target and Wal-Mart offer organic cotton options.
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Jeanie Pyun: I'll just add that every day on Sprig.com, Regan Fletcher writes a Green Deal of the Day blog, in which she searched out less expensive green fashion, beauty and home items. She has a great idea and also writes a non-green bargains blog called Sharp Lily. I'll send a link....
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Sustainability: There are so many interesting words entering our lexicon. Bahar, I saw on your website that "sustainability" is part of your company's philosophy. Can you explain?
Bahar Shahpar: Sustainability is defined by the UN in this way:
"Sustainable development is a development that meets the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs and choose their own lifestyle. The requirement to make this development 'sustainable' applies to all countries and people."
Gro Harlem Brundtland: World Commission Report on Development, 1987
But sustainability as it applies to business simply means that we are trying to create a balance between ecological, social and economic concerns, while maintaining quality production and ensuring fair trade and appropriate working environments.
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washingtonpost.com: Sprig's Green Deal of the Day
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Bahar Shahpar: It was wonderful to hear your comments, questions, and criticisms -- developing an educated community of consumers is such a critical component in bringing sustainability into clearer focus for everyone. Please feel free to contact me with any additional questions at bahar@showroomfourhundred.com. Thanks so much!
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Arlington, Va.: Besides Bahar, who are some other green designers we should look for? Even better if their clothes are available outside NYC!
Bahar Shahpar: We carry several amazing brands here at the showroom, including two other womenswear lines -- Lara Miller and Sublet - as well as Del Forte denim, Cri de Coeur footwear, Ashley Watson leather goods, and TEICH handbags. Some of my other favorites are Covet, Ciel, Mociun, Olsen Haus footwear.
Jeanie Pyun: I'll just add that there are tons of designers out there, and at Sprig.com one of our sole purposes is to ferret them all out for you. Hit "Fashion" in the global navigation bar and you'll see oh the endless choices....:-)
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Jeanie Pyun: Okay, so we've gone quite a bit over....thanks so much for your questions and for Bahar's participation -- as usual, this was a grand, green pleasure! Have a great day!
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Editor's Note: washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions. washingtonpost.com is not responsible for any content posted by third parties.



