Free Range on Food: Wine tours, local turkeys, whole grain waffles, leftover spaghetti sauce, concord grapes

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The Food Section
of the Washington Post
Wednesday, October 14, 2009; 1:00 PM

Free Range on Food is a forum for discussion of all things culinary. You can share your thoughts on the latest Washington Post Food section, get suggestions from fellow cooks and food lovers, or swap old-fashioned recipes the new-fashioned way. The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.

A transcript of this week's chat follows.

Archive of past discussions

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Joe Yonan: Greetings, all, and welcome to today's Free Range, the chat that serves you up a beautiful multi-grain waffle, pours you a nice glass of viognier followed by a swig of hard cider, and then asks what's on your mind. So, what's on your mind? We've got Dave McIntyre in the room today to help handle questions about his piece on the growth of Loudoun County wineries; Lisa Yockelson to talk about the secrets to her Waffles of Many Flours and Grains; and us regular folks to mop up after them. Bonnie, no doubt, will be able to handle anything related to her Make It, Freeze It, Take It ideas.

For the authors of our favorite questions, we'll have giveaway books, which I'll let be a secret so as not to steer the conversation in one direction or another.

Let's do this.

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Wine Tour: Not so much a question, but a comment to say how much I appreciate the wine tour story today! I was actually trying to plan an afternoon of Virginia wine tastings for a friend's birthday in a couple of weeks and was trying to pick places within an hour's drive. I think we'll definitely make it to Tarara and maybe one or two more. Now if I could just find a designated driver I will be all set.

washingtonpost.com: In Grape Shape: Loudoun County Cultivates a Fast-Growing Wine Industry (Post, Oct. 14)

Dave McIntyre: A designated driver is important! Also, take along plenty of water and bread to soak up the vino. And if you go up Route 9, just off Route 7, there's a little general store with a BBQ stand outside - good for a quick nosh if the weather's right. (Only seats are outside.) Enjoy!

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Silver Spring, Md.: I loved the article on waffles. I want to experiment with savory waffles that can be a light dinner. I have played with pancakes adding one time zucchini, corn and scallions to the batter; another time adding grated sweet potatoes. Any suggestions on making savory waffles. What vegetables? What herbs and spices? How to alter the batter etc. I am thinking of vegetables from my fall garden so squashes, spinach, broccoli and cauliflower are coming to mind.

Lisa Yockelson: Thankfully, my multi-grain and meal waffles can be made without the sugar, so you can add about 2/3 cup shredded cheese to the batter (cheddar is wonderful here), perhaps some freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley and a bit of minced fresh thyme leaves: you can be generous with the parsley (3 tablespoons) and not-so with the thyme (1 teaspoon). Minced roasted cauliflower or minced sautéed cabbage (about 2/3 cup) would be good vegetable additions. It would be wise to steer away from watery vegetables which would dilute the batter.

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Derwood, Md.: I have been seeing/hearing about a lot of wines with a "mineral" taste these days. Is this a new trend or something I'm just catching now? What does it mean when a wine has a mineral quality, and what is a good wine the demonstrates this?

Dave McIntyre: This was actually the subject of my very first Post wine column on Oct. 1, 2008 - (happy anniversary to me! I haven't jumped off a bridge yet ... ) The wine column archive doesn't go back that far (ahem!) but maybe our producer can link to it?

"mineral" or "minerality" is a trendy term that wine lovers enjoy using to describe a wine that tastes like it actually came from somewhere rather than was just mixed up in a vat in some warehouse. Sometimes it's compared to wet stones, or a saline/salty quality that might make you think of the sea (especially in white wines such as Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc). Some people think "minerality" doesn't exist, because lab tests show only trace amounts of minerals in wine - but as you know, not all the flavors that come to mind when we taste wine are actually in it. At least, I hope not (cat's pee? eww ... ) The skeptics say "minerality" is just acidity. I think there are some characteristics worth calling mineral, even if it's hard to define.

Joe Yonan: Happy anniversary, Dave... What are we drinking? Here's that column link.

Dave McIntyre: How about some Kluge Estate SP rose sparkling?

Joe Yonan: Cheers!

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DC turkey: More of a food sourcing question... I'm probably already a little late in the game, but any suggestions on where to get a local turkey for Thanksgiving (other than Whole Foods). Recently moved here from the PacNW and for the last two years I've gotten them from local farmers - either driven to the farm or they come to a closer drop off point. Anything like that in the metro DC area (farms in VA or MD?) Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: You're not late. Plenty of poultry producers at farmers market and butcher shops and some grocery stores such as Balducci's and Whole Foods Market and Eastern Market are now taking orders for fresh turkeys. Wegmans and some Giant stores already have some fresh turkeys in stock, I've noticed.

Not so sure you'll get that drop service you were used to (nice), but you will be able to collect your bird at a designated time. And, of course, we'll run a list of places to get/order fresh turkeys from various local farms, etc. in the first of our TWO Thanksgiving issues, which are Nov. 18 and Nov. 22.

