Ask Tom

Tom Talks Shop

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

For more restaurant chatter, join Sietsema's Table, Tom's new discussion group about dining experiences.

The transcript follows.

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Tom Sietsema: Hump Day! At last!

So much to talk about today, too.

What does everyone think about sommelier Mark Slater leaving Citronelle to become the wine director at Ray's the Steaks and the other Michael Landrum venues?

I got a note earlier this week from one of the partners at the new Eventide in Arlington, who is attempting to reach out to a disgruntled customer. Here's his e-mail:

"Last week, someone posted about visiting Eventide and while they said they enjoyed the food and ambiance, they were disturbed by the slow service they received. We are a new restaurant and we're still working out some kinks with new staff members, but at the same time, we are charging full price and guests should expect good service as part of their visit. If there's a way for that guest to get in touch with me, I'd like to apologize to them personally. My e-mail is davepressley@verizon.net."

Thanks,

Dave Pressley

GM/Partner, Eventide Restaurant

On with da show ....

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Culpeper, Va.: What do you think about guests helping the waitstaff with plates and silverware??

Tom Sietsema: I think it's not always a wise idea (says the former waiter who once dumped ten glasses of sangria on a bunch of diners when one of them decided to "help" me distribute the drinks).

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Downtown D.C.: Tom -- a few weeks ago the City Paper's food critic Tim Carman was on Tony Bourdain's "No Reservations" escorting Tony around the ethnic eateries of NoVa, and last week Corby Kummer of The Atlantic was on the new Marco Pierre White reality show. Neither was in disguise. With the plethora of food shows on television is the idea of anonymous food critics going by the wayside? If so, when will we see your mug on camera?

Tom Sietsema: To each his own. But as long as I'm reviewing restaurants for this paper, I think I'll decline to show my unpixilated mug on television (or anywhere else).

I will say this: there's pressure on the part of some publications to get writers' faces out there. Some editors see it as a way to connect with readers, or promote "the brand." Fortunately, I don't face any such pressure here at the Post.

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Fell's Point, Md.: Tom, just recently came back from my first trip to Paris, and loved the cafes. Are there any places in the Washington/Baltimore area that approximates the atmosphere and food? I'm dying for my tartines and deca cafe.

Tom Sietsema: Here in Washington, I think Montmartre and Bistro Lepic, among others, do a good job of delivering a bit of Paris on the plate. Further afield, in Woodbridge, I've had some fine French cooking at the lovely Bistro L'Hermitage, which I'm reviewing in this Sunday's Magazine.

washingtonpost.com: Bistrot Lepic and Montmartre

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Silver Spring, Md.: My wife and I have moved back to D.C. after a 5 year hiatus. What is the one restaurant that has opened within that time, (which also would be friendly to someone who does not eat meat, but does like seafood), that should be at the top of our "Thank God We Are Back" list?

Price no object.

Tom Sietsema: Five years is a long time, Silver Spring. Welcome back.

I think you'd rejoice over the cooking at such relative newcomers as Zaytinya, Rasika, CityZen, the relocated Corduroy, Bourbon Steak, Volt in Frederick, the redecorated Bombay Club ... for starters.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom, My husband and I went to the Brabo Tasting Room last Friday night at about 5 p.m. I love the look, the communal table in the front and the open kitchen. The beer list was nice as well. All was actually nice, except for one thing... our waiter. He was super, super casual and after he had sprayed fizzy water all over me when opening the bottle of Saratoga, he ignored that it was on me (which it so obviously was) and went on about how it must have been someone playing a joke on him. Wiped the table off with his apron and went on with it.

We had ordered a charcuterie plate and a cheese plate and he plopped them down and ran, no explanation of which cheese or meat was what...

So, other than that it was okay, the seltzer thing kind of did me in.....

Tom Sietsema: Good thing it wasn't BEER, huh?

Brabo is a new restaurant. I'd cut it a wee bit of slack. But let's hope his manager sees this and reads your comment aloud at tonight's staff meeting.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite: Brabo

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Jockey Club?: Good morning, Tom. What's the Jockey Club like since it re-opened? We would like to go back because we used to love the old one, but if this is something completely different we'd like to know before we go. Keep up the good work!

Tom Sietsema: I was unimpressed by my dinner there following the restaurant's makeover. But that was months ago now. Has anyone else been there?

washingtonpost.com: First Bite: Jockey Club

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Washington, D.C.: Drinks then Dinner. Hi Tom, looking for a place with a quiet enough bar to get together with a bunch of thirty-somethings Friday night. Preferably, a small group of us then will be able to have a nice meal at the restaurant later on in the evening. Suggestions for a spot in the Penn Quarter?

Tom Sietsema: "Quiet" and "good for a group" and "delicious" aren't the easiest combination to find, at least in a single spot in one of the busiest neighborhoods in town.

