Talk About Travel: Berlin, London, Florence on the Itinerary, Plus Your Best (and Worst) Cliche Travel Experiences

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The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, April 6, 2009; 2:00 PM

Have a travel-related question, comment, suspicion, warning, gripe, sad tale or happy ending? The Post Travel Section Flight Crew is at your service. On the itinerary this week: anniversaries across Europe -- Berlin is marking 20 years since the Wall came down, London is the place to be for Darwin's 200th birthday, and Florence is celebrating 400 years of Galileo's favorite instrument, the telescope.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.

Andrea Sachs: Welcome back, travelers. Hope you are not too soggy on this wet (now sunny) Monday. Today, we have a full house, so send us your travel questions and needs. Scott, by the way, just returned from NASCAR (watching, not driving) and Christina is headed to San Francisco tomorrow and has done loads of pre-trip research.

I don't know if she is going to ride the Rice-a-Roni trolley or catch the seals at Fisherman's Wharf, but tell us about the most cliched activity you have ever done and whether it was a boon or a bust. Best story wins a prize.

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Tallahassee Fla.: I'd like to second your suggestion that Mom who wants to travel internationally, but solo, consider Elderhostel. I took my first solo overseas trip with Elderhostel recently, and found my fellows an active, intelligent, curious bunch, most experienced travelers, and easy to get along with, no whiners. I never ate a meal alone, and there was a good mix of learning and free time. When the budget allows, I'll do it again.

Christina Talcott: Thanks for the report! I'm glad you had such a good time.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi Crew - We've been invited to Hilton Head for a wedding in July, but are shocked by the airfare (especially considering we just got a RT to Los Angeles for under $200 pp). The lowest I can find is a one stop for $250, and that's sending us through Detroit! We are traveling with two preschoolers, and so a non-stop is preferred. Is there something I'm missing? Charters? Package deals? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Carol Sottili: I don't think you're missing anything. It's expensive to fly into small airports that don't host a discount carrier. You could try fares into Charleston or Savannah, but my guess is they won't be all that much cheaper, plus you'll then have to drive. I'd probably keep checking airfares hoping for a sale. US Airways is one of the main carriers -- keep checking its Web site. And sign up for sale alerts at several travel booking sites, such as www.priceline.com and www.orbitz.com.

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follow up to cruising in August: Thanks for taking my question last week about going on a cruise out of Baltimore in August and needing trip insurance to cover hurricanes. A follow up question, because now I'm confused: if there is a hurricane, assuming it's not hitting Baltimore, the cruise will still happen we'll just go to different ports? If there's no way the cruise can happen, would we just be refunded our money?

Thanks for your help!

Carol Sottili: Unless the hurricane is hitting Baltimore, which is pretty unlikely, that ship will go somewhere. The chances of it being cancelled are slim to none.

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Cliched activity: OK, here goes:

While in Salzburg, my friends and I took the Sound of Music Tour. My favorite movie!

Part of the tour involved the gazebo used in the scene with Liesel and Rolf (then later with Maria and the Captain).

Cheesy, I know, but in that gazebo, on the benches, I felt so connected to the movie!

Andrea Sachs: Now, you have me singing like Julie Andrews.

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Pasadena, Calif: Kind of an odd question that I've been wondering about. A couple times while overseas I've been asked to surrender my passport by hotel or resort staff. I've always refused. The staff has never made a major stink about it but is refusing to surrender my passport the right thing to do?

Scott Vogel: You can try it, but don't be surprised if you're refused accommodation in retaliation. Passports are requested for all kinds of reasons: sometimes proprietors do it to ensure you won't check out without paying the bill, other times it's because local police demand it. Always carry photocopies of your passport with you while on trips, and offer to submit one of those first. And if you do think you'll be asked to surrender documents, make sure you have US embassy/consulate contact info with you.

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Paris to Istanbul: Hi -- I'm hoping to fly from D.C. to Paris for a couple days, then to Istanbul. Do you know of any charter/cheaper European flights for the Paris-Istanbul leg?

Thank you!

Carol Sottili: I don't believe that any of the discount carriers in Europe fly between those two destinations. Anyone know differently?

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Berlin: Leaving for Berlin later this week for a last minute trip (how can you pass up $430 RT w/taxes?). Nice bunker story too.

I will see the sights, but in D.C., I'm more of the hanging out on U Street/H St. NE type of guy rather than going to Georgetown or seeing the Cherry Blossoms.

Anyone have a suggestion that I shouldn't miss in that vein? I see the weather is going to be fairly nice for the first half of the trip, so outdoors would be a plus!

Scott Vogel: Thanks and great question. My suggestion is to check out the multi-ethnic, multicultural Kreuzberg district, with its great collection of Turkish restaurants and alternative scene. But I'm sure our chatters have some ideas of their own. Let's hear 'em!

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Union Station, D.C.: Thanks for the chats! My husband and I are thinking about going to Belgium in October for our 10th anniversary. It's been a long time since I've done any international traveling and I'm not sure how to pick a flight beyond price and timing. Are there certain airlines to avoid? Iberia keeps popping up in my searches and I've never heard of it. Right now, nonstops from D.C. to Brussels are over $1000. The cheapest flight I'm seeing is $709 on American with a stop in N.Y. Thanks!

Carol Sottili: $709 round trip with all taxes and one stop in New York isn't bad for October travel. If the connections are decent, I would probably buy that. United flies nonstop, but it's much more expensive. Also check Delta's fares.

Iberia is an Spanish airline -- it's been around for a long time. Like many airlines, it's been in and out of financial trouble. I believe it and British Airways are now attempting a merger.

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D.C.: I have a wedding in the Netherlands in mid-Sept. I would like to spend some time traveling around (at least to one other country) prior to the wedding. I don't really have any preference aside from somewhere new. I've been to Ireland, England, Belgium before. The main criteria would be price and friendly to single female travelers (as I would be alone). Any ideas for that time of year? I also like to avoid tourist traps.

