Free Range on Food: Thanksgiving Eve Advice on Turkey, Sweet Potatoes, Cranberry Sauce, Pie and more

A chat with the Washington Post Food Section staff is a forum for discussion of all things culinary: food trends, recipes, ingredients, menus, gadgets and more. You can share your thoughts on the latest Food section, get suggestions from fellow cooks and food lovers, or swap old-fashioned recipes the new-fashioned way. The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.

A transcript follows.

Transcripts of past chats

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Jane Black: Greetings, nation, and welcome to Free Range, the chat that'll make you hungry -- and ready to cook, we hope.

Because let's face it, who else is going to do it? And this is your last chance to ask our experts and very opinionated food crew about turkey troubleshooting, mashed potato mysteries -- or any last-minute inspiration.

Though we too should be at the stove, we've assembled a good group of experts today. Along with the Food staff, David Hagedorn, chef-on-call guru, baking expert Lisa Yockelson and our In-Season columnist Stephanie Witt-Sedgwick who has been doing a lot of thinking about vegetarian sides.

As befits this season of giving, we'll have our usual two giveaway books. We'll announce them later in the chat. So stay tuned and let's get started!

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Alexandria, Va.: Any tips for timing of food for Thanksgiving? I am bringing desserts (pumpkin pie and baked apples) and vegetables (broccoli and cauliflower au gratin) to a Thanksgiving dinner. I am to arrive several hours before the meal. I guess I could bake the pie in advance and it will be fine, but what about the other dishes? Should I cook the au gratin vegetables and then just have them reheated (how will I make sure they don't overcook)? Switch to roasted vegetables instead of au gratin -- will that keep better? Prep the apples and then just bake them while we are eating the meal (how will I make sure they do not brown)? There's going to be a lot of competition at the home for access to the oven, so I want to prepare as much in advance as I can. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Okay, you asked for advice and here it is. Absolutely switch to roasted vegetables. The broccoli and cauliflower are guaranteed to get overcooked if done ahead. The roasted vegetables can be cooked and then quickly reheated in a hot oven after the turkey's out.

Next, bake your apples at home that morning as well, just don't refrigerate them when you're done. They'll be fine sitting out at room temperature. If you'd like to serve them warm, pop them in a hot oven (by then there will be a lot less competition for oven space) but it's not a necessity.

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Turkey help!: Hi -- I'm planning to use the method you all outlined in your recipe for turkey with chestnuts and mushrooms to cook my turkey. But my bird is bigger than the one in your recipe -- mine is 16.64 pounds, rather than the 12-14 pounder you all used. How should I adjust the cooking time? You call for 3-4 hours -- how much more should I do? Thank you!

Bonnie Benwick: Maybe 30 minutes more; it'd be great if you had a meat thermometer to check the internal temp (shoot for 165 breast meat, 175 dark meat). The turkey roasts unstuffed. You can add the mushrooms and chestnuts to the cavity for presentation...

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To brine or not to brine: I'm roasting a turkey breast (bone-in, not self basting) tomorrow and am still trying to decide if I want to try a simple brine or not.

My mom has high blood pressure and is sensitive to large amounts of salt. How much salt is actually absorbed? Can the drippings still be used for gravy or will they be too salty? How long should it be brined? I'm seeing anywhere between 4 and 24 hours.

Happy Thanksgiving and remember that when you park your SUV on a slope, make sure you put the six-pack bag of wine somewhere secure, like in a back seat instead of the very back with the rest of the groceries. If you don't, gravity takes over and you end up with a driveway drenched in wine. Lesson learned and cleaned up yesterday.

Joe Yonan: It's really difficult to say how much sodium gets absorbed in a brine, but if she's really sensitive, I'd say don't brine at all. (Bonnie tested a salt-crust turkey breast this year, to delicious effect, but I'd say that same caution holds. The meat was perfectly seasoned to my taste, but I don't have your mom's sensitivities.) The thing is, there's less need for brining or other special techniques when doing a breast because you're not needing as much insurance as when roasting a whole turkey, what with its very different-cooking light and dark meats and all.

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Let's Talk Turkey: Thank you for your last minute turkey help!!

My oven has a convection setting, and I've heard that is better for cooking a turkey. Should I decrease the temperature or the cooking time, or both?

Jane Black: Each oven is different but in general you should lower the temperature (between 25 and 50 degrees) or the time.

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Falls Church, Va.: We're hosting for the first time, so my wife is roasting a turkey for the first time this year. She's not planning to brine, she is planning to use a roasting bag, standard fresh bird, about 16 lbs. Any tips on how to make this work out right? She is not a natural in the kitchen.

Bonnie Benwick: Why the bag? Can't say I'm a fan; I've never been able to extract a bird from a roasting bag with all of its skin intact. If you're worried about dryness, try the old Martha Stewart method of soaking cheesecloth (you can buy this at the grocery store; use all of what's in the package) in a mixture of melted butter and white wine, then drape the cheesecloth over the top of the turkey. Roast per your recipe, replenishing the moistness of the cheesecloth once or twice. About 20 minutes before the bird is done, remove the cloth, which will be browned. Your turkey will look and taste mahvelous, dahlink.

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Sweet Potatoes: I'm rather weary of 'sweet' sweet potato recipes (HATE the marshmallows). If I want sweet, I'll make it for dessert, not as a side. Any recommendations for savory recipes?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I love sweet potatoes and I NEVER add sugar -- they're sweet enough on their own. A simple way to prepare them is to roast until soft. Scoop out insides and mash with sour cream, salt, pepper and diced csallions. It's easy and delicious, my favorite combo of recipe adjectives!

