| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Dec. 11, 2002; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Wesley Heights, Washington, D.C.: Tom you stated last week in this chat:
"It is getting harder and harder to visit restaurants anonymously, I'm discovering." With the strong emphasis you've always placed on not being recognized, saying it's an integral criteria to produce a fair review without undue influence from the restaurants; can you continue doing reviews in the Washington area without the PERCEPTION of turning into a Washingtonian magazine reviewer? (I re-state PERCEPTION; you have never come under question for producing a loaded review.) Could this be foreshadowing that it's time for you to move to another market? (I'm not encouraging that!) Or will we begin to see disclaimers written into your reviews stating that you believe or know that you were identified and it may have influenced the dishes and service your table and surrounding tables received? Perhaps that would be a good thing to do going forward. Some food for thought, so to speak. Thanks for all your efforts. Tom Sietsema: You raise some interesting questions and touch on an area of concern for a lot of restaurant critics. As a consumer reporter of sorts, I think it’s important for a reviewer to do as much as he or she can to remain anonymous: visit unannounced and reserve under other names, etc. And the fact is, I have worn disguises in a lot of top restaurants here in Washington (and don’t THINK I’ve been recognized).
The trouble is, anyone who does this work for very long is bound to be discovered after awhile. (If I were a restaurant owner, for instance, I’d want to know who the local critics were and would endeavor to find out.) But you know what? Being recognized doesn’t necessarily mean I get better service, I simply tend to get MORE service, and it’s frequently intrusive and unnecessary. (I mean, I don’t need to see a water pitcher every time I take a drink of water, nor do I need five people watching over me.)
Further, the chef can’t get any better than he or she already is just because a reviewer comes into the picture. In cases where I am known to the staff, I pay extra attention to what goes on in the dining room to see how well other guests are treated and take note of as many plates as I can to see how presentations and portions sizes may or may not vary from mine. In other words, if I’m getting a big dollop of caviar on my plate, anyone else who orders the same dish better get the same “garnish” I get, because I’m going to write about it.
Finally, while I really enjoy and admire many of the people whose work I cover, I try to keep a distance from them, in part because I don’t ever want to pull any punches. Hopefully my experience outweighs my being outted from time to time.
Bethesda, Md.: Tom -- So what's up with all these new restaurants named after numbers: Cafe 15, 15 Ria, Seven, and now 2941? Are their owners/developers so language challenged that they can't come up with anything catchier or more evocative? Tom Sietsema: I've been wondering the exact same thing.
It's unfortunate. All three of the places you mention are superior to the images their bland titles convey.
Alone for the Holidays: This will be my first Christmas in D.C., and alone. I'm going to see "Les Miz" that night and I'd like to have dinner beforehand near the National Theatre. I'd like something with an entree price of $20 but where I can show up all dressed up, any type of food (except steak) will work. Any suggestions? Thank you! Tom Sietsema: Your best bet is Butterfield 9, within walking distance of the show. The handsome American restaurant not only has a pre-theater menu, but a traditional Christmas menu (with roast goose!) to choose from throughout December.
Washington, D.C.: Tom -- More of a rant than a question. My pet peeve: I've made a reservation at a restaurant. I show up on time for my table. The restaurant can't/won't seat me for 15-30 minutes!? If I've taken the time, in advance, to choose when and where I want to eat and the restaurant has offered to save me a place, why isn't my table ready when I arrive? This seems to be happening more frequently of late, and I had a particularly long wait for my 1:15 reservation at Old Ebbitt Grill on Friday, Dec. 6. Especially at lunch, when I (like many) need to get back to the office, I shouldn't have to add an extra 30-45 minutes to my dining time when I had the foresight to make a reservation in the first place. This probably won't make it to Wednesday's discussion, but thanks for letting me vent! Love the chats and your column; keep up the good work! Tom Sietsema: There are several explanations for this problem:
Frequently, restaurants overbook (only to have everyone show up) and sometimes, diners linger longer than the restaurant anticipated. Factor in patrons who are late and what you have is someone like yourself: on time and kept waiting.
I believe in a grace period of 15 minutes for guests and restaurants alike, because that’s the civil thing to do. Some things are simply out of a person’s control (take today’s weather, for instance). But if 15 minutes stretches into 30 minutes, the hospitable course of action is for a manager or waiter to offer a drink from the bar or some token of apology.
Restaurateurs?
Washington, D.C.: Tom: My parents are coming in to town shortly and was trying to decide between Le Relais and the new 2941 Restaurant. I was intrigued, obviously, by your comments about 2941 in today's Weekly Dish. Which is the better choice? washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish, (Post, Dec. 11) Tom Sietsema: There's your answer, above.