Christina Talcott: That's such a great time to travel, especially in Europe! Have you ever been to France? It's an easy train ride from the Netherlands, and Paris is a wonderful place to spend a few solo days. Prices are way down there and elsewhere in Europe, so you should be able to find someplace reasonable to stay, and if you're conscientious about picnicking instead of eating every meal at a restaurant, you can really keep costs down. Smaller cities like Strasburg, Rouen, Tours, Lyon and others are less touristy than Paris but still have plenty to do. Brittany, Normandy or even the Riviera could be wonderful that time of year. Germany's another nearby option, or, if you're willing to go a little farther away, why not visit Copenhagen or Stockholm? As far as single female travelers, just do a little research into what areas of town should be avoided, and generally use common sense, and you should be fine, safety-wise. Single women traveling alone are pretty common in Europe.

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DC: Looking to take a last minute trip to NYC for a few days and would love recommendations for inexpensive places to stay -- I don't need fancy, just clean and quiet. Thank you!

Andrea Sachs: I am a fan of Chelsea Star Hotel (near Penn Station, though it has a European hostel vibe) and the Pod Hotel (midtown east). Prices are also dropping hotelwide, due to the economy and the Wall Street fallout. Check the NYC tourism office's Web site (nycgo.com) for deals and ideas.

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For Berlin-bound: I went a few years ago with my brother and we both loved the Checkpoint Charlie Museum -- it shows all the ingenious ways people tried to get out of East Berlin before the wall came down and is semi-interactive, you get to examine cars and see the hiding places, etc.

Andrea Sachs: Very cool. Sounds like a real-life Spy Museum.

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Pennsylvania: Cliched activity: Kissing the Blarney Stone. A few years ago, my husband and I went to Ireland with another couple. I wasn't particularly interested in kissing the Blarney Stone, but we were there and it seemed like the thing to do, so we stood in the Very Long Line to kiss the stone. (I don't think it made me any more articulate.) But we did get a funny story out of it. My friend and I were waiting at the bottom of the tower for our husbands to come down. We were chatting together, when a British woman came up to us and said, "You girls have such beautiful teeth. Do you get them whitened?" We laughed and thanked her and said, no, our teeth were just naturally white. She was surprised, and said that she thought all Americans got their teeth whitened. (This was a few years ago before whitening became really popular.) My dentist really enjoyed the story.

Andrea Sachs: You should have told her the Blarney Stone has teeth whitening powers.

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Turistissimo: During a semester in Italy in the late 70s, one of my classmates hoarded 5-lire coins (which were worth less than a penny). By the end of the semester, she had hundreds of them. She went to the Trevi Fountain and threw them in over her shoulder one at a time. Alas, we've lost touch, so I don't know if she's been back to Italy hundreds of times since then.

Andrea Sachs: She might still be scouring the streets for coins.

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Little Falls, Minn.: Berlin: Must see the Wannsee Conference House (on Grosser Wannsee which is a lake in the Zehlendorf area of Berlin). The house (estate) where Nazis met on 'final solution' is incredibly well-worth the time. No admission, if I recall, but donations accepted.

washingtonpost.com: In Berlin, Building a Future on a Troubled Past (The Washington Post, April 5, 2009)

Scott Vogel: A very good suggestion. For information, please see the House of the Wannsee Conference Web site: www.ghwk.de.

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Atlanta: Went to swim with the dolphins when I was in the Bahamas (through the cruise we were on). It was fantastic. Wonderful. Couldn't have been better. So much fun.

SO MUCH MONEY too. And then we absolutely had to buy the overpriced pix at the end.

Andrea Sachs: Dolphins have the cutest smiles, no?

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi, everyone!

My husband and I are moving to Japan this summer -- my hubby is active duty military. We just found out that we need to fly back here just 3 weeks after we move for a family wedding in August. We've been looking at tickets from NRT to IAD and they're around $1100 each. Is this reasonable or should we wait to book them in hopes that the prices will go down? P.S: These are not non-stop flights, they stop in LAX and then land in IAD. Thanks for all your helpful tips!

Carol Sottili: United, which flies nonstop, occasionally has sale fares to Tokyo, but they're not all that common. Have you tried asking for their military fare? Go to www.united.com for details. Other airlines, such as Continental, are typically cheaper, but they connect. Also, try ticketing separately from here to Los Angeles, and then from Los Angeles to Tokyo -- sometimes much cheaper.

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San Francisco, Calif.: Another cheer for the Sound of Music tour in Salzburg! I took the version provided by Bob's Tours and it included visit to a luge course (extra $$ for the luge ticket) -- it was great!

Anyway, here's a tip for visitors to Berlin. If you have some lead time, you can write in advance to the Visitor's Service office for a tour in English of the Reichstag. Not only is it very interesting, but you don't have to wait in that long line to go up to the dome on the roof. See this link for details.

Andrea Sachs: Sing loud for SOM. And thanks for the tip!

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Maryland: A few friends and I are turning thirty this year and are looking to take a trip together to celebrate. We are thinking of renting a house in the Outer Banks in early September. How is this time of year in N.C.? It'd be nice to sit on the beach; will this be possible? Also, is anything (restaurants, etc.) open in the off season?

Carol Sottili: It's beautiful in early September. Still very warm, you can still swim in the ocean, most everything is open and it's much quieter than August.

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Arlington, Va.: My most cliched activity that was a bust was when I was in grad school in London in the summer of 2001. Classmates of mine and most of the travel guidebooks recommended Madame Tussauds. So, during one of my free afternoons, I went, queued up (which is a 45-minute line) and paid the exorbitant ticket price.

The London history ride was okay, but did I really need to spend 25 pounds and waste 2-3 hours to see a bunch of wax figures? Lesson learned: Madame Tussauds is the most overhyped and overpriced tourist trap in London.

If I had that time back, I would have checked out the one of the places I didn't have the time to see while I was there -- such as the Tate or Victoria and Albert.

Andrea Sachs: I think those waxy sculptures are creepy. Better to go for a nice dinner in London and mold the candle wax into Michael Jackson's nose.