But let me try to help you by suggesting, um, well, er .... does it HAVE to be quiet?

If not, head to The Source, Tosca, Matchbox, Oya, Oyamel or PS 7's.

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Alexandria: Does the cleanliness of a restaurant's restroom enter into your assessment of it?

Tom Sietsema: Do I ever write about it? Rarely.

Do I take mental note of it? Frequently.

A clean restroom suggests a clean everything else.

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Bethesda, Md.: Tom - there are some restaurants that you steadfastly refuse to discuss, either negatively or positively....Zengo comes to mind. How come?

Tom Sietsema: Either because they don't fit a question or I don't care for them or, in the case of Zengo, because I haven't dropped by in a long time and don't feel comfortable praising or panning the place.

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Mclean, Va.: I am puzzled and angry at the rating you gave to Assaggi restaurant. We are regulars and we have a group of Italian friends who would not eat anywhere else for authentic Italian food. We never had a bad meal or bad service at Assaggi.

Tom Sietsema: I stand by my rating and my words. The critique was based on four visits spread out over several months. (One-and-a-half stars falls between "satisfactory" and "good" on my scale.)

washingtonpost.com: This Week's Review: Assaggi Mozzarella Bar

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About Ardeo: Hi Tom, Thanks for these weekly chats-- they're a highlight of the week!

I do need to share about an experience we had over the weekend at Ardeo. I didn't report it to a manager since we were hosting guests and I didn't want to make a scene, but here it is: Though the food was all right, and the wine service from the sommelier was helpful, our server (whose name I didn't get, or I'd be posting it, believe me) seemed to be in a hurry. I wondered if he had a hot date later since he didn't want to let us enjoy our meal with our friends at all. He rushed us with our menus (he patronizingly told us that "when menus are closed it's a sign you're ready" when we had only been there for a few minutes), he rushed us with our courses, he rushed us with the bill, and he rushed us with the tip (trying to pick it up before we'd filled in the tip and signed our copies). Believe me, we won't be back.

It was really a shame since we wanted an evening to chat with and enjoy our guests, but in between the pushiness, we had a nice time!

Tom Sietsema: It's a shame one of you didn't alert the manager to the problem, even if on the way out the door, because how else can a restaurant right a wrong? (This could have been done off to the side, in private.)

I had a similar problem recently at a popular new restaurant, where the server hovered like a helicopter over my table and kept rushing us through our courses and even the check, which came the moment the dessert plates were cleared. Grrr.

I'd give Ardeo another chance. Just ask for a different server.

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Bethesda, Mary's Land: What's up Tom! I have two questions for you: 1. How many questions to you generally get for the chat? 2. What's the word on Inox? Worth the drive over the big pond (well, for me at least)?

Tom Sietsema: I get hundreds of questions here every Wednesday, far more than I could ever answer in an hour.

As for Inox, I have yet to dine there. But the word on the street has been positive thus far.

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Washington, D.C.: There seem to be no restaurants in and around D.C. that have BOTH great views and great food. Am I mistaken in this assertion? If I am not, why is this?

washingtonpost.com: Going Out Guide's Best Bets: Restaurants With Great Views

Tom Sietsema: Your wish has been granted.

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Washington, D.C.: Two weekends ago I had a miserable experience at a restaurant that I have frequented before and normally had great food and service.

This time the food was bad, the service was beyond horrible (no drinks for 30 mins, wrong drinks, food late, food wrong, no apologies, etc.) The crowning glory was that my husband saw a baby rat at the end of the meal. This restaurant has a completely open front, so it could have just run inside. But still. UGH.

We paid the bill and then I spoke to the manager because I was not really looking to get a comp. I did tell the manager about the rat, and just as I was showing him where we had seen it, it came out for a reprise appearance. He was so shocked that he scribbled his name on a card and told me to come back for another meal on the house. He was obviously not paying that much attention from then on as other patrons were catching sight of the pesky rodent and beginning to freak out in the middle of a packed Sunday brunch.

The issue is that we were a party of 4 and I had not told him that. The meal was basically ruined for all of us, but I feel weird calling him when we go to return and saying, "Oh yeah, 4 of us are showing up." But I also feel weird taking the comp alone because it was an expensive meal and there were 4 of us.

Any ideas?

Tom Sietsema: Yeesh.

You know what I would do? I'd call up your table mates, tell them about the offer you got from the manager and invite them out to the same restaurant (if you dare) and split the cost of the discounted meal.

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Washington, D.C..: Since someone raised Anthony Bourdain's DC visit -- can I register a complaint? I think the show missed the mark. He went to Chadwicks, the D.C. waterfront (to eat seafood -- gasp!), and then he was in Va. eating Ethiopian food that we have right plenty of here on 9th Street. He went to Ben's Chili Bowl (not original), Busboys (but didn't eat, which is fine), and Minibar. Don't you think you (or we) could have pointed him to many dining experiences that would have merited an episode on D.C.'s dining scene? I would have liked to see Comet, Etete, Litteri's or Vace, Palena, Big Bear Cafe, Sushi Taro, etc. Did you have any reactions to the show?

