By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

A fter 23 years as the Washington Post restaurant critic, Phyllis C. Richman is retiring in May. Her last review appears in the June 4 edition of the Washington Post Magazine.

Below is today's transcript.

Washington,DC: Hi Phyllis: This is just a comment. We are always recognizing Chefs and their talents--and I think that is fine, but what about the people who supervise the dining room and its staff? I was at Sesto Senso recently, and back on the scene is Francesco Pistorio who was at the helm of Bice for so many years. Hats off to Francesco who can make an evening just wonderful, even if it is in a noisy, high energy atmosphere. I wish we had more restaurant managers like him!

Phyllis Richman: Yes, yes, let's start on a high note this lovely Thursday and the penultimate Richman chat line.

It's true, we don't give enough recognition to excellent maitre d's or waiters (or, for t hat matter, how about outstanding diners?). It's hard to keep track of them -they do move around, change schedules, etc. But mostly it's that the servers and hosts do their job directly but chefs more obviously exert an influence over every meal.

Brookland, DC: Hi Phyllis, I continue to be mystified as to why I have not read word one about my favorite outdoor spot in DC from any of the food writers at the Post. I am referring to "Island Jim's Crab Shack and Tiki Bar," in my neighborhood, Brookland. Yes, that would be Brookland, DC.!!
"Island Jim's" is whimsical with its towering real palm trees, and tropical plants, and fun with island music and dancing in the sand. Oh yes, and there is a beach too! It is a colorful trip to the tropics with its island street scenes and most importantly it has great food. My entire family just loves it. Y'all do know where Brookland is don't you?

Phyllis Richman: Maybe that's because telephone info has no listing for it. Have you got its address and phone #? Is it open for dinner? lunch? both? Sounds thrilling. Just the place to celebrate spring.

Bethesda, MD: Hi Phyllis.

Only one more week? WAAAAHHH! I'm submitting this question nice and early so you have time to think about it...cause I'm DYING to know the answer.

It's your last day at the Washington Post, and all the area restaurants have banded together to give you a send-off dinner. You can choose your courses from any restaurant as a mix and match thing: salad, soup, appetizer, entree, side dishes, dessert.

What do you order and from which restaurants?

Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: It would have to be such a LONG dinner. Kinkead's grilled squid or its salmon stew or its seafood chowder? Obelisk's pasta, certainly. Some sushi from Makoto, Kaz's and Sushi-Ko. Then t here's Galileo's pastas. A soup of the day from Bread Line. Oysters raw from Pesce, fried from Johnny's Half Shell. Cashion's could do the vegetables, certainly including spinach. Or maybe start with a fried oyster tasting--including DC Coast's. Egad, I'm full, and I haven't even thought about main dishes. Impossible. Ask me in a year, when I've really had enough time to think.

Washington D.C.: Phyllis: Recently I met a man who is moving to Washington -- his name is Jean Louis. No he's not the great chef, but he is a delightful and talented gentlemen who was born in France. I want to tell this new resident all about the other Jean Louis and I can't remember where he headed to after the Watergate. Where did he go and where is he?

Phyllis Richman: He's in NY (Palladin restaurant) and Las Vegas (Jean-Louis at Napa restaurant in Rio Suites Hotel). And of course he's cooking for charity events and such around the world.

Washington D.C.: Hello Phyllis! Another beautiful day for your chat. Someone I know accused you of being somewhat "snooty" when it comes to restaurants. I defended you and said you don't shy away from "low brow" places. He then said that he would only believe me if you would be willing to go to the Waffle Shop (a coffee shop plus Chinese food on 10th St. across from Ford's Theater). Well, have you ever been there and did you like it? It was profiled in the "Crummy but Good" column in the Food section quite some time ago. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: When I was 16, I worked every Saturday at the stocking counter at Kitty Kelly shoe shop. And I lunched at the downtown Waffle Shop (that was before it added Asian cooking to its repertoire). Up, I still get there on occasion, but not often. I prefer the Alexandria one simply because its name is spelled Waffle Shop in its awning, and it's never bothered to change it.

Snooty? Well, what else do people expect of a restaurant critic?

DC: Hi Phyllis,
Have you (or anyone else) been to a restaurant in on Norfolk Ave in Bethesda called Steamers? I've never seen a menu outside of it or talked to anyone who's been there.

Thanks for the wonderful chat. It's the highlight of my week.

