| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Oct. 9, 2002; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. EDT to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Tom Sietsema: Good morning, chatters.
Looking for an early holiday gift for that food lover on your list? The Four Seasons Hotel in Georgetown is planning two dinners, Dec. 3 and 4, to showcase the cooking of the esteemed Philippe Legendre, who is dazzling audiences at Le Cinq in the George V Hotel in Paris.
Legendre was lured from the world-class Taillevent, also in Paris, to raise the profile of the renovated hotel property a year or so ago. The five-course dinners are $125 per diner, excluding tax and gratuity, and include appropriate wines and a pre-dinner reception. Reservations can be made by calling (202) 944-2000.
Also, in response to a chatter’s query last week, about why the prices of dinner entrees are twice the price of the same lunch dishes, I wanted to share this response from Meshelle Armstrong, the wife of the chef at Bis and a veteran restaurant manager:
Hello Tom,
Just responding to the question about Lunch/Dinner prices. Why are dinner prices double at lunch for the same menu items?
The question that people should be asking is "Why is Lunch 1/2 the price of dinner?"
Restaurants that feature the same menu items for lunch and dinner don't
actually charge more for dinner, they charge less for lunch. (Some do give smaller portions) But the reality is, in order to serve the same quality of product, it still takes the same amount of preparation and execution. The Steak item at Bistro Bis is at a 45% food cost at lunch. They lose serious money at lunch. Smart restaurateurs do this on purpose. It allows them to stay in business. The food costs then equal out at the end of the day. The steak that was enjoyed for brunch at Bis is in fact the same portion as it is for dinner. So please tell everyone that they should thank the good restaurants &
chefs for for offering such a great product at lunch for half the price! Take advantage.
Thank You Tom!! Love what you do for the city.
Meshelle Armstrong
Arlington, Va.: I don't think you're a big fan, but I heard that Le Gaulois has been sold. Do you know any details? Tom Sietsema: I’ve never said in print what I think about the the French restaurant in Alexandria, so I’m not sure why you assume I don’t like the place.
Reports of its sale are true, I just confirmed: the restaurant was purchased in June by Sahid Oudghiri, who also runs Las Tapas in Old Town and Paper Moon in Georgetown. I’m told the chef and menu will remain the same.
Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom! My best friend is coming to visit from Philly Thursday night to Tuesday. We are going to do some cooking, but I would like to take her out to eat a few times for lunch/brunch/dinner. There are a few restrictions though -- I am a vegetarian, she eats little meat, we both have very small budgets, and I just got my wisdom teeth out last week so I need soft options, like pastas, soups, breads, cheeses, etc. (also another reason I don't want to spend too much cash on food). I'm open to places in the District or Arlington area. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Soft food, eh? And cheap, too? Let me steer you to the ceviche, tamales and flan at the affordable Guajillo in Arlington; the vegetable platter of Ethiopian stews and purees at Meskerem in Adams Morgan; or the sundry dips and other Middle Eastern appetizers at Baccus in Dupont Circle. All would make colorful choices.
Richmond, Va.: Tom -- I hate to repeat an oft-asked question, but I can't always keep my restaurant geography straight from 100 miles away. My girlfriend and I are going to the National Theatre on Saturday night -- where do we go for dinner before the show within walking distance, with entrees in the $15-$25 range? Thanks for all your good work! Tom Sietsema: My picks near the National would be the Occidental Grill (try the three-course $35 theater menu, which allows you to retrieve your car AFTER a show) or 701 restaurant – it’s a bit more of a hike, but you’ll want to walk off a bit of dinner before settling in for a long performance, right?
Washingon, D.C.: Hi Tom -- Regarding restaurant practice nights, I have two questions. One, is it normal to charge or not charge? I went to one recently and had a meal on the house -- which was very nice. But I also read Ruth Reichl's description of the opening of a Wolfgang Puck restaurant in "Comfort Me with Apples" and in it, they wonder if the guests realize that they have to pay. So, which is the norm? Second, how to I get invited to more of these?! Tom Sietsema: It is more common for restaurants NOT to charge for preview dinners, which are staged trials that serve to gather consumer feedback and help whip the staff into shape prior to opening night (the REAL, public debut).
