The Food Section
of the Washington Post
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
1:00 PM
A chat with the Washington Post Food Section staff is a forum for discussion of all things culinary: food trends, recipes, ingredients, menus, gadgets and more. You can share your thoughts on the latest Food section, get suggestions from fellow cooks and food lovers, or swap old-fashioned recipes the new-fashioned way. The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.
A transcript follows.
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Joe Yonan: Greetings, nation, and welcome to Free Range, the chat that brings you recipes and cooking advice right at lunchtime, when you're hungry for it.
How was your New Year, and what's on your mind in 2009? What are your food resolutions -- and what do you think ours should be, as food journalists? Now's the time to think of reinvention, so give us any and all suggestions of what you'd like out of the Food section this year.
As for this week's coverage, did Melissa's take on the Asian markets make you want to rush out to Fairfax? (She's joining us today, so send all your questions her way.) Intrigued by Jane's piece about the guys campaigning for a White House garden?
How does the first installment of Nourish, Stephanie Sedgwick's new healthy-recipe column, strike you?
We'll have two giveaway books, as usual, to be announced later. First, let's do this thing.
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Vienna, Va.: Hey Rangers! Happy New Year! Really loved this week's articles! Since I work in the Merrifield area, we've known about the great prices of the Asian markets around here and as a tip, for those that want to see a few different markets all at once, drive down Gallows Rd between Rt. 50 and Lee Hwy, there are 2 H Marts (on 50 and Lee Hwy) and my regular spot, Great Wall supermarket. Very affordable and fresh seafood all the time! And most also offer ready made dishes, like our favorite bi bim bap at H Mart (on Lee Hwy) and the roasted duck and pork at Great Wall! Such a good way to be economical in these times and try new dishes too! Do you think with the way the economy is going, that Whole Foods will ever decrease their prices? I really do like their stores, just so expensive. Thanks again for a great read!
Melissa McCart: Thanks so much. That's great advice to hit up several markets at once. The Source Chef Scott Drewno also recommended stopping by Mark's Duck House on Rt. 50 for dim sum that's also near H Mart. . . Happy New Year to you, too.
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Asian supermarkets: Please forgive my ignorance but while I have bought fruits and vegetables, teas, noodles etc at these markets but I have largely steered away from meat, poultry and seafood (especially live lobsters and crabs). Am I so used to high prices that I can't spot a bargain, or am I rightly concerned about sourcing and storage of these perishables?
Melissa McCart: The fish and produce at Fresh Mart and Super H Mart looked fresher than what I've seen at other fish counters and specialty shops recently. When I asked the chef of Proof whether it really was as fresh as it looked, he said yes, since the turnover is so high.
That said, H Mart Corporate wasn't particularly forthcoming about sourcing when I interviewed them several times. So if you're concerned about that in particular, it may not be the store for you.
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Soy Sauce: Posting early since I must be away for a meeting... My question is in regards to soy sauce; there is a huge difference between the soy sauce you are served in good Chinese/Japanese/Korean restaurants and the stuff you can buy over the counter. I have tried numerous brands w/o success. What are some brands you recommend that come closer to the mild, not overly salty flavor that one most encounters at resturaunts? (BTW, I did read the article in today's Food section and plan to check out the one brand mentioned.) Many thanks!
Melissa McCart: Chef Karoum at Proof recommends a Japanese tamari and uses it at the restaurant.
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20851: Thank you for the fried rice recipe. Since my husband went on the South Beach diet he claims he doesn't like carbs (which he happily ate before that) so I need to be more creative in serving them. Do you have a good recipe for wheat berries? Everything I see is for salads and I am looking for side dishes. I am looking forward to the rest of the series. Maybe both of us can improve our eating habits.
Bonnie Benwick: You're welcome.
Soak the wheat berries overnight, if you can. Cook 2 cups of wheat berries in 4 1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil, then cover and cook over medium-low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, or until they are tender (starchy, soft centers). Check and add water as needed. Drain well; return to the hot empty pot (off the heat), cover and let sit to sort of steam and plump them.
Then you can add onions, herbs, spices, roasted vegetables, whatever.
And you can freeze the cooked wheat berries for about 3 months.
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Ashburn, Va.: Submitting early...
I love the Dinner in Minutes recipe this week! It looks completely adaptable to individual tastes and is a nice, basic, hearty meal. I have this mindset that any kind of instant brown rice does not have the nutritional impact of regular brown rice. Is this the case or are the differences not that great? I would like to incorporate more brown rice into my diet, but it normally takes planning and commitment to cook it.
