By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Phyllis Richman - Live
Hosted by Phyllis Richman
Washington Post Staff Writer
Thursday, April 27, 2000
Noon EDT

After 23 years as the Washington Post restaurant critic, Phyllis C. Richman is retiring in May. Her last review appears in the June 4 edition of the Washington Post Magazine.

Phyllis was online today for her final hour about the restaurant scene in Washington. Please read the transcript below.

Sadness in DC: I guess it's only fitting that it's gray and rainy out for your last chat, eh? You've brought us so many sunny Thursdays - we will all miss you terribly.

Two final questions: Who makes the best french fries in DC? And where can I find real French/Belgian-style frites?

I'm partial to Checkers fries when I get 'em from a fast food joint, but I'm yearning for the real thing...

Phyllis Richman: Hello, everyone. This is hard. It's a dreary-looking day in DC (for the several years of this chat, nearly every Thurs. noon has been sunny), and I've been flooded with wonderful notes and letters. And it has struck me how much I'll miss these chats. (I'll get over it, and so will you, but it has been remarkably interesting for me). I'm thrilled about retiring, but now that it is imminent, I have to face the poignancy, too.

I'm going to start this session with one last plug for a friend of mine, but only because I truly and unequivocally believe in what I am recommending. There is a Belgian restaurant in Olney - Le Mannequin Pis - which is said to make fries as good as the Belgians are known to do, but I haven't tried them. I've tried plenty of other excellent fries, too, but no one place comes to mind at the moment. But I can absolutely recommend those at the Bread Line (Pa Ave between 17th & 18th). The potatoes are right, the oil is fresh and the fries are, as is proper, fried twice and cooled until darkly, beautifully brown. Wish I had some here at my computer.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,

Thank you for your years of service. I have 2 questions.

1. You have alluded to an "exciting" new restaurant that is opening where Greenwood Cleveland Park used to be. Now that you are leaving, can you spill the beans?

2. On the corner of 10th and Pennsylvania (across from the FBI building), there is a sign that says "Coming Soon -- Ten Penh Restaurant." Cute pun. Have you heard anything about it? From the name, I assume it's Vietnamese/Cambodian.

Thank you

Phyllis Richman: Now that the lease is signed, I'm going to scoop my own Turning Tables (and hope nobody else follows suit) and tell you that Frank Ruta (the chefs' chef, I'm told) and pastry chef Ann Amernick are opening Palena at the Cleveland Park site. Look for it around Aug.

Ten Penh, I believe, is the Asian-fusion restaurant-to-come from DC Coast.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis - One of your favorite chefs is Patrick O'Connell whose favorite restaurant for his night off is "Four Sisters" in Eden Center. Your review of them is a couple years old but wasn't particularly favorable. Do you think it's changed since then or do you think critics and chefs just have different ideas about what makes a good meal?

Phyllis Richman: Both are true. Restaurants change, and each person's experience can be different. Also, people have different tastes-- even people who are food experts.

Hill, DC: Please, what again is your email address?

Phyllis Richman: richmanp@twp.com

Washington, DC: Phyllis, it's been a pleasure reading your reviews and following your advice over the years.

My question: in your opinion, why do U.S. restaurants specializing in French cuisine consistently win the honors and awards over restaurants serving other types of cuisine?

Phyllis Richman: That is changing. It is still true, though, that French chefs are more likely to have had long professional training than many others (especially those who open restaurants because their friends say they are good home cooks). American training has pretty much caught up, but many amateurs still go into the business. Some are good, some are just at sea.

SW DC: Phyllis, though I doubt this will be posted, I feel compelled while wishing you well in retirement, at the same time I recall Al Gore's chant at the 1992 Democratic Convention --- "It's time for you to go." The Post's general readership will be better served by the new restaurant column in the Weekend section. Your reviews were for the most part of expense-account restaurants that the vast majority of Washington Post readers will never encounter. Long ago I stopped reading your reviews because they lacked any practical application to real life. To be sure there are readers who frequent those type of restaurants, but your refusal to regularly review restaurants for families, and for those who cannot afford expense-account pricing, was particularly troubling to me. Your reviews of those places became literary excursions. I wish you well in your literary career; you have prepared yourself well.

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear some second opinions and criticisms (though I wonder whether my reviews of the Burmese and the Kurdish restaurant recently are considered too expensive). I've tried to review a mix, but every mix would be different.

Still, though, we agree. It is time for me to go.

Washington, D.C.: I don't have a question I was just like congratulate Ms. Richman on her retirement. My mom worked for you a very long time. (Ms. Mary Terry) and I just wanted to take the time to thank you for being so kind to my mother over the years and congratulate you on your retirement. Good Luck!!

