Free Range on Food: Staffers Solve Your Cooking Conundrums

Free Range on Food is a forum for discussion of all things culinary. You can share your thoughts on the latest Washington Post Food section, get suggestions from fellow cooks and food lovers, or swap old-fashioned recipes the new-fashioned way. The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.

A transcript follows.

Archive of past discussions

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Joe Yonan: Welcome to Free Range, all -- happy to have you on a sunny Wednesday. What can we help you figure out today? Did you appreciate our celebration of cheap tools? (Have you gone to our blog and added your own favorites yet?) Maybe you hanker for sardines for some reason, or need cooking-for-one inspiration? This is the place to be for that, and that.

Throw your questions our way, and we'll get on them. And for our favorite posts, we have giveaway books: "I Loved, I Lost, I Made Spaghetti" by Giulia Melucci, and "Dad's Awesome Grilling Book" by Bob Sloan.

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Washington, D.C.: Posting early out of enthusiasm for sardines:

My husband loves sardines -- the kind that come in a can. We both love fishy types of fish -- bluefish, mackerel, salmon, shad. But I really have no idea what to do with a can of sardines other than open it and serve it on a plate with crackers, olives, and tomatoes. The fresh sardines in the article today are interesting -- if you can find them. Do you eat them whole, head and bones and all?

Also, you should know that when I put "sardine" into the Washington Post recipe finder, the first hit was for dog food.

All suggestions for making entrees out of sardines, fresh and canned, are eagerly sought. Even my dog awaits your ideas.

Jane Black: Yes, I suppose we are not helping the image of sardines by having a dog food recipe in the database. But! We also have three new people recipes too, including a potato dish that uses canned sardines.

Learn more about the sardine recipe testing process at

Bonnie's latest Tales of the Testers blog post

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Alexandria, Va.: Today's article on sardines said their unpopularity is attributable to Americans being queasy about seeing the fish heads. While that may be partially true, I think a bigger issue might be discomfort in eating the entire fish -- bones and all. There isn't a comparable food where such a thing is done. Thus, it's a mighty big leap for people.

Jane Black: It's not just the head. My point was that people don't like to see that their food is or was an animal. Which is why they prefer filets. As for eating the bones, you don't have to eat the bones of sardines. If they're tiny, you can. But for the larger, fresh ones, you just pull them out.

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Washington, D.C.: Okay, I feel silly asking this, but having seen multiple recipes for whole fish this week, and not having eaten it before myself....how does one eat it? Is the head consumed or left behind, or is this a personal preference? What happens to the tail? Thanks for filling in the blanks for me.

Bonnie Benwick: Unless you're eating small fried smelts or something similar (and discounting any particular ethnic preferences), the head and tail are left uneaten. Before serving, fillet at the comfort level of you and your dinner guests. (Are there too many eyes staring at you from our Recipe page today?)

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Yay!: Thanks so much for reviewing the new Deborah Madison book, and for all your writing on eating alone. Madison's "Vegetarian Suppers" is the book I turn to the most for meals for one -- she has a way with dishes that are fairly simple but still yummy and relatively healthy. I still have evenings where I just eat pickles and crackers for dinner, but I've been trying for more Deborah Madison/Wash Post-approved foods lately. Thanks for all the tips!

P.S.: Do you know if it's possible to substitute tofu in the General Tsao's chicken recipe? I became a vegetarian 10 years ago, and General Tsao's is one of the dishes that I miss the most.

Joe Yonan: Glad you like it. Deborah Madison is fantastic. I was hoping she might be able to join us for the chat today, but she's traveling and couldn't swing it.

I don't see any reason why tofu wouldn't work -- especially if you use extra firm or even baked.

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Leesburg, Va.: I am looking for a good beef marinade recipe for shish kabob. Also, any suggestions for the best cut of meat to use?

Thanks.

Bonnie Benwick: David Hagedorn offered this balsamic marinade in his Real Entertaining column on kebabs last month. He suggested using sirloin in his multipurpose Assorted Grilled Kebabs recipe.

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Washington, D.C.: Morning! (I'm writing in early because, sigh, I'll be in a training). Thanks for the review of Deborah Madison's new book. Any cookbook that includes the instruction "potatoes, as many as you want to eat in a sitting, any kind," is a must have. Also, her "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" is kind of a bible for me, because it made me realize that I could enjoy cooking (and eating!) even though I'm a strict vegetarian.

Joe Yonan: Glad you liked it. It's a lovely book, very fun to read.

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Washington, D.C.: What on earth is a WYSIWYG recipe?

Bonnie Benwick: Sorry, is that an prehistoric term? What You See Is What You Get. In this case: brats, bacon, cherries (the recipe).

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Bethesda Mom: Loved the article on sardines! I have a few questions about the recipes. In the recipe for stuffed sardines, the note says to cut off the heads, yet the picture shows them with the heads on and the blog post also mentioned keeping the head on -- I assume it's a matter of personal choice? Also, if I remember correctly, canned sardines don't have the bones removed -- is this really necessary?

Bonnie Benwick: Hi Bethesda. That Jane Black, she does a fine job.

I was advised by Dean Gold of Dino's that roasting the sardines with heads-on would create more flavor, which I think it did. I tested them for this recipe and the filleted ones didn't look quite as nice for the photo (that is, unless you don't find this shot appealing). If the canned sardines say "fillets," they will be boned.

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Columbia Heights: I'm just back from a trip to England and looking for a place to find good clotted cream in the D.C. area (for home-use, not a restaurant). Alternatively, does anyone have experience with making their own?

Jane Black: Believe it or not, they have it at a place called Classic Cigars & British Goodies, which sells British specialty foods. It's located at 2907 Wilson Blvd, 703-525-6510.

