Goss's Garage

Pat Goss has worked on cars for more than 40 years. He owns a car repair company that bears his name, has authored numerous books on auto maintenance, and makes weekly appearances on Motorweek, a PBS television program.

He visits right here once a month to answer questions about fixing your car.

For more auto advice and industry news, visit our Cars section.

The transcript follows.

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Bethesda, MD: Pat, My 2001 Saab 95 wouldn't shift into drive one day. The tow truck guy pressed the "reset button", the car went into drive and he followed me to the shop. The oil light and the ! light were on. The shop can't find anything wrong. What could be the problem and should I be worried for my safety (assuming if it happens again I press the "reset button). Thanks!

Pat Goss: This sounds like a possible computer glitch. What you did is similar to re-booting your computer. I wouldn't be too concerned unless it happens again.

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Lakeland, Fla.: Pat,

I recently took my wife's car in for a brake service. The brakes were squeaking a bit and there was obviously a warped rotor because there was some shake in braking. After the shop serviced the rotors and replaced the pads, they told me I needed to have all four calipers replaced or fixed because they were sticking. I never felt any sticking, and the cost was extreme. I allowed them to do the back two because they said those were worse, but I can't shake the feeling that they were taking me to the cleaner. After a few other recomended repairs were turned down I was able to leave. Do I need to get the other two calipers fixed?

Pat Goss: I have no way of knowing but I can tell you that I have only one time seen a car with all four calipers sticking. I would get a second opinion as you don't even have the right symptoms.

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Largo, MD: I own an '04 Nissan 350z. Have you/are you aware of any 'problems' that may arise in the future specific to this make/model? Also, if you're familiar with the material on the inside doors/dash - what's best to use to 'clean' those areas - ArmorAll streaks!

Pat Goss: Most of the 350Z problems we encounter are tire and suspension related and in the right shop quite easily addressed. I'm not a big fan of protectants on vinyl or leather but I do sometimes use a LOW SHEEN protectant. Clean all the regular product off and try one of the low sheen protectants.

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Yonkers, N.Y.: I had my brakes replaced (drums and pads) on my 2002 Toyota Sienna. Now when I drive the car it shakes. Today is the third time I have it back in the shop. They say they cannot find the cause. However, I still think it has something to do with the brake job. The tires were balanced, the axel replaced. 4 new wheels were put on the car, still shakes. Any suggestions?

Pat Goss: If it shakes without the brakes applied check Road Force Variation on the tires. There is a lot more to getting rid of a shake in the car than balancing tires. If it only shakes while the brakes are applied check for warped rotors --- often happens after brake or tire work because the technician uses an air impact wrench rather than a torque wrench to reinstall the wheels.

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Falls Church, VA: Dear Mr. Goss,

I have a 2001 Mazda MPV, with 96,000+ miles. The dealer says that the transmission is slipping between 2nd and 3rd gear. They suggest that eventually (soon) I'll need to replace the transmission, which will cost approximately $4,200.

My question is this: Do I spend the money replacing the transmission, or do I call it a day and start looking for a gently used mini-van, such as a Toyota Sienna? Is a new transmission going to give me another 5 years on the car, or is this one of those "beginning of the end" kind of repairs? I get the car serviced according to the regular schedule, and it runs reasonably well.

Pat Goss: Regular schedule is why you are right on schedule for a major repair. I always recommend a comprehensive evaluation of the entire vehicle before spending money on a big repair. That way if there are other gremlins getting ready to bite you you'll know and can make an informed decision. Just be careful as many technicians have no idea what to check. The process should be very similar to what is performed on a Certified used car prior to sale or about 200 item checked.

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Washington, D.C.: I have a 2000 Nissan Quest with a 3.3 liter V6. I just had the timing belt and water pump replaced as regular preventive maintenance.

Now the heater is only warm when I am driving fast. As soon as I arrive at a stop light (even after driving 25 miles), the air coming out of the vents is very cool (almost cold).

