Dressing for Paris, bus options to NYC, underrated travel destinations and more
The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, September 29, 2008
2:00 PM
Got a travel-related question, comment, suspicion, warning, gripe, sad tale or happy ending? The Post Travel Section Flight Crew is at your service.
On the itinerary this week: sampling bourbon in Kentucky, living it up Mad Men-style in New York City, and bicycling in Bermuda.
All other travel topics are open as well. If you have insights, ideas or information to add to the discussion, just press the call button above your seat and we'll get to you as soon as we can. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.
We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.
A transcript follows.
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Scott Vogel: Good afternoon, fellow travelers. Time once again for our weekly Travel town hall meeting. Where are you going and/or where would you like to go? Here with me today to field your questions are Christina Talcott, Andrea Sachs and Carol Sottili.
After our contest a few weeks back asking for your nominees for the world's most overrated destination, one reader wrote in to ask if we'd consider the flip-side of the equation. So here we go. For this week's contest: What's the most UNDERRATED destination on the planet? Best idea with accompanying explanation wins a guidebook to the destination of your choice (inventory permitting). Okay, let's go...
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Washington DC: One more try! Could you suggest some reputable agencies specializing in Alaska travel? I'd like to get my parents a gift certificate for a trip next year, but want to leave their options open regarding companies, cruise or not, etc. Thanks!
Christina Talcott: Three companies to consider are All Alaska Tours (866-317-3325, www.alaskatours.com), Explore Tours (800-523-7405, www.exploretours.com) and Alaska Wildland Adventures (800-334-8730, www.alaskawildland.com), which we recommended in our Way to Go issue in February. In August, we ran a story by Dana Priest about planning an Alaska trip yourself, and she had some great suggestions, including spending the bulk of your budget on transportation - plane rides, boat tours, a four-wheel-drive rental car. She also recommended the travel guide http://milepost.com, which has tons of info about visiting Alaska. One option you might want to consider is buying your folks a "flightseeing" plane ride, maybe around Denali, which can get pricey but sounds incredible. Anyone out there have other suggestions?
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Bermuda non-stop flight?: You mentioned this in yesterday's article, that USAir flies non-stop from National. Please check again. I flew non-stop to Bermuda last Nov/Dec. One of the reasons to go there. Tried to book a similar trip for this year, sometime after Thanksgiving but before Christmas but unless it's hiding, the USAir non-stop will be gone by then.
Scott Vogel: Thanks for the heads-up. I think we're both right. Checking their Web site, it seems US Airways does indeed have a nonstop flight right now from National ... but only through Oct. 31. After that, I only saw one-stops that pass through Philadelphia. We should have included that info in the article. Thanks again for pointing it out.
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Charlottesville: What is the best bourbon you tried on your trip?
Scott Vogel: I got the chance to sample a small taste of Elijah Craig, 12-year-old bourbon, at the Heaven Hill distillery, and it was terrific. I'm into smoother tastes and the older the bourbon, the smoother it seems to get. Great stuff, as was lots of other bourbon I tried....
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Washington: Last week, I had a flight to Europe make an unscheduled landing due to equipment failure, which turned into an unscheduled night in Gander, Canada. Instead of arriving in Paris on the 20th, I arrived on the 21st, missing the wedding I was attending. What recourse will I have with the airline to at least have my unused hotel room in Paris for that night reimbursed?
Great piece on Kentucky!!
Carol Sottili: Go to the airline's Web page and do a search for "contract of carriage." It will state the details of the contract you entered into when buying the airline ticket, and will spell out what the airline will/will not reimburse. I'm guessing that you'll have a hard sell here.
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Washington, DC: I'm looking to travel to Canada at the end of the year or the first week of January. While I realize no one's got the magic crystal ball on this, is it worth waiting to see if airfares go down? Right now, the ones I've looked at seem high, and I'm not seeing too many sales for what would normally be a slow season. Thank you for any advice you have on this, and your chats are wonderful!
Andrea Sachs: If you are traveling after the holidays, you can give yourself some time, because fares often drop after the festivities. However, if you are traveling during the holiday season and see a fair price now, grab it. However, don't wait much beyond 30 days out.
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Capitol Hill: My husband and I are heading to Paris at the end of October, and I wondered how we should dress, as we will clearly be tourists but I don't want to look like tourists by wearing sneakers out. Also, do you have any favorite places we shouldn't miss? If it matters, we are staying near the Louvre. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide.
washingtonpost.com: You are already avoiding one danger by not traveling in summer -- Parisians don't wear shorts! Dark colors will help you blend in -- black, navy, gray. Also, speak softly on the Metro, and when asking for directions approach someone with "Excuse me, sorry to bother you, can you help me?" The French hate being approached abruptly but with a polite little intro like that you'll never meet a rude Parisian. - Elizabeth
Christina Talcott: Great suggestions, Elizabeth! Yeah, being polite and unobtrusive will get you far, freeing you up to enjoy the city without the bother of that fabled French rudeness. You can wear sneakers and jeans, as long as they're fashionable, and I'd definitely bring rain gear just in case. My favorite places: Luxembourg Gardens (pull up a chair next to the Medici fountain), both opera houses (get a tour of Garnier), the Picasso Museum and shops in the Marais, Place des Vosges, live jazz and swing dancing at Caveau de la Huchette in the Latin Quarter, strolling the boutiques and cafes of Place St. Sulpice. Meals are the best way to get into the Parisian rhythm: getting a coffee and croissant for breakfast at a Tabac or cafe, picking up cheese, fruit and a baguette at an epicerie for picnic lunches in parks, then splurging on great dinners off the beaten path.
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Boston, MA: Has anyone ever stayed at Wheatleigh in Lenox, Mass.? I can't find any reviews of it anywhere, except that is it uber-expensive!
Christina Talcott: I'm gonna have to throw this one out there. Anyone?
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Silver Spring: I miss a week and you have TWO questions I can help with. That'll teach me!
Dublin Hotel: The Morrison.
Russia tour companies: People we cruised with this spring used DenRus and were very happy.
Christina Talcott: Terrific! Thanks!
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Washington, DC: I realize that this is a week late, but for the writer last week asking about where to stay in Ireland, I would stay in any of the Jury's Inn franchise. It's not a terrible price and they are always clean and a safe place to stay anywhere. If the writer is looking for Dublin, I would suggest going with Jury's Christchurch, just a short walk to everything in city center. I've also stayed in the ones in Cork, Galway and Belfast, each with very good experiences.
