Many fall lines were built around pared-down classic silhouettes -- sartorial catnip to budget-conscious shoppers -- but an underlying current of luxe coursed through a few collections, heading in the direction of the Old World. Laden with rich fabrics, intricate embroidery and fur accents, Tibi designer Amy Smilovic's opulent collection took inspiration from illustrator Gennady Spirin's "The Tale of the Firebird," a collection of Russian fairy tales. Meanwhile, John Galliano looked to Russian and Balkan folklore for his embellished coats and wide, full skirts. With this imperial array, the movement toward minimalism seems almost like ancient history.