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Washington, D.C.: Greetings, Flight Crew, and thanks for that wonderful package on Europe.

I'm flying overseas next week and noticed today that airfare has gone down over $200 for my itinerary, which was booked directly through an airline. Wondering if you all have any tips or tricks to negotiate the price down at least a little bit, or am I pretty much stuck with what I've got? (It should be said that I'm not above groveling/begging.) Thanks!

Carol Sottili: I'd call and ask. Airline will probably not refund, but may give you vouchers to use on another fight. Can never hurt to grovel.

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Best Cliche Tourist Experience: Years ago, pre-Katrina, the nonprofit I worked for had their annual conference in New Orleans. Us staffers ran around like ants for days, without ever really seeing the city. So on our last day, with a few hours to spare before we had to get in cabs for the airport, we decided to flag down a fleet of horse-drawn carriages for a tour of the French Quarter.

It was hands-down one of the best tours of my life. It was still pretty early in the day, so the guides were feeling fresh, and there was no small amount of heckling and challenging from carriage to carriage from both the drivers and the riders. The narrative was fascinating, the weather was gorgeous, and all of us were thrilled to finally be doing something completely recreational after days of working round the clock. It was just wonderful.

Andrea Sachs: That sounds so enchanting.

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Blacksburg, Va.: Hi, thank you for reading this even if your don't have space to print it. My husband and I are long-time Darwin enthusiasts. We very much enjoyed the comments in yesterday's travel article about Darwin in London, and would like to make a couple more suggestions for traveling to seek historic locations that are maybe even more interesting (although visiting Down House is probably absolutely essential. Cambridge: CD had close ties with the university all his life and the university is pulling out all stops this year to celebrate the relationship. Cambridge city is far prettier and more interesting that Oxford in any case, and always worth a day or two. Shrewsbury, in the West Midlands (near the Welsh border) is Darwin's birthplace and where he grew up doing science (chemistry) experiments with his brother and collecting insects. Like Cambridge, the city is going all out this "year of Darwin," and like Cambridge it's a charming place, built on hills, full of medieval half-timbered buildings as well as Georgian houses and churches. The West Midlands seems to be shunned by American tourists, but it's beautiful country to drive through. Ludlow is a smaller town near Shrewsbury, also on a steep hill, with a well-preserved castle and a lovely view of the Welsh mountains nearby. Sorry to go on and on. Checking out the tourist web sites for Cambridge and Shrewsbury should bet anyone started who might be tired of London, Shakespeare Country, York, etc. (yawn).

washingtonpost.com: London Revels in Anniversaries of Sex and Scandal (The Washington Post, April 5, 2009)

Scott Vogel: That's what we love about the web -- unlimited space! Thanks for all this great info.

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Washington DC: Speaking of New York, is there a bus line you'd recommend that is clean, safe and likely to arrive without the bus breaking down (I hear this happens a lot)? I have an anti-bus bias but they are so much cheaper than flying or taking the train. I'd like to try it if there's a good line. Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: I have had good rides on Megabus and Bolt. The buses are not foolproof (one picked us about a half-hour late), but pretty reliable. Just have flexible dinner plans.

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Oxford, UK: I have been to Berlin many times, it's one of my absolute favorite places. If it's a nice day, go to a beer garden! Here's my recommendation. The food is great, beer is even better. Prosit!

Scott Vogel: Great idea -- Wanted to do the same thing but was there in February.

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Alexandria, Va.: I have two cheesy tourist activities. First: A gondola ride with my boyfriend (now husband) in Venice. Overpriced, to be sure, but totally worth it, especially when we had to shift around to fit the boat under some bridges. Gave the tour a more authentic-feeling experience.

The second thing we did was a horse-and-carriage ride through Dublin. Very touristy idea, but ours was unique in that we were being driven by a 14-year-old. We think he wasn't actually a tour guide, was just holding the carriage for his dad. Gave us a very interesting tour of Dublin in which he told us that the area where political buildings were was actually Dublin's Red Light District. And so forth. I think we were truly "taken for a ride," but it was fun, and we arrived back safely.

Andrea Sachs: You are the Queen of Cliche Transportation. Love it.

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Union Station: Beginning to think about planning a beach vacation for the summer. Wondering if there's any word on whether MD/DE or NC beaches are feeling the pinch of the economy and if rates will be cheaper this summer and if bookings are down. If so, anyone heard of any deals? I just briefly checked on a couple of places in OC for a few days in July and rates were still really high, so it made me wonder if people will stay close to home, say within 3 hours, and that's why rates are high. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Carol Sottili: I've talked with several hotel/condo rental reps in Ocean City, and they say high-end places are doing well and low-end places are doing well but middle-of-the-road accommodations are still open. Hotels in July, especially for just a couple of days, are not going to offer discounts, especially so early in the game. Perhaps if you wait until last minute, you'll be able to negotiate a better deal -- if there is still availability.

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MD 'burbs: Our extended family of 10 wants to take our first cruise together. Past vacations together have mostly been in rented beach houses, that sort of thing. Question is, will we be able to find some sort of space with a level of privacy for when we all want to hang out together, play cards, etc. on the ship? Obviously, our rooms are out of the question for size reasons, so what other options on the ship for togetherness will we have, if any?

Carol Sottili: Ten of us went on a Carnival cruise last year, and we had no trouble finding little nooks to hang out in. We also got rooms with connecting balconies, which was wonderful -- I'd highly recommend splurging for that.

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Washington, D.C.: What is the best time to travel to London on the cheapest fare?

Carol Sottili: February.

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Washington, D.C.: Hiya Crew. Quick question for you: my fella and I are planning a trip to St. Kitts in early June and I was wondering what reasonable airfare prices might be. Right now I'm seeing between $550-600 RT, per person. Think we can do better? Should we wait on booking? Thanks for your help!

Andrea Sachs: That seems like a ballpark figure, since St. Kitts is not a common route and rarely if ever goes on sale. If you like the price, book it.

