By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman comes to Live Online at washingtonpost.com every Thursday at noon. In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants - from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery - Phyllis has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Phyllis is on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday - only on the Web.

Want to know what's new and notable on the restaurant scene? Turn to Phyllis. Got a bone to pick with the most recent review? Let Phyllis know.

Below is today's transcript.

Washington, DC: Oh great and wise Phyllis...

Has something (ownership?) changed at Japan Inn in Georgetown? Used to be a favorite of mine for tableside cooking, and yet I went there a few weeks ago and had a dreadful time-- they've changed their menu (down to the salad dressing!) and the chefs (who used to be so active and engaging) all seemed sullen and robotic. No flipping of shrimp into their hats-- that's for sure. Even the quality of the meats (I had chicken and filet mignon teriyaki) has gone downhill...the chicken was all dark meat (or looked that way) instead of breast... Any ideas what might have happened? Or where I should take my table-side business instead?

Thank you!

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, and welcome back to the non-lunch bunch.

Before I answer this question, I want to tell you all that this chat line's time will be up in two weeks. You can all start going out to lunch on Thursdays (and so can I). I'm retiring from reviewing restaurants; I'll write my last column the first week in May, so it will appear in the magazine the first Sunday in June. I hope my successor--yet unchosen--will be ready to pick up the column the next week. As for the chat, since I'll be away in early May, I will do the last one on Thurs., Apr. 27.

So send me those questions you've been holding back.

As for the above question, I don't know this specific answer, but it highlights a problem with restaurant reviewing (and dining): Restaurants change, and we are not warned or even informed necessarily. We have to find out with our tastebuds and eyes and instincts. It's not like theater, where cast changes are announced.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,

A few months back you answered a question to someone inquiring about the old owner of City Lights opening a new restaurant in downtown/Georgetown. Do you have any new news about this? Dates, locations?

Also, do you have a favorite spot downtown for fajitas? I'm looking for reasonable price, flavorful, ample portions and chunky spicy salsa and fresh guac. I find Loriol plaza just ok and unless I'm there for sangria, just not worth the wait. Roxanne's/Peote Cafe isn't what it used to be. Someone recently recommended Alero on Conn. Ave. Any thoughts?

Thanks

Phyllis Richman: The original owner of City Lights has opened Meiwah at New Hampshire and M. My review will come out in a few weeks.

As for fajitas, I'm a fan of Rio Grande Cafes, but I'll take other nominations from all of you.

Washington, D.C. : Hi Phyllis. I love reading your reviews - keep up the good work!

My question has to do with the best way to handle bad experiences in nice restaurants. D.C. Coast is one of my favorite restaurants in town; after dining there nearly a dozen times, I had always received excellent service and had excellent meals and wine. The staff was always extremely friendly and professional.

However, about three weeks ago, I had a positively awful experience there. It began with the reservations staff treating me quite rudely when I called asking to add an additional person to my party. It continued at the bar as we waited for our table - a gentleman (I use this term loosely) came in and attempted to take my seat at the bar as I was removing my coat to sit on it, and provoked an argument with my date when he asked me to move out of his way so he could have the seat. The gentleman, after causing a bit of a scene, called the bartender over (by name) and asked him which of us was there first. To my utter surprise, the bartender, who had been on the other side of the bar with his back to us the entire time, smiled and said, "Oh yes, Mr. so-and-so, I am certain you were here first," and asked me to move! I refused, and finally the gentleman and his party moved to a different place at the bar (they left shortly thereafter - they were not even there for dinner!) A few minutes later, upon overhearing us discussing our reservation, the bartender approached me and said sarcastically, "You mean you're waiting for a table? Gee, this was all really worth it then, wasn't it?" I was shocked! I informed him that we had an hour before our table would ready, and then went to complain to a manager. The manager seemed completely unconcerned and, without apologizing, she merely offered to seat us at the next available table. I told her that my problem was not with waiting for my scheduled reservation, but with the poor attitude of the staff as I was waiting. She continued to offer to seat us promptly, missing the point completely, in my opinion.