P.S.: I was bugging you all a few weeks ago about roasting duck. I tried the WP recipe and while the skin and breasts were perfect, the legs/thighs were a bit tough and dry. And as a bonus, I got at least 1/3 cup of rendered duck fat out of it. Yum!
Bonnie Benwick: Hi Ashburn. I was surprised by how much I liked the dish. It's almost a throwback to times of tuna casserole, but the balsamic vinegar provides some zip, and there are multiple textures to keep things interesting.
The Minute brand quick brown rice has all the fiber and protein of the longer-cooking stuff, so don't you worry. Lorna Sass has certainly done her homework as far as whole grains go.
As for the duck, :(. Maybe they could head to Confitville.
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Butter: My husband's family always left their butter (real, not margarine) on the counter so it is spreadable. Now I've fallen into the habit even though I am a fanatic about defrosting meat safely and this room temp butter doesn't seem like it should be a safe practice. It's never tasted rancid. A quick web search is mixed about the practice -- what are your views?
Jane Black: Most of my Irish and English friends leave butter out for that reason as well. And no one has died yet. Americans are fanatical about refrigerating everything. And while butter will undoubtedly be 100% safe and last longer in the fridge, I think you'll be fine if you leave it out. For more information on this, check out this advice from food safety expert Doug Holt.
Joe Yonan: Don't forget this. My sister uses one and swears by it.
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Rockville: What's the best way to store things like flour, sugar, etc.? Currently, I take them in their original bags and stick them in big Ziploc bags to keep from getting buggy. But there has to be a better way. Suggestions? Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: I use squarish, clear Lexan containers with snug-fitting lids that I found at a restaurant supply store (and they are not expensive). They come in lots of different sizes and stack well. I cut out the label of the sugar or particular flour and slide that inside along one of the sides of the container so I can tell at a glance what's inside (and when I'm feeling particularly on top of things, I write the date on that label, too).
For long-term flour storage, the Ziploc bag and freezer are good bets. And if you have any whole-wheat flours, they're best stored in the freezer or fridge.
Jane Black: One other note, I recently bought all-purpose flour that comes in a bag with a zip closure. Handy if you can find it. (I found mine at Safeway.)
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Cleveland, Ohio: Is there a benefit to using whole canned tomatoes versus diced canned tomatoes? I made a ragu last night that called for whole, but then I had to break up the tomatoes so they were, in effect, diced. I wondered why the recipe didn't call for diced tomatoes in the first place.
Jane Black: Diced tomatoes (I think) have peel. The whole canned tomatoes are peeled so maybe that was the difference. Bonnie also thinks that the whole ones may be more juicy (you know how they explode when you break them up). My main advice is to look carefully at the can and make sure they're not pre-spiced or salted. So many of those have weird, off-flavors. I'd rather add spice myself.
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Washington, D.C.: Do you have any suggestions for how to make rice for one? I find the rice tends to soak up the water before it's become tender. Do I just need to add more water? I typically use basmati or jasmati rice.
Joe Yonan: The key is the size of the pot: To make for one, you can use the same proportions, but just use a very small pot. (And a very low flame.) Of course, keep in mind that rice also freezes very well, so you can make enough for 4 servings, and then put the other three portions in three zip-top bags, pressing out the extra air, freeze, and then in the morning transfer from freezer to fridge. When you come home, it'll be ready to use.
Then, of course, you need a recipe for what to do with that leftover rice, don't you? Hmm...
might you find one?
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Washington, D.C.: Happy Wednesday! I need a new frypan, and was wondering if you could recommend one or two. The Teflon coating is coming off the one I consider my "go-to" for most things, and I don't want to poison myself or others. I'd like it to be all-purpose but, importantly, it should be good for making Spanish tortilla (so sloped sides and not-too-heavy would be good). I'm willing to go high-end, given that this will be my day-to-day pan and I cook a lot, but inexpensive is always good. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Joe Yonan: I have two suggestions: I love my Swiss Diamond nonstick fry pan, but I've also used and liked the T-Fal pan (Saveur recommends the latter in its annual 100 list). Both of them use materials that are more fully bonded to the base metal than the Teflon pans, so they resist scratching and can handle metal utensils. No flaking.
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Greenbelt, Md.: How would I use Korean chestnuts with short ribs and rice? Am I suppose to toss them while the ribs braise, or are they added to the rice?
Melissa McCart: Heather Choi said she adds hers to the rice, but I would imagine you can do either.