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Kissing the Blarney Stone: Am I the only one who has heard a rumor that the locals have been known to use the Blarney Stone as a commode after a night out, who then find it very amusing to watch tourists kiss it the next day?

Andrea Sachs: Ick. I am keeping my kisses to myself from now on.

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Virginia : I'm flying into Paris and out of Nice this summer. Would an airline consolidator be able to beat current fares of between $1,080 and $1,400 on Orbitz, Sidestep, etc? Or do they only make discounts available a few days in advance of the departure date?

Carol Sottili: You could try www.vayama.com. As for discounts just a few days in advance, I wouldn't count on that.

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Edison, N.J.: I'm going on a delayed honeymoon to Italy this May. The husband and I will be visiting Rome and Florence over two weeks, and renting apartments in both cities to keep costs low.

We both love to cook and wondered: will we be able to find markets in any area of these cities? We're keen on doing some cooking for ourselves.

And if we wanted to splurge for a day or two, would you have any suggestions for food-centric things we could do? We're thinking a country getaway, cooking lessons, anything that involves parma ham, etc.

Nancy McKeon: Hello, Edison. In Florence, the Mercato Centrale should feed your needs; in Rome, try the Campo de' Fiori, which is outdoor and early every day (through, maybe, noon? I don't remember). My own prejudices are showing through here, but I think all those Italian cooking classes in country houses are way overpriced and not really worth it.

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Lyme, Conn.: As a Connecticut resident visiting California year ago, I was told of a restaurant that had the best Bay Scallops in all of San Francisco. I went, ordered the bay scallops, and as the server brought them to me, he announced "today, you are very lucky, we have scallops flown in today fresh from Connecticut."

Andrea Sachs: You could have stayed home! My dad once bought a kite in New Zealand and turns out it was made 10 minutes from our house in Massachusetts.

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Graceland: I plan to travel with my wife to Italy next summer to celebrate our 25th. A number of our friends have expressed interest in coming along. I would like to have a group, but I do not want to fall victim of group think (everyone has to agree before we choose a eatery, etc.).

How many is too many?

We will go to Rome, but where else should we go? Venice or Florence? Tuscany or Capri?

We plan to be in country about a week.

Thanks.

Christina Talcott: Ooh boy, I shuddered when I read your question. It's not that traveling with friends isn't fun -- it's just that it can be really taxing, especially if you and your travel companions have different styles, expectations, energy levels, etc. Even the best location can be ruined by one picky eater, museum-hater, whatever.

Of course, the most important question is: How does your wife feel about spending her anniversary with a group? If she's happy to share the experience, here's what I would recommend: Spend a few days with just your wife in Rome, then meet up with friends and rent a house somewhere in the countryside. If you want to stay in Rome, say, or meet your friends in Florence, another option would be booking a tour for everyone; hiring a guide who will drive you around and explain all the sites can be a wonderful way to see a city, and much more economical if done with a big group.

As for meals, if you pick a place and let people decide only whether to join you or go somewhere else, that could take some of the "let's all agree" pressure off. And as for numbers, I'd say four is plenty, possibly six. A group any bigger means it might be hard to get tables at restaurants, etc. I've had lots of fun traveling with three other people; the one time there were five of us, we ended up splitting up briefly one afternoon just to get some time alone.

Anyone out there with experience in group trips?

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most clilched travel trip: "The hills are alive, with the sound of bus tours ..."

Salzburg, summer 1985. part of a six-week, post college, see as much of Europe as you can trip. Despite all the Mozart available to hear and eat (marzipan Wolfgangs anyone?) the biggest draw was anything Sound of Music related. My companion and I decided to do the SOM bus tour. Five minutes in we started to regret it. The soundtrack piped over the loudspeakers, the guide tried gamely to get everyone to sing along. Told lame SOM jokes. We stopped at the movie Von Trapp house and guide made everyone get out at the gazebo (moved to the road by the owners) and jump from bench to bench while he sang "I am 16 Going on 17". We were trapped!

Until the bus headed out of Salzburg to the small town where the interior wedding scene was filmed in a local church. We drove through the most glorious scenery as the bus took windy roads away from the city. The soundtrack was turned off for the drive and you could take in the sights and smells (it had rained earlier and the sun was coming out). The small town clearly made some money off the film (the producers had paid to have the church restored and it was gorgeous inside) so there was kitschy touristy stuff for sale.

But we never would have gotten out into the beautiful countryside if it hadn't been for the movie tour and the photos of that part of the trip are still cherished.

I can watch the movie now (with the sound off) and think of that bus ride.

Andrea Sachs: Definitely a Tourist Trapp, eh?

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re: Berlin: Ditto what everyone has said, especially Kreuzberg. My sister lived in Kreuzberg for a year, and visiting her was one of the best experiences of my life. Grab a doner kebab for sure while you're there! Checkpoint Charlie was great, but if I had to choose I would definitely pick the Wannsee House.

Don't miss Treptow Park (HUGE Soviet...uh, shrine?) and Potsdamer Platz. Just walk, seriously! The whole city is an amazing capsule of very rich, living history.

Scott Vogel: Totally agree. And one of the biggest surprises for me as a first-time visitor was just how green and walkable the city is. And you couldn't pick a more interesting time to visit.

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Buses to NYC: Vamoose bus works well for me from Bethesda to Mid-town. $25 each way, Several departures every day, on-time service the handful of times I've taken it.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the NYC bus tip.

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New York: For Berlin-bound: There are some really nice boat tours through Berlin that are worthwhile even if they're all in German and you don't speak German (they give you a card to follow along). It's a nice and unusual way to see the city!

Scott Vogel: Thanks, I've heard those are great too.

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Cliche, cliche: I went for a quick weekend to NYC a few years back. It's when I realized that my BF and I weren't going to work out. We hit every landmark tourist spot around, all of the ones the bored hotel concierge pointed out when asked by my BF "what not miss while in NYC". Duck tours, Statue of Liberty etc., capped off with a nauseating trip to the top of the Empire State Building.