Phyllis Richman: Someone this week told me it's his preferred Bethesda crab house, unless he's looking for some old fashioned cantankerous waiter service.

Suitland, MD: On the subject of places to dine outdoors. . .Phyllis, I know you've mentioned a few places in past discussions and in your book, but could others write in with their recommendations and favorites?

Thanks. I just LOVE to eat outside and want to know more places!

Phyllis Richman: Indeed, I, too, would like to hear from all of you about your favorites (do I hear a groundswell for Rosslyn's Quarterdeck?).

Washington, DC: Phyllis,

I had dinner at Restaurant Nora where they served me a piece of veal that was quite tough. When I mentioned it to the waiter, he said that the reason was that they got their veal from a place which feeds the animals organically. Is this an acceptable answer? Shouldn't tenderness be a cooking issue?

Phyllis Richman: It is definitely not an acceptable answer. Nor does it sound as if you had an acceptable waiter. He should have whisked it away with profuse apologies.

Montgomery Village MD: Hi,
First Best wishes on your retirement from restaurant reviewing. I have always appreciated your reviews and have recently enjoyed reading your restaurant mysteries!
My husband and I have just had a baby, she's 14 weeks old now and are now starting to think about getting out and about in DC again. Do you have any suggestions for baby friendly restaurants that have good food and are not places like Chuck E. Cheese?
P.S. I am still nursing and also want to know if I should call restaurants in advance to see if that would be a problem there?

Phyllis Richman: It's an interesting dilemma whether or not to ask about breastfeeding because many who would be appalled at the prospect wouldn't even know you were doing it if you were discreet. You've got to judge your own deftness, the baby's probable behavior and the situation of the table - whether you can be discreet. You can always go to the rest room (okay, I know) or seek out some quiet place.

It's hard to pick a specific restaurant where you can take a baby, but I would call ahead and ask the restaurant that, and assure t hem that you will whisk the baby away if it fusses. A somewhat noisy restaurant is a safer bet than a very quiet one.

Do try. My first baby's first restaurant was that lovely Pa. country inn, Coventry Forge. The staff and I had a wonderful time.

Washington D.C.: The Patio at Old Anglers' Inn is a good candidate for outdoor dinning

Phyllis Richman: It sure is, as long as you're equipped with a reservation and a generous budget. It's a magnificent terrace overlooking forest and well endowed with flowering plants.

Fairfax, VA: Hi Phyllis...a quickie for you. Is Francesco Ricchi still a part of Cesco Trattoria in Bethesda? Thought I'd read he was involved in a new venture recently. We'll be dining there this Saturday.

Phyllis Richman: HE's doing both Cesco and Etrusco.

washington, dc: Island Jim's Crab Shack and Tiki Bar
is located at 901 Monroe Street
Northeast
Washington DC 20018

(202)529-4002

You Can Take The Metro
Red Line To CUA-Brookland

Phyllis Richman: So why doesn't Information know that? Thanks. I'll see you there.

Washington, DC: Dear Ms. Richman,

Your weekly reviews will be sorely missed. Any news on who will be trying to fill your shoes? Any news on what is happening at the Greenwood in Cleveland Park space? Also have you heard anything about a new restaurant called Corduroy? Thanks

Phyllis Richman: No, yes, and no. My successor hasn't been chosen yet. A very exciting new restaurant is going into the Greenwood space, but I promised not to say anything until the contract is signed (watch for it in Turning Tables). And what's Corduroy?

Adams Morgan: For all of you outdoor eaters, I would recommend La Fourcette - fabulous indoors and out...

Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes, a very endearing little French restaurant with a few outdoor tables. On 18th St. in Adams Morgan.

Washington, DC: I was thinking that since you'll be signing off soon, maybe you would provide us with an extra thirty minutes or hour next week. I think many of us are going to need a little closure.

Phyllis Richman: Maybe we can get a grief counselor.

Seriously, I appreciate all those nice things you all are saying about how you'll miss me. And actually, it will be mutual. But there are times to move on. And I'll still have my email address (richmanp@twp.com--no, I won't be giving individual restaurant recommendations, though).

Brookland, DC: Hello again, You are correct, I just called the restaurant next door to "Island Jim's," which is "Colonel Brooks Tavern" same owner. He said that, "alas, the telephone company made the mistake of not listing Island Jim's Tiki Bar." The number is 202-635-TIKI, and the address is 901 Monroe St. N.E. WDC.
The owner also said that "Colonel Brooks Tavern" has been at the same location for 20 years and has never been written up.
Somebodies are missing the best hamburger in DC!

