The Food Section
of the Washington Post
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
1:00 PM
A chat with the Washington Post Food Section staff is a forum for discussion of all things culinary: food trends, recipes, ingredients, menus, gadgets and more. You can share your thoughts on the latest Food section, get suggestions from fellow cooks and food lovers, or swap old-fashioned recipes the new-fashioned way. The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.
A transcript follows.
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Joe Yonan: Welcome to Free Range, everyone. Feel like a pot of tea or a baked sweet potato, or putting together some rolls, cookies or scones? Or is your mind on some big holiday I've heard is approaching?
We're here to help, so shoot your questions our way.
Joe Yonan: How could I forget? We'll have some giveaway books, but their identity will remain a secret until the end.
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Lothian, MD: Thanks so much for the tea article today. When the weather begins to chill, I pull out the tea pot and loose tea. Thanks too to Joe -- I also have an "Orange Crush" in that sweet potatoes are often my weeknight dinners if nothing else has been planned. Occasionally I like to do the butter/cinnamon routine and it tastes just like dessert!
Joe Yonan: Glad we were of such service today!
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Sweet potatoes for one ... : As a solo cook most days, I love the "cooking for one" column, and was so excited to see the column on sweet potatoes, as I re-discovered their ease and utter tastiness just last night --
My trick is to cut a single potato in smallish pieces and roast in my toaster oven, quick, energy efficient, and perfect for one. I then added it to sauteed shallots, an apple, a bit of cider and some chickpeas and the dinner was just right, but I defintely was thinking I need some inspiration, so the column was great!
My question -- I don't always have coconut milk on hand, nor do I want to open a whole can when it is just me -- Can regular milk be subbed in the recipe provided and in other recipes that call for it?
Thanks!
Joe Yonan: Thanks -- glad you liked it. I've been surprised by the reaction, all positive...
As for coconut milk, you're certainly not going to get the same result in this Curried Shrimp recipe, as Thai chili paste and coconut milk were meant for each other. But you could certainly try regular milk; the sauce will still be spicy, but won't have that intriguing coconutty sweetness that I think makes the dish, frankly.
Now, some people freeze their coconut milk, but manufacturers such as Thai Kitchen advise against it because it makes it separate and hard to get to reemulsify, making whatever you use it in lumpy. (Although they also say that if you defrost it overnight in the fridge and then slowly rewarm and then blend with a blender it can be brought close to the original state, but that seems like a lot of work!)
Your best bet might be to just have another plan for that coconut milk if you're going to make this -- how about
Chicken Coconut Soup? This recipe calls for a full can, but you could certainly do it with 1-can-minus-3-tablespoons and invite a few friends over -- or have leftovers for a couple more meals.
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Bethesda, MD: Hi, For the holidays I was thinking of doing gift baskets with homemade treats. I did this a couple of years ago with some homemade brittle and truffles, but I was wondering if you had any interesting suggestions (I'd like them to be somewhat unique) and also how far ahead I could reasonably start. I'd rather not repeat the all-nighter cooking marathon that I did last time.
Thanks a bunch!
Bonnie Benwick: We checked with cookbook author Nancy Baggett, an ace at food gifts.(Remember to check out her homemade soup and bread kit ideas in the Dec. 3 Food section.) She says brittles, hard candies, caramels and most cookies all freeze well.
For make-ahead truffles, she says there might be a need to let the cream come to a full boil (to make it as sterile as possible), in case you had started with dairy that already had been opened and was kept in the fridge. The truffles can be kept cold in the fridge or freezer, and then dipped later.
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U Street: Hi Rangers, just wanted to thank you all, again, for the cooking for one column. It's always good, but today's recipes look fantastic! I am so excited to try them this week. Thank you thank you thank you for thinking of us solo cooks.
Joe Yonan: You're welcome!
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Virginia: Perhaps not the right forum, but I need suggestions on kid-friendly food. I am just about at the end of my rope with my kindergartner (our oldest child). She would live on chicken nuggets, ketchup, plain pasta, and bread if we let her.
She used to eat everything, but now basically she won't touch any meat other than chicken nuggets, no fish other than fish sticks, no eggs, no cheese or anything with cheese on it, and won't even drink plain milk anymore. On the plus side, she loves fruit and eats many veggies.
Does anyone remember "Bread and Jam for Frances"? The parents basically gave in to her demand for bread and jam, and nothing else, and soon she was eating with the family again. Will that really do the trick?
Anyway, I guess I'd like to hear from those of you who cook for young kids, what works for you, and will she actually survive this phase without becoming malnourished. It's becoming a huge point of stress in our house. Thank you.
Bonnie Benwick: Yes, Virginia, we're happy to throw this out there for your fellow chatters. But honestly, I think that chicken nuggets and fish sticks(which could be made fresh by you and what would be wrong with them?), ketchup, plain pasta, fruits and vegetables seems like a fairly balanced diet for a 5-year-old.
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Oolong infusions: Hi Jane,
Loved the article about tea - I absolutely would have chosen the monkey-picked oolong for the name alone! I am a bit confused about the multiple infusions... after the first go, with the quick steeping of leaves, are the repeated infusions used with the same leaves as the 1st round? And other flavors and colors will reveal themselves with each additional infusion? How long can you do that before the tea leaves are rendered tasteless?
One more question, if you can address it - how do you store a pound of tea leaves if you plan on using it over a period of a few months? Thank you!
Jane Black: Yep, that's the deal. You pour fresh water over the same leaves and you will elicit new flavors. You'd need a lot of leaves to do one big pot after another. But you could certainly use a tea ball in a small mug and experiment.
As for storage, you want to store it in an airtight container. It should be kept in a dark, cool place, preferably away from other spices, the odors of which might taint the tea. The best solution is a tea caddy, a tin with a tight fitting lid. You can buy them online. A ziplock bag also will do.
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Germantown Cookie Baker: I just ran across a cookie recipe that looked great (ginger molasses spice) but it calls for 1/2 cup vegetable shortening. The idea of shortening is off-putting to me. Should I just get over it? What are the advantages of shortening in baking? Can I substitute butter? (Or if you've got a recipe for a soft and chewy ginger cookie that doesn't use shortening, I'd love to give it a try.)