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Arlington, Va.: So Mark Bittman at Your Competitor recommends buying tomato paste in a tube, rather than a can. I used to do this but have had a hard time finding it in the past year or so. (It used to be by the pasta sauces at Giant and Shoppers but has disappeared.) Can you or the chatters help me find places (N.Va. preferred, but will travel) that stock tomato paste in a tube?
washingtonpost.com: Rodman's on Wisconsin Ave near Friendship Heights! - Elizabeth
Bonnie Benwick: The Italian Store on Lee Highway in Arlington carries it, too. And you can order in bulk online.
The tubed stuff is more expensive, as some of Bittman's fans have pointed out today. Tomato paste is another very freezable kitchen ingredient, though.
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Washington, D.C.: A question for Jason - do you have any suggestions for cocktails that incorporate whiskey? My standard is 7-and-7, but I'm looking for something a bit more elaborate. Manhattans are a bit strong for my taste, but I do like Old Fashioneds or something along those lines.
Joe Yonan: Here's what Mr. Spirits sez:
"I'm happy to hear you're interested in upgrading from the 7-and-7 -- made with Seagram's 7 blended Canadian whiskey and 7-Up. Though I'm not sure that the Manhattan (with 1.5 ounces of bourbon or rye and three-quarters ounce vermouth and some bitters) is much stronger than an Old Fashioned (usually with 2 ounces of bourbon or rye, sugar, and bitters). Maybe it's the sweet (red) vermouth you don't like? Or maybe you've been making the Manhattan with the Seagram's? If so, use a good bourbon or domestic straight rye whiskey instead next time. If you like a sweeter whiskey drink, you could try the
, which is equals parts bourbon and bianco vermouth (not to be confused with dry vermouth). Another option, if you like Old Fashioneds, would be the
. Be sure to use straight rye whiskey. Finally, if you like whiskey and soda drinks, there is the
that Kevin Rogers at Urbana makes, with bourbon, muddled ginger, lime juice, honey syrup, and soda."
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Washington, D.C.: What is the easiest way to cook white beans bought in bulk? I guess what I mean is, how long do you soak them and then how do you actually cook them?
Jane Black: That depends on the quality of the beans and how old they are. When I use Rancho Gordo's heirloom beans (which I wrote about here with recipes), I only have to soak them for a few hours, rather than overnight. But for most commercial beans, overnight is a good place to start. For cooking, again, it depends. (Sorry!) Bigger beans will take longer to cook than small ones but somewhere between one and two hours is about right. Check out Rancho Gordo's bean cooking primer for more info.
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Greenbelt, Md.: Hello free rangers! As part of my resolution to branch out into new foods, I bought rutabaga over the weekend. Now the question is what to do with it that's feasible for a weeknight meal? It needs to be vegetarian and preferrably doesn't also include squash, since that will take another trip to the store. Thanks!
Jane Black: I'd use rutabaga like a turnip: mashed or roasted with salt and herbs. I'm not sure how you could turn it into a vegetarian meal. Maybe use it with carrots and beans in a soup?
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Washington, D.C.: Happy new year! I'm a vegetarian and a soup-lover (heh, that sounds like it would go nicely on a match.com or eHarmony profile). I'd like to start making savory, vegetarian, low-cal soups, but I'm having a hard time finding vegetarian stocks/broths that aren't overly tomato-based. It gets awfully boring to have every soup be tomato-y, not to mention the fact that it makes the broth too sweet or just doesn't work with some recipes. Anyway, could you recommend a good vegetarian stock or broth that keeps the tomato to a minimum? Or, in case I get ambitious, a recipe? Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: Normally, I'd shoot you some recipe links. But you don't really need a set recipe here; you'll do better without one.
How about a mushroom-based broth? You'd start with water and dried mushrooms, probably a mix of them for best flavor. Or miso broth? There are many misos with complex, non-tomato-y flavors. Combine miso, water, stir and heat.
Or how about smashed stalks of lemon grass, with slices of ginger and garlic? Start with water...
Or caramelize onions, then add some wine and water.
And then there are our knowledgeable chatters, who will offer more suggestions....
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London, UK: Hi guys - quick question about preserved lemons. I have a number of recipes that call for their use - but, as they're preserved in salt, should I rinse them off prior to chopping them up and throwing them into whatever it is I'm cooking? or do you just use them as is, straight out of the jar??
Jane Black: Yes, I'd advise to rinse them before using them, especially if you plan to eat the skin.
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Dupont Circle: Hi Food Section staff:
I love to roast chickens. Have you ever seen the movie "Amelie"? A character loves to roast chickens and savor the "oyster". Where is this located? The photo on the internet that I've found doesn't help. I would love to eat it! Thanks!
Jane Black: Oysters are the two small, "oyster shaped" pieces of dark meat near where the back connects with the thigh. Lots of people think it's the most flavorful and tender part.
