Ask Tom: Our Food Critic Talks Shop

Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema discussed his review of Present, Nashville dining and those among us who just don't like dining out on Wednesday, May 27 at 11 a.m. ET.

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Tom Sietsema: Good morning, all.

I'm getting a bit of a late start today, so please excuse any lag in my answering your questions and addressing your comments.

Big news at the top of the week: The owners of Matchbox told me about their plans to open another restaurant on the Hill, this one with a comfort food theme.

Let's get started.

washingtonpost.com: Firing Up A Fresh Idea On the Hill

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, If Wolfgang Puck's The Source and Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak are considered to be the most successful celebrity-chef-owned restaurants that have come to Washington, which in your opinion are the least successful and why are they not making the cut. Personally I think that they underestimate how shallow the experienced staffing pool is here.

Tom Sietsema: Ah, you're forgetting Todd English's Olives and Charlie Palmer's Steakhouse and BLT, from New York's Laurent Tourandel ...

Experience is important. But so are people skills. And it's easier for a restaurant to train people to pour wine and replace silverware than it is for a business to instill genuine enthusiasm and graciousness in servers. I think there's plenty of talent here, thanks to a number of places that go out of their way to educate and nurture their staffs.

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Falls Church, Va.: I was so excited to read your review this week. I live in Falls Church and am always looking for good neighborhood spots. Thanks to your review, I sought out Present and ate their with a friend tonight. It was everything you had described it to be. The food was just wonderful, the atmosphere serene, the music unfortunate and the service impeccable. Our appetizer was a bit late in coming, but not so late that either one of us felt any need to complain or ask about it. Even so, our waiter and the manager both came by to apologize for the delay. And once we did get our food, we discovered how worth the wait it was. Not only delicious, but perfect presentation and interesting and surprising flavors. After our waiter had brought us our check, the manager came back over and apologized again for the wait and expressed regret that he hadn't caught our check early enough to remove one of the glasses of wine from the bill. He then told us to please let him know if we returned, so he could buy us a glass of wine at that point. I was planning on going back from the first bite of food, and now I'll certainly do so.

Tom Sietsema: I'm glad to hear that your experience mirrored mine. Present is a terrific addition to Falls Church.

washingtonpost.com: This Week's Review: Present

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Penn Quarter, D.C.: Tom,

Repeat question from last week that went unanswered.

Is there anything a restaurant can do to discourage servers from smoking? I frequent a lot of restaurants downtown like Sei, Rasika and the Oval Room and often will see servers standing outside on the street smoking either before a shift or during a break. Needless to say the smell of smoke permeates their clothes and breathe and takes away from the dining experience. I'd rather not have my naan smell like Marlboros!

Tom Sietsema: Let's pretend there's a general restaurant suggestion box here and file your plea therein.

Cigarette smoke isn't the only problem, by the way. Too much cologne can turn people off. So can servers with less than ideal bathing habits.

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Brookeville: Hi Tom -- just wondering what you would do.....the other evening my wife, my son's girlfriend and I went to get ice cream at a popular place up in Damascus. There are two lines, usually about a 15-20 minute wait to get up to the window and order. So we get in line behind another "family" a mother, father and a daughter. Shortly, maybe 4-5 minutes the grandparents appear out of nowhere with yet more kids and they just butt right in front of us. No explanation, not even a glance our way. So now the small crowd of 3 has grown to 7. About halfway up the line more family shows up, this time a brother or sister and their two or three kids and they too feel it's okay to join their family. They don't care the end of the line now stretches into the parking lot. I'm about ready to explode, my wife just keep saying keep cool, it's just ice cream. The odd thing about these people is they knew what they were doing, they would not look back. SO they get up to the window and order which seems to take forever. The order arrives and they seem to have forgotten who ordered what and that mayhem lasts about 10 minutes at the window.

What is with people? These were educated, well dressed people and they were rude and obnoxious. I did say something to my wife out loud that people need to stop butting in line but it either fell on deaf ears or these people just don't care at all about others or were just plain rude and stupid people. Very sad.