It was nauseating because of the August heat, packed like sardines into elevators and waiting in lines monitored with military precision. All of those sweaty, angry people, yelling at their kids & bumping into others as they have to stop and take pictures from each angle. The sad thing was that everyone seemed to be there for the same reason - it was a must-see destination that needed checking off the list. They'd get to the top, look around, snap obligatory pictures and head back down. It was so mechanical.

And the boyfriend epiphany came about because I evidently don't like having my entire day planned from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. hitting all of the spots on the brochure. Having a bit of structure and lots more free time to wander is more relaxing to me.

Andrea Sachs: Travel is the best test for a relationship. Sounds like he did not pass.

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Boulder, Colo.: I try to get in at least one cliched activity when I travel -- who knows if or when I'll ever return? Some I've done in the past:

- Crossing Abbey Road ala the Beatles in London

- Pretending to chop off my ex-boyfriend's head at the Tower of London (maybe that's why he's my ex?)

- Visiting Mannekin Pis in Brussels

- Taking a hop on/off bus tour of Glasgow and Seattle

We're going to Ireland this summer and I definitely plan on kissing the Blarney Stone!

Andrea Sachs: Before you do, just clean the stone first (just in case the previous chatter was correct about using the stone as a commode).

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Bay Area, California: In the mid-90s I had a July business trip to Memphis. The first day's meeting didn't start until 10 a.m. and Graceland opens at 8 a.m., so... I got up the equivalent of 4:30 a.m. PT and my colleague and I arrived at the staging area around 7:35 a.m.. The two of us were in business attire -- skirts, hose and heels -- so we kinda stood out amidst the other tourists in their shorts and t-shirts. We were in the first tour group and managed to complete the tour, buy beautifully tacky souvenirs and get back to our hotel by 9:25 a.m. Definitely worth it!

Andrea Sachs: Elvis thanks you from above -- or around the corner. Wherever he is these days.

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Hilton Head: Um, HH and Savannah are the same airport, so trying Savannah won't help. I have found good fares to Savannah on Expedia. Last November we flew United direct from DCA for about $200 each. There used to be flights from Dulles and BWI, but I know some carriers have eliminated Savannah from their routes, so maybe not as many options now.

Carol Sottili: I believe Hilton Head also has a separate regional airport. Anyway, I don't see any airfares of $200 right now to either airport.

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Falls Church, Va.: My family enjoys vacationing at all-inclusive resorts (we love Nemacolin and the Homestead). Now that my 8-year old has been diagnosed with Celiac Disease, we need to eat a gluten-free diet. Do you know of any all-inclusive resorts that can accommodate a gluten-free diet, particularly on the kids food items (chicken nuggets, french fries, etc.)? We would like to be with 4 hours of D.C., or in New England.

Nancy McKeon: I found a celiac guesthouse on Lake Garda in northern Italy, but I think you're going to have to spend some time on the celiactravel.com site. I didn't find lists of resorts, rather tips to help you sort through the offerings of mainstream restaurants, including diet cards. Good luck. Maybe celiac support groups can offer more help.

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Re: Blacksburg: My husband and I have been vacationing in London three or four times a year since we honeymooned there 27 years ago. Every time we leave it is with regret that we didn't get to do something we had hoped to do. The rest of your post is very informative, but like Samuel Johnson, I don't understand the concept of "tired of London."

Scott Vogel: Agreed!

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NY, NY: So I'm planning my annual trip home to Helsinki for a couple of weeks this summer, and am watching fares like a hawk. I found a round-trip on SAS for about $950, including taxes and fees. Do you think I should grab it while I can or wait it out? I've been spoiled in the past (got a $650 round trip a couple of years ago) so I'm a bit trigger-shy. But fares seem to be hovering at a bit above $1000 lately. Sigh.

Carol Sottili: I'd wait a couple of weeks. Experts think summer fares are softening.

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Reston, Va.: I have a beach house near Hilton Head. The only way to go is nonstop United, Dulles to Savannah. It's a 75 minute flight, with a 30 min drive after that. When I first bought the place, I tried the Charlotte connection to HH and frequently got hung up. Don't do it. Use Savannah. A very pleasant airport experience, too.

Carol Sottili: Thanks.

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Washington, D.C.: For Berlin, there is an incredible museum in the eastern part, the Pergamon, which has Greek and Roman temples inside. Zoo was nice enough, Berlin a little edgy. Florence is best experienced near the Arno River which appears to be silver, Birth of Venus easy to find in Uffizi, nice stores near Duomo and outdoor market is fun. London has Graham Norton in La Cage aux Folles and oh yes, Her Majesty the Queen, aged 82.

Scott Vogel: More great suggestions Europe-wise, thanks.

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To the Hilton Head traveler: It is very expensive to travel via plane there. But I'd suggest one of two things. Drive, it's about 8-9 hrs, with kids, leave about 4 a.m. while they are still sleeping, stop about 8 for breakfast and then continue on. Or if you just can't possibly drive that long, look into flying into Atlanta and renting a car from there, it should only take you about 4 hours or less depending on traffic. We've done both and both worked for us. Although I'd just drive the whole way, you could even go from here to the S.C. border and stop and spend the night.

Carol Sottili: My son went to school in Myrtle Beach, and we just drove. It wasn't worth the cost of flying.

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Reston, Va.: P.S.: I used miles (i.e. free) to go down to Hilton Head over July 4th weekend, so it can't be all that bad right now. $300 should do it for a RT nonstop ticket...

Carol Sottili: $300 seems like a lot of money to get to a place that takes only nine hours to drive. Yes, I know distance has nothing to do with airfares.

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San Francisco bound: A question for Christina: I'm headed for Napa and Sonoma for week next month and wondered if your extensive research on San Fran included the wine country?

If so, any recommendations for restaurants there? And what about the Wine Train? I've heard varying opinions on the train from incredibly tacky to lots of fun...your take?