To get invited, it helps to be a friend of the owner, the kitchen staff, or some other person connected to the place. Members of the press are frequently invited, too, to help spread the word of a fresh face.
Greenwich, Conn.: Hi Tom, I look forward to your chats everyweek! Would love to know your dining thoughts from your recent trip up (and over!) to Vancouver. Was the pacific rim cuisine all it is touted to be? Interested. Tom Sietsema: Vancouver is an amazing city. The rugged beauty wrapped around an urban core reminds me of a marriage between Seattle and San Francisco. And food-wise, it was great fun eating wild salmon, geoduck, a dozen kinds of oysters and even some pleasant wines from British Columbia. My Postcard from Vancouver runs Nov. 3 in the Travel section, by the way.
Weekly Dish -- didisappointed I thought that the new Local 16 was supposed to be good old comfort food (mashed potatoes, meatloaf, etc.). Warm fava beans and couscous hardly qualifies as that. From your review the restaurant sounds like it's every bit as pretentious as the other establishments by the same owners. What gives? Tom Sietsema: For the record, my item in today’s Food section column was by no means a review. It was simply a snapshot of a new restaurant, a chance to let readers know Local 16 opened.
As for the menu, I don’t think I ever said it was going to be “homey.” The night I was in, though, I also noticed roast pork loin, a burger, braised mushrooms and grilled chicken with mashed potatoes sharing space on the bill of fare.
Bethesda, Md.: What will be on the menu for the Four Seasons special dinner? We don't want to spring for it unless we can be sure that brains and such are not being included. Tom Sietsema: Alas, I don't have a copy of the menu. But I doubt that the chef would spring something too esoteric on an American audience.
Washington, D.C.: Tom -- I read your review of Zola with interest, and mostly concur with your comments. I have to say that the service there was rather odd. There seemed to be staff everywhere you looked, but it was never clear who was supposed to be doing what. Sometimes during our meal they were extremely attentive, at other times totally absent. In general, I found them friendly but a bit amateurish, as if they were making their first step up into a more upscale restaurant after a stint in a Perkins. My guess is they got some training, but it hadn't taken hold yet, or at least had some missing dimensions to it. Tom Sietsema: I totally agree with your assessment.
17th & L, WaWashingtonD.C.: Went to Savino's Lounge. The place is beautiful, but the cook served me a dried out filet of rockfish, which was terrible. I was with a four-top and couldn't send back my entre. The desert was from heaven, however. And the Ceasar salad wonderful. The pizza looked terrible (at $14.00). What irked me was the service. It's like at an Indian restaurant where everyone does everything and you don't know whom to ask for anything. When we did ask for something, we had to ask again of someone else, time and again. What's with the water pourers wanting to pour water into our water glasses which were half filled with $7 a bottle sparking water with the bottle sitting right there on the table still? I'd go back for desert and coffee. But the head waiter and the waitstaff need to CHILL. They seem to be really hepped up. Tom Sietsema: "Reading" a table and defining how much service to offer is one of the biggest waiter challenges.
Too bad tyyouad to suffer through that rockfish in silence, though.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom: On this chat a few weeks ago there was an exchange regarding posters who (it was alleged), under the guise of anonymity, spread nasty stories about Citronelle. One poster that day claimed she and her husband were sneered at by the wait staff on the husband's birthday. After you posted her comments, Citronelle's sommelier wrote in to express his view that people slander the restaurant and that none of his wait staff would treat a customer so rudely. Well, the following Friday I happened to be walking by Citronelle after work, and I was very tired and cranky. So, on a whim, I stopped in to get some wine. I sat outside and was delighted by the treatment I received from two of Citronelle's staffers -- my waiter plus the guy who showed me to an outdoor seat. I was alone, I made it clear I wasn't hungry enough to order the prie fixe menu, but that didn't seem to matter to them. What seemed to matter was that I was a customer, they valued me, and they must ensure I was comfortable, well fed and happy -- and that's just what I was. You can be assured I'll go back. Thanks for posting this. Tom Sietsema: I'm happy to do so.
