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Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, January 7, 2009; 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

For more restaurant chatter, join Sietsema's Table, Tom's new discussion group about dining experiences.

The transcript follows:

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Tom Sietsema: NEWS AT THE TOP OF THE HOUR: Dan Mesches, the president of the Washington-based Star Restaurant Group, tells us that the title for his forthcoming Italian restaurant and bakery at 15th and H streets is (insert a little drum roll here) Potenza.

The launch date for the dinner-only, 250-seat establishment, which Mesches named in honor of his grandmother, is March 2.

The restaurateur says Columvina Potenza instilled a love for Italian cooking when he was a child growing up in Buffalo, New York, and later, the Hudson Valley. Among other things, Mesches learned how to make meatballs and pizza from his grandmother, who also taught him that dandelions weren't merely a weed, but a food source.

"It's time for a revival" of Italian food in Washington, says Mesches, whose project follows the recent launch of Posto in Logan Circle and Baci in Rockville and the arrival of a new chef at Etrusco in Dupont Circle. "Everyone loves Italian."

Good morning, everyone. And Happy 2009. So ... are you staying in town or fleeing for the hills on Jan. 20?

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Arlington, Va.: I'm submitting WAAAAY early (two days and three and half hours to be specific!) because I'm desperate for your input. I'm taking my mom out for a very special mother/daughter day on Sunday and I want to kick things off with a wonderful brunch. I live in Arlington but we're catching a matinee at the Kennedy Center so I'm open to great brunch suggestions in either area. Thanks so much--looking forward to another great year of chats, reviews and articles! Happy New Year!

Tom Sietsema: The early bird *tends* to get the worm around here.

I'll give you ideas in different categories: Art and Soul on the Hill for food with a southern lilt, Brasserie Beck downtown for Belgian-inspired cooking, Firefly in the West End for a more traditional brunch experience in cozy environs and Tabard Inn for one of my favorite a.m. menus in Dupont Circle.

Thanks for the kind words.

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Lincoln Park, D.C.: I'm sure you've addressed this before but I can't find it in your archives. We're going to West Side Story at the National Theatre tonight. (This is my second time seeing it there; the first was 52 years ago during its pre-Broadway run). What's good, other than Old Ebbitt, within walking distance, not too expensive, for us and our semi-grown (23,19) sons?

Tom Sietsema: My first thought: Oysters on the half shell, maybe a salad or clam chowder, at the bar at Oceanaire Seafood Room. Closer still to the National: Bluepoint, a steak house with a varied menu.

For what it's worth, I saw the production over Christmas and really enjoyed it. (Do you know Spanish? For the first time, some of the scenes are sung completely in that language.)

washingtonpost.com: First Bite: Bluepoint

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Wet in Arlington, Va.: Hello Tom, y Prospero Ano Nuevo!

I was wondering if you normally prefer to eat dessert at the restaurant you have dinner, or you like to go out to eat dessert? Or maybe you're not a dessert fan?

I find that going out for dessert is more fun, say if you go out for ice cream afterwards, but there aren't a whole lot of cake/chocolate/sweets/strictly dessert places in the area.

Tom Sietsema: For me, leaving the table before eating dessert would be a little like a theater critic exiting a show after intermission. I'm obliged to eat the full range of a menu, in other words.

But I like your idea of extending the eating experience. When I reviewed Redwood in Bethesda, for instance, I followed one dinner with gelato from a neighboring shop.

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Washington, D.C.: Potenza - 15th and H Northeast or Northwest? Now that H Street NE is becoming a restaurant destination, it's important to specify which direction your mean.

Tom Sietsema: NW. Sorry.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. I just moved here from Chicago to work in the administration and I cannot believe how bad the D.C. food scene is! Do people here actually care about good food??? Except for a few places (like Central, Bread Line and Patisserie Poupon), the dearth of quality food here is depressing. I was expecting neighborhood after neighborhood of funky bakeries, breakfast parlors and authentic pizza joints--wrong! Now I am told that if I want good Vietnamese, I have to drive out the burbs. If I want good pizza, there's only 1 or 2 places. If I want a decent baguette, there's Whole Foods. Just seems like the high-quality food options here are few and very far between.

