By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman comes to Live Online at washingtonpost.com every Thursday at noon. In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants - from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery - Phyllis has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Phyllis is on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday - only on the Web.

Want to know what's new and notable on the restaurant scene? Turn to Phyllis. Got a bone to pick with the most recent review? Let Phyllis know.

Below is today's transcript.

Somewhere, USA: Hi Phyllis. I know you're a big shad fan... if you haven't already, check out this week's New Yorker magazine. John McPhee has a piece in it about shad. (Of course, you may prefer eating it to reading about it.) I'd give you a link, but the New Yorker is very low-tech.

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon and welcome to one more sunny Thursday chat line.

Shad season is just about over, but I have McPhee's article in my stack of magazines ready to enjoy when the fish itself is gone.

A moment to answer an unasked question: I was in Providence last week for a food convention, and whew, did I dine well! I'd never been to Al Forno before, and figured it was probably a very good restaurant. . .for Providence. I discovered that it is a very good restaurant for anywhere. Exceptional, wonderful, thrilling. I went back the next night. Pastas that floated, sauces to dream about, and desserts that are made to order and unforgettable (the coconut-ricotta tart and eyelash-curlingly-tart lemon meringue pie are all-time greats).

Another great restaurant over t he line in S. Westerly, Mass.: Chris Schlesinger--or Cambridge's East Coast Grill--has opened an adorable gray-shingle waterfront place with simple and superb seafood. Scallops caught 20 miles away. Ideal clams. Outstanding. . .everything. And a lovely waterfront porch and dock.

Back towards Providence, in Cranston, is a terrific down-home family-style red-sauce Italian restaurant called Mike's, in the VFW hall. Cheap, friendly, and with one of the world's great marinara sauces. Try it over the polenta.

And now, back to Washington.

Capitol Hill: Hi Phillis! I notice in today's Washington Post that a restaurant from your Dining Guide has been written up for health code violations. I generally avoid a restaurant that has been cited with violations like rodent infestation and unsanitary food surfaces, which were among those leveled against this particular restaurant. I probably wouldn't care about whether no manager was found on duty. What's your philosophy on all this?

Phyllis Richman: I saw that two prominent restaurants were closed and then reopened the next day. My first reaction is horror and disgust and a vow that I'll never eat there. On second though, I realize that sometimes these things aren't what they seem. I've heard complaints from reliable sources that sometimes inspectors overreact or have a bone to pick--don't know if it's true. But I think it's possible, particularly when I see that a restaurant with such a long list of infractions (is it a standard list or one that's reflecting the particular restaurant's problems?) opens again the next day. Those are a lot of serious things to correct in 24 hours.

In sum, I'd take it with a grain of salt, and figure that if the inspectors let the restaurant reopen, they're declaring it clean and safe.

Wash./Bethesda: Dear Phyllis,

I promise I will go sit in the sun to eat lunch today, but first... You said a few weeks back that there was a new restaurant--"Greenwood"?--in the works that you thought would be up on Connecticut in the block before Nebraska, perhaps going into the space of one of those Asian restaurants there. However, all three -Thai, Indian, and Chinese- seem to be hanging in there to a greater or lesser degree. Any more info?

Phyllis Richman: It is supposedly going to take the place of the Peacock.

In the meantime, I hear rumors of a really exciting restaurant taking the place of Greenwood in Cleveland Park. I'll let you know as soon as the news is available for public consumption.

Oakton: Phyllis,

Just wanted to let you know I tried Shad Roe for the first time Friday night at 1789 and it was fantastic. I probably wouldn't have ordered it without reading about it here online. I do have a question for you. Recently my girlfriend and I ordered entree Caesar salads at a local restaurant. The Caesar dressing used had a very strong mustard flavor that overwhelmed a very nice looking salad. My question is is it okay to send the salads back because we don't like the dressing?

Phyllis Richman: Why not? If it's not a Caesar, that's their problem, not yours.

I'm glad to have converted another shad roe fan.