Christina Talcott: Thanks for the suggestions!
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Boar's Head Inn -- a report: I asked last week about the (deserved, as it turns out) lack of buzz on Boar's Head Inn, I am here to report back on our weekend in Charlottesville. The hotel was fine, room nice, staff helpful and friendly, but it was kinda stodgy. Lots of older parents visiting UVA offspring, or grandchild/grandparent combos. We're 41 and felt like the youngsters. The rooms (or ours, at least) are in different buildings from the lobby, so the effect was sort of like staying in a motel, but with antiques. If I were to go again, I might stay at the Omni right on the Main Street Mall, where we ended up going all the time to hang or eat. Dining in C'ville was great. Hamiltons and C&O for a couple of nice dinners, Revolution Soup for great rainy day lunches (garlic sandwich, yum! Then off to CVS for mints) and Bluegrass grill for brunch on Sunday.
Christina Talcott: Thanks for the report! Sounds like you did some serious scouting, and I'm so glad you checked back in with us about it.
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NY, NY: Great Mad Men article! For better and worse, NY is in a constant state of change - my block in the Village has changed so much just since 2001 - and it can be tough to find remnants of "old New York". A couple of great resources if you're interested in the social history of the city are the old WPA guide from 1939 (it's been reprinted) and an obscure little website called New York Songlines (it's not updated consistently, but it has fabulous historic detail).
Oh, and BTW - most studio apts. in Greenwich Village rent for closer to $2500/mo these days - and Joan's address is actually a townhouse up for sale right now for the bargain price of $20 million (reduced from $22m)!
Scott Vogel: Thanks so much for your kind words and the tips for further info. Greenwich Village would barely recognize its former self at this point, it seems.
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Philadelphia, PA: For the most underrated destination, I'd have to say St. Louis. Food and hotels are good and significantly less expensive than similarly sized cities elsewhere (I still miss the Mexican food), the zoo is fantastic (and FREE), all of the Budweiser-related tours (the factory and Grant's Farm) are free and good for families... and then there's the always-wacky City Museum (open until midnight on the weekends). Not a bad place to spend a few days...
Scott Vogel: St. Louis gets our first vote! Thanks.
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Bethesda: Could you please recommend a travel agency specialized in Middle East (Egypt and Jordan)??
Christina Talcott: Also from our Way to Go issue: Gate 1 Travel (800-682-3333, www.gate1travel.com), Caravan-Serai Tours (800-451-8097, www.caravan-serai.com) or Travcoa (866-591-0070, www.travcoa.com). Anyone have other suggestions?
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Washington, DC: I have to fly with my mother's ashes. I know to contact the airline about bringing them onboard but not whom to contact in regards to getting through security at the airport, do you know?
Carol Sottili: Go to this Web page for all the details:
www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/specialneeds/editorial_1296.shtm
Basically, if you take the remains as carry-on, you need to make sure that the remains are in a container that the X-ray machine can see through.
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Alaska travel: Maybe I'm wrong but it seems like there are two very different Alaska vacations. One option is see Denali and other areas in the big land mass. A second option is to come down the coast and see the smaller towns/ports. For the second option, would your parents be open to a cruise?
Christina Talcott: Good question!
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US Air to Bermuda: The non-stop out of Reagan has been a seasonal operation for several years. I think USA3000 may fly there out of BWI year-round, though.
Scott Vogel: Thanks for this info. I'm having trouble getting onto their site to verify this, but am throwing it out for you guys' consideration.
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Kingstowne, VA: Last week towards the end someone asked about the Boar's Head Inn in Charlottesville. Time ran out before you got any responses, so I thought I'd follow up this week. I've stayed there many times over the years and on the whole it's a nice place. (Note, I have not stayed at Keswick and so cannot compare.) The service has always been good, and one year when they screwed up my room-service breakfast orders two days in a row they gave us a free night to compensate for it (quite generous!). My only gripe lately has been that I haven't liked the direction the dinner menu in the restaurant has taken. It used to be traditional Virginia fare with local ingredients, but about four years ago they hired a new Executive Chef from Vancouver who (unsurprisingly if you've visited Vancouver) focused on "fusion" cuisine, Oriental-influenced dishes that weren't really in keeping with the "Virginia country inn" theme that the Boar's Head has always attempted to provide. That chef has moved on but the new chef who replaced him implemented a rather avant-garde menu himself that likewise doesn't seem to fit in with what long-time Boar's Head fans came to know and appreciate. I suggest checking out the menu in advance before eating dinner in the Old Mill Room, simply because the last time I found that it was no longer really to my liking (very disappointing, and I let the management know via a comment card).
But aside from that problem, I like to stay there for my college reunions or over Labor Day weekend if UVA has a home game (stay over Saturday night and play 18 holes at Birdwood the next day). The location is excellent. Note that if there is any major even going on at UVA, the place will likely be filled. It books within an hour for graduation weekend one year in advance of the actual event.
Christina Talcott: More comments on Boar's Head.
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Bowie, MD: Underrated place - well, domestically, I actually have to say Philadelphia. From DC, it's ridiculously easy to get to, incredible historical sites and museums to explore, friendly people, easy to get around, and one of the best up-and-coming restaurant scenes in the country. Besides, its BYOB policy at many restaurants allow the customer to enjoy a good glass of wine with their meals and still be able to afford the wine!
Scott Vogel: Like we needed another reason to love Philly, huh? Thanks.
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First time Parisian traveler: Hi, we're leaving for Paris in a few weeks, and I have a couple of questions. How much should I take in cash for 6 days, and should we pay our hotel bills in cash - to avoid credit card fees, currency translation changes, etc? Can I pack envelopes of oatmeal and energy bars in my checked baggage (watching sugars), or will TSA take that? Do we need visas?
Thanks, any Paris suggestions would be welcomed.
Oh, and most underrated destination? The Oregon coast.
Andrea Sachs: I am not a fan of traveling with a wad of cash. Too worried about theft or losing my bills while rifling through my bag for my camera or a pack of gum.
If you want to avoid credit card surcharges and ATM fees, get traveler's cheques. You can take as many as you wish, since they will not be wasted (you can use the leftover money at home or cash them in). My suggestion, though, would be to use the ATM (and swallow the extra charges; check with your bank for fees) once or twice during your visit, taking out enough for three days, then three more days. The amount depends on where you are staying, what you are doing and how many cups of coffee you drink per day. But Paris is expensive!