Thank you.
Bonnie Benwick: Is there a support group for that? Yep, maybe you could learn to use shortening now and then, especially since there are vegan and nontransfat versions. Lisa Yockelson (who wrote today's baking article) may be joining the chat at some point, so I hope she weighs in about what vegetable shortening does for baked goods. The pie crusts I've been testing for Thanksgiving had a mixture of shortening and butter, and they came out flakier than I ever remember. In the meantime, here's a dandy ginger cookie recipe made with butter.
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Cookie clinic!: Hi Rangers! I know last Xmas time you did a cookie clinic which had over 20 recipes... could I have a link to that? Will you have anything similar this year? Loved that article! Also, baking question -- if I'm changing a pound cake recipe from a normal size (the big block) to the much smaller blocks (can't remember sizes sorry), how do I adjust baking time? Thanks so much!
Joe Yonan: Yes, we will -- it's scheduled for Dec. 10, so mark your calendars!
On baking in smaller sizes, the thing to think about is the doneness queue of the original recipe. Are you looking for a toothpick to come out clean, or with a few crumbs, or is the center supposed to be just set? You need to translate that same idea of the feel/texture of the cake to the smaller quantity. It depends greatly on the sizes you're working with, of course, or I'd give you more guidance, but there's a little trial and (hopefully not) error here; you want to check very early, because it may be less than half the total baking time. Just make sure to wait until cake rises the way it's supposed to, and then start checking.
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Chevy Chase, Md.: Any suggestions about where I can find leaf lard in the Washington, D.C. area? It is time to bake those Thanksgiving pies.
Joe Yonan: Others should weigh in here, but I saw frozen leaf lard at Truck Patch, a vendor at the 14th and U Farmers Market on Saturday.
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Full-Grown Oatmeal-Chocolate Chip Cookies: Why are the ingredients in decimals, rather than fractions (as found on cups and spoons)?
Bonnie Benwick: A browser prob, maybe? It's better to view the recipe this way.
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Lothian, MD: Another post -- thanks for referencing the Shan Shui Teas website (which is terrific!) -- this would be buying locally, right?
Jane Black: It's supporting a local business! Just in case you weren't kidding, even the most serious locavores will make exceptions for coffee, tea, chocolate, though they seek out fair trade or organic. If you want to buy American tea, it is possible. In Hawaii, there are several tea makers that are growing and drying oolong teas. You can learn more at Tea Hawaii.
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pumpkin pie: I've looked through your database, but am wondering if you have a pumpkin pie recipe that uses real pumpkin. Would I use equal amounts of real pumpkin as the pumpkin puree from a can?
Joe Yonan: There's this French Pumpkin Pie, a favorite of mine. Very different from the norm, and great. But to your other question -- yes, you'd use the same about of pureed-from-freshly-roasted pumpkin as you would the canned.
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Alexandria, Va: I'm receiving a lot of catalogs which include fruitcakes in their offerings. Have you culinary experts considered doing a taste test of these much-maligned and long-lasting desserts?
Jane Black: Not to my knowledge. But what a good idea for the holidays.
Joe Yonan: All right, Jane, you know what you're signing up for?
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Whipped (Creamed) honey: My mom is crazy about whipped honey. I bring her a tub from Trader Joe's every time I visit her, but it's gone by the end of the weekend. Is there a way to buy a large quantity (1 gallon??)? Do you know who might sell it?
Joe Yonan: The biggest I've seen is a 1-pound tub, about 1 1/3 cups. Of course, you could buy multiples and recycle or reuse those containers somehow. Or ... maybe your Mom needs to diversify her consumption a little!
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pumpkin lover: http://www.ehow.com/how_4502519_cook-fresh- pumpkin-pumpkin-recipes.html
(I originally learned this method from the Washington Post, circa 1980). Even starting with the regular orange pumpkins, this tastes better than the Libby's can.
Joe Yonan: Thanks! That URL is a little off because of an errant space/return, so here's the link.
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Vegetable Skin: I wasn't sure if you could eat the skin of a sweet potato until it was mentioned today, because they are so often peeled. This got me thinking, can you eat the skin of a butternut squash? I make a pureed soup with them and they are a pain to peel, so this could make my life a lot easier.
Joe Yonan: Yes, I believe you can eat the peel (I would think, once it's roasted, of course). I've never tried it, though -- have chatters?
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Silver Spring, MD: Hi Rangers, I went up to a beautiful tea store in Rockville (TenRen) and the young lady in the store said to me that oolong was a form of green tea. After many emails to the company they side stepped my question as to whether it was. After reading your article today I see that it is not. I would like to know though what the health benefits are of oolong tea. I have since found gunpowder green tea at my local co-op in the bulk section and am so enjoying it. I like my tea very strong with nothing in it - just straight tea and I enjoy a cup every morning before I leave for work.
Jane Black: If it's a very light oolong, it probably has a lot in common with green tea. If it's very dark, it will be more like black. But it is it's own type of tea. (And sad that someone working at TenRen doesn't know that!)
It's hard to talk about the health benefits of oolongs because there are so many types, made in so many ways. But according to Fujian Province's official oolong web site (which is promoting oolongs), they are high in polyphenols, which have antioxidant characteristics just like green tea.
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Alexandria, VA: I love so many of your recipes, but one thing about them always confuses me, and that is when you call for a "bunch" of this or a "sprig" of that. How big is a bunch? How long a sprig? It seems to me like different stores have different size bunches. And if you grow your own, how do you know how much is a bunch of basil? I don't have a new system to suggest but I'm sure smarter people than me would be able to figure something out!!
Jane Black: I'm going to let others weigh in here but here's my two cents. When recipes call for an imprecise amount, it usually means there's a range that will work. So if you love basil, use a big bunch. If you don't, use just a little (or none at all.) Precise instructions are important but to be a great cook, in my opinion, you need to be guided by taste.
Joe Yonan: Especially if the about is crucial, we often try to also give a volume measure in parentheses. So "2 bunches (about 1 1/2 cups) cilantro," things like that.
