| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Nov. 27, 2002; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Tom Sietsema: Lots of questions and comments this morning! Either a lot of you have the day off or the boss is away and there's time to participate in today's pre-Thanksgiving discussion. I'm grateful to see you all online. Let's roll ...
Ashburn, Va.: What kind of policy does the Washington Post have in regards to paying for wine when you got to a restaurant? Lets just say that you're doing a review for the Inn at Little Washington. We all realize that the Washington Post will pay for your meal. However, with the kind of wonderful meal that you're going to have for dinner, you would be expected to have a really nice bottle of wine to go along with it. Do you have pay for that bottle of wine out of your own pocket, or does the Washington Post pay for that also? If you do pay for your own wine when you do reviews, how much money would you say you spend in a year on wine at these meals? Tom Sietsema: Like most major publications, the Post pays for the entire meal, including any wine that I might order. (Wine is, after all, a component of dining out.) It's obviously a major commitment on the part of the newspaper.
Washington, D.C.: Since you don't like Peking Gourmet Inn, which restaurant do you recommend for ordering Peking Duck? Tom Sietsema: Yanyu in Cleveland Park serves the best Peking duck I've had on the East Coast.
Woodbridge, Va.: Where's the best place to go for an anniversary? Tom Sietsema: That depends. How much money do you want to spend, and what's your idea of romance?
Tenleytown, Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom: Several weeks ago the Northwest Current printed an ad for Blackie's House of (Aging) Beef. In it was a portion of a glowing review about how Blackies had improved and provided a first rate dining experience. The ad then said the quote was from the Post's Fall Dining Guide. Thinking that I had perused your reviews a tad too quickly, I went back and discovered that there was an advertising portion of the magazine which included "reviews" of a number of restaurants. In other words, Blackie's was quoting its own paid advertisement in the Northwest Current ad. While this is a fine example of bootstrapping, the ethics smells a bit like Blackie's beef after sitting on the counter a tad too long. Your reaction, sir? Happy Thanksgiving. Tom Sietsema: That's one reason I detest those paid blurbs in the back of the dining guide. They might be labeled as advertisements, but they sure look like actual critiques to a lot of readers. There's a reason I didn't mention the menu at Blackie's in my survey of Washington steak houses last year. Enough said.
Boston, Mass.: Tom, My husband and I moved out of D.C. in the summer of 2000. We are coming back for a visit this winter. What do you think are the best "new" restaurants that have opened since our departure where we can meet friends for dinner while in town? Figure on $15-$20 an entree. Thanks Tom, you're the best! Tom Sietsema: Don't miss cocktails at the new Zola or mezze at the even younger Zaytinya, which I'll be reviewing Dec. 29 in the Magazine.
Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Any good restaurants in the Logan Circle area? Tom Sietsema: Two dining rooms come to mind: 15 ria and the new Helix Lounge (more bar than restaurant) in the latest Kimpton hotel property of the same name. Both are within a cocktail’s toss of one another.
Great Falls, Va.: Tom, Love these chats. Great to get the latest info on the dinning scene. What do you hear about the new La Perla? Tom Sietsema: In a city bursting with Italian kitchens, that over-the-top newcomer between the West End and Georgetown sure wouldn’t be my first choice.
Herndon, Va.: Tom, Have you been to Cafe Atlantico since the old chef has left? Would you still recommend it? Tom Sietsema: Cafe Atlantico appears to be a work in progress. The new chef is still massaging the menu.
Cambridge, Mass.: Tom -- two months ago I sat on the veranda at Poste and enjoyed a fabulous alfresco dinner. Service was slow and a little eccentric but I chalked that up to having a large group that kept growing unpredictably into the night. But the food was wonderful (except for a side salad with the crab cakes that was so salty as to be inedible. We mentioned that to the staff). Two days ago I went back for lunch. Not only was the service still dreadfully slow but the salad of salt was reprised and the rest of the meal was, well, bland. A steak recommended by the waiter was tiny -- not really bigger than a hot dog -- and lamb on flatbread was so fatty that half was left on the side of the plate. We ran out of time (after an hour and a half) so couldn't even fill up with desert and coffee. I've seen this disparity with other restaurants where dinner is top rate and lunch is treated dismissively. Is there an economic reason for this? Do good chefs like to sleep in? Is it just an effect of the wine we have with dinner instead of iced tea at lunch? Tell me, Tom, what gives? Tom Sietsema: There are a hundred reasons for things not being the same from meal to meal -- or for mistakes to be repeated, for that matter. Restaurants are like live theater, which is why serious reviewers make more than one visit to get a sense of a place. Bear in mind, Poste is a restaurant without a designated top toque for now.
