| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Jan. 22, 2003; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Washington, D.C.: Hi, Tom, Love the chat. I work at your alma mater, G'town U. Saturday night is the second annual Georgetown College Ball, to be held at the University Club (16th & K). My fellow deans and I are looking for a place to eat downtown (perhaps even within walking distance) where we won't look ridiculous in our black tie attire, and that could possibly handle a group of 18 who didn't their act together to make a reservation earlier (and we tell our students not to procrastinate). Butterfield 9 came to mind. Other suggestions? Go Hoyas! Tom Sietsema: Oh oh. Did you know that Restaurant Week has been extended through Jan. 26?
That little fact might make getting a table for so large a group even tougher. Get on the phone this minute and see what The Oval Room, Olives, the revamped Jefferson, Corduroy or perhaps Ortanique have available at the moment.
Good morning, everyone.
Seeking NYC in Washington, D.C.: Tom,
Are there any restaurants in Washington that you think have a hip New York feel, both in decor and quality of food. I remember the first time I walked into Bistro Bis and thought, "this feels more like New York than Washington." Can you think of others that might have the same effect?
Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Just last week, I took a savvy pal from the Big Apple to Zaytinya on 9th & G streets.
"Boy, this feels like New York," were the first words out of her mouth.
Somewhere, USA: I know you must get tired of these. . . but here goes:
OK, I was very disappointed when I saw Perry's did not take reservations because I'd like to take my b.f out for his b'day which falls on a Saturday. I am a vegetarian, he eats anything, but likes fish best of all. We were looking for quiet, innovative, romantic. Also, not to sound too conceited, but I am a very good cook who catered for a living, so I need to go somewhere that doesn't make me say: "Wait a minute, why did I just pay $$$ for something I could make easily with nothing extra in terms of service or presentation. I should have stayed home and cooked this meal myself. . . " (meaning, we like the atmosphere to be part of the meal). Wines are important, too. We considered Equinox, but I have heard murmurings that it is a little overpriced (something of a factor--I am not on a high budget here). We've had lovely meals at Al Tiramisu, Jaleo (too loud for this though), and other places you have praised, so I figure my taste is similar to yours. Is Ten Pehn an idea that would meet our criteria do you think? Are there others? Firefly maybe? Zayatinya? (which is on our list, but I don't know if it would be good for the b'day dinner in terms of quiet, romantic, etc.) Thanks so much. I really love your writing. Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the kind words. Places you might consider include Melrose in the Park-Hyatt, the bar at Palena, Greenwood, Yanyu and Heritage India -- all of which have interesting interiors and something to suit your food tastes.
Washington, D.C.: I am debating whether or not it is appropriate for me to write a letter complaining, and I’d like your opinion. On Saturday night my date took me to the Caucus Room for a romantic dinner. Everything was great until, about halfway through our meal, a piercing fire alarm went off. The staff immediately told everyone not to worry, it was a false alarm, to please stay in our seats and it would be turned off quickly. After at least 10 minutes of piercing sirens, flashing blue lights, and a robot voice saying “This is a fire emergency. Please do not use the elevators. Please evacuate the building immediately”, the DC firemen came and turned it off. Many people who were farther along in their meals left, but we were in the middle of our (excellent) steaks. It ruined the entire night for both of us. I expected the restaurant to try and compensate us in some way, and I did mention my discomfort to the waiter (who was in training) and the manager. But we got nada. My sweetie was very embarrassed that he had chosen that restaurant, and we left as soon as we could. So, should I write them or not? Tom Sietsema: Accidents happen. It's a fact of life. But had I been the host, I would have attempted to smooth out the evening some. A free dessert or after dinner drink would have made a nice last impression, in my book.
Washington, D.C.: So who's getting reviewed in the magazine this week? Tom Sietsema: Hint: A new destination restaurant in da burbs.