And as long as your food items are dry, you can bring them onboard.
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Arlington, VA: wow, under-rated destinations is a hard topic. I think most places have something good about them. Personally I really enjoyed a week in southwestern Sweden. I was based in Malmo which is a nice-sized, very walkable city linked by train to Copenhagen and Copenhagen airport. Several interesting little towns are a short train ride away for day trips. I liked Lund with its open air museum of old buildings collected from around the country and reassembled there. And the small Baltic coastal town of Ystad with its population that seemed more Polish than Swedish thanks I assume to the ferry links across the sea between the two.
I also enjoyed several days in Luxembourg a few years ago.
I think Europe is full to the brim with these little places that never get written up in the glossy travel mags or newspaper travel sections that stick to the same old destinations everyone always goes to.
Southeast Asia is also a great place to visit with very friendly people and a completely different culture. Is it possible for Cambodia or Angkor to be considered "under-rated"?
Scott Vogel: I've always been intrigued by Malmo. Thanks.
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New York, NY: Where am I going? In exactly one month I will be flying off to Asia - Vietnam, Cambodia & Thailand for 2.5 weeks!
Scott Vogel: Bon Voyage! Bring us back a great underrated place.
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Rockville, MD: UNDERRATED places... I would say Aguas Calientes in Peru, which is the closest town to the famous Macchu Pichu, but nobody talks about this charming town, full of great food and those unique little brick streets. Also Cuba, which for obvious reasons is underrated but is a real jewel in the Caribbean.
Scott Vogel: I like these. Am so intrigued by Cuba myself.
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USA3000: USA3000 eliminated the Bermuda service from BWI. That leaves US Air as the only non-stop service from the DC area, but as already noted, it's seasonal only.
Scott Vogel: There you go.
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DC: Are European airlines suffering as much as the American ones? If not, why do you think that is? I for one find our hub system infuriating--an example being that a couple of months ago the cheapest ticket I could find to fly me from DC to Charleston took me through Dallas. DALLAS. If gasoline prices really are the cost problem the airlines say they are, why is that a rational route to give me at a cheap cost?
Carol Sottili: Some European airlines are thriving, and others aren't. Alitalia, for example, nearly stopped flying last week (news is better this week, as labor unions have signed on to a rescue plan). There are so many factors involved: individual government rules, airline routes, jet fuel price agreements, etc. As for routing, whenever you fly into a smaller city, such as Charleston, there is a good chance you'll take the long way. I always look for routing before buying my ticket, but if I want/need to use a specific airline, I often do have to go through a city that doesn't make sense.
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McLean: What is the best bus company to take up to NYC? And how often do they run?
The most under-rated place I've visited is Cuzco, Peru. Inexpensive, great food, good night life, tons of cultural sites, and most importantly, friendly travelers who believe "the more the merrier." I backpacked by myself throughout South America when I was 20, and I ended up pushing back my return ticket to spend an extra week in Cuzco. I joined other backpackers from Ireland, New Zealand, Syria, and Pittsburgh for a pack trip up to the jungles and rainforests.
I also won $500 at nickel slots in Lima, allowing me to stay even longer!
Christina Talcott: I'm a fan of Vamoose, which leaves from Arlington and Bethesda, and I've heard great things recently about Bolt Bus - seems it's worked out most of its earlier kinks. You can see Vamoose's schedule at ivymedia.com, Bolt's at boltbus.com.
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Pittsburgh: Underrated tourist destination: Pittsburgh (yes, I realize this sounds self-serving).
When we came here for the first time (for a job interview) I was skeptical, thinking of the old "Smoky City" stereotype from decades past. What a pleasant surprise, though, first as a visitor, now as a resident. For just a tiny preview: be sure to catch a few of our spectacular vistas on tonight's Monday Night Football!!!
Scott Vogel: Wow, a recommendation complete with a television tie-in. I gotta say, I'm a huge Pittsburgh fan myself.
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Petworth: So I'm trying to find a good fare to New Orleans, preferably a non-stop flight. This used to be easy.
This time, everything stops and everything is expensive. Ack!
So I'm trying to find out who offers non-stops WAS to MSY, hoping to work from there. Where can I find this information?
Andrea Sachs: From my research, it looks like US Airways flies from National nonstop, United from Dulles and Southwest from BWI. (You can find this info on the airport Web sites.) SW has some good nonstop fares; I found $163 for October dates.
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Most Underrated Destination: For me it would have to be Inhambane, Mozambique. Getting there is hard (fly to South Africa and take a bus up the coast for a fun, inexpensive option) but the beach is sooo worth it. I was able to enjoy the Indian Ocean (warm as bathwater at night) and snorkel and scuba dive with whale sharks (incredible) and baby dolphins (as cute as they sound). All that and fresh seafood! Get there now before development comes to this pristine part of Africa!
Scott Vogel: Nice.
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Washington, DC: I think because we live in the area I forget how awesome DC can be. For locals, this seriously has to be the most underrated tourist spot in the world. Passing the Monuments daily and routinely being treated to the incredible views of night landings at National we simply forget what an amazing city we live in.
I was at the National Book Festival this weekend. Which in itself is reason to come to DC. But the magnitude of what The Mall is truly struck me. The First Lady signing books, the Capitol where lawmakers were debating critical legislation, the excitement surrounding the Oceans exhibit at Natural History and so much more. All at no cost, easily Metro accessible and truly friendly crowds. And that is just one Saturday.
Truly a place that should be visited by tourists and appreciated by locals.
Scott Vogel: I was at the book festival too and while I couldn't put it as mellifluously as you, I had a similar feeling come over me, rain be damned. My 8-year-old was with me and all I could think of was, wow, what I wouldn't have given to have all this interesting cool stuff to attend when I was a kid growing up in Texas.
And don't even get me started on Clarendon Day.
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Bourbon Trail: Loved the bourbon article--Kentucky's my home state and I always have a bottle of Woodford Reserve in the house. One other thing I love is bourbon chocolates; can't go through the Louisville or Lexington airport without buying a box. But, your article was like a trip home and much like central Kentucky, from the sublime to the ridiculous. Thanks for fun reading.