Tom Sietsema: One way around that problem would have been for ONE responsible family member of the original group to take everyone's orders (quickly).

I don't mind when one or two people join a line in front of me, but after that, I'd go a little nuts, especially if no one even asked if I minded if they butt in.

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Washington, D.C.: I can't find a postcard for Nashville and I'm going on business trip with an extra couple of days there in a couple of weeks.

Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: It's been ages since I've eaten in Nashville. Chatters?

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Reston, Va.: On behalf of the team at PassionFish, thank you for the opportunity to respond to the guest who wrote in last week about not being able to make a reservation at our restaurant over the phone. I would like to sincerely apologize for that unacceptable and justly frustrating lack of reception. It's no way to welcome a guest, and nothing could be more frustrating for a general manager to hear.

We are grateful that the problem was brought to our attention. I hope the chatter will accept our sincere apologies.

While we cannot make another first impression, I hope the chatter will allow us to make a second one. I would like to invite them to connect with me directly. I would be a pleasure to confirm his or her reservation for lunch or dinner, and welcome them personally to our restaurant where we pride ourselves on our food and service. Please be assured we take this feedback very seriously. Please contact me directly at the restaurant: 703-230-FISH (3474).

Sincerely, Michael Yarger, General Manager, PassionFish

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for following up, Michael.

Now here's hoping that the chatter who wrote in about the phone situation reads today's transcript (and that any would-be imposter rethink his or her idea of getting special treatment when it's not warranted!)

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Capitol Hill:: Hey Tom. I hear the folks behind Matchbox are going to open yet another restaurant in a vacated hardware store on 8th St., SE, just up the street from their new Matchbox. Can you confirm? Shed light?

Tom Sietsema: Done! (See the intro.)

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Eating Out: I have a problem that will no doubt distress your readers. Through my non-culinary job, I have gotten to know a lot of chefs/restaurant owners. I am often invited to eat at their restaurants (sometimes comp, sometimes not, I don't expect it) and always get gracious, we're-so-glad-you're-here treatment. The thing is, not only am I not a foodie, I have never particularly cared to eat out. But I have a great deal of respect for the work they do and I don't want to be a disappointing guest, because often they truly do seem excited to be able to show me their work. You do this for a living -- how do I "train" as a diner?

Tom Sietsema: Congratulations. In ten years as the Post's food critic, this is the first time I've received this kind of question.

How to "train?" Especially when you don't really like to eat out? Hmmm. I guess one way to go about that is to sit at the bar, where things are a bit more casual, and tell the chef that instead of a three- or more-course meal, you'd prefer one of his or her single favorite dishes instead. At least that would limit the amount of time you'd be in a place where you'd rather not be, yet still give the chef a chance to show off.

I'd love to hear what readers think about this situation.

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Washington, D.C.: I am moving to N. Cleveland Park in a few weeks. Aside from the obvious Palena Cafe and Dino, what other neighborhood gems do you recommend? I am walking distance to Tenleytown as well.

Tom Sietsema: Ardeo is a fine neighborhood spot. I like the Asian-themed Spices, too, for lighter fare. And what Petit Plats, more in Woodley Park but a pleasant stroll from your new home?

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Petworth: "I did say something to my wife out loud that people need to stop butting in line but it either fell on deaf ears or these people just don't care at all about others or were just plain rude and stupid people."

Passive-aggressive doesn't work. Either address the people who are misbehaving or don't bother. Talking about people is NOT a very effective way to communicate with people.

Tom Sietsema: Agreed. The problem is, the aggressors never think of themselves as such.

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Nashville: Was in Nashville a few years ago on business. My local compatriots took me to White Trash Cafe, my favorite of all the local "meat and threes" I visited on that trip.