Tom Sietsema: Welcome to Washington -- but give the city some time to impress you (which it will, trust me). For inspiration, I'm linking you to my recent dining guide. Come back in a few months and tell us you love eating here. Promise?

washingtonpost.com: 2008 Fall Dining Guide

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Will Work for Food: Hey Tom, I just want to say how much I look forward to your discussions every week. I wanted to know if you are looking for an assistant by any chance? I am a young communications graduate who is looking for work. I would love to be involved and learn what it takes to be a true food critic, plus I love food!

So, if you are looking for a young, energetic communications graduate to be of assistance, please let me know! Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: I get a lot of queries such as yours, and believe me, I'm tempted to ring some of you up. Five deadlines a week doesn't leave me a lot of free time, you know?

But the way things work here, most of us don't have interns to assist us. And I don't see that changing.

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Arlington, Va.: Happy New Year, Tom! We are ditching town during Inauguration week to find snow and good eats in Seattle, Vancouver and Whistler. I see 2 postcards for Seattle and an old one for Vancouver. Do you and/or the chatters have recent recommendations? A few cheap eats, mid-priced, and special occasion places of any cuisine would be fantastic. Thank you!

Tom Sietsema: I got back from Seattle on Sunday. What a great food town it continues to be! I don't want to give away all my ideas, since I'll be filing a column on the subject next month, but be sure to put Poppy on Capital Hill on your list of places to eat. Jerry Traunfeld, the Beard award winning chef, is cooking there.

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Penang??: I saw a sign today on the door at Penang that says it is closed. Tell me this is not a permanent state of affairs.

Also, have you heard anything about a winter D.C. restaurant week?

Tom Sietsema: A voice mail recording at Penang instructs would-be patrons to call back later this month for new hours. It appears the restaurant is being renovated.

washingtonpost.com: Review: Penang

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Bethesda, Md.: I will be in Adams Morgan this Friday night for an art opening and would like to hang out afterwards with some 40 something friends. While I used to frequent Adams Morgan regularly in my 20s, I haven't been out for drinks and socializing in the neighborhood since then. Where should we go?

Tom Sietsema: The bar at Cashion's Eat Place is pretty civilized and so is the lounge at Perry's, bestknown for rooftop sushi in summer but where a discerning food friend reports having a very good dinner recently. (I haven't eaten there in two years.) Both restaurants are neighbors on Columbia Road.

washingtonpost.com: Review: Cashion's Eat Place

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

I read your chats every week, so first of all, thank you! In the four years I've lived in the District, they've helped me out numerous times!

Now, for my question: A friend recently returned from a long campaign and we are meeting for dinner on the U Street corridor. We're both in our mid-twenties and money is somewhat of an issue. Where could we go for a great dinner, where we will actually be able to hear each other, and spend about $25-30 per person including one drink?

Tom Sietsema: Etete, the very good Ethiopian restaurant on 9th St., should be your aim.

washingtonpost.com: Etete

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NWDC: In an effort to avoid the prospective downtown D.C. crush over Inaugural weekend, I am thinking of taking guests to dinner in Bethesda. Something a little formal (tablecloths), reasonably quiet and not a chain. Suggestions? I just don't know the Bethesda dining scene very well.

Tom Sietsema: Off the top of my head, I'm thinking Assaggi, Grapeseed, Passage to India, Tavira and Praline might all deliver the goods.

washingtonpost.com: 2006 Review: Praline

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Comet: Hi, I've seen you rave about Comet on Connecticut Ave., but I went there about a month ago and just wasn't so impressed. It was extremely expensive with uncomfortable seats. Is there something that I am missing?

Tom Sietsema: The seats are hard, it's true, but I don't see Comet as a place to linger for hours on end. What did you order? I think Comet, given its good ingredients, is a good value.

washingtonpost.com: 2008 Dining Guide: Comet Ping Pong

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Richmond, Va.: When are you going to come to Richmond?

Tom Sietsema: Give me three delicious reasons to visit and I'll tell you. (I LIKE Richmond, by the way.)

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Penn Quarter, D.C.: Hi Tom- Happy New Year! Any resolutions? Just wondering if you ever do any "casual" eating out. For instance, I've been invited to a relaxed evening out with my siblings to the Buffalo Wing Factory in Ashburn. I'm sure the recommendation is to get the wings (!!!), but wondering if you have a favorite type of sauce with your wings, do you ever go out for wings, etc.

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I LOVE wings. Some of my favorite places to eat them are Tonic near GW University; the aforementioned Comet; Vaso's, a Greek restaurant in Alexandria; and Urban Barbecue in Rockville.

