| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2002; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. EDT to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Tom Sietsema: Good morning, all. I will be breakfasting next Wednesday in Vancouver, B.C., about the time this chat normally is in progress.
In other words, we won’t have a discussion Sept. 25. But I’ll be back to field the usual queries and comments the following Wednesday, Oct. 2.
Let’s get started a few minutes early today, so I can squeeze in more give ‘n’ take.
Washington, D.C.: Having a business dinner at Filomena in Georgetown. "They" chose it, I've never been. What can I expect? Tom Sietsema: Oh dear. It's not to late to make alternative plans, is it?
Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom: Thanks for all the helpful reviews, and particularly for eating at lousy places in order to guide us to the good ones! Big news. My sister got her play accepted by a little one-act festival in New York, so we'll be going up to see it and celebrate a bit. I looked in the Postcards, but didn't see this issue addressed specifically. Any recommendations for the Times Square area, with pre- or post-theatre options? We're looking more for ethnic, bistro, home-style Italian, or a Cashion's-like place, rather than Citronelle or Galileo. Thanks much. Keep chowin'. Tom Sietsema: What fun! Becco, the bustling pasta joint on W. 46th might be a good idea. Even better is the more formal (but not stuffy) Esca, a sunny Italian seafood restaurant, on W. 43rd. And despite its touristy location in Rockefeller Plaza, I continue to hear nice things about Sea Grill, specializing in the obvious.
Cuban food in the D.C. Area Cont'd.: Dear Tom -- Last week you replied to my question about Cubano's and La Cantinita's Havana Cafe. You said you hadn't yet made it to the latter in Clarendon/Arlington. The food at La Cantinita is very good, though it has a very limited menu. Try the "ropa vieja" or "picadillo." One of the things I like best about Cubano's is its extensive menu; the "pulpeta" is great there. Two bits of advice for when you make it there: 1. Don't bother with the flan; not very tasty and far too watery. 2. Don't try ordering a Mojito; they never have the mint or yerba buena so can never make one. However, the Cuba Libres can be poured all night. Cheers and good eating. Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the useful advice. To get the best from a place, it's just as helpful to know where NOT to go on the menu.
So on to Havana Cafe -- hold the custard and mint and rum.
Potomac, Md.: Not exactly a "restaurant" question -- but food service. Having a wedding soon and hearing conflicting advise about gratuities for catering staff. What is the recommendation or the rule? Thanks. Really enjoy these discussions. Tom Sietsema: The last time I had something catered, the gratuity was built into the cost of the party (my preference). Any caterers or users of such services want to weigh in on the subject?
Aspen Hills, Md.: We have a houseguest who's a strict vegetarian. Any suggestions for moderately-priced restaurants with vegetarian dishes for them, but also other items for the rest of us, in Montgomery County or D.C.? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Try Jaleo or Heritage India, both in Bethesda (and with branches in the District, for that matter).
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, My dad, a huge beef fan, is coming into town and wants me to take him out for a good steak. He could care less about the restaurant's decor or whether or not piano music is wafting in the background -- he certainly does not care if the waiters are wearing tuxes. He just wants a high quality steak, the bigger the better, and maybe some buttery mashed potatoes or cheesey onion soup. Got any suggestions for a place that will "wow" him and convince him that his little girl from the country knows a thing or two about high-class city fare? Thanks for any suggestions! Tom Sietsema: On the short list: Nick & Stef's and Capital Grille.
Check out my guide to steak houses, which ran last year, for additional suggestions.
re: Nervous about blind date: Tom, I had a blind date last week and you'd advised me to try Montmartre. We went and had a wonderful, romantic time. Thank you. You'll be invited to our wedding. Tom Sietsema: Wow! You seem not to have wasted any time getting to the heart of things. Good work (and good luck).
Washington, D.C.: I have the opportunity to go anywhere in D.C. (except Inn at Little Washington) for a dinner for two paid for by my work. I was thinking about trying Palena since I have heard such good things. Where would you go with such an opportunity? Tom Sietsema: What a generous employer you have! Palena would be high on my list, but I'd put Michel Richard Citronelle in Georgetown or Maestro in McLean above that Cleveland Park destination if someone else were picking up the tab. (Both are more expensive.)
Washington, D.C.: Any scoop on Local 16? Tom Sietsema: The restaurant, on the corner of 16th & U streets in the city, is likely to open next week. The idea is ingredients purchased from local farmers; the interior was done by the folks who gave us Greenwood. I see there's an outdoor deck atop the place, too.
Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C.: Tom: Any word about Zolas Restaurant in the new Spy Museum? Tom Sietsema: I just finished writing my review of Zola. It runs October 6 in the Magazine.