Yikes, that is not so far away.

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Washington, DC: I finally made my first batch of bread this weekend. I fully admit that I am a novice at kneading (not enough flour, too sticky of a dough), but am not sure if that's the reason the bread came out with such a thin crust. It was a rosemary-onion bread, pretty basic everything you'd expect (bread flour, yeast, touch of sugar, salt, etc...). It turned out decent (I chose this one b/c even if the texture was off, it'd taste good), but I was hoping for a better crust. Was it the basic recipe, or my horrible kneading experience? Can I hope for better results with a different approach, or do I need to knead?

Lisa Yockelson: Is this a no-knead bread. You indicate that you had a "horrible kneading experience," then go on to say "...do I need to knead?" Can you provide the recipe for review?

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What Say You?: As professional food writers, do you have any reaction to the Chris Kimball OpEd piece in the New York Times?

washingtonpost.com: Gourmet to All That (New York Times, Oct. 7)

Joe Yonan: I thought it was fantastic. He did not take the opportunity to gloat, but pointed out some of the real dynamics at work here -- and the ways in which that disturbs him.

Bonnie Benwick: A lot of what he said rang true for me.

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Midwest: Hello! I hope I have not missed the freezable meal feature you mentioned doing a few weeks ago. If it has not run yet, may I make a plea for you to include "freezing for dummies" information, such as how best to store and reheat (ie, bake directly from the freezer vs thaw first) the food? Thank you!

washingtonpost.com: Make It, Freeze It, Take It (Post, Oct. 14)

Bonnie Benwick: Today's your lucky day, Midwest. The second installment, chock-full of chicken recipes, just ran today. As for "dummies" info, some things defy generalization. Saucier foods like being reheated on the stove after they've been defrosted in the fridge, while some meats do better in the oven, tightly covered with foil. That said, we'll see what we can drum up in the next go-round.

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Massachusetts: Is bone marrow in cooking good for your health? Mytwocents

Leigh Lambert: Although bone marrow tastes wonderful, it is not a health food. It is high in fat, cholesterol and has no protein or fiber to balance that out. Enjoy in moderation.

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Pasta non-primavera: I told the family I was making pasta primavera tonight. I have my veggies, but I don't have time to run out and buy the heavy cream. How can I make this work?

Bonnie Benwick: Do you have any of these? cream cheese, crème fraiche, Boursin, soft fresh goat cheese would all work, maybe mixed with a little liquid to loosen them up.

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Olney, Md.: Can you or any of the participants recommend an Italian market that has a good selection of pantry staples like dried pasta? I am looking for Bucatini or Perciatelli or another long, thick tubular pasta. I would prefer not to have to go to Baltimore. Is there a place in the DC metro area?

Joe Yonan: Try the Italian Store in Arlington; Vace in Cleveland Park; or Taylor Gourmet in the Atlas District, NE.

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Potomac Falls, VA: Submitting early due to birthday prep for my soon to be 3-year-old, but I recently found a recipe for Korean bbq beef skewers that calls for nam pla. What is that and where can I get it?

Thanks!

Joe Yonan: Nam pla is good old fish sauce, that magical elixir so central to Southeast Asian cooking. It's pretty easy to find these days: Big markets that have even a remotely decent selection of international/Asian ingredients, such as Whole Foods and Wegmans, usually have it. No need to go to a superstore like H Mart, although if you do you'll have your selection of many more brands at a much cheaper price.

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Coldest, Pa.: Winter has come early to rural PA and I'm in a baking mood... but am trying to avoid stuffing myself full of sweets. Can you recommend any recipes for whole wheat breads or other healthy-ish fare?

Leigh Lambert: Give this easy recipe a try for No-Knead Slow-Rise Whole Wheat Bread. It will fill your house with a lovely yeasty aroma.

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Alexandria, Va.: I have a recipe that calls for browning ingredients in a cast iron skillet, then placing the same skillet into the oven. I followed the instructions at my parents' home and the dish turned out great. But at my own home, I'm afraid cast iron will scratch my smooth top range. Can I use All Clad stainless steel with aluminum core instead? (NOT non-stick, of course.) Thanks

Joe Yonan: Yep, you sure can.

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Store bought spaghetti sauce: I bought about 10 jars of spaghetti sauce when they were on sale recently. Now I've just discovered that we are moving in a few weeks from our apartment. I was wondering if the chatters had other uses for jarred spaghetti sauce, other than spaghetti? I just don't want to deal with cracked jars of spaghetti sauce in all the boxes.

Bonnie Benwick: Sounds like Craigslistdc or Freecycle.org would be good places for you to start...or maybe think about donating them to a nearby food bank.

