| The Garden Plot
Hosted by Adrienne Cook
Washington Post Garden Columnist
Thursday, Aug. 15, 2002; 11 a.m. EDT Whether you remember her as the "Backyard Gardener" or know her as the "Gourmet Gardener," Post columnist Adrienne Cook is one of the area's authorities on organic horticulture. Cook will be online to field questions, concerns and comments regarding gardening. A self-proclaimed "practical gardener," Cook's love for horticulture stems from her roots, starting with a grandfather who bred day lilies and camellias. An organic gardener, Cook has been putting her heart and soul into the soil for 30 years. In her job as a Post columnist, Cook has been offering "real and simple solutions for basic problems" for the past 20 years. Practicing what she preaches, Cook balances her time between her numerous backyard projects, including a batch of perennials, fruit trees, a cut-flower garden and a burgeoning green house. Currently she is growing apples, cherries, apricots and various berries, but her favorites are the veggies: peas, tomatoes and herbs. Over the years Cook has contributed her green-thumb knowledge to several publications, including Organic Gardening, Good Housekeeping, Southern Accents and Fine Gardening. The transcript follows A Peachy Summer: Good morning. In May I moved into a townhouse in Northern Virginia. There is a great peach tree in the front yard. The fruit coming from that tree are amazing! So sweet and fragrant. Now my question: The fruit burdened the branches quite a lot. Will the branches bounce back? Do I need to prune this tree? When? I would hate to waste $$ on a professional consultation, but it may be worth it. What a great tree! Adrienne Cook: How terrific for you! If the tree is bearing that well, it undoubtedly has been well-cared for. Pruning fruit trees is important, but for mature ones it consists primarily of removing dead branches and keeping the overall tree "open," permitting good air circulation and plenty of sunshine to penetrate where the fruit is. Generally, the branches will withstand even heavy production, if the tree is in good health. For an excellent book on the subject -- and, no, I don't think you need "professional" help at this stage -- look up Lee Reich's "The Pruning Book."
Takoma Park, Md.: One of the crepe myrtles at my new house still has the remnants of dead, brown flowers on it from LAST year in addition to this years blooms. Am I supposed to trim the flowers off after they fade? Adrienne Cook: If you want, for appearance only. Old blooms will not effect the health of the tree.
Herb Garden: Hope you can help: I've always thought that you should pluck the flowers on herbs (basil, dill, etc.) before they bloom. Is this the case for all herbs? Thanks for the help. Adrienne Cook: The reason to pluck the flowers on annual herbs, including basil, dill and cilantro, is to try to encourage them to continue producing the foliage that is their most desirable trait. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Dill and cilantro, for example, will sooner rather than later "bolt," which is the process of getting tall and stemmy and producing flowers, no matter what you do. Basil, however, can be cajoled into bushiness for a much longer period of time, primarily by clipping back the blooms just as they are formed and also just by using the foliage -- snip, snip snip. Perennial herbs, which stay in the ground year after year and come back each spring (sage, thyme, rosemary, tarragon, oregano, mint, are less inclined to the follow the habit of the annual herbs, so clipping back their blooms does not really accomplish much. In fact, many perennial herbs are as valuable for their blooms as for their foliage. You could say the same about dill, for that matter. Also, remember that when cilantro goes to seed, those are called coriander. In my own garden, I let dill bloom because I like the look of it; I let one cilantro plant bloom to get the seed and I pull the rest, resowing immediately; I let all my perennial herbs bloom because I like those too. And I wack back basil severely and plant multiple pots of it at different times during the summer to maintain adequate supplies.
Bethesda, Md.: Adrienne
Thanks so much for your wonderful chats. I have a dwarf Japanese maple that's quite mature and about 4.5' tall in need of pruning. Is this a good time to do it, or should I wait for the fall? Thanks again. Adrienne Cook: You are so welcome! Why do you think your dwarf maple needs pruning? They usually don't. If you must prune, wait until the weather cools down and we get some rain. Stressing trees right now is not a good idea, plus the extra shade the tree is getting will only benefit it.
