By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman comes to Live Online at washingtonpost.com every Thursday at noon. In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Phyllis has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Phyllis is on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web.

Want to know what's new and notable on the restaurant scene? Turn to Phyllis. Got a bone to pick with the most recent review? Let Phyllis know.

Here is a copy of today's transcript.

McLean, Virginia: Have you reviewed the restaurant Equinox? Where can I read the review? Also, is it true that you are retiring as Tony Kornheiser stated in his Sunday column?

Phyllis Richman: Hello and welcome to another sunny Thursday lunchless hour. If you'd asked me on Tuesday, I'd have guessed that it was never again going to stop raining. I should have been confident that our string of sunny Thursdays would hold.

Let's start with a quick guide to the Post's on-line reviews. They are under the Entertainment tab,and in addition to my reviews gathered there, you can find thumbnail sketches of restaurants done by the on-line staff and previews of new restaurants done by the on-line restaurant site editor.

I have reviewed Equinox, Todd Gray's restaurant that he opened last summer when he left the kitchen of Galileo. You should be able to find it on-line.

And of course, if Tony Kornheiser says something, it's true. I'm retiring from my restaurant column; the last review will appear around the beginning of June. It's not true, though, that Tony is getting my job. He wasn't willing to give up his sports column to me. Just because I don't know the name of the Redskins coach.

Bethesda, MD: Dear Phyllis,

Are your gentle readers sure that Benjarong has closed forever? Last week, I saw a construction crew at work on their new place in the same shopping center. Also, judging from the large number of Thai families that were patrons there, I am confused by remarks that it had gone downhill. If anything, it's been the reverse.

Phyllis Richman: Maybe someone who lives nearby will report back here. As for whether it's going uphill or downhill, I never expect we'll all agree on such issues. That's what makes a discussion.

Washington, DC: Phyllis - Two quick questions: my husband and I will be in Paris in a few months, and I'd like to take him to a special dinner for his birthday. What are a few "can't miss" restaurants for two people who have never visited the city before?

Also - about those Ann Amernick caramels at Fairmont. Delicious, but how are you supposed to eat them? They're too big to pop into your mouth in one bite, but too hard to cut with a knife. I'm going there this weekend and plan to order that dessert, so I'd love to know the proper way to eat it!!

Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Since I haven't been to Paris in awhile, the best I can do for you is refer you to Patricia Wells' book on Paris restaurants. It's excellent, and she's as reliable a critic as I know.

As for Amernick caramels, if they were hard, they hadn't been stored properly or they were stale. These candies are perishable, and are best eaten within a couple of days but can be kept in the refrigerator for several more. But when they are fresh, they are so soft they practically melt when the warmth of your mouth hits them. At Fairmont they are served fresh, so you don't need to worry about one bite or two.

Capitol Hill: Phyllis, oh Goddess of all that is yummy -

I was in Boston last weekend and experienced dim sum for the first time at a wonderful restaurant in Chinatown -Imperial Garden, for those who might be interested-. It was a fabulous meal at a very reasonable price.

I'm sure you've talked about this before, but as the archives are not yet searchable, I'm wondering if you can give a college student on a modest budget some suggestions for restaurants that serve good dim sum that won't prevent me from making the rent payment this month.

Thanks much. You rock!

Phyllis Richman: Lots of places serve dim sum, and it always can be a very inexpensive meal. In Md and Va there are several restaurants with Fortune in their names that serve good dim sum, and next Sunday I'm reviewing another Md dim sum place. In Chinatown, Mr. Yung's and Tony Cheng's are ok for dim sum.

Tysons Corner, VA: This may be an unusual request but could you recommend some places to celebrate a wedding anniversary not on the food alone but also on the atmosphere?

Frankly, my husband and I enjoy all kinds of food, esp. fish, shrimp, chicken, pork, but found that the food in most restaurants is good -perhaps defined by better than we can cook at home!?- so we enjoy it.

So what really makes or breaks a restaurant for us is the setting. How small is the table? How close are the other diners? How professional are the waiters? Is the decor appealing, either relaxing or vivid but not bland? Does the price match the quality of the food, service and aura? Do we feel rushed? Are the chairs comfortable?

What are those 'extras' that make or break a restaurant for you? I really consider the atmosphere of a rest. as important as the food. Some offer lots of plants, water fountains, moose heads, art. Of course, some hole-in-the walls have exactly that for their atmosphere, but at least it's not bland!

Phyllis Richman: This area is full of beautiful and c omfortable restaurants though they don't always coincide with restaurants that serve g ood food--which is what I tend to care most about.

L'Auberge Chez Francois is probably the premier anniversary restaurant because it has all the atmosphere, comfort and charm that suits a celebration, and the food tends to be quite good. In general, restaurants in the countryside offer more space and quiet than in-town ones.Note the Inn at Little Washington, Bleu Rock, L'Auberge Provencal, Prince Michel, and a new place I've found near Frederick--Hagan's Tavern.

