Free Range on Food: Beer Madness, Party Buffet Suggestions, Using Mascarpone, Recipes for Pork Chops and Tenderloins and more
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Wednesday, March 4, 2009; 1:00 PM
A chat with the Washington Post Food Section staff is a forum for discussion of all things culinary: food trends, recipes, ingredients, menus, gadgets and more. You can share your thoughts on the latest Food section, get suggestions from fellow cooks and food lovers, or swap old-fashioned recipes the new-fashioned way. The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.
A transcript follows.
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Centreville, Va.: Posting early, but just wanted to thank you for the little item about the new non-dairy ice cream. I never would have known about it without you guys! As a lactose-intolerant family, we are always looking for a new dessert option (and soy ice cream just doesn't cut it and we're sick of sorbet).
Joe Yonan: Glad to help!
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Joe Yonan: Hello, eaters and drinkers, and welcome to Free Range, the chat that serves up recipes and beer during your lunch hour. What's on your plate and in your pint glass today?
As you can tell, we've got beer on the brain today. It's the first day of our multi-week Beer Madness extravaganza, and we're excited about how things went this year. Lots of drama in the matchups! You can see it all unfold and cast your own votes here, And stay tuned each week to see how things shape up.
What do you think about the first round results?
We'll have beer columnist/panelist Greg Kitsock here to help talk about all things beer. And we'll have giveaways for our favorite posts. I'm going to keep them a secret for now, but trust me, one of them is beer related. VERY beer related.
Let's pour.
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Falls Church, Va: Why don't you have a separate category for Belgian style beers or at least one for beers above 7 percent ABV? I've tried them all. My favorite these days is Brooklyn No. 1 which is rich, fruity, and 9 percent. Many real beer lovers left the overly-hopped and tart American micro-brews behind long ago.
Greg Kitsock: We tasted 32 beers in the space of one evening, and that's punishing enough without tasting a lot of higher alcohol brews! But maybe in the future we should stretch this out over more than one evening to accommodate bigger beers.
I enjoy Brooklyn No. 1 as well. If you like Belgian syles, I'd also recommend beers from Brewery Ommegang and Allagash.
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Beer story: I have to admit, I am not a beer fan, but I totally loved reading about the wild group of people you got to taste those beers. I still can't get over a 6-year-old being prescribed beer. Um, what planet did you find him on? Anyway, thanx for the great laugh. Considering all the bad news in other sections, this was a welcome relief.
Joe Yonan: You know, of all the things we asked the beer-panel applicants, we forgot to specify planet. I'm relatively new to the area, but is Alexandria on Earth? ;-) Glad you're liking the madness!
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Dupont Circle: Hey there, I'm headed to Argentina next week and I'll be spending a few days in Mendoza. Any of you have favorite wineries to visit down there? I'm a bit overwhelmed by the choices...
Jane Black: Hmmm. I was there a few years ago so I'm sure it's changed but I remember really liking VistAlba, which also has a gorgeous, if pricey, restaurant. We stayed at the Salentin winery, which is also a stunning spot. Here's an article I wrote after my trip in BusinessWeek. It describes things in more detail and I believe there's also contact info there.
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Newton, Mass.: Lucia's Walnut Cake question -- the cake looks great and I love that it is relatively light but, the directions for this recipe strike me a weird. I don't want to second guess, but are you sure that it works as written? After the egg whites cook with the sugar they really don't get beaten or anything before being added to the meringue? Won't there be clumps of cooked egg white in the cake? If you stand by it, I will make it tonight to bring to work tomorrow. Also, I hope that this chat survives the WP cuts (unlike Kim O'Donnel's). I have learned so much from you. I really look forward to it each week. I try not to schedule meetings etc. to interfere (shhh, don't tell my boss), but might have one today. -- Newton Mom
Joe Yonan: It's right, and it's fab. No clumps. Make it! Indeed, our chat is surviving; we're sorry to see Kim's go...
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Pasta Mia: Hi all, I need the skinny on Pasta. I love pasta but whenever I start planning out healthy eating options I always feel that I need to keep these particular carbs on the shelf. My question is - is this really the case? If I make a pasta rich with veggies is it that much more bad for me than a stir-fry over a cup of rice? I have pasta guilt and I'm looking for some way back.
Thanks!
Joe Yonan: I consider a cup of pasta and a cup of rice as comparable (and so does Weight Watchers, btw). So come on back to the pasta.
Now I have to ask, you saw our pasta pairings fabulousness from a few weeks back, right? Veggies appear in many of our sauces...
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Arlington, VA: We use sea salt a lot and the label on the grinder we use most mentions minerals not found in regular salt. My husband is worried about iodine since it's not specifically iodized. Can you comment on this and whether we need to worry about supplementing iodine? thanks!!