Scott Vogel: I appreciate that. How did I forget to mention the bourbon balls, though? They're as plentiful as free bourbon at the distilleries, and pack quite the punch.
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Reston, Va.: Most underrated travel destination? I don't know if it's the MOST underrated, but I actually really liked Pittsburgh. The Strip section is very eclectic and artsy, much more so than you'd expect in the midst of all those dead steel towns, without as much pretentiousness as you'd find if you stuck all those little shops in, say, DC. Good food too--you can find fancy stuff and comfort food next door to each other.
Scott Vogel: Pittsburgh pulls ahead...
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Alexandria, VA: I missed last week's chat and wonder if you'd be interested in another border crossing story. My friend CJ owns a murder mystery company and used to work for the Maryland/Ontario (now defunct) Renaissance Festivals. Early one morning after a late night performance she received a call from her boss that she was needed in Toronto NOW. She threw some clothes in the car and headed north. At the border she was stopped for a random, routine vehicle check. She pulled over while the guards politely went through her car. All of the sudden she was surrounded by police and told to get out of her car s l o w l y with her hands up in the air. In her trunk they had found a fireplace poker with blood and hair on it, bloody clothing, and firearms. I'm sure they thought they had caught public enemy number one, but it turns out in her rush to get to Ontario she had forgotten to remove the props from the show the night before. She thought it was hysterical but I'm not sure the border patrol shared her sense of humor.
Christina Talcott: Haha, that's awesome! What a great story!
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Washington, DC: I've been so surprised by the lack of non-stop flights in the DC region to large international cities like Geneva and Vancouver -- any other big cities that I should be aware of for future reference?
Carol Sottili: Dulles offers nonstop service to 34 international cities, from Amsterdam to Zurich. Go to www.mwaa.com for a list. From BWI, go to www.bwiairport.com.
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Expat now repatriated: Most underrated place in the UK: Northumberland. It's full of European and UK tourists, so there is a lot of infrastructure plus it's gorgeous--castle ruins built to repel the Vikings (unsuccessful), bastle ruins built to protect against the Scottish Reivers, North Sea white sand beaches, fresh fish and Craster Smokies, friendly people.
Scott Vogel: Always looking for a new place to visit in Britain. Thanks.
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Reston, VA: Thanks for the suggestions last week for Seattle! My question: given an extra couple of days in Washington, which would you (or the peanut gallery) pick: Olympic National Park or Mt. Rainier?
Scott Vogel: I'm not gonna take sides on this one. Any takers?
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Reston, VA: I'll be staying three nights in Rome in mid-February (Wed-Thu-Fri). I am finding a lot of small B-and-B/hostel type of properties at reasonable rates, but am having trouble separating the nice from the not-so-nice. I just need clean, relatively quiet, and good coffee in the morning (which one would expect is a given in Italy but I have found is not always true). Looking for something near Termini Station to catch a train up to the Dolomite ski slopes on Saturday morning.
Do you have any recommendations or sources for good, reliable reviews?
Thanks.
Carol Sottili: I've not stayed in a B-and-B, hostel in Rome, but I do like this Web site for choices: www.enjoyrome.com. Any chatters have an idea?
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Arlington, VA: I enjoy the "your vacation in lights" feature. I will be spending most of November in SE Asia again this year and am thinking my trip might be a good candidate. Any tips for the types of stuff you guys like to see or don't like to see in those submissions?
Andrea Sachs: We love colorful, interesting, humorous and oddball anecdotes and helpful tips. We love the human element, whether it is your own or what you experienced in a different culture. We like it when you bumble around, but also find illumination. We prefer to avoid the obvious (this should not read like a tour operators brochure) and relish your voice. Also, the photo should include you and a significant image from your destination.
And if you include a cute animal story, we push you to the top of the pile.
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Paris tips: I second the Marais. I absolutely love it there! I also recommend you buy a Plan de Paris par Arrondisement (I think that's what it's called). It's a small (about 4X6) little book with street maps of each neighborhood/arrondisement. Make sure you buy the official one and not one of the knockoffs for tourists. It may seem pricey for a vacation but it can save you countless frustrations in getting lost (and the Marais is a true maze!) There is a really famous falafel place called L'as du Fallafal. It's pretty touristy but "real" Parisians eat there as well. It may seem a strange thing to eat in Paris but it is amazing! I also highly recommend the L'Orangerie museum. It is small and manageable and just breathtaking. It is newer so you may not have seen it before. It was a real highlight for me. It houses the water lily paintings--the way Monet designed them to be shown. Also, Laduree gets lots of hype but I absolutely recommend you go and get a macaroon (not the coconut kind--the French kind are different). They are the best anywhere and worth the crazy price. (P.S How about posting my Italy ?) Enjoy!!
washingtonpost.com: Another tip - the weekly magazine Pariscope has an English-language section that will clue you in to exhibits, concerts, new restaurants and more. It's cheap and available at all newsstands, etc. - Elizabeth
Christina Talcott: Great suggestions! A good map of Paris is worth every penny, and the best thing about the Plan de Paris book is that many "real" Parisians carry it, too.
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Alexandria, VA: Best underrated tourist destination? Providence, RI. The city is fascinating--they rerouted a river to foster urban renewal; you can ride a gondola downtown. RISD gives an arty edge. The restaurants are unbelievable, Italian and otherwise,the seafood is fresh, and you're just a short jaunt away from the most beautiful beaches in New England, and the fascinating historical Newport, with tiny old buildings near the harbor and those massive mansions. Best of all, it's a short and cheap Southwest flight from BWI.
Scott Vogel: Yes, absolutely -- the Southwest flights are a great deal. By the way, I highly recommend the Renaissance Providence hotel. Beautifully renovated old structure, and great deals on Hotwire (at least a few months ago).
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Allentown PA: Well, I'm going to be selfish and not actually state my own, personal under-rated vacation spot - it involves open air, wide spaces, quiet, and very few tourists, so I kind of want to keep it a secret...
But I would guess that for many people, our own hometowns are under-rated vacation places. How many of us have checked in with our local historical societies to see about visiting old homes or buildings or learning what's happened, and then gone off to find those places? Every once in a (great) while when I've visited my parents I've checked out a local museum and been surprised by all I don't know and find fascinating, and then spend a day wending among old houses and area legends.
Scott Vogel: Yes, and with the Dow diving, we might all be forced to revisit such places.