You can also try to make it. This is a recipe from

Alton Brown

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French Toast and Bread Pudding: Thursday I'm not working and plan on playing golf, thinking about making French toast with some nice crisp thick oven roasted bacon to start my day. The rest of the household will be off to work/school earlier than me. Clearly I will have a 3/4+ of a loaf of bread left. On Sunday, I want to make individual bread puddings in my small le Cresset pots for dessert. Should I use Challah or a Raisin Walnut(ish) for the bread pudding and French toast?

Joe Yonan: I will holla for challah. But I don't like raisins, so there. Challah will also be nice, rich and eggy, but still puffy and spongy and light, just the thing for bread pudding.

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Boulder, Colo.: Hi there food folks! I have a pork roast to make for dinner tomorrow night -- any suggestions on what to do with it that are more summery than wintry? thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: This Faith Willinger recipe was nice and herby. Simple to do, too.

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Washington, D.C.: Can you recommend a good non-stick skillet? The coating on the one I've had for years is coming off. I've seen articles debating such issues as stainless steel vs.... cast iron, and skillets vs. sauté pans. I need something basic that stores and cleans easily, that I can just grab to make scrambled eggs or grilled cheese. I think that's a non-stick skillet.

Joe Yonan: I like my Swiss Diamond sauté pan, but it was pricey and I use it much less since I got my fab carbon-steel wok, whose surface is like glass after seasoning. Did you see Scott Reitz's ode to his today? You could certainly use it for eggs or grilled cheese, although it's pretty big for storage. (Mine tends to live on the stovetop since I use it so much.)

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Toledo, Ohio: First, your food rocks --I find it much more useful than The Other Paper's. Next, I was thrilled with the "Cooking for One" piece today. As a happy, proud old maid, every Saturday night is my time to relax with wine and my choice of new or old dishes made just for me.

For single cooks, here's a tip or two on how to deal with shopping for one:

You can freeze chopped fresh herbs (or peeled garlic cloves) with some loss in texture but no change in taste. Perfect for sauces, soups, or pastas. Most shelled nuts freeze well too.

If you use canned tomato paste and only need a spoonful, spoon the rest onto waxed paper by tablespoon, freeze it, and put them in a Ziploc bag.

Thanks for your great work. Keep it up, please!

Joe Yonan: Thanks!

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Washington, D.C.: Interesting story on tools today. I have a pretty small kitchen, so I'm not at all interested in the latest electric gadgets (my mother is always trying to hoist them on me -- just give me a good chef's knife please!). I like having tools I can use for multiple things or small tools that are really effective, like the garlic twist, which is amazing, or the citrus juicer that I just bought, which is already saving me time and stinging hang nails. My question, is a wok really worth it? I already have a great assortments of 8 to 12-inch pans, including a deep oval sauté pan that's great for stir-fries. A wok seems like such a big thing and a pain to clean and store.

Joe Yonan: I think it's worth it. You may find yourself getting rid of many of those other pans.

It's so easy to clean -- since you don't scrub with soap and water, or you'd lose the seasoning, you instead just rinse it and brush off any loose pieces. As for storage, the more you use it, the less of a problem this is. Mine, as I said, lives on my stovetop.

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Vegetarian General Tsao: For the tofu person, I would suggest looking in an Asian supermarket for a can of seitan mock duck or mock chicken and using that instead. My only caution is that these cans have a lot of sodium in them, and you might want to compensate for that with the seasoning, even though the recipe already calls for low-sodium ingredients.

Joe Yonan: Thanks!

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Lavender muffins and more: I enjoyed the lavender muffin article from the blog. One poster asked if it was possible to use the leaves. The answer is yes! I still have my June 2000 issue of Cooking Light, which contained a variety of lavender recipes, all of which use the leaves and not the flowers. Myrecipes.com is hosting the original recipes for: lavender pineapple granita, glazed lavender tea cake, lavender lemonade, lavender-orange biscotti.

I have made the tea cake no fewer than 10 times, as it's moistened with plain yogurt and is a really great "base" recipe that can be modified in a million ways if you choose to leave out the lavender.

Leigh Lambert: That sounds like a great resource, especially considering a little lavender goes a long way.

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Washington, D.C.: Before you throw the fish head away, make sure to eat the little piece of cheek meat. Very sweet.

Jane Black: There's enough on a sardine to make it worth the trouble? I've heard of cod cheeks but never sardine cheeks. Interesting...

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Also, you should know that when I put "sardine" into the Washington Post recipe finder, the first hit was for dog food.: Mmm hmmm, my cat loves them, too. I'd always assumed I would not like sardines. When I was young once I asked what they were, seeing it on a pizza menu, and was told they were "gross." A few years ago someone gave me some in a tin, as part of a food basket. I kept them, thinking I'd feed them to the cat. One night I had almost no food in my house and didn't feel like going to the store. So out came the sardines, I threw them onto a salad and thought they were delicious.

Jane Black: A culinary happy ending.

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WYSIWYG: When I was growing up, my mother often said we were having "Taste it and Name it" for dinner. That was a creative repurposing of leftovers (I later realized), but at the time, I thought that was the actual name of a recipe!

Bonnie Benwick: Funny.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi! I wanted to try grilling a whole chicken for dinner tomorrow night. What would be the best way to go about this? Should I try to marinate, or put some herbs and stuff under the skin? Do a rub? Do you all have any experience with the so-called beer can method? I'm excited to try-- but nervous that it will come out undercooked. Ideas?

