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Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic

Wednesday, Sec. 4, 2002; 11 a.m. ET

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.


Tom Sietsema: Brrrr. I hope this chat finds all of you warm in your cubicle or office or wherever you happen to be logging on this morning.

This has been a really good work week for me, which means I’ve been dining well. There are lots of interesting restaurants in the ol’ pipeline these days. Stay tuned in the weeks to come for more details.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. I’m going to the 4 Seasons special dinner tonight. Can you tell me what I may expect? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Lucky you! Philippe Legendre, the guest chef from Le Cinq in Paris, is an amazing talent, lured away by the Four Seasons' George V Hotel from the fabled Taillevent. I have no idea what he’s cooking at the two sold-out dinners, but I can almost promise you the menu will be extraordinary.


Soon to be New York City: Tom --

VERY important question. I need a great, romantic restaurant for a lunch date in Manhattan in a couple of weeks. I am willing to spend a fair bit of money, mostly it just needs to be romantic, as the lunch will be for a wedding anniversary. Thanks for the great advice as always!

Tom Sietsema: You can’t be the venerable Four Seasons with its VIP clientele, shimmering metal curtains, amazing wine list and solid American menu. A favorite of the late James Beard, it’s timeless.


Washington, D.C.: Tom, do you know what's going on with Penang on 19th and M? It's apparently been shut down for renovations for about two weeks now. Any knowledge of a re-open date?

Tom Sietsema: There was a small grease fire at Penang two days before Thanksgiving; some repair work is being done to correct a problem with the ducts, a manager informed me just moments ago. He hopes to reopen the restaurant by Monday, though the city has to sign off on that before business can resume.


15th Street, Washington, D.C.: I am obsessed with good, made-from-scratch Caesar salads, so rushed over to Nick and Stef’s on a recent Friday to try out the one you’ve so often called the best in the city. When I got there, though, I found a note on the menu indicating that they only make the salads at your table on “non-event nights.” Well, it was technically an event night, though the crowd for the Grateful Dead (minus Jerry) concert were hardly spilling over into this upscale steakhouse, where only about three tables were occupied. They explained that they would have to make the Caesar back in the kitchen which seemed tolerable (I don’t need to see it being made). But I was disappointed to find an utterly banal and tasteless salad -- hardly worse than your typical restaurant Caesar but that's not saying much. It could have come off a catering truck. Indeed, when I went back to your description, it seemed like a different salad -- whole anchovies instead of minced, dry croutons, no tang of vinegar or taste of raw egg. What do you think?

Tom Sietsema: I think the restaurant is inconsistent. I’ve ordered that salad about five times now, over the past few years, and I’ve never been disappointed.

Yet recently, I’ve been getting more than a few complaints about Nick & Stef’s. I won’t recommend it again until I revisit the restaurant personally.


Minneapolis, Minn.: I am not sure what you know about the Minneapolis area, but I am looking for a few good restaurants to try out. I would like places where the entrees aren't more that $15-20. Thanks for your help, love the chat.

Tom Sietsema: I’m a big fan of the Swedish-themed Aquavit in the IDS Tower (just watch the vodka intake!) and Restaurant Alma, an organic-minded restaurant near the University of Minnesota.

Do you live there? Ric Nelson, the Star Tribune's restaurant critic, is a man whose taste I trust.



Washington, D.C.: May I rant about poor service? Last week, I went to the Chef Geoff's downtown. After waiting 30 minutes for the waiter to return to my table of four, I left my seat to get her. When entrees arrived 25 minutes later -- two of the sides were incorrect. The manager wandered by and asked how our meal was -- after the bill was presented. We told him of our service concerns and he said he would comp part of our bill. He comped $10 off of a $140 tab. Paltry and hardly indicative of good customer service. Despite the fact that the salmon was really good, I will never go there again and will advise my coworkers (as a group, we spend $1,000 a month on business lunches) to take their business elsewhere as well.

Tom Sietsema: Ouch. Restaurateurs, are you listening?

Sometimes a half-hearted apology is worse than none at all.


Curious: Tom,
Do you mask your voice when calling restaurant staff and managers to ask queries like those you offer doing these chats? I would think they'd learn your voice eventually and know when you were making a reservation, even if you used an alias.

Tom Sietsema: More frequently, I have friends and family do the honors of making reservations. It is getting harder and harder to visit restaurants anonymously, I'm discovering.


