A visit to the stocked freezers at Terry's Healthy Food store in Rockville makes a convincing case that the vegetarian meats, seafood and poultry imported from Taiwan and China look more like their real counterparts than ever before. But taste comparison is another matter entirely.
We sampled 10 of the soy-protein-based items sold at Terry's (12059 Nebel St., Rockville, 301-770-6778), which all come fully cooked and frozen (we bought an 11th item, vegetarian turkey, but didn't include it in the taste test). We first defrosted, then heated them in the microwave. The food was rated on its approximation to its real counterpart; how well the vegetarian version would work if presented in a vegetarian dish; and texture, aroma, taste and overall appeal. The panelists were Acadiana chef de cuisine Chris Clime; David Herring of the Vegetarian Society of D.C.; Food section staffers Jane Black, Walter Nicholls and Joe Yonan; Lean Plate Club columnist Sally Squires and Travel section staff writer Andrea Sachs.
With the exception of one item, testers agreed that none of these would fool anyone's palate. And some were made to either look or smell so much like the real thing that the vegetarian and vegan testers in the group were a bit dismayed.
Sausage (Vege Giani brand, $8.49 for 21 ounces): These received the second-highest marks for tasting close to the real thing. Most testers were favorably impressed with the aroma, texture and appearance. "Can imagine actually buying and enjoying these," and "a little more hot dog than sausage."
Duck (Green Meat brand roast duck, $4.89 for 10.8 ounces): Testers appreciated its look and texture. Rated "smoky" and "chewy."
Chicken breast slices (Vegebest brand, $3.99 for eight ounces): Relatively high marks for its appearance. One tester liked the flavor. "Like hospital chicken," "better than Tofurky," "like Oscar Meyer."
Bacon (Vegebest, $4.39 for 9.6 ounces): Looks like a pale version of slab bacon, but the taste didn't come close. "Too sweet," "no bacon/smoky flavor."
Lobster (Vegebest, $8.95 for one pound): Dyed lobster-red on the outside, a puzzling beige color on the inside. "Zero semblance of lobster," "tastes a lot like chicken," "wish it had a stringier texture like lobster."
Steak (Vegetarian Foods Sand-Bright Beef Steak brand, $3.99 for eight ounces): "Gummy," "looks like steak; tastes like sausage!"
Shrimp (Vegan King Prawn brand, $4.89 for eight ounces): Cute, but the taste was disappointing. "Very spongy," "like rubbery squid," "maybe if it was battered and deep-fried, it might pass as overcooked shrimp." (The shrimp fared better when used in a recipe; see Page F8.)
Tasted but not pictured: Salmon (Chin Hsin Foods Co. Ltd., $3.89 for 10.5 ounces): All thumbs down, but it earned a point or two for its approximation of salmon skin and flesh color. Deemed "too fishy," "watery" and "fake-flavored."
Chicken nuggets (two different textures; both Vegebest, $4.89 for 10.5 ounces): Texture and appearance were okay, but comments ran to "flavorless," "unpleasant" and "chemical-tasting" (only natural ingredients are listed, however).
Citrus-sauced spare ribs (May Wah/Vegebest brand, $3.69 for 8.8 ounces): These received the highest ratings -- and most exclamation marks -- for taste, texture, flavor and proximity to meat. "Actually looked like meat!" "Sauce made all the difference," "Would choose these over the real thing!" "They remind me of Vietnamese grilled shaved beef."