Bellevue, WA: Hi Phyllis,

I love your books and your chat, which is really saying something since I live on the west coast and don't often get to enjoy the restaurants being discussed.

I'll be in DC at the end of April-beginning of May and wondered if I'll be able to do any outdoor dining. (What's the weather like then?) If so, where would you suggest I go for delicious food, a lovely view and-or good people watching, and a chance to soak up beautiful weather?

Thanks and congratulations on your impending retirement!

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. It's nice to have participants from other Washingtons.

April and May are prime dining outdoors around here. Washington--DC--diners have long loved the hidden gardens of Tabard Inn and Iron Gate. Now we have the rooftop Lauriol Plaza. And many major restaurants are adding outdoor tables: Galileo has a garden, Marcel's is putting tables on the sidewalk. Many, many more. You can probably find a list on this website (there was a list in my last dining book, which is on this site).

Downtown DC: Interesting to hear about Al Forno. Do you remember that Patricia Wells several years ago rated it the top "casual" restaurant IN THE WORLD? Look forward to the day I can go.
Is your "for Providence" qualification before you went based on experience with that city?

Phyllis Richman: I hadn't been to Providence for decades, but didn't expect such a great restaurant in a smallish city. I loved the city, too.

There is no single top casual restaurant in the world, but Al Forno (probably too expensive to be called casual) is up among whatever contenders there are.

Dupont Circle: Why be coy about what restaurants were closed for health violations? I like this chat because it's candid and names names.

Phyllis Richman: Sorry. One was El Catalan, but I forgot the other, so didn't want to be uneven-handed. Anybody want to remind me of the other?

Bethesda, MD: We checked out Terrazza recently. Not much interesting other than the osso bucco. However, the accompanying lemon risotto had obviously been made with bottled lemonade.

Phyllis Richman: Aw, c'mon.

Eastern Market, DC: Hello Phyllis:
What IS it with Risotto these days? Can't go near a food article without some mention of it. Famed chefs battling over how it's prepared.
I mean, it's Rice, right? What's the big deal and why the sudden Huge popularity?

Phyllis Richman: Yeah, just foie gras is liver and angel hair pasta is flour. Risotto is (or should be) a particular short-grain fat rice that absorbs a lot of liquid and turns creamy if properly cooked. That means simmered slowly, uncovered, and the broth added bit by bit as it is absorbed. The result is (should be) a creamy texture with a bit of firmness to each grain, and each thoroughly infused with flavor. Try proper risotto (most likely at a very good Italian restaurant) and you'll not ask again.

Lincoln NE: Dear Phyllis,

I'm going to be in the DC area in a few months, and am wondering about the use of organic ingredients in restaurants there. Are there any establishments that use locally produced organic ingredients? I understand that DC has a fairly nice farmer's market on weekends--do any restaurants us the market to try to find the freshest produce available?

Phyllis Richman: Just check out the Sunday morning market at Dupont Circle (starting the 16th) and see how many chefs show up. Many chefs buy organic produce there and elsewhere.

Fort Belvoir, VA: When will the new restaurant of the former chef from The Morrison Clark Restaurant open in Alexandria? I believe it is to be locate on King Street.

Phyllis Richman: It's called the Majestic, the chef will be Susan Lindeborg, and it should be open around Sept.

Washington, DC: Have you ever reviewed a rest. called Sahib in Olney, MD? We have been there once and are going back this weekend. It is much like Marrakesh but much smaller and I think better. You can sit with your party of two or four and still see the great show. Only about 10 tables in the whole place. If you haven't been there I recommend it just for your enjoyment.

Phyllis Richman: Sounds interesting. I hadn't heard of it.

Rockville, MD: Ms. Richman,

A few chats back you were talking about a tiny bird that is drowned in red wine, cooked (deep fried maybe) and eaten in all one bite. What was the name of that and is there anywhere in this area that would serve it, I would love to try it.

Phyllis Richman: Ortolans. But you'll have to simply imagine them. They're illegal.

