By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman comes to Live Online at washingtonpost.com every Thursday at noon. In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Phyllis has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Phyllis is on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web.

Want to know what's new and notable on the restaurant scene? Turn to Phyllis. Got a bone to pick with the most recent review? Let Phyllis know.

Here is a copy of today's transcript.

Alexandria, VA: Hi Phyllis - I don't think we could ask for a nicer Thursday! Just wanted to make people aware that there's a great fundraiser going on today for Food & Friends. Many restaurants in the DC area are contributing 25% of their proceeds from today's dinner -and in some cases, lunch- sales to Food & Friends. The organization prepares and delivers meals and groceries to over 900 people with AIDS in the metro area. I'm not affiliated with the group in any way, but think it's a nice way to go out and have a good meal for a good cause.
A complete list of the restaurants that are participating in "Dining Out for Life" is available at http:--www.foodandfriends.org-html-dineout-index.html

Thanks for all the great chats!

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everyone, and welcome to the first days of summer (yet maybe not the last days of winter--we'll see). It's been fun seeing the sidewalk tables being set up this early in the season. Yesterday Ben & Jerry's at Dupont Circle ran out of cones.

I'm glad to be reminded and pass along the news about today's Food & Friends fundraiser. This organizations has long been putting on some of the best-run fundraisers I've ever seen - and of course for a good cause. So pick your outdoor-cafe dinner tonight from its list if you want your dinner to serve a double function.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis. I was reading Wine Spectator and saw an article ranking the ten best restaurants in the country. The Inn at Little Washington was tied for fifth, I think. I was wondering whether you think it is possible to truly rank restaurants on a national scale, and how much of these rankings depend on reputation as much as any objective factor. I mean, what seperates a place like, say, Kinkead's from one of these elite restaurants? With that said, my one visit to the Inn was no doubt the best meal I have ever had.

Phyllis Richman: I think you've answered your own question. An extraordinary restaurant is easy enough to identify when you eat there. On the other hand, I consider it nearly impossible and certainly misleading to compare all restaurants on one scale. Kinkead's is a very different kind of restaurant from the Inn. It's superb for its type, just as the Inn is world-class among top-priced country inns.

Herndon, VA: Ms. R: My wife is "surprising" me with a dinner at Galileo's "laboratorio." Since, as I understand it, the chef-owner is running the show, are there any differences in tipping procedures, or do I just do 20%+ of the bill? Thanks

Phyllis Richman: The tip is for the waiter, not the chef, so you should tip just as you would in any equivalent restaurant.

NW Washington DC: Greetings, Ms. R.
2 things. First, Benjarong, the lovely Thai restaurant in N Rockville has closed! I asked a neighboring store if it had moved, and she said she heard it may, in about 6 months in another space at Wintergreen Plaza on Rte 355. I hope they do re-open soon, it's one of our very favorite restaurants.

Second, on our last visit to Hollywood East, the delicious Chinese restaurant in Wheaton, I noticed something on our credit card receipt. It's something that a computer program puts in automatically, and it lists tip amounts based on 15% or 20% of your total on the receipt. But there were 2 things wrong there: first, it computed your tip on the total AFTER the tax. I always thought tip was computed on the PRE-tax total. Second, I noticed that the suggested tip amounts rounded up to the next 10 cents. As a result of both these little loopholes, the suggested tips are NOT exactly 15% or 20%, but higher. Of course people tip what they want to tip, but don't take those suggested tip amounts at face value. Depending on your pre-tax total, it's more like 18%-25% of your bill. I just wish that suggested tip program was more honest & accurate.

Phyllis Richman: Those tip charts at the bottom of credit card slips amuse and irritate me. They not only compute the tip after the tax, if your tip has been included in the bill (e.g.for a large party or in a city such as Miami where tips are routinely included), it still recommends a 15 or 20 percent or whatever tip. So read cautiously and don't be too suggestible.

Before I forget, I want to issue an apology. In my last on-line discussion, I dismissed Chipotle Grill because it is owned by McDonald's,and I was taken to task by one of you. Rightly so. I was too flippant and making unwarranted assumptions. Since I haven't tried Chipotle Grill, I had no business judging it.

Have any of you tried it?

Washington, DC: Phyllis:
A friend and I visited the new Meiwah Restaurant recently. Larry La, the previous owner of City Lights of China, is running this place and has taken a number of ex-City-Lights staff with him. We had a very reasonably priced meal. The food was delicious and the service was outstanding. Spread the word--Washington, DC has another great Chinese restaurant!

Phyllis Richman: If you were a fan of City Lights under its original owner, you're likely to be a fan of his new Meiwah. I'll review it when it has settled in.

