Mineral Makeup: Magic or Myth?
BY RACHEL HERSCHENFELD, M.D. - DERMATOLOGIST
There has been a terrific amount of buzz lately over mineral makeup (foundation, blush, powder), which is made of finely ground minerals, including zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and pigments. But is there really a reason to use it instead of traditional makeup, which contains many of the same minerals? That depends on whom you ask. Important questions to consider include what ingredients are used, the amount of sun protection given and product safety.
Many brands of mineral makeup brands don't contain fragrances, preservatives and emulsifiers, ingredients known to cause irritation or allergic reactions. So, for some people who react to cosmetics, mineral makeup may be a good option. However, other products that call themselves mineral makeup do contain these potentially irritating compounds, so it is important to read labels carefully. One ingredient found in some brands warrants particular attention. Bismuth oxychloride, which gives a shimmery look to makeup, can be irritating or even cause acne in high concentrations, so be careful if a product lists this substance on the label.
Although mineral makeup may be free of many potentially allergy- inducing ingredients, these products may actually increase allergic reactions to gold. Mineral makeup contains finely ground particles of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and mica that can abrade jewelry and increase the release of gold particles onto the skin surface. In fact, many cases of allergic contact dermatitis to jewelry occur in areas covered with makeup. Some allergy specialists attribute part of the increase in gold allergy to the rising popularity of mineral makeup.
Another potential concern is the presence of micronized, or very finely ground, particles. The presence of nanoparticles in mineral makeup has raised concerns about safety, even though no toxic effects have been proven when they are simply applied to the skin.
Many mineral makeup products claim to provide significant UV protection. However, makeup in any form is not applied in a uniform layer thick enough to achieve the SPF on a label. For that reason, I always recommend applying a facial moisturizer with sunscreen before applying any makeup. That way you can be sure you are really protecting your skin from harmful UV rays.
Some people love the coverage and feel of mineral makeup powders; others may find these products too drying. Some people with darker skin tones find mineral makeup cannot match their skin color adequately.
Given these issues, there is no reason to switch to a mineral makeup if you are happy with your traditional one. If you are sensitive to fragrances or preservatives or other ingredients in traditional brands, though, it is worth considering a switch. Consider one that does not contain bismuth such as Jane Iredale, Simply Karen and Affordable Mineral Makeup.
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