But come on, Allentown -- out with it!
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(Kensington) Waikiki is underrated!: Last week it was in the OVERRATED category but I love it. Free entertainment daily, like the Kodak Hula show and giant cinema screen ON THE BEACH. The best mangoes and local produce you can imagine at little farmer markets all over the place. You can walk for miles on the beach, and veer off at any time to shop one block away on Kuhio street. The zoo is fantastic, and you don't even after to enter: just walk on the opposite side from the entrance and talk to the giraffes looking down at you over the fence. Even the standard coffee at McDonald's is Kona!
Scott Vogel: From the Dept of Ambivalence...
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underrated venice: Although Venice itself can never be underrated, most people don't take the time to visit the out islands, except for maybe a glass factory tour on Murano. We had the best time visiting Burano (the lace and fishing island) and, believe it or not, Lido. Lido is almost the opposite of Venice, with wide avenues, cars, trees and grass, as well as pretty decent beaches. While I wouldn't spend all of my time there, it made a really nice break from the insanity of Saint Mark's Square.
Scott Vogel: Another overrated destination converted by a savvy traveler into its opposite.
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Underrated destination: Actually, I'm not sure if this one is rated at all, but I'd say Tasmania, Australia. Beautiful scenery, friendly people, great food, minimal traffic... it's such a refreshing place to go after living and working and commuting in the DC area. Of course, if everyone starts going there, then it will quickly become overcrowded and overrated...
Scott Vogel: Don't worry, we won't tell a soul.
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Re Paris: To the Paris-bound traveler: Wear your sneakers! You'll be doing a LOT of walking. You must see the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame cathedral if you've never been to Paris before. And Hotel d'Invalides is the museum with Napoleon's tomb inside. I actually liked that museum better than the Louvre.
Christina Talcott: Wow, Invalides over the Louvre? Mon Dieu! It's IS a pretty spectacular place, I guess... I would also recommend Musee d'Orsay for first-time visitors. No first trip to Paris is complete without a photo of that clock!
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Underrated: I think Visby, Sweden, is underrated. Quiet walled town on the island of Gotland in the Baltic Sea. Cruise ships have visited from time to time (that's how I learned about it), but several lines have dropped Visby since tenders are required. That's a shame for the people who won't get to visit. Beautiful flowers in town, spectacular public gardens. The church is some 400 or 500 years old and still in use. The local beer (Wisby) was good and came in half-litre bottles. Then once you left town out into the countryside it felt like you were a million miles from anywhere--very relaxing place to be.
Of course, someone who likes nightlife and such would be bored silly.
Scott Vogel: Here's a place you don't hear about every day.
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French Cruising: My family is planning to rent a boat/barge to cruise a French river and/or canal next year and are seeking recommendations for a reputable outfitter. Thanks clicksters!
Carol Sottili: Try these companies:
www.leboat.co.uk
www.house-boat.net
www.locaboat.com
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St Louis ????: That must be the beer talking
Scott Vogel: A, um, dissenting view.
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Mt. Rainier or the Olympic Peninsula?: As a frequent visitor to the area, I say Mt. St. Helens is the best place to visit. A mountain is a mountain, but a mountain with its top blown off... extraordinary. Go on a clear day and see the movie in the visitor center. It will blow you away! (figuratively!)
Scott Vogel: (Thanks for that qualification!)
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Yellowstone planner from last week: They were looking for a two week trip.
I am assuming you are not the type who will do the long backpacking hikes.
You can do Yellowstone and Grand Teton in the period of a week. The second week you have options...
What I wouldn't do is to go to Mt Rushmore because it's just so out of the way.
For the second week you could do:
1. If you still want to use Denver as your base. Drive down through Utah to Moab for about 5 days and then do a return trip through central colorado by going through Durango, Telluride, and through Dunnison to the ski towns. Along this route you could do a rather easy white water rafting trip for a day on the Arkansas river in Buena Vista, Co.
2. Other option would be instead of flying to Denver, fly into Great falls, Bozeman, or Helena, or Idaho Falls (whichever is cheaper) and travel up to Glacier national park and go to Great Falls to the Lewis and Clark museum and follow part of the Lewis and Clark trail through central Montana.
Carol Sottili: I think that's too much driving for two weeks, but that's me. Others may want to see as much as possible.
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Richmond Va. - Thanksgiving Getaway: Please help, Flight Crew. My husband and I (late 20s, no kids) have gotten the green light from family members to skip the Thanksgiving festivities and take a vacation during that long weekend. We both work long hours and have not taken a vacation or time off since mid-2007.
Can you suggest any vacation destinations for a long Thanksgiving weekend? Would love: (1) a place within driving or short train trip from Richmond; (2) not too cold, and (3) some history/culture/city (i.e., not rural)? (Other than D.C., of course!) Thank you!
Christina Talcott: Have you been to Philadelphia, Baltimore or Williamsburg, all within driving or train distance from Richmond? While Philly and Williamsburg have their obvious but still stunning historical features, Baltimore's got history in spades, too, plus fabulous museums and food. While Williamsburg isn't much of a city, Jamestown's nearby and worth a trip. Other suggestions?
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One more Dublin Hotel: The Georgian Hotel, 18-22 Lower Baggott Street. First, you gotta love the address. It's a warren of rooms spread across three Georgian town houses, a quick walk to everywhere, the staff were helpful, and the traditional Irish breakfasts were great. And it's not that expensive, considering.
Christina Talcott: Terrific! Thanks!
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Finger Lakes B and B suggestion: Last week someone asked for a B andB suggestion for the Finger Lakes area of NY. We stayed at 10 Fitch in Auburn, NY last fall and had a great time. Our stay included an in-room massage and a 6-hour winery tour with a picnic packed for us. The website is www.10fitch.com. It was pricey, but worth it for a special occasion.
Christina Talcott: Thanks for the suggestion! Sounds lovely, especially this time of year.
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Washington, DC: The Bolt bus is great. I just took it and got off at the 6th and Canal location. It's clean and a cost efficient way to get to NYC. Friday afternoons can be busy so book early.
Christina Talcott: Glad to hear it worked out for you.
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20001: Underrated: Rio. With help from the Flight Crew I chose Rio as our honeymoon destination last year. A lot of people asked me why or said I was crazy.