Silver Spring,MD: Thanks so much for the reminder back in March of Oriental East and their dim sum. Yesterday, I tried it for the first time and am hooked but next time I'll try it on a weekend or holiday. Where though in downtown DC, maybe Chinatown area, do they do a good dim sum at lunchtime? TIA

Phyllis Richman: Several Chinatown restaurants do dim sum. Tony Cheng's Seafood, Mr. Yung's (I think), another on the north side of H between 6th and 7th, and that small one on the east side of 7th between H and I. Perhaps others, too.

Springfield, VA : Dear Phyllis,
Some might think it's a little early to ask this question, but I eat ice cream year-round and want to get this question in before you retire. Anyway, where do you like to go for good ice cream in the DC-Virginia suburbs area? Also, what do you think of the chain ice cream parlors that mix your ice cream with the toppings? Are they worth my time and money?

Phyllis Richman: We have several good ice cream shops and chains. I like Thomas Sweets and Gifford's, I hear good reports of Lazy Sundae (in Arl.) and York (in Silver Spring).

Wash DC: When, oh WHEN will we get to see what you look like?!?!? I'll just bet you're as cute as a button!

Phyllis Richman: If that's what you're expecting, I think I should stay hidden. But the Post magazine is going to show my face in my last column - the first Sunday after Memorial Day, I think. And the CBS morning show has asked me to be on in early May and would unmask me.

Cute? Probably not. But not as bad is I look in my disguises, I hope.

Washington, DC: If you were a really good, really authentic Philly cheesesteak, where would I be able to find you? I miss them.

Love the chat. I'll miss you, too, when you're retired. Possibly even more than the cheesesteaks.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks very much, but I can't imagine missing a restaurant critic more than a cheesesteak.

Phila. Mike's had the best, but I've heard they may not be what they were. The Phila Cheesesteak place in Georgetown ( M ST. west of Wisc.) is pretty good, as is George's in Georgetown.

Anyone else have some suggestions?

Capitol Hill: Should a restaurant's prices reflect not only the food, but the atmosphere? I recently ate at Pesce, and while the fish was fantastic (albeit tiny portions), I felt odd paying $20 an entree when the atmosphere was so casual.

Same with the Rhodeside Grill in Arlington where the $17-$20 entrees seem out of place since the smokey, noisy bar is right in the middle of the dining room.

What do you think?

Phyllis Richman: I think you have to consider that really good seafood costs a premium price no matter where it's served. That $20 Pesce seafood dish might cost $30 at a fancier restaurant.

Washington , DC: This is the worst service experience I ever had. At Miss Saigon in Georgetown two friends and I ordered an appetizer platter, which looked like a good value on the menu, promising two of several items that we knew we liked. When it arrived there were lots of shriveled wonton things, and only one of each item we wanted. First the waiter told us that's what the menu said. When we showed the manager the menu, he pointed to a knife indentation in the rolls and insisted that "two" on the menu meant "two halves." (They could have as easily promised four on the menu that way.) Then he said, "If you don't like it, go eat at Macdonald's." After we stomped out he called to us down M Street that we still owed him for a ginger ale one person had ordered.

Phyllis Richman: Miss Saigon used to be known for its gracious service. Too bad.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis --

I recently ate at Makoto on MacArthur Blvd. for a special occasion. This must be the best kept secret in DC! Easily the most amazing sushi I've ever eaten and the place was just so darn cute! I know it's been written up ... but how is the place kept so secret?

Phyllis Richman: I guess I'm not doing my job. I've picked it as one of my 50 favorites every year since it's been open.

Washington, D.C.: This isn't quite a restaurant question, but you brought it up about farmers' markets. Why do so many of them, including Dupont Circle's start only in June? I went all over town last Memorial Day looking for Eastern Shore strawberries.

Phyllis Richman: No, no. Dupont Circle is opening Apr. 16. And closing in Dec.