That outdoor cafe, despite the slope, is one thing I'm going to miss as the fall chill settles in. I've had some stellar meals there, including a green gazpacho of amazing flavor and a tuna burger to end all tuna burger arargumentsAnd our young waiter was delightful.
Lijiang, China: Hi tom, i'm a Washingtonian backpacking through China right now, I'm in a town in SW China. Just thought I'd let you know that I'm still following you weekly from the other side of the globe from an Internet cafe in Lijiang, China! Tom Sietsema: I love this medium.
(Take some food notes, please!)
Four-Top?: Tom, What is a four top and why would that prevent one from sending back a meal? Tom Sietsema: That's restaurant jargon for a table that seats four diners.
I guess our poster didn't want to inconvenience three companions by sending back his food and possibly preventing them from starting their meals.
Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Local 16 comment: Ate there last week and had a pretty good meal. Only weird thing was the staff that was dressed as the cast of Rent Tom Sietsema: I hear you!
Plus ....I had to wait for 15 minutes just to get a menu (they were still being printed at 6 p.m.) and one of the hostesses kept blowing smoke in my face at the bar. Yuck.
Falls Church, Va.: Tom, Love the show. Did you ever cook professionally, or are you a taster by nature? Tom Sietsema: When I started working for the Post (my first tour of duty), I was Phyllis Richman's assistant. One of my duties was to test the bulk of the Food section recipes, and there were a LOT, as we had two sections a week way back when. So the Post was my cooking training (though I've taken random classes over the years, too).
Mt. Pleasant, Washington, D.C.: Re: the disappointed weekly reader -- for some of us favas and cous-cous is comfort food! I still can't figure out why anyone would pay for meatloaf and nasty macaroni and cheese at a restaurant. Restaurants that took a (dare I say it) European attitude toward comfort food would be far more welcome than another overpriced hash house. In fact, Tom, if you know any place that serves up a $12.95 polenta and braised chicken with garlic, I'm all ears. Tom Sietsema: I'll put that on my "to do" list.
P.S. One of the best renditions of mac and cheese I've ever tried was Patrick O'Connell's recipe at the Inn at Little Washington: melting with Gruyere and haunting with shaved truffles. I think the pasta was even made in-house. Mmmmmm.
Homey: For lots of people in D.C., warm fava beans and couscous WOULD be home cooking. Not everyone is from the Midwest (I am, and would love both the meatloaf and the above mentioned fava beans and couscous). Tom Sietsema: You are so very right. What's "ethnic" to some of us is "comfort food" to others.
Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, love your chats. I really love red and white tablecloth pasta joints ala' " Lady and the Tramp." I have been to A.V. and was suggested to Pines of Rome in Bethesda, Md. Any other ideas for me? Thanks! Ciao! Tom Sietsema: Il Lupo in Fairfax City makes a homey spaghetti sauce as I recall. And I liked Pasta Peasant in Alexandria a few years back (though I haven’t dropped by for more than a year now). Pasta Mia in Adams Morgan gets mixed reviews from readers, but that’s another option.
Arlington, Va.: Quick report from the field: Went to Wazuri last night on your recommendation. It was fantastic. You're my hero. Tom Sietsema: Wow, and, uh, thanks!
An update: A couple weeks back, a poster complained about a rude waitress at Wazuri. The owner called me recently to let me know that, after investigating said incident, the server has been let go.
Arlington, Va.: My parents are coming in from out of town for Thanksgiving and I am no chef. Do you know of any nice restaurants/hotels that have a Thanksgiving dinner? Tom Sietsema: Wisely, you are thinking ahead! I can’t think of a more appropriate place to gather the tribe than 1789 in Georgetown. (Did it once myself, and won raves from my house guests.)