Tom Sietsema: I agree. If one more out-of-town producer highlights one more fair-to-middling Washington restaurant, I'm gonna scream. It's as if the city was trapped in amber, right?!

I chalk it up to laziness.

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D.C. at day, Springfield at night: Mark Slater leaving Citronelle! Yikes! One of the only bright spots in the front of house there. We go to Citronelle maybe 2 - 3 special dates a year (more to Central) but Mr. Slater has always been helpful and nice to deal with. He made the rest of the snooty wait staff tolerable. I hope Chef Richard and Mr. Slater left on good terms. Your blurb opening on this is chat is the first I have heard of that.

Tom Sietsema: Mr. Slater was indeed a great spokesmodel for Citronelle, and I'm sure he'll do the same for Ray's the Steaks and Ray's the Classics -- this time, "without a monkey suit" as he told me earlier this week.

According to Slater, his last worknight (Saturday) was a bittersweet moment. He had worked the floor of Citronelle for 11 years, after all! Rest assured, he's leaving on good terms with the chef and other restaurant members.

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We were a party of 4 and I had not told him that: : "But I also feel weird taking the comp alone because it was an expensive meal and there were 4 of us." You sound like you want Tom tell you it's okay to want a comp for the 4 of you, even though you didn't provide that information to the manager.

Tom Sietsema: As I said, I think the diner should use the discount with her pals in tow. Split the cost of the meal.

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Falls Church, Va.: Tom, I know many find eating dog morally repulsive; however, I find it silly that people would rather eat a cow, pig or chicken. Please let me know if there are any restaurants serving fresh dog in the D.C. area. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: There's a terrific poodle dish served with a red wine reduction and fresh ginger at ....

Aw come on, how naive do you think I am?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Two questions: (1) Have you ever sent a dish back to the kitchen and still given the restaurant high marks or does the fact that something came out wrong the first time affect your review? (2) Do you ever request modifications to something on the menu? Do you have any allergies that prevent you from trying certain foods/ingredients?

Tom Sietsema: The last time I sent a dish back, I wrote about it. (See the aforementioned Assaggi critique.) I wanted to see how the kitchen responded to what I thought was a valid request. But I rarely make modifications to dishes.

Not long ago, I was dining with a delightful couple who bought me at a charity auction. The woman asked if we could order the crudo "cooked rather than raw." I told her that wasn't possible and didn't pass the request on to our waiter.

As of now, I have nothing I'm allergic to, knock on Formica.

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Fresh poodle!: That person was probably a vegetarian making a point. Why would you eat cow but not dog? Because the dog is cuter?

Tom Sietsema: Or maybe it was Gene Weingarten trying to start a riot!

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But I also feel weird taking the comp alone because it was an expensive meal and there were 4 of us: You want to go back to a place with bad service and rats? Kudos to the manager for offering the comp, but it doesn't sound like a place worth the return trip.

Tom Sietsema: I agree, but a discount is a discount in some customers' eyes.

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Washington, D.C.: You forgot one restaurant with a great view, of the river at least. But now I can't remember the name. Its off of GW parking right on the water, there is a marina...maybe it was something "Landing" -- food was okay, but its so nice to sit out there on a pleasant evening. Help!

Tom Sietsema: Ah, I know the place all too well. Which is why Indigo Landing didn't make the cut.

washingtonpost.com: 1/2-Star review of Indigo Landing

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Tom Sietsema: Confidential to a restaurateur who mistakenly dialed me on his cell phone this week: Always make sure you hit "end call" before you (think you) are finished with the conversation. Your secret is safe with me, though.

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Washington, D.C.: How can I buy dinner with you at an auction!!!

Tom Sietsema: Ha! These days, I tend to say "yes" only to charities connected to hunger relief issues -- or to close friends who sign me up for only vaguely related food causes, because they have that kind of power over me. (You know who you are, SJ!)

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Arlington, Va.: 2941 has a pretty good view too.

Tom Sietsema: Right-o. I think that's in the "Romantic" category.

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Takoma Park: Do you walk, drive, bike, take Metro or ride a bus to get to the restaurants you review?

Tom Sietsema: All of the above, just like my readers! (Honestly, though, it's been a few years since I biked to a restaurant.)

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Dallas, Tex.: Your comment about being rushed after the dessert plates were cleared reminded me of my own pet peeve: not even being offered dessert. I can't tell you how many times the check has been brought to our table after the main course, when we had fully intended to order coffee and dessert. Have others experienced this as well, or do my husband and I just look like we don't need another dessert? :-)

Tom Sietsema: I bet the restaurant wants your table back, and the $80 another couple is about to spend on appetizers, entrees and drinks is preferable to the $15 or so you and your spouse might spend on sweets.