Alexandria, Va.: We are often out late and looking for restaurants in D.C. that serve after 10 p.m.; Preferably around the downtown, as well as 9-15th Street corridor. Do you have any suggestions? Tom Sietsema: Yupscale: Bistro Francais in Georgetown
Mid-scale: The Diner in Adams Morgan
Downscale: Stoney's on L St. NW
Arlington, Va.: A while back, I went to a Russian restaurant called Maxim near the White House. I thought the food was fine but on a weekday evening the place was empty. Is this a viable place? I haven't heard much about it. Tom Sietsema: It's a quirky place. Mid-week, it can be really, really quiet in the vast dining room but bustling in the bar. I understand the restaurant is liveliest on weekends, when young Russians gather for vodka, music and fellowship.
Washington, D.C.: Mr. Sietsema, I was celebrating my wife's birthday at Marcel's a few weeks back and she ordered a type of seafood stew that was a special. This dish tasted like dried out pieces of seafood in water with a couple of bullion cubes. I actually think that would have tasted better. On the other hand, I ordered the venison off the tasting menu as an entree and it was WONDERFUL. My point is, when the waiter asked us how are meals were, I responded appropriately while my wife hesitated and then said "Great." Should we have told them the truth that the dish was horrendous? What do most restaurants do at that point? Should we have sent the meal back immediately? Love the chats. Tom Sietsema: No offense, but it always amazes me how diners suffer in silence; there's a way to register dissatisfaction without being rude or confrontational. Your wife should have been more forthcoming about her reaction to the dish. I bet the restaurant would have been happy to replace it.
Out Late and Looking: Tom, Don't forget about the Old Ebbitt! Yes, it's traditional, but they serve until 11:30 I think. Tom Sietsema: Of course! (Best place around for enjoying oysters on the half shell, I hasten to add.)
Frederick, Md.: Tom, thanks for your review of Zest a few weeks ago. It's so nice to see that you venture out up in to our part of the area! We have fabulous restaurants too, and it's nice to have them reviewed! Tom Sietsema: Zest was a pleasant surprise and I was happy to have met its acquaintance.
Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, I enjoyed your your article on oysters last week. Some other places I would recommend are Johnny's Half Shell and for those a little more cost conscience, Georgetown Seafood Grill (50 cent Chesapeake oysters during happy hour!). So is slurping the proper way to eat them? I use a fork, but I do miss out on some of that brine. Tom Sietsema: Johnny's has good oysters, though not the variety I found at Old Ebbitt, which specializes in 'em. Forks are fine, but I opt not to use them myself for the reason you give.
Dupont, Washington, D.C.: Tom, I've been on the hunt for the perfect cute little Italian place -- not expensive, kinda campy, and really cosy and romantic. Do we have one in D.C.? Also, any other recommendations for places that are cheaper but with great character, and something you could only find in D.C.? I'm always on the look out for little gems such as these. Tom Sietsema: I'm fond of Kuna on U St. for inexpensive Italian, and it has the cozy sense you're after, too. To answer your second question, have you bee to Market Lunch at Eastern Market? That place has a local feel to it. So does the (lunch-only) C.F. Folks on 19th St.: fresh gossip and good specials at a lunch counter.
Re: Bad Meals: Do you think more people don't speak up about bad dishes because they are afraid its "just them"? Sometimes, when trying a dish, I'm not confident whether or not the food is bad, or just not to my liking. If the latter, I wouldn't want to make a fuss (and its not really the restaurants job to make sure I like something). So, if you're uncertain in a case like this, what should you do? Tom Sietsema: You can also take the honest approach: "You know, it's not what I was expecting." A good waiter might be able to engage you and trace the source of your problem.
Bethesda, Md.: Eating raw seafood is a risky undertaking. Therefore, why doesn't the Post add a caveat to articles such as your oyster review? Tom Sietsema: You raise a good point: people with, say, compromised immune systems should probably not be eating raw shellfish. But I did raise a cautionary flag in the column, when I advised people concerned about safety to verify the source of the oysters, etc.