Phyllis Richman: I'm going to take time for a couple of personal moments in this chat. First, this, because I'm delighted to hear from Mary Terry's son and wish he'd email me (see above address). A second was from a college classmate who's now in Jerusalem. Charlie, I'd love an email.

Okay, back to business.

Falls Church, VA: How do our DC area restaurants fare versus those in other US cities? Are we in the nation's Top Ten best served markets in your opinion? What about worldwide?

P.S. What's your next move, or are you really retiring?

P.P.S. Tell us about your replacement.

Phyllis Richman: We have almost always had a couple of world-class restaurants, and our middling restaurants have improved over the years. And this is one of the great ethnic-eating cities. Still, we don't have the depth of good restaurants that NY, SF, Paris, etc., have. Top ten in the world? No. Top ten in US? Certainly.

Yes, I am really retiring, if you can call writing books being retired.

As for my replacement, that's still undecided.

Annandale, VA: Since we have one last opportunity to pick your brain, I was wondering something. After all these years of fine dining, do you ever eat fast food? Or pop a frozen dinner in the microwave at home? Your reviews and online discussions will be missed. Enjoy your retirement, Phyllis.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I'm more likely t o pop a roasting chicken in the oven than a frozen dinner in the microwave, but I am a fan of Progresso Chicarina soup on fluish winter days, I'm a fool for popcorn and Chex party mix, and if I can't find something else in the house, I'd be grateful to find a frozen pizza, though I'd grumble as I ate it. I do love McDonald's breakfast sandwiches and hash browns, too.

Falls Church, VA: Phyllis: Adieu! Such sadness...
But, regarding the real French/Belgian fries, or frites, PLEASE, PLEASE go to Occoquan Virginia and visit the Belgique Gormande. web page: www.monumental.com/belgique
No, I'm not employed by them, I just love this place and their food.

Phyllis Richman: I've heard that from others, too. Thanks.

Spotsylvania Virginia : Will a full picture ever be shown of Ms. Richman?

Phyllis Richman: YEs, along with my farewell column on June 4. Also, the CBS morning show is going to unmask me Friday, June 2.

You're probably better off living with your fantasy image, though. I know I would be.

Arlington, VA: We'll miss you. My family debated this issue over dinner several times. Is the Washington Post taking you to a big final dinner, if so where?

Second, if they said, "Why don't you go out for one more dinner, on us, no reviews", where would you go? and how different would it be to enjoy without making mental notes?

Phyllis Richman: I haven't had that offer, though I was delighted that Don Graham took me for a goodbye lunch at one of our nostalgic favorites, La Fourchette. And my buddies on the James Beard committee are taking me in NY to Gramercy Tavern. Do I ever stop evaluating? Not yet. But I'm relieved not to have to think about how to say in print what I'm thinking. It is much, much more fun.

NW DC: Bless you, Phyllis! All the best wishes for your new endeavors.

As for decent fries in town, the best I've found are at Cafe Deluxe. Always hot, crisp and perfect.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the idea.

Don in Falls Church: Re: "Al Gore's chant at the 1992 Democratic Primary: 'It's time for you to go.'" because of only reviewing "expense-account restaurants."

To heck with this. If anything, I think you review TOO much on the low end. For every paragraph you write on Ceilov, you should be writing twenty pages on Daisuke Utagawa (Sushi-Ko) and Michel Richard (Citronelle).

Just goes to show that you have a wide audience with different needs, and there is no pleasing everyone. You've probably done about as balanced a job as anyone possibly could.

Take care, Phyllis, and I hope retirement brings you happiness and fulfillment.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the balancing-act comment. There's no way that one column a week can please everyone, but I think it will refreshing for the Post - and for me as a reader - to have a new perspective and a new kind of balance.

Washington DC: I have to take issue with SW DC who said it was time for you to go. I have always enjoyed your reviews, and as someone who has rarely eaten at the more expensive restaurants in town, I have always felt that you very adequately covered restaurants that are reasonably priced at the lower end of the spectrum.

I guess in D.C. there always have to be a few who spoil a good going away party...

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. But I don't see it as spoiling. I've always rather enjoyed controversy, and if nobody were criticizing me, I'd worry that what I was writing was too bland.

Washington: Phyllis, in all your experiences, which restaurant in this area has the top restroom facilities?

Phyllis Richman: I can't say in this area, but my all-time favorite restaurant restroom is the men's room at Windows on the World.

As I said about controversy. . .