Phyllis Richman: Not true. I wrote a small review of it back when nobody cared. Thanks for the research.

Washington DC: Hi there! Have you ever been to the Savoy at 1220 19th St. NW? If so how was it?

Phyllis Richman: It's quirky.

Baseball Nut: I don't know if you're a sports fan, but I was wondering what you think of the food at the local stadiums. As I recall you reviewed the selections at Camden Yards when it opened, and they are still the best. In my opinion, the food at MCI Center is OK but way too expensive, and the food at FedEx Field is just as expensive and not as good. But minor league baseball is my favorite -- the Frederick Keys have really good ballpark food that doesn't break the bank, and the Bowie Baysox are just a notch below. The Potomac Cannons are the least expensive, and you get what you pay for (except for the good Italian sausage). Any thoughts in this area?

Phyllis Richman: I confess I'm not much of a sports fan, but I am a sports food fan. It's the hot dogs that grab me at Camden Yards, and the charcoaled steak sandwiches at Frederick's ballpark. What appalled me there, though, was that the ballpark ran out of water halfway through the game last time I was there.

Washington, DC: With respect to veal, is there a difference in tenderness between free-range veal and milk-fed veal. Some of us don't like the idea of hanging the poor little fella upside down in a dark room, feeding it just the right amount of milk to achieve the perfect taste--it leaves a bad taste in our mouths. I'd rather compromise on the taste to be sure the baby cow got to romp in the fields before being brought to my dinner table.

Phyllis Richman: I'm no expert on this, but there's no reason free-range veal can't be tender. And even old tough steer meat can be tender when it's cooked properly.

Washington, DC: I have a two and a four year old. As to kid friendly restaurants, try Tex-Mex such as Rio Grande. Go early and you will find yourself awash in babies, kids, and assorted relations.

Another thing that worked for my wife and I are the outside eating areas of the restaurants in Woodley Park. We live nearby and we would roll the stroller along Conn. Ave. until the baby feel asleep and then pull into Saigon Gourmet or Lebanese Taverna. Again, go early.

Phyllis Richman: Good ideas. Thanks. But you need not restrict yourselves to restaurants that are awash in kids.

Silver Spring, MD: Re: outdoor dining. I like to go to Shirlington, because many of the restaurants have outdoor tables, they're mostly quite good, and you have a choice of different types of food.

Are there other locations that have multiple good restaurants with outdoor tables?

Phyllis Richman: Sure: 17th ST. around P, Adams Morgan, Conn. Ave, etc. etc.

Wheaton MD: Harry Browne's on State Circle in Annapolis has a few outdoor tables that make for a lovely setting. It's a great place for crab cakes, beef tenderloin and has a nice brunch.

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear news of Annapolis.

Washington, DC: Oh Phyllis-

I have to comment on the question you just answered. A 14 week old baby? In a restaurant?

I suppose, the parents know if the child will sleep through the meal, etc. I just worry.

I have had far too many nice meals spoiled by a screaming child. The child screamed, the waiters got nervous, the manager disappeared, and that parents just made googly noises at the kid.

Recently, while eating at Bistro Francais in Georgetown, I watched a couple with a 4 year old try to eat. The child was up, down, interrupting other tables, getting in the way of the waiter, chanting nonsense syllables at the top of her lungs. The parents threatened to take her home a few times, but it had no effect. In the main, they simply ignored her. As they were leaving, the father told her they could stop for ice cream on the way home because she had been such a good girl!

So, ok, maybe a particular kid is capable of not ruining a nice meal. But really, parents, assess it reasonably. And if your kid screams, remember, the rest of the dining public is much more sensitive to your kid's screams than you are. TAKE THE CHILD OUT IF HE/SHE ACTS UP.

Oh, and one final note. While you're right, no one would notice discrete breastfeeding, please, take the child out of the dining room to change it. Please.

Phyllis Richman: Oof.

Anyway, to back up to the beginning, yes, the deal absolutely must be that the parents (or a parent) will whisk the child out of the dining room the moment it makes noise. It's not fair to spoil other diners' meals with crying or horseplay.

re: outdoor dining: See yesterday's WP food section.

