Task Mastering

Set Priorities, Then Pace Yourself

(The Washington Post)

Ah, autumn, so happily filled with the new: clothes, sports, the latest TV s hows. Then you remember the familiar cycle of fall chores: caulking windows, raking leaves, lugging in lawn furniture and wondering if the furnace will start. (Apartment dwellers can grin smugly and head off to a movie or a bike trail. Mulching? What's that?)

But somewhere between total neglect and one or two chore-choked weekends is a sensibly paced schedule of tasks that will focus on what really must be done and what can slide this year.

For most of us, some jobs will be best left to professionals: furnace tuneups, gutter clearing, chimney maintenance, window replacement. Make an appointment sooner rather than later; companies book up fast this time of year.

We called experts who know houses from top to bottom and asked them which chores should be attended to, and how frequently. (Do you really need to have your chimney cleaned every year? More than once? Depends on how often you use the fireplace and the quality of firewood. Can you get by without patching driveway and sidewalk cracks? Only if you're ready to gamble on winter's freeze-thaw cycle.)

These conversations produced a checklist to follow for the next couple of months, starting with the bigger jobs and leaving the smaller jobs for later in the season. Take a look and take your pick of priorities.

* Walk around the exterior of the house and give it a careful once-over: Look for peeling paint or stucco. In places where the paint or stucco has lifted off or worn away, paint or re-stucco the area, or at least prime the naked patches, because water that freezes and thaws on exposed wood will badly damage it. Also look for damaged or rotting trim, loose shutters, cracked masonry and downspouts that don't extend at least six feet from the house to carry water away. If you are not the do-it-yourself type, call a handyman or contractor.

* Roof maintenance should focus on clogged gutters; loose or damaged shingles or tiles; gaps in the flashing around vents, flues, skylights and chimneys. Examine the chimney top and crown (even from safely on the ground) for loose bricks and cracks. If you see problems, don't put off calling a professional; damage from leaks can multiply your expenses many times; a blocked or damaged chimney is a fire hazard.

* Have heating systems, including ducts, checked every year. This really is one thing you should not skip for several reasons: the dangers from carbon monoxide, a very cold house and possibly frozen pipes if the furnace conks out in freezing weather. (See furnace maintenance basics on Page 4.) If the water heater is not already insulated, boost your energy savings by adding an insulating jacket to it and the first few feet of pipes connected to it.

* No matter how often you use your fireplace, you should check it every year for mortar damage in the chimney and firebox; for chimney blockage, whether by bird nests or a buildup of flammable soot and creosote; and to be sure the damper opens and closes smoothly. How often should you have it cleaned? Experts uniformly say at least once a year. But the two main factors are how many fires you have per season and the quality of wood you burn. Even dry, well-seasoned wood will leave a potentially dangerous buildup inside a chimney. If you don't get a professional cleaning, remove any ashes from last season.

* Need more firewood? Order now for the best chance of getting well-seasoned logs. Wood should be stacked several yards from the house, with space between logs for air circulation.

* Plug cracks and holes in exterior masonry to keep critters out and to minimize heat loss. Common problem areas include openings around dryer vents, electrical wires and water pipes. Check metal siding for breaks and seal them up. Caulk holes around outdoor faucets and light fixtures.

* Check attic and basement walls for energy-saving insulation. If it is skimpy or nonexistent, insulate with material rated between R-13 and R-19 for heat retention. Attic floors should have a foot of insulation. Also check attic and basement vents for adequate air circulation to lessen moisture buildup, which can lead to mold or mildew.