It ended up being unbelievable. Between the beaches, a never ending list of things to do since it is a huge city, the mountains, rain forests, affordable prices, culture, caipirinhas, samba clubs, and being full of Brazilians who were very friendly, I couldn't imagine a better destination. Thank you very much or helping me go with it.
Scott Vogel: Yeah, and for some reason Rio gets a bad rap (crime incidents, no doubt). But it's an incredible, one-of-a-kind place...
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Arlington, VA: Why would you want a movie screen blocking your view when you're on the beach? You can watch movies at home...
Scott Vogel: re: waikiki.
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Underrated - Tallinn Estonia: The old city of Tallinn is amazing - medieval buildings, lovely atmosphere for walking, and medieval restaurants. The people were not unfriendly and the dollar does go a bit farther. Bonus ferry to Helsinki takes about 1.5 hours.
Scott Vogel: Thanks, I'm really curious about that place myself.
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Washington, D.C.: I think Los Angeles is underrated, in the sense that everyone seems to have such pre-defined ideas of what they will find there (movie stars, traffic, gangs).
I love the pueblo downtown, hiking in the hills, Mexican food in East LA, the beaches in Malibu...
I think it's a beautiful city. I'm always surprised how negatively people seem to react to it.
Scott Vogel: Another place that gets a bad rap.
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Florida: Crew - Besides carrying separate paper copies of my passport, I've come up with an additional step to pass along. I color scanned my passport data/photo page into my computer, and then attached the image to an email that I sent myself. It permanently resides in my Yahoo inbox, where I can access the image from anywhere in the world should the need arise. Hopefully, the need will not arise.
Carol Sottili: Great idea.
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Seattle: You could do both Parks. Rainier is a day trip park. Olympic is larger and you need more days to see the different parts of the park.
It also depends on the season and the years snow fall.
Much of Rainier is open only through Memorial-Labor Day. heavy winter snowfall delays what you can see just like an early winter snowfall can close roads.
Olympic can be accessed all year round so it would be the safe bet if you want to plan ahead. Also from Olympic Peninsula out of Port Angeles you can take a day trip up to Victoria.
Scott Vogel: Good points here regarding the time of year you visit.
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Washington, DC: Are there any decent restaurants outside the security checkpoints at Dulles? I want to have dinner with my husband before he leaves for a long trip.
Andrea Sachs: Most of the restaurants are post-security, and aren't five-star affairs. You might want to send off your husband with beer and a burger at Harry's Tap Room in the Main Terminal. Or there is always Starbucks coffee and a Cinnabon.
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Washington, DC: The most underrated destination is not any one city or any particular sight. You can actually find this place in every city you've ever visited, no matter the size. Want to know where it is? It's that special place that exists outside of guidebooks, away from the museums and other popular destinations. It's that place you find when you walk down a small side street off the main boulevard, not knowing what's down there or what might be on the other end. It's the place you find when, instead of pounding the pavement from sun up til sun down, trying to hit every tourist spot so as not to miss anything, you sit at an outdoor cafe for hours just watching the world go by. It's the place you find when you abandon an itinerary, not knowing where the day will take you. Everyone should go there sometime. It's nice.
Scott Vogel: Yes, and by your logic, we've already been there. Thanks.
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Raleigh NC: Underrated destination? Omaha Nebraska. Yeah, flyover country. Y'all should stop sometime! College World Series, one of the top zoos not just in the US but in the world, largest geodesic glazed dome on the planet, great underground music scene (Saddle Creek Records, home of Bright Eyes/Conor Oberst), botanical gardens, and wildly diverse ethnic communities, so during a stay, you can eat authentic Mexican, Salvadoran, Persian, German, Czech, Greek, and Italian. It really is a wonderful city.
Scott Vogel: This isn't the first time I've heard this about Omaha. This bears looking into...
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Richmond, VA: Ha. Somebody beat me to Waikiki . . . I have heard a lot of the sneering - overcrowded, noisy, etc - but I will never forget my first visit. I'd had previous vacations on Kauai and Maui, but all I'd seen of Honolulu was the airport. So on one Kauai trip, I decided to take a quick flight to Oahu and stay in Waikiki overnight. After dropping my bag in my room I went downstairs and across the street and there I was, on "world famous Waikiki Beach"! Visions of the Brady Bunch and Magnum PI and Elvis rushed to my head. Diamond Head to the left, the pink palace that is the Royal Hawaiian Hotel to the right, the statue of Duke Kahanamoku covered in leis . . . I've been back several times since then and I still think it's a magical place.
Scott Vogel: And the mai tais at the Royal Hawaiian: not to be missed.
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Alexandria, VA: So.....I am about to be out of work for a bit due to layoffs. But I've saved up a lot of money and financially I'm not bent out of shape, so I'm thinking October might not be a bad time to go somewhere if I don't get extravagant (meaning I can use miles or I can drive). Any suggestions for someone in that situation who just wants to clear his head of DC for a few days? I thought about the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail in Alabama since the greens fees are comparatively low, but that's a long way to go. Pinehurst is probably too pricey and New York is good for a day trip at most (the place gets on my nerves if I stay much longer). The other place that is crossing my mind is Toronto, as I have not been there since 1986. Is Toronto viable as a destination for someone who wants to cheap out a bit?
Christina Talcott: Sorry about the layoffs! You sound remarkably healthy about it. As for Toronto, I was there last weekend and loved it. While there are some bargains, I dropped a fair amount on food and hotel while I was there (we stayed in the same place as New Kids on the Block - total coincidence, but still exciting!). That said, the ethnic dining was terrific, the vibe was definitely cool and it was very walkable, plus the public transport is pretty extensive. Fly into Buffalo and take the Megabus or Coach Canada to Toronto, about 2 hours and a lot cheaper than flying into Toronto itself. Just watch out for a loooonnnng border crossing back into the States!
A few budget lodging suggestions from Cindy Loose's January story on Toronto:
The Delta Chelsea (33 Gerrard St., 800-243-5732, http://www.deltachelsea.com) is a basic full-service hotel with pools and programs for kids. It's in a convenient location, and the price is right, starting at about $130.
Those on a budget will find clean rooms and a central location at Hotel Victoria (56 Yonge St., 800-363-8228, http://www.hotelvictoria-toronto.com), where double rooms in winter begin at about $110 a night. The really tight budget choice: Global Village Backpackers (460 King St. W., 416-703-8540, http://www.globalbackpackers.com). Private rooms start at about $73 a night, shared rooms at $26.