Washington, D.C.: Regarding Stacks, which message pile has been bigger, the rant pile or the rave pile? Tom Sietsema: This sounds suspiciously like a query from a publicist or other interested party.
Rockville, Md.: Hi Tom! You are so cool! What are some unique places you would recommend for foodies on a tight budget? Tom Sietsema: Lunch at Breadline.
Dim sum at A & J in Rockville or Annandale
Lunch at C.F. Folks
Breakfast at Teaism
Andean tapas at the Chi Cha Lounge
Hot dog and homemade fries at Johnny's Half Shell (lunch only)
Any meal at Four Sisters in Eden Center
Minh's in Arlington
Somewhere, USA - Gabriel: Hi Tom. We enjoyed restaurant week last week at Zola and Poste - both were terrific. We also enjoyed brunch at Gabriel on Sunday, but I was sad to see their chef is leaving! How do you think this will impact the restaurant? Tom Sietsema: It's hard to tell what will happen after Greggory Hill's departure, but I imagine he will be leaving some strong players in place at Gabriel.
Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom: I was looking through one of my best-loved vintage cookbooks. This one is from the '40s. There was a recipe in it, which I can’t get out of my head. They described it as “A delicious dish for the most discriminating gourmet.” It was a braised opossum with persimmon stuffing. It also called for the opossum to be fatted for a week on mashed persimmon and warm water. Any suggestions where one may find this rare treat? Tom Sietsema: You have to be pulling my leg ..... right?
Washington, D.C.: When are we getting the column on which strip club serves the best burgers? Tom Sietsema: Hmmmm. I wonder if “Archibald’s” and “Camelot” on my expense report would raise any eyebrows in Accounting ...
Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom, my mother is going to be celebrating a special birthday soon, and my family and I are planning a surprise birthday dinner for her at a restaurant. We live in Chevy Chase, D.C. and would like the restaurant to be somewhat nearby. Many of us kids have our own children who will be attending; our kids range in age from 13 to two and all are comfortable and good in fine dining situations. There will be 18 people in the party. We would like the restaurant and food to be very nice. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thank you. Tom Sietsema: Tavira, at 8401 Conn. Ave., continues to be a special place. Ignore its underground location and focus on the kitchen’s terrific Portugese menu. The sunny dining room includes a private area, by the way, if you’d like to toast Mom without onlookers.
Washington, D.C.: I have some friends coming in from Greece this weekend, and want to entertain them with Greek food at some point, during their stay. What do you think is the best greek restaurant in the metro area? Tom Sietsema: You’ll have to drive to Baltimore for the area’s best Greek cooking, but the fresh fish and extensive wine list at the cozy Black Olive are worth the trouble. Closer to home, I like Mykonos Grill in Rockville.
Washington, D.C.: How often do you have to order something that does not sound interesting to you, just for the sake of giving a complete review? I am not a picky eater, but I am not interested in trying certain dishes, as they do not appeal to me. Do you have to order things, you would never order just for thoroughness? Tom Sietsema: To be fair to the restaurant, I have to order dishes the way they appear on the menu, and sample the full range of a chef’s work. In other words, the skin stays on the chicken, the sauce stays on the fish, and I eat the fennel with my lamb even though I’d rather see another vegetable on my plate. I’m not a huge chocolate fan either, but I know I’m in the minority, which means I order desserts made with chocolate during one of my multiple visits.
Arlington, Va.: What's your take on Nora? A friend has suggested it for dinner tonight. I see they have a tasting menu for $60 - wondering if it's worth it. Tom Sietsema: Nora is a wildly inconsistent restaurant. It can be very good -- or really mediocre. Oddly, the restaurant continues to garner lots of national press, which begs the question: have the writers actually eaten the food there recently?