Joe Yonan: If you eat a varied diet, you should be just fine. It's true that sea salt isn't a good source of iodine, and that adding iodine to salt has helped reduce instances of goiter. But the fact is, you can get iodine from many other foods: veggies grown in iodine-rich soil, some seafood, cheese.
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Reston, VA: When you make your own yogurt, the recipe always calls for a small amount of dry milk powder. Why do you need that?
Joe Yonan: I've seen many recipes that don't call for this step, but adding the nonfat dry milk to a non-fat yogurt increases the protein and the body, helping the yogurt thicken.
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San Francisco: Hi foodies. Any guesses as to why my tapioca always comes out runny? I follow the recipe on the box, yet it never achieves that pudding-y texture except maybe a thin layer on top. I end up drinking it. Not cooking long enough?
Joe Yonan: We need more information, please -- can you share the recipe? (Impossible to diagnose otherwise...)
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Bethesda Mom: I bought 2 tubs (8 oz, I think) of mascarpone cheese and 2 packages of frozen pastry sheets thinking I would make tartlets for a party. I didn't get around to doing so, and while the pastry sheets are safe in the freezer, I need to use the mascarpone. Any recipe suggestions, not necessarily for dessert?
Thanks gurus!
Jane Black: You could make a cheesecake. Use the mascarpone to stuff dates. Add a little to a tomato sauce to make it creamy tomato sauce. The possibilities are endless. Here are a few ideas from our archive.
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Great recipes!: Loved the nine-ingredient recipes in today's section. And the Nourish column salmon was exactly what I'm looking for in a quick dinner. I have a suggestion for a future column: A quick, interesting way to use rotisserie chicken (there's always one in my fridge) in an entree. Thanks!
Bonnie Benwick: You're welcome. We'll try to throw more of that into the mix now and then. Well, you could use rotisserie chicken in today's Dinner in Minutes recipe for Chicken and Pistachio Fried Rice!
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Dupont Circle: Hi Food Section, I love your cooking for one columns and now I have a question about drinks to go with it. Sometimes I want wine with dinner, but not enough to open a whole bottle just for me. After the second day, the wine just doesn't taste very good anymore and it feels like a waste to spill out a third of a bottle. Do you have any recommendations for reds that come in a half bottle or something like that? Bubbly, fortunately, is pretty easy to find in smaller sizes, but I'm struggling for a nice red in a small bottle. thank you!
washingtonpost.com: I was just at Rodman's on Wisconsin Ave last night and they seem to have bulked up their stocks of half-bottles and single-serving bottles. I bought some single-serving bottles of Big House Red which is pretty good for every day. -- Elizabeth
Joe Yonan: Every week, more synchronicity. Besides getting smaller bottles, of course, you should also think about investing in one of those vacuum systems. I like the Vacu-Vin. But beyond that, know that in a few weeks for my next CF1 column, I'll have recipes that can help you use up that wine that's started to go off...
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Silver Spring, Md.: We're having a few people over for dinner on Friday, but we won't have much time to prepare after work. I could put together a traditional lasagna on Thursday night, but was hoping for something a little more inspired. No dietary restrictions. Any suggestions?
Jane Black: Joe swears by this recipe for marinated swordfish. You put it all together the night before, then pop it on the stove at low heat for 45 minutes to an hour. Crisp up some bread and serve. Great for a winter night.
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Party planning: I need help! I am planning a big party (30-40 people). I'm going to do a big buffet of food on my dining room table, and a big buffet of desserts on my kitchen table). I've been cooking and freezing stuff in advance to make the day of easier (don't worry, it's just over a period of 2 weeks and everything in the freezer is really well sealed. So far, I have risotto croquettes, bacon date fritters, spanikopita, and falafel. I'm planning to also do stuffed mushrooms, a platter of cheeses and crackers, and a bowl of cured olives. For desserts, I'm doing a big selection of homemade cookies and cupcakes. I want things that people can eat easily without having to sit at a table. But I feel like I'm missing something... some big main meat thing perhaps? Party will be dinner time, so I want to make sure people will have plenty to eat. Can you suggest something that is filling, that won't be too difficult for me, and that will be elegant? Thanks so much!
Jane Black: The menu sounds great. An easy add might be chicken or lamb kebabs. Thread chunks of meat spiced with Middle Eastern spices (that seems to be your theme) onto skewers with colorful peppers. It's easy for people to pick them up and pull them off the skewers without a fork and knife.
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Reston, Va.: Thanks for the recipes with nine items or fewer, and for the quick meals. I work full time and am in an evening grad program, so recipes that are quick and don't require a ton of ingredients are always welcome.