Washington Dc : Hi Phyllis hope all is well today! I am really sorry to hear that you are leaving your position. Not a question today but a comment! CAFE ATLANTICO is there a better restaurant in town? I have always liked but last night took the cake. I was going to have dinner with a friend. The manager took us to the table and told us about the specials and about the Chefs menu and offered us a special Chefs menu if we were intrested. We accepeted the special menu and asked him to pick a wine to go with the menu. We then precided on a Culinary Adventure we had a 16 course menu that the chef prepared for us. I have never had such a dining experience in my life. It was wonderful. Thanks for your time.

Phyllis Richman: I'm glad to hear my old favorite Cafe Atlantico is still on track after chef Jose Andres left.

WDC: Greetings Phyllis! My boyfriend from San Francisco is coming to town... and last time he was here, we ate at DC Coast. He loved the food and the restaurant itself, but I really want to take him somewhere else... for variety's sake. My question is this... if he really liked DC Coast, do you know of any other restaurants that would provide similar prices and unbelievable choices in a fantastic setting? This is a big one -- for his birthday.
Thanks... oh... and "Murder on the Gravy Train" was great... keep writing!

Phyllis Richman: You've just had your answer: Try Cafe Atlantico (though I warn you, it's noisy). And wish your boyfriend a happy birthday from all of us. Be sure to start with a caipirinha, a lime-cachaca drink that makes for happy birthdays or un-birthdays.

Vienna, VA: Hi Phyllis! My husband and I visited a restaurant that you recommended highly in your dining guide. Our appetizers and entrees were so wonderful that we'll definitely go back, but dessert was a bit puzzling.

We ordered a creme brulee to split, and it arrived covered with black specks. Not just a few spots, everywhere. We looked at it dubiously, but tried it anyway. The taste was somewhere between burnt marshmallow and just plain gritty char, and it wasn't good. We called the waitress back and explained pleasantly that we'd like to send the dessert back.

She told us that creme brulee means "burnt cream" and that this is how they always make it. I know the literal translation, but I've never been surved truly BURNT creme brulee before. She finally agreed to take the dessert back and bring us another that was not blackened, but made it sound as if we were asking for the moon.

Have you ever been served blackened creme brulee before? Were we out of line in expecting a golden brown topping rather than char?

Phyllis Richman: Yes, creme brulee really means burt cream. But in this case burned means very very browned, not actually singled. Your creme brulee sounds as if it was really singed, and you were right to send it back. It should be dark but well short of black. And not taste cindery.

Potomac, Md: We need an suggestion for an early dinner this Saturday night near Dupont Circle....
What was the name of the Franchesco Richi-SP- restaurant which just opened? anything else new and fun?

Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: Etrusco is its name. Or Etrusca (I have a feeling the name is spelled differently from what it was originally said to be).

As for new and fun, I've found some interesting places, believe it or not, in Bethesda. WAtch for reviews of Raku and Fairmont Bar & Grill. In DC, I haven't been to Cafe Citron, just below Dupont Circle, but it looks awfully cute,and the Latino menu sounds interesting.

Rockville, MD (part time): For the person upset about Benjarong -- I used to love their food, but it had gone downhill the last couple of years. However, Tara Thai further down Rockville Pile is FABULOUS. I think it is much better than Benjarong, and I wonder if Tara had anything to do with Benjarong's closing?

Phyllis Richman: One more Tara Thai? I'm glad to hear that it retains its quality as it expands.

Singers Glen, VA: Have you tried Tempo's in Alexandria, and if so what did you think?

Phyllis Richman: It's an awfully nice restaurant with a good chef, an interesting and extensive menu and gracious service. What more could you ask?

Washington, DC: Add me to the many sad voices reacting to your retirement. I think the reaction has been swift and dramatic because food brings a certain intimacy between people -- even strangers. Something to ponder.... Have you been to new fish store in Arlington, Slavin & Sons? Selection, quality and prices are good in my view. YOU WILL BE MISSED.......

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. Now that I'll have more time to cook, news of a new fish store is particularly welcome.

Desperately Seeking German: So where does a person have to go around here to find a good German restaurant? I'm tired of haveing to drive all the way to West Virginia to the Bavarian Inn to get a taste of Germany. The 1763 Inn in Upperville is good but it is still a little to far to drive. Can you please recomend a good German restuarant in the area?

Phyllis Richman: We have several German restaurants, though I don't find any across-the-board worthy. Try Cafe Berlin, Cafe Mozart or the Old Europe. But expect to have to weed out some disappointments as you unearth the good stuff.

