
Here's what I'm wishing for over the holidays: 1) A magic wand and 2) a crystal ball. If I had them, I could make skin imperfections disappear (with no redness, bruising or scarring) and predict which treatments my patients should use for the fastest and best results for any skin condition. Alas, since I'm unlikely to get either this year (or ever), I'll compromise by offering some quick-fix advice.
Never underestimate the power of a good moisturizer. Well-hydrated skin looks and feels smoother, younger and a little less wrinkly. Choose a moisturizer that is designed for your face: It should be non-comedogenic and contain a sunscreen if you plan to use it during the day. Aveeno Positively Radiant SPF 30 and Purpose Redness Reducing Moisturizer SPF 30 are two of my daytime favorites. At night, the sunscreen isn't essential, but ingredients such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid can speed exfoliation and improve hydration. For nighttime use, try Olay Total Effects Anti-Blemish Anti-Aging cream or Skin Medica AHA/BHA cream. For the body, moisturizers with powerful exfoliators such as lactic acid or urea (my favorites: AmLactin XL and Glytone Body Lotion) work well to smoothe rough areas and get rid of flaky skin.
For even better exfoliation results and more of a glow for those holiday parties, try a mild chemical peel with glycolic or salicylic acid. You'll have some mild flaking but within a few days the skin looks better. If you need great-looking skin right away, go for a microdermabrasion or Vibraderm treatment -- these use gentle physical methods to remove part of the upper layer of the skin, which makes your skin look and feel smoother immediately following the treatment.
Another one of my favorite procedures is laser hair removal. If you have dark hair, forget waxing. This can cause ingrown hairs and doesn't permanently reduce hair growth anyway. Multiple sessions are needed for the best results, but it takes weeks for hair to grow back between sessions, and winter is prime time to start because most people have lost their summer tans by now. Plus, skin that is rough or bumpy from ingrown hairs will quickly start to improve in texture and appearance after a laser hair-removal session. So, if you're lucky enough to be heading off to the tropics, you'll be ready to slip into a swim suit.
For anyone plagued by sunken, dark under-eye circles, rejoice because there are some quick and easy remedies. Unfortunately, these do not include those widely advertised topical creams whose claims of fabulousness are untrue. What works? Concealer can help to mask dark pigmentation, but it won't affect the shadows under your eyes. A quick session with an injectable filler such as hyaluronic acid (in Restylane) can reduce them, though, for at least a few months.
When a zit appears in the middle of your face right before the big party, try dabbing on small amounts of benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid containing creams, (such as Neutrogena On the Spot) to help dry it out. Don't overdo it, though, because you'll only wind up dry and flaky. A mild topical hydrocortisone-containing cream such as Cortaid can also come to your aid in this situation. If you're in to gadgets, consider Zeno, a handheld device that can be used to gently heat individual pimples and help them resolve a little more quickly. For a very deep, painful lesion, a trip to your dermatologist for a quick injection of cortisone can help a blemish resolve in one or two days instead of four or five. Whatever you do, don't pick! This will only lead to more irritation, inflammation, redness, and scabbing, which will simply take longer to heal.
What to avoid this holiday season? Anything that sound too good to be true. Instead of "brightening creams" claiming to produce amazing changes, rivaling those of Botox and lasers, use a good moisturizer and save your time and money for treatments that actually work. And remember, in general, don't try new products or treatments too close to the day of an important social event - it's hard to predict how your skin will react. Give yourself a week or two, just in case your skin gets irritated or bruised, or you simply need to become accustomed to the new you. So, have a happy, healthy holiday season, and all my best wishes for glowing skin!
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