Phyllis Richman: Of course. Why didn't I think of that? It's even bound to be on site here.

DC: Eating outside...

Cashion's

Rocky's (Next door to Cashion's)

Cafe Luna (P St at 17th)

The few tables on the sidewalk (Can't even really call it a sidewalk cafe) at Bella Roma in Cleveland Park

Zorba's at Dupont Circle

In the garden at Firehook in Cleveland Park

Polly's Cafe on U St.

Ah, spring is almost here, isn't it?

Phyllis Richman: I thought it's come and gone. Impressive list.

Lincoln NE: Actually more of a comment...
I wrote in a few weeks ago looking for restaurants using organic ingredients.
The veal question really got my notice.
I wonder if the waiter knew the difference between veal and white veal. White veal is from calves that have been confined in such a way that they cannot stand/move in their pens. This keeps muscle from strengthening and making meat "tougher." This practice is specifically prohibited in all certified organic livestock production. It's considered inhumane treatment. Maybe staffs of restaurants who serve organically produced/grown items should do some education regarding what "organic" means. I work in the organic agricultural industry, and am constantly amazed at how little the general public understands what I do!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for adding some real information to our speculation.

Washington, DC: Phyllis:

Good afternoon, and I share the sentiments of the rest of DC when I say you will be missed.

I am curious about your review last weekend of Bobby Van's Steakhouse. I've been there several times since it's opening and have always had an excellent meal. Do you feel you may have been harder on them since they were from out of town?

Just curious.

Phyllis Richman: Maloney and Porcelli, which I'm reviewing Sunday is also from out of town. See what you think.

Why would I - or anyone- be hard on a restaurant because it's from out of town? As for your having had good experiences, that is absolutely possible - and I said so in my review. Each experience, each meal is different. And I hoped to guide diners to the better ones and steer them away from the worse ones.

Washington, DC: How many times, in all your years of eating out for a living, have you become ill, or felt suspiciously not right in the following hours of a meal (not including hangovers)?

Phyllis Richman: Once, only once, have I had food poisoning, and it was from a restaurant in Paris.

alex, va: Your graduating thesis: how has the arrival and widespread use of the internet impacted the restaurant scene and subsequent critic's job in DC?

Phyllis Richman: Its effect is only beginning to be felt, I think. Already it makes obvious that anyone can critique a restaurant, but the trick is to find critics who know what they are doing and know how to transmit their experiences and are consistent and with whom you have some rapport.

Washington, DC: Just a comment to echo the person about the tough veal at Nora. Unfortunately, the meal was a complex business dinner, and I didn't feel I could do the send back routine. My assessment was that a careless chef just overcooked the meat, dressed the plate and sent it out.

Phyllis Richman: It's not merely a matter of overcooking the meat, but it could be cooking it incorrectly--over too-high heat, or try to cook a tough cut over dry heat rather than with some moisture to soften it.

Washington, DC: RE: Babies in restaurants...

I was fortunate enough to have dinner last week at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and one table brought a very cute 6 month old to dinner (good way to start life).

Goes to show you that if you have a well behaved baby and are brave, you can take a baby anywhere to dinner!

Phyllis Richman: Sounds like a good start in life.

georgetown: I'll miss you Phyllis, but at least we all have one more week with you! I have more of a comment than a question. I just spent the most wonderful evening with my boyfriend, celebrating a promotion and recent acceptance into grad school. It was at our favorite neighborhood Italian restaurant four blocks from my apartment in Crystal City. I realized how much I will miss our fabulously cozy little place when I move in a few weeks. It probably hasn't been reviewed, and if it has, isn't one of the memorable ones, but it is still my favorite and will be a well-remembered spot during my two-year stint in DC . I always feel so at home there and find that it's where my boyfriend and I go to "just be" and eat. I just wanted to thank the people at Cafe Italia (23rd Street) for their warm and welcoming atmosphere and service for the last few years that I've lived here. Also, I wanted to thank you for the great reviews that have gotten through many a culinary dilemma and the chats each week during my Thursday lunch hours. You will be missed...as will my favorite dish of zuppa di pesce! Good luck in your retirement!

Phyllis Richman: I - and, I'm sure, Caffe Italian - thank you.

DC General Manager: PR:
What is your opinion of automatic gratuity for large parties? With recent lawsuits and such, operators like myself are becoming very wary...imposing a no add policy could lead to serious server rebellion...something none of us can afford these days.