Clarksburg...NOT GERMANTOWN BY GUM!!!: Adrienne, thanks for the enlightenment. One of our gardens (10' x 6') has a young 8' redbud tree at one end and a 5' Japanese Maple at the other. We've tried many flowers in the garden (begonias, petunias, red hot pokers), but only Dusty Millers survive. Can you recommend something that might survive that would add color? Second, I have a number of brussels sprouts plants that have toppled over but are still growing. I tried supporting them with tomato cages to no avail. Why don't my sprouts look like the pictures I see of 5' sprout plants growing upright? Adrienne Cook: I'm surprised you can't get perennials to grow under the relatively light shade of the redbud. Under our redbuds, we have phlox -- the tall kind, not the groundcover, asters, boltonia, daylilies. You could also try some tough shade lovers such as columbine and bleeding heart. On the brussels sprouts, next year when you put in your seedlings, bury the stems as far down as possible, leaving only the top leaves above the soil line. Also, keep the soil moist but no wet. These top-heavy, thick-stemmed plants need a great root system to prevent them from toppling over and that's what you what to encourage.
Dwarf Japanese Maple Question: Adrienne
Thanks for your advice regarding my maple. Basically, I like the trim, rounded look of dwarf maples, so much of my motivation in wanting to prune is based on aesthetics. There are several branches on the tree that are sticking out, and I wanted to bring the tree back into its previous form. Also, I have some hostas, petunias, and other flowers around the tree (which is just below the kitchen window) and wanted to ensure that they continue to get adequate light and water. Adrienne Cook: I'll buy that.
Alexandria, Va.: I grew tomatoes on my deck this year in large pots. One of the plants is a different variety (can't think of the name) but it's having problems. The lower leaves are drying up & the tomatoes themselves split when they start to turn red. Across the split a while network of fibers grows. It looks like a scar. What's up with my tomato plant? I water all of the plants the same and only this one is having problems. Adrienne Cook: It's a variety that doesn't take well to this heat and humidity. The lower leaves drying up is actually a common problem to tomatoes in our area at this time of the year and normally does not affect production, which is set much earlier, well before the drying-leaf condition. However, you have more than one problem on this vine; the splitting and caking of the fruit tells me that the variety is one that should be maturing in cooler weather. I'm guessing you got a n early-maturing variety and it was planted a little late, so it's not enjoying the conditions in which it is supposed to be maturing. What can you do? If you don't like the looks of it and you aren't getting any fruit off of it, pull it. Or you can wait and see if it bounces back later when it cools down. If you want to take that chance, just verify for yourself that it has plenty of green tomatoes on it that may be ripening in a few weeks, when, hopefully, we'll have cooler temps.
Oakton, Va.: What should you do when your soil gets bacteria? My tomatoes got bacterial speck. What should I do to prepare my soil for fall or should I wait until next year? Adrienne Cook: Two things. Try different varieties than the ones you grew this year and don't plant them in the same place.
Burke, Va.: Good Morning -- we did some landscaping in September of last year which included two crepe myrtle trees. Neither one has bloomed this year. Are they still getting established and will they bloom next year? Adrienne Cook: Yes and perhaps. They may take three or four years before they bloom.
Washington, D.C.: My husband and I are lucky enough to own a plot in a community garden in NW DC. We are growing a bunch of tomatoes, peppers, onions, basil, banana peppers, lettuce etc etc. My questions is about cantaloupe. We planted some seeds at the beginning of the summer and they started to grow. We didn't know how the plant was to grow (up or out) so we put a fence in and made the plant grow up the fence. We had one really good cantaloupe out of it. The rest started to grow, but stopped after getting to about half the size it should be. Any reason why? The plant is almost dead now. I'm assuming from the scorching heat? Are neighbors commend us on having grown one. When is the best time to grow this plant? One more question - for fall spinach, when should we plant seeds? Adrienne Cook: Cantaloupes are temperamental. They love heat, they don't love heat. They want to be in the ground by May 1, they hate May 1 and want to in by June 1. They love water, they hate water. Your neighbor gardeners are right -- you are to be congratulated for getting one ripe cantaloupe. I have been growing cantaloupes for 15 years and I still don't know what the secret is. Some years they're great, others, they're a disaster. This year I think they are doomed mainly because of the incredible populations of squash bugs out, probably because of the drought. I've lost all my squash, cucumbers and cantaloupe and even my pumpkins are looking pretty bad. You did well.