Bethesda, Md.: On a radio ad this morning on WMAL, the hosts were raving about Blackie's and trumpeting that it had received a rave review from the Post, which they said rarely gives such praise to a restaurant. I think the Post should pounce on the station. This was a good example of false advertising. Tom Sietsema: Thanks for filling me in. I was unaware of the ad. Grrrr.
Foggy Bottom, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom! Love the chats, but I do have a gripe. I haven't been able to get a question answered in over a month! But no matter -- I'll try again! I'm looking for a good Brazilian restaurant in the city. Any ideas? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: This time's the charm! To my mind, there isn't a great Brazilian restaurant in town, though I know some people out there like to dine at Grill from Impanema in Adams Morgan.
Falls Church, Va.: In re: question regarding Peking Duck. What about Mark's Duck House in Falls Church? Outstanding Peking Duck, and not as upscale as Yanyu. Tom Sietsema: I beg to differ. The last time I tried the duck at MDH it was overly fatty and none too flavorful.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Love the chats. Need advice! My husband says it's nicer for the waitstaff if, when we pay with a credit card, we leave the tip in cash. Is that right? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: When I was a waiter (moons ago) I liked cash because otherwise, I had to wait for the manager to pay out any gratuity after my shift. But that was way back when and restaurants have different ways of handling stuff like that. Any servers care to weigh in on the topic?
Washington D.C.: Hi Tom, Love your column -- read it religiously. A number of people I know at work are not planning on traveling home for Christmas this year. Any good ideas for where to go out for Christmas dinner. Thanks and keep up the good work. Tom Sietsema: I don’t yet have a list of places that plan to serve Dec. 24-25, but you could probably count on a hotel restaurant to do the holiday justice. Among the many possibilities you might investigate are the Ritz Carlton in Pentagon City, Melrose in the Park Hyatt, Corduroy in the Sheraton For Points and the Jefferson, the last under the watch of chef Jeff Tunks (DC Coast/Ten Penh) and crew at least through the New Year.
Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, I couldn't join the chat live last week, but you hit on a subject that could have used my input (he says without a hint of ego ;-). The subject was the question about tipping on an expensive bottle of wine. I think there was a comment that opening a $300 bottle of wine is as difficult as opening a $20 bottle of wine so why is one expected to tip more? If you go to a restaurant, you are expected to tip up to 20 percent of the total you spend at the restaurant. Not 20 percent of reasonably priced items, or 20 percent of what you think is fair. When you enter the restaurant, if you are not prepared to pay $24 for a $20 bottle of wine, or $360 for a $300 bottle of wine for that matter, don't get that bottle of wine. Similarly, if you don't want to pay $9 for a $7.50 hamburger, don't order the hamburger! I never hear anyone say that you need to tip an extra 5 percent because you ordered water with your meal rather than a soda, but both of those items require the same amount of work from the waiter. When you look at prices on a menu you should assume that it all costs an extra 20 percent. If you tip less because you received poor service, that's one thing. But tipping less because you ordered something expensive is just wrong. Is it a stupid system? In many ways, yes. But until restaurants come up with something better, deal with it and tip. Thanks for the opportunity to vent. I'm stepping down off my soapbox now, and I actually have a question. Tom, what are your personal favorite books on food? Cookbooks, novels, dictionaries, sci-fi? Tom Sietsema: I’m happy to let chatters rant. That’s part of the reason this forum exists. When I moved last year, I forced myself to edit down my extensive cookbook collection. I ended up giving away several hundred cookbooks and kept just the ones I really loved and referred to most often. Anything by M.F. K. Fischer, Marcella Hazan, Diana Kennedy, Alice Waters, Bruce Cost or Julia Child stayed. I also treasure my copy of Larousse Gastronomique.
Washington, D.C.: My partner and I are going to celebrate a quiet Thanksgiving this year -- just the two of us! We were going to cook, and still could, but we're thinking about going out for dinner instead. We don't have reservations anywhere, but also wouldn't be looking for a place with a "traditional" turkey day dinner. Are most restaurants open tomorrow? Think we'll have trouble getting fed at, say, a Thai, Indian, Lebanese, etc., place? Tom Sietsema: I recall that the Bombay Club is doing an Indian-style Thanksgiving tomorrow. That would be fun, and festive.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom -- Have you or your readers heard anything about the new Brick Oven restaurant that opened in Cleveland Park? On another note, any rumor as to when the Indian restaurant will be opening in Cleveland Park? It seems to be taking forever! Tom Sietsema: Stay tuned: I’m writing about the Brick Oven in the Weekly Dish next Wednesday in the Food section. (The new pizza and pasta purveyor replaces Coppi’s Vigorelli.) No word yet on Indique, the forthcoming Indian outpost, however.