Alexandria, Va.: Tom, have you tried the newish Aladin's Eatery in Shirlington? Just wanted to throw a recommendation to the chatters out there -- my boyfriend and I love good food and used to hate Shirlington's subpar options, but now there is a new reason to go.

Tom Sietsema: I had a pleasant meal there just last week -- and wrote about same in today's Weekly Dish column in Food.


Reston, Va.: Hi Tom,

I'm looking for a D.C. restaurant that will accommodate a bachelor party for about 10 guys. Thing is, I'm a big wino and would like to bring special bottles for the occasion. Do you know of any restaurants that have good corkage policy and maybe a small room for 10 guys? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: “A big wino,” eh? I’d start by calling the Caucus Room, Marcel’s, Taberna del Alabardero or The Oval Room, all of which feature private rooms.



Washington, D.C.: Tom,

Last week you took a shot at La Perla. I was thinking of going this weekend. Could you be specific about your concerns?

Tom Sietsema: It's a lot of gloppy Italian food, I'm sorry to say, served in a dining room that looks airlifted from Vegas.


Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Tom,

Over the past year the Kimpton Group has received an inordinate amount of press -- and praise -- and much of it has come from you. Frankly, it is mostly hype and I am sorry you have fallen for it. Firstly, why do you keep referring to the Topaz, Rouge, Helix and Firefly as Kimpton properties? Let's get the facts straight. The principal ownership and control of these properties is in the hands of LaSalle Hotel Properties, a conservative hotel REIT that owns various Marriots and Hyatts and Meridien hotels around the country (none of which are known for their food). Yes, Kimpton has a management interest, but from what I understand Kimpton was primarily involved in the conceptual design, public relations (which it obviously spent thousands on) and recruitment of staff and not much else. On the other hand, all employees of Topaz, Rouge, Helix and Firefly receive paychecks from LaSalle Hotel Properties. This is the real employer here, not Kimpton. When equipment has to be repaired or replaced, LaSalle cuts the check and only if it wants to. LaSalle also has editorial power and has used it. For instance, when Kimpton wanted to name the former Howard Johnson (now the Helix)the Pajama, it was vetoed by LaSalle. That name was just too much for the conservative Bethesda-ites (LaSalle's headquarters are based in Bethesda). Heck, they are even closer than Kimpton which is located in San Francisco.

You have wittingly or unwittingly led many people to these places with a false premise and many -- including myself -- simply got overcharged for a $10 to $14 martini. Food, in the end, isn't what Topaz, Rouge and Helix are about. They are about getting people to spend a lot of money on over-priced liquor. And frankly, I am almost apoplectic that after so much text authored by you about these places (and their food) over the last year that you have been remiss to mention that both the Topaz and Rouge discontinued their lunch service as of last month due to lack of customers. What gives?

Tom Sietsema: You sound like an insider. Nothing wrong with that, mind you, but you sure seem to know about the business end of these various hotel properties.

Lots of issues to address:

1) You might want to re-read my reviews of Topaz and Rouge (March 3, 2002). I don’t think I was so easy on either lounge and I did in fact raise an eyebrow re: the pricey drinks.

2) While I like to keep readers up to date, I can’t always trumpet every change of hours of operation that comes down the pike. If I'm aware of them, of course I want to pass that information on.

3) Kimpton, which also opened Poste in the Monaco Hotel in Penn Quarter, has really helped to enliven the local dining scene and I’d be remiss not to mention that.

4) You’ll be happy to see in my forthcoming review of Firefly in the LaSalle-owned Hotel Madera (THERE! I SAID IT!) that there is no mention of Kimpton’s involvement.

Thanks for your comments.



Metro Center, Washington, D.C.: Tom,

I'd like to get some friends a gift certificate to a restaurant in Philadelphia. Any suggestions of something that would be particularly good? Thanks for your help.

Tom Sietsema: Either Vetri (romantic Italian) or Pasion! (upscale Latino) would make delicious gifts.


Washington, D.C.: Tom,

My husband and I are coming up on the 17th anniversary of our first date. We often celebrate this funny little anniversary as though it were the real thing (any excuse for a great meal). We love to eat well and food was an important part of our courtship lo those many years ago. I was trying to surprise him with a splurge at Laborotorio del Galileo but it is not available on the given night, only 10 days away (I like to take chances; fine dining is almost more fun when spontaneous). I'm looking for an idea. Obelisk is our all time favorite and we also like Palena very much so we'd be looking for a similarly quiet and elegant meal where we can focus on the food and each other (instead of the spilled mac and cheese which is a hallmark of our family meals these days with 2 small boys). I realize that with little lead time our options are shrinking. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: You seem to have experienced many of the usual suspects.