Bethesda, MD: Hi, Phyllis! I am so excited to write to you. My boyfriend and I use your restaurant guide every weekend. We absolutely love your suggestions! I have been to several beautiful restaurants which are located in townhouses in Baltimore for brunch and dinner. Do you know of any in DC. I have been to Two Quail and I loved it. Thanks, Phyllis! You are the best!

Phyllis Richman: Why, thank you. But even after such praise I fear I am about to disappoint you. Townhouse restaurants aren't as prevalent (or interesting) here. Cafe Berlin is more-or-less one, as is Petitto in Cleveland Park. And t here is a Russian restaurant just north of Dupont Circle, but you have to reserve ahead because it isn't simply open to the public - a sort of odd place.

Any of y ou have more suggestions?

Chicago, IL: Phyllis, please settle a debate: in the middle of the week we went to a nice, relatively upscale restaurant dressed rather casually -including jeans-, but were happily greeted and directed in. At that point we received poor service, and were seated in a corner, when there were other tables available. A table next to us, where everyone was wearing office attire, was largely fawned over. Should the manner of one's dress, when graciously welcomed and seated, make a difference for degree of service -the restaurant was slow, and we know better than to go in relaxed garb on Friday or Saturday nights-? Or is it just being a victim of "well they're young and not dressy, so they must be cheap"?

Incidentally, when we complained that we were ignored -literally-, we were told the waiter was their "best." We encouraged them to thereafter keep their best to themselves.

Sorry to hear you're leaving, but happy retirement!!

Phyllis Richman: It's hard to know what causes bad service, but it is just as likely that the other group were regulars or friends as it is that you were singled out for mistreatment. I think, though, that if a waiter somehow senses you're not big tippers, that sometimes - not usually but sometimes-- makes a difference.

Arlington, VA: Of townhouse restaurants, don't Obelisk meet this definition?

Phyllis Richman: Ah, of course. Thank you. And its next-door Pizzeria Paradiso.

Leesburg Virginia: When are you coming to Leesburg? I'll send the limo. You said in a previous live chat no one has done that for you before. You need to get out of the city and enjoy some country air and have dinner at Lightfoot. Just send me a time and date.

Phyllis Richman: A limo sounds great. Did you say you're the owner of Lightfoot?

Perhaps the Post will choose as my successor someone who loves to drive.

Alexandria, VA: To the person looking for townhouse restaurants: does Bilbo Baggins in Old Town qualify? It is a cute, sometimes a little too close-quartered, but the food is good, especially brunch on the weekend.

Phyllis Richman: Yes, another one I should have remembered. Thanks for acting as my memory bank.

Washington D.C: Hi Phyllis how would you rate the Appetizer Plus Restaurant & Sushi Bar in Rosslyn VA

Phyllis Richman: If I recall correctly, that's the one with all-you=can-eat sushi. If so, I think you've got to eat a lot of rice to get enough fish to taste. It's shaved very thin, and it's not first-rate fish anyway.

Jewish Deli: Phyllis, My husband and I have been searching for a good Jewish deli in the DC area...any suggestions? Thank you!

Phyllis Richman: Yes: Take the Metro to Union Station and Amtrak to NY. Then take the subway to Second Avenue Deli.

WP DC: for the person looking for townhouse style dining.. Oblesik is an option. Also, do you know the name of the Russian place north of dupont?

Phyllis Richman: I think it's called Russia House.

Washington DC : I agree with Cafe Atlantico being a good choice to tak an out of town guest. I had a 15 course culinary adventure there last night. The manager offered us a special Chefs menu and we took him up on it. It may have been the best dining experince I have ever had. The whole night was wonderful from the manager picking a wine for us to the Chef coming down to talk to us when we were done. I highly recomend it.

Phyllis Richman: Two raves. Pretty convincing.

Dupont Circle: Phyllis, for Lent I'm going low fat and healthy. Where can I eat around here besides Subway?

Your faithful reader -of mysteries more so than reviews - and how is Chas? and that upstart daughter of hers?-

Phyllis Richman: Chas is just about to confront the murderer in her third mystery, and her daughter is as mercurial as ever. Thanks.

As for Lenten dining, you'll find that easier than ever this year. The new American restaurants all have fish and vegetar ian options (see the veggie entree at Fairmont Bar & Grill!), the ASian restaurants have several lowfat options, and we have more seafood restaurants than ever. I haven't been to Thyme Square (in Bethesda) in years, but it is nearly vegetarian.

dc: re: jewish delis...have you been to krumpkin's near AU? they have lox and herring and rugula.

Phyllis Richman: Do you mean Krupin's? That's a WASHINGTON deli, not a NY deli.

