By Craig Cola / wp.com Italian Journal Hosted by Kim O'Donnel washingtonpost.com Staff Thursday, March 16, 2000 Today at Noon EST, Kim O'Donnel joined us from Italy for Italian Journal. For the next three weeks, What's Cooking host Kim O'Donnel is cooking and logging on, LIVE from Italy. Enrolled at the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Costigliole d'Asti, Kim will share her far-flung adventures, both in and out of the classroom, until April 4. This is your chance to explore Italy's Piedmont region, from the artisans in the countryside to the big-city caffe culture in Milan and Turin. Check out these upcoming dates from Italy: March 16 - Italian Journal from Costigliole d'Asti March 20 - What's Cooking from Costigliole d'Asti March 23 - Italian Journal March 27 - What's Cooking March 30 - Italian Journal April 3 - What's Cooking April 6 - Copenhagen Journal In addition to the Italian Journal segments (March 16, 23, 30), Kim will host What's Cooking, her popular cooking discussion held on Mondays (March 20, 27; April 3, Noon EST). A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her free time in front of a stove or with her nose in a cookbook. If you can't make the live event, you can always send Kim O'Donnel an e-mail or drop in on the What's Cooking message board. Plus, check out Kim's pre-Italy video interview. Below is today's transcript.

Kim O'Donnel: Buon giorno and greetings from Costigliole d'Asti, Italy (guess what, for the last two months, I've been misspelling the town as Costigliole and the director of the school just corrected me before coming online) ...Anyway, it's about 6 in the evening, and it's a beautiful spring day, clear skies. I've been here since Monday and today is probably the first day without jetlag. I just told Vic Sussman that my cell phone wouldn't work inside the castle (the school is located inside of a 11th/12th century castle) and all we could do was laugh at the insanity of my complaint. Anyway, I'm working from a different kind of keyboard with all kinds of accents, so forgive me if I type funny. I'm thrilled to be here and to share with you the life and times of this little town nestled in the Piedmont region, northwest corner of Italy. We just finished wine class (although no tasting is allowed for a few weeks - it's all theory at first) and dinner is about in a hour. But for now, let's get to your questions...

Kim O'Donnel: By the way, if you have regular non-Italy related questions, I will put them on the back burner and take all Italy questions (food or otherwise) first, and I'll hope you'll understand...andiamo!

Warrenton, VA: Kim sounds like a fabulous trip. How much weight did you gain?

Kim O'Donnel: Well, thanks a lot...I've only been here a few days, so give me a chance! Actually, my dear, I've been exercising in the morning. This morning, I jogged through the hills and vineyards right by the guest house, and I hope I can keep it up so the poundage doesn't pack on...They are feeding us in a big way...but the portions are small (nice try at a rationalization, no?) And as far as I'm concerned, if I'm not here to eat and try every little thing, I don't know why I'm here...

SF, CA: I'm glad your having a good time! Can non-chefs go to this institute? Do you need to know Italian? Take care!

Kim O'Donnel: Hi SF,
They take "non-chefs" but you need to have some kind of background in the food business, either having worked in a restaurant, gourmet shop,etc. One woman has only worked front of the house for years, another guy has been a waiter for 18 years, that all qualifies as experience...And no, you don't need to know Italian, but it sure helps...all the lessons are conducted in Italian (no joke) and we have an interpreter at all times...but the lecture notes are in Italian, as are the recipes...we have six hours of Italian instruction a week, which will undoubtedly help, as does hanging out at the local enoteca with our new pal Gino, owner of Caffe Roma...

WDC: Okay...so....what did you learn today? Share, share!

Kim O'Donnel: Okay, in the last few days, I learned that Italians sell frozen pitted olives (isn't that funny?) ... in a town of 5000 people, there are 500 wine producers (holy moly!)... we've had risotto with stinging nettles (strange but wonderful) ... learned how to make grissini (bread sticks) this morning ... uh, uh... the list goes on...let me think...the brain is so full...

WDC - Dupont Circle: Are there sidewalks where you are or is it more rural? Are you close to an urban area and if so how close? Just wandering if you were in walking distance to a little downtown-like area.