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Pancakes vs. Waffles: Loved the waffle article in the post, but can you tell me the difference between waffle and pancake batters? Can I use pancake batter for waffles and vice versa? Oh and btw, I'm SO glad someone else is a fan of freezing waffles for later use. My husband and his family look at me like I'm crazy whenever I suggest freezing leftovers.

Lisa Yockelson: Both pancake and waffle batters are of the "quick bread" variety of batters, and the general difference is their density, though some are interchangeable depending upon the ingredient list. A thicker waffle batter, for example, can be thinned out slightly (using a little more of the liquid designated in the recipe, such as milk or buttermilk) and made into pancakes. A waffle batter can be made from a pancake batter if a little less liquid is used, since a waffle batter needs to be slightly thicker or it may run over the edges of the griddler. I love making my own toaster waffles for the freezer!

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Upstate NY: Driving down a rural road, I was compelled to stop at a roadside stand with bunches of fragrant, beautiful Concord grapes. I picked up a quart and intended to gobble them up out of hand. I found, however, that the texture didn't do much for me (a little slimy, to my palate).

So I cooked them up with a touch of sugar, strained out the seeds, and now have this sitting in my freezer in a Tupperware. It's a gorgeous color and still has some of the wonderful essence that drew me to them in the 1st place.

Please inspire me with that to do with this....I don't want it to become another purposeless freezer inhabitant. Thanks!

Lisa Yockelson: Some ideas:

1. Use it as a poaching liquid for dried prunes or other dark fruit.

2. Use it as a poaching liquid for small, peeled pears (with a little more sugar and a splash of red wine, if you wish).

3. Add a few tablespoons to a cranberry juice spritzer.

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DC: Hey Rangers - I hope you can help. I'm looking for some tips or a recipe to make my beef stew more flavorful. I use beef chuck, onions, celery, garlic, carrots, green beans, pearl onions, crimini mushrooms, beef stock, veg stock, dried thyme, dried basil, fresh parsley, salt and pepper. It's ok but pretty bland, and the broth is watery/soupy even though I flour the beef before searing (and even added some cornstarch). I've used beer or red wine in the past instead of some of the broth, and started it with bacon, and none of that has changed much. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: We'll need a little more info -- What kind of beef stock, and how to do you prepare the meat before adding it?

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Washington, DC: I accidentally bought par-boiled (aka instant) brown rice. I wanted to make a coconut rice recipe; would boiling the instant rice in coconut milk for 10 min do the trick?

Bonnie Benwick: Cook the rice according to package directions, then add the rest of your coconuty-pudding ingredients.

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Bristow, Va.: What is the most practical way to prepare a whole chicken for chicken a la king?

Bonnie Benwick: Cut it up into pieces and remove most of the skin and fat.

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Huntington, N.Y.: Hi, I need a great, and preferably easy, vegetarian chili recipe for a dear friend recovering from surgery. Any recommendations? If it's excellent enough, I'll be making a double batch and freezing some for myself. Thanks!

Bonnie Benwick: Your choice, and I can vouch for the excellence of both: A 3-bean chili or one with butternut squash and rutabaga.

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Berger cookies: Just checking in with Leigh and her adventure of duplicating the Berger cookies for my holiday cookie exchange in December.

Leigh Lambert: I did a little sleuthing, but let the ball (or cookie) drop. I will get back on it and put it in the queue in time for your exchange.

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Cinnamon cake recipe: I was happy to see that Cake Mix Doc recipe for cinnamon cake on your blog. Did I miss a review of her new cookbook? I have her first two (liked the 1st, not so much for the 2nd), does this one really have new stuff, or is it variations on what was in the first book?

Leigh Lambert: I did include a review in the blog. I too have all her books and think this is a nice addition if you have room in your budget and bookshelf. She has updated and lightened some classics from the previous books and expanded with further recipes she's gotten from readers.

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Dupont Circle, DC: It's never too early for Thanksgiving questions, right? I was thinking duck and I'd like to do a test run beforehand. Will the averaged size duck be enough for three adults? Should I plan for lots of extra sides? What sort of recipe would you recommend?

Bonnie Benwick: A 5-pound Pekin duck should yield 4 to 6 servings. Lemme think on the recipe recommendations....

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Petworth: I have also gotten fabulous local turkeys from the MOM.

Joe Yonan: Good.

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Dave McIntyre: Thanks, everyone, for the nice comments on my Loudoun wineries piece. If you like reading about local wines from around the country and Canada, this is Regional Wine Week, a nationwide blogging effort I helped start last year. Bloggers and wine writers are focusing this week on "wines from around here, wherever here happens to be," and their posts are linked at DrinkLocalWine.com. We've got some good stories there on Texas, Nebraska and Georgia, for example, and Andrew Stover, sommelier at OYA and SEI, has written about a new wine from Arizona with hard rock connections. Please check it out after the chat!

And in the meantime - any more wine questions??

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Korean bbq with fish sauce?: There is something terribly wrong in that recipe. Koreans don't use that kind of fish sauce! Especially not with a beef bbq dish!