Bethesda, MD (via Stourbridge.UK): Several months ago, someone asked what a "balti" was, and someone posted a comment that it is a type of Indian stir-fry originated in England. Well, I should be having my first balti tonight in the actuall town where they were developed and will report to the group in two weeks when I'm back State-side.

Phyllis Richman: It's new to me. I'll look forward to your report.

Arlington, VA: Great Day!
Re: Benajarong. My husband and I have been going there for years, last time we were there we got the scoop. They are moving to the spot that used to be Kenny Rogers Roasters, and will close for a short time. That whole shopping center is under renovation. And by the way we LOVE Benjarong, tried Tara Thai once, but much prefer the other

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. A Kenny Rogers Roasters was also the site of Greenwood in Cleveland Park (which just closed and, I've heard, is going to be a rather exciting new restaurant).

Arlington, Va: Hi Phyllis,

What will we ever do without your guidance? I dread the Sunday magazine without you. But you certainly deserve to relax and enjoy life- have fun. I was passing a Pho restaurant in Arlington the other day and noticed they now serve breakfast. Any ideas at what one might expect? I have no idea what is served for breakfast in Vietnam, but I am curious.

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. We'll both have a good new critic to read Sunday mornings after June.

What pho restaurants serve for breakfast is the same thing they serve for lunch and dinner: Pho.

Arlington VA: For your reader who is going to Paris, I'd like to suggest Les Bookinists. When I was there -in 1997-, it was a very trendy, bistro-style restaurant and the food was wonderful. While I don't remember the address, it is in the 7th arrondisment, on the left bank of the Seine. While much could have changed since then, it's worth a trip and isn't horribly expensive.

Phyllis Richman: Take the recommendation and run. . .I hope you dine well.

capitol hill: phyllis, please advise!...2 weeks ago, my boyfriend and i went to our fave restaurant, pasta mia in adams morgan. since we go often, we know that we have to arrive early to get a table w-o waiting. we did our part, got there at 6:30ish on a saturday night. well, the hostess seated us right near the kitchen at the worst possible table while there were large empty tables all around -tables of two, put together to make 6-tops-. we asked to sit at another table, but were refused by the manager-owner, though he never came over to us. we explained that we didnt' want that table and that the next "couple" who came in would have to be seated at the 6-top anyway. rarely do large parties gather at such a tiny restaurant. we were denied and had to suffer at our small table. not 5 mintues later, another couple came in and was seated at the empty 6-top -then separated.-. anyway, we were PENALIZED for getting there first. what could we do other than walk out? we had looked forward all week to eating there! the "man in charge" was the one who made the call. what would you have done?

Phyllis Richman: Tough call. There's nothing you can do but choose between eating there uncomfortably or leaving and eating elsewhere (try San Marco, the pasta place down 18th st.). Restaurants are not democracies; you've got to put up with the owner's whims or leave. Sometimes, though, if you get up to leave they find you a new table.

Arlington, VA: Dear Phyllis,

Congratulations on such a wonderful career with the Post. We will miss your voice, but look forward to hearing more from Chas. I don't get dowtown to often anymore and was wondering if Reeve's is still around? I recall them having a fabulous strawberry-rhubarb pie. I believe their strawberry shortcake was quite good as well. Have you had either treat at Reeve's? I hope it's still there -near Woodies?- and serving up that pie.

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. Chas is still busy solving murders; in fact, she just finished s olving one t his year, and you can read about it in a year from now.

As for Reeve's, I think it closed, but I'm not sure. Anyone out there ready to tell us for certain?

Arlington, Virginia: Another good, cheap place for dim sum is Mark's Duck House on Arlington BLVD in the Arlington-Falls Church area. They serve dim sum during lunch on weekdays and weekends. Beware, though, there is usually a wait for tables.

Phyllis Richman: I've heard that.

New York, New York: sorry you are leaving. I must ask, what is the deal with the lack of delicious delis in D.C. with so many ex-new yorker's -- it is shocking. No good corned beef. Aside from that place that used to be Toojays -- where can on find good whitefish, smoked salmon and corned beef within the parameters of the district. Thanks

Phyllis Richman: We've never been a deli town, and what decent delis we have are in the Md. suburbs. But then, NY has never been a steamed-crab town, and even finding a good crab cake there takes some sleuthing.

Annandale, VA:
Hi Phyllis,

I received a very generous gift certificate to Sam and Harry's. Since I've never been there, can you give me your opinion as well as any suggestions from the menu? Also, would you consider both locations -one in Tyson's, one in DC- to be comparable? Or do you prefer one to another.

Thank you!