Christina Talcott: Hmm, I've never been on the Wine Train, but I've heard that the food isn't great and it is a little cheesy, so some people say it's not worth the hefty price tag. That said, if you like trains, the price doesn't bother you and you just want to see the scenery, it could be a nice way to spend a few hours.

I'm heading to Calistoga area and have heard great things about the breakfast calzones at BarVino and plan to stock up on picnic fare at Cal Mart. If I find any gems up there, I'll report back!

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Crew,

I have seen lots of specials for European travel through May/June. I was wondering if you believe we will see these types of specials for October travel?

Thanks!

Carol Sottili: Not yet, but likely if economy stays depressed.

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Boston: I want to take my honeymoon in South America in October. Since there will be a number of internal flights, is it better to go through a travel agent or try to do it ourselves? How would we find a travel agent that specializes in this? I've heard it's better to use ones based in the area you're traveling to.

Andrea Sachs: Booking inter-flights in a foreign country can be tricky, since you often have to fly the domestic airline. So much booking today is online, so you can do it youselves. Just be sure to print out all confirmations and be aware if you are paying in their currency or ours. To make it easier, you can book through a travel agent, who will assess a fee for the service. I would go through a U.S.-based agent, to eliminate any cultural confusions. Check the American Society of Travel Agents' online data base for agents who specialize in South America.

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Paris to Istanbul: Look at www.euroflights.info for budget airlines in Europe

Carol Sottili: Good resource. But it confirms no discount carriers between those two cities.

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Bethesda, Md.: Re the most cliched activity: If there was a World's Largest Ball of Twine, my husband would make a bee line for it. Alas, a few years ago, on a drive to the Midwest, we took a hundred or so mile detour to see the Tree of Pliers -- that is, 511 working pliers carved out of a single block of wood, with the biggest pliers on the bottom and the smaller ones branching off. Oddly enough, it was interesting. And it gave me a good idea of the kind of sightseeing he'd insist on in coming years.

Andrea Sachs: Giant hardware sculptures? If only the Mona Lisa was hoisting a shovel.

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Boulder, Colo.: re The Blarney Stone. A friend of ours was in Ireland at a pub not to far from the Stone -- the locals there told them it's definitely used as a commode by pranksters. Who knows? I'll just take anti-bacterial wipes!

Andrea Sachs: Smart: Wipe, then pucker up.

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Hilton Head: Um, that person has no idea what they are talking about. Use the posts from someone who owns a beach house!

There are two airports. HH on HH Island, and SAV.

Dulles has direct flights, and in fact always has. I've been using the shuttle from IAD for 3 years now. It's set up so that you could LITERALLY commute from Savannah to your job in metro DC, if you so chose. I've done it before.

Carol Sottili: I thought there were two airports. Confusion probably comes from airport name Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport.

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Washington, D.C.: A recommended cliche: I reluctantly went on the Circle Line boat tour around Manhattan but had a great time. I've visited the city dozens of times, but the view from the water is a totally different experience than walking around town. Not only do you see all the famous sights from a new perspective, you also get to see parts of the city that you'd never get to on land, including surprisingly rural-looking areas on the northeastern tip of the island.

Andrea Sachs: In my opinion, any boat ride is a good ride. Even if they looped Sinatra.

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Fare Drops: The "other" paper had a story about this last week. Frontier and Spirit, no way. UA, AA, DL, and CO will re-fare to a voucher less the $150 administrative service fee. Southwest and JetBlue do not charge a fee. United didn't until last month. This is for domestic flights.

Carol Sottili: But I've heard from several travel experts that the airlines have become looser about following these rules to the letter. Some have been nicer about giving out vouchers.

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Pittsburgh: Not cheesy, but I didn't expect to be so moved:

The interpretive program at Fort McHenry in Baltimore, re the War of 1812, Francis Scott Key's the writing of the lyrics "The Star Spangled Banner" -- and the opening of the curtains to see the flag at the end.

This was 30+ years ago when we still lived in Maryland, so I don't know if it's changed, but I assume that whatever they have now is still moving.

Andrea Sachs: Great suggestion. Thanks!

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I'm going to San Francisco too!!!: I'll be in San Francisco next week. Christina, care to share any of that pre-trip research? I'm going with my mom, who's in her 60s (I'm in my 30s). Any suggestions for a relaxing itinerary? I've booked a Segway tour for us; I'm hoping it'll be a fun way to see the city that won't be too hard on her knees (those hills are killer!).

Christina Talcott: That sounds like a great trip! I'm really excited about visiting Angel Island and Alcatraz; alcatrazcruises.com has a combo package for $58, and it's an all-day trip with stops at both islands. There's a tram tour of Angel Island that's very popular, and the newly-restored immigration center there sounds fascinating. Another relaxing idea is visiting the Kabuki Springs and Spa, a Japanese-style bath houses in Japantown, with communal baths, sauna and steam room (www.kabukisprings.com). It's free if you're staying at Hotel Kabuki, $22-$25 for day-use. Another fun way to see the city without doing too much walking is taking the California Street cable car (as one of our chatters just pointed out). Other ideas out there for a mom and daughter trip?

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Group travel on the Silver Anniversary: My husband liked to show off his native country. He organized trips there for 16 (12 non-family). It worked because he did all the preparations and planning. If someone wanted to eat elsewhere/do something else, it was on their own dime. Most liked what was on the itinerary. Are the friends wanting to go so they can piggy pack on the husband's planning? Do they know Italy? We did a 20th anniversary trip and I wouldn't have wanted extras along. We did a tour, UK based, but we don't expect to see the people again.

Christina Talcott: That sounds like a great trip -- having the host do all the planning and the others picking and choosing activities and meals.

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Burke, Va.: Hi gang (especially Ms. Sotilli) -- I need to haul my heavy packing family to Atlanta to a wedding next month and see Southwest doesn't fly there. Are there other major domestic carriers that don't charge for checked luggage?

Carol Sottili: Delta and AirTran, the two major carriers to Atlanta, both charge for bags. Tell them to pack lighter!