Phyllis Richman: I think restaurants ought to add tips automatically for parties of, say, eight or more. Groups sometimes balk at adding the appropriate tip because it seems like so much money, or maybe they feel ready to act like cheapskates if they are sharing the responsibility.

The legal problems have come when an automatic tip has been added intermittently, or only for certain tables rather than, say, EVERY table of eight or more.

Arlington, VA: Hello! What is the status of James Carville and Mary Matalin's restaurant?

Phyllis Richman: I'm watching, but nothing seems to be happening. (James, Mary, where are you? We're waiting!)

washington, d.c.: do you know of a vegetarian restaurant near the Smithsonian? (walking distance) we are working at the earthday festival and are starving.

Phyllis Richman: Ironic, but there are hardly any all-vegetarian restaurants in DC, much less near the Smithsonian. Try the cafeteria at the National Gallery of Art.

DC: I am curious--do you consider yourself much of a cook? I like to think of myself as somewhat of an amateur chef, and I find it often colors my perceptions of restaurants. Do you notice any kind of impact your own cooking style or techniques might have on reviews?

Phyllis Richman: I do like to cook, and plan to do more of it. As for the impact, at least I know what can go wrong to make the veal tough.

Adams Morgan: Any suggestions for eating in Bethesda?

Phyllis Richman: Early.

Wash, DC: Phyllis--

On the new parents looking for dining, I wanted to chime in as the parent of an 18 month old. You suggested looking for a place that wasn't overly quiet. Certainly a good idea--I feel less self conscious when she fusses, or even when she's just happily exuberant!

On the other hand, though, our worst restaurant experience (at about the same age as your first writer's child) was in a place that was too noisy--just too boisterous for an early outing.

I'd vote to aim somewhere in the middle. We found a neighborhood Chinese restaurant that's casual enough to not feel uncomfortable, but calm enough not to overwhelm her.

We, too, will miss you!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. And particularly look for ethnic restaurants where the owners' kids are on the premises.

WDC: Do you know when the Sun. Dupont Farmers Makt. will be starting -- same for Sat. in Adams Morgan?

Phyllis Richman: Dupont will be open this Sunday (last Sun. it shied away from demonstration-ridden DC). I don't know yet abt Adams Morgan.

Crofton, MD: Hi:

I've been away from the DC area for a while--so please pardon me if this is a repetitive question. How are you going to spend your time, once you're not reviewing the DC restaurant scene?

Phyllis Richman: I'm going to spend more of my time writing novels and I will do some freelance writing. More important, I'll attend more concerts, more theater, more museums and ever more afternoon movies. And cook. And read.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis -

Congratulations on your retirement.

Will you be staying in the area, or will
you be splitting your time between DC
and somewhere else?

Any word on when that French restaurant in the old Food for Thought space will open?

Phyllis Richman: I'll be right here, in the best retirement city I know.

Bistrot du Coin is still heavily boarded up, so I guess it won't open soon.

VA & MD: The week before last, my husband took several business associates to dinner at Sam & Harry's in Tyson's Corner. At the beginning of the meal, he ordered a bottle of wine for the table. The gentlemen drank the wine with dinner and a fine time was had by all - until the check arrived. The bill was for a slightly different and considerably more expensive wine than the one he had ordered. The waiter had done a bait & switch maneuver and had actually served the party the more expensive bottle of wine so my husband paid the bill and didn't say anything to the staff or management since they had actually consumed the more expensive vintage but he has sworn off ever going to Sam & Harry's again. He doesn't trust a management that allows waitpersons to indulge in this kind of behavior. Is this business as usual at Sam & Harry's? What should he have done? Is it too late to write a letter to the management?

Phyllis Richman: I wrote about such practices in my latest novel. It's not often that it happens, but there are scurrilous waiters on occasion - and some honest mistakes. You shouldn't be shy about bringing such a matter t o the attention of the manager.

Suitland, MD: For the Earth Day vegetarians: There is a great vegetarian Indian place in the Old Post Office Pavilion, on 12th Street between Constitution and Independence. It's in the food court downstairs! Quite yummy!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the suggestion.

The floodgates have opened with responses from parent pouring in. Sorry we're out of time--maybe more next week.

As for next week, please keep in mind that it is my last chat. So ask that question you've been saving. Now, off to a sunny sidewalk table...