Joe Yonan: Don't judge until you taste. OK, I'm not one to talk -- I judge in this way all the time. Still, I never argue with a recipe that has fish sauce in it, for whatever reason. I'm addicted to the stuff, and not just for SE Asian cooking.

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Arlington, Va.: "Make it, Freeze it, Take it" made me think of a colleague who makes a big batch of food, keeps it in the fridge for a week, then bags and freezes what is left over. Weeks later he will defrost it overnight, but not eat for a few days because he ate out and then bring it to potluck at work. Is there a food safety guide of any kind that I can show him?

Bonnie Benwick: He must have a strong constitution -- or he's pulling your leg. Do you know what kinds of things he makes? Generally, cooked, composed foods (with fats, sauces, meats, etc.) are good in the fridge for 3 days. And that's assuming the cold temperatures in his fridge and freezer are set properly.

If he knows he'll be freezing a goodly portion, I don't understand the week-long hold in the fridge first. He should cool the food completely and pack most of it straight into the freezer. Direct your colleague to this site as a place to start. He can also call the FDA's Food Safety Hotline at 888-723-3366.

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Chicken a la King recipe: My mom used to make this when I was a kid and I loved it, but I'm trying to watch my weight and it calls for 1 cup of whole milk as well as heavy cream. Can I use another product(s) lower in fat and still have it taste (close to) the same?

Bonnie Benwick: You can try nonfat half-and-half.

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Re: Turkey for Pac NW: One of the meat vendors at the H Street NE Farmers Market is taking orders for Thanksgiving turkeys. While I don't know where their pick-up point will be, I imagine it would be pretty darn close.

Joe Yonan: I imagine you're right.

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Blue cheese: I bought a Danish blue cheese to make a beet and walnut salad. But at the last minute I made a different salad from my beets. So now what do I do with the blue cheese? It's really strong flavor, so I need to subdue it so my hubby will not know there is moldy cheese in his food. He's not a fan.

Leigh Lambert: With strong cheese, like Danish blue, I like to blend it with a "no flavor" cheese like cream cheese or mascarpone for a cracker spread. You can add other adulterations like scallions or capers or canned red peppers. This also makes a good blend-in to pasta.

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Washington, DC: Here it is, it isn't no-knead though. And I did knead it. As I said I'm pretty novice with the bread baking, but am looking to expand my horizons on both the no-knead and the more traditional 'get your frustrations out with kneading'.

Bread recipe:

Rosemary-Onion Bread

1 tablespoon butter

1 large yellow onion, sliced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 cups warm water

3 teaspoons active dry yeast

1 tablespoon sugar

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 cups bread flour

2 teaspoons kosher salt (more to taste)

Freshly chopped rosemary to taste (be generous!)

Sauté sliced onions and minced garlic in 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Cook them until brown and caramelized, about 8 to 10 minutes. Allow to cool for a few minutes. Pour warm water into a bowl. Sprinkle yeast on top. Add sugar and olive oil, then stir gently with a fork until combined. Set aside. Combine flour and salt in a separate bowl. Add flour mixture, onions, and rosemary in alternating ingredients, stirring gently until dough is combined. (It'll be sticky!) Generously flour a flat surface. Knead dough 15 to 20 times, adding flour generously to make it easier to handle. (Keep it sticky, though!) Drizzle olive oil in a separate bowl, then add ball of dough, turning to coat. Cover with a tea towel and place in a warm spot for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Divide dough into eight portions, and form a rough round from each piece. Place on a baking mat or parchment paper, then cover with a towel and allow to rise for 15 to 20 minutes. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes or until brown. Brush with butter halfway through baking time.

Lisa Yockelson: This looks as if it was developed for flat breads, though the amount of water seems to be high vis a vis the amount of flour. It is probably stciky-moist, and perhaps too sticky for forming into individual rounds without using additional flour. The amount of yeast should have solved your rising concern, but if the water was too hot (over, say 105 to 110 degrees F.), it may have killed off the yeast cells. Also, check on the "freshness" of your yeast. Not having made the recipe, and only referring to the written word, this is my advice: you may try to add additional flour, only enough to keep it from sticking wildly, or, perhaps, begin with a standard formed loaf from one of the many good bread books published, and go from there! In any case, don't give up, for bread-baking is a wonderful handmade art to learn and to enjoy.

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Washington, DC: Good afternoon! I read the waffle recipe with interest this morning, however, four flours plus corn meal and ground seeds seems like a bit too much trouble for me. Can you recommend something simpler?

Lisa Yockelson: You can probably use half all-purpose flour and half whole wheat pastry flour (for the combined amount of meals and flours), but the real joy is in the mingling of grains and meals, and a wonderful change from basic waffle batters.

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Chocolate rum cake: Have you been able to track down David Liebovitz's recipe for chocolate rum cake that he had a picture of on his blog (under banana cake)? Thanks so much for your connections!