Question: I'm allergic to rosemary. Are there any similar herbs I could use in its place that won't dramatically change the taste of the dish?
Jane Black: Rosemary is quite a particular flavor so I can't think of anything that will replace the taste. That said, I'd just add whatever herbs you like. Thyme and marjoram work well with the same things rosemary does -- fish, lamb, chicken, tomato stews. Be careful with sage. As with rosemary, little goes a long way.
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Left-over wok query: Hello, Joe! Thanks for all the great wok info last week. I'm hoping you'll take another question, which is: Why, when I stir-fry chicken that's been marinated in corn starch and whatever else, does the corn starch always stick to the sides and bottom of the wok? It's gunky goo that I hate, hate, hate cleaning up. It doesn't seem to matter how hot the wok is or how much oil I put in or how hot the oil is. And by the way, do you ever have oil left in the wok? I never do, the chicken sucks it all up. Tons of thanks!
Joe Yonan: Sounds to me like your wok isn't seasoned enough. Answer me this: When it's clean, what does the surface of the inside (bottom and sides) look like?
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Alexandria, Va.: Quick food etiquette question. Was at Cheesetique in Del Ray last week and the cheesemonger helped me to pick out a few cheeses. When I paid via credit card, there was a tip line... are you supposed to tip your cheesemonger? I certainly appreciate the service, but I am not a believer that everyone deserves tips for their job. But if I'm supposed to, I will. FWIW, while I got very nice service, I did not make any out of the ordinary requests, etc. that would be "extra." Thanks!
Jane Black: You did the right thing. You are not supposed to tip the cheesemonger. I think Cheesetique's credit card slips have a tip line because they also have a cafe.
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Celery Root: I've been meaning to try out some recipes that call for celery root, but have not been successful in finding it. Do you have any suggestions? Maybe Whole Foods? I didn't see any at the farmers market in Dupont.
Joe Yonan: Yes, you can find it at WFM. You missed the season at the farmers market: Typically runs through February.
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hand mixer: I just bought a new hand mixer that has a beater attachment and a whisk attachment. What's the difference and when do I use each?
Bonnie Benwick: Mazel tov. The beater will combine ingredients; the whisk will incorporate more air into the mix as well. Egg whites/meringues or cream = whisk. As you can tell, the whisk is built to handle light ingredients.
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Palisades: I made last week's recipe for Garlicky Shrimp and Broccoli. Super! We both love scampi and this was a very satisfying replacement. My husband's only comment was he wishes it had more sauce. Without adding too much more oil is there a way to get this? I did drizzle a bit more EVOO over it at the end.
Joe Yonan: Sure! Stephanie Sedgwick says just add more wine and let it reduce by half...
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Chinese Mustard: I love the recipe for Chicken and Pistachio Fried rice! I also happen to have almost all of the ingredients in my pantry/fridge. While I don't have mustard greens, I do have arugula. I just don't have any Chinese mustard. Is there anything I could sub for in? I know I will be sacrificing its distinct flavor, but I don't want to make a trip out to the store just for that.
Bonnie Benwick: You have good taste!
Are you sure you don't have any of those little leftover Chinese mustard packets in a kitchen drawer, somewhere? I guess a spicy brown mustard would be the next best thing to use. And if you don't have that, just leave it out.
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for the Friday Night dinner: Do a fancy-ish cioppino type seafood stew in your crockpot. They hold up well for all day in the pot. Add the delicate fish at the last minute.
Jane Black: This is similar to the swordfish stew. But if you have a crockpot, go for it.
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stuffed mushrooms, a platter of cheeses and crackers, and a bowl of cured olives: sliced roast beef or gravlax would go great with that. What time should I be over?
Jane Black: Yeah, bet you didn't think you'd get advice -- and new friends.
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Mascarpone overload: Depending on season I use fresh strawberries or mixed frozen berries. Macerate with some balsamic vinegar and sugar, add mascarpone and zizz up in the blender. Cool in fridge.
This is delicious, and if you divide up into pretty glasses makes a delicious and pretty dessert for a party.
Jane Black: Yum.
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As the wok turns: It's shiny grey-black. With some scratches in the bottom and a silver color visible under the scratches.
Joe Yonan: I think you need more seasoning. On the bottom at least (and eventually farther up the sides), it should be very dark, even black.
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Do a fancy-ish cioppino type seafood stew : with 40 people, you're likely to have at least one who's allergic to shellfish
Jane Black: I *think* this was for the Friday night dinner party. But if it was for 40, I'm with this very smart reader.
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healthy pasta tips: For the person who leaves the pasta on the shelf -- like anything else, you can definitely enjoy it in moderation! Pasta gets a bad rap it doesn't deserve.