Do you think this situation could have been handled differently? I did not feel like my concerns were addressed, but I dropped it because I did not want to make an already upsetting and embarrassing situation even worse. What could I have reasonably expected the manager to do or say? Should I have demanded something? Or figured they were just having a bad night and not even mentioned it at all? Please advise - I hope nothing like this ever happens again, but I fear that "restaurant rage" is going to be the new "road rage"!

Phyllis Richman: It's hard to know what goes into such a scene. Maybe the other guy was a very big tipper or the most regular customer, or even an investor. Still, the bartender should not play favorites and the hosts should listen carefully to complaints. Not so, in this imperfect world. I think you did what you could; sometimes we have to choose between justice and practicality.

Washington, D.C. : Any suggestions for a pre-theater dinner around the Warner Theater? I am heading there on a Thursday in the beginning of May to see Stomp. Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: El Catalan is not far, and I've heard some good reports of it lately.

Bethesda: For grilled meat, real tortillas, fresh guac--Mixtec! Don't know if it's technically fajitas, though (I'm not such a big fan of the grilled pepper & onion thing).

Phyllis Richman: It's been awhile, but good old Mixtec has always served satisfying simple Mex food.

Washington DC: Can you recommend a list of late night restaurants in DC or Bethesda (kitchen open until 11:00PM)?

Phyllis Richman: I have such a list in my dining book, which is on this site, so you should be able to track it down here.

Washington, DC: Tonight I will be going to see Liza at the Kennedy Center and will have dinner beforehand at the West End Cafe, I have to admit I mostly go because I love the hostess of that restaurant. The food is okay, but for a while there was discussion of the restaurant as well as the hotel receiving a major renovation now that it is no longer owned by the Cafritzes but rather Starwood. Do you know of any plans for that space, it really can be a fun place to dine.

Phyllis Richman: I'd expect it's time for a renovation. West End Cafe has long been - not a star, but a good supporting actor. Attractive and pleasant, with fresh and appealing food.

Falls Church, VA: For fajita-searcher:
Try El Ranchero in Ballston (on Wilson Blvd. headed toward 7-Corners). It's a genuine, homey Mexican restaurant.

For Phyllis Richman:
I will so much miss these chats and all their insights into the local dining scene. However, now we can start checking out all the places we've been racking up from your suggestions. Best wishes and happy dining to you!

Phyllis Richman: Thank you, thank you and thank you

DC: Among your reviews, I have not seen one for the restaurant at L'Auberge Provencale in White Post. Why not? Haven't been there? Too far out? Not worth mentioning? I was wondering how it compares to other French restaurants (and even restaurants in general) around here. A reply would be most appreciated.

Phyllis Richman: I was there a couple years back, and I like it. But I liked it more when it was less fancy and expensive. It was excellent as a homey country French restaurant. It is less successful, in my view, as an Inn at Little Washington wanna be.

Fairfax, Va.: I have always been tempted to try the much talked about Jaleo. Is it better to go there with a group of people, rather than as a couple, because of the tapas menu? I am just concerned that we wouldn't be able to try as many of the options and that it wouldn't be filling enough for us. Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: I like going with enough people that I can try plenty of dishes but not so many that it would be hard to share the tapas--which are, after all, small plates.

As for filling up, all you have to do is order more tapas. My problem is the opposite: I want to try so many of the choices that I wind up with too much food.

Washington: Dear Ms. Richman,

Have you ever been to Mrs. K's Tollhouse in Silver Spring? I was there recently and was SO impressed. It looks like a little kitch-y place (although the gardens are spectacular), but the food is truly a lovely surprise.

I had pan seared halibut with perfect haricots verts and red potatoes. My date had "mediterranean salad", which was a huge, lovely mesclun salad with feta, greek olives, red onions and balsamic vinaigrette. she asked for smoked salmon instead of grilled chicken and even though it wasn't on the menu, she got it! you get a first course, salad, main course and dessert all for a reasonable price and the service is lovely.

anyway, just thought I'd give people a heads up about a sweet little place just outside DC.

Phyllis Richman: It sounds like a very different kitchen from the one that fed me at Mrs.K's Toll House in years past.

Silver Spring: Dear Phyllis,

My wife and I are going to the lower Eastern Shore for our anniversary. We would like to find a couple of nice restaurants in which to celebrate. Somewhere I read that the Atlantic Hotel in Berlin is very good. Have you ever eaten there, and if so what do you think? Any other suggestions for that part of the country? Thanks a bunch and have a great retirement.