Tom Sietsema: Love the name! Thanks.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi Tom: I am making dinner reservations for our 10th wedding anniversary. We have a babysitter (yay!). I have lived in D.C. since 1992 and have not been to Citronelle. What do you think of it now? I thought I had read something recently that it was changing its menu. The other option is Restaurant Eve.

Btw, we went to Woodberry Kitchen recently. It was fantastic! I am still dreaming about it. Thanks for the recommendation!

Tom Sietsema: Citronelle is changing its tune. Right now, my inclination would be to book at Eve for a special occasion.

washingtonpost.com: Will Michel Move to Maestro?

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For the 'Foodie Trainee':: I'm curious about why you don't like to eat out. Don't like food prepared by others? Don't like unfamiliar foods? Don't feel comfortable being waited on, or ordering food? Please explain.

Tom Sietsema: Great follow-up questions. Let's hope he or she responds.

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Arlington, Va.: The eight of us had an amazing dinner last night at a downtown restaurant. The bill was $560 that included food, drinks, 10% DC tax and restaurant added 15% gratuity.

Followed by a blank line that said GRATUITY again. The service was very good and we would have tipped more, but that second "Gratuity" turned me off, did they think we all had so much wine, that we would not notice that they added 15%?

How do you handle situation like this?

Tom Sietsema: The bill was pre-printed, right? So you can't blame the server. I would have added a little more if I felt the service was "very good," because I tend to tip 20 percent for service.

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Thoughts on the "eating out" situation: I actually don't envy this person.

Eating out a lot can be a huge calorie binge. And -- I know this sounds weird -- but if anyone comps me for anything...I'm usually too embarrassed to go back. I don't want them thinking that I'm looking for freebies!

Tom Sietsema: I'd love to know what "trainee" does for work that he or she gets so much attention!

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Chevy Chase (about Cleveland Park): You don't tend to say much about Lebanese Taverna. Thoughts on that particular restaurant or their empire? Always have thought they are a nice D.C. success story (but I'm Lebanese).

Tom Sietsema: I liked the empire better when it was smaller. And I think some restaurants taste better than others.

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Old Town Alexandria: Hi Tom! I know this is late in the game today, but wanted to write and express my gratitude to the kitchen at Bourbon Steak. I dined on the outside patio there last week with friends and ordered the steak burger and fries with a side of mayonnaise. Mayonnaise is crucial essential ingredient for me, for not only for my burger but for dipping my fries. When the dish arrived there was a sort of mayonnaise Dijon delivered instead of my request, I quickly asked if I could have plain mayo. After about 10 minutes I still did not have my mayonnaise. The waiter came over and informed me that the chef was making it fresh and that was the delay. So I patiently waited for my homemade mayonnaise which was just fantastic. I truly appreciated the restaurants extra effort it was well worth the wait. Kudos to Bourbon Steak.

Tom Sietsema: You gotta love a kitchen that sweats the small stuff.

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Fairfax, Va.: Re: the line problem... I think any kind of establishment with more than one cashier needs to have ONE line, just like they do at most banks or amusement parks. That way you don't have to wrestle over which line to stand in, only to be disappointed when you chose poorly. It can't be that difficult to do... Not strictly dining related, but it is a pet peeve.

Tom Sietsema: Or, if there are multiple lines, there need to be ropes or something to keep them distinct and separate.

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DC: Just a shout out to a small strip of Macarthur Blvd in Palisades, where there are a large number of truly outstanding and varied restaurants in a very short block:

Palisades Pizza and Clam Bar - great bona fide NYC pizza

BlackSalt - that great fancy seafood restaurant

Two great sushi places - cheap upstairs, fancy downstairs (forget the names, but I know you love them both, Tom)

Figs - An awesome take out/eat in homemade Mediterranean carryout - everything made there.

Probably a few more that I've forgotten about.

Anyway, Tom, I think this is the best food strip in the city because all the food is real and serious and awesome!

Signed - A grateful Georgetown professor

Tom Sietsema: I'd add to your list of reasons to be grateful Et Voila!