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another HH idea: Amtrak goes to Savannah and you could rent a car from there. Is train travel better or worse for kids? I would think better.

Best tacky tourist experience: a horsedrawn carriage in Charleston, S.C. A wonderful, slow way to see the city. I don't usually jump at tours like that but they can be very enjoyable.

Carol Sottili: My guess is that it's just as expensive to take the train as it is to fly.

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Family, Cruising: On my last (of 4) family cruises there were 18 of us ... matching t-shirts and all. (I'm not proud of it!)

We asked the cruise line if there was a room we could use for a "family meeting" and they had no problem providing one. We've never had a problem staking out a lounge or sitting area for family gatherings either.

Carol Sottili: You're as goofy as I am. I was in charge of ordering the matching shirts!

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Hilton Head: Amtrak to Savannah, then rent a car. A really nice trip.

Carol Sottili: Yes, but is it cheap?

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June to Panama City, Fla.: My 19 year old needs to go to Tyndall AFB for a Civil Air Patrol Summer Activity. The dates are set in late June, and are Sunday to Saturday. Current flight costs are about $400 with one stop. Is this as cheap as it will get? There is little flexibility on arrival times, none on dates.

Andrea Sachs: When I checked I found $400 as well. That seems a bit high, though, because it is off-season. If you fly midweek, you might find lower fares. Or wait to see if there are summer Florida sales.

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OBX in September: The water is the warmest in September. There isn't as much in terms of crowds then too because of school back in session.

But, it's a pretty safe bet to say that if you are traveling for a week there that there is about a 20 percent chance your trip will get interrupted by some hurricane or tropical storm. The place can handle it. It means a day is lost. If it is something serious then they will order evacuations.

Carol Sottili: I've been evacuated a couple of times. You do take your chances.

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surrendering a passport: some countries, by law, require at a minimum that the hotel operator take a copy of the passport. many countries, unlike ours, have "official" identity papers that people are supposed to carry with them. The passport thing is enforced a lot less in Europe than it used to be, and often a copy will suffice, but some really will hold and keep it until you check out. which makes things like cashing travellers cheques interesting.

Scott Vogel: Thanks.

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re: cruising: We just went on one, and I also have a little experience with the cruise industry. They NEVER don't go. They ALWAYS find a way. The cruise director on the cruise I was on said that during hurricane season, they may do different stuff, go to different places, etc, but you always go. AND...the biggie...they never go unless every single cabin is occupied.

Carol Sottili: Thanks.

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Airline Vouchers: If you are ever bumped or volunteer to get bumped. don't do the free flight voucher. Take airline cash instead or force them to compensate you in court. Nowadays it is virtually impossible to book a flight unless you plan on doing it 11 months in advance when the calendar opens for booking flights.

Also if you plan on traveling to a destination look at many different options. If you want to travel to San Diego, also look to fly into the LA airports, Palm Springs, or Vegas. If you are flying out of D.C., look for airports from Richmond to Philly.

One time I had a voucher and I traveled out west. I couldn't get to my destination. I booked the voucher into the bay area and then booked seperately to my destination.

Personally I think there should be some regulation that says an airline must provide a larger plane or more flights if capacity becomes greater than say 75% overall.

If flights are canceled at a major hub look for utter disaster with trying to rebook your flights.

Scott Vogel: Thanks for the report.

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Washington, D.C.: London tourist thing I wish I had skipped: Jack the Ripper tour.

London tourist thing I wish I had done more of: Ghosts and pubs walking tour.

I also took the train and a commuter bus up to Edwinstowe because my sister wanted me to go to Sherwood Forest for her. Was there less than 12 hours, but she got a t-shirt and pictures of "the tree Robin Hood may have sat in" and "church where Robin Hood and Maid Marian may have gotten married in." Just because I'm a nice sister.

Andrea Sachs: You deserve a big chunk of Robin Hood's bag of goodies.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hello, I'm looking for fun things to do in the San Francisco area. We have spent a lot of time in the city and want to get out a bit. We will have two days, a car, and a three year old. North or south of San Fran is fine with us. Any ideas?

Christina Talcott: Have you been to Angel Island? I'm excited to visit it, and it sounds beautiful and has lots of walking trails, buildings to see and a tram tour. Visiting the houseboats at Sausalito, poking around Berkeley and kid-friendly museums come highly recommended. I'm going to the new-ish California Academy of Sciences (esp. to see the penguins!), and I've heard great things about the Exploratorium, near the Presidio.

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Native Californian: Ah, Calistoga -- purportedly so name by the drunken SF Mayor Sam Brannan who, because of the Valley's hot springs, was attempting to call it "the Saratoga of California," but got his tongue twisted in the process!

Christina Talcott: I know, such a great story!

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Washington, D.C.: Balarney Stone: I skipped the Stone in lieu of the forest/park next to the castle. Creepy, with weird names like "Witches' Den" and unnatural looking rock formations, but fascinating.

Andrea Sachs: You escaped the cliche. Good for you!

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San Francisco cable car: BUST -- Don't ride the cable car from Fisherman's Wharf to Market Street. Our last outing with our kids was, well, interesting. We waited in line for almost an hour mid-day. Finally, we got on a very crowded car, and were soon separated by the many riders. The cable car operator was REALLY rude. At one point, people were trying to get on the car at a corner stop and he screamed: "You can't get on here. What do I have to do, treat you like a bunch of animals? Get off." Better: ride the California Street line. Commuters still use it, and it's much less crowded, and still picturesque.

Christina Talcott: Here's a cable car tip...

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Reston, Va.: Went to Paris for a weekend in college, and I went on two bateaux-mouches -- one during the day so I could see the sights, and one at night so I could see the city all lit up. Oh, and my boyfriend and I got gelato from a riverside vendor and sat in the little park at the pointy end of the Ile de la Cite and held hands and smooched. Cringeworthy, but it kinda felt like a movie.

And every time I'm in London, I go to the Tower (right when it opens, so there's no line) and take the tour with the yeoman warders. I don't care if I've heard the jokes before, they're awesome.