Phyllis Richman: Sadly, the Atlantic Hotel changed hands, and was no thrill when I was last there (admittedly several years ago). I've heard positive reports of DeFibo's in Bethany, and there are a lot of good restaurants in Rehoboth.

ft. belvoir, VA: What information can you share about Potomac Landing, i.e. location, atmosphere, food, dinner, etc...
thanks!!

Phyllis Richman: I like just picnicking on the grass there. The restaurant doesn't' tempt me but the site does.

Washington, DC: Whatever happened to the delicious and cheap Chinese Restaurant Eat First? What asian restaurants do you recommend in Chinatown?

Phyllis Richman: Chinatown is a great disappointment these days. Full Kee is about the most reliably good restaurant there. Otherwise, they are just fair. Except the Burma and the Vietnamese deli carryout downstairs from it.

Alexandria: Any breaking news on the chef situation at Pesce? I miss Jamie Stawkowski! Does anyone know where he went?

Phyllis Richman: Jamie Stachowski is opening a restaurant around Tysons Corner eventually. I'm waiting to hear about a new chef at Pesce.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis. I was wondering if you've had a chance to try the new Malaysian place on 18th and M, Malaysian Kopitiam. I took some friends from out of town there this past weekend, and we all liked it a lot -- especially for the price. Will you be reviewing the place soon? A sneak preview of your thoughts?

I also wanted to agree with the earlier questioner about Lauriol Plaza. It's an amazing looking restaurant, but I think the food is only mediocre, and not necessarily worth the wait. I think there are several no-frills Mexican and Salvadoran places in Adams-Morgan and Mt. Pleasant where the food's just as good, if not better. Mixtec. El Tamarindo. Las Placitas. Your thoughts?

Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: I've tried the Malaysian restaurant and am not quite ready to review it yet, but I can say that just leafing through the book of photos of its dishes is worth the trip. Large and fascinating menu.

As for the big, glitzy Lauriol Plaza vs. the other bare-bones Mex and Central American restaurants nearby, they are obviously very different experiences. Probably one has the best this and another has the best that (none beats Lauriol's chips and salsa), but no one is a standout. People in this case probably choose more by atmosphere than by the cooking.

Alexandria/Kingstowne, VA: Hello, Phyllis! Just curious... I know you review restaurants (and I LOVE your writing!), but do you have any thoughts on supermarkets which feature "in-house" chefs and kitchens? Giant Food near my home has a large amount of "ready to heat" items - and I was just curious if you have ever tried any of these? It's getting to the point where you don't have to cook anymore, since the supermarkets make it so easy and convenient. (I'm betting Sutton Place has pretty great pre-done food, but it's not a place I normally shop.)

PS- Best of luck on your retirement. The new critic has a very high standard to uphold!

Phyllis Richman: I'm generally disappointed by supermarket prepared foods--including Sutton Place Gourmet's. I'd rather get prepared food from a restaurant or carryout I know and like.

Arlington, Virginia: Is Baked Alaska extinct? If not, where would you hope to find it in Washington? My 8 year old daughter yearns to taste her Dad's favorite desert of yesteryear.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't seen it lately. Have any of you?

It is, however, easy to make at home. A layer of cake, a layer of hard-frozen ice cream and a thick, thick layer of meringue in a hot oven (or freeze the cake and ice cream together to be sure they are really frozen). That's it.

Washington DC: Hi Phyllis --

Just wondering if you saw an article in the latest New Yorker. And if you did, what you think of it. It's an article by a chef at Les Halles in New York - he chronicles a day in his life as a chef there.

It's really well-written and fun -and exhausting to read.

Phyllis Richman: I have it on my desk to read. He's written some pretty appalling scenes from restaurants before.

Riverdale, MD: Dear Phyllis:

So sorry to hear you're retiring. We'll miss you. Will you be writing more of your delightful mysteries?

When ordering a wine (red/white, Merlot/Chablis) by the glass in a restaurant and there is a variety available, shouldn't the wine stewart/waiter present the wine list for the customer to choose from, instead of just bringing the most expensive one? Or, is this just one of those practices most restaurants engage in, and which diners must be aware of and always request to see the wine list?