The mechanic has attempted to make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system and also replaced the radiator cap, but no improvement so far. Any ideas? Thanks.

Pat Goss: There is a special bleeding procedure for the car to get rid of air. If that procedure is not followed there will be no heat at idle. Second is to check operating temperature. If the temperature of the engine is low (actual measurement not by the gauge) replace the thermostat and if still no results check the new water pump.

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Washington, D.C: My service engine light came on and I took my car to Auto Zone to see what the problem might be and was told I might have a loose hose I would like to know how much this would cost to repair.

Pat Goss: Ahh life in the land of dreams! First you do not have a diagnosis, second there are several hoses, and third without a proper diagnosis it must be understood that there are hundreds of causes for the illumination of one, single "Check Engine Light". Sorry I can't help but free code checks have the same value as the money you spend for them.

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Too Much Oil Added During Oil Change: I have a 2005 Camry with 70K+ miles on it that I bought new. It has always gone to the dealer for LOFs and maintenance. Since the car is so worry-free -- I rarely check the dipstick. My husband and I checked it after my last oil change and it was over. I also looked at the dipstick a couple of months ago and, although I tried to tell myself it was okay -- I think it was over then, also. We took it to an actual competent Toyota dealer that confirmed it had .2 quart more than it should have and they drained and filled to correct point. How bad is it if a car was driven for miles -- maybe many miles with more oil in the engine than the manufacturer specifies? Please help, I am worried.

Pat Goss: If the engine were damaged you would know instantly. It would make unusual noises that would rapidly get worse. Overfilling can damage engines but usually only at sustained high highway speeds. I think you're probably very lucky.

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McLean, VA: Hi Pat: I own a 2002 V6 Passat. For the last three months, I've noticed the slight smell of burning oil when I turn my heat on, coming through the vents. I haven't overfilled my oil, and I've even performed an oil change and I saw no evidence of leaking. From researching on the internet, it sounds like the camshaft tensioner seal is a likely culprit. Would you agree? What are some other likely causes? Thanks so much!

Pat Goss: The seal is a likely possibility but the engine should be raised and thoroughly checked for leaks. It only takes a drop or two of oil to make a big stink so we often don't see any drops on the ground under the car or other normal signs.

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Outback, DC: Pat,

My 2000 Subaru Outback is experiencing some problems with the power steering pump. The car makes a sound like an airplane taxiing to the gate and it feels sluggish until it warms up and definitely when turning you can feel the wheels sticking. I recently had the head gaskets fixed and was wondering if in the course of that work something may have damaged the pump as this problem was not present before. Does this sound complicated, expensive to fix? Thanks!!

Pat Goss: It may simply need to be bled. Often technicians will remove the pump during a major repair and some of the fluid leaks out. This fluid is replaced by ait that may be trapped in the system. I would recommend a proper VACUUM bleeding procedure and then a refill. If it has been a while since the system was flushed I this would be a good time. But be aware if it has been making noise for more than a few miles there is proabably pump damage. Such problems have to fixed right now!

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Fairfax, VA: Pat,

First...I was saddened to hear in a recent chat that even shops like yours are facing challenges and you spoke of closing...that would be a great loss. It seems like the local shop that I use remains busy and I tell everyone I can about their work.

This brings me to my question which may be similar to what you are hearing. My F-150 needs some work and I am trying to determine what NEEDS to be done versus what SHOULD be done and the impact of delaying for 3-6 months. The front pads are at the minimum so I will do that, but I was also told that the idler arm should be replaced. The cost is around $250 and I can do it now if necessary, but would prefer to keep the money in my pocket. Is this a risky option?

Pat Goss: That depends on how bad the idler arm really is. If it is badly worn the truck is dangerous and you will have rapid tire wear. If it is just "going bad" you could keep the money for a long time.

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Lancaster, Calif.: Hi Pat, Happy New Year, I'm considering changing out my engine cooling fan for a thermostat electric control fan. i understand i will pick up some more horsepower, how much? can you tell me? the truck is a 97 T100 2.7Liter engine with a 5 speed tranny.