Washington, D.C.: Hello. I've never posted a question/comment before but I've had two recent dining experiences (one good, one bad) that I think are worth sharing. Good news first: Cafe Atlantico Latino Dim-Sum. The food was excellent and the concept of sampling myriad dishes at a fixed price worked wonderfully. The most impressive aspect, however, was the service. The manager greeted us, explained how the Dim-Sum worked at Cafe Atlantico, accommodating our seating request, checked up on us periodically (and unobtrusively) and truly enhanced the experience. The wait staff was also extremely helpful, even offering to move us to another seat (we were outside) when the sun's glare focused on our table. Now for the bad news: Wazuri. I hesitated to mention this, but I have been disturbed by the experience since it happened about a month ago. We had six people with reservations to dine at Wazuri on a Friday night. Everything was great -- the manager was friendly and accommodating as we waited for the entire party to show up, seating us at the bar and holding a rooftop table for us. The food was excellent and the service, albeit slow (but we had been warned and were in no rush) was fine. The problem arose when the bill came. We ran up a hefty bill, several bottles of wine, drinks, appetizers, entrees, etc. and there was an automatic gratuity added in. The menu said for parties of X or more a 15 percent gratuity would be added. Luckily, one of the non-mathematically challenged at our table realized that the waitress had added 20 percent to the hefty bill. Although we would have likely left 20 percent anyway, I confronted the waitress discreetly about the tip. I am not joking when I say this, but she said that despite the language on the menu and without telling the customers "they add 20 percent gratuity all the time." Even more shocking, she made a discriminatory comment about the clientele, saying that certain ethnicities are bad tippers, so the waiters take things into their own hands. I told her that if this practice was condoned by the management, she obviously wouldn't mind me talking to the manager. She quickly tried to avert that by offering to take the tip off, but when I persisted, in a huff, she pointed me to the manager. I explained to the manager what happened and said I still would leave the tip, as every other part of the dinner was great. The manager seemed shocked and offered a sincere apology. My intention was to bring this to his attention so that one waiter doesn't ruin the reputation of an otherwise great restaurant. My intention in sharing this with you and your readers is that if for some reason the management did not address the problem (i.e., firing that waitress and clearly explaining the policy to the rest of the waitstaff) I hope that others will raise the issue, as it leave a nasty black eye on what seems to be a good place. I apologize for the long comment but hope that you will be able to convey these sentiments to your readers. Thank you. Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your detailed missive. I bet your concern becomes a topic at restaurant staff meetings around town this week.
My complaints from readers suggest that nothing can sour an evening out quite as much as diners feeling taken advantage of.
Chicago, Ill.: Hi Tom, What is your opinion of Two Quail? It is highly recommended by family members for a romantic anniversary dinner, but I would like an expert opinion as well. Tom Sietsema: It wouldn't be on my list of romantic venues (unless, that is, your taste runs to interiors designed by Auntie Mame and grandma working in conjunction).
Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom, I have an Italian relative coming into town (from Italy) -- any ideas of a "real" Italian restaurant I can take her to? Willing to go to Baltimore's little italy if that helps. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: I never understand why people from foreign places would want to eat the cooking of their homeland away from home, but .... you didn't ask that question.
Honestly, I haven't found in B'more what you're looking for. Here in the city, you can certainly find "real" Italian cooking at Galileo, Tosca, Al Tiramisu, Obelisk and other restaurants.
Alexandria, Va.: Tom, I'm confused! Now you're recommending Citronelle, but if I remember correctly just a few weeks ago you panned it for being over-priced and not that great. This was in the context of a reader asking something like what are the most over-hyped restaurants around, and you gave a list of three, including Citronelle. So what gives, is it really top of the list or is it over-hyped? Tom Sietsema: A guy can change his mind, can't he?
The problem is, some of the best places to eat in Washington are less for their service. It's really a shame. I think Citronelle has world-class food and a dining room staff that does a good but not always great job of delivering that food. But I can say that about a lot of places (and have).
Bottom line: Go to Citronelle, which appears to be improving its (service) record.
Foreign food: Hey, Tom, I like eating the occasional American dish when I'm abroad. While it can be kind of neat to see what another country does to our style of food, if you're staying for a protracted period -- even three weeks -- a familiar taste does a lot to stave off the homesickness. And McDonald's in India was just bloody fascinating. Tom Sietsema: You make a good point. I think a lot of us have done just that on longer stays abroad. (You can get a beer with your McDee's burger in Munich, I can vouch.)
But still, with so many worthwhile places to eat in a world capital, I'd be inclined to send an Italian guest somewhere other than an Italian venue.