Cleveland Park: What do you think about papers and magazines that list "readers' favorites?" A friend of mine used to live in Pittsburgh with the owner of a restaurant. The owner bought hundreds of copies of the local lifestyle magazine, sent in votes for his restaurant, and got on the list every time.
I sometime wonder also when the same restaurants get repeated raves in this chat whether they are really coming from disinterested diners. I guess that's the price of an open discussion like this.

Phyllis Richman: I try to monitor that (and often you can tell when there's a campaign by the restaurant) but some must slip through, just as a restaurant's competitors might try to badmouth one. Yes, take all this with another grain of salt.

Leesburg, VA: Hi Phyllis,

Love the chats and will miss the reviews. I have two quick questions. A friend of mine is craving Ethiopian food. I am unfamiliar with Ethiopian food, but am willing to give it a try. Any suggestions on restaurants? Also, I noticed that you mentioned the Iron Gate Inn and the attractive garden. I agree that it is a lovely place, but has the food improved? Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: There are many interesting Ethiopian restaurants. Consider Entotto, Addis Ababa, Demera, Fasika.

And no, the Iron Gate's food has probably not improved. But for a spring lunch I'm willing to overlook that and order something simple.

Alexandria, VA: Have you ever reviewed the Calvert Grill on Mount Vernon Avenue in Alexandria? My husband and I ate dinner there for the first time recently, and despite its rather unlikely location, its food is actually pretty good and very reasonable. The spinach-artichoke dip, served with crispy garlic toast, is particularly yummy.

Phyllis Richman: It's a very nice homey restaurant.

Rosslyn, VA: Thank you for the Pho 75 recommendation. Just got back from lunch and it was great!!!! Excellent choice!

Hint for readers: go before 12 pm to avoid the HUGE line.

Phyllis Richman: Yes, like go for breakfast.

Washington, DC: Hi, Phyllis. I'm a (very) long-time fan and will miss you.

Recently, at my recommendation, a friend ate at Cashion's Eat Place. While he liked the food, he was shocked not to find a red wine under $45 on the winelist. What can be done about this kind of gouging on wine lists?

Phyllis Richman: Ann Cashion, are you listening? We'll give you space here next week if you'd like to respond.

Arlington, VA: RE: Cheesesteak. What about Al's on Mt. Vernon Avenue in Alexandria?? Awesome cheesesteak!!

Phyllis Richman: So I've heard.

Rockville, MD: re: cheesesteak

I believe the post did an article a few years ago about a Philly couple who started a deli that serves cheesesteaks. Writer thought the c.s. were excellent. I think they serve them Pat's/Genos style (sliced steak) rather than the Jim's style (chopped up).

They are at 3672 or 7236 St. Barnabas Road (Oxon Hill ? Suitland ?). Haven't been there myself.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks.

Dupont Circle: Re: ice cream, please don't forget about Sweet Licks on 17 & R. it's wonderful! Fresh & interesting flavors & nice owners, & dog friendly, to boot! (no, I don't work there, but I go in for pints at least once a week.)

Phyllis Richman: I'll run right over.

Mark at Citronelle: Hi Phyllis! Re:Ortolans, they are drowned in Armagnac. Having worked with Jean-Louis for so long, I know this all too well. They are not only illegal, they are VERY ILLEGAL.

Phyllis Richman: Right. Of course, armagnac. Thanks for the correction.

Washington, DC: For the cheesesteak hunter: I concur with your suggestion of George's in Georgetown (28th street, just north of M), but my new job is too far from George's for lunch hour, and I've found another option that I might even like better--Sardis, on 19th between L & M. They make the best cheesesteak I've had since _I_ was making them during my college years. (By the way--this Sardis is nothing like the famous one!)

Phyllis Richman: Isn't that the place with the bargain-priced Indian buffet at lunch? And pool tables?

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis--

I missed you last week! I hope the IACP meetings were splendid. I have more of a meandering comment this week than a question. In my recent dining experiences I have had a number of disappointments, mainly with service that has been confused, understaffed, and SLOW. The Bluestone's waiter seemed hopelessly dim, and the paella's seafood was dry and undistinguished. Thyme Square has been a service nightmare on my last few visits (including a waitress who overdosed in applying her "scent" that morning), and Mar de Plata was plagued my too many no-shows in the kitchen.