Joe Yonan: David tells us, "That recipe is from Nick Malgieri's book, 'Perfect Light Desserts.' There's a pic on my site, but I presented another recipe a long time ago." His advice: Buy Nick's book.

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Best Bread for Bread Pudding?: Hi! I'm making Butternut Squash bread pudding tonight for dinner. I bought rosemary bread, but after buying this I saw the recipe called for French bread/baguette. Will the rosemary bread work? It's been sitting out and getting slightly stale in preparation for the recipe. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks!!

Bonnie Benwick: You're good. Rosemary bread sounds like a nice way to go. If the recipe calls for lots of herbs, maybe you'll want to lighten up on them....

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Bosque Farms, N.M.: For the chatter asking about using All Clad instead of cast iron because of worries about scratching the top of the cook top. I use cast iron on my cook top but am very careful to place it down rather than slide it and I do no shaking of the skillet once it is in place. My cook top is still looking great after several years of use.

Joe Yonan: Good to know.

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Petworth: A homebrew article! That is very cool. Thanks to the Food Folks!

I tried to make cider a few years ago, and ended up with very bitter high-alcohol vinegar. Maybe I will try again now.

Joe Yonan: You need to hook up with the BURP folks who went to the ciderworks, don't you?

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Whole Grains - indulgence or healthy eating?: I was very anxious to read the recipe for whole grain waffles, because of a desire to eat more healthy foods. However, I was shocked to see that each waffle has 456 calories, 21g fat, and 595mg sodium! Is it possible to halve this recipe (I am not a fan of re-heated waffles)? Is there a way to lighten it up in terms of fat/calories/sodium? I can't tell which ingredient(s) are contributing to such a high sodium content. Lastly, have you experimented with separating the eggs, whipping the whites, and folding them in the batter to make a loftier waffle, or is that not possible with the heavier whole grains, particularly since this includes corn meal? Thank you for taking my questions!

Lisa Yockelson: The lift for the waffle batter is generated by the leavening agents, so an extra step of folding in whipped egg whites is unnecessary. The size of the waffle is 7 inches in diameter--large!

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MOM - My Organic Market: Thought the new-DCer might like the translation ;-)

Joe Yonan: Your courtesy is inspiring.

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Alexandria, Va.: Lisa, Since I don't have a waffle iron, I assume I can just make the batter and cook as I would for pancakes? I'm just missing out on the crispy factor by going the pancake route, aren't I? Do you have any recommendations for a good (budget friendly) waffle iron?

Lisa Yockelson: If you reduce the buttermilk by about 3/4 cup (plus or minus), you can create pancakes from the waffle batter, and you would not be missing out on much, as the surface of the waffles are fairly crisp, but not crisp-crunchy, as other batters would be.

The waffler used in this recipe is the VillaWare Uno Belgian Round Waffler, Model 2002. As wafflers go, it is neither ultra-expensive, nor a bargain, but it is sturdy and will produce consistency good results over time. You'd have to search for price and availability, though.

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BURPer: Joe,

The interested questioner can find Brewers United for Real Potables at www.burp.org.

Dave McIntyre: Just seeing that acronym makes me burp.

Joe Yonan: Excuse you.

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Part gush, part question: I LOVED today's food section. Usually it is good, don't get me wrong, but today's just hit on topics entirely of interest to me. Thanks! Love VA wines (including Breaux and Tarana as mentioned) and was excited to see them getting more/better restaurant exposure. Also loved the waffle recipe - can't wait to make and freeze some of those! And happy for the return of the make it, freeze it feature - just in time for the new freezer we had delivered over the weekend!

Which brings me to my question...I've stocked it with some things already but am looking for a good, freezer-friendly chicken enchilada recipe. Red sauce, green sauce, sour cream, etc. is ok but prefer no mole. You or the chatters have ideas? Thanks!

Joe Yonan: Not even a mole verde? (It has no chocolate in it -- it uses honey, pumpkin seeds, etc.) This is my favorite enchilada recipe from Texas days: smoked turkey with mole verde. Could easily be made with chicken instead.

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Chantilly, Va.: I loved the wine article, and wanted to turn people towards a GREAT wine movie I saw last night called Bottle Shock. Taking place in 1976, it's the true story of a French wine store owner (played by Alan Rickman) who put together a blind taste test of French Wines versus American Wines (Napa Valley). The judges were French wine experts and picked Napa's Chataeu Montelena (vineyard played by Bill Pullman)Chard and Stags Leap Cab over their beloved French wines. The competition opened the door for American wines, and a bottle of each winning wine is now at the Smithsonian. Truly a great movie for any wine lover.

Dave McIntyre: It's a fun movie indeed, but largely a fictionalization of a true story. The Judgment of Paris tasting it depicts has been widely imitated ever since, of course, including by us here at the Food section in my August 19 feature in which I surprised some local retailers and sommeliers by slipping some local wines into a blind tasting of US v France.