Phyllis Richman: Just remember that Sam & Harry's is a steakhouse, though I've always liked its crabcakes, too. I haven't been to the Tysons one.

Detroit: Hi Phyllis -- I have a NYC question for you. Have you ever been to Vong, owned by the same man who opened Jean-Georges and Jo-Jo? How does it compare? Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: Jean-Georges is a genius, and his restaurants--especially the one with his name on it--tend to be outstanding. That said, I'm not a fan of Vong. I thhink its food is quite fine,but I'd rather eat Thai food in a Thai restaurant,and at Thai-restaurant prices.

Washington: What was the best meal you've ever had? What, Where, and Why?

Phyllis Richman: A baked potato. At home. Comfort food made for me by a loved one.

Food is context as well as content. I've had some fabulous meals--the Inn at Little Wash. , French Laundry, in cities around the world, at such places as Jean-Louis and Le Pavillon in their heyday. But they are no more wonderful that a simple meal that has particular meaning.

Rockville, MD: I wanted to recommend a terrific restaurant for you or anybody who wants to try N. Indian food but is somewhat jaded by the same old flavors. It is called "Raja Kabob House" although the sign says "Pakistani-Indian Restaurant". It's in a shopping center on the corner of Rte. 28 and Baltimore Rd in Rockville.

It's a no-frills place. Pricing is moderate like Delhi Dhaba but without D.D.'s surly service. Small menu but food is traditional Pakistani -i.e., more Persian influence- and is sensational!

My parents are Indian and complain about most Indian restaurants. But they loved this place.

Phyllis Richman: Got your pencils ready?

Alexandria VA: An idea for a farewell article: some advice on what we as diners should expect and not expect from restaurants -- along with the flip side, how restaurants expect us to behave.

Throughout these discussions you've had questions about tipping, sending food back, ordering wine, cell phones, etc. etc. etc. so there is a lot of ground you can cover, and it seems apparent that not everyone -on both sides- knows "the rules."

Thanks for many years of enlightening reviews.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I'm struggling with what t o write as my last column.

DC: Have you reviewed, or do you know anything about, a new-ish restaurant called Rocky's -I think-? It's on Columbia Rd. by Cashions. I walk past it occasionally, but always on the other side of the street.

Phyllis Richman: Well, cross the street and let us know what you think. I haven't noticed it.

Wash DC: Okay Phyllis-- we trust your judgement... spouse and I want to go all out for exquisite Italian... we don't do this very often.. We have narrowed it down to Obelisk and Galileo. What's your pick? Can you give a few pros and cons to both? Also, do you have an opinion on Le Cirque in NYC, as we have friends that want us to join them for an evening there.

Phyllis Richman: Obelisk: simple, pure, restrained elegance, quiet and personal. Fixed price meal with just a few choices.

Galileo: big, lavish menu with many options, more elaborate cooking, more of a scene, busy and not as personal.

Le Cirque: food can be great but isn't always, service can be gracious but isn't always.

Washington DC: Reeves is still going strong! I haven't had their strawberry rhubarb, but that might be a good choice for tomorrow!

Tell me about Citronelle! We have reservations in a few weeks.

Phyllis Richman: Whew, that's lucky. I'd hate for its strawberry pie to be a thing of the past.

Citronelle is awfully fine. If you want to splurge on the best, ask Michel Richard to do a tasting menu for you.

Georgetown: Hi Phyllis. Re: the question about "the rules" and how people should behave in restaurants. The single most important thing people should remember when they eat out is that waiters and managers are not mind readers.

Phyllis Richman: Good point. Make your preferences, wishes and needs known.

NY: Someone has recommended Matisse or Terrazza, what are your feelings on these restaurants -I am the same person who is looking in Chevy Chase, MD-
Thanks for your words of wisdom!

Phyllis Richman: The good news is that I've heard reliable reports that the food at Matisse has improved. Terrazza has reliably good food--not great but you aren't always seeking great, right?

Political Junkie, Capitol Hill: I've heard that James Carville and Mary Matalin are opening a restaurant - somewhere around 24th-K? What's the scoop?

Phyllis Richman: I am eagerly awaiting it. It's supposed to be opening on 24th between M and N, where Jin-Ga used to be. And given Carville's taste, it's bound to be New Orleans style.

Dupont Circle, DC: A few weeks ago, some folks mentioned restaurants that they miss. Here are the four my Exclusive Other and I miss most: Le Steak -Georgetown - I'd love to find another source of the mustardy steak sauce they used and sold and to find somewhere one can get French fries as good-; Jacqueline's -20th & M Sts. - for spinach salad, back bean soup, and steak au poivre-; Charda's -a little bit of Hungary in Crystal City that provided delicious hearty food all the time and magical moments when the violinist found folks from the old country to sing along-; Christopher's -21st & M Sts., a great neighborhood steakhouse. Same menu is available at Annie's Paramount, but that is too far away from our condominium and too crowded for comfort-; and the short-lived Samplings -2300 block of M St., their "small dishes" menu and three-glass "flights" of wine made dining a wonderful adventure-.

