By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman comes to Live Online at washingtonpost.com every Thursday at noon. In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Phyllis has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Phyllis is on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web.

Want to know what's new and notable on the restaurant scene? Turn to Phyllis. Got a bone to pick with the most recent review? Let Phyllis know.

Here is a copy of today's transcript.

Adams Morgan: Hi Phyllis,

One quick message in support of a restaurant on Valentine's Day. My boyfriend made reservations at Clyde's and I was nervous about service etc. but we ended up having a fantastic time. The restaurant wasn't overcrowded and the service was fantastic! The restaurant had created these sushi rolls that they served as complimentary "pre-appetizers" and they had roses for the ladies. Yes, prices were a bit high than usual but nothing extraordinary. All in all, it was a lovely evening, with the exception of the couple seated next to us. The guy insisted on staring at us to see how much we were putting down for a tip. It was most disconcerting. Other than that, it was wonderful.

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everyone. I still have a lot to learn. I thought that after two years of doing this I'd finally figured out how to start this discussion with my greeting rather than a reader's question. Nope, I haven't yet mastered it.

So: Welcome to one more sunny Thursday restaurant gabfest. Let's go from here, flawed as my grasp of the techniques may be.

I'm glad to hear a happy Valentine's Day tale. It sounds as if Clyde knows how to do a holiday right. All of you take note for next year.

New York, NY: Phyllis:

I have been an avid reader of your column since I was a student at Georgetown in the early 1980's. When I moved away in 1986 I subscribed to the Post just to continue reading your column. I also made sure to purchase your dining guides over the years -including that hard-to-find--at least outside of D.C.--version published by Ortho in 1989-. I have never missed one of your chats. And I can't believe that my devotion to you is all that unique.

That is why I was devastated to learn that you are retiring shortly -which was mentioned at the very end of last week's chat-. I have four questions for you:

1- Is it voluntary?

2- Is your health fine?

3- Will you continue to do the chats with your loyal fans every Thursday?

4- Is there any way we can talk you out of retirement?

In any case, I wish you well, and I thank you for all the great years of helping us sort through and appreciate Washington's dining scene. It has come a long way since you started, wouldn't you agree?

Phyllis Richman: What a tribute! What a library! What a filing system! Thank you.I'm really proud to have such readers.

To answer your specific questions:

1. Yes, it is indeed voluntary.

2. I am feeling great.

3. I don't know how long I'll continue these discussions. That is under discussion. I'll certainly let you know when it is decided.

4. I'm touched by your offer,but the Post already tried. No, I am convinced this is the right time to leave (while you're all still reading my stuff). It's a wonderful job, but after nearly 24 years, I've had all the challenge and pleasure of it many times over, and I want to try civilian life. There is much I'll miss, no doubt (probably not exactly what people would expect me to miss) but it will be very satisfying to go to the restaurants I choose rather than those I must visit, to just enjoy them and not have to evaluate them, to cook more and to stay home more and to do more different kinds of writing.

I will still, of course, be a writer. And I hope you will continue to be my readers, no matter what I continue writing.

Suitland, MD: Phyllis -

I, like all your other fans, am in mourning over your upcoming retirement. You'll be missed, though of course I'll continue to read your mysteries!

I did think of a bright spot though. Does this mean that we will finally be able to see a real photo of you? Perhaps you can go to someplace like GlamourShots and have a real sexy, fun shot taken!?

Phyllis Richman: Not quite yet. I'm still doing the column for the next couple of months. And Playboy hasn't called.

But, sure. I'll soon no longer have to hide from cameras (at least not for professional reasons, maybe for aesthetic reasons). Earlier this week I gave a speech at the Corcoran. And for the first time I didn't wear my ridiculous disguise. It felt great.

On the other hand, as a civilian, I didn't get even close to the buffet table before it was finished. Every coin has two sides.

Kensington, MD: A lament rather than a question: The news of your retirement feels like the closing of Giffords - a life-changing loss on the Washington scene. I'm sure the Post will have a fine restaurant critic, but your history with us unique and invaluable. I am really sorry that we are losing another significant part of our local culture.

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. That is a comparison that touches me. Not that anything I ever did could live up to Gifford's hot fudge sauce or peppermint stick ice cream.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis -

I was at the Corcoran Gallery on Tuesday for your lecture and really enjoyed hearing your impressions of the Washington restaurant scene. I asked the question regarding your most memorable dining experiences. Could you mention again the name of the restaurant in the Napa Valley that you found so wonderful? My husband and I will be traveling there in June and would love to try that restaurant, so any menu suggestions that you could make would be appreciated also.