Just strictly limit your portion sizes (see what a serving is on the side of the box and go for that), and if possible, go for some of the high-fiber or whole-grain-type pastas, like Barilla Plus. They don't taste substantially different, especially in a flavorful sauce. If you get sick of tomato, a little pesto goes a long way.
While I'm at it, don't write off potatoes either. They're not that high in calories, it's the accompaniments that go wrong.
Joe Yonan: I agree, absolutely. Thanks for the reasonable point of view!
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Flavored beers: What do your experts think of flavored beers? I find them incredibly interesting, but definitely not "session beers", in that I only ever want one at a time.
I've had a violet and chestnut beers from France, Quebecois carrot, oregano, and absinthe brews, chili pepper beer (RIP Cave Creek), nut beers and assorted fruit beers.
They seem to be good conversation starters, good beers to share with someone else, and also distinguish one brewer from the next.
Greg Kitsock: Flavored beers covers a wide range of territory. Some, like Bud Light Lime, are intended to be "session beers" in that they're light and low-alcohol enough to drink several at one sitting. (Not that I'd necessarily want to ...)
Others, like the strong Belgian-style spiced ales, are definitely one-and-done type beers, to sip by the fireside at the end of the day.
They are definitely excellent conversation starters. One of the oddest I ever had was a tobacco stout some years ago at a beer festival. One of my friends remarked that if they added bullets to it, they'd have all bases covered at the ATF.
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Soul Vegetarian Cafe: Thanks so much for this review. It was great, and as a vegetarian getting something with more of a firm texture -- like tofu -- but with a more western aesthetic is hard to find.
This cafe must be such a find!
Joe Yonan: Glad you liked it! I thought the food was mostly delish...
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Chinese mustard sub: Maybe my family's just weird, but don't most people have a tin of Colman's dried mustard powder in the cabinet?
It makes good HOT mustard when mixed fresh with water.
Joe Yonan: Of course it does! I love my Colman's.
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wine for one: Also don't rule out box wine, which isn't as bad these days as it used to be. There are decent ones out there. Because the box wine is not as exposed to air, it survives better than the opened bottle does.
Jane Black: Absolutely agree.
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Philadelphia, PA: Any interesting and different ideas for pork tenderloin? I usually cover it in salt and pepper and herbs and wrap it in bacon to roast it, or butterfly it and do a hot-pepper-and-brown sugar glaze on the stovetop... but am looking for something else to try. On the healthy side if possible.
Jane Black: I just clipped a recipe for a tenderloin glazed with pepper jelly that's served with stir-fried baby bok choy. But, sadly, the recipe is at home. I googled it and found a bunch of things that sound similarly delicious. Check this one out.
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Arlington, Va.: Since you have beer on your brain... About a year ago I visited a brew house in Fayetteville, NC where I fell in love with a beer they brew that I believe is a brown porter: It was a very dark brown beer, with a chocolately/earthy aftertaste, but drank like a light beer (not a stout). The bartender told me it was a "Schlors" (phonetically spelled). I've never heard of, or been able to find reference of any type of beer called schlors. Anyway, in my search to find something similar closer to home, should I be tasting brown ales, or stick to the porters? Thanks!
Jane Black: Yeah, I can't find any reference to it either. Anyone out there familiar? (I know Greg is backed up so while he answers questions, let's all pitch in here.)
Greg Kitsock: I've never heard of Schlors. Are you sure it wasn't the name of the beer (a combination of Schlitz and Coors)?
There are two types of porter. Brown porter (think Yuengling Porter) is lighter, a little lower in alcohol and less full-bodied ... closer to a brown ale. Robust porter (think Sierra Nevada Porter) is bigger, roastier and hoppier.
You might like Brooklyn Brown or Backdraft Brown, which have some of the chocolatey, nutty flavors you'll find in porters but are lighter on the palate.
I hope that helps!
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Alexandria, Va.: Hi! A couple weeks ago I posted a request for traditional cocktail 'mixes' - which you answered partway by saying there are no mixes... What I was hoping for was recipes for things that you would typically buy 'mixers' for (since the mixers you buy are awful). So, a recipe for a great 'Tom Collins' - a recipe for a really good margarita, pisco sour, etc. Bad bartenders would all use the same sour mix for each - I'd love to know how good bartenders make their old-school cocktails... Thanks!!
Joe Yonan: This just in from Jason Wilson:
"Good bartenders simply follow the classic recipes and make each drink individually and not prepared ahead of time. A "sour" mix is only ever replacing fresh-squeezed citrus and sugar. The only "trick" is squeeze your own lemons and limes and use real sugar or simple syrup. If you want a recipe for a margarita, you can check it out a classic recipe here. A classic Tom Collins is an ounce and a half of gin, an ounce of fresh-squeeze lemon, and a teaspoon of sugar, shaken with ice, then strained into an ice-filled Collins glass and topped with club soda. A classic pisco sour is an ounce and a half of pisco, 1/2 ounce of fresh lime juice, teaspoon of sugar, and a half of an egg white, shaken with ice (for at least 30 seconds) and then strained into a cocktail glass -- with a few dashes of Angostura bitters floated on top."