If you REALLY want to surprise him, check out the newly opened 2941 Restaurant in Falls Church, which I’ll be writing about in next week’s Weekly Dish column in the Food section.

Trust me on this one; bland name aside, there’s not another restaurant around like this French-American destination. The number: 703-270-1500.


Silver Spring, Md.: I have noticed lately that restaurants, especially more casual restaurants, don't clear all of the dishes away at the end of the meal. They take my entree plate, but often leave sauce dishes, small salad plates, or other pieces. Why do they do this? I'm much more likely to stay and have a cup of coffee and dessert if the table is not a mess. The answer is probably to complain to management, but the problem also seems so very common. Thanks for letting me vent.

Tom Sietsema: Vent away. I’ve noticed the problem, too.


McLean, Va.: "Patron Rage" will be the next new phenomenon in restaurants as the economy sinks, especially at the high end places. People here in .D.C would yell at a CVS clerk in a heartbeat but take crap from servers. I tell them to go to hell.

Tom Sietsema: Ok ......


Rockville, Md.: Dear Mr. Sietsema,

I will soon be having a long overdue reunion with a friend currently living in Richmond. Since I live in Rockville, she and I have agreed to meet somewhere in the middle, which we have decided is Potomac Mills. (What woman would miss an opportunity to spend a few hours before the holidays at Potomac Mills?)

We need to catch up on the couple of years that have past since we last saw each other, and would like your help in finding a restaurant somewhere in that vicinity that offers enjoyable food and a nice unrushed atmosphere. My Internet searches have only offered restaurant chains that are not at all appealing for this purpose.

It would be greatly appreciated if you would share any suggestions. I am never disappointed when I follow your advice.

Tom Sietsema: Do any chatters care to weigh in here?


Washington, D.C.: Tom, thanks for doing these chats -- they are the best! I have a very simple question, where can I find very good French Onion soup in the DC Metro area. I had it for the first time about two weeks ago and now I can't get enough of the stuff. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: One good source can be spooned up at the new Bistrot Lafayette in Old Town.




Bethesda, Md: Tom: wanted to share good service from a less than fancy restaurant. Former work acquaintances were visiting from out of town. We ended up at the Austin Grill at Gallery Place because they weren't adventurous enough for my suggestions of Jaleo or Zaytinyah (I know, but whatcha' gonna do?) We let the waiter know we weren't there for either the Caps game or the play at the Shakespeare Theatre, so he didn't rush us, but didn't disappear either. We lingered after paying the bill, and at some point later, he dropped by and politely let us know that if my friends needed a cab, the game was about to end. We'd already tipped, so he had no particular reason to do that. Nice!

Tom Sietsema: Always happy to share tales of good service, too. Thanks for the anecdote.


Arlington, Va.: Isn't the chef or owner of La Perla from Filomena's? Shouldn't that be a warning to us all?

Tom Sietsema: The chef of La Perla was the opening chef, years ago, at Filomena. He never owned the Italian restaurant in Georgetown, however.


Georgetown: Great chat, as always.

What restaurants out there are expensive, extremely popular, and make you scratch your head wondering why people would want to go THERE?

Tom Sietsema: Hey, hey, it's the season to be NICE, right?

There are a few, but I'm curious as to why you would want to know?


Least Favorite Food: I know that as a reviewer your food repetoire has to be incredibly large, but I refuse to believe that you like every food out there. So, tell us, what food, be it a fruit, veggie, spice, animal produce, dish, would you be happy to see fall off the face of the earth?

Tom Sietsema: I'm not a huge fan of fennel or anything with licorice, though I do eat them "on the job." And I think zucchini is a real yawn of a vegetable.

If I never saw another molten chocolate cake -- boy, talk about a good idea gone bad! -- I could live with that, too. And there's waaaaaay too much white truffle oil being misused out there.



Clearing the table: Interesting point about clearing the table. I actually don't like it when they clear the whole table -- it's very distracting since they often reach across the table to retrieve even the smallest butter plate. It makes me feel like they're trying to get rid of me.