Joe Yonan: I'm Dave's hyperlinking slave today. That feature is here.

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Fredericksburg, Va.: Have blueberries in freezer from summer. Any suggestions for them other than muffins?

Bonnie Benwick: Besides throwing them into pancakes? I'd recommend Berry-Cornmeal Cake and Blueberry Yogurt Coffee Cake.

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Pasta primavera: Ask your reliable guest to pick up the cream for you. Have backup plan just in case.

Joe Yonan: Yes, there is that -- but I know I hate depending on a guest for my cooking. I always wonder if they're going to be on time, get the right thing, etc.

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Takoma Park, Md.: I was using my trusty office scissors to "dice" a can of whole tomatoes last night and I thought of writing in to ask for more tips. The office scissors are great for "dicing" tomatoes and "chiffonading" herbs. Better than kitchen shears because the blades are longer and the handles are more ergonomic. Do you have any favorite non-kitchen tools that you like to keep in the kitchen?

Leigh Lambert: I know people who use a foil covered brick for keeping chicken flat while baking, provided its been butterflied (this also works for bacon). I've used tweezers to remove pin bones from fish. The hardware store is a great place to look for multi-functional inspiration.

Joe Yonan: I use a propane torch from the hardware store rather than one of those comparatively wimpy "culinary" ones.

Bonnie Benwick: I have some untreated ceramic tiles that I'll throw into the oven when I need long-lasting, even heat (I've got an old oven).

Lisa Yockelson: I use a large stainless steel spackler as a dough scraper.

Joe Yonan: Lisa, that's a fantastic idea.

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Washington, DC: I think the coconut rice person was looking for a side dish, not a pudding. Yes, you can use the 10-minute Uncle Ben's to cook in coconut milk. You can replace all or some of the water or broth with the coconut. Just don't forget your salt and pepper.

Bonnie Benwick: Ah, thanks.

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Bosque Farms, N.M.: Another comment: concord grapes can be made into a lovely granita. See THE PERFECT SCOOP for a recipe.

Joe Yonan: David Lebovitz will be heartened to hear (or read) you suggest that.

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Pizza help: I need some help. I've been making pizza lately, and bought a peel and a stone. But I am having the worst time getting the pizza to slide off the peel onto the stone. I've tried flouring the peel, but it's just not happening. Suggestions?

Lisa Yockelson: Have you tried sprinkling the peel with fine semolina--instead of flour?

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gobble gobble: We have gotten our wonderful turkeys every year for the past several at MOMs. Delicious and juicy (we get the smallest size, which I think is somewhere around 10 lbs)

Bonnie Benwick: More turkey info.

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Columbia, Md.: For the fresh turkey inquirer. Maple Lawn Farms has the best turkeys around. Route 29 North to Route 216 (Maple Lawn Boulevard). I've gone there for years, but you do need a reservation. They're wonderful!

Bonnie Benwick: Thanks for giving that tip!

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Silver Spring, MD: For Italian ingredients, don't forget A. Littieri in the Florida Ave wholesale market area.

And for the exotic flours Lisa listed, you can get many of them in bulk at the Takoma Park Silver Spring Coop and Mom's.

Lisa Yockelson: Thank you for that valuable shopping information!

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Coffee cake: I just made my first coffee cake from JoyofBaking.com and it was so much work because I didn't have a hand mixer. I found the cake a bit dry, which I suppose it should be since it's supposed to be eaten with coffee. But I just found coffee cake not so interesting. Maybe I'm just a chocolate fudge cake type of gal. Do you have another more flavorful type of cake I could make for guests when they come for coffee?

Leigh Lambert: Boy, nothing more disappointing than a dry coffee cake (well, maybe a few, but we're talking food). Look for recipes with sour cream in the title like this one, plainly titled Sour Cream Coffee Cake. That will usually keep them moist.

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Other Wineries: Do you have any other favorite wineries in the area? I have a friend that loves Chrysalis. Definitely need to start exploring!

Dave McIntyre: Chrysalis, indeed. In Maryland, seek out Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards (Montgomery County's only vineyard, I believe, though there is a bonded winery in Silver Spring), and up near Mt Airy, Black Ankle Vineyards is a must! Elk Run is nearby, and I'm hearing good things about their wines lately. I'm also hearing good things about Serpent Ridge in MD.

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New York, NY: Piggybacking on the savory waffles question: I recently made the bouchons au thon recipe from a while back and loved them! However, I couldn't help but think how great they might be as muffins - kind of like corn bread. Do you think I could add some kind of flour to the mixture to do this? Would I need anything else?

Bonnie Benwick: That is a great little recipe. We've gotten so much good feedback on it. You could add 1/4 cup of panko crumbs or crumbled cornbread.

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Pasta non primavera: If they don't have cheese, they could always make a white-roux, add in hot chicken/veggie stock and/or wine, cook down & then add some milk.