Pat Goss: Probably three or four at normal driving speeds and more like eight to ten at full throttle.

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Washington, DC: 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. Check Engine Light kept coming on. Mechanic determined that the car was running on only three cylinders, and the light was due to a bad coil on a spark plug (which caused misfire). Is this unusual?

Pat Goss: Unusual? Quite the opposite, coils are a common failure. Be thankful you found a tecnician that knew what to do.

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Derwood, MD: I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with an automatic transmission. It has 43,000 and I just flushed the transmission for the second time (the first was at 19,000 miles). Prior to the flush the fluid has a dark almost black color. The warranty is still in effect and I was wondering if I should have the transmission looked at by the dealer before the warranty expires? This is the first car that has required this frequent a flush cycle. Driving is mixed city and highway.

Pat Goss: The transmission should be checked. Rapidly darkening fluid usually means excessive heat and excessive heat is usually the result of slippage or a clogged cooler or ???

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Bethesda: My daughter is moving to Massachusetts early next month to take a new job, and we're gifting her our 2003 Honda Accord with about 50,000 miles. We'll be doing our part for the economy by buying a domestic replacement.

Given the rugged winter climate in New England, what should we do to winterize the car? The battery was replaced last fall, and the Michelin MX4 tires have about 10,000 miles. Oil changes have been every 3000 miles/3 months, and preventative maintenance has been by the book.

She's not very car savvy, so whatever we can do now to prevent problems later will help us to rest easier as she leaves the nest for good.

Pat Goss: Sounds as if you have done the basics. I would have the car checked from one end to the other for hidden problems. If the rubber parts under the hood have not been replaced it is time for new hoses and belts and it is absolutely time for the timing belt (not miles but years).

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Fredericksburg, VA: I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid, with approximately 80K miles. Have never had an issue until recently. Around Thanksgiving, the car sat in the garage for 3 days when I went to drive it, it was dead. We jumped the regular battery (not the electric one) and took it in for a diagnostic and new battery. Well this past weekend, the same thing happened, the car sat in the garage and wasn't driven for 3 days and wouldn't start, acted as if the battery was dead again. We jumped it and it started. But all weekend, I did notice a clicking and fan like noise periodically coming from the car. What could be wrong causing the car not to start if not driven for 3 days straight? When they did the diagnostic a month ago, they told me the electric, hybrid battery was in perfect condition.

Pat Goss: You need to have a technician check for parasitic electrical draw from the battery while the car is not running. They also should check the output of the alternator. Both are very easy quick tests. Oh and don't forget to have them recheck the battery as new doesn't always mean good.

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Columbia, MD: Hi Pat. I have a 1996 Honda Civic with 198K miles. Recently I've noticed some hesitation when accelerating, most frequently when the RPMs are low, but it happens at other times during acceleration as well. Any idea what this could be? Thanks!

Pat Goss: Check the fuel and ignition system.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Pat. My 2003 Ford Escape has been acting strange for a few days. When I press the brakes, it acts as though it wants to keep moving. In fact, if I release my foot, it does keep moving at the same speed. This happens in spurts. Needless to say the RPM gauge is moving constantly. It's as though someone is revving the engine and then it stops. I'm headed to the mechanic tomorrow, but please tell me this isn't something major! Could I be low on transmission fluid? Thanks a bunch.

Pat Goss: This is often the result of a dirty Idle Air Control. Have the technician check for gum and varnish buildup in both the throttle body and IAC. Cleaning is easy, quick and inexpensive but they have to use throttle body cleaner not carburetor or brake cleaner.

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Montgomery Village, Md.: Pat: Perhaps you could list some tips for drivers who haven't experienced the level of cold weather due today and the next few days. We haven't seen it this cold for a while. Growing up in Wisconsin, this feels like spring, but your counsel for Mid Atlantic folks would certainly be helpful. Thanks.