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carnitas: A friend gave me a recipe for pork shoulder, marinating it in 1/2 cup vinegar and 1 tbsp Adobo seasoning overnight, then cooking 225 degrees for 6 hours. I have 2 questions, the first is the recipe calls for 8-10 lbs of pork shoulder. How do I cut the 1/2 cup vinegar down to make, say 3 lbs only? Also, there is no specification of vinegar, so would distilled white vinegar work?
Joe Yonan: I'd cut the vinegar in half, and yep, white vinegar would be fine. Apple cider, too.
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with 40 people, you're likely to have at least one who's allergic to shellfish: And one who's allergic to gluten. And one who's allergic to milk. And one who's a vegetarian. And one who's a vegan. And one who hates tomatoes.
Frustrating! But it seems like Friday night dinner has a wide variety - there will be lots for all the guests to enjoy.
Joe Yonan: It's enough to make you want everyone to fill out an affidavit, isn't it?
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Arlington, VA: I love Sam Adams Cherry Wheat, it's my go-to beer when I want something other than Yuengling. I've been in a 'cooking with beer' show down with my brother and we've both been experimenting. What style or specific beer do you think would complement a meatloaf that's big on onions, oregano, garlic, some cinnamon and the bread crumbs? Then of course, what to pair with said meatloaf? I usually win any dinner competition with this recipe so I'm looking to adapt it for this one.
Greg Kitsock: That's an interesting recipe for meatloaf you have there! You don't want anything light, because the onions and spices will drown out the beer.
How about a spiced ale that has some strength and fullness of body but some subtleness as well? You might try the Southampton Double White (one of the beers in our tasting) or the new Sam Adams Imperial White.
A big, hoppy imperial IPA should also stand up to the spices; there are many on area shelves. Try some of the hop monsters from Stone or Green Flash Brewing, for instance.
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EVOO: I thought cooking with Extra Virgin was a waste of money, save that for salad dressing. Plus a blend has a lower smoke point?
Jane Black: I don't know if it's a waste of money. (There's lots of cheap extra virgin olive oil out there.) I think the lesson is not to use very expensive artisanal oil for cooking; save that for dressings. But you're right, you do get a lower smoke point for blends.
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Beer for pregnant women: You think prescribing beer for 6-year-olds is bad, in Scotland they used to give out Tennents Sweetheart Stout to patients in the maternity ward, presumably because it had a high iron content. It also has to be one of the worst beers ever - sickly sweet, almost flat and no hop character at all.
Joe Yonan: You sound like one of our panelists? Might that be the case? As a new mother desperate for a beer (or 32) after abstaining for nine months, she mentioned the same tidbit about Guinness (that is was recommended for pregnant women, NOT that it's one of the worst beers ever, because of course it's not).
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Silver Spring, Md.: I'm still trying to find high protein/high gluten flour locally for my bagels. I've tried several natural food stores and co-ops. Some have gluten flour (which is vital wheat gluten, not flour), but none has high protein or high gluten flour.
Can the chatter who found some tell me where? Or do you have any ideas besides expensive mail order?
Jane Black: I called around to Mom's Organic Market, Whole Foods and Takoma Park and no dice. I think you'd be best off just ordering it. King Arthur sells organic high-gluten flour that is especially for bagels online. It's about $10 for 3 pounds.
Joe Yonan: Kint Arthur has reasonable shipping costs, too, so this shouldn't be too expensive. While you're on their site, browse around and add some other things of interest! I seem to buy from them every couple of months. My latest find: Fior di Sicilia, a little extract that combines citrus and vanilla; love it for baked goods.
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Pork Tenderloin with maple glaze: (From Bon Appetit) is rubbed with salt and pepper plus sage. Glazed with mixture of 9 parts each maple syrup and apple cider vinegar to one part Dijon (adjust to taste) reduced to desired thickness and extra served on the side. Love this especially in the fall/winter -- always good for guests since it doesn't have many ingredients people get picky about and pairs nicely with fall/winter sides.
Jane Black: That sounds so good. I love maple syrup. It's one of the only things I'm sorry to say goodbye to come spring/summer.
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Simple recipes: It would be great if you would print some recipes that don't require washing up various pieces of cookware afterwards because the dish started on the stove in a pan and then moved to the oven in something else. I hate the clean-up more than the prep work. But I don't want to eat nothing but stew. I thank you in advance.