Upper Marlboro, Md.: Have reservations at Chez Francois L'Auberge on Sunday Feb 16th, at 1:30PM for a belated Valentine's Day meal. I have never been there. Is there anything I should order that is their speciality? I am anticipating a wonderful experience but should I know something in particular. Thanks Tom Sietsema: Be sure to try the house aperitif, beer poured over orange liqueur. In this weather, I'd gravitate toward the fine choucroute or herbed rack of lamb. And the seasonal fruit tarts are a sweet way to close a meal there.
RE: Foreign Guests: Tom, I'm not trying to cause trouble. However, why do people with foreign guests always want to take them restaurants that serve their native food? Don't you think the Greek restaurants in Greece serve better food than Greek restaurants in Washington, DC? Why not take your guests to American places? Tom Sietsema:
Washington, D.C.: Given your response about Nora. Do you get a lot of calls from professional publications asking for your input or opinion, either on the DC food scene or general comments about food trends? Tom Sietsema: All the time.
Potomac, Md.: Tom - just wanted to thank you for your recommendation of Corduroy. My wife and I went last night, and it was fabulous. For anyone trying to sneak one more meal in for Restaurant Week, this is the place to go. With just a couple of exceptions, the ENTIRE MENU is available for the $30/3 courses special. Tom Sietsema: Glad to hear your rave. Despite its neutral interior, Corduroy is one of Washington’s delicious secrets.
Burke, Va.: The person with the possum recipe ain't necessarily fooling with you. Remember Joy of Cooking has instructions on how to skin and cook a squirrel. Tom Sietsema: I thought about that. But the combination of THAT animal with THAT fruit sounds made-up to me.
Washington, D.C.: Mom's apple pie. Where can I find it, Tom? I love fruit desserts, Tom, especially anything with apples -- pies, tarts, cobblers, crisps, charlottes, bettys. Who is doing the apple (and other fruits) justice? Tom Sietsema: I’d start my search with Baked & Wired in Georgetown. It’s located at 1052 Thomas Jefferson St. (202-333-2500) in Georgetown.
Washington, D.C.: I have come to a major epiphany. Food and wine pairing is nonsense! I think a hearty burgundy might be great with a delicate piece of fish. I also think a great bordeax could be great with sushi. Pinot Noir with dessert, maybe. Would a sauvignon blanc not taste great with some lamb chops? Come on. Let's open our horizons. I was recently in Paris, and they are serving reds chilled. I love wine, but I think wine pairing is idiotic. Tom Sietsema: Um, what’s wrong with serving chilled red wine? Nine times out of 10, I have to ask for a wine bucket for my red wine because the restaurant stores it at too warm a temperature. This happens constantly, even in upscale places.
I’m all for people drinking what they want to drink with their meals (I find red wines more interesting, in general, myself) but there is more than affectation behind pairing spicy Chinese food with a gewurtztraminer, for instance, or a slab of beef with a bold cabernet sauvignon.
P.S. Sushi-Ko, among other restaurants, is helping broaden our wine-food horizons by offering reds with raw fish.
Chevy Chase, Md.: I know it may not be up your alley, but I am in my 40s and looking for a sports bar in MD to watch the Terps this season (well, a restaurant with enough TVs) that my wife and I can get a reputable meal, not be bombarded by too many fans and can sit comfortably.
I also know you hate Bethesda, but have you ever watched your Hoyas or the Terps up there or in the surrounding area?
Thanks, Tom. Tom Sietsema: The bar at the new Clyde's in Rockville has a bunch of TVs (and for those of you in the Virginia 'burbs, there is the delicious Artie's in Fairfax).
