To Drink Local, Start Here

By Dave McIntyre
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, October 14, 200

Todd Thrasher, sommelier and general manager of Restaurant Eve in Old Town Alexandria, joined me in a recent tasting of several of Loudoun County's best wines. Restaurant Eve champions the "eat local" movement in the Washington area and supports local food producers. Thrasher said he is increasing his focus on locally produced wines as well and decided after our tasting to serve only Virginia and Maryland wines at this year's Farmland Feast dinner on Nov. 9, when local chefs support local farms and farm markets.

Here are some wineries to watch - and seek out - in Loudoun County, based on my tasting with Thrasher and my recent exploration of the county:

• Boxwood Winery. John Kent Cooke and Rachel Martin's new winery has boutique aspirations but accessible prices. The 2007 Topiary and Boxwood blends are outstanding and are impressive values at $25. If the prices and quality remain at this level, Boxwood will make a major statement for Virginia wine.

• Breaux Vineyards. Winemaker David Collins excels with red wines, especially merlot and nebbiolo. The latter rewards your patience -- as in, several years in your cellar.

• Chrysalis Vineyards. Jennifer McCloud produces stylish Norton, voluptuous viognier and a racy 2008 albariño that Thrasher called "a smokin' representation of what Virginia wine can be."

• Corcoran Vineyards. Cabernet franc chock-full of cherry flavors dusted with white pepper (it's better than it sounds) and a soft and spicy malbec highlight Lori Corcoran's portfolio. Also look for "Mary's Cuvee," a blend of cabernet franc, barbera and tannat produced with former Lansdowne Resort sommelier Mary Watson-Delauder.

• Loudoun Valley Vineyards. New owners Bree Ann and Cameron Moore produced a 2008 traminette that shows litchi fruit in a style that suggests Alsace. It was the best traminette I've ever tasted and had Thrasher dreaming of "a big piece of pork belly."

• Sunset Hills Vineyard. This winery's reds are winning awards, but don't miss the 2007 reserve chardonnay and the lovely, flowery 2008 viognier. Mike Canney's team also produces a smoky merlot from fruit purchased from Breaux and an aromatic petit verdot from grapes grown at Chrysalis.

• Tarara Winery. Tarara is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, but its wines are gaining new life under Jordan Harris's direction. His newly released 2008 whites are excellent, including a gingery viognier and a quirky blend called "Charval" designed to appeal to fans of Conundrum. In reds, the 2007 meritage blend and 2007 syrah show Harris's talent and potential.

October is Virginia Wine Month. Learn about winery festivals, travel packages and other events at virginia.org. And this is the second annual Regional Wine Week, with wine writers and bloggers reporting on local wines across the United States and Canada at drinklocalwine.com.

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