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. I'll miss the chat line, too. As for my mysteries, I'm sending the newest to the publisher tomorrow, and it should be out next spring ("Who's Afraid of Virginia Ham?); my previous one, "Murder on the Gravy Train", will be in paperback in the next couple of months. And I'm ready to start on the next one. You can see why I'm ready to retire from daily journalism.

Enough self-promotion. On to wine.

Not all waiters are competent or thoughtful or as interested in the diner's welfare as in their tips. Then again, many are intensely eager to help you to dine well. So if you're ordering a glass of wine and the waiter doesn't volunteer enough information, ask what's available (and the prices ) and ask if there is a printed list. Just because your waiter isn't forthcoming doesn't mean you have to dine--and drink--in ignorance.

Washington, DC: If you had to eat at one restaurant once a week on the same day everytime, which would it be - humour us!

Phyllis Richman: Yum.

At home.

Okay, okay: Pick from dozens, including Obelisk, Pesce, Johnny's Half Shell, Kinkead's, Etrusco, Galileo (if someone else was paying), Bacchus, CF Folks, Pan Asian Noodles, Bread Line, Oodles Noodles, Sala Thai, Melrose. . .for a start. Why these and not the other dozens of restaurants I love? Easy: they're a short walk from my house.

Rockville, MD: This is the second week that I'm on your live chat and it's just my luck that you will be leaving soon because I've really enjoyed this. Anyway...I was the one who commented on Bolivian restaurants last week and you asked to give you a name of a couple of the ones I really like. In Maryland I like El Ricon Boliviano but the best one is in Arlington, VA and it's Cecilia's Restaurant. I've frequented that place for 15 years. If you go try Saltenas!
Thanks and good luck.

Phyllis Richman: Why, thanks. Wish you could have been with us longer. Cecilia's used to have a branch near the Post, on Vt. Ave., and I loved the saltenas (big, soft meat pies with egg and etc. in them).

Wash, D.C: Phyllis:
We had shad roe for the first time after hearing you wax poetic about it for the past month. WOW! is all my husband and I can say....we will have to make tracks to cover 28 years without shad roe's unique taste in our lives....Thank you for this most wonderful of gastronomic revelations!
May your retirement be full of shad roe and spring asparagus and local, hand-picked strawberries. (This is my idea of retirement, at least!)

Phyllis Richman: We clearly share a vision of retirement. I hope more of you will discover shad, shad roe, saltenas, even baked Alaska as a result of our get-togethers.

Let me tell you of a great pasta dish I had recently, at Al Forno in Providence. A bundle of asparagus was grilled so it was slightly charred and firm, and lightly buttered. A sheet of sheer pasta - fresh lasagna - was dipped in melted butter (on both sides) and draped over the asparagus and then sprinkled with freshly grated parmesan. Oh, spring!

Sticks, Mt. Airy: Dearest Phyllis you will be sorely missed!! I have grown up dining with you...
You were at the International Association of Culinary Professional Cookbook Awards. I understand you led the panel of 33 judges? Wow! Did you enjoy it?
How would you have rated the food at the event?

Phyllis Richman: What I did, I chaired the committee of cookbook judges, and over last winter we evaluated about 400 cookbooks (each judge doing a single category, thank goodness). It was hard work and great fun, a very good way to learn about what makes a good cookbook and a good recipe.

Glad you grew up dining with me. Now I'm going to grow old cooking and eating for fun and writing.

Washington, DC:
Anyone know what's going on with the former space of Sopers on M? It appears there are renovations going on.

Phyllis Richman: It seems to be a burrito place.

Fairfax, VA: I have a friend who is from Argentina and she raves about the food there. I haven't had much luck finding a good Argentinian restaurant in the area. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: We had a terrific Argentine steak house in Georgetown, but it's gone. Anyone know of another?

sticks, Mt. airy: so for your last review, will we see a picture of you without a hat or glasses?

Enjoy your retirement and write more books for us.

Phyllis Richman: Yep, you will.

thanks, I will.