Washington, D.C.: Just to let you know Tom, Italian people usually eat only good food, so here you are. Tom Sietsema: I'm not sure what your point is? I do believe, though, that it is harder to find bad food in Italy than just about any other foreign country, in my experience.
Springfield, Va.: Tom, do you ever read stuff by other food writers, and do you have any favorites? Tom Sietsema: All the time. I'd buy Gourmet just for Ruth Reichl's editor's note alone. And I love re-reading M.F.K. Fisher's evocative prose. Brett Anderson, who used to pen restaurant reviews for Washington's City Paper, is a treat to read, too. (He now writes in New Orleans.) Those are just a few of the names I admire.
Defending Myself -- Arlington, Va.: I suggested taking the Italian guest to a non-Italian meal -- certainly seems more interesting to me. But she is over 80 and coming to see a loved one who is very ill and wanted Italian -- could you say no to that? Tom Sietsema: Ah, you left out some very important details! Take her to Al Tiramisu. The waiters alone will cheer her up.
Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
I'll be celebrating a birthday next week with a group of friends (six 20-something women). I'd like to have dinner someplace with a lively atmosphere and tasty food, but without bank-breaking prices. I'm thinking Cafe Atlantico or Bacchus (I've not been to either one). What's your choice? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Café Atlantico is between chefs right now, so I’d hold off on the place for the moment. Bacchus is a modest pleasure. You might try Gabriel for something livelier and even more delicious, though (like Atlantico, the food is upscale Latin American).
Beer at McD's: Is it a good beer? Or is it the McD's version of beer? Tom Sietsema: Okay, okay, I was 17 at the time. So ANY beer is going to taste good, ja?
Actually, the beer was local and refreshing, as I recall.
Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Tom, why do your reviews vary sooo greatly from those in the Washingtonian? I don't know who to believe (but I do know they give some of my least favorite places favorable reviews). Do standards vary THAT much? Tom Sietsema: I think you've just answered your own question there.
With any form of criticism, I tend to follow reviewers whose taste most closely matches mine -- and tastes vary, of course.
Washington, D.C.: "Go to Citronelle, which appears to be improving its (service) record." Tom: I hope you are referring to the period since last Saturday (9/14) because I dined there that night and was subjected to the same contemptuous service I have come to despise over the years (fortunately it was on someone else's tab). Moreover, at the next table, a couple attempting to enjoy their anniversary were treated so miserably by the staff that I overheard the husband (who didn't appear to be a brawler) telling his wife that he was going to punch out their waiter who frequently stood smirking by their table but refused to acknowledge their requests for attention while making rude comments about them within earshot. She convinced him that spending the night in jail would not be a fitting way to spend their 15th anniversary. Citronelle is still the same place it always was, and I would seriously think twice about subjecting diners to such mistreatment. Tom Sietsema: Michel, are you tuned in?
Chipotle = McDonald's?: Tom, My friends and I are wondering if you could confirm or dispel a rumor we've been hearing lately: that McDonald's owns Chipotle. Is this true? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: It’s true. The fast food burger company is using the burrito and taco purveyor, which it acquired three years ago, to boost its sales growth.
Expect to see a lot more Chipotle outlets down the road.
Dutch Dining (Arlington, Va.): Since you are the fountain of all D.C. restaurant information, I thought I would try you with this question. (If you fail me I may have to try calling the Dutch Embassy.) I read the New York Times review of Amsterdam restaurants this past weekend, and although the story largely mentioned Mediterranean-influenced spots, it got me wondering whether the D.C. area has any good restaurants to sample rijsttafel (the Indonesian/Dutch rice table). Can you or the fellow chatters recommend a place? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Last I checked, both Sabang in Wheaton and Satay Sarinah in Alexandria offer that savory feast of dishes.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
My parents are coming into town this weekend and I'd like to take them to dinner somewhere in Adams Morgan. I'm a fan of Cashion's but I'd like to try something new. I was thinking Little Fountain Cafe. Would this be a good bet for dinner and catch up? Thanks so much! Tom Sietsema: Good choice. I very much like its intimate atmosphere and gently homey menu.
Cuban food in Arlington, Va.: Hi, Tom -- Just wanted to pass along the sad news that La Cantinita/Havana Cafe in Clarendon was a victim of 9-11. As a long-time customer, I got a letter from the owners earlier this summer that they were closing. They have a defense agency in their building, which closed the parking garage, removed lots of street parking, and barricaded the restaurant's plaza with heavy planters. Their business plummeted, and the 9-11-related loans for impacted businesses were for National Airport ones only. They decided to close rather than take out a third mortgage to finance a move. Tom Sietsema: How unfortunate. Thanks for bringing us up to date.