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Fairfax, Va. - Do Ahead Mashed Potatoes : Is it o.k. to make the mashed potatoes the night before and then reheat (microwave) on Thanksgiving Day?

Joe Yonan: Sure. Mashed potatoes can sometimes dry out when cooked in advance, but there are ways to prevent and compensate. After making them and cooling, pour a little more of your dairy of choice on top and cover and refrigerate. When you microwave, you can stir in the extra dairy when it's hot, and you should be good to go. You might taste again for seasoning, too.

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Silver Spring, Maryland: Your recent article on a "green" Thanksgiving was telling. I (and my family) are to assume guilt for a non-"sustainable" Thanksgiving, right? I/we need to be aware of the carbon footprint of our entire Thanksgiving meal.

Well, exactly what is the carbon footprint of the entire Washington Post corporation? I mean, you still print on paper, which eats up trees and resources, and you publish electronically, which requires the carbon output to support your servers.

If you really care about the environment, stop lecturing me over a dang turkey, and shut down your corporation. Think of the gas you will save staying the heck home.

You are hypocrites. And until the Post ceases operations, you have no right lecturing anyone on their carbon footprints.

If you were not hand-wringing moral cowards, you would quit your job and demand the Post close for good of the planet.

Joe Yonan: You know, you're so right. I can't believe we didn't think of this before! All media -- in fact, all communication businesses -- should really shut down, and we really should just try to get the message out about environmental, food and other issues by smoke signal (but only as long as we can do so with deforestation, naturally. Maybe we could burn bamboo...).

Actually, now that I think of it, I'll not only get a memo right upstairs about the corporate shutdown idea, but I'm thinking that maybe I'll suggest to my friends and family that we should all commit suicide as a way to reduce our carbon footprint to zero. That's the only way, you know, and until we all do that we have no right to mention anything about environmental responsibility.

Seriously, though, you felt lectured to by a graphic whose introductory text said, "There isn't yet a definitive answer to what makes a green Thanksgiving. But knowing some basic strategies can help you make informed choices."? I'm sorry that your Thanksgiving dinner includes a healthy portion of bitterness.

Bonnie Benwick: Silver Spring, I think Joe forgot to add, Have the HAPPIEST of Thanksgivings (provided you can shake off our Nov. 23 edition).

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Help?: Can you help me find a recipe for a shrimp appetizer that's not too fattening? I am trying to move beyond shrimp cocktail and bacon wrapped shrimp. Thanks!

David Hagedorn: I plan to make this dip Nora Ephron published on Huffington Post (and attributed to someone else). It sounds great to me and would be lovely made with shrimp and or lobster and or crab... or all three. I plan to make it and call it "David's Crab Dip."

Crab Dip

In a large bowl mix 3 TB tomato paste with 1 TB honey. Then whisk in 3/4 cup mayonnaise, 2 TB chopped chives, 1 TB lemon juice, 1 seeded and minced sweet red cherry pepper (from a jar of sweet cherry peppers in vinegar), 2 TB lemon zest, 1 TB prepared horseradish and a dash of Tabasco. Then fold in 3/4 pound crabmeat and one chopped-up hard-boiled egg. Add salt and pepper and a little lemon to taste. Serve with really good potato chips.

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Poached in fat: I made a good deal of duck confit over the weekend and plan to take it to Thanksgiving dinner as an appetizer. I was planning on serving it on toast points with cranberry jam I made last night, but I think the flavors might be too close to the main course. Any ideas for another way to serve it? What about alongside a sharp cheese? I do know that the unctuousness of the duck needs something to cut it. Tart apple?

Jane Black: Pear seems like a good option. Or you could get fancy and top each toast with a little micro arugula and pomegranate seeds, which are gorgeous.

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Help settle a debate -- please!: Please help settle a debate! What is the difference between stock and broth? Someone was trying to tell me that it's only stock if you cook it for 6 hours, but I've read stock uses bones and meat and broth only uses meat (and no bones).

Or is there another definition? Thank you so much and Happy Turkey Day!

Maybe I'll make some stock (or broth) with the Thanksgiving turkey!

David Hagedorn: I think technically, a broth is a soup made with stock. How long a stock cooks is directly proportionate to the size and density of what is being used to make the stock. In other words, it takes a lot longer to make beef stock (big, chunky bones) than fish stock (tiny, delicate bones).

Maybe consider sticking to politics and religion this year!

Bonnie Benwick: Technically (as in Food Lover's Companion), they're both described as the liquid resulting from cooking vegetables, fish or meat in water. Stocks often use bones, particularly roasted bones, which adds much flavor.

The Food section opts for "broth" in recipes, based in part on the FLC definition and mostly for the convenience of calling for a product found on most grocery store shelves (broth).

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Over the River and Through The Woods: Please tell my uncle not to put dry mustard in the steamed shrimp this year.