DC: Phyllis, we're sad to see you go, but have fun! To confirm - Ten Penh is the new Asian fusion restaurant being brought to us by the Chef Jeff Tunks and the other owners of DC Coast. It is scheduled to open on July 31, 2000.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks.

Alex, VA: Dear Ms. Richman,

I must respectfully disagree with the "expense account" poster. Maybe he or she should have kept reading your reviews so he or she would see all the variety they encompass. I went to Pasta Peasant after your review appeared and was delighted by the food AND the prices.

In another area, is Mr. Siestema your replacement? Did you see the photos of him in the latest Washingtonian from his modeling days? QUITE the cutie!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks to you, too.

Tom is certainly a hot contender. Yes, I saw the photos, and thought they were wonderful. I've known Tom for 15-20 years, and indeed he is a cutie. Also a terrific writer with a well honed palate, lots of professional experience and enormous energy and passion for restaurants.

Chicago, IL: Picking up on someone's earlier question, do you often find yourself asked to "review" or comment on a friend's home-cooked meal? If so, how do you handle it when something is good, but not great, or if it's something that just doesn't work?

Much thanks for all the columns.

Phyllis Richman: There's always the "I've had a wonderful time" gambit.

Washington DC: I remember "meeting" you (of course you were fully disguised) over 20 years ago when you used to judge the "Edible Art Show," a wonderful event sponsored by local artists and galleries. Do you remember the show? I wish you all the best, Phyllis.

Phyllis Richman: I'll never forget the "Nude Descending Staircase" in chopped liver.

DC: Have you ever had a good meal at any airport anywhere?
-Frequent traveler

Phyllis Richman: Absolutely. I brought lunch from a Paris street market.

If you mean "restaurant" food, I kind of like the clam chowder at Legal Sea Foods at National, and a garlic pretzel from Annie's when I'm late.

Lake Ridge, Virginia: Best Wishes to you Ms. Richman.

As long as I have lived in this year (going on 15 years now), I have been an avid fan of your columns. One April, after an unsuccessful meal at Provence (right after it opened) I spoke to you on the phone and you suggested that I write and tell Msr. Cam of my overcooked lobster and the mushy beans in the cassoulet. I was actually sitting in front of my computer, typing the letter with the TV on in the other room as the news coverage for the Oklahoma City Bombing began. There was a certain perspective change as I weighed my dry and chewy shellfish against the weight of human suffering coming out of that nightmare. I think that was a self-defining moment and I have since tried hard to think globally when dealing with the stress of "little stuff". For me, you somehow became a part of a significant, positive personal change.

At another point in my life (I don't expect you to remember this either) you encouraged me to apply for a scholarship from Les Dames D'Escouffie (sp?). My ex-husband refused to let me pursue it at the time, hence (in part) his being my EX-husband. Once again you were at the root of an ultimately positive personal change.

I have admired your restaurant reviews, your fiction, and your community contributions. You will be missed.

- Sondre Barnett

Phyllis Richman: Thank you for those very powerful images. Yes, we should all keep in perspective the place and meaning of our restaurant experience. We need to appreciate the pleasure and be grateful for it but keep in mind that it's "only food."

Washington, DC: Phyllis,
I'd like to hear about some the funny or embarrassing things that somehow seem the most appropriate for a day like this. But first, I'll quickly tell you about mine-- at least pertaining to the restaurant review business. Twenty years ago, I worked for the Post as a stringer doing restaurant reviews in the "new" weekly section. I really like the also "new" restaurant cafeteria in the National Gallery. I went on about several items, even saying what Grandma Evelyn from New Jersey thought about the pie. (She loved it.) That came out on Thursday, and on the very next Sunday you wrote a very negative review about the same place and even some of the same items. Guess who people followed? I changed careers shortly after. Good luck on what ever is your next career!

Linda

Phyllis Richman: OOps.

Alexandria, VA: As a religious reader and occasional contributor to your weekly chats, I'd like to say, great work, you will be missed, and hope your retirement is wonderful.

But I do have one last question on something you alluded to earlier: in your experience, are there a good number of restaurants with owners that started as "great cooks at home?" My cousin is a phenomenal amateur chef and has spent a lot of time taking amateur cooking classes but is now interested in trying to open a restaurant. I want to be encouraging, but am worried that only professional chefs with a lot of experience can open a successful restaurant. I know there are exceptions, but are they too few and far between?

Phyllis Richman: A budding restaurateur should at least work in a restaurant - if only f or a few weeks - to see what it's really like.

DC: Do you religiously read Brett Anderson's reviews? Is he applying for your job?

Phyllis Richman: Brett is one of the most original and delightful food critics I know. I wouldn't miss one of his columns. I hear that he, too, is a candidate, along with several others.