Bonnie Benwick: Hi Alex. Recently I watched BBQ guru Steve Raichlen do beer can chicken, duck and turkey (a big Foster's can for that last one and I am SO making that duck recipe) on his Barbecue University TV cooking series, which I think is a few years old. It looked pretty foolproof, and yes, it does call for an easy rub. Here's the link to one of his ways to do beer-can chicken. You also could do a spatchcocked bird, which means basically cutting out the backbone then pressing the chicken open flat. Rub the bird with olive oil and season top and bottom. It'll cook faster, too.

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Lovettsville, Va: My studio and I are getting ready for the Western Loudoun Artist Studio Tour on June 20 & 21. I'd like to serve nibbles to visitors, but my reception space is outdoors. Last year even the drier cheeses, in dishes floating in ice water, looked disgusting after an hour, and I'm usually too busy to replace things frequently. Can you help me beat the heat?

Bonnie Benwick: Turn the cheese into biscuits or crackers (I have made these for years). You could go the charcuterie route, or make dips and put them in bowls seated within larger bowls packed with ice (not ice water). Don't forget different types of cured olives, and some spicy nut mixtures.

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Storing nuts: I bought a few bulk nuts (cashews, pecans, almonds) from Whole Foods and wasn't sure if they should be stored in the cupboard or in the fridge. I noticed that the paper bag I bought them in became oily, so I moved them to a plastic bag instead. What is the best method of storage and how should they be contained?

Bonnie Benwick: Nuts contain oils, which means they can go rancid. So keep them out of the cupboard. They will last longest in the freezer. Storing them in resealable plastic food storage bags or in small plastic containers is fine. And they can go straight from the freezer to a dry skillet or baking sheet for toasting/roasting, which brings out their flavor.

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Chicago, Ill.: My wife and I are headed to Montreal for our one-year anniversary and my wife's 30th birthday. We checked the Postcard from Tom, but it's several years old. As such, we were wondering if you -- or any of the peanut gallery -- had any vegetarian-friendly recommendations.

Joe Yonan: I haven't been in a couple of years, but I've gone several times with a vegetarian friend, and a favorite was Anise, which has since moved down the street as a different concept, Bazaar Anise, and it looks like the menu isn't as veggie-friendly as it used to be. The chef there has a beautiful way with spices and fresh produce, though, so I bet you could make a special request. Chatters, any other ideas?

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What on earth is a WYSIWYG recipe?: Pronounced "Wizzy Wig" (rather than "doubleyou, why, ess, eye ...")

Bonnie Benwick: Yes, that would have been helpful. Gosh, I guess you guys are actually reading recipe headnotes.

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Seitan: My brother-in-law always threatens to market some spicy seitan called Satan's Seitan.

Joe Yonan: Have I mentioned that I once made a dish with white beans and pasta that I called Cannelini Canneloni?

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Washington, D.C.: I, too, have 5 ways of making coffee in my house, and your description of the Beehouse is enticing, but does it make only one cup at a time? If so, it would be impractical as the family coffeemaker. Or is there a larger version?

Joe Yonan: Indeed, the Beehouse dripper is meant for one cup of coffee at a time, but depending on how many people you're pouring for, it might not be that big a deal. When I had an old college friend staying with me recently, I just ground enough beans and heated enough water for both of us, then set the dripper onto her mug and added the grounds and water and waited a few minutes, then served. Then I popped out the used filter and grounds, put in a new one, and made my coffee.

I use the larger size to make 12 ounces of coffee, and that's about as much water as the filter will hold at once. But you could play around with putting twice as much coffee in it, pouring the 12 ounces of water in, and when it's done switching the dripper to an empty mug and pouring another 12 ounces of water over the grounds. That first cup would be stronger, but...

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Washington, D.C.: I personally loved seeing the WYSIWYG reference - I guess that dates me, but I just remember the horrors of formatting and printing before that came out. But I digress...

Last summer, I planted a tiny, Home Depot special, thyme plant. Now I've got about 3-4 square feet of the herb growing all over the place (it's very pretty right now, as it's flowering). I use decent amounts of it with mushrooms or when roasting sweet potatoes, but I feel like I must be missing out on some big opportunity. What can I make that would use large volumes of thyme? Is there a pesto equivalent? I use it in place of parsley in some dishes.

Bonnie Benwick: You. Me. Dated.

Think about using large amounts of thyme to infuse things like simple syrup or some fruit jam combinations. I haven't made pestos with it but I see recipes on that newfangled World Wide Web. Chatters? Give us a little of your thyme (ideas).

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Alexandria, Va.: Like in today's wine article, I recently stated ordering by the case from New York. The lack of quality wine shops in Northern Virginia finally pushed me over the edge. I'd note two important things for anyone who is considering placing an order:

1) The article mentioned that ordering in case increments is the only way to be economical on shipping. This is true, but nothing precludes you from ordering mixed cases.

2) Consider the outside temperature before placing your order. The weather is now too warm to safely ship to the D.C. region, and you may end up with cooked wine. The same applies during the coldest parts of the winter. Really, spring and fall are the only safe times to ship, and it's too bad this article didn't run a few months ago!

Joe Yonan: Thanks!

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Le Creuset: I was recently gifted a Le Creuset enamel over cast iron frying pan. Fab right? My question is whether I clean it like my other nonstick pans with soap and water or like traditional cast iron with water and a plastic scrubby. Your thoughts?

Joe Yonan: For enameled CI, you can (and should) use soap, absolutely. No seasoning needed.

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Sardine enthusiast again: Please check your link for "a potato dish that uses canned sardines." It appears to be for watermelon salads.

Jane Black: Whoops. Ctrl+C seems not to have copied quite right. Here's the link for widowed potatoes with canned sardines.

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Beehouse dripper : A few years ago I purchased a wire mesh coffee filter you can use over and over, to avoid disposable paper filters. That should work in the Beehouse dripper, no? Because a single paper filer for every single cup of coffee is pretty unsustainable.