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Portland, Maine: Greetings from snowy/wintery mix-y Portland, Maine. I would love to hear suggestions for winter fruit salads to serve at a coffee with neighbors. I usually make some kind of cake and like to serve a fruit dish as well. But the winter months are somewhat challenging. I thought about a cranberry/grapefruit salad but, alas, cranberries are out of season. Thank you for your input.
Jane Black: A mix of citrus and pomegranate seeds would be nice. (Add a few mint leaves if you like.) You could also do something with persimmon, apple and pear.
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Arlington, Va.: My New Year food resolutions are to waste less food -- particularly, by getting more creative with ways to use the ingredients I already have -- and to eat more vegetables.
The first step I'm going to take this weekend is to thoroughly clean my fridge and pantry. Even with good intentions -- I commonly find that there are spoiling items in my fridge that were out of sight (and in turn, out of mind).
I'm also going to put a meal list on my fridge so I'm reminded of what needs to be used and when.
Any other tips for staying on track? For my resolution of eating more veggies, any good cookbooks or web sites to turn to for inspiration?
Jane Black: What a very good idea! You sound like you are on the right track. For books, I'd recommend two Alice Waters' cookbooks, Chez Panisse Fruits and Chez Panisse Vegetables. Each chapter has at least one recipe to cook/use the ingredient simply (roasted, mashed, sauteed etc.) If you don't like Chez Panisse, I'd just look for a cookbook that's organized by ingredient (rather than apps, entrees etc.) Then you can more directly hone in on ways to use up your leftovers.
My other advice is learn to love soup. It's a fabulous way to use up stuff in the fridge. (Even if you only have onions and celery, you can make stock and use it next time you have other things to use up.
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Old Europe: I finally found gulash suppe at Old Europe in Glover Park. I don't suppose you could persuade them to give you the recipe? Such a wonderful winter food. I lived off the stuff when I studied abroad in Vienna, Austria many years ago.
Bonnie Benwick: We'll try. Send your contact info to food@washpost.com.
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Calvados: I'm the person who submitted a few weeks ago about special ordering Calvados through the Montgomery County liquor stores. To recap, the store ordered a case of Dupont Reserve Calvados and stocked the shelves with the bottles I didn't buy. Another chatter asked at which store I placed the order and (because I'm daft and easily confused by interactive maps) I gave the wrong location.
So, if other chatters are interested, the Calvados should still be available at the Rockville store in the shopping plaza that also includes the Target.
Apologies to all and sundry!
Joe Yonan: Thanks!
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Storing sugar/flour: My mom always stored sugar and flour in Tupperware containers that had a good lid. I bought those OXO containers you see at Bed Bath and Beyond, the Container Store, etc., where you press a button on the top to release the lid. I feel that's a good way to keep them fresh -- or am I wrong?
Bonnie Benwick: Not wrong at all! But I bet I paid less $$.
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Garlicky Spinach and White Bean Soup: Is there any reason why I couldn't add zucchini to the soup? I have some extra that I need to use up. Thanks
Bonnie Benwick: No reason at all. Several readers e-mailed us to say how much they liked that soup.
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Leesburg, Va.: PLEASE HELP!! About a week ago there was an article in the newspaper about the 25 most used/asked for/best recipes of 2008. My husband inadvertently recycled the newspaper before I could get further info. I cannot find any info on the Post website. Where can I get a copy of these recipes?
Joe Yonan: Here it is! And I have a little Web-searching tip for you (and anyone else who doesn't know it). Using Google, type in "site:washingtonpost.com" and then your search term. So in this case that would be "site:washingtonpost.com top recipes," and it comes right up. I use it for lots of things -- the "site:XX" thing tells Google to search only that domain rather than the whole Net. (Similarly, for example, if you want to find that David Hagedorn piece about Rose Levy Beranbaum's pie lesson, Google "site:washingtonpost.com beranbaum," and boom, there you have it.)
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I have a little Web-searching tip for you : wow, you are multi-talented!
Joe Yonan: Aw, shucks.
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nuts for cake: I bought my husband a tin of mixed party nuts to keep at work. A month later, he returned the tin with Brazil and hazelnuts remaining, which he doesn't like. Any ideas what I can do with these? Do you have a cake recipe that uses ground nuts? Do I have to soak or boil the nuts first to remove the skin?
Bonnie Benwick: Hmmm. If those nuts are salted, they wouldn't be so good for baking -- even if you ground them. Maybe you could coarsely chop or cut into slivers and add to vegetable side dishes or to toppings for gratins and such.