Joe Yonan: We have recipes like this all the time -- such as the ones on our Recipe page today. Stephanie's Nourish recipe has you cook salmon fillets in an ovenproof skillet on the stovetop, then put the pan with fillets in it in the oven.
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Bethesda: How did you select the beers for your tourney? I have sampled a great many different beers and yet have only had (or even heard of) a little over half of the entrants. Of those I would consider the best American beer makers Kalamazoo (Bells), Dogfish Head, Magic Hat, and Rogue, you only had a Bells. Unfortunately, it was the least exceptional stout they do (Double Cream Stout is my pick.) I'm astounded you skipped Dogfish Head's 90 Minute IPA.
Greg Kitsock: Regarding the selection of beers, we try to include brands we never tried before (except for the previous year's Final Four). We try to include beers that are no higher (or not much higher) than 7% alcohol by volume, since this is a marathon tasting, which is why we skipped the Dogfish Head 90 Minute (we had their 60 Minute IPA last year). But I have great respect for Dogfish, and for the other breweries you mention.
We also try to select beers that are readily available in this area, although some of the brands we used might be available, for instance, in norther Virginia, but not yet in DC or Maryland (the Blue Mountain Lager, for instance).
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mascarpone use: I love this recipe and never thought to use mascarpone for a savory sauce:
Chicken with Mustard Mascarpone Marsala Sauce From "Everyday Italian" by Giada De Laurentiis:
1 1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts, each breast cut crosswise into 3 pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 tablespoons butter, divided
3/4 cup chopped onion
1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 cup dry Marsala wine
1 cup (8 ounces) mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, plus whole sprigs, for garnish
12 ounces dried fettuccine
Directions
Sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over high heat. Add the chicken and cook just until brown, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate and cool slightly.
While the chicken cools, melt 2 tablespoons of butter to the same skillet over medium-high heat, then add the onion and saute until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and garlic and saute until the mushrooms are tender and the juices evaporate, about 12 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until it is reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Stir in the mascarpone and mustard. Cut the chicken breasts crosswise into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the skillet. Simmer, uncovered, over medium-low heat until the chicken is just cooked through and the sauce thickens slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley. Season the sauce, to taste, with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fettuccine and cook until al dente, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Drain. Toss the fettuccine with 3 tablespoons of butter and season, to taste, with salt and pepper. Swirl the fettuccine onto serving plates. Spoon the chicken mixture over top. Garnish with parsley sprigs and serve.
Jane Black: Thanks for sending this in.
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Richmond: oh, I LOVE pepper jelly...
Jane Black: Me too. I've been using it for crostini with goat cheese lately. (A slightly fancier version of the old pepper jelly and cream cheese.) And sometimes I just eat it out of the jar. :)
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re: Celeriac: It was stocked at the Columbia Heights Giant last month.
Joe Yonan: Thanks!
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beer: Beer in the maternity ward. My doctor recommended one beer because supoposedly it helped new moms with breastfeeding.
Joe Yonan: Cheers!
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Make mine an Old Heurich!: Or maybe a Cambridge brewed Snow Goose?
I'm not such a fan of the new overhopped Belgian styles, or big beers. Give me a heavily malted ale or a nice oatmeal stout.
Greg Kitsock: Sadly, the Olde Heurich Brewing Co. went out of business about two years ago. I did enjoy their lager, which was a nice, malty very drinkable beer.
Likewise, the original Wild Goose Brewing Co. ceased brewing over 10 years ago, but Flying Dog Brewery (which still makes Wild Goose) has returned to the original yeast strain. So if you haven't had a Wild Goose in a while, you might give it another try.
As for oatmeal stouts, I'd recommend the Barney Flats from Anderson Valley (one of the beers in our tasting), and Wolaver's does an organic oatmeal stout.
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hate the clean-up more than the prep work. : I thought the universal rule was whoever doesn't cook does the clean up! (it's what I always tell my husband, anyway)
Joe Yonan: I'm with you.
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For Party Planner: Just had a party a few weeks ago with the similar notion in mind. Some suggestions: stuffed tomatoes with filling of your choice, roasted potato wedges (I used fingerlings), crostini. Good Luck!
Joe Yonan: Thanks!
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Sweetheart Stout again: No, not on your panel. But when traveling to Scotland with someone who has never been there before, it's fun to make them try Sweetheart Stout, because it is such a horrid beer. Pair it up with a deep fried pizza and you've got a "memorable" meal.
Joe Yonan: You're twisted, and I like it.
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since you mention apple cider vs white vinegar : Can I always substitute one for the other in recipes? I have a gallon jug of apple cider vinegar and lately all the recipes I make call for white vinegar!