Joe Yonan: Yep, it would work...

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Sardines: My favorite way to eat sardines, is canned, mashed up with some tomato paste and a little cayenne to make it into a pate. Spread it on some hearty toast, and it's quite yummy.

Jane Black: You must have grown up eating them. That sounds like advanced sardines. But worth a try!

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Alexandria, Va.: Dear Cooking Gurus -- I live, with my fiancé in a one bedroom apartment in Alexandria. My fiancé is itching to start barbecuing away the summer. The problem? We are without a balcony or any space to fire up the grill. Any tips on BBQ-ing inside with a regular oven? Not the same if charcoal isn't involved, but he would be so much happier this summer if he could cook something that involved some BBQ sauce. Thanks!

Joe Yonan: Do you have any space on your sidewalk? Did you see Melissa McCart's recent piece on portable grilling? Otherwise, I think the broiler comes closest to the fire of a grill. As for smoke, you can try one of those indoor smokers; I had decent (if light) smoky results from one. I'm trying to get Mr. Gastronomer to tackle this subject for his next column; we'll see if I succeed.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi there. I made the cucumber salad from last week and wonder if I should try it again. I thought I had carrots at home, but I didn't and so didn't use them. Without the carrots, I felt the salad was a little bland, just kind of like cucumbers in a liquid. So should I try it again with the carrot, or if I wasn't such a fan without it, maybe find something else? Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: R-ville, it's certainly better with the carrots, which lend sweetness. You may want to check out Stephanie Witt Sedgwick's Italian-Style Marinated Carrot Salad in our June 10 edition.

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Richmond, Va.: When my last coffeemaker died, I was eager to go off the grid. Love the idea of having one less part of my day dependent on electricity. Had settled on a Chemex, but my husband wasn't ready to leave the automatic coffeemaker behind.

Joe Yonan: I went the Chemex route once -- but you have to buy special coffee filters, and the glass device itself I found difficult to clean. Sure enough, I broke it in my sink while trying to wipe all those interior curves.

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Lime squares: Question: Can lime juice be substituted for lemon in a lemon squares recipe or do I need to adjust the sugar, too? If it's not an easy substitute, do you have a lime square (or other limey dessert) recipe?

Leigh Lambert: You can absolutely sub lime for lemon juice wherever called for (and with spectacular results!)

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Gosh, I guess you guys are actually reading recipe headnotes. : A bunch of people are going to Whole Foods now, asking where the WYSIWYG is shelved.

Bonnie Benwick: LOL.

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Clotted cream: It's a bit of a trek outside D.C., but the British Pantry in Aldie, Va. (Route 50 West, past South Riding) usually has it. Which reminds me that I need another consignment of Walker's prawn-cocktail crisps...

Bonnie Benwick: I've read good things about that store. Now, where was it? Oh yes, the handy dandy Going Out Guide.

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Washington, D.C.: Okay, I'm unclear on the story about the pompous French guy's bakery. Does he or does he not make his own pastry? That last sentence about how he imports his dough really tripped me up. He's all Mr. Genuine, except he can't make his own freakin' dough?

Jane Black: Wow. Who got out on the wrong side of bed this morning?

Bertrand imports the croissant and bread dough from France because he thought it was the best way to recreate real French pastries here. This month, he is experimenting with making the bread himself; he'll still import the croissant dough. The tarts are made from scratch here.

More clear? (Any lack of clarity is my fault, not his.) My advise: Go grab a croissant. Will make you less cranky.

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Washington D.C.: Hi, Foodists,

Wonderful section today. I can't wait to try out the General Tsao's recipe.

And congrats on all the award nominations!

The fact that people from around the country and even around the world write in to this chat for advice helps show what a contribution you're making.

I'm hoping you or the readers can locate a recipe that a friend of mine lost when he moved to his new house. It's for French chef Christian Constant's chocolate tart (tarte au chocolate), and it's my friend's all-time favorite recipe.

The Post's recipe finder turns up one bittersweet chocolate tart, but it's not from Christian Constant -- and my friend, a major foodie, will know the difference (also, I think he said the French recipe is flourless, which the Post recipe is not).

Even if you can find out for me if the recipe is included in one of Constant's cookbooks, that'd be a big help. The cookbooks are pretty expensive even used, so I don't want to order one and then find out the recipe's not there.

Thank you so much. My friend will be thrilled if you find the recipe.

And even if you don't find it, this chat still rates as my top food resource.

Joe Yonan: I can't put my hands on that particular recipe, but can I recommend the warm chocolate tart by Francois Payard that I've made from his "Simply Sensational Desserts"? There's a version on the Web here.

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Arlington, Va.: I was somewhat surprised to see that woks made your list of favorites. Cooks Illustrated recommends 12-inch nonstick skillets over conventional rounded woks because on a flat American stove top, the round wok has little contact with the heat source. (In China, woks are typically used over open flames so they work really well.) They monitored the surface temp of a nonstick skillet vs. a wok, and the wok never reached a high temperature, and then the temperature plummeted when food was added. They do recommend one type of flat-bottomed wok but contend that a 12 inch skillet is still your best bet for stir-fry.

Because of this, I've always been reluctant to shell out money for a wok. So, can you convince me otherwise?

Joe Yonan: Shell out the money? I think mine was $22! Much much less than most nonstick skillets.

I appreciate CI, absolutely, but our collection of odes was admittedly and brazenly personal, with individual takes by each writer, and not the result of head-to-head testing by any means, not in the way that Cook's does. (Otherwise, would hands really beat a stand mixer?)