Lothian, MD: Phyllis -- will definitely miss your chats. One of my favorite ways of having a "meal" on Saturdays (especially during nice weather) is to go Annapolis around 2:00 and stop here and there for an appetizer and a beer/glass of wine. After going to a few places and varying the types of appetizers, dinner is done! The great thing about this is never having that "overstuffed" feeling after a full meal. Do you ever "nosh" like this?

Phyllis Richman: I love grazing. It's a very American pastime.

Washington, DC: I just wanted to thank you for years of enjoyable reviews. Although I'm only 20, I've been reading your columns for as long as I can remember. Even though I haven't visited many of your favorites (although Citronelle is indeed excellent), I still feel as though I've benefited from your expertise in choosing dishes at every restaurant I visit.
Now, for the question. Usually, I would hesitate to order something like a mixed salad at an upscale Chinese restaurant. A friend did, and it was a beautiful creation garnished with fresh raspberries. When does one make such a counter-intuitive choice? (My father has told me numerous times about the "chinese hamburgers" he ordered for years.)
Many Thanks...you'll be missed.

Phyllis Richman: The key word here is "upscale". In a traditional Chinese restaurant, I wouldn't order a salad, but a fusion or contemporary/modern/inventive one, why not?

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Dear Phyllis,
In 1991, I came to Washington DC to attend university at GW. Coming from Malaysia, where food is just as about as important breathing and living, I quickly discovered who you were. Thanks to you I've enjoyed my best meals at Kinkeads, The Red Sage and the Hibiscus Grill... I'll never forget the time I saved and saved every penny to finally have a meal at the Little Inn. I've since moved to NY, and am now back in Malaysia for a few months - but continue to read your columns fondly, and make lists of new places to visit during my many trips to Washington.
Thank you for introducing a 19-year-old to Washington's cuisine scene. I will remember you fondly. Best wishes and God Bless.

Yvette Michael
GWashington Uni - class of 1994

Phyllis Richman: Thank you, and I hope you're enjoying Malaysia's exciting food.

Arlington, VA: You can own up to it now. Did you ever have so much to drink at a dinner(perhaps an ethnic apertif, etc) that left you grasping the next morning to recall facts for your review?

Phyllis Richman: It wasn't drink that did it.

WDC: Phyllis you will be sorely missed. Your reviews are the highlight of my Sunday's. Even if I like SWDC can't afford all of them, that's surely not the point. I read your reviews for the fantasy of going to some of the restaurants and others I actually go to.

My question is, you seem to be fearless in your food selections. Are there any foods you won't eat? Is there anything you just don't like?

Phyllis Richman: I'm not fond of eyeballs.

DC General Manager: In reference to budding chefs:

A few weeks in the kitchen? I must laugh out loud. Better make it a few years, Opening only after finding passionate sous chefs, managers, and investors with VERY deep pockets. Good luck with that these days.

Phyllis Richman: Actually, I agree with you. But a few weeks would at least be an eye-opener (no pun re last question intended).

Washington, DC: I am from India and have lived in the US for 27 years. I rarely go out to eat Indian food. But if you can advise me of an Indian restaurant which in your opinion is superb and is reasonable in price, I will go for it.

I look forward to your response.

Phyllis Richman: I'm still recommending Heritage India, despite complaints about its service. An d it is not cheap.

rockville, md: Phyllis: Sorry you're going. We always looked forward to seeing which restaurant you were reviewing. My question: now that you're really leaving, why do you think there are less than a handful of good kosher restaurants in the Washington area? Granted, the community isn't nearly as large as NY, but there does seem to be a need. What's the answer.

Phyllis Richman: I think DC is having a hard time supporting even a handful.

Springfield, Virginia: Ode on Phyllis Richman

(-ahem-)

The day has now come, this discussion, our last.
Now all we can do, is read memories of archives past.
Farewell, o' dear goddess,
Of all things so great.
I am only so sad,
I joined this discussion so late.

Alas, I am no poet, but I will miss your reviews. I grew up reading them (born and raised in good ol' Virginia!). Now I don't know what to read first in Sunday's paper.

But I do have two questions, culinary goddess. First, have you ever watched "Iron Chef"? (Improvisational cooking show - sports commentary from Japan) Second, when a paper or journal has two (or more) food reviews, how does one retain identity or distinguish between the two? I'm thinking of the Post's Fare Minded, and also the Boston Globe has Allison Arnett and a Cheap Eats section. In Boston, the division between the two sections appears to be price-based. Are there such distinctions in the Post?