Joe Yonan: You usually can, with varying results depending on the application. Sometimes apple cider vinegar is great because the extra flavor plays off, say, pork or cabbage, while the white vinegar is a simpler flavor. But for the sharpness, you're fine subbing.
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Cleveland Park: Is it possible to substitute something vegetarian for bacon in today's eggplant recipe or other recipes? I like the veggie bacon strips by Morningstar but I'm guessing they're not greasy enough.
Joe Yonan: I've never tried those, but I think I'd be tempted to instead just leave out the bacon altogether and add something smoky, such as chipotle or pimenton.
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Douglass Park, VA: I too have extra mascarpone cheese that needs to be used soon. I followed Jane Black's lead and found several recipes. Among them Caprese Granita sounds perfect to me, although I have to wait till summer for tomatoes. The recipe is identified as a Food section contest winner. Are there any other food section contest winners? How do I find them. And also thanks for the new Recipe Finder. I am enamored with it more and more.
Jane Black: Yes, that granita was great. But you will have to wait. I would not have the same zing with a winter, imported tomato.
We do the recipe contest once a year and only with tomatoes (at least that's what we've done in my tenure.)
Search "top tomato" in the database and you'll get the winner and the runners up.
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Philadelphia, PA: Hey, the person with extra mascarpone can serve it with pepper jelly and then we'll have chat crossover.
Jane Black: It's bringing a tear to my eye.
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Yuengling: So... they really did moonshine during Prohibition, didn't they, in spite of what it says on their web site?
Please don't disappoint me.
Greg Kitsock: Officially, the brewery claims it survived Prohibition by making ice cream and near beer.
However, since near beer was generally made by making a full-strength beer and getting rid of the alcohol, there's no way to know if some of that real beer wasn't diverted for other purposes.
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Richmond: My mom never made pork chops (an old trichinosis fear, no kidding), so I know nothing about cooking them. How 'bout a quick basic baking method I can adapt to different spices, marinades? Since I hate junk food and my husband hates "weird" food, I have to jump on the few things that appeal to both. Yes, I'm a gourmet from a mixed marriage, married to a finicky eater.
Jane Black: The trick with pork chops, especially lean American pork chops, is not to cook them over too high a heat or they get super dry and tough. Cooks Illustrated investigated this with their typical rigor a few years ago and recommend starting the pork chop in a cold pan over medium-high heat. You won't get the sear. But you will end up with a juicier chop. I'd recommend this over baking. As for spices, the sky's the limit. Use a dry rub, salt, pepper and herbs or glaze them when the meat is just about done. Check out the recommendations for the maple syrup glaze or, when in doubt, use pepper jelly.
Joe Yonan: You should also read over this Chef on Call column we did on this very subject, with Nathalie Dupree.
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I'm late but..: what? wine not tasting as good the next day? also, what is leftover wine?
Jane Black: You sound like Jason Wilson. "What's a mocktail? I do not understand a cocktail without alcohol...."
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Silver Spring, MD: Re: Mendoza...when we were there, we had a fantastic lunch + wine pairing at Ruca Malen with a beautiful view of snowcapped Aconcagua.
Re: Mascrapone...you can freeze in the tub if you're not going to use it right away. Simply thaw and stir when you're ready to use it. My mother has been doing this for years, as have I.
Jane Black: Good advice. Thanks.
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re: "Schlors": Was it by chance a schwarzbier? The first syllable sounds kind of like "schlors". If so, the Saloon on U St. has Kostritzer on tap and I think Gordon Biersch and Rock Bottom each make one as well. My favorite in that category is from Rogue.
By the way, how did you pick the beers? Some are great - Troegs HopBack and the Bells Kalamazoo - but most of the choices leave a lot to be desired. Is this the NIT bracket?
Greg Kitsock: Sam Adams makes a black lager (which is essentially a Schwarzbier), and so does Shiner. There is also a brand called McSorley's Irish Black Lager which is theoretically available in Virginia and which I've enjoyed (despite the fact that this is not an Irish style). It was formulated by Phil Markowski, the same brewer who does the Southampton beers.
By that's an interesting idea ... have a consolation NIT tournament for the lighter, mass-market beers.
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Bouchons au Thon: This is my husband's third day of retirement. I made the bouchons au thon from Molly Wizenberg's cookbook for our lunch today. I substituted Italian blend cheese (with apologies to the French) for the Gruyere. We ate them on a bed of baby greens with a side of leftover cheese grits mixed with leftover yellow saffon ice. Yum.
Jane Black: Glad you enjoyed it. I could do with some cheese grits right now myself.