Washington, DC:
Lovely Phyllis,

Oh the horror!!!! The dreadful date has finally come..your last day. We will all miss you dearly. I was wondering...are there many contenders for your position as of now? I'm imagining hundreds of wanna-be's along with the few with great experiences as a food writer. When will we find out who will be the final chosen one?

Phyllis Richman: I wish I knew, and the candidates wish they knew. I think one will be chosen in the next few weeks. There is an impressive group, though hardly hundreds.

Vienna, VA: re DiFibo's in Bethany - in my opinion it is highly overrated, food, price etc. One summer they even charged extra for the ice in my drink. If you're going to Bethany, go to Sedona's - just one person's opinion.

Phyllis Richman: You're right about Sedona; I'd forgotten to include it, and I've liked it a lot.

An extra charge for ice? Unbelievable. Did you ask if they'd charge the same once it melted?

Silver Spring, MD: Although a bottle (or draft) of beer costs about as much as a glass of wine or a dessert at many restaurants, it is common to find the beer selection (and price list) left off the beverage section of the menu and left off the wine list as well. My most common experience in that circumstance, when I ask the waiter about the choice of beers, is either "I'll have to go find out", or a long list read rapidly without prices.

Do you have any thoughts why beer often gets short shrift on menus?

Phyllis Richman: For one thing, there's no long tradition of listing beers in print. They may change often, but that's probably no excuse. We have to train waiters to notice cultural change if the restaurateurs don't do it. Keep asking for that list.

small town, USA: I was a Washingtonian for several years and recently moved away from the area. I miss the DC restaurants that I used to enjoy dining at. Are restaurants willing to share their recipes? I don't get back to the DC area often enough for visits and would like to replicate, as best I can, one of my favorite entrees at home.

Phyllis Richman: Restaurants are more than ever ready to share their recipes now that many o f them have them on computer and can readily print them out.

Washington DC: RE Baked Alaska--

Clydes's of Chevy Chase has some in a setting that might be great for a father and daughter dinner.

Phyllis Richman: Good choice! Thanks.

Bethesda, MD: Phyllis: Best wishes for your pending retirement. On the topic of transitions: Any recent reports on 2 personal favorites, Lespinasse and Cafe Atlantico, since their chefs departed? Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Jacques von Staden is the new chef at Lespinasse, I heard (though I haven't verified it). As for Cafe Atlantico, from what I gather, the two sous chefs who have taken over, who were protegees of Jose Andres, are following well in his footsteps.

mt vernon: Perhaps Vienna, when dining at DiFibo's, was there during the drought. I've never been there before, but if it was during the drought then the restaurant was right disencourage people from ordering tap water and ice, no?

Phyllis Richman: But why charge for ice rather than water?

Washington, DC: RE: Beer. It hardly costs as much as a glass of wine these days! I would never pay $7.95 for a good microbrew!

Phyllis Richman: Have you checked the top-priced beers at Brickskeller?

Arlington, VA: Hi -just want to respectfully disagree with the negative comments about DiFebo's in Bethany. I've been going there for years and it's fabulous! It started as a small mostly take-out shop and has expanded into a beautiful restaurant. Their sandwiches/subs are perfect for a beach lunch and their dinner menu is unique and delicious - recently had shrimp linguine in a corn broth that was excellent.

Just my opinion, but I would definitely recommend it to beach diners...

Phyllis Richman: Glad to have another opinion.

Washington, DC: Where do you see the DC restaurant scene in, say, five years? Continued emphasis on glamour? Food quality? - organic farming is booming in the region. More gentrification and marginalization?

Phyllis Richman: I see good and bad directions: too much overpricing and ersatz glamour, too many chains that relax their standards after they're popular, and also more exciting young chefs and older chefs who are at last getting to run their own kitchens, and increasingly pleasant and reasonable neighborhood restaurants, both homegrown and ethnic. It's that duality that keeps the restaurant scene fascinating.

We can talk about this more next week, but it's time to go now. I'll be back for two more weeks, and I hope all of you will, too.

Mark S: Hi Phyllis. Jacques von Staden is not working at Lespinasse. I understand he is working on Cafe Ole and a new restaurant. Lespinasse has no chef at the moment - the Watergate either.

Phyllis Richman: Oops - one last note. Jacques, where are you?