Kim

Kim O'Donnel: Remember the tv show "Northern Exposure?" It's about the same size. VERY in the middle of nowhere. Closest big town, Asti, about 10 miles away. No hotel here. The "downtown" is like a blink of an eye - if you're not careful, but has world-renowned restaurant (and best in all of Italy) Guido, where I'll be parking myself sometime next weekend...they also have the wonderful wine bar Caffe Roma with Gino and his wife running the show (last night we had an'85 Barbera for about $10 US!)...there's a couple of lovely pastry shops, cafes, hardware stores, stuff like that you expect in a small town...

Atlanta, GA: What is the very best recipe you have found for pizza dough, and how do you prepare it?

Kim O'Donnel: We did a few doughs this morning but from what I understand, we will be learning pizza dough next week, and so I'll be sure to report back...

Centreville, VA: Have you happened upon any great new ideas for vegetarians?

Kim O'Donnel: I've had more meat in the last few days than I've had in months, and it doesn't look like it's going to be much different for a while...that said, there are lots of vegetarian options, just not much at the school at the moment...I've had wonderful wild greens, including the nettles in the risotto, broccoli rapini and local arugula and radicchio which far better than anything I've ever had..I will be sure to update you on any meatless experiences I have in the coming weeks...

Tofuchik: Please tell more about your wine theory classes. Is there a specifically "Italian" approach to theory? Do people who want to be sommeliers take these classes? Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: Well, the guy who's teaching the class is Gianni Lercara, a top sommelier in Italy...but what I haven't told you about the room, where we have the lectures - the wine tasting facility! It's unbelievable, unlike anything I've ever seen ANYWHERE. I promise to send photos to download and give you all an idea...Each desk has special lighting to study the wine, and numbered lights allow you to compare, contrast...plus individual spitting desks, the design is one big oenological orgasm. Wine everywhere, natural cooling conditions...perfecto! And this is where we did our olive oil tastings! Yes, we tasted olive oil, at least five different kinds, and there are special blue glasses that you use to taste...the first wine class was all about the plants, the vines, the grapes, the different parts of the grape and their functions, their roles in the production process, the difference between red and white wine production and so on..I have no doubt that at the end of three weeks I will never look at wine the same way again, and I thought I was fairly educated...It's mindblowing.

OysterBoy, DC: Kim sweetie, I’m a little confused about your professional life. Are you a free-lance writer who has a steady, part-time gig with the Post? A full-time Post employee? Who sends you on all these wonderful excursions or do you pay for them yourself?

Kim O'Donnel: Oysterboy, darling, no need to be confused...I am a full-fledged employee at washingtonpost.com, specifically with Live Online at the site. The company has sent me. And even though I am having a ball, I am also working my tail off...

washingtonpost.com: Oyster Boy: No doubt Kim is a full-time Postie. We're anxious to try the feast she will prepare for us at Live Online upon her return.

Washington: What does the typical breakfast consist of in the region where you are now?

Kim O'Donnel: Breakfast at our guest house has consisted of the following (it's been buffet style): yogurt, croissants (some of which are filled with apricots), toast, lots of fruit, including those amazing Italian kiwis (yes! Italy produces kiwis), coffee of course, blood orange juice, etc...

Woodsboro, MD: I have been searching the web for Italian cooking schools (in Italy). Surprising how many there are. Does the Institute have a web site or can you give their address? Also I they emphasizing Northern Italian cooking or the whole bit?

washingtonpost.com: Kim is enrolled at the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Costigliole d'Asti, (Piedmont region) Italy. The website is http://www.icif.com/english/headquarters.htm.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, they have a web site and my lovely producer Eleanor has provided it for you above...and no, they are no limiting their focus to just Piedmont, but to the cuisine of the entire country...

Nancy Drew Girl: Ciao Bella!

I'm chatting with you from Amsterdam where I'm hanging out for a couple of days. Great city- but I think you're probably having more exciting culinary adventures than me. I love the Dutch, but their food just doesn't compare to Italia. Anyhow- do you notice people shopping differently in Italy? Do they seem to market more frequently and buy fresh produce, cheeses, etc. every day or every other day? Also, is there some sort of specialty dish, cheese, or veggie native to this particular town.

Have fun. Mangia mangia.

Kim O'Donnel: How wonderful of you to check in, Nancy Drew girl! You're my hero, logging on from Amsterdam. Yes, people shop differently.. I see people getting up in the morning to go get their goods and yes, much more frequently, but this applies to all of Europe...I remember this in Paris and in Switzerland as well. Piedmont is known for its veal, white truffles (although not in season now), wonderful cheeses, such as gorgonzola and robbiolo, and of course, as I learn more I will share...you too have a ball.