Pat Goss: Naturally make sure all of the basics are addressed: proper coolant protection, fresh engine oil, and strong battery. Also, proper windshield washer solvent that will withstand the deep freeze. That's about it.

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Alexandria, Va.: Do think there is a problem with my emergency brake on my '98 AWD Mountaineer? After I put the gear in park, engage the emergency brake pedal, and release my foot of the regular brake pedal, the vehicle rolls forward a bit before stopping. This is exactly what happens when I don't use the emergency brake. Is this normal, or I am putting an unnecessary load on my transmission?

Pat Goss: You have a parking brake problem. Should be checked immediately.

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Reisterstown, MD: Good Morning, Pat,

Happy New Year! When I had my car's oil changed recently the technician recommended I have the engine flushed. Is this really necessary? My brother thinks not, as long as I keep up with regular oil changes. I use synthetic oil, my car is a 2000 Kia Sephia.

Pat Goss: Good high quality oil flushes like the BG System are highly beneficial. There are areas inside all engines where oil puddles and becomes thick and viscous. The flush cleans these areas. But, never allow a can of flush to be added to your engine, it must be done with a machine

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Illinois: 2004 Chev Suburban. Check engine light on steady. Gas station checked code and said it was the mass air sensor. Seems to run OK. What function does the mass air sensor perform?

Pat Goss: The MAF sensor tells the computer how much air is entering the engine so it can deliver the matching amount of fuel. But keep in mind the MAF code does not necessarily mean you need a new sensor. That's because codes do not tell what is wrong only what is being affected by what is wrong. There is a test with the same number as the code that must be run to find the real answer which may or ---may not be the MAF SENSOR! Before going too far check the fuel filter.

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Centreville, VA: Thanks for taking my question, Pat. What do I need to do to replace the transmission oil at my home?

I went to a shop to replace the motor oil two weeks ago. They showed me on a paper with my transmission oil and new one for comparison. After I said no, I checked it by myself after I got home. I think my oil is not bad as they showed me as it is.

Pat Goss: If it is an automatic there isn't much that would be beneficial that you could do at home. Of course you could drop the transmission pan and drain a small part of the fluid and renew the amount drained but that could actually be damaging. Be wary of the place you took your car unless it is a regular repair shop as they may sell you a transmission flush (that's what you really need) but only perform a fluid exchange (a huge waste of money).

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Shepherd Park, DC: We just bought a new Altima hybrid, and we love it. This question is, however, about one of the other convenience features we have never had before.

The car comes equiped with tire-pressure sensors. Someone told me that because of that we should only get new tires put on at the dealer. Is this true?

Pat Goss: Tire pressure monitor sensors are delicate and proper procedures have to be followed when mounting tires. I'd be a whole lot concerned about the ability of the technician, then the name over the door. Not all dealers have good tire people, not all independents have good tire people. Consider looking at recommended installation shops at www.tirerack.com .

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Springfield, VA: Hi Pat,

I need to add about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles to my 2002 Saturn SL2 (100,000 miles). The dealer is asking $800.00 for piston ring decarbing to fix it. Is it worth it or should I just keep adding oil for as long as I keep the car? (probably another 2 years) Thank-you

Pat Goss: I would begin with a simple and inexpensive BG engine oil system flush, abot $140.00. We find this corrects about ninety percent of our problem cars that have sticking piston rings. If it doesn't correct the problem keep adding oil.

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Atlanta: Pat, my 2003 Maxima (85k miles) was in the shop for an oil change. I had requested full synthetic. The shop instead put 'high mileage' oil. My understanding is that type of oil swells seals to 'tighten up' the engine. After getting home, I saw the receipt and went back to have them replace with full synthetic. Will there be any negative ramifications? Thanks in advance.

Pat Goss: As long as the change was done immediately, no damage.

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Leesburg, VA: Hi Pat, thanks for taking my question, your chats are always informative.

I have 2001 Honda Civic EX that had the threads stripped off of the Oil Pan Nut at an oil change place. It leaks pretty bad...