But in all of these there have been pleasant surprises as well--the Bluestone's cordial accommodation of a 6-month old baby, the bargain early bird special, and the fresh berry dessert substitutions for a nursing mother. Mar de Plata's food was wonderful, and the overworked waitress was a charmer. And I have been especially pleased with the surprisingly good food and eager service at Sheridan's, a new steakhouse near Eastern Market. Their Sunday night homecooking (meatloaf and shepherd's pie) has been a comfort food delight.

I guess it all goes to show that there dining in DC is a grab bag experience, but that one can take some joy when the small triumphs stand out against the failures.

Phyllis Richman: I've been thinking of taking a deck of cards to dinner. Service problems are epidemic in Washington. Thanks for your balanced report.

Silver Spring, MD: About Ethiopian food. I love Zed's in Georgetown and Red Sea in Adams Morgan. Probably the best Ethiopian food in the city.

Congratulations on your retirement...we will miss you!

Phyllis Richman: I've found Zed's food too pricey for its quality but it is perfectly decent Ethiopian cooking.

Thanks for your kind words.

Germantown, MD: OK, Phyllis, I'll bite -

Why are Ortolans VERY illegal?
Imports? Protected species?
Are they legal outside the US?

Curiosity killed the cat - uh, bird.

Phyllis Richman: They're native to France and, I think, are a protected species.

Federal Triangle, DC: The Iron gate has an excellent wine list, and the service is excellent. The herb chicken is top notch. Perhaps some of the other entrees leave a little to be desired, but I have been to much worse in this town. Also, it is the premier date place from spring through the fall.

Phyllis Richman: Love may be blind, but nobody says it impairs the taste buds. Thanks.

Washington DC: RE: cheesteaks. City Subs on 8th Street SE near the Marine Barracks does a pretty decent cheesesteak. I'm more inclined to go further down Pennsylvania to Mangialardo's for a G-Man sub: ham, provo, genoa salami. Wonderful lunch fare.

Phyllis Richman: Good ideas!

Wash., DC: Phyllis,

I've submitted this question several times in the past, and it's never made the cut. I understand that you can't always answer each question. But we're running out of time here! What are your recommendations for Easter brunch? I know I'm going to have to make reservations soon!

thanks

Phyllis Richman: This website did a good list of brunch places recently; that should help.

Arlington, VA: Hi Phyllis,
I visited a Bolivian restaurant last week after it was mentioned in the Washingtonpost entertainment section and I loved the food. How come this countries food is never mentioned as a category in dining guides. (like Peruvian or Brazilian)?

Phyllis Richman: Probably because there is only one, and maybe it's new.

ARLINGTON, VA: I understand Village Bistro and Bistro Bistro under the same ownership these days. I have enjoyed tremendously several meals at Village Bistro the past couple of weeks, while a recent meal at Bistro Bistro was mediocre..Whats the deal?

Phyllis Richman: Perhaps it needs more time to get up to speed. Do you mean the Shirlington Bistro Bistro?

Washington, DC: I recently went to Eden Center, which I'd long wanted to do, with the help of the Post Food Section's map and guide. I just had a lovely bowl of noodles and the tofu pudding with ginger. But it seems that most of those places ought to rank as the top Vietnamese restaurants in town. Your list of 50 each year hasn't included any. Is it because of the total amenities experience of the others with a larger Western clientele, or do you even consider the places out there?

Phyllis Richman: There are so many that I haven't been to nearly all, but I have reviewed a few, and sometimes they've hit my list.

New York, NY: Hi Phyllis:

For best cheese steak in Washington may I suggest the famous "Steak Special" at Booeymonger's? Not exactly Philly style but nevertheless irresistible.

Phyllis Richman: I'm a big fan of Booeymonger's sandwiches, even though I'd wish for better bread.