Joe Yonan: Dear Over-the-River-and-Through-the-Woods's Uncle:

Please do not put dry mustard in the steamed shrimp this year. Over the River and Through the Woods doesn't like it, but apparently can't bring him/herself to tell you, so asked us to. We're not sure exactly why OTRATTW doesn't like dry mustard in steamed shrimp, and in fact it sounds kind of good to us, but we haven't had it -- or certainly not yours -- and don't really know what else is in the dish that dry mustard might clash so terribly with. In the spirit of the holiday, though, we suggest that you give thanks for a niece/nephew who cares deeply about food, and about not offending a cooking uncle.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Free Range

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Nuts in Woodley Park: Can we talk chestnuts? I bought some beautifully fresh looking ones the other day, but when I went to roast them, the tough, papery skin under the shell stuck to the nuts like glue. The shells came off cleanly after about 20-30 min at 400-degrees. That second skin was welded on. The inner flesh of the nuts was tender and sweet but I ended up throwing them away because I couldn't get that outer layer off. Grrr! What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!

David Hagedorn: Many of us have been through this... once.

What I've found is that you're never really sure how old those nuts are and they are a royal pain to deal with. I assume you scored the nuts first, right? Not that it matters probably.) This is definitely a good example of when it is better to buy a product where someone else has dealt with the tedious part of the peparation, like buying a pound of lump crabmeat. Trader Joes has them peeled and cryovaced and in jars. No fuss, no muss, no peeling.

Bonnie Benwick: Buying peeled chestnuts is expensive! I think my fingernails are just starting to recover from the first batch of chestnuts I did in October. The Cook's Illustrated method of scoring around the midsection of each chestnut, then roasting at 400 degrees, helped me slip them right off. I even watched an online video of someone picking up a roasted half-chestnut and pinching the closed end with a pair of pliers. The clean, skin-free nut pops right out.

Jane Black: I'm with David. And the ones at Trader Joe's are guaranteed to be more reasonably priced than the ones at Whole Foods, which I saw for $7.99 for a small jar. Ouch!

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Washington, D.C.: A little adobo sauce in the mashed sweet potatoes is fun and very anti-marshmallow in taste.

Jane Black: Sounds delicious.

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Arlington: Happy Thanksgiving! How much of a difference would using superfine v. regular white sugar and self-rising v. all-purpose flour make in the texture of a cake? I did a trial run over the weekend of a mini-cupcake recipe with "regular" sugar and flour instead of the superfine and self-rising called for in the recipe, and they tasted good but were sort of dense and muffin-y. I couldn't find superfine sugar or self-rising flour at my nearest Whole Foods, so any ideas on how to substitute for these or otherwise make cakes lighter and cakier? Thanks!

Lisa Yockelson: Regarding self-rising flour, generally this type of flour incorporates between 1 and 1 1/2 teaspoons of leavening (baking powder) and about 1/4 teaspoon salt for each 1 cup of all-purpose flour. If you have not used self-rising flour in a recipe, then the baked goods would, in fact, turn out dense, squat, and extremely heavy -- depending on the recipe (especially true for many cake batters), so you should use it as called for in the specific formula.

Regarding superfine sugar, it is available in one-pound boxes under the Domino label; it is also known as "bar sugar," for its quick-melting properties so essential in drink-making. Though some of my colleagues may disagree, I find it difficult to create the supefine granulation at home, using a food processor (or blender) to spin the sugar. It simply isn't the same degree of fineness. Superfine sugar contributes to a melting, delicate texture in some cookie doughs and cake batters, where it is also essential to create volume and tenderness, it is important to use it.

Good cake-baking is a reasonably exact science, and it does matter how the ingredients are chosen and used -- making cakes lighter involves the use of proper leavening agent(s), but also a thorough creaming of the butter and sugar, as the leavening agent(s) only work to expand the air beaten into the existing butter-sugar mixture.

Happy Baking!

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Silver Spring, Md.: I need a new 9x13" baking pan, and my mother-in-law recommended a Pyrex one. Which is better for cakes, Pyrex or metal? And why?

Thanks, and have a Happy Thanksgiving!

Bonnie Benwick: If you like to bake cakes with rounded corners, go for the Pyrex. Sometimes there are issues with dark metal and baking times... how many 9-by-13 cakes are you planning on baking?

Lisa Yockelson: My favorite 13 by 9 by 2-inch baking pan is made of medium-weight aluminum with perfect straight sides and corners -- it is made by Magic Line (Parrish bakeware), and is my preference for even baking and perfectly formed cuts -- nice even squares or bars. Overall, I find that ovenproof glass retains too much heat for most cakes and bar cookies baked in this type of pan, but others whose bake with them find them entirely acceptable. If asked to choose one over the other, I would definitely choose aluminum.

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Washington, DC: Made a recipe for Thanksgiving that involved almond paste. Now I have half a tube of the stuff in my fridge. It's pricey, so I don't want to waste it. Any suggestions for desserts I could make with it?

Lisa Yockelson: You could use almond paste in a macaroon cookie dough, chunk it up and add to a scone dough, or incorporate it in to a pie, crips, or crumble topping -- all with excellent results. I have also had good experience freezing the almond paste in small quantities, collecting odd amounts, then using them at one time in another recipe -- keeping the ingredient for a month without any significant loss of texture or flavor.

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Turnips: Do you have any ideas on how to incorporate three tennis ball-sized turnips into our Thanksgiving? I was thinking of a julienne tossed in with our simply sauteed green beans. It's just hubby and me, so failed experiments are ok. Must be vegetarian though.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Is sugar okay? If so, cut the turnips into bite-size pieces as you would carrots. Take a large frying pan, add a healthy dollop of butter and melt over medium heat. Add the turnips, salt, pepper and vegetable broth, water or apple cider. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover and reduce heat. Cook until turnip pieces are just tender, remove cover, turn up heat and boil away the liquid until it's just a glaze. Enjoy.