Phyllis Richman: Good list. Especiallyi Le Steak and Charda's; nothing has replaced their particular style.

WDC: Hi, Phyllis,
Yes, Reeves did close back in 1988 - I know because I prepared their final tax return-, but has since reopened on either 13th or 14th Street near Hecht's. Don't know if it's been reopened or if someone bought the name, since I'm no longer with that CPA firm.

Phyllis Richman: That solves it. We were both right. I hope someone will back here in our next discussion re the state of the strawberry pie.

Dupont: Phyllis:

I went to Marrakesh last Sunday. It was my first time for Morrocan food. I didn't know what to expect before I went, and found it interesting, and food was good. Could you guide me how to appreciate what good is really good for a total exotic food?
Thanks for your chat, I will need to find someting else to do on Thursday after your retirement.

Phyllis Richman: I am going to continue the discussion, though it will change because I expect the new critic to have a restaurant discussion. For any of you who are interested, I'll stay around and discuss food in general, dining, cooking, mysteries, writing, the state of DC, anything you'd like--except sports.

So pass along your ideas of what you'd like this discussion to be.

As for exotic cuisines, it's always helpful if you look at a cookbook or menus before (I keep the old Time-Life Foods of the World for such occasions). Then order the specialties, ask the maitre d what are the best dishes, watch what other people are being served. And don't worry so much about whether it's authentic as whether it's good.

Fairfax, VA: A couple of weeks ago I went with four other women to “The Vigorelli” for an early diner before the 7:00 show of Rear Window at the Uptown. I had called early to see if reservations were required and was assured they would not be. After we arrived, at around 6:00, we were seated behind a large column. The waiter took our order and we mentioned the 7:00 show we wanted to make. He acknowledged the statement but did not comment on whether we would have our food in time. He served our wine and then abandoned us. No bread was served, no water, a request for more coffee was ignored. At 6:45 a member of our party left the table and found the restaurant manager after trying futilely to get the attention of our waiter. She explained our situation and after checking with the kitchen -if you can call it that- the manager told her that our food was up now. Did we want it or not? No apology. We then spent 10 min. eating our food. The waiter who had been absent since serving our wine came over to remove our plates before we were all finished. No apology. And to top it all off the food was mediocre.

Is there anywhere within walking distance of the Uptown to get a good meal? The last time my husband and I went with another couple we had excellent food at Greenwoods but were treated rudely by the chef -She told us we weren’t dressed up to par with the unpublished dress code, but since we had reservations and the dress code wasn’t published she would let us in this time.- The staff more than made up for the initial rude behavior and made sure we made our 7:00 at the Uptown.

Phyllis Richman: What's happening to neighborhood restaurants? I hope you'll stick around to see what goes into the Greenwood space.

Tel Aviv, Israel: Can you recommend of a good Malaysian restaurant in Washington?

Phyllis Richman: Coming all the way from Tel Aviv to eat Malaysian food here? There's the Malaysian Satay House in Wheaton, and now another branch at 1827 M ST. NW. It's too new for me to have tried it yet.

Bethesda, MD: Le Steak had the best steak, sauce and fries in town. We heard that she opened elsewhere. Do you have any info?

Phyllis Richman: People keep asking, but I haven't heard about it reopening. It's been quite a few years, after all.

Washington, DC: As for the bad meal in Cleveland Park...why don't you try Ardeo next time?

Phyllis Richman: Why not.

takoma park md: Have you ever been to Sergio, a neighbiorhood Italian restaurant tucked in hotel in downtown silver spring? I think it's a real find because of the decent food, decent prices and friendly atmosphere

Phyllis Richman: It's been there for decades, just quietly doing a solid good job .

SS, MD: Phyllis:

In re: Reeves... I work one block -12th & G- from Reeves -12th & F- and it's still open and does a ROCKING lunch biz. Not to mention that the bakery seems to be doing well also. It's not open 24 hrs. anymore, though.

I'll miss your reviews and this chat. Good luck!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. Glad to know it's well, in addition t o being alive.

Vienna, Va: I am thrilled to hear that you've decided to continue the discussion. Will think of suggestions and send them next week.

Phyllis Richman: Thank you.

But not next week, the week after. Next week I'll be in Providence for the IACP convention. Eating grilled pizza at
Al Forno, too. We'll skip this discussion next week and pick up again the week after.

Bethesda, MD: If Matisse has improved, that is insufficient. It needed a lot of work to provide value for the high prices.

Phyllis Richman: It seems to be plenty busy anyway.