Snagging a Seat At ElBulli
Something like 2 million diners ask for elBulli reservations every year; fewer than 7,000 get to eat there. That's because its 40 chefs and 20 waiters feed only 50 guests each night, in a single marathon sitting. (My 32-dish, 200 euro meal clocked in at five hours and 15 minutes.) ElBulli's modest dining room, with a decor so fusty you have to figure it's ironic, is open only in summer and fall. Ferran Adri? spends the rest of the year dreaming up new dishes in his experimental atelier in Barcelona's Gothic quarter.
To try for reservations for the 2010 season, http:/
-- Blake Gopnik