Washington, D.C.: What's the word on Stacks? It's pricey, but that's because it's kosher. I think that they are still getting their kinks out, but that it's going to be good. Tom Sietsema: I'm going to give Stacks and its more formal sibling, Archives, time to settle in before weighing in.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom -- Do you have suggestions on where to dine for New Year's Eve in the district? Are there restaurants with special events or meals planned? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: At 1 p.m. today, this site will be publishing a list of places that will be open for the holidays, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year's.
Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Daily double?!: do you have any recommendations for good, authentic Cuban food in D.C. area AND I am going to Santa Fe, N.M., this weekend; you have any recommendations? Tom Sietsema: 1) Cuban Corner in Rockville
2) Cafe Pasqual's in Santa Fe is so good, you'll want to dine there morning, noon and night. I especially love it for breakfast (get in line). For something more upscale, don't miss dinner at Geronimo on the art gallery-lined Canyon Road.
Arlington, Va.: Tom, love the chats, but never seem to get my question posted. Can you indulge me in your restaurant wisdom? BF is finishing first semester of law school exams soon. Want to treat him to a nice, reasonably priced, romantic dinner. Was thinking Little Fountain Cafe or Tabard Inn. Seriously, don't have much cash on hand especially with Christmas coming, so keep that in mind if you can. Other suggestions welcome. Thanks a million! Tom Sietsema: Little Fountain will cost less than the Tabard Inn and, in my mind, the former is even more romantic.
Other possibilities: the new Firefly, the new Zaytinya, the newly delicious Perry’s.
Rockville, Md.: Any guidance as to where one may find an authentic mexican "mole" sauce in these parts? Tom Sietsema: I'm still looking for one myself. Guajillo's version comes closest so far, but it comes with Sahara-dry chicken.
Washington, D.C.: Is it typical for the server to pour everyone's glass of wine? Five of us were at Old Ebbitt Grill and we ordered a bottle to share. Our waitress poured all of our glasses, which would have been nice, except that by the fifth glass there was only a few milliliters of wine left. The waitress promptly went to get another bottle to finish off the last glass, but shouldn't she have asked us before getting a second bottle? Had we been asked, we probably wouldn't have ordered the same wine (the fifth person could have easily swallowed the small amount poured for him in the time it took for her to bring another bottle). We were also charged the full price for both bottles, which we wouldn't have minded had we actually been offered a choice on the second bottle. And would it have been better to avoid the situation entirely by allowing us to pour our own glasses? Tom Sietsema: I hate it too when waiters unleash an entire bottle of wine at a table, filling the wine glasses to the brim in the hope of selling another bottle to a group. Bad, bad, bad!
One of you should have piped up, but it probably happened too fast for anyone to respond. The best way to avoid that scenario is for the server to pour a generous splash into each glass, leaving a bit in the bottle and allowing you to mull more wine, or a different lable (or not).
Washington, D.C.: A comment and a question: I'm not a foodie. I rarely understand my menu or what I'm ordering because I have no idea what the terms mean. I've always appreciated your reviews because they're written in easy to understand terms, for us non-cookers, and they focus on other aspects of a restaurant, like the ambience. I LOVE to eat out, and do so regularly, at pretty upscale places. I can judge them now, even though I don't always understand the subtlety of the food preparation, with help from you. So, thank you! Now, onto my question..Given my lack of food expertise, do you have a recommendation for a Web site or a book that explains basic food preparation? Braised vs. grilled vs. roasted in a dirt pit? Also, what's with servers who aren't willing to help explain preparation, or a certain ingredient? I'm trying to get more knowledgeable about this stuff, but I can't if I'm afraid to ask because the waiters make fun of me! Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Kudos to you for wanting to learn more about your restaurant meals (and 50 lashes with a wet noodle to those waiters who aren’t helpful!). An informed diner ultimately is a happy diner.
There are a ton of resources out there; you might start with a trip to the cookbook section of your favorite bookstore and flip through the likes of “The Joy of Cooking” , a wonderful American primer, or books that focus on technique, with pictures that demonstrate carving, sauce-making, roasting or whatever. I enjoy Anne Willan’s numerous practical (French-grounded) cookbooks for that, for instance. Good luck!
Washington, D.C.: "The newly delicious Perry's"?! That place has been terrible for years. What changed? Tom Sietsema: I'll tell you all about it next month, OK?