Thank you!

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. And the Napa restaurant is the French Laundry. It's necessary t o make reservations first thing in the morning exactlyi two months ahead.

Washington, DC: Has anyone tried Meiwah? It is a new Asian restaurant at New Hampshire and M Streets. We are considering doing an office lunch there -- if you all give me the ok.

Thanks!

By the way, we will miss you Phyllis!! When will your last review be?

Phyllis Richman: Again,thanks. I haven't quite figured out the details of my departure but my last column will probably run about the end of May (at last, a beach season for me!).

As for Meiwah, it's the brand new Chinese restaurant owned by Larry Lau, who used to run City Lights of China. And much of the staff came to join him. What could be bad?

I'll wait a bit before I try it, so let me know what you think.

Bethesda, MD: Sorry to hear that you are retiring, but I can understand wanting to do something new or different after that many years on the beat.

Have you heard anything about the new restaurant going in the new building at 14th and F, across the street from Red Sage? I passed by there the other day, and there was a notice that the owners had applied for a liquor license, but there was not a name for the restaurant.

Phyllis Richman: Yes, you know what I mean when I say I need a change after two dozen years. (I think the column could also benefit from a new voice and a new perspective, too.)

That restaurant at 14th & F is probably Butterfield 9, to be run by Umbi Singh of New Heights, I believe. Last I'd heard, the chef was going to be Martin Saylor, of the Hay Adams and the British Embassy.

It will open this summer, I think. So someone else will have to review it. I"ll wait with all the rest of you to hear how it is.

SSMD: Hi Phyllis,
I echo the sentiments of all your other fans. I guess I'll just have to get my Phyllis dose through your mysteries.

Just wanted to share with the group - I went to Johnny's Half Shell on Saturday for the first time. Both food and service were great, and a good value. The only drawback was the dining room was very crowded -at 5:30!- and very noisy. I will definitely go back, but will probably choose an even less busy time of day.

Phyllis Richman: I hope to keep those mysteries coming faster. No. 2 will be in paperback this summer, and I'm finishing up No. 3 to be published next year.

Johnny's Half Shell is small and justifiably popular, so it is definitely one to consider for off-hours, when you're hungry in the middle of the afternoon. Or early in the week.

Arlington VA: Phyllis -

The Post Magazine will never be the same! -sniff- -sniff-

I subscribe to several foodie magazines. Often there are huge ,agazine sponsored culinary events ie - Food & Wine in Aspen -I think- and Bon Appetit in Las Vegas, etc.

Are these events interesting, informative, and "worth it" -although that IS subjective- to the hoi polloi or are they geared towards foodies who have more "dough?" HA HA!!

Seriously though I am considering an event like this as a brithday vacation next year -Champagne Tasting at 8.30 AM sounds like fun!- but I am afraid that I will be overwhelmed by the crowd.

Thanks

Phyllis Richman: I hope the Magazine won't be the same - after all, now I get the fun of reading a fresh review each Sunday. And maybe it will be better.

Food events can be great fun and if you choose well, a priceless experience. Crowded, certainly, but if they weren't, they would not be able to exist.

Maybe you should try a local one - e.g. Taste of DC - first, before you splurge on a faraway one. I havent been to Food & Wine's or Bon Appetit's, but their programs sound excelllent to me.

Washington, DC: I love the latin dim-sum lunch that Cafe Atlantico offers on Saturdays. Do any other DC restaurants serve anything similar, in terms of offering "tasting" portions for a fixed price, for either brunch or lunch on the weekends?

Phyllis Richman: Only Chinese dim sum restaurants, as far as I know. It's a great way for a restaurant t o showcase its new offerings.

Alexandria, Va.: Phyllis! I am sorry to hear about your upcoming retirement. Thanks for all your work! I have a question, I am becoming hopelessly addicted to the chicken sadwiches and hot sauce at Crisp & Juicy on Lee Highway. I belive it is Peruvian style, is that true? And are there any other places like it?

Phyllis Richman: There are many -eg, Pollo Loco. But Crisp & Juicy (which has several branches ) is my favorite.

Wash DC: What have you heard about the new rest. opening in the old Garfinkels space?

Phyllis Richman: That's Butterfield 9. See above.

Herndon, VA: Ms. R: I knew that Sonny would eventually have to quit quarter-backing, I knew Cal Ripken's consecutive game streak would eventually end, but I wasn't prepared for you to quit so soon. Before you start writing your memoirs - perhaps you could tell us the best and worst restaurant meals you've ever had. Please keep chatting on Thursdays as long as you feel like it!!