Wine etiquette?: Tom, recently I think, you made a reference to having to refill your own glass of wine at a restaurant with inattentive service (the horror!). As someone who only occasionally orders a full bottle of wine at restaurants, can you tell me is it considered improper for a diner to refill his or her own wine glass? Is it different if the wine is in a carafe rather than a bottle? It seems peculiar to me that one would not refill one's own glass. It's not like having to get up to fetch the coffee pot from the waitstand. Tom Sietsema: Here's what I don't like:
1) Waiters who fill the wine to the very brim of the glasses, as if to empty the bottle as quickly as possible in the hope diners will order another.
2) Waiters who don't pay attention to the details in general -- details that include refilling water and wine glasses as they go empty. This is particularly true of a fine restaurant, where the bottle might be out of a diner's reach (in a wine bucket or on a counter, for instance).
Logan Circle, Washington, D.C.: Just had to write since you've decided to rah-rah for Citronelle again. I don't have a chip on my shoulder and I'm not just trying to slander, but on my two visits to Citronelle, I was treated poorly by everyone associated with the restaurant. Per your common advice, I wrote a letter to management both times and never got a reply. Tom Sietsema: 1) The restaurant really offers some kind of response. The best places care about what their diners think.
2) I've been to the restaurant anonymously and enjoyed nice, smooth service. I've also sent in friends, unknown to the staff, for feedback. None has reported indifferent service.
Somewhere, USA: Hi Tom, After reading the post from the reader in China, I was wondering if there were any regional areas/countries that you've never been to where you'd particularly like to try to local cuisine? I know there are probably many, but what's at the top of your list? Thanks Tom Sietsema: I have a mixed bag of places I can't wait to visit. Iceland, for instance. Australia, Argentina, Thailand, South Africa and Portugal are up there, too.
Re: "Lady and the Tramp" Ristoranti: Tom, what about Kuna! I LOVE that place. Mark Giuirich is so inviting and friendly. So they don't have checked table cloths but the food is fab! Tom Sietsema: Oops. Yes, I'd agree with you. Add Kuna to the roster.
Springfield, Va.: Tom: Last week one of your readers asked about what resources you use for restaurant info when you're visiting another city. I agree with you that Fodor's, Frommer's, and AAA aren't very useful if you're looking for fine or unique dining, as are many of the readers of this column. Knowing chefs and other food writers must be nice, but not many of us have connections comparable to yours. Tom, you neglected your own medium! Most cities of any size have newspapers, and most newspapers of any size have a dining column -- AND a Web site. I have searched the sites of major papers in Chicago, Phoenix, New York, St. Louis, Baltimore, Cleveland, Raleigh-Durham, and several other cities (including D.C., of course!), and have found their reviews to be very helpful in identifying places to eat by cuisine, location, and reader or reviewer recommendation. Of course, there's another option, which I've also used: Ask you online. Tom Sietsema: I guess I assumed people knew about online sources for restaurant information. They are as useful as the critics are reliable in their respective cities.
Two popular (non-news publication) resources are chowhound.com and egullet.com, both of which have some very knowledgeable food lovers as participants (along with others who are less so, I feel compelled to add).
Arlington, Va.: I have become addicted to the Food Channel on TV.
Have you every eaten at any of the chefs restaurants?
Mario
Emeril
Bobby Flay Would you recommend any? Tom Sietsema: I adore Mario Batali's lusty Italian cooking at Babbo in the Village in New York. Period.
Bowie, Md.: Tom, When I did waiting, I generally didn't refill diner's wine because you don't know which party member might be the driver and only wants one glass. Tom Sietsema: Good point. But a server can always ask, right?
Washington, D.C.: Another homey Italian restaurant (without the red and white tablecloths, though): San Marco in Adams Morgan. The service is always attentive, and the food, especially their specials, are first rate. Tom Sietsema: You are a bigger fan than I am.