Phyllis Richman: The Post doesn't really have such distinctions, and I think the restaurant coverage is evolving - certainly is about to evolve in some new way. My advice for readers: keep your critical instincts honed. Maintain your skepticism. Read a critic carefully to see how you assess and feel about the judgements and learn for yourself which critics you trust for which kinds of restaurants or which food styles. Take all of us with a grain of salt.

Tysons Corner, VA: Hi Phyllis,

First of all, congratulations on your career and well deserved retirement. I've grown up reading your reviews and will miss them greatly.

I asked this months ago but it never got answered: where in this area can you get really great mac and cheese? You know, a quattro formaggio type thing.

Phyllis Richman: The best I've had in DC is gone: It was at Blue Plate. The best I've had anywhere is in the restaurant in NY's Soho Grand Hotel.

Mt Pleasant: Good luck. I've enjoyed these chat immensely and I don't think I've missed one. I always thought you reviewed a good cross-section of restaurants but I think any reviewer needs to look towards reviewing more top end places because people are spending more and expect more from those places. Also, with only a weekly review, there are only so many places that can be done in a year. That being said, someone once suggested to me you favor DC born places over outpost of out of towners (although last Sunday's review was favorable). Did you ever feel that was the case? If so, why?
Thanks again for everything.

Phyllis Richman: Either I misspoke or it's been misread. I favor a restaurant with the owner on site, but I don't care where he or she came from.

Bethesda, MD: Phyllis - Believe it or not, my grandmother was very close with your parents Helen and Abe, and I just wanted to thank you for your memorable reviews over the years... as a younger "Washingtonian", it is nice to know that Washington has turned out some spectacular food critics!

I wish you much furthered success in retirement!

Regards,

JL

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. Helen and Abe, my parents, of course gave me my start as a diner and a critic.

McLean, VA: hello and farewell,
I've relied on you for so long…now, two last queries:
The old La Brasserie on Capitol Hill was an unbelievable bastion of good french food.
I know that Raymond Campet has opened Cote D'Or in Falls Church, but what has become of the remarkable chef Gaby Abouin (sp?)?

French cooking remains my favorite, with L'Auberge Chez Francois & La Colline as the most welcoming and reliable. Do you agree, and have you another suggestion?

Phyllis Richman: GAby, who started several remarkable restaurants in DC, has retired.

L'Auberge Chez Francois and La Colline might not reach the pinnacles of cooking, but they bring steady and reliable pleasure year after year.

rosslyn: Phyllis, what do you do when you are fuller than a tick on a dog's belly and you still have more food to consume for a review? what is your trick to staying hungry!! I must know!!

Phyllis Richman: champagne helps. Or if that's not in order, seltzer. And a walk around the block, especially on a cold winter day.

Juneau, Alaska: How many questions don't you answer on these chats?

Phyllis Richman: Most, I'm afraid. I've generally gotten 150-200 and can only fit in 40-50. Today, I'm told, there are tons. I'm going to go on an extra half hour. So to those of you who must leave, I want to thank you for paying attention and hope you come back to enjoy my successor. To the rest, take a stretch, settle in, and let's continue for awhile.

Landover, MD.: Why are you retiring? What West African restaurants would you recommend in the Washington, D.C. metro area.

Phyllis Richman: I'm retiring because I want to cut down to one job - I've been writing books the past few years and planning to concentrate on them once I worked myself up to this big step. The more direct reason is that I've done this job way too long. I want to stay home m ore evenings, I want to choose where and what I eat, I want to be a "civilian." I want to once again go to theater, concerts, more movies, watch some TV, have more time for reading and walking and traveling.

It's been a long and hard decision. It is, after all, a great job. But every pleasure it offers I've had hundreds, thousands of times already. I always learn something, but not as much or with as much savor as I once did. It's time for someone new to do it, I think, and time for me to try new ways of life. It's poignant but very exciting for me.

Hanover Maryland: One of my most favorite columns by you was when you worked at Company Inkwell. When you went up to the table with the long haired hippy looking guy and he didn't request a drink. You thought, boy there goes my tip, but he proceeded to order a bottle of Dom. I've been a server and (of course) a customer and love to flip people out when they treat me like that. Four of us girls went to the Serbian Crown and they proceeded to stick us way in the back and got snooty service at best. We ignored them as we had a limo and were getting tipsy on flavored vodka and having fun. When we tipped him over 40% (we had all been in the restaurant business at one time or another)he came running after us thanking us profusely. I hope he learned HIS lesson!!! I'm dying to go to Nordstrom's or Tiffany's with my weekend sweats on and proceed to pay with 1,000 bills after getting the snooty service. Look forward to your book.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I loved your tale. I wrote the Company Inkwell story as soon as I became the Post's critic. I worked as a captain there for a month of weekends in order to gain more insight into the workings of a top French restaurant (I'd been a waiter, but not in a French restaurant). It was great fun, immensely hard work and enormously informative.