Phyllis Richman: Hey thanks. Maybe now I'll have enough time to learn who Cal Ripken is.

Maybe we should do a chat devoted to bests and worsts. I'll start with one small example. A best: the first Ethiopian meal I ever had, at Mamma Desta's on Ga. Ave. A worst: an Ethiopian dinner of old, old shrimp, etc., at the Red Sea many years ago (I hear it's improved since then).

Pick a category, I've had the best and the worst of it.

Wash DC: Speaking of New Heights, have they named a new chef to replace John Wabeck?

Phyllis Richman: I haven't heard yet, but from what I hear, whoever's cooking (presumably the sous chef) is keeping up the standards.

Bethesda, Md.: Hello, Phyllis--Congrats on your retirement! You will be greatly missed. I'm curious--as a civilian, will you base your restaurant selections on what future critics have to say? Will you follow your usual rule about not going to a new restaurant until the kinks are worked out, or will you be first in line when it opens?

Phyllis Richman: Good question. I'm curious about the answer myself. Of course I will rely on critics - at least the good ones. As for hitting new restaurants, I would definitely have been in line the morning Pho 75 reopened, but for big-deal restaurants, I'll probably wait even longer than I do now.

Washington, D.C.: Phyllis:

Gosh, you will be missed! Arguably only Ben Bradlee is more crucial to the Post, but I would argue that you are the best feature of that paper. Good luck to you in your future endeavors. Please keep in touch with all of us.

Upon hearing of your retirement, my neighbors and I began to wax nostalgic about some old Washington classics like Gifford's, Le Lion d'Or, the Big Cheese and the Hot Shoppes. Someone mentioned that the Key Bridge Marriott is currently creating an exact replica of a 1950's-era Hot Shoppe. I hadn't heard that. Do you know whether it is true or not?

Phyllis Richman: Blush. I don't know what to say. . .

Oddly, I've been thinking of the Big Cheese and Hot Shoppes a lot lately. Maybe not oddly: It is a nostalgic time for me.

I hadn't heard about the Marriott's revival of the Hot Shoppes, but it should be possible. I still have the recipe fo r the chicken noodle soup, a Mighty MO cann't be hard to replicate, and anyone who tries could do a proper hot fudge ice cream cake.

Arlington, VA: The best expensive meal: Charlie Trotter's in Chicago, the worst, Smith and Wollinsky in New York.

Phyllis Richman: Interesting choices. Not S & W here?

Washington DC: What are some of the more memorable
ways restaurateurs have tried to
get you to come to their restaurant?

Phyllis Richman: Nothing more than phone calls, letters and employing mutual friends to nag me. Nobody's sent a limo.

I guess at least as many would have liked to find ways to keep me away from their restaurant.

Washington, DC: Hi there Phyllis,
I have two questions for you:
1-Have you ever eaten at a place in Adams-Morgan called the Little Fountain Cafe? Cute place, nice wine list. I had a lackluster salad but found the pork medallians quite tasty.
2-When are you going to review the Washington Post cafeteria?

Phyllis Richman: 1. I'd say your description of Little Fountain Cafe matches what I found.

2. I'll review the WP cafeteria when it opens to the public.
(And in contradiction of printed reports, I've never eaten a chili dog there. I'm a soup-and-salad gal, with an occasional splurge on a tuna sandwich.)

Chevy Chase, MD: Say it ain't so, Phyllis! Stay with us!

In your years of reviewing, what is the best restaurant in Bethesda?

Phyllis Richman: It's coming up. Keep reading.

Vienna, VA: Congratulations to you, Phyllis, on your retirement. We'll miss you, but I'm sure you'll benefit from the change. I just wish there was a way to keep you as an Internet presence somewhere so that we could hear your voice regularly instead of waiting for new books. Will you be doing any freelancing, either in written publications or on the 'net? Will you have a home page?

Phyllis Richman: Thank you, thank you. I will continue to write, mostly books but also other things, but I'm taking the change slowly and hope to gradually decide how I most want to spend my time. I've loved doing this discussion group, and am devoted to the internet, so I can't imagine going without any connection to the internet. As for a web page, I haven't been tempted to set one up yet. I'm keeping options open, feeling the freedom in not being tied to fulltime obligations.

Alexandria, Va.: Hi Phyllis,
I will miss your reviews, along with all the rest, and I wish you all the best in retirement. I have a question about these Peruvian chicken places. People are raving about them. Are there any close to Old Town?

many thanks

Phyllis Richman: Lee Highway isn't ALL that far from Old Town.