Perry's?: What do you mean by "newly delicious?" Tom Sietsema: Four months ago, the food at Perry's was so bad, I ended up having a second meal at Cashion's Eat Place afterwards.
Say it's true: Any word on a new Vietnamese place on Capitol Hill? On Pennsylvania Avenue, perhaps? Tom Sietsema: Been there, done that. Unfortunately, Pacific Cafe is just average.
Washington, D.C.: Tom, In January I'm planning on proposing to my girlfriend and I would like for us to dine at L'Auberge Chez Francois. (Haven't made the reservation yet) I know they take reservations up to four weeks in advance -- is this amount of time needed in the winter or will I be able to get a seating with less of a time frame? Also, with the "Bended Knee" taking place that night, not necessarily at the restaurant but the joint will be a big part of the night, is there a table and/or section that will lend itself to a very special evening? Will mentioning the reason for the dinner when making the reservation help make the evening more memorable at L'Auberge? Thanks for any advice. Tom Sietsema: I always encourage anyone who wants to propose in a restaurant to do some homework.
In this case, you should talk to the maitre d’ when you book your table and visit the restaurant to see where you’ll be for the night. The more comfortable YOU are, the smoother the meal should go.
There are a number of cozy spots at L’Auberge, by the way, but you’ll probably want something in a corner or otherwise tucked away from large parties or other distractions.
Chevy Chase, Md.: Not so much a question, but a comment about Greenwood in NW D.C. We were there recently and were totally amazed at the inflexibility of the chef. She refused to alter a plate's presentation at the request of one diner who didn't want one of the foods on his plate. He then asked if she would accommodate his request to place it on a separate smaller plate. She refused. The waiter was in an awkward position and a lengthy discussion about her insistence that the "presentation" would not be altered ensued. What about the preferences of the person paying the tab? (I understand, by the way, the need to refrain from substituting foods in a restaurant of this size -- but this was beyond the pale.) We will not be returning to Greenwood based on this experience. While the food was good, it was not so special as to warrant a return after such a hassle. Your thoughts? Tom Sietsema: Carol Greenwood is a terrific cook who could use a lesson or three at charm school. On the one hand, I admire her standing her ground -- it's her food, after all. But the criticism she gets (and I hear about constantly) for not being more accommodating ain't worth the bad public relations.
Washington, D.C.: Perry's has always put on a satisfactory drag-queen brunch. Fun and loud! Tom Sietsema: "Fun" and "loud" are two things I'd rather not wake up to on a Sunday morning. How about some quietly delicious food?
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. I hope you will post this. I went to the George V dinner cooked by Pierre Legendre [sp?] last Wednesday night. It was amazing. The highlight for me was venison with chocolate almonds, and eating it with the corresponding wine (sorry, I forget the name) was a transporting experience. But each course, with its corresponding wine, was a poem. It was truly a special evening. The sommelier, Enrico, did a fabulous job of pairing each course with a wine. And he was so enthusiastic about each one, visiting each table asking how you liked each course, that it made the experience even more enjoyable. And the people-watching was fun, too. Some people (like me) were there to ooh and aah about the wonderful flavors they were treated to while some others, I'm afraid, were there to show off about how much they knew about haute cuisine. They were so busy showing off they forgot to enjoy the spectacular dinner. Lastly, the customer service at the 4 Seasons is superb. I hope Pierre et al. come back again soon. Did you go to either of the dinners? Tom Sietsema: Alas, I was unable to attend that very special event (though I have experienced Legendre’s exquisite food on his home turf). Glad to hear you enjoyed yourself.
As for the showoffs ... what boors! There are few things more tiresome than people going on and on about the fabulous meals they can afford (and you can’t).
Washington, D.C.: I would like to purchase a $100 Gift Certificate for friends who live in New York, N.Y. They are pretty adventurous eaters, so there really aren't any restrictions. What restaurants would you suggest? Thanks for your help. Tom Sietsema: Easily I could send you a hundred suitable options, but there’s not enough time. I bet your friends would love a chance to dine at Aquavit (modern Swedish), Gramercy Tavern (contemporary American) or Danube (Austrian cooking in a jewel of a dining room).
Re: Stacks: $8.00 for a mediocre egg salad sandwich on plain white bread -- yikes! Tom Sietsema: Yikes indeed.
Tried to let you know...: Last Friday, after trying to make reservations at Firefly using the number listed with the review, I tried to figure out how to let you know that it was a fax number, but gave up. How could I have given The Post a heads up? Tom Sietsema: I have no idea how the fax number in the online review, which publishes Friday, replaced that of the reservation line (it was correct in the Magazine). The problem was solved shortly after it was discovered, fyi.