Scott's wok, as it turns out, is billed as rounded bottom, and it's indeed curved on the inside, which is great, but on the bottom the curve is so slight as to be almost flat. I, meanwhile, have a flat-bottomed carbon-steel wok, and I love it. Not only does it get blazing hot, but the non-stick quality is truly much higher than that of a regular nonstick skillet. I also like the higher sides.

Ultimately, though, it's not about convincing you of anything -- if you're happy with what you have, you're happy!

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Richmond, Va.: Sardines are good, but I love Kippered Snacks with that smokey flavor. I make a 'salad' like tuna salad, but with Kippered Snacks instead.

Bonnie Benwick: What about all those imported canned sardines in tomato sauce, in spicy oil, in water? So many flavors to choose from.

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For Chicago, who's looking for vegetarian food in Montreal: Not fancy, but there's Le Commensal, with two locations in Montreal (rue St. Denis, McGill University), one in Laval.

Joe Yonan: Yep, I've been there. Not bad. Cafeteria-like.

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Philadelphia, Penn.: Loved the article about people's favorite kitchen tools! Personally I can't imagine using a steak knife for everything, but I'm reminded of a funny story my instructor at a Williams-Sonoma cooking class told about a woman who came into the store to buy a boning knife for her daughter... the woman had always used only one knife, a boning knife, in the kitchen and wanted to teach her daughter to do the same. (Boning knives have flexible blades, and because they are curved, do not meet the cutting board when slicing... tricky, to be sure!)

Me, I'm addicted to my Microplane. Couldn't get by without it, no way, no how.

Leigh Lambert: I agree. And I'm guessing you're an avid baker. I found the pleasure and ease it brings to zesting is a whole 'nother dimension.

Bonnie Benwick: Along steak-knife lines, I confess I bought a bunch of Sabatier tomato knives at an outlet in South Carolina (off I-95) a few years back. They remain sharp; we use them as everyday steak knives and I find myself reaching for one to prep shallots, garlic, small potatoes and the like.

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Washington, D.C.: If I use a published recipe, make some changes to it, then re-publish it as my own, how extensively do I need to change the published recipe before I can call it my own?

Jane Black: Recipes can't be copyrighted, though some have tried.

Technically, you need only to change one ingredient to make it yours. But ethically, that would be stealing in my opinion. If you're only changing one or two quantities or a cooking time, I'd say it was adapted and give the author credit. No one will think any less of you.

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Near Chicago : Cupcake question: I have twice made the Georgetown Cupcake's Chocolate Ganache Cupcake (the latest batch came out of the oven 15 minutes ago), and the same odd thing has happened both times. The cupcakes looked great right out of the oven, but within a few minutes, they seem to shrink into themselves: The domes flatten and they pull in from the sides. I thought the leavening might have been the issue, but I used fresh baking soda this morning and the same thing happened. Any thoughts? The flavor is lovely, but they look puny.

Joe Yonan: You used baking soda and not baking powder, right? (And all-purpose flour, not self-rising?) I ask because it does sound like you might have had an over-leavening issue, although when I made these they flattened a little bit but not dramatically. Keep in mind that they are pretty small, delicate cupcakes, though!

Another thought: The eggs go in after the butter and sugar are beaten at medium speed, but the recipe says that the eggs go in one at a time and are "mixed slowly." Perhaps the speed of the mixer should be reduced here, which we didn't exactly say in the recipe, so I'll do some checking with the girls at Georgetown and get back to you. If they were beaten too much, they'd rise more, and that might cause this puffing and deflation that you describe.

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Pina Colada: Can you coconut milk instead of coconut water for the pina colada recipe? If not, what should I do with the leftover milk from your yummy mango chicken curry recipe?

Bonnie Benwick: The coconut water makes this such a more refreshing drink; it's less sweet, and the taste of the fresh pineapple really comes through. I've downed many PCs in my day and this might be my favorite. Spirits columnist Jason Wilson does his research! You can freeze the leftover coconut milk, or better yet, use it to baste corn on the grill (Cambodian Grilled Corn), make a sate sauce, rice pudding or even Curried Shrimp on a Sweet Potato. Chatters, I bet you have other suggestions....

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Clotted cream: Is Devonshire cream the same thing? I've seen that in the deli case at Giant. I think Rodman's has it too.

Jane Black: It is. Good idea.

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Richmond, Va.: I make a hearty quiche with sardines, tomatoes, garlic, onions.

Jane Black: Sounds good.

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Danvers, Mass.: I recently baked brownies and while they tasted fine, they had a significant crust on top and a bit of one on the bottom (but were perhaps even slightly underdone in the center). Any idea why? Other information that may be helpful to solve this mystery: I used a disposable aluminum pan; my oven seems to run cooler than the dial temperature, so I raised it to the recipe level and checked using an oven thermometer; I cooked them on the top rack. Thanks!

Leigh Lambert: Without looking at the recipe I would guess it had a fair number of eggs that you whipped heavily before blending in chocolate or dry ingredients. With recipes like this the whipped eggs form somewhat of a meringue topping/crust. If this is not your taste, look for recipes that stir in the eggs without "volumizing" first.

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Apartment grilling: Most apartment complexes will not allow you to use a portable grill outside on their grounds. Or on a balcony, either, since there's a fire hazard with the upper balcony catching fire. I'm so glad to be in a townhouse now, even with a propane grill that only heats up on one half. Saving up for an new one.

Joe Yonan: Indeed, but if you're near enough to a public sidewalk, that's legal as long as you're far enough away from a residence. Congrats on getting your outdoor space!

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Nibbles : Try cutting up into small hand size triangle shape melon nibbles with rind still attached. It can be arranged nicely (honeydew, seedless watermelon & cantaloupe). Sprinkle with a handful of blueberries. Magic!