Mclean Va: Hi. I don't know if you do any opining on DC bars but I'll ask anyway: Why is it that bartenders here seem to expect a tip each time they serve you, as opposed to leaving a final tip at the end of the night? Is it really right to charge upwards of $7 for a drink and then expect to be handed some cash each time on top of that? Thanks

Phyllis Richman: The fact that they expect it doesn't mean you need to give it.

Tysons Corner, VA: Re: Townhouse Restaurant. I recommend Santa Fe East in Old Town Alexandria. I went there recently, and I really felt like I was eating in someone's home..very cute and cozy, with fireplaces and all And, the tables are pretty far apart, which is rare in this kind of restaurant. I HATE eating places where you feel like you are also having dinner with the table next to you. Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: I agree. I'd prefer to hear my dinner partner more clearly than the next-table neighbor.

Let me go back to the last question. I realize I may have misinterpreted it. It is appropriate to tip the bartender if you're moving on to a table for dinner. You can't be sure that th e bartender will get a portion of the tip you leave at the table. I think that if you pay for your drinks at the bar, that;s the time to leave a tip. If you're running a tab, leave the tip when you settle it up.

Leesburg Viginia: yes I am the owner of Lightfoot. I met you at the Corcoran Gallery. Loved the lecture. You gave me new insight on how you look at restaurants. I'm glad you look at everything from employment problems in DC to the fact that the restaurant business is hard business to make a living.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. And I look forward to someday providing my own transportation to Leesburg and trying your place.

Dupont: Does anybody else think it's a little weird that both raves on Cafe Atlantico were worded exactly the same way, w- the same description of the food? Hmmmm.... sounds like a plug to me.

Phyllis Richman: I read your questions so fast (sorry, but I like to fit as many as ppossible into the hour) that I didn't notice if that was true. I do vaguely recall, though, that each of those discussers had a different number of courses. You all can check for y ourself (and I 'll check after the chat).

Washington, DC: Low-blow on the NY deli thing ... I can't argue with you, though.

The Parkway Deli in Silver Spring has great non-sandwich deli-fare -e.g., matzo ball soup, brisket, herring, etc.-. As for sandwiches ... ya gotta go to NYC.

I really miss Pastrami King in Brooklyn.

Phyllis Richman: I didn't say DC delis were all bad. But for deli greatness, you've got to head north.

Arlington, VA: For bartenders and tips: I put $20 under an ashtray -so -s-he sees I have the money and say I'm going to run a tab. It always works since they know you'll have more than one.

Phyllis Richman: Do you actually leave that $20? Sounds like good advertising, and probably effective.

Wash DC: Hi Phyllis-- Will miss the chat. How much longer will you be doing it? Two questions. First, how much should you tip a somolier? I have never used one, mostly because I am a bit intimidated, and am afraid they will recommend outside my price range. second question- have you ever been to the Highmeadows Inn in Scottsville,VA? It is supposedly noted for its food and VA wine pairings. I did not find it to be outstanding. Adequate at most -though the inn itself is delightful-. Thoughts about any of this? Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Never heard of Highmeadows.

By all means, use the expertise of the sommelier. You don't have to tip him/her, since the sommelier either gets a cut from the management on each bottle or shares in the tip for the waiter. If he or she does some really special service for you, a tip is always welcome and a nice thank-you. But it is not necessary.

Washington, D.C.: I, too, noticed the similarity between the two Cafe Atlantico raves. But it's more likely that both raves were from different people--the two people who ate there last night. They're probably both hanging out in the chat room!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I hope so.

Burke, VA: For the lowfat diner: I try to eat healthy, low fat food and I find that almost every single restaurant I go to has at least one healthy option. The PROBLEM I have is being able to resist the temptation to order something yummy and full of fat when you are hungry and when everyone else at the table is ordering whatever they want. Until you can do that, you might want to stick to Subway.

Phyllis Richman: Exactly, though Subway isn't the solution I'd' choose.

Arlington, VA: Speaking of delis, how about Baltimore? There used to be several on Lombard Street, Attman's and Jack's, although I don't know if they are still there. Any Balto. suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: They're not what they once were. Too institutional.

Capitol Hill: I had a wonderful dinner at La Colline recently and was served jointly by two waiters. One was wonderful--personable and attentive; the other -who seemed to have more status- tried to rush us through and seemed to ignore us when we tried to get his attention. We left a generous tip so as not to penalize the "good" waiter, assuming the tip was shared. But we wished we could have made sure he got the lion's share. What could we-should we have done?