You can always reach me at asktom@washpost.com, which I check several times each day, though.
Arlington, Va. -- need advice: Tom, Hoping that you can help me choose a restaurant to send my sister and bro-in-law out to for a holiday gift. My sister has to stay away from all dairy so that limits the selection a bit. They like ethnic restaurants, Japanese, Thai, etc. What would you suggest in Northern Virginia? I want to spend about $75. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: How about Minh’s (Vietnamese) in Arlington or Sakoontra (Thai) in Fairfax?
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, took your advice in the dining guide and suggested Minh's for a first date. We ordered the sizzling catfish which truly came out sizzling and covered in a heap of -- what? -- fennel fronds? Came with a huge plate of noodles, peanuts, onions, basil, cilantro, shards of crackers with black sesame seeds, and a spicy sauce. The charming waiter showed my date how to prepare a small bowlful, and then told him that he (my date) had to prepare a bowl (under the waiters watchful eye) and present it to me. We ate little bowl after little bowl, a delicious and fun experience. And a great date -- so thanks! Tom Sietsema: I love snapshots like that. Thanks for sharing.
Mt. Pleasant Re: Greenwood's: I sympathize with chef's wanting to execute "their food" "their way", but I find those who are utterly inflexible tiresome. It is food, not a religious text, it can be changed without endangering one's soul or even one's vision. There are legitimate reasons for not changing orders -- kitchen too busy, ridiculous requests, ingredients not on hand. Otherwise, chefs should lighten up. Maybe Jack Nicholson had the right idea. P.S. I was a waiter with Yannick Cam's Le Pavillon and Nora Pouillan at Restaurant Nora, both talented chefs with strong opinions, and both were willing to entertain any reasonable request for change. Tom Sietsema: You make a good point there. Thanks for chiming in.
Springfield, Va.: Wearing Disguises: Forgive me, Tom, but the image of a big funny-nose-with-glasses-and-mustache plopping off into your soup fills me with mirth. Keep up the good work, Groucho. Tom Sietsema: I am happy to be the source of your amusement today.
I'd love to share some hilarious near-misses regarding that "mustache plopping into the soup" but I'm saving them all for retirement.
New Bern, N.C.: Tom -- I just wanted to thank you for your review on the Inn at Easton. Over the Thanksgiving weekend, we ate there with my parents and had one of the greatest meals I have ever had. On the weekends they have a fix price ($55) 3 course meal which gives you an amazing chance to sample an unique style and unusual ingredients. The Beta fish as a centerpiece on each table is a neat change and a conversation piece. The food was simply amazing and I got the feeling that I could pick anything on the menu and I would have enjoyed it as well. Then the next night, we went with a gang to Marrakech. It was, as you suggested, not the best of food. I think people go there purely for the atmosphere (and the blond belly dancer). Anyway, just wanted to thank you for your suggestions and I wanted to know if you had any other suggestions of places like the Inn at Easton (pricewise and with a unique cuisine, but doesn't have to be Australian, just unusual) for the next trip up Washington-way. Thanks for the smile. Tom Sietsema: I may have a Destination Restaurant Scoop next month. Stay tuned (and thanks for the kind words).
Northwest Washington, D.C.: Tom, I tried this question last week and you didn't respond--I know you get bombarded! But I am really curious. What happened to Mrs Simpson's restaurant and what replaced it?! I am dying to know! Tom Sietsema: I'll look into it. I believe the replacement, Pesto, is adopting an Italian accent.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Just have to say that it's such a relief to be back in DC and read about REAL restaurants after having been in Orlando the past year -- otherwise known as "chain restaurant hell." There's so many new places -- what would you recommend that's new and noteworthy in downtown D.C. -- something about $20/entree? Thanks! washingtonpost.com: Tom's Annual Dining Guide is a good place to start. Tom Sietsema: My very first job interview after I left the Post in '88 was at the Orlando Sentinel, which was then looking for a restaurant critic. I wasn't their pick, obviously. Thank goodness.
Brunch: Well since you mentioned it, where would you go for quietly delicious food on a Sunday morning? In town, who do you think has top notch hot chocolate? Tom Sietsema: 1) New Heights
2) Baked & Wired in Georgetown
Washington, D.C.: Tom,
I am in the Dupont area a lot and I always walk by the Italian restaurant Fuzio on Connecticut Avenue. I ate there once and the food was terrible. Other people who have eaten there have had the same experience. I was wondering what keeps that place open? Tom Sietsema: Location, location, location?