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Philadelphia, PA: Okay, so, dinner for 4 coming up. I'm kind of set on serving homemade pappardelle with mushrooms, just because I love making pasta and tis the season. But I think I need a meat also. Any ideas? Pork roast is currently tops on the list. Lamb is out, unfortunately. Also planning on an arugala salad that could either be served first or with the main.
Also, there's a great recipe for caramelized onion tart I'm dying to try -- is that too much? Onion tart, salad, then pork and pasta for the main?
Jane Black: That sounds a little heavy to me. A small portion of pasta as a starter, then pork and salad (maybe with one other not-so-starchy vegetable like roasted carrots) would be plenty. Especially if you're serving dessert.
I'm going to punt on the caramelized onion tart because I don't have a go-to recipe. Chatters? Any ideas?
Joe Yonan: Did you see this Onion Pie With Lavender, Bacon and Blue Cheese from our Gastronomer a few months back?
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Virginia: Thank you for the reassurance on my five-y.o.'s diet.
Can you please share a recipe for homemade chicken nuggets? Ideally baked, not fried? Can I make a big batch and freeze them for future use? With three kids under 6, time is an issue. Thank you.
Bonnie Benwick: Well, it can be as simple as cutting up chunks of raw chicken breast, dunking them first in slightly beaten egg whites and then in plain or preseasoned bread crumbs, then placing the nuggets on a baking sheet and baking at, say 350, for 15 to 20 minutes. Those could be done in batches and frozen, certainly. Or you could try this recipe from Stephanie Witt Sedgwick, who has more recently survived young-eaters' syndrome. It has an adaptation factor you might like: Here you go.
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Downtown, DC: Hello! Do you have any suggestions for what I could do with leftover ham? I can get one more meal out of it and have already done scalloped potatoes and omelets. Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: Dice it up small and throw it in a pan. Sprinkle on a little sugar or use some honey or agave nectar; saute over medium heat and stir until the bits are caramelized. Add them to your favorite vegetable or salad, or use it as a garnish for soup.
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Alexandria: I made quinoa last night, which I have had once before. I just cooked it in a pot of boiling chicken stock. However, it was really bitter. I don't remember this from last time. Did I do something wrong?
Joe Yonan: You have to rinse it before cooking to get off the bitter substance...
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RE: freezing holiday treats: Hi guys, I made some home made peppermint bark last year and kept the leftovers in my freezer. Should I toss them?
Bonnie Benwick: How were they kept? Taste and see...prob won't hurt.
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Philadelphia, PA: Any suggestions on what to do with a big bag of frozen, cooked shrimp? I got 'em on sale but I forgot a bargain's not a bargain if it goes to waste.
If all else fails I could just serve them with cocktail sauce but I thought you might have a more creative answer. Escabeche?
Jane Black: There are tons of things you can do with them. Poach them and put them in a salad, stir-fry them from frozen. In fact, I'd bet you can do almost anything.
Here's a recipe I like a lot from Nancy Silverton's "Twist of the Wrist" which happens to be on my desk.
Cumin Shrimp and Garbanzo Bean Salad with Roasted Carrots
Serves 4
12 baby carrots, trimmed (you can also use carrots chopped into 3 inch batons)
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and pepper
For the vinaigrette
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp plus 2 tsp ground cumin
4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
10 ounces cooked large shrimp, peeled and tails removed
1 15-ounce can garbanzo beans, rinced and drained (about 1 1/2 cups)
8 cups mixed baby greens
sea salt
20 chives
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 500 degrees.
Place the carrots on a sheet pan. Drizzle them wiht olive oil, sprinkle with kosher salt and ground black pepper and toss to coat. Roast the carrots until they arelightly browned and tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly.
To make the vinaigrette, pour the vinegar and lemon juice into a small bowl. Add the cumin and garlic. Stir in the olive oil, salt and pepper.
Combine the shrimp, beans and carrots in a large bowl. Drizzle with 1/4 cup of the vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat and set aside to marinate for 5 minutes.
Divide the greens among four plates. Pile half the shrimp mixture over hte greens and drizzle half of the remaining vinaigrette over the salads. Pile iwth reminaing greens in a second layer, then the rest of the shrimpl mixutre. Drizzle iwth remaining vinaigrette. Sprinkle the salads iwth a pinch of cumin and sea salt. Snip chives on top.
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Alexandria, Va.: I'm making potatoes au gratin for an office pot luck and the recipe I have calls for the thinly sliced potatoes to be baked in heavy cream with cheese and seasonings. I think this may end up being too dry - would adding milk make it too runny? Not as a substitute for the cream, but in addition to it. Of course, I'll take any other suggestions you guys may have!
Bonnie Benwick: Dry? nah.
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Richmond, Va.: great make-ahead gift (not really food...) is pomander balls: stick cloves into oranges, smell great all year.
Joe Yonan: Wow, now that takes me back!
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Washington, DC: I have found that if you throw your chicken in the food processor, you get more of a chicken-nugget texture. Mix in with an egg, some breadcrumbs, whatever seasoning you want (you'd probably want to keep it simple for the little one). Form patties and put them in the fridge to set. When they're cool, roll them in breadcrumbs, give them a quick saute to brown the crumbs, and finish them in the oven. You can even make a nice dipping sauce for yourself and eat a meal with her!
Bonnie Benwick: Thanks DC!
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Mmmm, sweet potatoes: I didn't know I liked them until I was in my 30s - no one in my family will eat them, and I always associated them with marshmallow casseroles (which I've still never tried). One of my favorites ways to eat is to peel, slice into pieces about 1.5 inches thick, toss with olive oil, garlic, and lots of fresh thyme, sprinkle with kosher salt, and roast in the oven. Sometimes I add crushed red peppers or pimenton to the mix. Yum!
Joe Yonan: Thanks!
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Hey Virginia: Just in case someone else hasn't mentioned it yet, have you had your daughter checked for a lactose intolerance? I noticed you said she refused to eat cheese and drink milk - if she gets an upset stomach when consuming them, she might not know what food it was that made her feel bad, just that something did, and so she'll avoid everything she had during those moments.