Hazelnuts with skins can be roasted for 10 mins or so at 375, then while the nuts are warm, rub them inside a clean kitchen towel and much of the skins will come off. But I'm not sure that would still work with the ones from a mixed-nuts collection.
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Alexandria: I love that little can of chipotle chiles, the one that looks small, but when you only need a dab to spice things up, you're still left with over half a can. What's the best way to store the remainder? Freeze it? Maybe this is my mom talking, but I thought once opened, you don't just store a can open in the fridge. If I put it in a container, will it last a while?
Bonnie Benwick: Bless your mom; don't refrigerate in open cans. The chipotle chilies freeze quite well. I usually wrap them up with some of the adobo in plastic wrap, then place those separate pods in a single resealable food storage bag.
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Fairfax, Va. - Merrifield Asian store: I like the Asian store in Merrifield, their produce is fresh and well priced. BUT, the seafood area -- OMG. Does any health department ever inspect? Their products are dead, dying, or fast on the way there. The liquid, dare I think it's water(?), has been there since the store opened. Nasty nasty nasty.
Melissa McCart: In contrast, the Super H Mart in Fairfax is terrific, as is the Fresh Mart in Springfield. When inspecting the fish, you'd see the eyes are clear and the area is super clean, etc. As the chef from Proof had said, these places can be hit or miss. You have to hit it right.
But yes, Merrifield's fish section isn't the best of the area's Asian markets, by far.
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I love the mix of sweet and savory: so those salted nuts would be good in cookies to me! Sorta like pretzels in chocolate.
Joe Yonan: Sure!
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Rutabaga again: Hi again, just to clarify, I'm happy to have it be a vegetarian side, but it can't take 2 hours to make. I'm actually not too well versed in turnips either. There weren't a lot of root vegetables consumed in my house while I was growing up.
Jane Black: OK. Peel. Boil. Mash. Season with salt and pepper (or thyme or nutmeg or whatever you like.) You can also use half rutabaga, half potatoes for a smoother flavor. To roast, peel, cut into chunks, toss with olive oil, salt and herbs. Bake at 400 until tender.
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Cooking rice for one: : I learned (from the Persian half of my family) that you can cook basmati rice just like pasta. Fill a pot of water, bring it to a boil, add rice, cook until tender, and drain. It comes out fluffy and perfect each time, and you can make any amount you want. (We use this technique in Persian cooking but drain the rice when it is al dente because it is often further cooked with other ingredients in a more complex dish.)
Even my cooking-challenged brother can make perfect rice this way!
Joe Yonan: Yes, this is an old technique not just from Persia (which is where my roots are, too), but India, too. Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid's authoritative "Seductions of Rice" has a recipe for this that calls for steam-cooking the rice in a closed pot on the stovetop after boiling and draining. As you say, the Persian way often calls for baking the rice into a pilaf after boiling...
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Melted Butter?: Got a question while doing holiday baking that I can't answer. We melted a lot of butter, of the usual salted variety. Said melted butter was gaggingly salty on small fingers. Why?
Bonnie Benwick: Hold on. You're baking with salted butter? My colleague Jane Touzalin always suspects that most people do, even though all our baking recipes call for the unsalted variety.
As to why it was so salty, I can't authoritatively say... had salty solids collected at the top? was it particularly salty or off brand? Whose small fingers?
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Bosque Farms, N.M.: Thanks to Joe for a helpful searching hint. Because I was busy moving into a new house before guests arrived for the holidays, I was unable to read most December food sections. Using past chats for subject matter, I tried last night to find out what I missed with the WP search engine. I wasn't always successful. Your tip will help me out!
Jane Black: Hoorah for loyal readers!
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Blacksburg, Va.: For the person looking for good soy sauce: I've found that Trader Joe's Tamari Soy Sauce is the best I can find in any store. And, yes, that does mean a 4-hour trip for me as the closest Trader Joe's is in Centreville.
Jane Black: Tamari is richer/heavier than soy sauce and not exactly the same thing. Tamari is made by collecting the liquid which drains from miso as it ages. That said, I love it. If you want to splurge on artisanal tamari, I recommend South River Miso. It's $8.50 on their web site but it's a good size bottle and lasts forever. You need a $20 minimum order. But then again, I think their miso is amazing too.
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Woodbridge, Virginia: I have been experimenting with various lamb recipes as of late, and typically purchase various cuts at Wegman's. These cuts are labeled as Australian lamb.
Some of the recipes I read mention the use of Shenandoah Valley Lamb, however, online searches thus far have been unsuccessful.