Tom Sietsema: I hear you. But more often than not, I find that those used butter dishes and sauced plates have a way of ending up on my shirt cuffs. Ultimately, I prefer a clean table to one with remnants of a meal.


Georgetown, Washington, D.C.: Re Why would you want to go THERE?

Not meanness, I hope. I'm just wondering about the points of clear disagreement between what's popular and what a trained palate judges to be worthwhile.

Tom Sietsema: OK.

I do not understand the Cheesecake Factory, for instance. Huge portions of factory food -- and people waits HOURS to get a seat there! McCormick & Schmick's is wildly popular, too, but I always leave wondering what the excitement is about. The Palm is good only for a few things -- and most of those happen to be faces in the crowd. I could go on ...


Falls Church, Va.:

The room was "like something air-lifted from Vegas" Rig-a-ding-ding. Sounds like a perfect idea for a new theme chain.

Tom Sietsema: Let's hope that's not the case.


Post street: Danube, Tom. I'm going to go to Danube in NYC on Friday. What do you know?

Tom Sietsema: Get the wiener schnitzel! The best just about anywhere -- including Austria.


Popular but bad: You cannot exclude Maggiano's from that list.

Tom Sietsema: I cannot, you're right.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom! Hope you can get to this question: My boss is taking me out to lunch next week as a goodbye gift, and, of course, I'm at a loss as to where to go. So, do you or anyone else have any suggestions? Price range is moderate and can be anywhere in the city. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I’d love it if someone took me to a farewell lunch at Ten Penh, Equinox, Oval Room, Bistrot Lepic or Zaytinya.



Sorry, not about D.C.: TOM, help me please, you always have the answer!

I am looking to take my boyfriend out to a nice romantic dinner in Baltimore for his birthday. Preferably Fells Point or Canton area with entrees around $20. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I always enjoy the times I get to spend at Black Olive, a cozy family-owned Greek restaurant with a seafood focus, at 814 S. Bond St. The ingredients are prime. On a more moderate note, I like Helmand (but that's on N. Charles), the Afghan restaurant.



Fairfax, Va.: Tom, Love the chats. Are there any ethnic restaurants you'd recommend in Reston or Herndon? We have a small celebration tonight and would love some great, authentic Thai, Japanese, maybe Vietnamese or Middle Eastern but don't want to drive too far for our stand-bys, Busara and Bangkok Blues. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: For sushi, try Yoko II on Elden St. in Herndon, a branch of the very good Yoko in Oakton.



Washington, D.C.: What is your opinion of Cafe Milano?

Tom Sietsema: I like it most for its energy and eye candy. If you’re the type who likes to see and be seen, here’s where you need to be.

There are much better places around town for Italian cooking, though. Last time I ate there, I watched the owner and his pals eating at the bar, chaos all around him.


Falls Church, Va.: Hi Tom -

Submitting early due to work. But I wanted to ask if you've tried Restaurant Seven in Tyson's Corner. The review on The Post site is not your byline, and I've never seen you mention it. Thoughts on whether it is appropriate for a 30th birthday dinner for two?

Tom Sietsema: Restaurant Seven recently lost its opening chef. I think you would be better off choosing another place to celebrate the occasion. (Tip: Have you tried Colvin Run Tavern yet?)


Baltimore, Md.: The Helmand is a very nice suggestion! Mt. Vernon is a beautiful area, much more so than Canton or Fells Point. If you finish up early, I suggest the Brewer's Art for an after dinner drink, if your bf is a fan of Belgian brews.

Tom Sietsema: Good suggestion. Thanks.


Kalorama, Washington, D.C.: This is not really a question but advice for those heading to London. While there last week I had the good fortune to dine at both Gordon Ramsay and Le Gavroche. Ramsay was very good, formal yet relaxed and no attitude, but certainly had some "misses" on the food. Gavroche was better overall, like an old Rolls Royce that runs flawlessly. It is also easier to get a reservation there. If you are in London and want one great dining experience, try Le Gavroche. Also, for convenient pre or post theater dining, try J. Sheeky near Leicester Square. BTW, Tom, you do a great job.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your mini-reviews. London-bound chatters thank you!


Washington, D.C. : Hi Tom,
In your opinion can you name five top restaurants in the city with a good wine list. I always enjoy reading your columns and hope you are not going to tell me to ask this question to Michael Franz.

Thank You. I am posting this early so that you get sufficient time.