Otherwise, since she is eating fruits and vegetables, pasta, and fish and chicken (ok, those are breaded), get her involved in picking out what kind of fruit, vegetables, and pasta she wants to try - take her to the grocery store and let her study the different options, then pick out a new item each week, with the understanding that she at least has to try it, and if she doesn't like it she has to explain what about the food she doesn't like. She's old enough to say if it's the taste, the texture, the fibers, etc. And also let her select what chicken and fish she thinks looks good (within reason, naturally) to make her own fish sticks and nuggets. Insist that she help with the preparation and clean-up, as much as is safe. And when you do make the sticks and nuggets, slowly work your way to smaller amounts of breading each time.
Bonnie Benwick: A good thing to consider.
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Pick guitars, fill fruit jars, and be gayo: Gumbo question: I've made chicken and sausage file gumbo twice now with decent (but not great results). I checked an old Prudhommme recipe, and have been making the roux, adding chili mirepoix (green peppers, no carrots), aromatics, chicken stock, cayenne, file, etc. I can't help thinking that I'm not darkening the roux enough. I've been stopping at red-brown. Do I need to get to brown-black to get that deep deep flavor that we all love?
Bonnie Benwick: You've got my vote for best post, just for the handle. Are you listening, editor Joe? I make a great old Justin Theroux chix-sausage gumbo that always turns out well; a red-brown roux works fine. What kind of sausage are you using? I like a cured andouille, which really deepens the flavor as the gumbo's on for hours. Your mirepoix has onion and celery, yes? A little file goes a long way.
Joe Yonan: I'm sorry, did someone say "gayo"?
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Washington D.C.: I was thinking about making a mushroom 'meatball' recipe I saw on Ciao Italia on public tv last night. It called for using peanut oil to fry the mushroom balls - can I substitute vegetable or canola?
Bonnie Benwick: Those polpette di funghi look good, as I'm seeing the recipe at www.ciaoitalia.com. You could use the oil you have on hand, but it's a good idea to keep peanut oil in your pantry. It has a high smoke point and a mild flavor, so many chefs prefer it for frying. Judging from the tender recipe ingredients, it'd be a good idea to get those meatballs cooked as quickly as possible.
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cast iron skillet: So I took your advice and added a cast iron skillet (pre-seasoned) to my birthday wish list. I casually mentioned it to my mom, who went out and bought for me the next day (I was visiting for the weekend). So now that I have it, what should I do with it? What can I make with it?
Joe Yonan: I think the better question is ... what CAN'T you make with it? You can saute veggies, pan-fry meats (including a mean steak), fry chicken (if it's deep enough) -- so much more I'm drawing a blank!
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Joe Yonan: Everyone, introducing a special guest: baker extraordinaire Lisa Yockelson...
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McLean: Hi
As to the shortening, isn't it preferable in some recipes because it adds the fat without the water that is found in butter? It also doesn't melt as easily as butter does so it can be worked in without ruining the texture of the dough -- or something like that.
My question for the day is that I have been on a reduced carbohydrate diet -- meat and lots of vegetables and I have gotten over the carb cravings. Sort of. Except I just sprained my ankle. Does anyone have any suggestions as to things I can buy or make that don't involve too much standing? I am not coordinated enough to cook on crutches.
Lisa Yockelson: Regarding shortening: it contributes to texture and flakiness, and, depending upon the recipe, can be substituted for butter, but realize that shortening does not deliver the same flavor as would butter.
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Richmond, VA: I make a slow cooker veggie curry almost once a week with whatever comes in the CSA box and the butternut squash that's usually languishing on the counter.
It improved greatly after I discovered powdered coconut milk. No waste and it thickens the curry nicely. I bought mine online from Kalustyan's. It's in NYC and a great place to get all sorts of delicious ingredients. I have since seen the powdered coconut milk in Asian and Indian markets.
It's also delicious as an addition to tapioca pudding and coconut pound cake. You'll wonder how you lived so long without it. Unless you don't like coconut...
Jane Black: How interesting. So how much do you add approximately to your stir fry? And is it really just dehydrated coconut milk? Or are there other ingredients?
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Substitutes: For the curried shrimp recipe - do you still need 1 tablespoon of curry powder? I would like to add an onion flavor - would you recommend I cook an onion, or add chives? Also, would parsley be a good subsitute for cilantro or should it just be ommitted?
Joe Yonan: I don't understand, exactly -- I'm calling for the Thai curry paste first, but saying you could use curry powder instead of the paste. As for the onion/parsley question, I'd kill two birds with one stone and add chives, sure, instead of cilantro. (Are you one of the "cilantro-tastes-like-soap" people?)
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brined fried turkey: I know it's a little early, but i need some help. We're having 15-17 people for Thanksgiving, therefore I need to do two turkeys (16-ish pounds each). I plan on smoking a bird and frying the other. I always brine my birds before smoking them, and was wondering what are your thoughts on frying!?! Should I inject before frying or just brine along with the other bird?
Thanks
Bonnie Benwick: Lots of fryers, as in cooks who fry, opt for injecting. I think I'd brine, but make sure the bird was completely dry before lowering it into the bubbling cauldron.
I fried for some Thanksgiving taste testing this year...it was my first time. I can see the appeal.
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RE: vegetable shortening: I'm curious why the previous poster had an aversion to a recipe using shortening but even more curious to hear any explanation for what vegetable shortening does for baked goods. I know, for example, that whenever my mom made chocolate chip cookies she would always follow the recipe except when it came to butter - she would use half the amount of butter called for and replace the other half with shortening. Not sure what goes on there but I know it works!
Lisa Yockelson: Note my answer to the previous chatter regarding the textural change when shortening is used in place of butter-- in the case of chocolate chip cookies, shortening would add volume to the baked cookie (all butter generally produces produces a flatter, more brittle-like cookie).
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Leftover Ham: If you can slice it thin, make grilled ham and cheese sandwiches. Ham and steamed cabbage is good too. So is ham with mac and cheese.
Joe Yonan: Someone stop me before I paste in (amended) lyrics to the Monty Python spam and eggs song again...