I know that Fields of Athenry in Purcellville, Virginia is an excellent resource, but wanted to toss out the question of where I can find and purchase Shenandoah Valley Lamb.
Jane Black: The Organic Butcher in McLean has it often but not all the time. (They are getting some in tomorrow if you want it sooner rather than later.) In general, it's best to give them a call before you head over at 703-790-8300.
Otherwise, I'd search the producers at your local farmers markets. There might be a small farmer selling lamb.
Joe Yonan: Indeed, there's a great lamb producer at the Sunday Dupont market.
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Columbia, Md.: I love H-Mart!!! I shop at the one in Catonsville. Good article, but now even more people will be there on weekends! Good thing I don't live in NoVa...
Melissa McCart: Thanks for the comment! After a handful of epic visits, I'm a big fan, too.
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Most of my Irish and English friends leave butter out : they grew up in cool climates! We couldn't do that in the south. Even with AC, it gets warm in the kitchen.
Jane Black: Fair enough. Might not work down South.
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Bethesda, Md.: Early submit because of the weather. Made roast duck w/green peppercorn sauce for holidays. Have a bunch (hooray!) of duck fat from roaster. How long can it keep in fridge or frozen?
Have already sauted some potatoes. Just great!
Bonnie Benwick: I'm envious. Better freezer than fridge, unless you're dipping into it that often. Should last at least a year.
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Butter Bell: Have to give a dissenting opinion on the Butter Bell. I was exited to get mine but I put it away after a frustrated month or so. You basically have to keep it full to the rim, with pre-softened butter, for it to work. If you try to add firm butter it ends up floating around in the water. Plus you need to change the water all day long for it to remain cold. And you need to change out the butter frequently. Yeesh. Better off just leaving it on the counter, for all that trouble...
Joe Yonan: I hear you. Thanks!
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chocolate cake: I made David's Hershey box chocolate cake last year, and for Christmas made Nigella Lawson's chocolate fudge cake, which blew my family away. This year I want to make a really wonderful chocolate cake and expand my skill level. I love the cakes from Marvelous Market and Balducci's (dolly sin or chocolate decadent), but not sure how it's done. Any great recipes to share please? I envision ganache or chocolate mousse.
Bonnie Benwick: This is a killer cake, with ganache and peanut butter; this is a flourless torte with pistachios and cardamom.
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Lothian, Md.: Yes, there's nothing better than SOFT butter and the Butter Bell (Joe listed a link) is the way to go. One-third cup cool water in the bottom, an entire stick of softened butter in the "bell" and you're good to go. The instructions tell you to change the water every 3rd day or so.
Joe Yonan: Another view on the BB.
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Downtown, D.C.: Hi there! Does your recipe collection include slow-cookers? I received one for Christmas and have no idea where I should start!
Bonnie Benwick: Yes, and thanks for asking. A search on "slow cooker" yields 10 recipes now; be sure to check out our Jan. 14 section which will feature 4 new slow cooker recipes.
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Fairbanks, Alaska: There was some discussion of making homemade sauerkraut in this chat a few months ago... For me, it's a family tradition, and I took a bunch of photos of the process this year. I posted them online with directions and some tips, and tried to be pretty explicit with the tricks of the process. Since homemade sauerkraut is so much better than store-bought stuff, I thought people might be interested in trying it themselves:
How to Make Sauerkraut (Flickr.com)
Have fun!
Jane Black: Thank you, Alaska!
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Melted Butter, again: Well, it was a name brand butter and is the one we use at the table. Some of our recipes do call for salted butter, and the finished product certainly doesn't taste salty. This happened a couple times -- couple batches of butter involved. And my helper has very clean fingers when helping -- and tasting. I had to agree that it tasted quite salty, melted, but quite normal beforehand.
I suggested that the salts rose to the top, but the butter on the sides of the pan were equally salty. (And yes, when the recipe calls for unsalted butter that's what we use.)
Other thoughts?
Bonnie Benwick: Well, it seems that any time you'd heat up something that had salt, you'd taste the salt more than when the product is cold. I think I'd contact the manufacturer. If you still have the packaging, they'll ask for a number that's printed on it (batch, date, place of processing).
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Washington, D.C.: Happy New Year, well for the New Year I have to cut way back/out salt. I am not a person to salt at the table and use very little in recipes but I had been doing a lot of stir frys with soy sauce and other salty Asian condiments and making lots of soup with chicken stock. What can I do to replace that salt taste that I crave? Also, I bought some fresh black eyed peas from Whole Foods that were in a plastic container in the produce section and I would like to know if I have to soak before cooking. Thanks
Joe Yonan: I've long dreaded the day when the doctor tells me to cut back on salt. Knock on wood, the blood pressure's still fine.