Moscow, Russia: OK, I'll weigh in as well -- I follow these chats on travel when I can. More importantly, you should get yourself over here: Moscow is undergoing a culinary revolution, as indicated by the many, many very good restaurants (for some reason the New York Times has picked up on this, the Post should as well given that there are probably many folks from here travelling there) Tom Sietsema: New on my restaurant list: Moscow!
You are right, judging from friends who recently have braved the former USSR.
Bethesda, Md.: Tom, Perhaps this is a question equally directed to Michael Franz, so I'll ask him, too. Each week, page 3 of the Food Section lists several food and wine dinners, often at notable restaurants and typically at prices upwards of $75. Have you ever been to one of these events, and if so, what are they like, and are they worth it? Tom Sietsema: I don’t go to public events, including those wine dinners, and I bet I’m missing some good food and drink.
Participating chefs tend to use such forums to show off their cooking and impress the visiting wine makers and guests alike. If I were a civilian, I know I'd want in on some of the action out there.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, When reviewing restaurants, do you put on disguises like Phyllis used to do? Tom Sietsema: For this year’s dining guide, I employed illusion when visiting more than a few restaurants where I know I’m known. The technique proved to be really helpful: I got bad seats, rude waiters, etc.
Virginia: When you eat at a place that has bad service, do you use extra scrutiny on the food? Tom Sietsema: I’d like to think that I review places the same way. A restaurant that has poor service can have good food and vice versa.
Coral Gables, Fla.: Hi Tom,
I am getting married in D.C. next April and we are desperately searching for a casual rehearsal dinner venue in D.C. for approximately 85 people. We thought about BBQ or something of the sort, but there doesn't seem to be a place with a big enough private dining space. Any ideas? Thank you. Tom Sietsema: Have you tried Old Glory in Georgetown? It’s a pretty big spot. And while they are not bbq, for something different, you might also look into Gabriel on P St. (upscale Latino, and GREAT service) or Two Amy’s Neapolitan Pizzeria off Wisconsin Ave. (where you’d probably need to rent out the whole place). Just some thoughts.
Arlington, Va.: Although we don't usually go to expensive restaurants until they're (favorably) reviewed, my partner and I had dinner at Firefly last Saturday, based on our fond memories of John Wabeck's cooking at New Heights. We enjoyed the food and plan to return. A standout was the appetizer plate of crispy fried oysters, practically grease-free. The waitservice was merely adequate, but the bus staff are particularly well trained. There is still a slight chemical smell in the air, presumably from recent construction/redecoration, but the atmosphere is pleasant and totally unlike any other restaurant in the city (think boreal forest/Yggdrasil). Sorry for the long post, but I thought it might be a while before you review the place and I wanted folks to have an early opinion. Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your field work. As I’ve stated before, I wait a month before beginning the review process of multiple visits to a new place.
Silver Spring, Md.: My husband and I are constantly annoyed by the fact that so many fine, expensive restaurants focus on the food and decor only then to service warm red wine and not properly chilled white wine. It can really ruin an otherwise lovely meal. We did dine at Cafe 15 the other night and the red wine was served at the proper temperature. That is rare. Tom Sietsema: You are a chatter after my own heart. It amazes me how ften this problem surfaces, even in “fine” restaurants.
Suitland, Md.: Will you be attending the Taste of D.C. this weekend? Of the attending restaurants listed on Web site, which do you recommend I visit first? Are any of the Thai or Jamaican representatives worth a half dozen (or more) tickets? Tom Sietsema: It’s an, uh, ECLECTIC list going there!
I’d make a beeline for stuff that you probably don’t get the chance to encounter as much. Among others, the corn soup from Citronelle, the tapa from Jaleo, the salmon with housemade potato chips from Equinox. The trout from Oceanaire sounds good, and if the weather is cool, I’d want some chili from Hard Times Café.