Phyllis Richman: Interesting dilemma. I suppose you could seek out the good waiter and personally hand him or her the tip. Or go to the maitre d' and explain,and ask that your t ip go to the good waiter (which probably won't happen but w ill make the point).

live romantic music and dinner: Hi, Phyllis! My husband and I are am going to miss you!! We just returned from our honeymoon in Italy where we dined in quaint restaurants with live music -guitar-street singer who sang right at our table and a chorus of nuns who sang during dessert and who also served as our waitresses-. Could you recommend a restaurant that has live romantic music reminiscent of Italy?

Phyllis Richman: There was a restaurant in Reston that had singing waiters. But singing nuns? Only in the movies.

mt vernon, va: Phyllis;
Returned from NOLA last week, and I cannot say enough about the Brennan 'family' restaurants. We tried BACCO this time -Chartres ST- and also the four-course-prix-fixe at Brennan's. I don't know what condiment is running in that family's genes, but it works. Please share with your readers; a visit to NOLA without a visit to ONE Brennan is a trip wasted!

p.s.
are you ready for the shad planking?

Phyllis Richman: As I recall, the Brennan family runs Bacco, Commander's Palace, Mr B and m ore, but NOT Brennan's' (which h as never served me a good meal).

Shad planking! when and where? I think there's one that's when I'll be away.

And now an assignment for all of you. Where are we going to find shad in a restaurant here? I've called a dozen or so and not found any. Please let me know (email richmanp@twp.com) if you come across it. I'd hate to let my last spring as a restaurant critic pass without finding shad during its short, sweet season.

Glover Park: Another town house restaurant for the person looking for that: Tabard Inn

Phyllis Richman: Definitely. Since it's a hotel, I forget that it could also be considered a townhouse. Thanks.

WDC: As an exNYer I miss the Deli scene - lunch just isn't the same. The best I've found is Main Street Bagel and Deli in Fairfax. It's a haul but the bagels are the closest to NYC that I've found. -I thought the Second Avenue Deli was undergoing some renovations.-

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear about Main St Deli. Yes, I walked past 2nd ave deli last week and noticed it was being renovated. But I don't expect that to hurt the food at all.

Alexandria, VA: There is a restaurant on S. Washington St., just South of Duke which has opera nights. Might qualify for romantic Italian. It's been there for ever, and is in a town house too. We've never eaten there, so I cannot testify to the food or music.

Phyllis Richman: Name?

For the live music person...: Don't forget to check out Opera Night at Petito's in Woodley Park.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. And it's a townhouse.

Lothian, MD: Hi Phyllis -- will you continue a chat of some sort once you retire from the critic business? In response to the person asking about "made at the table" Caesar salads, if they are in or around the Annapolis area, Middleton Tavern makes both Caesar and Spinach salads at the table.

Phyllis Richman: Good reason to head for Annapolis, in my book.

As for whether I'll continue chatting, I h aven't planned t hat far yet.

DC: Hello. Just a note re: bartender tipping. My fiance is one & you have no idea how many people sit at his bar for a few hours, consume $30 in drinks and leave him $2 at the end. Oooh. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Bah on poor alcoholic tippers. They probably can't still count after hours at the bar.

Woodley Park: Phyllis--Petitto is actually Woodley Park, and as far as I can tell, it's out of business. There hasn't been any activity in there for several weeks. The food wasn't that great anyway, but Dolce Finale will be missed.

Phyllis Richman: Oops.

Washington, DC: What's the scoop on the new place going into the old Garfinckel's? Walked by there earlier today and they seem to be moving in kitchen equipment.

Phyllis Richman: It's Butterfield 9, and the chef is said to be Martin Saylor, who's been at the British Embassy and Hay ADams.

wdc: I think I overheard shad in a recitation of specials at Les Halles last weekend.

Phyllis Richman: I hope it's better than the rest of the food. I'll check on it.

Dupont Circle, DC: Has anyone tried Packer's up on Conn. Ave.?
They have the best smoked eel in town.

Phyllis Richman: New to me. What kind of restaurant is it?

opera nights:
the italian restaurant on s. washington street is Tratorria de Franco. Wonderful waitstaff, terrific pasta and fish dishes, make sure to sample their appetizers -the pate is particularly good.-

And no, I have no connection to the restaurant, but my husband and I did a lot of courtin' there!

Phyllis Richman: As we see, it worked.

Falls Church, VA: RE: Shad
Alas, no, I;ve not seen it on any menus yet. Did you check Clyde's? They seem to try and have fresh local items....
How would I go about cooking shad at home? I saw Safeway has it fresh, whole on sale now....

Phyllis Richman: Clyde's sounds like a good idea. And yes, I am going to cook shad at home this weekend. But having it once a season isn't nearly enough.

So all of you go and check out the shad scene and meet here again next week. See you then.