Anyone who's done this, though, will tell you that your palate will adjust (at least somewhat), so that's good news.
As for strategies, beyond the salt-sub products out there (Hello, Mrs. Dash!), I would suggest that you develop a taste for chili peppers and the like, if you haven't already; a little dash of heat here and there (whether from a Tabasco-like pepper sauce or from ground anchos or chipotles) might help occupy your palate, convince it that there's still some fun stuff going on in your mouth. I'd also think about smoke -- from spices like pimenton, the smoked paprika from Spain. And then I'd learn to love acid: citrus juice, vinegars. Those can sometimes provide the bite that helps counteract richness and brighten up food.
Chatters, any other ideas?
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Falls Church: I did a tour of Asian markets a few months ago when someone asked me to send them a replacement blade for their Benriner slicer. There was a lot of neat stuff in the stores but I ended up not buying anything as I couldn't be sure that things would keep well during my 3 hour tour. I never did find replacement blades -- I ended up buying a whole new Benriner and throwing away the unneeded body. (I still feel a little guilty about that.)
A guided tour would be fun and especially helpful with those things not labeled in English.
Melissa McCart: If you head on over to donrockwell.com and do a search on Asian markets, you'll see there's some talk about Heather organizing one soon.
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Potato question: I have been on a kick trying to make the perfect hash browns. I have tried a half dozen types of potatoes. I first boil until fork tender, dry, dice, than start browning and adding my peppers and onions yada yada.
In your expert opinion, what are the best type of potatoes to use?
Thanks
Bonnie Benwick: The ones that are at least a day old and have been refrigerated. The less moisture the cooked potato has, the crisper your hash browns will be. I like using red bliss; Yukon golds are a bit soft for this application.
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Philadelphia, Pa.: Just wanted to share my favorite way for reheating rice: I get a wide three-quart pot and steam the rice with an impromptu steamer (usually just piling the rice on a small heat-safe plate atop a shot glass). I've always hated reheated rice in the microwave, but steaming it makes it fluffy and moist as if I'd just cooked it.
Jane Black: Fun tip. Thanks.
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Washington, D.C.: So I have a bunch of leftover chicken from a roast this weekend. I plan to make the Chicken Stew Provencal, but do you have any other ideas? There's a lot. Can I freeze the chicken for later use?
Bonnie Benwick: It freezes well. Maybe cut/slice/dice beforehand.
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Re: vegetable broth: If you make vegetable soup from scratch, you have vegetable broth! Carrots, celery, onions, turnips... toss anything in. If you've got an empty Saturday, this is always good to do and freeze for when you need it.
Also, there's always cream based soups which can be made low fat using milk and a thickener like flour, cornstarch, or even mashed potatoes rather than cream.
I also like coconut-milk based broths. Don't use too much and it won't be so terrible for you. I also think there is "light" coconut milk available, but I've never used it.
Bonnie Benwick: More for the veg broth chatter.
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Butter on the counter...: I grew up in Fairfax (hot and humid!) and we always kept butter and margarine on the counter and never had melting problems. Except that one time I put the butter tray on top of the toaster over to get it out of the way... It never even occurred to me until I was in my mid 20's that butter could spoil. I usually keep it in the fridge now but only for lack of counter space. I hate having rock hard, solid butter! Ruins the toast.
Jane Black: Clearly this is an issue close to many people's hearts.
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Goodrich, Michigan: I was hoping you could help me diagnose the problem with the olive oil and orange cake I made for my birthday this week.
The recipe called for 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 1/4 cups flour, 1/3 cup olive oil, 1 tbsp baking powder, orange zest, and salt.
After 20 minutes in the oven, the center started to bubble and brown, doming before it fell completely. I was surprised that it would brown so thoroughly even as it sank. I'm suspecting that the recipe should have called for more flour, but I'm not sure. What do the experts think?
Thanks for your help and advice!
Joe Yonan: Goodrich, can you send us the full recipe and the source of it? We'll get expert baker Lisa Yockelson on board to diagnose. Can you send it to food@washpost.com? We'll either address next week, or put it in the print section.
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Butter bell comments: I owned 2 butter bells and the problem is that they're glazed ceramic. Once the surface crazes (and it always does, especially when dipping into it with a metal butter knife), mold forms very easily. I found a way around this: Fante's in Philadelphia (fantes.com) carries 2 versions made of glass (one of these, the one I have, is glass and stainless). So far, so good. By the way, the butter lasts much longer without spoiling here in the winter as opposed to the summer.
Jane Black: Thanks for the tip.