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picky 5 year old: Just wanted to ask why she has to eat meat? I started not to like anything but nuggets, fish sticks, and hot dogs around that age for the very reason that none of those things actually resembles meat in any way. By 8, I was off meat altogether. I have been healthy and 100% vegetarian since then.
I am 35 and run marathons and my doctor says he is "jealous" of my lab numbers. I also am the mom of 3 kids under 7, all who are veggies.
I am grateful to my non-veg parents for being open-minded with me and letting me go my own way.
There are a billion different foods your child can eat, and one fun way to get her interested is to have her help cook them. Let her help you make some hummus and serve it wit pita wedges and crudites that she might like (most kids like carrots). Have her help you make some instant cous cous (there are lots of kid-friendly flavors) and serve it with cubes sweet potatoes. And really, a PB&J on multigrain (cut up into fun shapes) is very nutritious. Or try almond butter for a change.
If she feels in control of the food, she will start to open her mind.
I'd try to get away from the fried and trans-fat type food she seems to be gravitating toward now, so you might, if she doesn't like the other things I suggest above, try some healthier soy or Quorn nuggets that are lower in fat and have no sat fat at all (and are quite tasty, especially the Quorn ones).
Good luck. It is important to remember that clogged arteries start with toddlers, so it is good of you to be thinking of this stuff now.
Bonnie Benwick: Virginia...are you still there?
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Falls Church: HELP! I thought I saw a recipe, very recently in the Food Section for a Pork Roast - my memory, which apparently is getting pretty bad, thought it was roasted with apple cider. However when I go through the recipe finder I get nuthin'!! Was there such a recipe? If not, do you have one? I am thinking of doing something like this for Thanksgiving. Maybe it was merely wishful thinking. Rats...
Jane Black: Yeah, I don't see anything in the archive. Here's a 2003 recipe for cider-braised pork steaks. If you can't make it for Thanksgiving, maybe you can enjoy it another time.
Cider-Braised Pork Steaks
(4 to 6 servings)
This dish of apple-infused pork takes well to a side dish of slightly sweet winter vegetables, such as baked acorn squash or mashed sweet potatoes.
A pork blade steak is cut from just behind the shoulder; it is a tough cut that becomes meltingly tender with long, slow cooking.
2 pork blade steaks (1 to 11/2 pounds each)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large onion, thinly sliced
3/4 cup apple cider
3/4 cup chicken stock or broth
2 tablespoons coarse brown mustard
3 tablespoons minced fresh sage
4 tablespoons chopped scallions (optional garnish)
Pat the pork dry. Season the pork with salt and pepper to taste. Place a Dutch oven or a large, heavy skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Add the pork and cook, uncovered, turning to brown each side evenly, for a total of about 15 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate; cover to keep warm.
To the drippings in the skillet, add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cider and, using a wooden spoon, stir and scrape the bottom of the skillet. Add the stock, mustard and sage and stir to combine. Return the pork to the pan, increase the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently until the pork is tender and falling off the bone, about 11/2 hours.
Transfer the pork to a cutting board and carve it into individual portions. Transfer the pork to a platter and, if desired, spoon some of the sauce over the top and sprinkle with scallions. Serve immediately.
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cast iron pan: One of my favorite things to do w/cast iron: sear steak and throw the whole thing in the oven to finish cooking! I love being able to transfer from stove to oven :)
Bonnie Benwick: Give that fan a contract!
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GOOD vegetable shortening: Try Earth Balance sticks. Taste just like butter and trans and sat fat free. Plus, you can sub 1 to 1 for butter or other shortening. I get them at MOM's. Have not seen anywhere else.
Joe Yonan: Thanks for the tip, but I would have to disagree with the "taste just like butter" description. Nothing does except butter. I CAN believe it's not butter!
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D.C. : I tried the Subanik recipe that was in the food section a few weeks back. I emailed my question to the address posted, but received no response, so why not try here? Due to the high cost of meat, and due to dietary preferences on "heart healthy" meals, I was considering using just chicken and maybe eggplant, and actually asked how to adjust the recipe for the veggie option that was listed. Do you have any pointers? (I ended up doing all chicken, but it lacked a dimension of flavor. Especially the leftovers.) Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Bonnie Benwick: I'm surprised about a lack of flavor. The sauce seemed loaded with it. I think eggplant would come apart in the slow cooking. Why not try some of your favorite root vegetables? You could roast them first, for extra flavor.
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Coco Milk: I freeze coconut milk all the time with no ill effects. I buy the low-fat version, not sure if that makes a diff. If it separates when thawed, a shake or a stir brings it right back to normal.
Joe Yonan: Great. Thanks!
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To freeze or not to freeze?: Last night I made a delicious cranberry sauce from a recent Whole Foods recipe for a potluck Thanksgiving-themed dinner. Turns out, the dinner's next week and not tonight as I thought! Without giving much thought to it I threw the whole container in the freezer, but now I'm a bit nervous. Do you think the sauce will hold up? When should I defrost? Any ideas or just make a new batch? Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: Should be fine.
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Washington, DC: I keep my gunpowder loose green tea in the fridge in a tupperware container. Is that okay? Would it be better to keep it in the freezer in a zip lock bag? Also, I can get 5-7 cups out of two tablepoons of tea - am I still getting the health benefits?
Jane Black: I'm not sure how much tea you'd need to drink to get the health benefits. But I can tell you that it's best to store the tea outside the fridge. Moisture is one of the enemies of fresh tea. Keep it in a tin or caddy in a regular cabinet or the pantry.
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peppermint bark again: Just in freezer bags w/as much air sucked out as possible. Does chocolate ever go bad if frozen? Thanks! Love this chat!
Bonnie Benwick: When you defrost it, see if it has a slight whitish bloom. That won't make it inedible, but not as tasty.
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DC/Logan Circle: Regarding coconut milk, http://importfood.com/canned.html has 5.6 oz cans of coconut milk, just .99 per can
Joe Yonan: Well, that helps -- thanks much!