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Newton, Mass.: Any suggestions for a cranberry relish or side which does not use sugar, corn syrup, honey etc? I would prefer not to use artificial sweetener either - something spicy would be fine. Happy Thanksgiving and thank you for all the help throughout the year. Newton Mom

Jane Black: Cranberries are going to be awfully tart without any type of sweetener. What's the objection? Would agave nectar help? I think a savory, spicy cranberry relish sounds wonderful but you'll need a little sweetener to make a go of it.

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Davidsonville, Md.: I made fresh cranberry sauce last night, then put it in the blender. Now it's too soupy - any suggestions?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Cornstarch is going to be your new best friend. First, get that sauce heating on the stove. Take a tablespoon and mix with 2 or 3 tablespoons of cold water or orange juice. Add this mixture to your sauce and let the sauce come to a boil. If it doesn't thicken up enough, add more cornstarch (first dissolved in water or juice). This should do the trick.

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Woodbridge, Va.: Any tips for cooking sweet potatoes without boiling them first? Every recipe I've tried before for baking them into a casserole has me first boiling them, then baking, but they always turn out too mushy that way. I was thinking about making them this year like scalloped potatoes -- slicing thinly and layering them with butter, OJ, cinnamon, and brown sugar, but could I just put them in the dish raw? How long would it take to bake them?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Sweet potatoes are tricky. There are so many different varieties and sizes out there that it's hard to give exact cooking times and liquid to potato ratios. The best bet is to prick them with a fork a few times, place on a sheet of aluminum foil and bake until tender and liquid starts to bubble out of the small holes you poke. Now you can proceed with your casserole.

If you want to cook from a raw state, treat them like an ingredient in a stew. Cube the sweet potatoes and combine with spices, seasonings and a flavorful liquid added to about 1/3 of the way up the sides of your baking dish or bake. Cover and cook in the oven until the potatoes are done. You can move the pot to the stove to thicken the sauce if desired.

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Arnold, Md.: Make ahead questions! I don't want to leave too much cooking for tomorrow. Is it ok to assemble a scalloped yukon/sweet potato casserole tonight? It has cream and shredded gruyere. What about a maple pear pie with a oatmeal crumble topping? Thanks! I am getting a little stressed!

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I think you'll be fine, just keep the topping separate and add right before baking.

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Richmond: I found a great compromise for sweet potatoes that satisfy the sweet sweet potato lovers and the savory lovers too! Bake 5 sliced sweet potatoes, with a few pats of butter and 1/2 apple butter. I hate the syrupy sweet sort, but my family balks at my entirely savory recipes. This was the super hit last year, all camps very happy. I think originally in Gourmet...

Jane Black: One more solution for sweet potatoes.

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turnips: put a few in your mashed potatoes, it's like a very mild horseradish!

Jane Black: This is what my grandma always made. It adds depth to plain old mashed potatoes.

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Fork Follies: Can a salad fork be used as a cake fork or is that a no-no? No salad will be served but there will be cake and I don't have cake forks.

Joe Yonan: Of course it can. I think I might know one or two people in my whole circle of friends who have actual dessert forks or spoons as part of their plave settings. Heck, I don't even know that many people that have even a basic setup (matched, that is) for more than four or six. Things have loosened up considerably at the table, and especially if you don't have a salad, go for it.

Lisa Yockelson: Well, I have cake forks, and proudly admit to it. But -- gasp! -- I have also used FISH forks for dessert forks once several years ago because they looked so pretty on the table. I also have old-fashioned "ice cream forks," but, so everyone knows this to be true, dessert is my passion. Forks, too.

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1/2 apple butter: that should read 1/2 CUP apple butter

Jane Black: Thanks for clarifying!

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Emergency!: Please help. I have had a miserable kitchen accident.

My brand new Le Creuset dutch oven crashed to the hard tile floor and now there is a chip on both the inside and the outside. I haven't even gotten to use it yet.

What can I do to repair the chip so I can make use of my investment? All is not lost, is it?

Thank you!

Joe Yonan: If there are any engineers out there, correct me if I'm wrong, but I can't imagine any way to effectively repair a chip in enamel-coated cast iron, unless you're a manufacturer of enamel-coated cast iron products. Have you contacted Le Creuset? They say their lifetime warranty only covers "normal household use," and not "damage from abuse, commercial use or other non-consumer use, neglect, abnormal wear or tear, overheating, or any use not in accordance with the cookware instructions provided." But it's worth checking with them; I've heard great things about how responsive they are about such things, and just saw this blogger's account of a successful warranty experience. There wasn't a drop onto tile in this person's case, but still: I'd say it might be cause for hope.

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Retro: What purpose do electric skillets have other than being useful if you don't have a stove? I didn't know they were still made until I saw then in a store this past weekend.

Bonnie Benwick: They make THE BEST potato pancakes. The even, regulated heat is good for regular pancakes, too.

Lisa Yockelson: I totally agree -- I use my late mother's skillet, circa 1970, and a much newer one for potato pancakes.

Jane Black: I have to third that. I used one to make pancakes for 14 people and I was stunned. The first batch was perfect and so was the last. If only they didn't take up so much storage space.