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Philadelphia: Just be careful to keep your butter on the counter -covered- so that your pets don't get into it and start licking away - I don't care how well trained they pretend to be, it's too tempting a treat for most. Also, remember that although butter can be treated the same way as in Europe and left out, eggs cannot.
Joe Yonan: I hear you on the pet thing. As the owner of an incredibly tall dog with an incredibly long neck and incredibly long nose (and, as one colleague would say, an incredibly willful personality), I hear you loud and clear. Mister Red, are you listening?
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butter poached rib roast : I made a 8 bone roast (prime) for New Year's Eve dinner... OH MY GOD!!! I made one little change. After I pulled the meat @ 127, I started my chimney (on top of my Weber grill) using hardwood charcoal filled to the top. When the flame started kicking out a nice blue flame, I browned the roast on each side for 2 minutes. Might be the best piece of meat I have EVER cooked!
Bonnie Benwick: Way to start 2009!
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cutting back on salt: I found that just making more from scratch and cutting back on processed food with tons of salt made a big difference. We get so much "hidden" salt that our taste for it is out of whack. Once you get to where YOU'RE controlling how much you consume, a little sprinkle at dinner is very noticible and minor compared to what's in processed food.
Joe Yonan: Yes, absolutely.
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for the coffee and fruit person: I just made a great citrus fruit salad for Christmas brunch with sectioned oranges, pineapple, halved seedless grapes (green) with a touch of brown sugar and topped with Greek yogurt, crystallized ginger and honey. A hit!
Joe Yonan: Nice!
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Pecan Pie: The recipe makes 2 pies? I'm not sure I would need all that. How would I halve the recipe if it calls for 3 eggs in the filling?
Bonnie Benwick: They're not big pies. Eat one, and you may find that you "need" the other one! As for halving, figure that 1 large egg is about 4 tablespoons. The egg white is more important than the yolk in this particular case, so you could crack 2 eggs and use just the white of the second one.
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San Francisco: How do you remove casings from sausages? Will this only work for certain kinds? sometimes I don't even bother trying and recipes come out fine, but I wonder if I get less flavor.
Bonnie Benwick: Any recipes that call for sauteing or soup making, you'll want to remove the casings. Just make a quick superficial slit with a knife and you should be able to peel/pull them right off. I don't think flavor's a factor.
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Arlington, Va.: I've been hearing and reading more about lamb belly... and given my love of pork belly and lamb... I'm guessing that lamb belly could be right up my alley!
I'm guessing that it can be prepared in similar ways to pork belly, correct? And where can I purchase it locally?
Jane Black: Lamb belly is one of those things that is starting to pop up on New York restaurant menus. But I haven't seen it available locally. It might be a special order. Again, I'd try Organic Butcher and see what they can do.
In New York, chefs seem to be curing the lamb belly (a substitute for bacon). But Organic Butcher can probably also give you advice if they can get it in.
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Bosque Farms, N.M.: Sorry to post twice, but I just noticed in the quick brown rice recipe that it calls for an Italian seasoning blend. I'd like to use herbs that I have in stock so can you tell me what constitutes an Italian blend?
Thanks for your help.
Bonnie Benwick: It's usually a mix of oregano, basil, sometimes garlic powder and seasoned pepper. You don't need much for this recipe.
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Altoona, Pa.: The pineapple with strawberry sauce sounds good. I haven't found frozen strawberries I like. Can you recommend a brand? Thanks.
Joe Yonan: Stephanie says: "I just use the store brand. The vanilla and the lemon juice seem to balance any deficits the strawberries might have."
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Happy New Year!: Hi Foodies,
Just a general thanks for a great food section and a fun chat. Here's to good times in the kitchen and at the table for everyone in 2009!
Joe Yonan: I can't imagine ending on a better note... Thanks!
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Joe Yonan: Well, you've dipped us in sauce, wrapped us in shiso and topped us with ssam jjang and onion salad, so you know what that means: We're done!
Thanks as usual for such a dynamic chat. Hope we gave you some ideas to work with, and that your 2009 is absolutely delicious.
Now for the giveaway winners. The Ashburn chatter who asked about whole grains and the Dinner in Minutes recipe will get, ahem, "Whole Grains: Easy Everyday Recipes" by Ms. Betty Crocker herself (I thought she was dead, or at least fake). And the chatter who wrote in about Fairfax versus Merrifield Asian markets, particularly in regard to fish freshness, will get "International Cuisine" by the International Culinary Schools, a wide-ranging reference/cookbook. Just send your mailing info to food@washpost.com, and we'll get you your books.
Until next week, happy cooking, eating and reading...
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