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Washington, D.C.: re: views

That list is laughable. Fair enough, Cafe MoZu. But I think the question was probably referring to a view of the D.C. skyline and not of Tyson's Corner. We don't hear much about New Heights since their acclaimed chef left (for Inox?). Old Hickory, is the food really that good? And the restaurant at the Kennedy Center? Still no place with BOTH great food and a great food. It's more like a list of places with a good/great view and good to mediocre food.

Tom Sietsema: I would certainly put New Heights on the good view/nice enough view list.

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San Francisco, Calif.: Submitting early due to work. Thanks for taking my question.

In your opinion, would a chef actually be open to an unsolicited offer to volunteer in his or her kitchen? I'm interested in working in a kitchen, but have considerably more enthusiasm than experience.

Tom Sietsema: I'll throw this one out to the chefs in today's crowd, but I'm betting there might be legal/safety issues involved that would prohibit civilians from shadowing or working alongside professionals.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom. Regarding kids menus...we once stopped at your typical country restaurant on Rt. 29, just north of C'ville. Having 2 kids, we were very happy that the restaurant didn't have a specific kids menu. Instead, they offered a "kids portion" of ANY entree on the menu. (I think it was around 40-50% of the full price). The owners are parents so they knew firsthand how bland kids menus can be and they want to provide their little customers with a wealth of options. Just a great idea. Now, I wish could remember the name of the restaurant to give them proper credit. I also wish that more restaurants would do this.

Tom Sietsema: Kudos to the Restaurant Whose Name You Forgot! I applaud the idea of smaller portions of dishes prepared with some thought.

Speaking of kids' menus, you might want to check of the multi-course options added to the menu at Firefly, as described in today's Dish column.

washingtonpost.com: Today's Dish: Kid Stuff at Firefly

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Food adventure to the 'burbs: Tom,

Some usually-public-transportation-bound friends and I have access to a car tonight, which is an unusual treat. We decided we want to venture to the 'burbs (either Md. or Va.) for dinner. We're thinking some sort of Asian food but we'd open to virtually any cuisine. (Since we're planning this so last minute, it probably has to be somewhere that wouldn't require a reservation).

So -- bottom line -- if it was your one chance to get out of D.C. and have a not-too-expensive dinner, where would you go??

Tom Sietsema: You know what's good right now? Present, the handsome Vietnamese dining room in an anonymous strip mall in Falls Church. If you try only one appetizer, make it the giant shrimp cracker heaped with chopped baby clams, ground beef, mint and lime.

Present is located at 6678 Arlington Boulevard; the number is 703-531-1881.

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Lincoln Park, D.C.: Tom, we are three couples, two in D.C. and one from Wisconsin, who have been friends since our college days at the University of Wisconsin. For several years, whenever our Wisconsin classmates were in town, we'd get together for dinner at Les Halles. Where can we go now: Nice and good, central location, but not too noisy and not excessively expensive. Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: In the same 'hood (and also French and easy on the wallet): Cafe du Parc.

washingtonpost.com: Review: Cafe du Parc

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Potomac, Md.: Tom, not a restaurant question, but, as a former Seattle journalist, what is your reaction to the Seattle PI going totally online today with Tuesday's paper being the last print edition? I had previously traveled frequently to Seattle and over the years developed a bit of affection for the PI.

Tom Sietsema: I am saddened every time a newspaper folds. In this case, I knew some of the writers and editors who were left jobless by the P-I's demise in print. (For readers who might not know, I was the paper's food critic from 1994-1996.) A shame. And in such a literate market!

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Heading to Chicago: If you had time for only two meals in downtown Chicago (lunch and dinner), where would you go? (Yes, I've checked your Postcards from 2003 and 2005.) Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: For lunch, I'd go to Topolobampo, chef Rick Bayless's fabulous Mexican dining room in River North (just watch the margarita consumption!)

For dinner, I'd be inclined to head to Publican, the first-rate American tavern on W. Fulton Market. Great service. Great brews. Great pork. Great fun.

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Washington, D.C.: Speaking of first dates, my husband of 42 years took me out frog gigging in rural Virginia on our first date. We took our haul home to his apartment where we cooked them. I had (and have) eaten frogs legs all my life but they were certainly the most memorable ones I ever ate.

How could anybody pass up a guy like that?

Tom Sietsema: Um, well ... he doesn't sound dull!

Thanks for the good laugh, Washington.

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Rockville, Md.: Will Michael Landrum EVER have a Web site up for his restaurants, to make it easier to find his restaurants, dining hours and menus?

Tom Sietsema: Maybe Mark can nudge him in that direction?

Time's up, folks. Thanks for tuning in. See you next Wednesday.

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