BTW, I forgot to answer about African restaurants, but I am not exactly current on them. Wait and ask my successor..

Downtown DC: At this point, do most of the chefs and restaurant owners in this town know you personally? And how successful has the disguising been?

Phyllis Richman: I was successful for the first 5-10 years; now I'm recognized at probably half the restaurants I visit.

Washington, DC: Best wishes for your retirement. Have you ever been confounded by the readers who refuse to think for themselves and accept critics' views as gospel truth? It always has amazed me that while all your reviews will be correct form your experience and viewpoint, individuals will have different experiences or preferences, but they somehow try to blame the restaurant or you for different experiences. I can say that I haven't always agreed with you on things; one notable was how you always effused so over Tara Thai which I thought was overpriced and underserviced, mediocre Thai food. I also dislike the cults of personality over chefs and owners; it's conspicuous consumption at its grandest. I've put the names; Roberto Donna, Ann Cashion, Nora Pouillin, and the Lauriol Plaza right up there with Elian Gonzalez and the Clintons as names I won't miss hearing about when they disappear from the news since they've all overstayed their undeserved 15 minutes.
On the other hand thanks for reminding us all to speak up and ask to be treated better and that it's right to ask the price of specials. I now make it a point to always ask the price if not told, even when I'm not interested in the special only because I feel justified in making them tell me.
As always, good critic is controversial.
Thanks and good luck.

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear your viewpoint. Yes, every diner should use his or her own senses and critical ability and not slavishly follow a critic. But don't dismiss great chefs just because they are famous or get a lot of press.

Rockville, MD: So, how do we find out when your successor will start chatting? Will a message be posted or what?

Have a great retirement!

Phyllis Richman: Watch the Post's restaurant website. I have no doubt you'll find it well heralded.

Burke VA: I would agree with spending years in the restaurant business before considering opening one - it's not the same as pulling off some successful dinner parties! Here's my question - After 15 or so years in restaurant management, I ended up in a writing job. My question is, how does someone break into the career of restaurant critic?

Phyllis Richman: The problem is that there are so few critics' jobs. And if critics are piggy like me and stay at those jobs more than 20 years, it's a fairly hopeless career goal. That said, it's still worth aiming for, in the meantime doing as much and as varied food writing as possible. You might even find out that you like other food writing more.

washingtonpost.com: For updates on Phyllis's successor to these discussions, keep checking www.washingtonpost.com/liveonline

Arlington VA: Farewell, Phyllis. You served us well. Question: we all know a bad review can be disastrous. On the flip side, are there any examples in your experience, where a good review may have been equally damaging? I'm thinking about neighborhood bistros not prepared for the power of your pen.

Good luck with your writing!

Phyllis Richman: The classic story is of Positano. In one week I reviewed it, the Food section wrote a story about it and the Maryland weekly section reviewed it. The pressure and the expectations eventually killed the restaurant - though it later reopened to a more calm environment.

Mike from Santa Cruz, CA: What's the one thing you will miss most once retire?

P.S.
Please tell you Banana Slug son I said hello and hope he is doing well.

Phyllis Richman: Once thing I already miss is the tacos el pastor from Tacos Moreno in Santa Cruz.

DC General Manager: During your career, what has been the most comical moment you have encountered while reviewing a restaurant?

Phyllis Richman: The waiter at Vincenzo who told me about all the food writers at the restaurant and, when I asked him how he knew who they were, looked at me and said, "Lady, I've been in this business for 10 years. I know them all."

Dupont Circle, DC: First, in response to SW DC, I have been delighted with the variety and accessibility with the types of restaurants you review. And I am a pretty frugal person - all the more reason to read your reviews - I want to get my money's worth!
Second, how many floppy hats and other disguise elements DO you own? Seems you'll be glad to be rid of them.

Phyllis Richman: I'm going to burn them. All two of them.

McLean, VA: Congratulations on your retirement!

Have you heard anything about how John Wabeck, formerly of New Heights, is faring at Brix in Napa?

Any chance you'll be getting out to Napa Valley in your retirement?

Phyllis Richman: I've heard one good report. In Nov. I teach at the Culinary Institute at Greystone in Napa Valley, so I'll get to try him then (on my own nickel).

DC General Manager: Believe it or not, any review, good or bad, brings in a crushing amount of business

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for telling us that. I'd always suspected something like that, those a restaurateur with a bad review is likely to complain that I killed the place.