DC: On slow service and your occasional need for a deck of cards: Once outdoors at the now-defunct and very laid-back Kalorama Cafe we waited so long for the waitress to come out and take a desert order that my companion walked up to Columbia Road and brought back two pastries that the waitress didn't notice us eating when she finally showed up.

Phyllis Richman: I was once at a banquet with a buffet that ran out, so my table called for a pizza delivery. Everyone else was envious.

Strong measures are sometimes required.

Alexandria, VA: For ice cream try the Scoop Grill on King Street in Old Town. Their Jack Daniel's ice cream is sublime.

Phyllis Richman: Sounds good.

DC: I read an interesting article about sorrel in the NY Times a few weeks ago. I was wondering if any area restaurants are using it? Do any area super markets carry it? I stopped by Freshfields, but they didn't have any.

Phyllis Richman: I seldom see it on menus, only rarely as a sauce for salmon in a French restaurant. It is very easy to grow.

Falls Church, Virginia: RE: Bolivian food
Actually Phyllis I'm married to a Bolivian lady and we visit many different Bolivian restaurants in the DC area. There are over 100,000 Bolivians in the area you know.

Phyllis Richman: Oops. How about sending us a list of the best.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis,

RE: The Bluestone Cafe in Eastern Market, I've found it to be generally good, but I do wish they'd expand their brunch menu a bit more.

Speaking of new Eastern Market additions, I had a fabulous sandwich at Stompin' Grounds on Saturday. I think they may be more of a coffee shop type place than a restaurant, but their egg salad -with just the right amount of dill- is amazing.

Phyllis Richman: Always eager to hear about a new place on Capitol Hill.

Washington, DC: Phyllis--

You asked if Sardis is the place with the bargain-priced Indian buffet at lunch...I think you're thinking of Odds, which is one block over, on 20th between L & M. Sardis is on 19th--they also do fried chicken and fish, which are apparently well-liked, since there's usually a crowd for them. As for me, I've never managed to try anything beyond the cheesesteak. -Well, except for the chicken philly!-

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for clarifying this.

DC: For the Nebraskan: Both Cafe Nora & Asia Nora use organic ingredients. And if you check out the (wonderful) Washington Green Grocer, they talk about local co-ops, etc. www.washingtonsgreengrocer.com , I think.

Phyllis Richman: A lot of the best area restaurants use organic ingredients because they are local and fresh and good.

Cleveland Park, DC: I have also submitted this question several times. Where in DC can I get a traditional Easter Dinner -not brunch.- It seems DC is awash with excellent ethnic foods. Any ideas on where I can get my family the traditional baked ham or lamb?

Phyllis Richman: Hotel restaurants are good bets for holiday meals, and Greek restaurants will certainly have lamb dishes.

Vienna, VA: Hi Phyllis,

You mentioned a dimsum desert in your piece about Oriental East. It was white and silky in ginger syrup. Did you know that it is tofu, from the soybean? Which is supposed to be very good for you. I had it this past weekend. Yumm!

Phyllis Richman: Yes, it was indeed soft tofu. I'm embarrassed to say that I erred in referring to it as almond gelatin. It's wonderful soft velvety stuff, even lighter than custard.

washington dc: I will miss your reviews and wish you the best of luck in the future. I sure can use your expertise though with this problem.

I do not have any problems determining the tip for restaurant service, although I prefer the European model. But I have a problem with the newer formats: the tip jar at the coffee house counter or yogurt place; the counter of the sandwich take out (or is it different if you eat the sandwich at one of the little tables?); order at the counter but the food is brought to your table. Are there any guidelines for these non-traditional services?

Phyllis Richman: These tip jars are far more prevalent than they were, and you're not required to tip really. I often put in the loose change I get back. As for table service, I'd leave a little - 10 percent or less - when someone delivers food I've ordered at a counter. I don't think any real rules have evolved yet.

Thanks to all of you for your lovely wishes, not to mention for your interesting questions and information. I'm going to make a list of cheesesteak places and ice cream parlors: what a great week is coming up!

See you hear next week.