Snagging a Seat At ElBulli

Can radical food be a form of radical art? Art critic Blake Gopnik and chef Jose Andres spend an afternoon at Minibar to taste and to explore.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Something like 2 million diners ask for elBulli reservations every year; fewer than 7,000 get to eat there. That's because its 40 chefs and 20 waiters feed only 50 guests each night, in a single marathon sitting. (My 32-dish, 200 euro meal clocked in at five hours and 15 minutes.) ElBulli's modest dining room, with a decor so fusty you have to figure it's ironic, is open only in summer and fall. Ferran Adri? spends the rest of the year dreaming up new dishes in his experimental atelier in Barcelona's Gothic quarter.

To try for reservations for the 2010 season, says to check with them in December. The Web site also has excellent information on the restaurant, its food, its history and its philosophy.

-- Blake Gopnik

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