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Mashed Sweet Potatoes: My favorite way to jazz up mashed sweet potatoes is with some chipotle in adobo. Smoky goodness. And butter. Lots of butter.

Jane Black: Here's a second call for sweet potatoes and chipotle. I think everyone should give it a go.

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Please tell my uncle not to put dry mustard in the steamed shrimp this year. : rather than super spicy Old Bay, my grandmother always used Pickling Spices. Lets the subtle flavor of the shrimp shine. sigh...

Jane Black: Nice...

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Arlington, Va.: So I've been asked to make an apple pie for Thanksgiving and I've never made a pie before. I'm a little nervous about it, but I'm excited at the possibility of doing a really good job and then living a decadent life where there are always fresh fruit pies around.

Where can I find a great recipe for apple pie that's easy to make?

A few more details: I want to make the crust myself, but I don't have a food processer. I have a hand mixer and a blender. Most of the crust recipies I've looked at tell you to "cut" the butter or shortening into the flour. Can I do this with an electric hand mixer? Or should I just cut the butter up into little pieces and mix it up with the flour with a spoon?

Bonnie Benwick: How about this Crazy Crust Pie? It's put together more like a cobbler, with a batter on top that bakes up like a crust.

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D.C.: How do you make homemade biscuits a bit fluffier? I used whole milk (due to a lack of buttermilk) and they were delicious, but a bit dry/dense.

Lisa Yockelson: Buttermilk certainly makes a moister dough, so you might try the recipe again using it. Depending on the leavening (type and amount) used, this may be the culprit that created slightly denser biscuits.

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Philly: Plan on making Parker House rolls and Chocolate Cream Pie for the in-laws. I would prefer to cook everything tonight. Do you see any problems with that? Any storage tips? In the alternative I can wake up quite early and bake away. Thanks.

Lisa Yockelson: Of the two items, the rolls would fare best made in advance and reheated gently tomorrow. The pie dough can be made ahead today/tonight, but for the best overall texture and flavor, it would be wise to bake and fill the pie early tomorrow rather than today. Nothing is worse than soggy cream pie -- after all the time spent in the kitchen, with good ingredients to boot!

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Stuck at Work: Wow. Joe is really snarky today! Have you gotten into the eggnog already? Cut it out because laughing at my desk lets my co-workers know that I'm not actually working. Happy Thanksgiving!

Jane Black: Joe was writing in from a bus to Boston. That may lead to some curmudgeonly comments. Glad it gave someone a kick!

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Boulder, Colo.: For the Le Creuset emergency - definitely give them a call. I had to replace a nonstick skillet I purchased at their outlet due to the nonstick flaking off. They were very helpful and although they couldn't replace my exact skillet they sent me a similar skillet. It was a very easy process.

Jane Black: Phew!

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Potato pancakes and electric skillet: OK, I know, it's Thanksgiving tomorrow, but since you opened the door, so to speak and Chanukah is next month . . .

Tell me more about potato pancakes in the electric skillet!!! I use my ES for breakfast pancakes (Alton Brown recipe, honestly to die for) and love it.

Does this mean I can forego oil for frying? I'd love that!

Please, please, recipes and tips!!!

And of course, Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

Bonnie Benwick: It's Hanukkah, of course you need the oil! But not all that much. You can do at least 6 at a time and unlike my usual skillet on the stove output, all the ones in the ES seem to come out perfectly. Thin ones are quite doable. I've gotten fond of sweet potato and scallion pancakes, but here's a different latkes recipe, if you're up for change: Celeriac and Leek Pancakes.

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Alexandria, Va.: A non-turkey question here. How would one go about cooking a 12 lb lobster in a normal/small kitchen with nothing larger than a standard roasting pan and 12 qt stock pot? I do not have access to a grill either... I was thinking of putting the roasting pan with water to boil on the lower rack of the oven at about 400 degrees, tossing the big guy onto the middle rack and holding the door shut. Not really interested in buying a turkey fryer sized piece of equipment for the beast just to use it one time.

I found this picture online to show the size of the beast next to a more 'standard' sized lobster. Have I made a terrible and expensive mistake? http://www.landandseafish.com/lobsters/12lblobster2.html

Jane Black: A 12-pound lobster!! I have to say I'm skeptical. Did you already receive it? Is it really 12 pounds?

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Washington, D.C.: I love turkey, but can't stand the lingering smell of roasted turkey in my apartment (why does it hang around for days?!). So this year, I'm going to grill my turkey on my gas bbq. I'm brining it, I've got a thermometer to monitor the temperature, and I'm ready to roll. Any tips, or is this just a disaster in the making? Thanks!!

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: The year we grilled turkeys was my husband's favorite. Use indirect heat (heat on one side, turkey with drip pan on the other.) It will be the best turkey you've ever had and it cooks fast. Only downside is that you can really make traditional gravy -- you don't have the same drippings.

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Fairfax. Va.: Do you remember a recipe for a pecan pumpkin tart that was in the Post last year? I can't locate my copy. Thanks.

Jane Black: Here's the recipe.

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Washington, D.C.: We're planning on making Julia Child's golden harvest rolls. I'm wondering if we can make the dough today and refrigerate it overnight, or do we need to make the dough the day of?

Lisa Yockelson: Though I am not immediately familiar with the recipe, it is safe to say that most yeast doughs can be made through the first rise, then refrigerated overnight before forming and baking the next day. I have also had good results forming rolls from once-risen dough, and refrigerating those in the baking pans (covered). The next day, the final proof, if not accomplished overnight, can be done at room temperature.