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American Tea: Don't forget the Charleston Tea Plantation. http://www.bigelowtea.com/act/
Jane Black: Funny. I was going to suggest that too. (I just drove by the plantation the other weekend.) But as far as I can tell, they don't make oolongs. It's all black tea, much of which is flavored.
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Laurel, MD: I just learned to make challah bread but wanted to check about freezing it. I'll be out of town before I drive across the bridge to Mom's for Christmas -- can I make it ahead of time and freeze it, like I would any other bread?
And with travel restrictions being what they are, what's the best gift food I can make and carry to the midwest on a plane? Going to meet the SO's family for the first time...
Lisa Yockelson: Challah (fully baked) freezes relatively well and I have found the optimum freezer time for egg yolk or whole egg-enriched breads to be about three weeks.
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More on shortening...: My favorite snickerdoodle recipes calls for it and so I use it. But I hate cleaning anything that touches it! Do you have any tips for this? I can't seem to get the measuring cup free of film, even after a dishwasher cycle. Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: Try a rinse with distilled white vinegar.
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Boulder, Co: I'm not sure if my earlier question went through: What the heck is leaf lard?
For the chatter wanting the pork roast/cider recipe, check out Kim O'Donnel's archives. It sounds familiar and could be from a previous chat or her blog...
Joe Yonan: Sorry, we're getting tons of questions and typing as fast as we can. Leaf lard is the highest grade and doesn't have much pork flavor, and it's just great for flaky pie crusts.
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Arlington, VA: I have to miss today's chat, unfortunately. I liked the article on preparing baked goods ahead; I've always frozen half my chocolate chip cookie dough in rolls. I have two questions, though.
1. Why thaw the dough first? I usually just slice it while the oven is preheating and it's mostly thawed, if not entirely thawed, when the cookie sheet goes in the oven.
2. Why not use frozen/thawed butter? I buy the big packs at Costco so always freeze some of it. Why shouldn't we use that thawed butter in baking?
Thanks!! Love finding ways to plan ahead and streamline cooking, so more articles like that would be appreciated.
Lisa Yockelson: Regarding the use of frozen butter: in my experience, frozen butter, defrosted, produces heavier cakes made by the "creamed" method, and denser baked cookies, so I always call for fresh butter. One exception would be in brownie batters, where density is prized, so frozen and defrosted butter would not harm the batter. The texture of many baked goods is not at its finest if frozen and defrosted butter is used, as the emulsification process is somewhat skewed during the efrosting process.
Regarding thawing cookie dough, whiel it is tru that some doughs can defrost in the time it takes to preheat the oven, some do not, so it is a vauluable tool to know that dough can be shifted to the refrigerator if you are planning a big bake the next day.
Note that it is so wonderful to have the dough made from my oatmeal cookie recipe today in the freezer!
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Anonymous: I know I've asked this question a lot without getting an answer, but now there is yet another story in the Post about BPA (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/10/28/AR2008102803406.html?hpid=moreheadlines) so I will try again, do you know of any brand of canned tomatoes that does not have Bisphenol A in the can linings?
If you don't know, just say so and I'll stop asking.
Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: You're patient for continuing to check in. We're still working on it. Come back next week; I feel the answer's close. Manufacturers have not been exactly forthcoming about this, for some reason.
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Washington, DC: Oh the problems I have in the stores when I ask for sweet potatoes and they give me yams and tell me they are both alike. No they aren't and I wish these stores would stop telling people that. Also, I do shop quite a bit at Whole Foods and they never seem to have sweet potatoes - just yams - hope they are paying attention to this discussion (smile).
Joe Yonan: You're sure you're looking at real yams (from Africa), and not just yams as in what people in the South call sweet potatoes?
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Washington, DC: Cut your ham up into steaks. Season with pepper and pan-fry until brown. Remove. Deglaze pan with bourbon. Toss in a big pinch of brown sugar and a spoonful of mustard. If it's too thick, add a bit of broth, but it usually works out for me. Serve over the ham. Literally dinner in minutes, and it's a nice alternative to the usual fruity sauces you see with ham.
Bonnie Benwick: Mmm. Mustard. Good.
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biscotti love: I want to make a batch of dark chocolate-dipped biscotti and am wondering about storage. With heating systems on now, I worry about a sticky mess if I store them at "room temp" and my experience with chocolate-coated things is they can get kind of ugly/chalky looking and tasting when taken out to room temp after being refrigerated or frozen (even when using good professionally tempered chocolate). Can you give me any guidance on storage? Thanks!
Lisa Yockelson: My best advice is to bake the biscotti ahead, and chocolate-dip them on an as-needed basis, allowing enough time for the chocolate to set (of course).
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pressure cooker: Hi Rangers, Any luck in tracking down the brand of Jacques Pepin's pressure cooker? Thank you for looking into it for your faithful reader.
Joe Yonan: Hey, thanks for checking back. I'm still waiting for this answer -- hopefully by next week!
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Burke, VA: Any suggestions for a nice bottle of wine to bring for Thanksgiving as a hostess gift? Red or white ?
Jane Black: Ah the old "what to drink with turkey" debate. The basic answer is: champagne (or other bubbly); riesling, something dry or barely off dry; or a pinot noir, something fruity from California perhaps. Here's a link to Karen and Andrew's column last year addressing this issue.
Joe Yonan: And of course Dave McIntyre will weigh in on this issue in next week's section, so you'll have plenty more ideas then -- and then on Sunday, Nov. 23, when Karen and Andrew focus on what to pair with Thanksgiving desserts.
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Chicago, Ill.: I am hoping to make a big pot of chili this weekend to warm me from the wind off of Lake Michigan. I usually use ground beef and kidney beans, but I would like to increase the beans to meat ratio. Are there other types of beans that would be yummy to add - black, pinto, something else? Thanks!
Jane Black: Try borlotti or cranberry beans.
Bonnie Benwick: Black beans are great in chili. And since it's sweet potato day, why not cube some and throw them in, too?
Joe Yonan: I'm TRYING not to be all Texas purist about chili for a few minutes here. I can do it, I can do it...
Bonnie Benwick: I KNEW you couldn't just hit "publish."
Joe Yonan: Of course you did.