Tom Sietsema: Didn’t I address this topic recently?

I like different places for different reasons, but high on any roster of diner-friendly restaurant wine lists would be Jaleo for its Spanish selections, Johnny’s Half Shell for its prices and variety, Citronelle for its classics, Yanyu for its lighter wines appropriate to its menu, Pesce for its reasonable prices (half are less than $30), the new Zola for its design and tempting choices.

I could go on, but those establishments leap to mind at the moment. Certainly there are other restaurants that pay attention to what they pour, though fewer than I’d like.


Washington, D.C.: Hey, Tom-

I've tried to get in on your chats twice before, so maybe the third time will be the charm.

I work around the corner from you, at National Geographic, and I used to love going to Havana Breeze on K Street for rotisserie chicken and black beans. I took some friends there a few weeks ago, and was totally disappointed. The food wasn't as good as I'd remembered, and the counter service was a complete mess. Not enough people working, and just utter chaos. Do you have any insight on this? Maybe they changed ownership, or they just don't care anymore? I miss the good old days.

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, I haven't been to Havana Breeze in too long (and your review doesn't exactly make me want to return).


Always Feel Left Out: How many other questions/comments do you not respond to in a typical hourly chat?

Tom Sietsema: I can get hundreds of these an hour. I aim to answer from 30-40 each session. Sorry if you feel left out, but ... I can only type so fast, you know?


Washington, D.C.: Regarding your Cheesecake Factory mention, I too find it very disturbing that the portions are so huge (and the food nothing special). People line up for hours there and at Maggianos -- which boasts the same deal.

Personally, I think it's a shame that restaurants would choose to waste so much food simply because it brings in the crowd. But there's the reason for it -- the ever present lines. People go because they think they're getting a good deal and can eat loads, but what an incredible waste!

Tom Sietsema: I think a lot of their audience is hoping to make a second meal from whatever mountain it doesn't finish in the restaurant.


Blech! : "What woman would miss the opportunity to spend a few hours at Potomac Mills?"
Lots of us. It's noisy and depressing and generic, and the fast-food choices are more than usually bad.

Tom Sietsema: LOL


Say it ain't so!: Tom, did you actually just say something nice about a restaurant in Old Town that isn't the Majestic Cafe? What, did someone spike your coffee this morning? Unbelievable.

Tom Sietsema: Why, the next thing you know, I might say something glowing about Bethesda .... or the Hill .... or ....


Potomac Mills eateries: We live near Potomac Mills and the restaurants are almost all chains. I love it when we get out of town and head up north for dinner. There are several Asian restaurants that I can't speak for but if you are in the mood for a casual barbecue place, Dixie Bones on Occoquan road is where I would head. Make sure you try the Chocolate Cream Pie if you go.

Tom Sietsema: Several other chatters have placed a vote for Dixie Bones. It must be THE place to dine there.


Milan, Italy: Hi Tom,

I am currently abroad in Italy, but am looking for an Italian restaurant in the Northwest D.C./Bethesda area to have a bridal shower. Someplace open on Sundays, that would have a private room and of course, great Italian food. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help!

Tom Sietsema:
(Hello, Milan!)

You’ll have to check if they’re open on Sunday evenings, but Terrazza in Chevy Chase and Tosca in Washington would probably both make festive backgrounds to your event.


Chevy Chase, Md.: Does Washington have a restaurant comparable to Sage and Onion in Santa Barbara or do I have to start making travel plans?

Tom Sietsema: Sage & Onion (which I wrote about in a Postcard from Santa Barbara last Sunday in Travel) is a small, welcoming, and chef-owned restaurant that cooks in tune with the season. Certainly I’d put Equinox, Palena, Cashion’s Eat Place, Majestic Café and Obelisk, among other venues, in that category.



Very warm, thank you: Speaking of cozy, what are some good places to go cuddle up in front of a fire and have drinks and dinner? Fireplaces in restaurants are hard to find these days. The Red Fox in Middleburg has one, but its too far to go just for an hour or two...

Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: I love the hearths at the new (Clyde's) Tower Oaks Lodge in Rockville and the more contemporary fireplaces at the aforementioned 2941 in Falls Church and Zaytinya in the District.

And don't forget the old reliables: Tabard Inn, 1789, Cities, and the Jefferson, among others.

Alas, the hour is up, gang. Thanks for sharing your questions and comments.


© Copyright 2002 The Washington Post Company