Frederick, MD: Wow. I love the 10:1 ratio on the wine thing...how is the local brew? er, local red?

Kim O'Donnel: As I said earlier, the local wine is pretty darn fabulous. Last night, in addition to the 85 Barbera, we had a Merlot/Dolcetto blend and a couple of bottles of younger wine...and all of it was interesting and felt fresh and lovely. We met a guy who owns a vineyard ( we had had his wine a few nights before) and he invited a group of us to check out his winery next Monday, so I'll be sure to give you the report. Again, and I'm sure I'll say it again, I don't think I'll look at wine the same way anymore...already so much more enlightened.

McLean, VA: What is a typical meal sequence where you are? I understand that Italians generally eat much smaller portions of pasta and do not go the appetizer, salad, main course, sweet dessert route..

Kim O'Donnel: Oh yeah, big into the course thing. You start out with il primo (which in most cases has been a pasta dish or a rice dish)...followed by il secondo, your meat, veggie, starch combo...and if it's a three course meal, followed by dessert or fruit or cheese...yes, the portions are definitely smaller and more civilized...

WDC: Kim, I gotta ask ... do the Italians use mayo?

Kim O'Donnel: Glad you asked. You ready for this one? The afternoon we arrived (Monday), we went to a restaurant where they were expecting us (a group of about 18)...the first course was vitello tonnato, which is thinly sliced cold veal with a "tuna-ed" mayonnaise, smeared on top...now, mind you, it was nothing like what I constantly gripe about in the jars...but it was mayo nonetheless and I had to eat it and smile all at the same time... At one point, I laughed to myself because I knew I would have to share this story with you today. If the mayo hadn't been smeared on so thickly, I think I would have been okay. But hey, I survived...and today, I got to eat one of my favorites...bone marrow!

Germantown, MD: Ciao, Kim!

I love, love, love Italy - studied in Bologna for a year & returned for my honeymoon.

My question: I'd love to do homemade whole wheat pastas, but am unsure of proportions of flours - any advice?

Mille grazie!

Kim O'Donnel: If you can hold that thought for about a week, once I've had my pasta class, I'm happy to oblige...please remind me in the coming weeks...

BALA CYNWYD,PA: How is the goat cheese with special crackers?
Love Goat Farmer

Kim O'Donnel: I just have to respond to this because it my mother masquerading as a goat farmer with an inside joke. Lots of love to you. And no, I haven't yet met any goat farmers..or counts...

Washington, DC: I lived in Rome for four months and became addicted to their pasta. However I have found that back in America Italian restaurants do not seem to duplicate the light, fresh taste of Italian pasta...what are they doing differently?

Kim O'Donnel: Well, for starters, they're making it themselves, and in many cases, also hand cutting it...sauces also seem a lot lighter, so that you can taste everything, in balance.

Washington, DC: Hi Kim:

I used to live in Rome for few years before coming back to DC in the early '90s. Italy was where I was introduced to capuccino, espresso, etc. I've always wondered how the Italian stuff compares to what we get at Starbucks -- it seems a little more gentle than that very robust Starbucks flavor. Have you had a chance to go to a bar and try the coffee? -BTW, Italian "bars" are a completely different concept from what we have here in the States-.

Buona fortuna with your classes!

Kim O'Donnel: Coffee is clearly superior. There's just no comparison. We will be going to a coffee roastery in Torino and I will report on what I find...the flavor is very mellow, espresso doesn't need sugar because it's so smooth...the coffee bars are relaxed and easy...no hype, no fuss, no trendy thing, although I'm not sidling up to a bar in a big city, either...

Crofton, MD: I was on a whirlwind tour of Italy many years ago (Gorgeous country, I would love to visit again). In Venice they served us Asti Spumanti with some traditional tiny, sweet biscuits. I can't remember the name of the biscuits. Can you tell what they are called and if they are available in the States?

Kim O'Donnel: Of course, I don't have the name of the biscuits in front of me but promise to deliver on Monday with an answer, if you can hold out for a few days.