Vienna, Va.: Tom, just curious to know if you have been to Le Tarbouche and what your thoughts are on their food and atmosphere. Tom Sietsema: I like the icy blue atmosphere in the main dining room and the first courses on the French-Lebanese menu have been interesting and delicious.
Fellow Georgetown Grad in Rosslyn, Va.: Hi Tom, thanks for the chats, they always make Wednesdays more interesting around here. The dreaded birthday question -- where to take someone special for her 30th? I like the atmosphere and food at Al Tiramisu but am looking for something a bit more dynamic, new or on the edge and let's face it -- impressive. In the similar price range please and any type of food will work. We both have a pretty open mind when it comes to food. Also, I want to keep it in the D.C. area. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Here’s my recipe for a hip evening out: cocktails at Zola followed by dinner at 15 ria, just a short cab ride away.
Brunch?: Need a nice place for brunch that won't break the bank. One friend recommended Georgia Brown's. Your thoughts? DC would be preferred as would non-hotel restaurants. Thanks in advance! Tom Sietsema: Don't be so quick to dismiss hotel restaurants. Some of the most interesting food in town is appearing in some of the newer dining rooms.
Brunch? Gabriel gets my vote.
Mark: Tom Sietsema: Michel, are you tuned in? I'm tuned in. Tom, I find these anonymous attacks hard to believe. Furthermore, this seems to be the same person who always chimes in with a vicious put-down. Are people really so meek that they would actually sit there and take this alleged kind of abuse? I don't think so. I know I wouldn't. Plus, I know all our waiters very well. I can't imagine who they are talking about.
This is just my opinion.
Mark Slater Tom Sietsema: Mark, the sommelier at Citronelle, raises a good point.
Posters here get to remain anonymous (unlike in my Ask Tom column, where I insist on printing names of the people who write in).
Participants in this forum should be aware that competitors, flaks, and a wide variety of people with vested interests in promoting or not promoting restaurants, chefs, etc. can contribute to this dialogue. I have a good nose for things that are made up, or fabricated, but can't be 100 percent sure of the veracity of everyone's rants or raves.
That said, I like to post comments pro and con, when they encourage helpful or enlightening discussion.
Montgomery Village, Md.: Tom- Dining at Laboratorio Del Galileo last night for the second time, I was reminded of the ambiguous bad-mouthing that was taking place at the expense of a certain, extremely expensive restaurant in the Virginia countryside. I enjoyed my experience at "the Lab" SO much more that my experience at that other place (and it's $170 cheaper). I really want to let "the other place" know how let-down I was by my experience there, without sounding like a know-it-all snob. How would I get the ear of someone important there, and how would I voice my constructive criticism tactfully? I had to see one of "the world's greatest restaurants" falling off. Tom Sietsema: The most effective way to reach a person who can affect change in a restaurant is to ask for the names and titles of said people (chefs, general managers) and write to them personally, copying them all. Be as detailed as you can about a given problem.
Restaurants would much rather hear complaints from unhappy customers directly than have complaints aired to the masses in forums such as this.
Michael Doesn't Give a Hoot: Amen on the Citronelle service ruining any sort of dining experience. I had similarly bad experiences there and wrote a letter to management both times. Never received a response. I'm sure Michael feels no need to address these concerns when he has you guys pumping him up regardless of his shortcomings. Bottom line...might be great food, but it's not worth risking the expense. Tom Sietsema: This is one of many such missives coming my way.
Washington, D.C.: Tom -- is it true that the Washingtonian published a photo of you? If it's true, why did they do so? Tom Sietsema: Yes, but the picture was ancient.
Must have been a slow news month ....
Montgomery Village, Md.: Tom- I was at Laboratorio Del Galileo last night and there was a man eating there alone, taking notes. If this guy is a critic, isn't he being too obvious? If you went to review a place like Laboratorio where everyone eats the same thing, would you still bring friends or would you save the Post some loot and eat solo? Tom Sietsema: Taking notes at the table is a bad idea if you're a critic hoping to remain anonymous. He might have been an enthusiastic diner, hoping to record for history one of Roberto Donna's 11-course extravaganzas. Just a guess.
Great Falls, Va.: Hi Tom, boyfriend is coming to town for a week. Taking him to L'Auberge Chez Francois for his birthday. We'd like to come into the city for several other evening meals. Please recommend two restaurants (seafood or Italian would be great). Work in Rosslyn, something nearby would be helpful and not too expensive. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Seafood: Johnny’s Half Shell near the Dupont Circle Metro station.
Italian: Kuna for modest romance and big portions on U St. or Sesto Senzo for something more fashion-forward in Dupont Circle.
Off to lunch for now, everyone! See you back here Oct. 2. Until then, dine well.
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