Andrea Sachs: You have a heart of golden cliches (that's a compliment).

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cliche land, USA: My first trip to LA included a very cliched visit to the "Price is Right," a taping of "Yes, Dear" and the supposed sighting of Gwen Stafani's sister (so said the worker at a restaurant where we had lunch).

I wasn't in college or wearing a "I love you Bob" t-shirt, so I wasn't choosen to Come on Down, but I did get to see the Wiggles, who were special guests on the episode of "Yes, Dear."

Andrea Sachs: You missed out that dining room set. But, don't forget to get your dog spayed.

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San Fran: I was recently out there, and several people raved about the recently opened California Academy of Sciences -- huge aquarium, planetarium, living roof, etc. I didn't get a chance to go, though.

A great way to sightsee is to grab the Powell-Hyde cable car and ride it all the way from Fisherman's Wharf to Market St., or vice versa. (The Cal. St. line won't show you as much.) But don't stand in line with the other tourists at either end of the line -- walk a couple of blocks farther along the route and hop on as it goes by. The prime seats will be taken, but you can find a window inside, or hang on the step, or ride in the back with the brake operator.

Christina Talcott: We had a story a few months back about the CAS, and friends who've been say it's incredible and totally worth the hefty ticket price. As for the cable cars, thanks for the tip!

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Cliche trip/activity: Whenever we travel, my husband insists that we do all the "touristy" cliche things, whereas I would be perfectly happy sitting at a sidewalk cafe people watching.

Last October, for our one year wedding anniversary, my husband planned a surprise trip for us to go to Chicago, a city I had never been to, but always wanted to go. He also planned every single cliche, touristy thing you possibly could. We stayed at the Drake Hotel ("because that's where they stay in the movies") and got picked up from the airport in a limo. We went to the top of the John Hancock Building AND the Sears Tower (both during the day and at night) and had to buy the cheesy overpriced pictures they take of you at both. We had lunch at the Billy Goat Tavern and an afternoon snack of a hotdog. We went to Navy Pier and rode the ferris wheel and (window) shopped along Michigan Ave. We went to the Shedd Aquarium, the Field Museum, the Art Institute and the Bean. We took an architecture river cruise and also a dinner cruise along Lake Michigan. We did everything touristy you could possibly do. But you know what? It was FANTASTIC! I embraced my inner tourist and just had fun doing all the corny things in the tourist brochure. In fact, I enjoyed the Bean so much, I made my husband get up bright and early one morning so I could go photograph it at sunrise. We took Chicago by storm and have matching "I love Chicago" tee shirts to match.

Andrea Sachs: You are a proud member of the Cliche Travel Club. Cheers to your husband!

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Arlington, Va.: In Brussels, we spent an amazing of time looking for the Manekin Pis, the celebrated statue that is supposed represent all of Brussels. I had imagined that it would be a large statue in the center of a decent-sized fountain. Instead it was a small thing in a niche in a wall, recognizable by the cluster of tourists and Gypsy children hanging around it. I would call it a bust. By the way, there is also a female version a few blocks away.

Andrea Sachs: I know, he is so, er, small. Never knew there was a female version. Nice to see equality!

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Arlington, Va.: I'm going to Michigan in June, flying into Detroit and renting a car. Car rental prices there are sky-high, even on hotwire lowest price AI can find is over $42/day.

Any ideas as to why Detroit is so much more than other cities? Has this always been the case? And any advice on how long I should wait to see if I can get a better deal or other places to look for one?

Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: Gosh, of all towns to spike its car rates. Really, Detroit. Did you try booking at an off-site location? One not at an airport. Also, I use Priceline's name-your-own-price and usually get a much lower rate than listed.

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cliched activity: You know, the tourists go to the good places, that's why they are tourist destinations. I went to the Taj Mahal a couple years ago, and it's amazing; apparently, it's impossible to overhype the place, and heaven knows, everyone tries. But it really was that good. And to top it off, I met a Korean Red Sox fan there, who was delighted to let me take his photo.

Andrea Sachs: Yeah, Taj Mahal is in a different category than, say, Giant Ball of Twine.

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How Cheap Is Amtrak: Just went to Amtrak's website and checked the fares for a roundtrip from Washington to Savannah traveling on randomly-chosen Saturdays a week apart. Amtrak's fares start at $90. Travel time is scheduled for about 12 hours.

Andrea Sachs: Book it, then order "War and Peace" for that looooong ride.

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Alexandria, Va.: Cliches: Yesterday, I went downtown at 7 am and took photos of the cherry blossoms. (Thank goodness for digital cameras -- I can delete the, oh, ninety or so that I don't need.)

Next month, I'm going on the Tourmobile AND doing a duck tour. I may be doing it by myself (my husband refuses at the moment), but I'm doing it. Maybe I should wear blindingly white sneakers and a fanny pack so people won't know I'm from here.

Andrea Sachs: Nothing finer than being a tourist in your home town.

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Washington, D.C.: Just booked a trip to Puerto Rico. I know it says you don't need a passport and U.S. Citizens don't need to go through customs, but I have read on some of the Internet sites that you need a passport to come back into the U.S.

Just trying to find out if I need to expedite getting a passport.

Andrea Sachs: Puerto Rico is part of the United States. You do not need a passport.

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Cliche Tourism: I took the Loch Ness Monster cruise out of Inverness. I got to cruise on a beautiful, body of water, see an old castle...and search for the sea monster. Cheesy, but great fun.

Andrea Sachs: So no Nessie, huh? Sad.

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Bay Area, California: To the person coming to San Francisco with the 3-year-old: Go the Bay Area Discovery Museum in Sausalito. The Exploratorium is geared to kids older than toddlers.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the tip.

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Andrea Sachs: Thanks everyone for your great questions. We apologize for those we missed. Time flies when you are talking travel. To the woman whose Mr. Wrong dragged her through Cliche New York, please email me at sachsa@washpost.com to claim your prize. I promise it won't be a statue of Lady Liberty. See you next Monday.

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