Ashburn, Va.: Help! My small townhouse front yard is a disaster -- I have put down grass seed, topsoil, then straw, watered every other day to no avail. Is it possible for insects to be killing the new grass? Adrienne Cook: Possible, but more likely it's the killer heat. The best time to be planting grass is in the spring and fall. If the seeds sprouted, all it takes is a couple of hours of intense sun to dry the soil surface and fry the sprouts. Another possibility is that you've got the sequence wrong and the seeds did not sprout. It should be topsoil, then seeds, then straw. The seeds need to be on the surface to sprout. If you think that's the problem, in September or October, remove the straw, reseed and then put the straw back on. Your success will be more assured if you wait until we've had several inches of rain.
Annapolis, Md.: I'd like to trellis vines over the top of my deck. I have a trumpet vine but have considered grape vines. What type of vines would you recommend? It's full sun. My back yard used to be a horse farm. What do you think of my idea of a "winery?" If yes, what type of grape would you plant? washingtonpost.com: Information about growing wine grapes in Virginia Adrienne Cook: That is a HUGE question with a complicated answer. I hope you visit the suggested site for more info. Good luck.
Different Takoma Park, Md.: My cone flowers have pretty much died off from lack of my watering. I've been using the soaking hose for about two weeks now. Can I cut them back or should the seed heads remain (I know the goldfinches love them). Also, I've heard fall is great for planting shrubs, but what about the average perennial?
Thanks! Adrienne Cook: I like to leave cone flower just as it is because they provide fall and winter interest. Also, yes, the finches love them. Fall is a splendid time to plant many perennials. However, this may not be the year for it because of the extremely dry soil, which will doom a new plant before it can get established. Keep an eye on the rainfall and if we get replenished in the next weeks, you could take a chance. Otherwise, wait until spring.
Montgomery County, Md.: Adrienne
Last spring we spread compost we'd fastidiously collected all year, not knowing that many active pepper seeds were in it. So now we have wonderfully huge pepper plants in the most improbable places giving nice, good-sized peppers. We're just going with it, keeping them all except for those overwhelming plants we love. Just thought you'd enjoy the story. Adrienne Cook: A weed is merely a plant in the wrong place....
Courthouse, Arlington, Va.: Hi, I'm new to gardening, but am enjoying it greatly. My question is about basil. At the farmers market this past weekend, I bought a beautiful, big basil plant, which I now keep on my balcony. The woman said that they like heat and to keep it moist, but not soak it. However, every day when I come home, I have to give it a lot of water because it's wilted. I don't want to oversoak it like the woman said, but in this kind of heat, is it necessary to soak the plants? Could I likely kill it that way. The plant gets about 4 hours of direct sun. Thanks Adrienne Cook: Your basil needs a larger container. If it wilts daily even though you are watering, it is probably root bound, meaning that the roots have filled the container and there is no more soil, and therefore no reservoir of water. Get a larger pot, a bag each of compost and potting soil and mix them in equal parts. Carefully remove your basil plant from its current pot and place in the large one; add your soil mix until the pot is filled and the plant is firmly in place. Soak the whole thing until the water streams out of it, then drain it and put it back out. The plant should go three or four days between waterings.
Vienna, Va.: When should fall crops be started this year? I usually try for mid/late August to start, but it's SO HOT. So when do we put in the peas and spinach? Thanks for the fine advice. Adrienne Cook: Get your peas in right away, if your soil is moist. Spinach can go in anytime during the next four weeks. Lettuce too. Beans, carrots, beets, fennel should go in now. Use a soaker hose to water the soil before you sow your seeds and keep the area evenly moist so they'll germinate.