The Japanese restaurants are Makoto (formal) and Kotobuki (inexpensive sushi, and one floor up)

washingtonpost.com: 2008 Dining Guide: Et Voila!

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London, England: Hi Tom!

I appreciate your insightful and balanced chats every week. Although I moved from D.C. to London 3 years ago, I still read your chats -- it's like a touch of home and a good guide for return visits.

On that note, I will be in D.C. in 2 weeks time and I would like to try something "new" to the scene -- I've done Rasika, Ten Penh and various steakhouses. This time around, the budget is a bit tight, and something in the Ten Penh range would be perfect. Do you or my fellow readers have any suggestions? Anywhere in D.C. would be perfect.

Thank you in advance!!

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the kind words, London.

Easy on the wallet (and interesting): Brasserie Beck for Belgian fare ... Cork Wine Bar for the obvious ... Himalayan Heritage in Adams Morgan ... Hook in Georgetown for seafood ... that help?

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Tipping: Hi Tom, so last weekend my extended family treated me to a meal. As a former waitress, I'm really sensitive to tipping. I didn't mean to but glanced at the check at the end and they tipped 10%. I wanted to drop some extra money on the table but definitely couldn't do it without being seen. What do you or the peanuts think of this? I was very grateful for the meal but also felt so bad for our waiter...

Tom Sietsema: That's a touchy situation, for sure. I would have let the family exit the restaurant and gone back, found your waiter and handed him the balance of what he deserved.

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Extra gratuity: The extra gratuity line is not the server's fault. I've used many different computer programs at restaurants and some are just designed so that they always put a gratuity line on there, even if it has been automatically included. As a former server, though, I usually would circle the included gratuity so that the diners know its there explicitly to avoid reactions like this. Often extra tip would still be added, but I did know some servers who would intentionally not do it in hopes of fleecing tipsy customers who didn't notice and that is shameful.

Tom Sietsema: I like your style.

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Richmond, Va.: I'm a foodie, love to eat out, but sometimes eating in v. out is like the beauty of being in a committed relationship after years of ramdom dating. Staying home is comforting, it's HOME, the anchor, sanctuary, the way things should be. Out is just a change, a treat. But nothing beats HOME, MY LIFE.

Tom Sietsema: You sound like my SO!

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Dayton, Ohio: Tom - love your chats! Thanks! Quick question. Of the following, which restaurant would you pick? Money not an object; neither is the type of food. Creme, Proof, Marvin, Eventide.

Thanks again!

Tom Sietsema: Pick for ... what? Marvin isn't as good as it used to be, sorry to report, but I'm quite fond of your other choices for different reasons.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: Just wanted to say thanks for the kind words about Fork, Chifa and Paesano's -- next time you need to stay longer and try 44, The Memphis Taproom, Distrito....the list goes on.

P.S. I had food from Fork Etc. recently and while it was good before, it's great now -- a great picnic meal or takeout at less sit-down prices.

Tom Sietsema: I had five meals in 48 hours in Philly -- and about a dozen other places I want to try on my next visit.

washingtonpost.com: Postcard From Tom: Philadelphia

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Chesterfield: One explaination: my husband doesn't like to eat out. It's noisy, with lots of strangers around, he doesn't know who made the food or if they were safe and sanitary, he doesn't know what's in the food exactly, how they made it, did they drop it on the floor? The music wasn't chosen by him, etc. He likes to be in HIS ideal environment, not one deemed to be acceptable to strangers. He likes to be in the most comfortable place in the world: his home. And I guess I'm glad he considers my cooking the best of all!

Tom Sietsema: Your a lucky lady then. (But I gotta say, he sounds like a restaurant critic's nightmare!)

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Trainee's work: It may be just the fact that they have frequent contact with the chefs, not that their occupation warrants special treatment. Having chefs in the family, I can tell you that they always love to cook for anyone they consider a friend -- it really is the best way they have of expressing this, and it is a way for them to display their "art".

Tom Sietsema: Yep, chefs are among the most generous folks I know.