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Underated Destination: My vote would be for Naples, Italy. Sure it's a little dirtier and rougher than the rest of Italy, but it's far more authentic and the shopping is better than Rome if you know where to look. Also, the food is some of the best on the planet (when I worked as a flight attendant based in Naples, I used to bring home whole pizzas to my family) and there are plenty of lovely sight-seeing things to do (other than Pompeii!). There are lots of churches, a beautiful waterside public park, several amazing museums and close proximity to the volcano Solfatara and Roman ruins in Pouzzouli (including the third largest surviving Roman amphitheater which is almost always deserted).
Scott Vogel: Interesting, and I agree that dirty and rough should not disqualify a place!
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re Alaska: Just came back, and can recommend Alaska Wildland Adventures. And if your parents have enough time they can do both Denali and the coast (taking a cruise, for example, that stays within Alaska).
Christina Talcott: Great, thanks!
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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Dear Crew, In an effort to distract myself from the Dow plummeting 600 points, I figured I'd check in with you about Fort Lauderdale in October. I want a nearby beach weekend, and the weather at FLL seems ideal, save any hurricane activity. Any other warm beach locales? Thought Puerto Rico and USVI, but a bit too pricey.
Thanks.
P.S. I wrote in maybe 6 weeks ago about hitting Berkeley Springs State Park on the way back to DC from Pittsburgh, and really enjoyed it! Thanks to the tech for her comments on it. I will go back! Oh, Pittsburgh was also lots of fun!
washingtonpost.com: Berkeley Springs, it's underrated!! - Elizabeth
Andrea Sachs: Other beachy ideas: Outer Banks or beaches around Wilmington, N.C. (though a little chillier than Florida); Key West; weekend cruise from Miami (stops include Nassau and private island); beaches and islands near Charleston, S.C.; St. Petersburg, Fla.
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St Helens: If you just want to see the movie of St Helens you can see it at the Pacific Science Center at one of its IMAX theaters. It is a regular summer showing.
The part to see in St Helens is the blast zone. But because of heavy winter snowfall, trying to acces that area was impossible this year because the road was closed due to snow damage.
For planning purposes its too risky. Sure you can drive down and go to the observation deck to see the mountain and take a really long hike to get to the mountain (if they allow you).
I would still say if you had to choose--go with Olympic.
Scott Vogel: More info for you.
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South Riding, VA: I am going on my first international trip ever next week. As far as I know, I should be able to bring two suitcases, but if I can manage to get everything into one, is there a reason why I may want to split it into two? Or, if I am close to being able to bringing only one suitcase, should I cut back on something to have only one. My trip is a two week cruise in Europe.
Andrea Sachs: I would pack everything in one bag and stick a foldable or soft bag in your luggage, so you have room to grow.
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More Omaha: I'll second the earlier post-- Omaha has a lot to offer. The Old Market is a hip area with some good restaurants, clubs, and shops. And there's a great railroad museum, as well as some good art museums.
Scott Vogel: Mutual feelings on Omaha.
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Alexandria, VA: I nominate the southwest coast of Scotland as an underrated place. The drive south along the coast from Glasgow is beautiful, it's very friendly and laid back, and Portpatrick is about as quaint a little seaside villiage as you'll find. It's also easy to take a day trip by ferry to Ireland if you like. And for people that like Pittsburgh, I'd nominate Glasgow for the same reasons - an unpretentious old blue-collar working class city with a vibrant arts scene, and gorgeous architecture and views of the city.
Scott Vogel: You can't really go wrong anywhere in Scotland, for my money.
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Paris Tips: Only wear running shoe style sneakers if you want to stick out as a tourist from a mile away. I live in NYC and can tell tourists from a mile away from the running shoes - opt for an alternative such as black pumas ("city sneakers" as my sister calls them) or black ballet flats (crocs makes a pair that are comfortable, light weight and not ugly).
Christina Talcott: Good tip! A comfy but stylish pair of boots would also work great in Paris in October, good for day and night.
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Olympic NP vs. Mt Rainier: Both are spectacular, but if you can only go to one I would pick Olympic National Park. Along with the towering peaks and rugged backcountry, it also has the only rainforest in the continental U.S. It was the site of my favorite (and longest - 18 miles) dayhike: we began in the rainforest, travel across snowcapped peaks, through plains of wildflowers, and back through the rainforest. And then we soaked our sore muscles in the natural hotsprings.
Mt. Rainier is more visually striking: It's just a single hulking mountain in the middle of an otherwise completely flat plain, but you don't get nearly as a varied a terrain as in Olympic NP.
Scott Vogel: More good advice on this topic.
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Paris: Get a pair of fashion sneakers--do not wear running sneakers. You will stand out. You can get plenty of sneakers with good support that are not meant for the gym these days! Try Clarks, Ecco, Merrill, even something like a Puma with a good insert (I like super feet)
Italy...
Christina Talcott: More footwear suggestions for the Paris-bound.
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I'll second Omaha: Thanks for bringing up Omaha! Haven't been in years, but one of these days I'm gonna make it back for the College World Series again -- one of the coolest events in the country.
Scott Vogel: Okay, this is getting interesting.
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Alexandria, VA: Underrated vacation destination: Virginia in general, and the Southwest region in particular. I remember stopping in Blacksburg for a night on my way to Knoxville and being blown away by how gorgeous the area was.
Scott Vogel: No place like home indeed.
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Arlington, VA: We have booked a vacation package (hotel and flight) to San Juan, Puerto Rico for late October. Any tips for first time travelers? Thank you.
washingtonpost.com: Puerto Rico Punch (Post Travel Section, Feb. 26, 2006)
Andrea Sachs: Don't just stick to the city. Though Old San Juan is great, and worth repeat visits, save time to explore beyond the city limits--to El Yunque rainforest, the beaches on the west coast (Isabela is beautiful), the coffee plantations and mountains in the central region and the bioluminescent bays.
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San Juan PR: Hubby and I are going to San Juan PR for a long weekend. We arrive Friday evening and leave Monday morning. With only two full days, should we bother to leave the city? Is a trip to the rainforest a whole day experience?
Thanks in advance!
washingtonpost.com: Puerto Rico Punch (Post Travel Section, Feb. 26, 2006)
Andrea Sachs: Yes, El Yunque is definitely worth a visit, even on a short trip.