Jane Black: Thanks. Here come more baking answers.

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Silver Spring, Md.: If a recipe calls for equal volumes of whole milk and heavy cream, can I substitute (real) half-and-half for the total volume? We don't usually have whole milk around, just skim.

Lisa Yockelson: In general, yes, but there are times that it would not be desirable -- such as if you were making a custard or any custard-based dessert.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: What's the proper way to measure cocoa powder? Gently scooped like flour, or packed like brown sugar?

Lisa Yockelson: Cocoa powder, a dry ingredient, should be measured as you would flour or sugar.

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Cranberries without sugar: Try white raisins, golden delicious apples, orange juice and a tiny amount of orange peel. It is still a bit tart, but quite good.

Bonnie Benwick: Sounds like a plan.

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Spicy Cranberries: I ripped this off from Bobby Flay on Iron Chef, made it last night and it is really good. Throw together a bag of fresh cranberries with some water, bourbon, maple syrup, and fresh jalapeno slices (I used half a jalapeno and took out the seeds -- it was still plenty spicy). Let it simmer down and burst, and then I added sugar to taste, but if you want them tart then I guess you could leave out the sugar.

Jane Black: And another very good idea.

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Richmond: I rough-chop 1 bag cranberries and 1 orange. Add 1/2 sugar. Great tart relish, but you do need a little sugar. My recipe called for a cup, so I reduced it to 1/2.

Jane Black: Turns out lots of people like tart cranberry relishes. One more...

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Philadelphia, Pa.: Two points: first the stock/broth questions. Just a couple days ago, Alton Brown covered this and said that broths are made by cooking the meat of an animal and stocks are made by cooking the bones, with in turn imparts collagen or gelatin (can't remember which, or perhaps they're the same) into the stock. The result is a liquid that is thicker and has a denser mouthfeel.

Second, I'm making a cake that I've made in the past with whole-wheat pastry flour. It's kind of annoying to buy and I have some left over from the last time I baked it. It says "best by" September 2007. It's bug-free -- can I still use it?

Bonnie Benwick: Thanks Philly. Shouldn't Alton take vegetarian brothhood into consideration?

Bugs won't be the problem with your whole-wheat pastry flour. It has the unsaturated fat of the wheat germ in it, which increases the likelihood the flour may go rancid faster. It's best to store that kind of flour in the fridge or freezer, well-protected with another plastic bag or something. If you've had it at room temp for months and months, maybe it's time to pitch it.

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Bosque Farms, N.M.: Three cheers for curmudgeons!

Bonnie Benwick: They hate cheering.

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Arlington, Va.: Have you tried the Crazy Crust Pie? Do you think it can be made the night before? Maybe served cold?

Bonnie Benwick: Yes, I had a sample of what the tester brought in. You could make it ahead, and you could serve it cold. (But warm is nicer.)

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Alexandria, Va.: Oyster stuffing -- chop the oysters or leave them whole? Will be using the oyster liquor and some Madeira (and spices) with cast-iron skillet corn bread. Whole or chopped?

Bonnie Benwick: Chop.

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Arlington, Va.: I have a 5 lb turkey breast I'm cooking. I'm planning on making a compound butter to rub under the skin. Is there any benefit to applying the butter the night before or should I just wait until it goes into the oven? Thanks.

Joe Yonan: No need to do it the night before, no.

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Leftovers: Please recommend a cheese to melt over a sliced turkey and bacon sandwich. Thank you!

Joe Yonan: My vote: Gruyere for something nutty and mild, or a wicked sharp cheddar.

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Farragut North: Just wanted to say a big thanks for the great online features with the 4 different menus! (And thanks to Joe for chiming in from a bus -- this must a first, he can give cooking tips and traffic updates!)

I want to make some spiced nuts to have around for my guests before we move on to the bird -- am I too late to do this? Any recipes you recommend?

Bonnie Benwick: You're quite welcome. The menus were fun for us to do and allowed us to get more old Post Thanksgiving recipes into the Recipe Finder database. The cumin-cayenne spiced nuts at the top of my menu are quite good. Addictive, even.

But the voting for menus! Oy. We tried to wager, and then there was campaigning. Last time I checked Jane Black was winning -- with a non-American menu, I'm just saying.

Jane Black: Jealousy is not pretty.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Happy Turkey Day to All!!

Please settle for me the question of are these potatoes I am seeing -- garnet yams, jewel yams -- yams or sweet potatoes? Sweet potatoes are healthier than yams and that is what I want to pick up this afternoon. The store personnel are no help as they call everything sweet potatoes.

Also, I am making a pork loin stuffed with dried plums and apricots. Do I hydrate them first and how?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: True yams are almost only found in ethnic markets. It's common to find sweet potatoes labeled yams, way uncommon to find yams labeled as sweet potatoes.

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Re: D.C.: If you can get your hands on White Lily self rising flour, it makes all the difference in the world for fluffy biscuits. Follow the directions on the back of the bag. Seriously did not understand what was so great about biscuits until I moved to the South and discovered White Lily.

Lisa Yockelson: I am a fan of White Lily flour as well, but prefer to use -- and thus control -- the amount and type of leavening agent(s) based on the other ingredients in the recipe (such as buttermilk).