Washington D.C.: Re: Cash vs. credit Waiters like cash because it's easier to fudge the numbers on April 15! Tom Sietsema: Aha!
Sarasota, Fla.: We're already looking ahead to our son's graduation this May from Georgetown. Where should we make reservations for a special celebration dinner? Tom Sietsema: The obvious choice is 1789 in the shadow of the university -- but be sure to book early, as it’s a tough reservation to get at that time of year. On a less lofty note, Bistro Francais is a good bet.
Bethesda, Md.: Where can one find good ceviche in the area? My husband is coming into town for the holiday weekend (we're a bi-coastal couple), and I know he has been craving some good ceviche since his last trip to Chile. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Costa Verde, a Peruvian restaurant in Arlington, and Guajillo, a Mexican spot in the same burb, both do a sparkling job with their citrus-splashed seafood salads.
Glover Park, Washington, D.C.: OK Tom, now that half the city is empty and I can leave work early, I need to know who has the best lunch special in upper NW (closer to Glover Park is better) for lunch today. Nothing too pricey and any cuisine is fine. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: This weather calls for something hearty, ja? Consider Old Europe’s German menu on Wisconsin and Calvert or the always-delicious Heritage India in the same general area. Further up the street, don’t forget the pies at Two Amy’s Neapolitan Pizzeria on Macomb.
Cash vs. credit card: The main advantage to cash is the waitstaff can keep it without reporting it. When the tip in on the credit card, it all goes into systems and officially counts as part of pay, has taxes withheld, etc. Cash tips above a certain point (most people I knew reported enough tips to get from waitress wage to a couple bucks above min wage). Not that I am endorsing avoiding paying taxes. Tom Sietsema: Of course not, and thanks for the feedback.
Alexandria, Va.: Since it's "turkey time," I thought of a poultry question for you. Where do you like to go for GOOD fried chicken? (It can be a regular sit-down restaurant OR fast food). I vote for Popeye's spicy, by the way. Happy Thanksgiving! Tom Sietsema: I, too, am a fan of Popeye’s. This summer, I had some terrific fried chicken at the Oval Room, of all places.
College Park, Md.: Hi Tom, My husband and I wanted to go out for Thanksgiving dinner, but our first choice restaurant, Harmony Cafe in Georgetown, is closed. (OK, I know the food isn't spectacular, but the crispy shiitake appetizer is amazing.) Neither of us really wants a traditional turkey feast, so my husband suggested Green Field. We had a great time at a churrascaria in Brazil, and I'm a little worried that Green Field won't measure up. Is it worth a visit? If not, can you recommend an Asian restaurant? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Skip Greenfield, which is no longer as good as it used to be. For Asian, try Meiwah in Washington or Hollywood East Café in Wheaton.
Laurel, Md.: Tom, Getting married quickly due to military transfer at the courthouse in Rockville next week. Party of eight, all carnivores. Please suggest a dinner not more than $40/per person plus alcohol. Tom Sietsema: How about the new Tower Oaks Lodge off Whooten Highway in Rockville. (Ask for a table in The Great Room, with its woodsy views.)
Rockville, Md.: Believe it or not, some restaurants charge their waiters the 2-4 percent of the charged tip that the credit card processor charges the restaurant. Another reason for cash. Tom Sietsema: Thanks for enlightening us even more.
Washington, D.C.: In the spirit of the season, I just wanted to give thanks for the dining guide! We never would have schlepped out to Greenwood for a meal if the dining guide hadn't prompted us. Furthermore, I didn't think I liked mussels, but my significant other talked me into trying Greenwood's because you'd recommended them. I am now resolved to ordering mussels more often in other places. So where? Tom Sietsema: Almost as amazing as the bivalves at Greenwood is the double decker pot of mussels at Le Mannequin Pis in Olney -- trust me, it’s worth the drive out there. Also check out the new Smith Point in Georgetown, whose chef previously worked at Greenwood and does the dish proud. Thanks for the kind words, by the way. Here's wishing all of you a safe and delicious Thanksgiving, whatever your plans may be. See you here Dec. 4!
washingtonpost.com: That wraps up today's show. Thanks to everyone who joined the discussion.
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