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Allentown again: To be completely honest, I don't actually know its name. It's up in the Fort William/Glen Nevis/Glencoe area of Scotland (that area's a tourist destination). There are walking trails all over the hills, but the popular ones are up/down Ben Nevis and out around the site of the massacre of the Macdonalds. But after doing those I continued to walk around the area and found a gorgeous, little-used track that wandered along away from the town and the mountains and valleys but rose up just enough for a perfect sunset over the loch. I returned each evening I was there and every single sunset was gorgeous, even in the pouring rain.
Scott Vogel: Aha, you coughed it up! -- it's gonna be hard not to give the prize to Allentown, folks.
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Two or One?: Are they talking about checking one or two bags? They should know to pack some vitals in a carry-on--and have a plan in case they make it and their clothes do not--and the cruise is leaving...
Andrea Sachs: I assumed they meants two checked bags.
Take II: Bring one carry-on and check one bag that includes another bag.
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Columbia, MD: Ok, it's going to happen--I'm going to turn 40 in November. I want to go somewhere where I don't have to hear "Hey, Mom?" or "Ms. L" for 48 hours. Not fancy, 2-4 hours driving, not depressing like a hotel room, maybe a nice B and B where I can write and read, partake in the local eateries and even get in a scenic stroll?
The current contenders: Berkeley Springs, Chincoteague, Yogaville (not really, I think).
Thanks!
washingtonpost.com: I vote Berkeley Springs! - Elizabeth
Carol Sottili: I like Cape Charles, Va., and will send link to story. Or how about Easton (www.eastonmd.org) or St. Michaels (www.tourtalbot.org)?
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washingtonpost.com: Paddle Fatigue on Va.'s Eastern Shore (Washington Post, June 18)
Carol Sottili: Here is link to story re: Cape Charles.
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Carbon offsets?: I just read a posting on the TierneyLab blog on the NY Times about eco-hypocrites thinking that recycling offsets their flying. I DON'T want to be an eco-hypocrite and I am flying to Japan later this week for a vacation. How can I buy carbon offsets? And how can I determine how much to buy? Thanks. This is really important to me.
washingtonpost.com: Jet-Setting Greens (TierneyLab, nytimes.com)
Christina Talcott: We'll try to link to Cindy Loose's story about carbon offsets that ran in June 2007. Conservation Fund, Carbonfund.org and Terrapass.com are three she mentioned.
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Most Underrated: The most underrated destination is the city closest to where you grew up as a child/teenager... for most (or at least for me, growing up in NoVA, near D.C.), I took the city for granted, rarely went in aside from a random class trip, and was too young to venture out alone at any rate. Now, as an adult, I return to D.C., and it has a perfect mix of novelty and familiarity: I know enough to know what I want to see, but because I left for college without really experiencing it, I can enjoy it as a tourist. Best of both worlds!
Scott Vogel: publishing these fast before we run out of time...
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washingtonpost.com: Guilty About Flying? Just Click. (Post Travel Section, June 10, 2007)
Christina Talcott: Here's that story on carbon offsets...
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Mom+Dad+ Alaska: If Mom and Dad are over 55 and eschew fancy cruises, you might look into an Elderhostel gift certificate. Lots o' Alaska choices, from small ships to escorted groups on regular cruise ships. The travel companions: same age group, usually very curious and highly intelligent, and a good focus on learning.
Christina Talcott: Great suggestion!
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Oviedo, Fla. : Take the Alaska railroad to Denali - sit in glass-top cars. cheaper and easier than driving and you see more than in a plane. take the state ferry from wash state = dirt cheap if you camp on deck and just cheap if you use a a small cabin. you see the same sights (and hear naturalist talks) as the cruise ship people, and you won't gain weight. the AK cruises are a ripoff, too big for some channels and the ferry is the way to go. cafeteria food or bring a cool as we did. do not miss Simon & Seaforts for a dinner in Anchorage. worth the $$ - sit at the window and eat the best salmon you will ever have while watching Beluga whales (they are lite yellow, not pure white.)
Scott Vogel: and another.
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Midwest: A great underrated tourist destination is Quebec City. Great architecture, cool culture, beuatiful city, very walkable and tourist friendly place. Has a great European look/feeling but still has the more North American friendly culture. Plus the city is much cheaper and not nearly as crowded as Montreal or Toronto (both also awesome tourist destinations).
Scott Vogel: and another.
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Washington, D.C.: I am driving up to Boston next week. Probably leaving earlyish on Friday. Is the best bet to take I-95 all the way, or should I be looking for workarounds now?
Andrea Sachs: I am a believer in taking the straightforward route. I get lost on detours. I would take 95, but you can also check with AAA on alternate routes and current traffic/construction conditions.
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Vero Beach, Fla.: I thought Taipei was terribly underrated, but it looks as though the city's great food is no longer a secret. I predict a tourist boom.
The Alaska vacation question made me wonder whether Americans know that coastal British Columbia exists. Could BC be not underrated, but simply ignored?
Christina Talcott: Haha, good question about BC.
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Alexandria: I'll second Ecco shoes - I have a pair of black dress shoes that are as comfortable as any running shoes I own.
Christina Talcott: More shoes! Love it!
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13th Street: Most Underrated: Maybe it is because I grew up near Saratoga Springs NY, but European "spa towns" are underrated. Two that come to mind: Luso in Portugal (north of Cascais) and Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic (a day trip from Prague but we spent a week and loved it).
Christina Talcott: I've heard great things about Karlovy Vary. Thanks!
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Scott Vogel: Okay, folks. That's it for this week. Time to return to the real world and its fiscal mess. Allentown, you have indeed won the prize in this week's underrated contest. We're very partial to travelers who divulge their secrets anyway, and Scotland is full of nooks and crannies still waiting to be discovered. Please e-mail me at vogelsi@washpost.com, and we'll see the rest of you next week!
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Chantilly, VA: The only reason to pack in two suitcases (uh, other than having too much stuff for one) is if your suitcases are the type that are heavy when they're empty. In my experience, airlines are quicker than ever to charge you for overweight baggage. If you're worried, leave some stuff behind (preferred!), find a lighter bag, or pack in two smaller cases. Trust me, trying to repack a suitcase AT the check-in desk in an effort to get it under the weight limit will not endear you to anyone!
Andrea Sachs: Good tip! Thanks, Chantilly.
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