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Philly: Re: Rolls/Chocolate Pie

Thanks so much for your advice. I can easily finish off the pie in the morning. Now I have a plan!

Lisa Yockelson: You are most welcome!

The pie crust, assembled and refrigerated unbaked, will be ready to go in the morning, so you have some it accomplished today.

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Maryland: Baked my first loaf of bread last weekend. It turned out great, but I'd like to try something more interesting than plain white. Any suggestions for how to spice up my second loaf of bread? Thanks.

Lisa Yockelson: Whole grain flours and/or soaked whole grains add an interesting note to basic white-flour bread recipes -- and an appealing texture as well.

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Washington, DC: This was in Kim's column yesterday for those tart cranberries:

Cranberry Sauce with Dried Cherries and Red Onion Jam

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter 2 cups chopped red onions Pinch of salt 3/4 cup sugar 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder 1 12-ounce bag fresh cranberries (3 cups) 1 cup dried tart cherries 1/2 cup water 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Melt butter in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and pinch of salt. Saute until soft but not brown, about 7 minutes. Add sugar and five-spice powder; stir until sugar dissolves, about 4 minutes. Add cranberries, cherries, 1/2 cup water, and vinegar. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until most berries have popped, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Cool.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Serve at room temperature.

Jane Black: Thank you Kim!

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Arlington, Va.: I'm making an Italian feast complete with hazelnut cake. Where can a girl find bars of Gianduja in this city??

Thanks!

Jane Black: The Italian Store has it. 3123 Lee Hwy, Arlington, (703) 528-6266. They are open until 9 pm tonight.

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Nashville, Tenn.: o.k. -- not Thanksgiving-related!! Purchased Trader Joe's much-touted lobster ravioli. Now tell me -- does one use a sauce with it? What kind of sauce? Other hints about this?

Many thanks -- Trader Joe's Newbie!

Jane Black: Creamy sauces are nice with lobster. Tomato cream, saffron cream, herby cream. You could also do a simple butter and herbs.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm making a veggie option Leek and Goat Cheese tart that calls for Bucheron cheese. I haven't been able to find any though! Any suggestions on what I might find at Trader Joe's that would be an acceptable alternative?

Jane Black: Bucheron is a slightly aged goat cheese so it's got a firmer texture and a soft rind. I can't tell you exactly what they have on the shelves there but look for something along those lines and you'll be fine.

Lisa Yockelson: I have seen Bucheron, from time to time, at Whole Foods, but have not checked recently (within the last month).

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Friendly Arnold, Md.: Wow, ease up environmentalists! I LOVE the Post. Subscriber for 20+ years with no plans to cancel. Happy Thanksgiving!

Jane Black: Hooray!

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Alexandria, VA: Another make ahead question -- how far ahead is too far ahead? We are having a belated Thanksgiving and I'm planning to make dishes on Friday morning for serving on Saturday night. I'm being careful not to add eggs and liquids to my casseroles until right before they go in the oven, but is more than 24 hours OK for cooking ahead?

David Hagedorn: That's no problem, Alexandria. I've already made everything for tomorrow, except for the birds (which are going on the grill).

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cheese over turkey: A really good, feisty Italian Provolone would be lovely too! But non of the processed stuff ...!

Jane Black: For those of us who have already moved on to leftovers, more sandwich suggestions.

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Please recommend a cheese to melt over a sliced turkey and bacon sandwich: I always use colby. The creaminess doesn't overwhelm the mild turkey.

Jane Black: 'nuther one.

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Carlisle, Pa.: I made some whipped sweet potatoes last night, and I refrigerated the results. I tasted some this AM and it is pretty lumpy! When I pulled the potatoes out of the oven they weren't exactly melt-in-your-hands soft. Will things turn out OK after 1 hour of baking (will bring to room temp first)? Or should I re-whip the cold potatoes tonight?

David Hagedorn: Do you have a food processor? This is the best way to make them velvety; otherwise, use a ricer, a food mill or push them through a strainer.

But... DO NOT do this to cold sweet potatoes, If there is cream in them, you run the risk of turning it into butter. Reheat the potatoes all the way through, then puree them, You will probably have to add some cream (warm) to them.

Simply baking them (an hour seems excessive for something that is already cooked) will not get rid of the lumps.

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Alexandria: Help! I can't find a recipe for what I have in mind to make. I like sliced sweet potatoes rather than mashed and I was thinking of baking a casserole dish (or two or three given the 17 people I'm having) of sliced sweet potatoes with maple syrup, lots of butter, cinnamon, a little nutmeg, and topped with chopped pecans - - but what else do I need in there? Brown sugar, cream,or something else? And how much maple syrup and/or brown sugar? Time is running out!

Lisa Yockelson: If you make a "syrup" out of the maple syrup, brown sugar, spices and butter, you can season the potatoes nicely and thoroughly before baking, as a syrup tends to be easily absorbed by the potatoes; brown sugar can remain slightly gritty, otherwise. I'd add the spices to the simmering syrup to bring out their collective flavor.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi! Happy Thanksgiving!

I have heard that you can cut down on the amount of butter used by using beer instead. Have you ever heard of this? Any idea what type of beer would be good and in which proportions?

Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: Answer back fast, we're running down the clock. Beer/butter for what, exactly?

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Bethesda Mom: Greetings Rangers -- and thanks for all the wonderful chats & articles this past year!