Washington, DC: Dear Ms. Richman:

Thank you for many entertaining columns -- if it is impossible to eat at all the city's great restaurants at least we have been able to experience them through you. Congratulations on moving to the next stage of your careeer!

There is one question which begs asking, and that is how you got to see the men's room at Windows on the World. I look forward to your response...

Phyllis Richman: I've got to keep some trade secrets.

NE DC: Phyllis.

Have you ever had anyone sabotage your reviews? What I mean is, has anyone ever gotten word that you were coming to a restaurant to review it before you arrived?

Thanks for everything!!

Phyllis Richman: Some restaurants have thought they knew. And some I've never visited have insisted I was there. And of course, some restaurants I 've panned have insisted I never was actually there.

Columbia, MD: Any thoughts on Mr. Kinkead's efforts for independent owners vs. corporate chains. In Columbia chain restaurants seem to be the only choice and I can never understand why; lousy food and service, crowds, and prices not particularly cheap. Fortunately I work in Washington and have some choices during the week.

Phyllis Richman: I'm very glad to independent restaurateurs are starting to band together to try to secure some of the benefits of size and cooperative buying and sharing ideas that corporate restaurants chain restaurants already have. Absentee ownership rarely achieves the quality of on-site ownership.

Alexandria, Virginia: Please use this opportunity to reminisce just a little, if you can stand it.

I only moved to the area a little shy of 10 years ago. Your Post bio says you've been on the food beat for 23 years. _-Were-_ there any restaurants outside of hotels in DC before Nixon created so much work for law firms? What was it like then, and when did you notice it beginning to ramp up?

Thanks so much for your columns and chats!

Phyllis Richman: The Kennedy administration had a big effect on DC restaurants, but also restaurants everywhere have improved (well, they have sometimes grown worse at the same time).

DC: The comment about your full-length picture got me wondering...is Phyllis Richman your real name? I forgot that you've gone to lengths to keep your identity undercover.

Phyllis Richman: Sometime I'm no longer sure which is my real name. For 25 years I've had credit cards in various names and have been making reservations in other names.

College Park, MD: So, as a 23 year old college student who has avidly followed your reviews since I was about 9, and who has turned my interest in your writing into an interest in food writing in general, I just want to offer my sincere thanks to you, and wish you the best in your retirement.

My question to you is this: how does one become a restaurant critic? Not necessarily at the Post (although that would be ideal) but just in general?

Again, thanks for all the years.

Phyllis Richman: Thank you. I'd say you should just start writing about food - any kind, anywhere - and only later decide whether restaurant writing is the kind of food writing you like best.

DC: WoW I can't believe I've been in DC this long. I started reading Donald Dresden's reviews when I was in college. and now you're leaving. I've really enjoyed your reviews. There always seemed to be something for everyone. I wish you the best and look forward to your next book.

Of all the restaurants in DC, I never experienced a more unusual concept than the 4 George in the Georgetown Inn.

Best of luck.

Phyllis Richman: Even I can hardly remember that. Thanks.

Arlington, VA: Aloha, Phyllis!

Are you going on vacation to celebrate your retirement? Where would you go and what would you eat?

Thanks for everything!

Phyllis Richman: Someday I want to eat in Thailand.

Washington, DC: So sad-making! I was going to try to cheer myself up with dinner at Lespinasse, but then I remembered that you said their chef has left. Have they found anyone?

Actually, I'm not even sure that dinner there could cheer me up. Who can possibly be the font of knowledge and experience that you are? I don't want to have to wait another 23 years for that to happen.

Phyllis Richman: I think you'll only have to wait about 2 months. The Post h as great candidates.

Washington, DC: Dear Phyllis: Thank you for all of your help over the past few years in bringing this 25-year-old into the DC-cuisine scene. You will be missed. My last question for you is something I have wondered many times. Your reviews are very powerful and can significantly alter the public's impressions of a restaurant, making your job somewhat dangerous in dining circles. Has any restaurant owner or GM ever tried to bribe you during the past 23 years? Have you ever had any face-to-face altercations with such people?

Phyllis Richman: Nothing tempting. Bribes, I mean. Nor have any of the threats come to anything but a few minutes' nervousness.

cheverly, md: Hi Phyllis, we'll really miss you. How do you see the restaurant scene in Prince George's County coming along? A friend and I just had the most delicious crab cakes, bar none, at the Calvert House Inn in Riverdale. Ever hopeful in Cheverly.

Phyllis Richman: I think that PG County - my native land, after all - will eventually catch on. But the signs of it are still slim.