Washington, D.C.: When you rate restaurants do you think about the standards in other cities, or do you rank the restaurants against what is available in Washington? I am from California, and I have found several of your Asian and Mexican recommendations ridiculous. Is Guajillo really good at all? Ten Penh would not last one week in San Francisco. There are good restaurants in D.C. I love Jaleo, Kaz, Corduroy, Tosca, Makoto, 2 Amy's, and 1789 among others. But, I must know if you are only comparing those you review against what is available here, or against some greater good, that is possible as evidenced in other cities. Tom Sietsema: Restaurant-wise, Washington has nothing to apologize for. I travel widely in this gig, and have endured plenty of mediocre cooking in Los Angeles and New York, among other popular dining destinations in the U.S. (I disagree with your assessment of Ten Penh, by the way, though I agree that San Francisco does offer better Asian fare, in GENERAL. )
But to get back to your question: For the most part, I judge local restaurants based against local competition, though it would be foolish for me not to factor in food experiences I've had elsewhere. For example: one of the best roast chickens, my model, is the bird served at Zuni Café in San Francisco. At least unconsciously, I keep that in mind whenever I tuck into chicken here.
Washington, D.C.: Thank you for reviewing a moderately priced restaurant for once (Sunday). We are all not expense-accounters. I know you once had to pay your own way, so keep us in mind. Tom Sietsema: If people could spend a week with me, I think they’d be pretty surprised at what the job entails. I spend far more time checking out cheap eats, particularly in the ‘burbs, than people ever read about in the Magazine.
The trick is to find places that are both easy on the wallet AND worth the attention of 1.2 million Magazine readers. Regular readers know I aim to provide a mix of neighborhoods, cuisine styles and price ranges from month to month. People who say I concentrate too much on one area over another simply aren’t following my work too closely.
P.S. I may have an expense account, but I always PRETEND it’s my own money I’m spending when I dine out. And if you look back, I’ve reviewed plenty of moderately-priced places, including Cho’s Garden in Fairfax, Singh Thai in Arlington, India Palace in Germantown, Artie’s in Fairfax, etc.
RE: Apple Pie: The Pie Gourmet in Vienna has by far the best pies in the area. Tom Sietsema: Sounds like a promising tip. Thanks.
Penn Quarter: What happened to the Star Saloon on 10th St., across the street from Ford's Theater? I went on maternity leave last October, came back to work and my friend told me she noticed last week that it was gone. We liked the place (and I recall from your review that you did, too). Tom Sietsema: Whaaaa! No more of that wonderful, stick-to-your-ribs meatloaf!
The Star Saloon served its last meal New Year's Eve, I'm sorry to report. I'll be writing about its next occupant in a future Ask Tom column next month. Stay tuned.
Postcards: I was surprised you did another postcard from San Francisco when you haven't done one from Chicago even though you have mentioned wanting to go there. Why a repeat city (not that SF doesn't warrant a repeat visit) when there are other cities to visit? Tom Sietsema: Unofficial reason: Because I happened to be there and I happened to be on deadline, that's why.
Official reason: A lot of readers go to SF and the dining scene there changes frequently.
Good news for you: Chicago is my next destination.
Alexandria, Va.: Best ribs in Virginia? Tom Sietsema: I have yet to eat 'em. Readers?
Washington, D.C.: My office is planning a dinner for out of town guests of about 50. I suggested Occidential, Caucus Room and Old Ebbitt Grill. Which restaurant would you pick to handle such a large group? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: In order:
Caucus Room followed by Occidental followed by Old Ebbitt
Washington, D.C.: You have often said that Yanyu is a terrific restaurant. I was able to go for restaurant week. The food and atmosphere were really spectacular. However, the portions were incredibly small. The appetizer of foie gras sushi, was only one piece of sushi, followed by the duck which was the two smallest pancakes of duck, followed by an entree of seabass that was smaller than a krispy kreme donut. My friend and I agreed that each of the offerings was tasty, but we were still starving. We ordered dessert to try to solve our hunger, and with wine our tab was well over $100 for the two of us. After we left we went to the bar of another restaurant and immediately ordered appetizers (we were still starving). I think for a $100 we should have been full. I complained to friends, expecting that this was just a product of them trying to fit a three-course meal under the restaurant week prices, however, all of my friends who had been there before said that they were also very unimpressed with the portion sizes during regular dining. I am not one who thinks that bigger is better. I am appalled at the portions in some places like Cheesecake factory, Smith and Wallensky, and others who pile on the food. However, Yanyu seems to have a reputation for very small portions and I think you should mention this in your reviews. Or maybe recommend that you eat before you dine there, so as to not leave disappointed -- and hungry. Tom Sietsema: I agree, you shouldn’t leave a $100 dinner hungry. In my experience, Yanyu’s portions have been adequate. Maybe the restaurant trimmed back for the promotion?