I’m not familiar with all the Thai or Jamaican spots; Busara is pretty reliable for the former, though.
Arlington, Va.: Tom, wanted to give you my early review of Firefly: Nice room, above average food (good, but nothing I haven't seen elsewhere), discombobulated service (friendly, but a bit too much Keystone Kops),and a very gracious manager (unprompted, she gave us free deserts after we mentioned someone should tell the chef to lighten up on the salt) -- overall good vibe that I'll give another chance to really impress me. Keep up the good work! Tom Sietsema: Advance consumer review No. 2
Thanks.
Rockville, Md.: My husband and I have been going through a difficult situation. We had a fire in our house and had to sue the insuarnce company to get it paid for. After a lengthy litigation, we finally recieved a nice settlement from them. Home improvments are done and we would like to take around $200 for ourselves and go out for a nice dinner to acknowledge all this being over. Would like something memorable and romantic. I was thinking 1789-any other suggestions? only dietary consideration is that I don't eat meat but do eat seafood. As stated, would like the bill to be around $200 including a bottle of wine, and tax, and tip. Geography not really concern as long as it is in the DC metro area.
Tom Sietsema: Can you wait until next week?
My dining guide (Oct. 20) has almost 60 recommendations in it, including many that are in tune with your wishes.
Arlington, Va.: Tom,
I really enjoy your insight on dining in the D.C. area. The parents are coming into town this weekend and I've made a reservation at Colvin Run Tavern. I've checked out the profile on washingtonpost.com and seen mixed reviews. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance. Tom Sietsema: Go for it!
Alexandria, Va.: Can you suggest a nice restaurant where a couple might host a rehearsal dinner economically? To complicate matters, we are both vegetarians (although we are happy to provide meat for our guests) so the restaurant would have to be enthusiastic about accommodating our tastes. Some folks have recommended Indian food, but I personally don't care for it and, in addition, we are having many guests from the midwest whose tastes are decidedly American. We are also on a tight budget. We are looking for a place in Northern Virginia. Tom Sietsema: I bet the service-oriented Artie’s in Fairfax could work with you on a memorable event. Closer yet is the family-run Layalina in Arlington, Middle Eastern in flavor and prettily decorated.
Mark: Hi Tom. Regarding the comment from Logan Circle, Citronelle being a very busy restaurant, it is natural that there are complaint letters from time to time. All complaints are copied and come across my desk and are also read to the staff. I can honestly say that this year there have not been more than three letters that I have seen. Furthermore, I can assure you and Logan Circle that all letters are answered and followed-up on. If Logan Circle would like to contact me privately, I would be happy to address any complaints or comments and try my best to make amends. We are not in the business of making enemies. Tom Sietsema: There you go, chatter.
I'm happy to pass along any letter you might have.
Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom, I must admit, I am flabbergasted at the readers' posts on the washingtonpost.com restaurant area, regarding the food portion size at the Majestic Cafe in Old Town Alexandria. So many people complain that the food portions are "tiny." These people must be huge eaters! I can only tell you, my husband and I had dinner there last night, and we left there STUFFED for under $100. Are people no longer happy unless they are served "big-pig" portions? I, for one, am not interested in taking my leftover food home with me for lunch the next day. I enjoy the opportunity to order an appetizer or salad, entree, and then share a dessert, without feeling that I have had enough when I receive an appetizer "large enough to feed a family of four." No surprise at the report today on obesity being on the rise in the U.S. I'm not sure I have a question, really, I just wanted to rant about "big-pig" portions, I think! Thanks for listening! Tom Sietsema: I hear that complaint a lot, too, about numerous restaurants: "The portions are too small."
I would much rather have a small bite of something truly good than a big plate of something merely OK.
Frankly, most restaurants overserve diners, to the detriment of their weight.
The counter arguement, of course, is that some diners WANT to have leftovers for tomorrow.
And on that note, dear chatters, I have to head out to lunch in the 'burbs. See you back here next Wednesday.
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