Bonnie Benwick: Good suggestion. Much in the fruit world will survive the climate described by the chatter in need.

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Overloadin' on fruit: I came into a ton of oranges and bananas -- short of bringing them into work, banana bread, or gorging myself on them, any suggestions on what to make? Are they easily preserved? How so?

Bonnie Benwick: You can freeze bananas; take them out of their skins. Or maybe cut them into very thin slices and make chips by slow/low baking in the oven (sprinkle with citrus juice and/or spices of your choice, bake in 200-degree oven till crisp).

If the oranges are juicy, I'd suggest reducing them to pulp and freezing...that way you can strain for juice or use for sauces. Speaking of preserving, there's also various jam recipes. What kind of oranges are they?

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Latinos and food pantries: This piece, while well-written, was frustrating to read. It seems the families served by the food pantry have very healthy habits...eating fresh produce, cooking dried beans and rice instead of opening cans. While canned food is available, it's not nearly so healthy.

Why no comment on the focus of encouraging them to eat less healthy foods? Cream of mushroom soup is loaded with salt, not healthy. Boneless chicken breasts may be easy to cook with, but they are a lot more expensive than whole chickens, or parts with bones and skin.

Was there no effort to attract fresher foods or dried beans to the food pantry? Given most health practitioners are trying to encourage people to eat more fresh foods, less processed or canned, this was very sad.

Bonnie Benwick: Style writer David Montgomery responds (the article ran in the Style section): This is a good point. In the story, I did point out the large amount of salt in cans in the story. But I think fresh food is the ideal. I think the organizers of this program would say two things in response:

They're dealing with the existing reality that many if not most generous people who give to food pantries give cans. (I think of the piles of cans in churches at Thanksgiving church drives.) So instead of having the recipients at this program load up exclusively on free pasta and bread that is donated, and letting the cans go to waste, they want them to explore the possibilities of cans. I think the organizers view cans as a supplement not an exclusive source. At the cooking class, information was distributed about the major food groups, eating grains, five helpings of fruits and vegetables a day, and so on. I did not mention that in my story and maybe I should have. I'd say they're not trying to convert people to cans, just open a horizon that does have its drawbacks, but may be better than nothing.

Also, I think the logistics of fresh food are a little tough for this little school program. The fresh food would have to be distributed quickly. I'm not sure they're set up for that, though larger food pantries certainly are. Dried beans of course do keep. It's a good idea for the public to be educated to donate the healthiest, most practical options.

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Alexandria in the one bedroom apartment: Oh, I totally get you. When I lived in a similar arrangement, I hauled a small bag of charcoal (the kind where you just light the bag on fire, no lighter fluid needed) off to a local park that had grills and BBQ'd there. Fantastic afternoon meals outside. Might be an easy solution to your problem.

Joe Yonan: Thanks!

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Dupont Circle: I love the idea of a "cook" book on what people cook when they're by themselves! Someday, I hope to be brave enough to serve company my favorite "home alone" pasta dish (fusilli with frozen peas and equal parts peanut butter, olive oil, soy sauce, miso, mustard, and apple cider vinegar mixed together...don't knock it until you've tried it!). Until then, I'll just have to enjoy it solo.

Jane Black: Equal parts? Like 1 tablespoon of each? Dijon mustard? It actually sounds crazy enough to work.

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Boulder, Colo.: Thanks for the pork recipe -- it looks delicious. The recipe calls for leaving the bone in while cooking -- I have a boneless pork roast.

In general, is there a guideline for decreasing cooking time for bone-in vs. boneless?

Bonnie Benwick: For your pork roast, try going by a general rule of 20 minutes per pound, and internal temp of 160 degrees (or a bit less if you don't stick to USDA official temperatures).

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using extra herbs from the garden: When I need to trim my thyme and rosemary bush, I make green bouquets and put in vases in the kitchen. They aren't flowering, but smell heavenly.

Bonnie Benwick: That's a good one.

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Beehouse dripper : I'm going to have to get one of these. Often I want just one cup and don't want to use the Mr. Coffee to brew it. And I think it will work much better than my French press, which leaves tons of grit in the coffee and I have to strain it.

Joe Yonan: Yes, indeed. I love the richness from the French press, but find it otherwise problematic for a variety of reasons.

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Petworth: Coffee - Joe, come on up to my neighborhood and try the drip coffee at Qualia, our new neighborhood coffee shop.

I wasn't sure what they meant by "hand-poured" (because duh, of course it's hand poured!), but it turns out they grind the beans, put them in this thing that looks like a linen sock, and pour water over them. It brews straight into your cup.

Pretty neat.

Joe Yonan: Sounds cool! I'll see you there.

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My favorite kitchen gadget: I've always had pretty cheap knife sets, even though I've always heard you should at invest in one good knife. I really don't cook much, to be honest it's kind of a drag for me. Well, a couple of months ago during a sale I went and bought one of those Japanese knives (can't remember the name, but it looks like chef knife but has ridges). Oh my gosh, it's made such a huge difference! it's cuts so well that I actually don't mind recipes that involve a lot of chopping, something I avoided before! I got rid of my other knives.

Joe Yonan: You found "the one"! I'm so happy for you!

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To Alexandria, who lives in a 1-BR apartment without a balcony: Is there a public park with picnic grounds nearby that allows grilling over charcoal?

Bonnie Benwick: Have you been to Fort Hunt Park? It's down the GW Parkway and has lovely places to grill and eat.

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Vegetarian in Montreal: Please, please list this. There's a vegetarian Thai place in Montreal on St. Dennis called ChuChai.

Elegant, tasty, wonderful. Did I say wonderful?

It was the highlight of our trip, and we aren't even vegetarians.

Joe Yonan: Done. Many thanks.