Silver Spring, MD: Farewell, Phyllis.

But before you go, what happened to the Malaysian satay place in Wheaton? I went looking for it this weekend, and it's gone! I think it was on University Boulevard near Wheaton Plaza.

Have a delicious life...

Phyllis Richman: It's opened on M St. downtown, and I'm reviewing it soon.

washington, dc: Do you agree that food is only food and while good cooking is an art (and surely good writing is also an art), some people are getting a bit melodramatic this afternoon? The area will miss good talent and intriguing personality, but some of these comments would scare me tremendously, were I you.

Phyllis Richman: I can take it.

Tucson, AZ: Dear Phyllis,

Thank you for so much - your reviews, your witty repartee online, and your novels (with more coming - you have promised!)

Here's an idea for you. You are in the rare position of NEVER having to PAY for a restaurant meal now that your WP expense account will be discontinued. All you have to do is let us (all over the world) know when you will be in our venues and I GUARANTEE you will have an appreciative
host(s) at the ready! The downsize is that your companion(s) for the meal is/are pre-selected but I also GUARANTEE the larger
percentage will provide interesting conversation that you will enjoy.

First invitation - Tucson; be my guest.

Best wishes in all the future holds and thanks again.

Betty Hengemuehler in Tucson

Phyllis Richman: So maybe I won't have to cook after all. Thanks, Betty.

Falls Church, Virginia: Phyllis - First off, I'm really going to miss your reviews. My husband and I have found a number of great restaurants because of you. We have also been pleased when you've discovered some of our local treasures, until the crowds arrived following your review. Do you think Washington will ever be a place that's passionate about good food? So many restaurants are more style than substance, yet they are consistently busy. Does the commoditization of restaurants worry you? In other words, the proliferation of chains and theme restaurants to the detriment of local talent, ingredients and charm?

Phyllis Richman: Washington has become too chain-bound lately, but there are always those talented independents who take the chance and open a new place.

Reston, VA: Hi Phyllis,

Like Ruth Riechl of past New York Times's fame, you leave us at the peak of your skills and as well, off to better things. It's been a pleasure to have had your reviews in the Post. Even though, I may not agreed with all of your reviews, I appreciated the ones I didn't more than the ones I did. However, this isn't either rocket science either! You made it a lot fun to stay around a little longer at lunchtime on Thursdays and that will be surely missed.

My last question to you, if you could have dinner with the President (POTUS), other than at the White House, in DC proper, where would go?

Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: I've been trying for years to take the Pres to Robertson's Crab House in southern Md.

Washington, D.C.: Based on your years of seeing restaurants come and go, name 5 that you believe have such an enduring quality and talented staff that they will remain both good and popular 25 years from now.

Phyllis Richman: The problem is that they'd need to have very young chefs to stay viable for 25 years. Among chefs in the 30-ish range, I'd expect Jose Andres and John Cochran to stay at the top for that long.

Wahington, DC: Of all the restaurants and meals that you have sampled as the Washington Post food critic, is there one meal, one chef, and one restaurant that you could look back to and say that they were the best.

Phyllis Richman: Many, many. My 50th birthday dinner at the Inn at Little Washington, dinner of ortolans, etc at Jean Louis. . .for a start.

DC Foodie: I have heard folks say that -for better and for worse- your critical input has shaped the DC restaurant scene over the last ten+ years. What do you think might change when a different voice starts speaking for the Post?

Phyllis Richman: You'll begin to hear about different restaurants, those that happened not to have been on my radar.

Alexandria, Va.: Dear Phyllis, Are there any specific restaurants that you wish would come back from the grave for an encore ?

Phyllis Richman:
anybody else remember T. Gregory???

South Riding, VA: Phyllis, its been fun. I have been reading your work religiously for years and while I haven't always agreed with you, I had to acknowledge that you were out their in the trenches for all of us who love to eat and love to eat out. Here is my question, when is the book and movie of your life ?

Phyllis Richman: Just the question to end this. Actually, the movie of my life came out in 1956. .It was called "Three Brave Men", and it had a scene of me reading an essay I wrote for a July 4 contest. My first writing that found an audience.

The rest has all been downhill.

Thanks to all of you who have tuned in here. I'd better end this - reluctant as I am at the moment - before I get the hook.

I expect you'll be thrilled and impressed with my successor. I hope you all have a good time together. I'll be watching, to see that you all behave.

Well, goodbye. I think the sun is coming out. Time for lunch

washingtonpost.com: Thanks to all who participated today and for the last two years. To access transcripts of Phyllis's discussions from the past, you may go to: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/liveonline/food/richman.htm