Resolutions? Lose weight! I'm a porker these days. (Which means I need to limit my wing consumption to a single wing per meal, I'm afraid. But who's THAT disciplined?)

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D.C.: Hi Tom,

I have a gift certificate that's good at any of the Passion Food Hospitality restaurants: Ceiba, TenPenh, Acadiana, DC Coast and Passion Fish. Which one would you go to, and what would you order? I'd prefer one of the DC restaurants, but I'd go to the Virginia one if it's really worth the extra drive. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Right now, and not just because I just ate there, PassionFish is my favorite in the collection. Ceiba would probably be second on my list, because I like the look of the place and the gutsy flavors of much of the food.

washingtonpost.com: Review: PassionFish

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Penn Quarter: I'm quite taken aback by the newbie from Chicago. Maybe he should try eating at our local restaurants before judging them. He's only been in town a week, and already he feels our food is not up to par. I suggest he turn around and go back to Chicago.

Tom Sietsema: I guess Obama needs him (or her)!

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom! After reading your review for the Source, I am definitely excited to try it. However, it seems like you were much more impressed by the appetizers than the entrees. If I were to have dinner at the Source with my partner, and we collectively ordered only one entree and two or three appetizers, do you think that the restaurant frowns upon this? Will we endure dirty looks from our waiter? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Anyone who eats out with regularity knows that appetizers tend to outshine main courses, or at least be more interesting. And the new frugality has seen lots of us order and eat differently in restaurants. I think The Source would be happy to see ... filled seats.

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Penang alternative: I am in no way connected with them, just a long-time fan, but if the person wanting to go to Penang wants to try out somewhere new might try out Malaysia Kopitiam right around the corner. Totally different vibe but nice place and tasty.

Tom Sietsema: I concur.

washingtonpost.com: Malaysia Kopitiam

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Oysters in Seattle?: Any place in particular that you'd steer me to for bivalves in my upcoming visit? The previous chats and post cards don't address that issue specifically.

Tom Sietsema: Elliott's on the waterfront is terrific. Go around 3 p.m. for their happy hour deal, when the bivalves are something like 50 cents each (and go up 20 cents after every 30 minutes).

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Chevy Chase, Md.: Hey Tom,

I'm taking my girlfriend out for a birthday dinner at Makoto. I don't really like sushi, and don't eat seafood. Will there be steak or any other kind of non-oceanic dishes?

Tom Sietsema: What a gentlemen!

You might want to reconsider your game plan, however, or eat ahead of dinner at Makoto, because the tasting dinner is stocked with fish and seafood. I recall a single meat course, but otherwise it's all about ingrediets from the water.

Maybe you can call ahead and discuss non-surf options with the chef? It sure beats not eating a very expensive dinner.

washingtonpost.com: Review: Makoto

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Cafe Du Parc at the Willard before West Side Story: That's where I went and shared a cheese plate, another snack, a dessert and wine-perfect before the theatre and just down the street. Enjoy the show, it was great!

Tom Sietsema: Great suggestion.

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Alexandria, VA: Tom, how much longer until the 2009 Dining Guide comes out?

Tom Sietsema: Believe it or not, I already have my theme decided! But you'll have to wait for the actual reviews, which are published in ... October.

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Arlington: Dear Tom, with Citronelle moving out of Washington, Laboritorio apparently returning (after all the rumors in the past years I'll beleive it when I see it), the table in the kitchen of Teatro, Komi, Eve tasting room and Cityzen.........In your opinion which of them will be the most creative and shocking value to bring out of town guests in 2009?

Tom Sietsema: Hold on a minute! Who said Citronelle was leaving town? The rumor is *not* true, according to well-placed sources.

The return of the Laboratorio,on the other hand, seems to be right on track (Tom types with his fingers crossed).

It's too soon to know which high-end restaurant will dazzle us the most, but I look forward to monitoring their cooking.

washingtonpost.com: Dish: Roberto Donna and the Return of Galileo

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NW, DC: Hi Tom:::: Happy 2009! quick and simple question what is new and good for the new year???

Tom Sietsema: Here's what I'm looking forward to checking out: the revamped Bombay Club downtown ... Inox, the Tysons Corner restaurant with co-chefs Jon Mathieson and Jonathan Krinn, late of 2941 ... a second, third and maybe fourth dinner at Bourbon Steak in Georgetown ... Gillian Clark's new ventures in Maryland ... Jackson's Mighty Fine Food in Reston ... the list is a long one, actually.

washingtonpost.com: Today's First Bite: Bourbon Steak

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Washington, DC: Perhaps Chicago is not aware of President-elect's Obama's reputation as No Drama Obama. Also, that person should be too busy to go out to eat!