Orlando haters: Ouch. There's good places to eat there. Just stay away from Universal! Tom Sietsema: Yes, of course there are good places to dine there, but back then, I recall a features editor taking me to what was then the "best place in the city."
It was in a shopping center.
Arlington, Va.: My husband and I have both worked in restaurants in the past and recently went out for a nice meal in the District. The bill was $100 with tip for two people, one glass of wine and one bottle of sparkling water. The issue is that we noticed some critters (roaches) during the meal. At one point, there was one crawling on our small, dimly-lit table. We didn't say anything to the staff. I didn't finish the meal; we paid our bill and left. What would you have done in this situation? I appreciate your response -- this is really bothering me. Tom Sietsema: I would have pulled the manager aside, explained how much you enjoyed the cooking but how you also felt compelled to leave early because of the bugs.
It could be a problem the restaurant doesn’t know about.
Washington, D.C.: Tom - love the chats, thanks! I was at Clyde's the other night sitting at the bar. The bartender shook hands with all three in my party and asked our names. I noticed he did this with EVERY person at the bar, usually thrusting his hand out saying "didn't catch the name." This is the first I've seen of this, and I have to say, I was a bit put off by this. Is this normal? Should I have expected a hug on the way out? Tom Sietsema: I see this happen in a lot of bar-restaurants, including the Boulevard in Arlington. It's intended to be friendly, I suppose, but ain't this the flu season?
In a Cube: Tom, just wanted to say thanks... you've gotten to a gajillion questions today, and covered a wide variety of topics. I always appreciate these chats, and today's has been FAB! Again, thanks! Tom Sietsema: You'll have your check delivered at 12:01 today.
Hungry on 15th St., Washington, D.C.: Tom, three terrrrribly important questions: 1. I am heading to London/Edinborough for a week's vacation around New Years. Any suggestions for one fancy/one less so restaurants in both cities?
2. What's the word on the planned rehab of the Madison Hotels's restaurant?
3. What was Trent Lott eating at Strom's birthday party that made him freak out so? Tom Sietsema: 1) Check out my Postcard from London in the "columns" section of the Post's Travel site. I love Green's for a moderate meal, by the way.
2) Sorry, I need to make some calls.
3) Just goes to show what damage a sugar rush can cause!
Clifton, Va.: Isn't L'Auberge Chez Francois in a strip mall? Tom Sietsema: No!
Washington, D.C. & Christmas Day: Greetings Tom,
My girlfriend and I are looking for a great place to celebrate Christmas for dinner before we catch the evening show of 'Le Mis' that night. Could you recommend a place that might be good for a young couple like ourselves, to celebrate the holiday season? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Here’s a launching point: Corduroy in the Sheraton Four Points Hotel on K St. NW is serving Christmas Day dinner from 1-9 p.m. The three-course menu is $38 a person, exclusive of drinks and tip but including (ta da!) Christmas cookies. Call 202-589-0699 for reservations.
Downtown Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Thanks for chatting every week. I dine out about 4-5 nights a week and eat at many of Washington's great places. So I'm wondering if there are any restaurants out there that have wacky entertainment, or wacky decor or have some type of theme to it to make my dining experience a little different or fun. And no, I'm not looking to go to the Hard Rock Cafe or a lame chain place like TGI Fridays. Tom Sietsema: Jaleo has flamenco dancing once a week (Wednesdays?) and Melrose offers dancing to live jazz on Saturdays. In Arlington, Taste of Morroco serves up belly dancing. Is that wacky enough for you?
Arlington, Va.: Tom, my husband and I are late night diners and we are confounded by the early closing hours of most kitchens at decent restaurants in the D.C. area. The D.C. area certainly doesn't ACT like the major metropolitan area that we are. We have a short list of restaurants that we can go to that serve after 9:30 p.m. in the urban core (predominantly Alexandria, Arlington and D.C.) but are hungry for more. Can you offer any additions to our list? It currently includes Capitol City Brewing Company, Full Kee and Virginia Beverage Company, to name the high points. What can we do? We don't want to resort to take out. Tom Sietsema: I hear this gripe all the time. I think I can improve your list by suggesting Bistro Francais in Georgetown, Eat First in Chinatown, Hollywood East in Wheaton, Kramerbooks Café in Dupont Circle, Meze in dams Morgan, Old Ebbit Grill near the Treasury Building and The Diner in Adams Morgan.
Now I'm going to pull on my boots and trek out to (garbled copy) for lunch on this gray and rainy Wednesday. Thanks for showing up, everyone, and come back next week for more restaurant chat. Adios.
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