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NoLo, D.C.: Once at Sunflower Vegetarian in Fairfax, I saw a person wearing a "Praise Seitan" t-shirt in which the wording was surrounded by a pentagram, the lines of which were represented by drawings of forks.

Joe Yonan: Love it.

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Boneless pork chops: Hi -- I picked up a number of them last week on a good sale and threw them in the freezer, but I'm wondering if you've got any reliable recipes to use them up and keep them tender. I've had too many batches over the years get tough on me. Maybe an oven or crock pot prep with a sauce or something? Thanks!

Jane Black: I follow the Cook's Illustrated advice on these. Start them in a cold pan. You don't get the nice color of a sear but it does help keep the juices in. When the pan is hot, flip it over. You can also finish it in the oven. Or here's another fun idea for pork chops with peach-chipotle salsa where you marinate the pork in the salsa for up to two months. Check it out.

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Fiddleheads?: Hello -- years ago I had some sautéed fiddleheads up in Vermont and they were delicious. Has anyone seen them in the farmers markets (or supermarkets) around here? If so, how do you cook them? I read somewhere that you should boil them for a few minutes first, but I'm not sure. Thank you!

Jane Black: We've seen them at Whole Foods and they were at the farmers markets, but I think they're gone by now.

Blanching them is reputed to get rid of any bitterness. But you can also sauté them with garlic and olive oil.

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Baking question: If I use salted butter and omit the salt called for in a baking recipe, is the sodium the same? Less? More? A friend who bakes says that's her secret because using salted butter gets the salt better distributed than adding it to the dry ingredients. Opinions?

Leigh Lambert: The advantage to using unsalted butter and adding the salt separately is that you have control over how much salt is added. The salt should distribute well if mixed first with the dry ingredients. But to answer your specific question as to the sodium comparison, I would guess they're fairly comparable given the quantities used when baking.

Bonnie Benwick: When you use salted butter, you just can't control how much sodium is in the recipe (brands of salted butter don't contain the same amounts of sodium). Baking ace Nancy Baggett says she never has a problem getting salt blended in her baked goods, because she mixes the salt in with dry ingredients as most recipes instruct.

And here's something else to keep in mind: purity. She reminded me that salt was first put in butter to help preserve it. It's easier to mask the flavor or freshness of butter with salt. Maybe you wouldn't want any part of that.

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Coffee fiend: Joe -- Explain exactly why your coffee gadget is better than the plastic Melitta one. Also, what is it made of? What size filters does it take? And what's your favorite type of coffee to use in it?

Joe Yonan: Hi -- it's ceramic, as I said, and it's much easier to clean (just rinses), whereas I feel like the Melitta plastic ones get grimy very easily. Also, this one's two holes seem to slow the dripping down enough to make for a nice rich brew without the risk of overextracting. The coffee peeps I talked to, including Ryan Jensen at Peregrine, say it's more forgiving than a French press. That is, more types of coffees taste good made this way.

I like that, because I'm all over the place with my coffees: For brands, I like Counter Culture, Terroir, Intelligentsia, Stumptown, Zeke's, some of the lighter Mayorga roasts. I tend to like a light to medium roast, but as for origin and bean I appreciate everything from a Chiapas to a Yirgacheffe and more.

The Beehouse dripper comes in two sizes. I have the large, which holds either the #2 or #4 filter depending on how much coffee you want to make at a time.

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Upstate, N.Y.: Just wanted to give a big thank you for the suggestion of the Beehouse Coffee Dripper. I ordered one this morning for a Father's Day gift for my husband. I'm tired of looking at his old stained green plastic dripper, and I think he'll really like this ceramic one.

Joe Yonan: You're welcome!

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Arlington, VA: Sigh, I need inspiration. I'm hosting another couple for dinner this weekend. She doesn't eat meat (fish is okay). My husband and hers prefer meat. I was thinking salmon as a compromise, as I'd rather not do two main courses, but I can't find any recipes to get excited about. Oh -- another wrinkle: we need to replace our grill, so grilling isn't an option. Ideas?

Bonnie Benwick: What about build-your-own tacos? Make fish or meat fillings as you wish. It's sociable food. Why, just this week we've run 2 fab recipes on our blog: Thai Tacos and Asian Tacos.

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Silver Spring, Md.: My book group is reading "Julie & Julia" in anticipation of the movie release later in the summer. Our meeting is going to include food from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking."

My assignment involves beaten egg whites. She mentions that a copper bowl helps. I looked at copper bowls and yikes, that's more investment than I'm up for.

Hints on getting decent eggs whites fluffed up that don't include a copper bowl?

Joe Yonan: It's true about a copper bowl, but a pinch of cream of tartar will also help stabilize the egg whites, keeping them from separating or releasing their water. Use about 1/4 teaspoon for every couple of whites.

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Italian summer food: My vegetarian (no meat, but dairy/eggs are okay) husband loves Italian food, but aside from spaghetti and Eggplant Parmesan, I don't know what to make. I have no grill, but I do have a grill pan. Any ideas please for a few summer Italian dinners?

Jane Black: Wow. The sky's the limit on that one. Panzanella (Italian bread salad), pasta with zucchini, tomatoes and ricotta, grilled zucchini with mint and garlic... the list goes on. If none of these appeal, do a search in our database for meatless and Italian.

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Washington, D.C.: I recently bought a watermelon -- it is delicious and fresh and too much for my husband and I to finish. Do you have any ideas for recipes or ways to use it up before it goes bad? Thanks!

Jane Black: We have dozens of recipes for watermelon in our database. Hors d'oeurves, salads, sorbets, pickled rind. Check them out.