Bonnie Benwick: Certainly. White roux = flour and melted fat.

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Pentagon City, Va.: I feel silly even asking this question, but here goes: how do you pronounce "viognier"?

Dave McIntyre: vee-own-YAY

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Bread machines: I am slowly beginning to relent to my husband's suggestion of buying a bread machine. Could chatters please recommend theirs if they like it? Thanks!

Joe Yonan: Chatters, you've got your marching orders.

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Ashburn, Va.: I have a question about how to cut up the monster chicken breasts I've been getting in the family packs. These things are huge! I was portioning them out, freezing 2 or 3 to a package with some marinade, then defrosting and quickly frying or George Foremaning. Now they are so big that they take forever to cook and they really don't fit in the George Foreman grill. I've tried to slice them thinner before freezing but the texture seemed to change. Is there a particular way to slice, like with beef? Thanks

Lisa Yockelson: If you are talking about the boneless and skinless breasts, I agree. A good way to handle this is to pound the breasts between sheets of plastic wrap, then freeze as "cutlets."

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Traverse City, Mich.: For the bland pot roast poster, I bought a bottle of cherry wine on a whim, but didn't like the sweet flavor, so I used it in my pot roast and it was WONDERFUL. I'll never use anything else in my pot roast!

Joe Yonan: Wow. I'll have to take your word for that one.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Loved the waffle article. One of my fondest childhood memories is Sunday night chocolate waffles with vanilla ice cream. We would have our big meal after church so Sunday night was always something fun. I want some now!

Lisa Yockelson: Thank you! Though I LOVE chocolate, whole grain waffles are a nice change of pace.

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Virginia: Hi foodies,

With this cold weather coming on, I can't stop thinking about curling up with a bowl of homemade mac and cheese! Does anyone have a great recipe for it? I'm thinking the baked kind, using a couple of great cheeses and that delicious crumbly topping. Can you help me out? :) Thank you so much!

Joe Yonan: I believe this mac/cheese recipe has everything you want -- plus a bonus of lobster meat (which you can leave out).

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Silver Spring, Md.: I'm hoping to send my sister a care package because she is currently going through a lot after finding out that her cat has cancer. I was hoping to bake her all sorts of goods that might cheer her up, but wasn't sure about the rules and regulations regarding shipping food. I'm shipping it to NY and was hoping to include instant dinners and desserts. Any ideas?

Leigh Lambert: That is very sweet of you. As far as I know there aren't any laws against shipping food across state lines, person-to-person. Your bigger concern is keeping them fresh and intact. Bar cookies make a good choice for durability. Wrap them in plastic wrap and then foil. Soup mixes (high end ones can be found at World Market)are good for meals.

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Richmond, VA: I like peppery wine, more savory tones than fruity, what wines do you recommend?

Dave McIntyre: For reds, try Bordeaux instead of Napa cabernet. Some local cabernet francs are also very peppery/savory. Italian wines tend more to savory than fruity, especially from Piemonte.

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Homemade waffle hints: Recently visited my cousin, who made us waffles on a workday morning no less! Here are two tips from her: 1. To save time in the morning, measure and mix all the dry ingredients the night before in the mixing bowl in which you're going to make the batter. That way you only have the liquid ingredients to deal with when you're sleepy and in a hurry. 2. It's fast and easy to reheat any leftover waffles in the waffle iron.

Lisa Yockelson: Lucky you! It's a real treat to have someone on waffle-duty in the morning!

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Pine Plains: A followup to the savory waffle question: I would rather put the vegetables on top. Do you have a suggestion for a veggie and sauce combo?

Lisa Yockelson: A cheese sauce, with added vegetables, would make a great waffle topping, I would think.

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Richmond, Va.: Thank you for the great article on Loudoun wineries. Before moving from the DC area, we used to spend a great deal of time touring and tasting. Now that we're in Richmond, we've found some great wineries in the SW part of VA - around Charlottesville. If you ever make it down here, be sure to check them out. Also, to the person bemoaning the need for a DD (a must!), it's really not such a tough thing. My husband and I take turns. The drinker has to pack the picnic lunch and since the wineries are all closed by 6 (at the latest) DD still gets fabulous wines to try with dinner when we get home.

Dave McIntyre: Tag-team driving, I love it!

Thanks for the nice comments on the Loudoun piece. I love the C-ville area's wine scene, too, and am a big fan of several wineries down there. Barboursville and Horton are the obvious ones, but also White Hall, Pollak, Keswick, Kluge Estate, DelFosse, Virginia Wineworks (Michael Shaps), Jefferson ... so many wineries, so little time! If you get up toward Lake Anna, check out Cooper Vineyards.

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Waffle prep: Hi Lisa,

While I love my waffle maker, my biggest challenge is time. My son (and husband) are ready to eat almost as soon as they wake up, and waffles tend to be a full-morning experience.