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banana cake: Hi Lisa,
Do you have a favorite banana cake recipe you could share please?
Joe Yonan: Oh, my. I know at least PART of the answer to this question, from personal experience!
Lisa Yockelson: Oh my!
ONE of my best banana cakes is coming up in a new baking book (which is now in photo production) and I can't reveal the recipe now!
There is a lovely chocolate chip banana tea loaf in CHOCOLATECHOCOLATE, though, that you might want to try.
Joe Yonan: I'll help build a little (much-deserved) VERY advance buzz. This cake made me swoon.
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Philadelphia, PA: The skin of butternut squash is not that pleasant to eat and I think it would make your pureed soup stringy. Delicata squash skin, however, is thin and edible. Then your soup will be yellow instead of orange, but easily tintable with a few strings of saffron. Different but very good.
Butternut squash is much easier to peel with a Y-peeler, and if your recipe calls for roasting the squash first, you can easily scoop the cooked flesh out of the skin and avoid peeling altogether.
Bonnie Benwick: It's even easier to lop it off with a knife, if the butternut squash is raw. Trim top and bottom of the squash so it's flat, then make vertical cuts downward till the hard peel is g-o-n-e.
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For the 5 year old chicken nuggets: I often make "fried" chicken by doing a flour, egg, and bread crumb dredge and baking. A couple of tips: I make whole wheat bread crumbs by putting whole wheat bread (I hate the heels on sandwiches, so this is how I use them) in a food processor then toast them in the oven for 5-7 minutes at 400. To make the chicken crispy, preheat the baking sheet in the oven and spray both sides with Pam to make them extra crispy. Drop and bake at 350 for 10-12 minutes (depending on thickness). I use this to make chicken parm and it's great!
Bonnie Benwick: Virginia, this might be your last tip o' the day.
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Virginia again: Thanks for the tips on chicken nuggets, and thanks also for the comments from the veg mom. I have spent most of my adult life not eating red meat and poultry, and sometimes not seafood either, so I identify with your feelings. My daughter will not eat nuts or eggs and few dairy foods, however, and she shies away from soy foods, so I do worry about her getting enough protein. Her nuggets are baked, not fried, by the way, and I do spring for the "natural" Bell and Evans variety.
I will try some of your suggestions. Thanks again!
Bonnie Benwick: Closure.
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casserole breads: I was sitting at the doctor's office, flipping through magazines, and came across casserole breads. How do these work? Do you have a tried and tested recipe? I don't have a casserole dish, per se, but would a Le Creuset dutch oven or a pyrex dish work?
Bonnie Benwick: Dutch oven works great.
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Richmond, VA: The coconut milk powder box (makes instant coconut milk and cream!) lists the ingredients as coconut kernel extract (82%), maltodextrin, and sodium caseinate.
It also instructs you to add 3T to a cup of water for thick milk or 1T for thin milk. I mix a few T with water to make a paste and add that to my curry or reconstitute it as per the instructions for a stir-fry or for baking.
Jane Black: Thanks for sharing that with us.
Joe Yonan: Love it! I must get me some of that.
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Pumpkin questions!: I want to do a pumpkin pie with fresh pumpkin for the first time this year, but I would also love to be able to roast and puree the pumpkin in advance, so I'm not trying to do that in all of the Thanksgiving prep. How far in advance would I be able to do that? Would the Saturday before Thanskgiving be pushing it? Thanks, food crew!
Lisa Yockelson: You could create the pumpkin puree about 2 days before you need to use it.
I love homemade pumpkin puree made from sugar pumpkins.
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Washington, DC: I know this is more of a Tom question - but I missed his chat this morning and saw the article about Art Smith maybe becoming the executive chef at the White House. Any reports as to how his new restaurant is doing - Art and Soul? Thanks!
washingtonpost.com: Tom Sietsema's review of Art and Soul runs this Sunday in the Magazine section. Stay tuned!
Joe Yonan: Yes, read up. I'm hoping to get there soon myself.
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Real pumpkin pie!: I have a bunch of sugar pumpkins and other squashes from my CSA and have been been on a pumpkin pie kick. I blended a couple of recipes for this:
De-seed a pumpkin, cutting stem off and quarter the pieces. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, then roast for one hour at 400 degrees. Don't boil and drain - you lose all the good stuff.
Scrape the pumpkin and cool (I also gave it a quick lashing with the beaters to blend it a bit better).
Beat 1 package cream cheese until fluffy, then add 3/4 cup sugar and 2 teaspoons of spices (I used pumpkie spice and extra cinnamon). Beat in, one at a time, 3 eggs.
Beat in the pumpkin and a teaspoon of vanilla, pour mix into unbaked pie crust and bake for 40-45 minutes at 350. So delicious!
Joe Yonan: Nice -- thanks!
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Fruitcake: Monastery Bakery (in VA) has the best fruitcake. I'm not fond of the stuff in general, but Monastery definitely makes the best. There's none of that funky taste in most cakes. Lots of fruit and nuts with real booze. My husband loves fruitcake so I've tasted way more of them than I wanted to. Grandma's/Krema is ok, but a distant second.
Joe Yonan: Noted.
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blended cocoa: Lisa- What can I use blended cocoa (natural and dutch cocoas) in? I am having difficulty in finding recipes that call for cocoa.
Lisa Yockelson: Brownies! Some chocolate cake batters. In yeast breads (replacing a little of the all-purpose flour).
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Bethesda, MD: I have a ton of pumpkin left over, and wanted to experiment with it. I was thinking of making Pumpkin Gougeres with Smoked Gouda and Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls. Do you have any advice on how I can add pumpkin into these recipes?
Bonnie Benwick: Maybe neither of those recipes would really call for much pumpkin -- if you're looking to use up vast amounts. Seems likely you'd reduce the amounts of flour and water until you came up with the right dough consistency.
Why not freeze the pumpkin?
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Indianapolis, Ind.: I like to make cranberry bread in the fall. The recipe on the Ocean Spray bag is actually pretty good, and I add orange zest to jazz it up a little. Do you have other suggestions for giving it some extra zing? Some kind of ginger, maybe? Or another spice? Or if you can suggest another recipe, that's great too. Thanks!