Tom Sietsema: She or he better get used to the White House Mess (that's the dining hall for the executive staff I'm referring to, not the state of current affairs).

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Arlington, Va.: I know it was only a First Bite, but can you give us non-kid-having folks a little more detail on Tap & Vine? Will we be driven out by the families, or can we enjoy ourselves as well?

Tom Sietsema: I think diners without kids can dine quite happily after the early dinner hours, or on Sunday at lunch. At least that was my experience.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite: Tap and Vine

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Restaurant week 2009: Happy New Year! I cannot seem to find anything on the January 09 Restaurant week. Any updates? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: My sources tell me that Restaurant Week will be held after the Inauguration this year, for obvious reasons. (Why hold a promotion during a time when dining rooms are apt to be packed?) Stay tuned for details as the event looms closer.

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Bethesda: An odd time of the year to be asking this, but where in the DC/MD area do you think they serve the best guacamole? Cheap or expensive (is that possible?), doesn't matter. I want to treat a friend who is obsessed.

Tom Sietsema: The dips at Rosa Mexicana and Cafe Atlantico get my votes.

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Washington, D.C.: I agree with Penn Quarter with regard to the newcomer from Chicago...Given the small size of DC, it is not unreasonable to have to occasionally go out to the 'burbs to find some good restaurants (I love Bob's 88 Shabu Shabu, which I discovered last year). Even so, DC has some great places if you look around - and it takes more than a week or two to find them. To tide him over, though, Ben's Chili Bowl and Pizza Paradiso are always good... (P.S. I'm not affiliated with any of them)

Tom Sietsema: Actually, I appreciate Ben's more for its place in history than for its menu. But the city is teeming with good places to eat that don't cost a fortune. I'm thinking of Kotobuko for sushi, Afghan Grill for the obvious, Mourayo for Greek, Nirvana for vegetarian Indian, Yee Hwa for Korean, Spices for pan-Asian ...

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Chicago?: The place where Scott Adams of Dilbert fame said he couldn't convince them that "chicken is not a vegetable"? Hmph.

Tom Sietsema: Ouch! Play nice, now.

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NWDC: Thanks for your Bethesda suggestions. Have done cursory check of websites and Grapeseed, Passage (where I've dined before and liked much) and Tavira all sound interesting. Especially Tavira. Something a little different. Do you have menu recommendations?

Tom Sietsema: Well, Tavira is one of our few examples of Portugese cooking. Go for salt cod fritters, potato-kale-sausage soup, a twist on paella and the fiery piri-piri chicken.

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A single wing per meal??: Remember what the great Colette said: "If I can't have too many truffles, I'll do without truffles."

Tom Sietsema: Great, now I'm hungry for truffles!

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Washington, D.C.: When will this 250 seat factory restaurant trend die?

Tom Sietsema: I should point out, the bar at Potenza is quite large.

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Chicago poster: Hi Tom,

Hope your holidays were happy and joyous. There are regional differences between all major cities, so Chicago shouldn't be surprised that we don't have all the places he is used to seeing. We do have very good restaurants in DC, and our own regional specialties. I grew up in NYC, and when we go back, we have pizza, mussels marianara and cannolis, which we can't get here. My son lives in NJ, and when he comes home, he goes straight for the BBQ joints. They just don't have them there. It doesn't mean that either scene is lacking, just different. If he wants exactly the same food he can get in Chicago, he can go to Ruby Tuesdays.

Tom Sietsema: Some other things Chicago doesn't have: chef Michel Richard; Jaleo (one of the best tapas sources in the country); Rasika (one of the best Indian restaurants in the U.S.); a mixologist as clever as Todd Thrasher of PX fame; a destination like the Inn at Little Washington ...

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Silver Spring, MD: Are there any must try restaurants in Baltimore you'd recommend?

Tom Sietsema: Charleston for high-end and the oyster counter at Faidley's in the Lexington Market for local color washed back with a brewski.

Running out of steam, and time, folks. Thanks for keeping the hour lively (I expect more on Chicago vs. DC next Wednesday) and let's meet here again Jan. 14.

Ciao!

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