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Re: Arlington: Most restaurant receipts with an auto-gratuity line also leave the "option" for additional gratuity, it's a shame that your mis-interpetation resulted in a server missing out on an extra (and it seemed?) deserved tip. Not all servers are "out to get you".

Tom Sietsema: I agree. Most restaurants just want everyone to leave happy.

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D.C. Drone: My sister generously offered to take me to lunch for my birthday. We're aiming for the Metro Center/Penn Quarter/Chinatown area. I want to try something new... I've done (a lot) Jaleo, Rasika, Oyamel, Old Ebbitt, Rosa Mexicano. I'm biased toward seafood or Asian (especially Indian). Help?

Tom Sietsema: Have you been to the youthful Sei? It's a perfect place to toast your birthday: Love the drinks, love (much of) the sushi, love the serene setting.

washingtonpost.com: 2009 Review: Sei

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20001: Tom -- with the news of the Matchbox owners latest effort, I began thinking do we have too much "comfort food"? Both in D.C. and nationwide. I love burgers, mac & cheese and fried chicken -- but does this say something about our palettes? Or the economy?

Tom Sietsema: Maybe both? People tend to gravitate to what's familiar in times of crisis. And it also happens that the comfort food you mention tends to be cheap.

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Gee Street, NW: Tom, my husband and I have been entertaining non-stop recently and have been trying to show our guests the best of what D.C. dining has to offer in between home-cooked meals. We've taken many of your suggestions and wanted to give our feedback:

PX: fantastic, unique drinks and good service. Was concerned to see so few people there on a Saturday night, when its been packed in the past. Majestic Cafe: have tried to go before without reservations with no luck and finally got in with reservations. Now I want to make a standing reservation to be able to enjoy the dressed up comfort food regularly. Get the seafood stew and the fried green tomatoes. Service was outstanding as well - prompt, fun and knowledgeable. Perrys: the best sushi I've had in a long time but the service was so terrible I can't say I will go back. We complained about our server, and got a shrug with "She's worked here a long time." ! Taylor: thank goodness for the arrival of good sandwiches in D.C.! Unique, tasty combinations and great bread. Service is not the same in person or on the phone when the two guys who own the place aren't there though.

Also we went to Bazaar on a recent trip to Los Angeles, and it was worth the airfare. Those little cheesesteaks, and the tomato mozzarella salad that explodes in your mouth.

Tom Sietsema: You packed in a lot of feedback there. Your friends are lucky to have such discerning tour guides!

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New York, N.Y.: "But nothing beats HOME, MY LIFE."

Your apartment must be way bigger than mine.

Love the chats, Tom!

Tom Sietsema: Ha!

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Review question: Are you less likely to review an old restaurant with a new chef than a new restaurant? I know you don't like to repeat yourself -- at least I assume this -- but since it's not an uncommon thing in this area for new chefs to take over places, how do you decide whether or not you're going to review them?

Tom Sietsema: I started doing updates of established restaurants five or six years ago. One problem I have right now, though, is an abundance of new places that I can't ignore. Also, unfortunately, some of the chefs in veteran restaurants are not doing their best work, or work that I consider noteworthy.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I have been to Central many times now as have a lot of my clients and friends. We all agree that the food is always excellent, but we also agree that the service could not be worse. On every visit, no matter the time of day (although myself and my clients usually go for lunch), service is terrible. We have gone to the hostess stand and complained but they just say "Oh, sorry" and look away. How can Michel Richard let this go on? For the first few months, I chalked it up to growing pains but now it's just horrible service, consistently.