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A Beer Lover's Etiquette Suggestion?: Hello everyone. I just had to make a quick comment because I found the first post in this chat particularly galling. Comments like:
"Many real beer lovers left the overly-hopped and tart American micro-brews behind long ago."
Aren't doing anyone any good. Why do beer lovers feel the need to judge others' preferences? There are plenty of "real beer drinkers" to whom the term "overly-hopped" isn't even in the lexicon. Meanwhile, my fiancee -loves- belgian beers - and she's a wine drinker...
My point is this: we all love beer. Can't we all accept that we all have different tastes and preferences and that doesn't make any of us more or less of a "real beer drinker?"
Joe Yonan: Can't we all just drink along?
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Washington, DC: The flavored beer category seems to me to be hard to compare to the other categories. Did you ask all the judges whether they liked the lambics and other beers of that ilk? Do you foresee any difficulties in judging one of those relative to more traditional style beers?
Greg Kitsock: Admittedly, the specialty beer division is a catch-all category. For instance, when you match up a cherry beer against a ginger beer, how you vote will depend solely on personal preference, without regard to any stylistic guidelines.
But this is a fun contest, not judged on the basis of formal style guidelines, and I wanted to include as wide a range of beers as possible.
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re: pork chops: Absolutely LOVE Nathalie Dupree's method. Found it when you first posted it, and it has been our go-to ever since. My husband loves pork chops.
I also have brined thinner chops when they've been on sale, with some good success.
God love her, my mother used to bake them with cream of mushroom soup and a schmear of mustard on top. I have no idea what purpose the mustard was intended to serve, but it got all browned and squiggy on top and I hated it. Mom did not grow up with pork or ham (and still doesn't like them) and her own mother was vastly more loving and freespirited than she was a good cook, so I am thankful to you for helping me break the generational trend.
Joe Yonan: So happy to hear it.
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banana cake: Bonnie, Didn't you say some time back that you had a favorite go-to banana cake recipe that you were going to share at some point? Please?
Jane Black: Bonnie had to run out. But I'll bug her. I have some bananas to use up myself!
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Carnitas: Just wanted to make a plug for the WaPo's pressure cooker carnitas. They are divine! And so so easy
Joe Yonan: Excellent! I like these, too.
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Silver Spring: Funny story: I told my sister and her husband how wonderful my brined turkeys are using apple cider. She looked up a recipe and did her own. Called and said it was the worst - horrible. They couldn't even eat it. Long story short - instead of using apple cider she used apple cider vinegar. I guess that would make it inedible.
Joe Yonan: Wow! I guess it would.
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clean up vs prep work: When my b.f. is here I have to re-wash almost everything he cleans up because he does such a pathetic job of it (not washing the outsides, leaving bits of things on the insides and stripes of oil or whatever on most things). I've tried various times to get him to do a more thorough job but it hasn't worked, and he looks sooo pleased to have helped that I can't bring myself to criticize him.
I'm betting others out there are in the same situation.
(When I'm alone, of course I have to clean up by myself.)
Joe Yonan: I think we could have an entire chat devoted to this subject.
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I'm late but..: what? wine not tasting as good the next day? also, what is leftover wine?: I could drink the whole bottle, and believe me some days I'd love to, but I think the next morning would be ugly.
Joe Yonan: Very true.
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Bad universal rule of cooking / cleaning up: Having the person who cooked not clean up is a terrible way to be mindful of the cleanup work needed. My father and I had to face the most disastrous kitchen every night after my mother's cooking.
Not that I'm bitter or anything.
It is also much more enjoyable to cook and clean in company.
Joe Yonan: See what I mean?
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Baltimore, MD: Speaking of beers, I love Maibocks and Marzens. When are they in season and do you recommend any that might be found? For instance, Clipper City (I believe) puts out a MarzHon (for Baltimore).
Thanks and I'm glad this discussion is sticking around.
Greg Kitsock: Maibocks generally surface in the later spring. Mai means May in German. Check out Gordon Biersch; I believe they released one last year.
Marzens are similar to Oktoberfest beers, but while the latter are fall seasonals, Marzens are available year around.
Check out a retailer witha good selection of German beers and you'll find some excellent beers of both styles.
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Joe Yonan: Well, we've been drained down to our last drop, so you know what that means -- this tasting is over! Thanks so much for the great questions -- and thanks to Greg for helping us handle the yeastiest ones.
Now for our giveaways: Greg will put together, for two of our chatters, a mixed six-pack of interesting brews, including some from our tournament. The winners of that (we'll work out delivery or pickup issues later) are the chatter who asked about flavored beers, and the one who bristled at the idea of "real" beer drinkers. Send your full contact information (mail and daytime phone number) to us at food@washpost.com, and we'll work things out.
Thanks, all, and until next time, happy cooking, eating, reading -- and drinking!
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