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Candyland: After weeks of recipe-reading and extra-egg-yolk-justifying, I finally made an angel food cake this morning. It was light; it was airy; it turned out just like the pictures...and I hated it. It was too darn sweet! Like mainlining pixie sticks. I've read around, and the proportions (equal parts cake flour, sugar, and egg whites) seem standard. So do I just not like this cake? Do you have any tips or a recipe that isn't as cloyingly sweet? Or should I just resign myself to a less angelic cake life and go back to the dark side?

Joe Yonan: It is a sweet cake, absolutely. You might try a chocolate version, though: The cocoa helps.

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Arlington, Va.: Variations on the mango chicken curry recipe -- I can report that it works well with tilapia. I am moving soon and trying to eat up as much food as possible and used some tilapia fillets from the freezer. I recommend leaving the tilapia in fairly large pieces since it breaks up easily as it cooks. Frozen mango chunks also worked well -- I am not very good at peeling mangoes, so I thawed and used a bag of frozen mango chunks from Trader Joe's.

Bonnie Benwick: Nice. Did you see that curry recipe was the readers' favorite online pick for last month?

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Edison, N.J.: For the reader who wanted a shish kebab: Try pureeing up an onion with a little olive oil in the blender and adding a few spices of your choice. This simple marinade is really great with lamb, and since it's not too aggressive, you can set the meat marinating the day before use.

Bonnie Benwick: That'll work; I'd add a little acid by way of a vinegar or citrus juice.

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Canned sardine bones: Surprised nobody's mentioned this by 1:55 pm! With canned sardines, the bones have become soft and very edible. You can eat them. They are full of easily digestible calcium, so they make an already outrageously healthy food even more healthy.

Joe Yonan: You are very right.

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Kansas City, Mo./Alexandria, Va.: Giulia Melucci's "I Loved, I Lost, I Made Spaghetti" brings back the memory of a similar book, "Saucepans and the Single Girl" by Jinx Morgan and Judy Perry that my by then married freshman year college roommate gave me in 1965. For years it was my go-to book for guacamole and deviled eggs. The old adage, "the way to a man's heart is through his stomach" was the inspiration for my guy food cheeseburger recipe. The buns, buttered, sprinkled with out of the container grated Parmesan cheese and broiled until golden brown, worked every time, especially for the one who became my husband.

Joe Yonan: Well, I think you need to read the 2009 version, don't you?

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Re Near Chicago cupcake: Yep, I used baking soda and all-purpose flour. Thanks for any help you can give. I am truly baffled. I've been baking a long time, but I've never seen a cupcake that appeared to be sucking in its top and sides before!

Joe Yonan: Did the top cave in, or just become level? Did you take any pix? Feel free to email me at food@washpost.com, and then I'll have your info to trouble-shoot with the cupcake mavens.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Hi Joe, Keep up the good job that you all are doing. Where can we get fresh sardines in the Washington metropolitan area? Have never seen it with the fish mongers?

Jane Black: Right in the paper and on the Web site: Our Where to Buy box.

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Sardines and tso: We eat sardines out of the can, but inspired by the article, I googled sardines recipes and wow! We'll have to try the potato one and a recipe for a pate I found.

For the General Tso chicken -- some Chinese restaurants do serve General Tso's tofu. Also there are some that do a "fake meat" General Tso chicken. One that comes to mind in the D.C. area is Yuan Fu on Rockville Pike in Rockville. The entire menu is vegetarian (plus a lot of vegan stuff), and you don't miss the meat. They have fake chicken, beef, pork, etc. The chicken's the best, though. Gourmet Garden in Columbia does it at as well.

Bonnie Benwick: Go forth, and thanks for the info.

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Bethesda, Md.: I recently started growing some herbs and a few of them (like cilantro and basil) are out of control. Tall, long, the leaves look funny, and there are flowers!

Does this mean the plant has gone beyond the point of edible? Or is this normal? Any way to eat those flowers?

Jane Black: Ideally, you want to prune them so they don't flower. Once they do, you may find that the leaves are bitter. In future, you should regularly cut them back (even if you can't use the leaves you pick.) But you can certainly use the flowers.

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Bethesda, Md.: I have beautiful, plump sugar snap peas ready to be picked tonight (lucky me!). Curious...how would you fix them?

Bonnie Benwick: I would sauté them in a little olive oil, and either throw in some chopped mint and fresh corn, or some toasted sesame seeds (but not all of those together). Chatters? Think of something quick! It's almost time for Joe to thrill us with his signoff of the week.

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Chicken with Lime Butter: Can you confirm that 3 to 4 tablespoons of canola oil is correct in the chicken with lime butter recipe? I made this right after the recipe posted online and it was good, but when we made it last night, there was way too much oil in the pan...the chicken was swimming in it. We poured most of it out since I didn't want hot, splattering oil all over the inside of my oven and the instructions indicate to lightly brown the chicken, not deep fry. Wouldn't 1 to 2 tablespoons be more appropriate?

Bonnie Benwick: Feel free to reduce the oil at your discretion. The oil did not spatter/splatter when I watched chef Callahan test this. And the oil gets discarded (in lieu of a butter sauce).

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Joe Yonan: Well, you've stirred us to heat through and coated us with the sauce, so you know what that means -- we're done! (Is that thrilling enough?)

Thanks for the great questions today, and the answers. Bonnie and Leigh will be back next week, with helpers I'm sure, but Jane and I will both be on vacation (separately -- don't get any ideas!) and I can't speak for Jane, but I'm not chatting from Paris...

Now, for the giveaway books. "I Loved, I lost..." will go to the chatter who mentioned "Saucepans and the Single Girl." "Dad's Awesome Grilling Book" goes to the chatter who asked about grilling a whole chicken, and the beer-can technique.

Until next time, happy cooking, eating and reading.

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