Tom Sietsema: You are not the only one to detail slipping service at Central. What have others experienced?

washingtonpost.com: 2008 Dining Guide: Central

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Palisades, D.C.: Hey Tom: Where can I take a client in Brussels to demonstrate some savoir-faire? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Here's a mini-review of a favorite Brussels restaurant from my Postcard archives:

BONSOIR CLARA (22 Rue Antoine Dansaert, 011-32-2-502-0990)

Warm in jewel tones and polished wood, the interior looks as if it were conceived by an artist. And the food, stylish and appealing, fits right in. Plates you really ought to say yes to include the hot shrimp-and-cheese croquettes, salmon tartare with hazelnut mousse, duck breast sweetened with figs, and steak ignited with green pepper sauce paired with a cone of fat French fries. Entrees $17 to $23.

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Washington, D.C.: Okay, I read this weekly chat ... weekly, and don't think I've ever seen this precise issue. Five of my friends and I were dining at an upscale restaurant (you gave it 2 1/2 stars). One of my friends knew the manager, who came over to the table as we were seated and welcomed us all. Nice touch.

Then our waiter showed up. He was "professional," but not at all friendly. As a matter of fact he was cold. Not mean, just cold.

Two examples. The roast chicken says it takes 30 minutes to prepare. I was trying to decide between that and another dish, and if I wanted the chicken, I wanted to place my order earlier than my dining companions so that my meal wouldn't delay theirs. As he was taking our drink order, I told him that I might want to order the chicken, but wanted to know how another dish was prepared. He said politely but abruptly, "There are some substitutions I have to tell you all about, I'll be back." And he walked away, ending our conversation.

Second, we all ordered appetizers. Five of them came out. Mine did not. He did not notice. I got his attention, he responded with a look that conveyed the message that he would be right over. He wasn't. I had to get his attention again, and when he came over, he simply asked, "Can I help you?" It was obvious that there were five appetizers for six people (he took our order!) and that none of them had been touched, as my friends insisted on waiting for mine to arrive. I responded by saying, "Can you please check on my appetizer?" When he came back with it, in less than two minutes, he apologized, set it down and walked away.

None of us wanted to make a scene, and when we talked about it we all wondered exactly what we would say to the manager? We don't like our server? He's cold? He's not friendly? He doesn't seem to want to wait on us? We felt that those complaints sounded whiny, so we said nothing.

We all agreed that we would go back in a heartbeat, as the food was fantastic, but that if we got him as a waiter again, we would ask for a different one.

What would you have done, and if you did complain, what would you have said?

By the way, if you've figured out the place, their new pork chop is the best pork chop I've ever, ever had.

Tom Sietsema: I always think it's best to start any complaint with a bit of honey, as in:

"Hey, great setting, and I loved the pork chop, but can I be honest with you? Our service was a little brusque tonight" -- then briefly give the manager examples of the server's behavior.

Your complaint could become fodder for the next staff meeting, perhaps without naming names. And your feedback could very well prevent other customers from experiencing the same off-putting service.

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Baltimore, Md.: Hi Tom, love your chats and look forward to them every week!

I'm desperate in trying to find a pre-Broadway show dinner location in NYC for five ladies, ranging from the age of 10-50. We want to go somewhere relatively "hip" as it will be a new outing for the young lady. We have one person that is not a fan of seafood, but the rest of us eats anything.

We'd like to dress up a bit too, so any help you can offer would be great! Price should not be a factor. We're treating ourselves!

Thank you so much.

Tom Sietsema: This question comes up at least once a week here. (Note to self: Check out the restaurants near the B'way stages in New York.)

My current favorite pre-theater spot is the Italian-themed Insieme on Seventh Ave.

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Washington, D.C.: On not liking to eat out: while I too love home -- and like my own cooking, as does my SO -- I am shocked that so many people dislike eating out.

I guess temperament is everything, some people like to make their world as large as possible, some ilke to keep it amazingly small. Most of us (thankfully!) fall somewhere in the middle.

Tom Sietsema: And on that thoughtful note, I bid you all a delicious rest of the week.

See you here next Wednesday (and on time, I hope!)

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A veteran food writer, Sietsema has worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee and covers the local scene in his Dining, First Bite and Dish columns and moderates the Sietsema's Table discussion group. Join his live Q&A every Wednesday at 11 a.m. ET.

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