My question is about brussel sprouts -- they are not a traditional part of our Thanksgiving, but I bought a large bag of them at COSTCO and want to roast them. I haven't had great luck with roasting veggies, they always seem to go from raw to burnt without stopping by the mythical caramelized stage. Any suggestions? Also, would it be good to roast parsnips with them, or just leave it at one veggie?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: The key is to cut the vegetables all to the same size. With sprouts, that means in half or quartered after trimming. Be generous with the oil, salt and pepper, making sure to coat all the pieces. Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet without crowding. Roast at 375, turning every 15 minutes. They'll probably take about 25 or 30 minutes. I like to throw in a few garlic cloves. Good luck!

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Outskirts of Md.: My brother and his wife will be in Hawaii during Christmas so we're "celebrating" both Thanksgiving and Christmas on T-day this year (including the exchange of Xmas gifts). Should I decorate for Thanksgiving or Xmas or a combination of both?

Joe Yonan: As someone who tends toward subtler holiday decorations, I am feeling a rare attack of over-the-top-ness, and think you should put a Santa hat on your turkey and stuff the stockings with miniature pumpkins.

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Falls Church, Va.: I love these chats!

Can one brine a pork loin? Well, I guess a better way of asking is, does brining a pork loin improve the flavor, etc. like it does when one brines a turkey?

Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: And we're keen on you chatters, too. "Hoppin' John" Martin Taylor says he brines all pork except ribs these days. It vastly improves flavor and texture, he says.

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Washington, D.C.: Having a pretty small gathering this year, and in lieu of a turkey, we'll be getting a prime rib. For 3 people, how much beef do you recommend?

Happy Thanksgiving!

Jane Black: The rule is usually about a half pound per person. That's a small prime rib. I'd get one a bit bigger so you can have leftovers.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Get a three rib roast, anything smaller has a tendency to get overdone if you're not watching it closely.

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We are such creatures of habit: Just a report from the grocery store. There is no evaporated milk and very little canned pumpkin. Almost no canned pie filling. There are end caps of Chex cereal, but it is selling fast. Marshmallows (shudder) are also in short supply. I did not check the Durkee's french fried onion supply, but I suspect that too is hard to get. How "standard" has this meal become, anyway? Yikes!

David Hagedorn: Hey, what is wrong with tradition? I'd be chucked out of the family if there were no Chex Party Mix tomorrow (hmmmm.....). And this marshmallow bashing really must stop!

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Turnips again: Excellent idea! I kept thinking of ways to hide them in other dishes for some reason. How much liquid should I use? Is a quarter way up the pan enough? These are from our CSA share last week so I'm guessing they are pretty fresh.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: The turnips I got from my CSA were outstanding -- I hope yours are as well. Liquid half way up is good. Some will evaporate as vegetables steam.

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Beer in stuffing!: Oops! Got carried away, I have heard you can put beer in the stuffing.

Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: Haven't tried it, but I think I'd go with chicken broth (or stock).

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Pickling Spices for shrimp: forgot to say pickling spices are easily bought in the spice section, no need to mix or measure. I use one jar for a pound of shrimp and just dump it over them in the steamer insert.

Jane Black: For anyone eating shrimp, an update.

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Lobster again: 12 lbs... give or take a 1/4 lb. It is alive and kicking in Massachusetts right now and scheduled for a live overnight delivery.

So... to cook him...?

Jane Black: We're debating this here. So far our best ideas are to put it on a leash or marry it off. Back to the drawing board...

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'Nuther Cranberry question: My apologies if this has already been asked - or is just stupidly obvious. But I always end up with too much cranberry sauce. If I use only half a bag, any suggestions on what to do with the rest of the cranberries? Do they lend themselves well to breads and such if they're the fresh kind?

Thank you in advance!

Bonnie Benwick: Freeze them -- they'll last for a year. Or make the best little dessert: Tiny Tim Tarts. I just did a batch over the weekend for a friend to take to NYC.

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Chantilly, VA - Eggplant Parmesan on T-Day: In addition to the traditional turkey, I'm making eggplant parmesan for my vegetarian niece. How far in advance can I prepare the dish before baking it?

Jane Black: Make the whole thing. Pop it in the fridge. And bake it right before you're ready to eat. You can also bake it and reheat it.

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Hello, free rangers!: Submitting early with a non-T'giving question: I pulled my uncle in a gift swap this year. He's a dedicated foodie, and in addition to some homemade treats, I want to give him some local delicacies. I'm thinking some Uncle Brutha's hot sauce...what else would you recommend? (We're flying for Xmas, so it can't be perishable)

Bonnie Benwick: There are lots of local candies, Rocklands and Bangkok Joe's do sauces.

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re. half and half: It's for a pumpkin pie recipe...still OK?

Bonnie Benwick: Sure.

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Jane Black: Well, the timer has gone off. These birds are flying. Now, drumroll please:

Our first winner this week is "Poached in Fat," in part because of his/her handle; in part because we love a cook who's brave enough to add duck confit to the list of things to make for Thanksgiving. We hope you'll enjoy Bon Appetit Y'All, Virginia Willis's French-influenced Southern Cookbook.

Winner No. 2 is Bosque Farms, N.M. We get a kick of out of folks who can remain curmudgeonly (or at least cheer them) during the holiday season. So invite over a bunch of your favorite grumps and feed them from Rick Rodgers' Autumn Gatherings. It's on us.

Winners: Send contact details to food@washpost.com. Everyone else: Happy Thanksgiving!

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