Shaw, Washington, D.C.: Hello, I've got two small rosemary bushes (about 6" tall) in pots that sit in full sun and get watered regularly. They've lasted me through DC summers and snowy winters without much maintenance. All of a sudden, the leaves are shrivelling up! Too much heat, too little water? Any ideas? Thanks! Adrienne Cook: Too little water. They may need larger pots (see above).
Washington, D.C.: How about fall spinach - when should this be planted? Thanks! Adrienne Cook: Through September; under glass, though October.
Alexandria, Va.: Hello, Adrienne. I so wanted a real garden this year, but life intervened and I never put one in. Do you have any favorite things to plant at this time of year so I don't miss out altogether? (annuals, a veggie or two, something nice for fall other than mums?)
Adrienne Cook: Get in spring-flowering bulbs like daffodils, grape hyacinth, crocus, tulips. Pansies are a must for fall color. Mums are good. Lots of veggies, including lettuce, spinach, mustard, broccoli, beans, carrots, radishes, fennel, cilantro, parsley. Basil in pots.
Fairfax, Va.: Adrienne -- I sure hope you do lawns! Last spring we reseeded a section of our lawn. Unfortunately, we also managed to inherit a whole lot of weeds and that section has pretty much died back (drought? disease?). On the weekend of the 24th (just over a week away), I'll be dethatching and using one of those machines that cuts the soil and inserts grass seed. What should I do this weekend to prepare? Roundup the weeds? The whole area? Miracle Grow to give the grass a boost? Water like crazy? Help -- I know I'll be a tad early, but I have to do it that weekend. Adrienne Cook: A tad indeed. You can't wait until September or until the ground is moist again? I think you're going to waste a lot of time and some money by doing this this weekend. The best way to do a lawn is to start by eliminating the weeds with Roundup, wait two weeks, add a ton of compost -- you should be able to get a truckload delivered for about $50 or go to one of the Fairfax recycling compost stains and haul it yourself. Work that into the top of the soil with a rake -- you really don't need a tiller. Then reseed and top it with marsh grass, which does not contain weed seeds. Do this when it is cool and there is plenty of incoming moisture over several months -- like from rain and snow, so fall is best. Avoid fast-acting fertilizers like Miracle Gro; stick with slow, easy on roots types, like organics and, mainly compost. But soil preparation is the key, not jumping the gun and rushing off to get expensive rental equipment. Dethatching is what you do to a lawn that is overgrown, too dense, and has never been properly established in good soil. A lawn that is grown is well-prepared soil never needs de-thatching.
Speaking of weeds: Are there any that you wouldn't put into a compost heap? I've got a rather largish sized plot that's supposed to be rhododendrons and wild flowers, but is more bindweed than anything else. I'm worried that if I get bindweed roots in the compost, they'll survive and take root elsewhere. Adrienne Cook: You're right, if it's loaded with seed pods. Bindweed is a survivor; I'd bag them and get rid of them in the landfill, where they shouldn't survive.
Fairfax, Va.: Hello. We recently moved back into our townhouse after several years abroad. The front yard is a small (10 ft. by 10 ft.) plot of land with a dead purple plum tree. The local nursery's tree expert says most townhouse developments have inappropriate trees packed into these little bits of land, and they recommended we replace our dear departed plum with a serviceberry. Do you agree, or have other suggestions? Also, should we have our soil checked for tree-lethal conditions? Thanks! Adrienne Cook: Serviceberry is an excellent choice; I like it especially because it is a VA native. Definitely get a soil test; you'll need it for just about any plant, from lawn to tree.
Gotta go. Thanks for all the great questions. Higgins will be in next week, same time, etc.
RE: grape vines over deck: We just visited Longwood a couple of weeks ago and asked the same question there. One of the staff there told us that grapes over a deck or patio is a messy deal. You have to spray them regularly if you want them to stay healthy, which means chemicals dripping on you, and then you've got the problem of birds and bird droppings and then ripe fruit falling, making for a messy deck. She recommend clematis, saying that we could have pretty good coverage in 2 or 3 years if we trained and pruned correctly. Adrienne Cook: FYI
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