Silver Spring MD: Phyllis, glas to see your review of L'Etoile, as we are going Saturday night. You know, kosher meat is not juiceless and not dry, at least the kosher meat I have. It may be a shortcoming for this particular place, but not in general. In any event, hoepfully some other kosher establishments will join L'Etoile in this area.

Phyllis Richman: Rather, I hope to see L'etoile improve the quality of its meat. It does a number of things well, which reinforces such hope.

Fairfax: Had a fabulous experience at the Connaught Place in Fairfax City on Saturday night. It really is a hidden treasure -- service, food, atmosphere was beyond compare. The Salmon Tandoori was to die for. They served a beer called Golden Eagle which was also very good.

Phyllis Richman: I've heard other good reports of Connaught Place.

Washington DC: You said you were still going to write after your retirement. What about continuing your restaurant guide even after you retire from the Post?

A BIG FAN

Phyllis Richman: It's nice of you to care, but another restaurant guide is the last thing I want to do. I promise I'll do all I can to get someone else who's GREAT to write the next one.

Arlington, VA: For the Peruvian Chicken question: there is a good Peruvian Chicken place on Leesburg Pike right across from the Skyline Movies. It is called Edy's.

Phyllis Richman: There ya' go.

Takoma Park, MD: Hi Phyllis,
Read the question on best rest. in Bethesda and it reminded me to ask a probably inane question but...where does everyone park when they try to visit a restaurant in Bethesda?? I took a day of a few weeks ago and decided to try the Chipotle Grill on Old Georgetown Road during an "off peak" time. I guess there is no such time in that area. I drove and drove and decided just to come back home. I decided against parking in a garage thinking the parking fee would probably be more than the burrito!

Phyllis Richman: I take the Metro.

Arlington, VA: Last weekend my wife and I went to the Eastwind on King Street. I saw there was a 'Richmond on Resteraunts' review in the lobby, but I didn't read it figuring it would be in the online archive. It's not. I loved the food -- and the service was fantastic -- but it was the first time I'd ever been to a Vietnamese resteraunt, so I was wondering how typical this place is?

Phyllis Richman: I couldn't tell you, since the last time I was at East Wind was 10 or 20 years ago. Did you check the date on the review?

It will be fun to see how many years after I retie our restaurants keep my reviews posted.

Downtown DC: A friend and I checked out Fuzio's last night because I was in the mood for pasta and it was close to the Phillips. Bad move! My dinner was fine, but my friend had problems all night long. First his wine had turned, so he sent it back. He asked for the same chianti I was drinking but was given something totally different and not as good. When he asked the waiter to ask the bartender what he had poured, the waiter made an elaborate show of bringing out a new bottle, showing us the label, and opening it just for us--and it was still the wrong wine. And my friend's pasta order tasted wrong, though we couldn't put a finger on what it was so didn't send it back for another try. But the place was pretty busy with contented looking folks. My friend thought the main problem was that a $8 a plate pasta place with only about a dozen dishes had fifteen wines instead of four standbys, thereby setting themselves up for problems. Can you suggest any other pasta places in Dupont Circle?

Phyllis Richman: It's not too far a walk to San Marco (18th St.) or Pasta Mia (Columbia Rd.)

Silver Spring MD: Is it inappropriate to order less than what might be considered a 'whole' meal? For example, a couple appetizers and a drink to satisfy a late afternoon craving in a not-fancy -eg chain- restaurant?

Phyllis Richman: Most restaurants nowadays consider that perfectly okay, especially early in the eveniing or late afternoon. To save yourself some discomfort you might ask before you are seated.

Dupont Circle: Why does Pesce bill itself as a "fish market?" Can I purchase raw fish there for home?

Good luck on your future endeavors but keep the books coming. I love Chas!

Phyllis Richman: Yes, you can buy fish and seafood at Pesce to cook at home. I do that on occasion.

Chas and I thank you.

Fairfax: Do you cook much? What is your idea of the perfect meal?

Phyllis Richman: I cook some, and I am going to cook a lot more. I coiuld think of dozens of perfect meals. My Valentine's treat was a a twice-baked potato and broccoli witih anchovies and onions. Not everyone's kind of treat, I recognize, but the point is that it was different from the way I eat most days, so it was a treat.

Time's up. Thank you for all your kind and generous responses to my retiring. Now next week, I offer time to all of you who are rejoicing, and want to tell me what you've never had the nerve to say before. I'll get ready. . .