Lisa Yockelson: I love ginger (ground and chopped crystallized) in cranberry bread; the combination of both makes for a memorable quick bread.
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I Yam what I Yam: MOM's on Mt Vernon Ave had 5 (five!) types of sweet pots/yams on Saturday, and all were local/organic. It was great. I got some very pale yellow ones that were lovely roasted with butternut squash and then mixed with swiss chard and garlic.
Joe Yonan: Yay!
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Washington, DC: My favorite sweet potato meal: roasted, with a small sliver of butter, some chopped nuts (I prefer almonds, but anything is yummy), cinnamon, and...cottage cheese. Much healthier than sour cream, but still that dairy flavor and between the butter and 2% cottage cheese, the whole thing still feels reminiscent of a baked potato bar.
If I am short on time, or too hungry to wait (more likely), I microwave and the whole thing is ready is under 10 min.
I know what's for dinner tonight...
Joe Yonan: I love cottage cheese -- my only problem with it is a lack of self-control. So what I buy is what I eat. But thanks for the idea...
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Falls Church: Thankyouthankyouthankyou! For the pork steak recipe and I will also check out the Kim O'Donnel chat/blog as suggested by chatter; I'm a devoted food section person, but I do occasionally, ahem, read other chats ;-)
Bonnie Benwick: As do we.
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Squash peel: ...definitely can be eaten. I recommend it off of roasted squash though. Butternut squash that has been roasted to carmelized/bursting has peel akin to baked potato, but much sweeter.
Joe Yonan: Thanks!
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Subsitutes: I meant if I wanted to substitute the curry powder, would I put in 1 tablespoon?
PS. I don't HATE cilantro, I just don't like buying it if it's just going to be a garnish. I have parsley growing on my windowsill.
Joe Yonan: I'd start with 1 teaspoon, and then increase to taste if need be...
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Arlington, VA: Hi! I have some leftover canned pumpkin that I didn't use all of. I'm tired of the same old pumpkin pie and breads and such. Do you have any recipes for any other type of dessert or maybe something savory to do with the rest of the pumpkin? Also, do you know how long it will keep in the fridge? Thanks!
Jane Black: How about Bonnie's pasta with creamy pumpkin sauce? The pumpkin should last in tupperware for about three days in the fridge.
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Washington, D.C.: Your article about tea and recipe for scones made me think about my recent trip to London where we enjoyed afternoon tea. In addition to blackberry jam, we were also given clotted cream for our scones. I've tried to find clotted cream at the store, but haven't seen it. Is it available in the U.S.? Is it something to make rather than to buy?
Jane Black: I feel like I've seen clotted cream at Balducci's. At the very least, you could order it from an online store like iGourmet (which you can find through Amazon.)
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Fairfax, VA: Hello. Thank you for reading my question.
I am looking for a vanilla cake frosting/icing recipe that I can easily modify when necessary (example, adding lemon juice, raspberry or strawberry jams, etc.) that does not contain powdered sugar. It seems to leave a raw cornstarch texture and flavor whenever I've tried using it in frostings.
Lisa Yockelson: Cornstarch in powdered sugar (it is about 3 percent) can leave a chalky taste, and in order to modify it, it is a good idea to use the liquid in the recipe tepid, rather than cold. The cornstarch-free confectioners' sugar used in my kitchen has been difficult to find (and unavailable for a few years), so now I am fine-tuning all recipes to use what's available.
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Arlington, VA: I was perusing the Sur La Table catalog and saw a notice to California consumers (Prop 65 warning) that "consuming balsamic vinegars . . . will expose you to lead . . ." Huh? I know leaded glass/crystal containers are a problem, but this is the first I've heard that balsamic vinegar contains lead. I use it ALL THE TIME. Do you know about this?
Bonnie Benwick: Yikes. No. We'll check around.
Joe Yonan: There was a lawsuit in California a few years back about this. It's a very complicated situation, so I didn't pick up the question, but we'll look into it more so we can give a fuller response next week.
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Nebraska: My Dad goes hunting around this time each year and brings back ducks and geese. We were thinking of swapping out the turkey for one of these fowl for the Thanksgiving bird. The problem is that since they are wild they are extremely tough. Do you have any recipes that would make the meat more tender?
Bonnie Benwick: There's a game-hunting with chefs Chef on Call feature coming up on Nov. 23, our second of two Thanksgiving issues. We'll see what the pros have to say about toughness.
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Douglass Park, VA: In "Start Now, Finish (Much) Later Lisa Yockelson recommends using fresh (not previously frozen and defrosted) unsalted butter. 1. How do I know the butter in my grocery store has not been frozen? 2. Why bother if the dough will be frozen before baked anyway? 3. Is there discernible taste difference between the butter I buy in the store and the butter I have in my freezer? I know that frozen fruit, beef, chicken taste much better fresh, never frozen, but butter? With the exception of freshly churned butter that taste divine when first made, but loses superiority after a few days in the fridge.
Lisa Yockelson: When the dough is prepared with fresh butter, the texture is intact, thus freezing the dough does not harm it. It's not the taste of the butter that is modified, it is the texture of the baked goods made with it.
Your first question is a good one: whether or not the butter you buy has been frozen--this is a conundrum I face often.
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Chix nugget mom: check out Vegan Lunchbox!
http://www.veganlunchbox.blogspot.com/
some neat ideas
Joe Yonan: Thanks!
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Joe Yonan: Well, we're steeped and ready to sip, so you know what that means: We're done!
Thanks for the great questions today. Sorry we couldn't get to everything; you chatters have a lot on your minds!
We do have time to announce the giveaway books, though: The chatter who picks guitars and fills fruit jars will get "Best Food Writing 2008," edited by Holly Hughes and featuring, among others, our very own Jane Black. And the one who turned us onto coconut milk powder will get "Market Vegetarian" by Ross Dobson. Send your mailing info to food@washpost.com, and we'll get em to you.
Get ready for our two special Thanksgiving issues, starting next Wednesday. Until then, happy cooking, eating and reading.
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