Is my only option to solving this problem replacing the entire oil pan? It seems like such a "big" job for such a "small" problem (for lack of a better word). Also, it sounds expensive. What can I expect an Oil pan replacement to cost me?

Pat Goss: You may be able to repair the existing pan with a part called a one-time drain plug. This is a replacement plug that cuts new threads into the oil pan. It has a smaller plug in the center of it, so the main plug never again has to be removed, and no further problems. It doesn't work all the time, but most of the time.

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Silver Spring: Pat, are there any differences in durability & maintenance costs between four speed & six speed automatic transmissions?

Pat Goss: In most cases, maintenance will be identical but durability usually would be better with the six-speed because it is a newer more advanced design.

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Dickerson, Md: I have a 1994 Volvo which sometimes pulls to the right. It seems to correct itself from time to time, but something isn't right. Any suggestions as to what I should look for in having it fixed.

Many thanks.

Pat Goss: Check brakes and check the strut mount bushings.

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Baltimore: My 2009 Toyota Camry has been squeaking when I press the accelerator or brakes. Is this normal or due to the cold weather? I am not talking about the squealing you hear when you need brakes I mean squeaking like its need to be oiled.

Pat Goss: Not normal. Take it to the dealer, have them find the problem and fix the problem.

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Rockville, Maryland: PatL

I am due to get my 91 Mazda Protege tested in Montgomery County for emissions again and I am concerned. The last time it was tested it barely passed. Before then it had always passed with "flying colors." but since I do not drive so much, it seems to be a problem.

Since the last test I have had the PCV valve serviced. If I warm it up at highway speeds will I have a better chance. The last time I just went about three miles to the test center. I think I will see if I pass or not, before I spend a lot of money.

Otherwise it drives fine and I like the car.

Suggestions?

Pat Goss: Warm it up, warm it up, heat it up, make sure it is blazing hot before going to emissions.

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RAV 4: Hey Pat,

I have an '01 RAV 4 and it has been riddled with issues that appear to be common (check engine light coming on because of computer problem then found out computer was bad and eventually destroyed my transmission). I have about 150K on my car and just got a new computer and rebuilt tranmission, all other things in good working condition, how much longer do you think this car will hold up? Thanks.

Pat Goss: If you find a more competent repair shop it should go a long time.

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Atlanta, GA: Mr. Goss,

The SES light in my 2001 Oldsmobile Alero comes on intermittently. The associated code is the same one as for the gas cap being off. I replaced the gas cap weeks ago (the gasket(?) was worn) and have driven sufficient miles to reset the sensor.

The SES light is less likely to be on in cold mornings, but will always come back on if I drive the car even a short distance, turn off the engine, and then restart the car. Sometimes the SES light is the on cold mornings anyway.

My mileage does not seem to be affected by this. I am still getting 28/32 mpg. Do you have any thoughts about what the problem might be? Thank you.

Pat Goss: A technician can take the code, convert it to the test with the same number as the code. Perform that test and find the problem. A common concern is the canister purge valve.

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South Dakota: Pat, hello and good morning from the frigid Great Plains. I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe, btw, love driving it and would buy it again tomorrow. It has electric seats and seat warmers. I started it yesterday morning and my seats won't move and alas the seat warmers won't turn on. This has happened only once before, last winter when we were experiencing the same frigid temps. Do you have any suggestions?

Pat Goss: Check the wire connector under the seat and the body control module.

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Washington, D.C.: Pat, I've got a 10-year-old German (automatic) sedan that recently revs up to 1000 RPM when in park, neutral and sometimes when the brake is engaged (for i.e. at a traffic light). What could this be attributed to? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Check for gum and varnish in the throttle body and on the idle air control. Most idle problems are caused by dirty components.

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Baltimore, Maryland: Pat,

Thanks as always for the chats.

The driver's side power window on my 1996 Infiniti G20 sticks going up (but goes down just fine). Is this a simple problem or a big one?

Pat Goss: Check the adjustment of the window channels and the condition of the inserts in the channels.