Nancy Drew Girl : Kim,

Wow, an intra-European chat with you. This is cool- who cares if the cell phone doesn't work from w-in the castle. Thanks for getting back to me. The Dutch shop more frequently as well. People seem almost religious about lining up outside their favorite bakery in the morning to buy bread and other treats. I remember having fabulous yogurt in Italy. Even the lowfat-nonfat seemed much creamier and richer than what we have in the states. Skim milk over there too- it just tastes better. Have you noticed this? I suppose it could have to do with what the cows eat. -don't know if you do yogurt due to the white, gloppy factor-

Ciao again.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, way cool. And I agree with you on the non-glop factor on the yogurt...banana is pretty tasty. Dutch coffee is pretty good too, if I remember correctly...

Buon Gustaia da Bethesda, MD: Are you be doing hands-on cooking or just watching with the rest of the class? What is seasonal right now?

Kim O'Donnel: I am wearing my chef whites and doing all the stuff just like the rest of the class. They all know I'm here to produce my program as well as multimedia stuff but I'm expected to perform just like the rest of'em. Seasonal right now are artichokes, and I think strawberries, and I don't know what else at the moment...the kiwis, I wish I could bring back. They are twice the size and heavenly, juicy and full of flesh and oh! the blood oranges, big and full and much sweeter than the ones we get.

DC-Italian: Bojourno Kim!

This is strange I spoke to you a few weeks ago regarding Americans making food bourgeois...and how my country Italy, simply selects fresh food and excellent wines.

I had no idea you were going to my Country. How long will you be there? Is this your first trip to Italy? One last thing...please do not insult me or my country...without allowing yourself to absorb the romance of my country, I am not speaking of the physical but the spiritual. Then you will be able to manipulate the true making of pasta.

Ciao

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for logging on, il mio amico. I will be here until April 4, and I will be doing discussions on Thursdays and Mondays while here ( for a total of 6)...I didn't know I was insulting you or your country, was I? All I can say it's been wonderful so far, and I am letting myself just soak up everything...And one of goals is to make better pasta, since I could not master it while in cooking school. Please tune in while I'm here...love to hear from you. And where are you from originally in Italia?

Dupont Circle - WDC: Oysterboy doesn't realize how importante you are to Live Online - he doesn't know that you and Vic are the Ones - yeah - there's other staff of course but I see you guys all over the place and in all discussion areas - producing, creating, etc. Keep up the work. At the moment I am checking in on Phyllis Richmond, the George Bush-Shrub discussion and you Kimmy.

Another Kim

Kim O'Donnel: Yay! Thanks for the warm wishes. I will do my best to keep you in the loop and make you feel like you're right here with me...so keep logging on, Kim.

WDC: What are truffles? Are they mushrooms? Then I hear about them and chocolate - you know, chocolate truffles? Please clarify.

Kim O'Donnel: Truffles in this case are not chocolates but things in the ground that are foraged by dogs or pigs...the closest thing you could compare it to is a very intense mushroom...they are extremely prized and expensive and generally are shaved raw on top of risotto or pasta, among other things. In season here in winter time, so we missed out.

Sticks, Mt. Airy: Kim, yes I'm dying of jealously, but really hope you are enjoying yourself (just don't end up in another bush huh? teasing you).

Are you going to learn any cheesemaking or have a chance to see any farms where some of the lovely italian cheeses are made?

And isn't the Piedmont famous for truffles, and are you indulging, or will you learn to forage -if the season is right?-.

enjoy yourself -and yeah...earn your pay too

Kim O'Donnel: we will be going to a few local cheese making places in the coming week, and I'll give you details then. Can't wait. The cheese so far has been spectacular. What else can I say? It's just there...in all its glory.

MetroCenter DC: -Sigh- I'm so envious of you, Kim! Would 6+ years selling organic veggies for one of the farmers at Takoma Park Farmers Market count as any sort of food experience? I certainly know my veggies!
Would love to see pix!

Kim O'Donnel: Maybe...wouldn't hurt to call the New York office and talk with the director there to inquire. And yes, pics on the way, promise girl scout's honor.

Kim O'Donnel: Folks, I've got to run. There's food waiting downstairs and wine to drink. I know, pull out the violins. Plus, the server is acting up, very slow. Tune in next Monday and I'll tell you all about my weekend excursion to Genoa, in the Liguria region and home of PESTO!
Ciao...