Washington, D.C.: Ever go to a restaurant having a very bad night (bad service, kitchen mistakes, etc.) and then come back a few times more, have better experiences and give a good review? What is the worst experience you have had at a restaurant you recommend? No need to mention the name of the establishment, just the details of the bad evening. Tom Sietsema: That scenario is why I visit restaurants at least three times, and sometimes more, before reviewing them.
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
I was wondering how you got started as a food writer and if you could offer anyone interested in this field any advice. Thank you for your time. Tom Sietsema: Frankly, I fell into the business. My first real job out of college was assistant to Phyllis Richman, my predecessor, who at the time wore two hats: food editor and restaurant critic.
I took the job, thinking it would be a stepping stone to another sectionn, but fell in love with both the work and the subject and eventually stopped dreaming I might someday be a foreign correspondent. The Food section job combined a lot of grunt work (fact-checking, making restaurant reservations, researching) with reporting, recipe testing, copy editing, and some regular writing.
I always encourage budding food writers to read widely, develop a beat (expertise in some area), get acquainted with writers they admire, and practice, practice, practice their writing skills -- then show the work to someone whose eyes you trust for criticism and help. That's the short answer.
Washington, D.C.: Where locally (Washington D.C., Virginia or Maryland) can one find superb pommes frites? In our quest, and based on a good experience at Les Halles in NYC, my sister and I went to lunch on Sunday, the 19th January, at Les Halles in DC. Our meal was mediocre. The frites ordinary, the steak, although well flavored, too thin and chewy, the salad overdressed and all served on one plate. The Bloody Mary was watery. We would very much appreciate your suggestions in finding great pommes frites. Thank you. Tom Sietsema: I’m a fool for the french fries offered at Bistro du Coin, Breadline, Johnny’s Half Shell, Le Manniquin Pis, and Nick & Stef’s (where the snack gets upgraded to sweet potatoes with fresh ginger).
re: unconventional wine pairing: Try Chinese food with Champagne, Peking Duck with a Sangiovese - how's that for unconventional? Tom Sietsema: Actually, both make sense to me.
McLean, Va: Tom, where can I find a good Mexican place ? I recently went to Houston and had some of the best Mexican food. So far I have been unable to find anything around here that even comes close. Tom Sietsema: Join the crowd.
The Capitol City: I just got back from Aspen last week where we were treated like royalty in EVERY restaurant we ate at, in every price range. How would you feel Tom if your waiter didn't even LOOK at you while he was taking your order, tell you the specials, offer grated parmesan on the pasta? Well, it happened Monday at VIVO, and there were all of four tables so he was not in the weeds. I wrote on the check "The worst service I have ever received. I cannot wait to leave." But if the manager reads this, I got my food, but it was the human interaction that was lacking. And YES, I stiffed him. When the runner came with my soup there was no, "Here is your minestrone, etc." I was never asked if I wanted cheese on that but it was still delicious. This place has such potential and is a great addition to 17th St, but how about just a bit of kindness, please? Tom Sietsema: It's the little things that count, servers.
Diners like you to look 'em in the eye, acknowledge their needs in a timely fashion and be honest (you'd be surprised at how often I hear waiters make up things they haven't even tried).
Brrr. Time for lunch. Maybe a bowl of soup.
See you back here next Wednesday, gang.
© Copyright 2003 The Washington Post Company | 