Can I make any of these recipes the night before? Should I let the batter sit and come to room temperature or just pour it from the fridge?

Thanks!

Lisa Yockelson: You can make my Waffles of Many Flours and Meals ahead (see the MAKE AHEAD headnote to the recipe), then revive/reheat the prepared and griddled refrigerated or frozen waffles. Enjoy!

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Palm Bay, Fl.: Love,love,love the make ahead chicken recipes!!! I'm always looking for recipes that I can double and freeze.

But......the mango-cranberry chicken? I really don't like curry, I'm ashamed to admit. Any suggestions as to what could be substituted?

I have two chicken recipes that I use quite frequently as they're also easy to make and freeze well.

Calypso Chicken

6 boneless, skinless chicken pieces salt, pepper, garlic powder to taste olive oil 1/4 c. molasses 1/4 c. chopped green onions 3 T. Asian Sweet Chili sauce 2 T. chopped cilantro juice of one lime

Brown chicken in olive oil. Add other ingredients and simmer until done. Also good with pork.

Black Bean and Garlic Chicken

6 skinless chicken thighs 2 T. black bean and garlic paste 2 T. brown sugar Hot sauce to taste (I use about 2-3 T.) water to cover chicken

Simmer for two hours, watching carefully for the last 20-30 min as sauce will suddenly thicken. Serve with brown rice, steamed broccoli, and fresh pineapple.

Now, let's hurry along with the chat as I have to go to the grocery for chicken......

Bonnie Benwick: Love, love, love to hear that. Give that mango-cranberry chicken recipe a chance. It was my favorite of this batch. Cut back on the curry powder to even 1 teaspoon and you'll be okay. It really doesn't have a pronounced flavor in the dish.

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HoCo, Md.: I'm in love with the new Harris Teeter that just opened in the Maple Lawn shopping center in Howard County. They have lots of interesting meats I've never cooked before--rabbit, duck, quail, etc., but my boyfriend is on a diet. Which of these proteins can be made low-fat and low-cal? Any recipe suggestions?

Joe Yonan: Rabbit and duck certainly can, if you lose that precious skin. But I'd steer you toward something else: venison. Have you or your husband had it? It's leaner that other red meat, and a snap to cook. Check out the favorable nutritionals in this recipe for Venison Steak With Honey-Ginger Marinade.

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Alexandria, Va.: We tried a wine at Majestic last week from Gadino Cellars in Rappahannock that was really good and are heading out for a visit this weekend - ever been? Any other wineries within a short distance of there we shouldn't miss?

Dave McIntyre: I haven't been to Gadino, but hear good things, including from Todd Thrasher who put it on the Majestic's list. In that area, look for Rapahannock Cellars, Linden and Grey Ghost.

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Pakoma Tark: For the spaghetti saucer: make sloppy Joes, with ground beef or turkey. Add a little spice and some mushrooms assuming your family likes them.

Joe Yonan: I object to the name of the dish that you are suggesting.

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Arlington, Va. S: I have a question about freezing, brought on by today's article on saving meals in the freezer. I never noticed that people actually put leftovers in baggies until this year. Aside from a few select items (bread, a stack of crepes) I've always followed the habits of my parents, which is to use solid containers with lids (mason jars for soups), covered with foil or plastic wrap, and occasional tupperware use. I guess I've tended to worry about plastic leaching into the food as well. So... are there containers that you can recommend aside from the bags that you've used? Good for freezer to oven (when that's ok, like lasagna).

For your bone marrow question, not that I use it much, but I do recall that my mom's recipe for porcini mushroom risotto begins with a tablespoon or so sautéed with the butter. I suspect that there are certain classic foods with it in there that most people just don't know about.

Jane Black: I guess I don't worry so much about leaching, as long as the food has been cooled completely and the bags are freezer-worthy. I tested a bunch of containers that I liked for freezer storage a while back: Tool Test freezer storage.

Jane Black: Whoops, sorry, this isn't really Jane B, but Bonnie B.

Joe Yonan: I love technology.

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What's a MOM?: Sorry to sound out of the loop -- but what are these MOMs everyone is talking about re: turkey?

Jane Black: My Organic Market, a chain of grocery stores in the DC area.

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Joe Yonan: Well, you've frozen us in freezer-safe resealable plastic food storage bags for what feels like a month, then defrosted us in the refrigerator before reheating, so you know what that means -- we're done! Thanks for the great questions today, and thanks to pros Dave McIntyre and Lisa Yockelson for their adept assistance.

Now for the giveaway book winners: The chatter who wrote about cooking healthier versions of exotic meats she sees at Harris Teeter will get "The Omega 3 Cookbook" by Michael van Straten. The Takoma Park chatter who asked about non-kitchen tools that we use in the kitchen will get "50 Great Curries of India" by Camellia Panjabi. Send your mailing information to food@washpost.com, and we'll get you your books.

Until next time, happy sniffing, swirling, sipping, cooking, eating and reading.

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