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Boston: I've a front left tire rod replace 3 times in my 1998 Grond Cherokee. Other than the main user is my 19 year old son, my mechanic is perplexed. Any ideas?

Pat Goss: Other than trying a different brand, no. Sorry.

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Philadelphia, PA: Pat,

I have a 2008 Hyundai Elantra that is less than 1 year old. I don't drive it very often as I live in the city and am a user of public transportation for the vast majority of my travels. What I have noticed recently is that if the weather has been rainy for a decent period of time and the car hasn't been driven in a few days that when I first apply the brakes they seem to be very "grabby" for lack of a better word. They are certainly different than when the weather hasn't been wet. The grabbiness lasts for less than a minute, all I have to do is apply the brakes one or two times while driving and they revert back to their normal feel. They are disc brakes all around and the car has antilock. do you have any idea if this is a common problem with brakes, is it something that needs attention or just something that happens and there's nothing to worry about. If there is something that should be done what might I want to suggest a shop take a hard look at?

Thanks for your advice!

Pat Goss: This is a normal occurence. When the weather is damp and the car sits, rust forms on the surface of the rotors. The rust causes aggressive braking reaction but a couple of applications rubs it off and everything is back to normal.

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cold weather advice: I would add, let your car warm up for a minute or so and then drive slowly until the engine temp reaches normal settings.

Pat Goss: Good advice, but not much more than a minute or so. Long warm up times are a very bad idea.

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Washington DC: 2001 Ford Escort, check engine light came on with code related to air/fuel mixture. Garage performed major tuneup (probably car's first, at 55K miles). Light came back on a few days later. Could this have been caused by the original pre-tuneup conditions, i.e contaminated sensors or something. Garage turned off the light, still off one week later.

Pat Goss: It'll come back. The things they did would not correct a mixture problem. They may have found the real problem when you went back which is often a $2 vacuum hose, but if they didn't the problem is still there.

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Herndon, Va.: Mr. G: What's your opinion of putting nitrogen in tires? Is it worth it? And, if it is, do you have to keep putting nitrogen in - no half and half?

Pat Goss: I am a very firm believer in nitrogen. No, it is not a miracle. The tire pressure stays within specification a lot longer and because nitrogen is extremely dry there are no corrosion problems on alloy wheels and tire pressure sensors. If you have to top off you can do it with air, but as soon as possible go back to the shop and have them refill with nitrogen. Also, look for a high quality nitrogen generator that generates nearly pure nitrogen. In my shop I use Nitrofill because of its purity.

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Capitol Hill: Hello, I drive a 1996 Saturn with 153,000 miles on it. I have been driving this car since I learned how (I am 27) and it has always been very good to me. Obviously it is aging. It doesn't have as much pep as it used to and I almost always have to add oil in between changes. Recently it has been making a noise that worries me. Usually it is at highway speed, and it's a windy whining noise that gets lower in frequency as I slow down. It then goes away suddenly. This has only happened a few times and in my experience, mechanics have a hard time figuring out what's wrong if the car doesn't make the noise consistently. What are your suspicions, and when should I worry about it?

Pat Goss: Have your technician check axle and wheel bearings. But make sure they do it yesterday.

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Ellicott City, MD: Pat, I own a 2006 Civic EX, and I've been very happy getting 34 to 38 mpg until a recent visit to the dealer for my 60k service. That very day, the gas mileage decreased to 29-30. I asked the dealer about this, and they have no ideas. I track my mileage regularly, since I've put over 70k miles on the car in about 2 and a half years. Do you have any ideas what may have happened, or have you seen this syndrome before? thanks!

Pat Goss: Not knowing what they actually did on the 60,000 mile service I would have no idea what might have gone wrong.

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Pat Goss: Thank you everybody. Appreciate your questions, as always I learn from you. And I hope I share some beneficial knowledge from my end. Until next time, please honor and support all those who protect us and protect our freedoms. And please drive gently. Pat

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