| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Feb. 12, 2003; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Tom Sietsema: Good morning, chatters. I thought I’d begin today’s discussion with some follow-up answers to several questions from last week’s lively give-and-take.
For our Vienna-bound friend, posters weighed in with suggestions for Steiereck and Plachutta.
Readers also offered more suggestions for matzo ball soup: Celebrity Deli in Cabin John, Chutzpah in Fairfax, Krupin’s on Wisconsin Ave. and the deli at Brookeville Market in Cleveland Park.
As for pancakes, some of you promoted the versions served by Metro 29 in Arlington, Carlyle Grand Café in Arlington, Jimmy T’s on the Hill, Trio on 17th St. NW, Southside 815 in Alexandria.
Finally, a late poster questioned the timeliness of my food reports from the road for the Travel section, which appear the first Sunday of each month. “You seem to be someplace a decent journey away on a regular basis ... and you obviously do a lot of eating/reviewing around here, so it makes me curious about how long ago you visited the restaurants in the Postcard from Tom column.” Let me assure you, my mini-reviews of distant restaurants are based on trips taken only about a month ahead of publication. Last week’s trip to Chicago, for instance, will be the theme for March 2.
I time my trips so that I don’t miss too many of these forums, and I do a LOT of reporting ahead of a scheduled visit to San Juan or Berlin or wherever, to make sure I’m going to restaurants that are worth your reading about. My trips can be as short as two days (though I manage to cover a lot of ground in that time frame).
Oh, one more thing: the owners of Johnny’s Half Shell called to let me know that the casual seafood restaurant is now open for dinner on Sundays.
Bring on your questions!
Arlington, Va.: Before the inevitable onslaught of "I forgot to make a reservation, where should I go for Valentine's Day" questions, I thought I'd slip in a different one. With all the talk about ar in Iraq/homeland security threats, coupled with the ordinary drain of D.C. metro traffic, I need a break! My husband and I are looking for a place to have a long, slow, relaxing meal -- no crowds, no TVs, just good food in an atmosphere that will make us forget about the outside world for awhile. We occasionally pay $100 for dinner, but anything much higher than that is out of our league. Tom Sietsema: A restaurant that doesn’t have CNN blaring away these days? Good luck finding one.
For a few hours you can probably escape the headlines at such tried-and-true places as Little Fountain Café in Adams Morgan, Kuna on U St. NW, Greenwood up on Connecticut Ave., Bistro Francais in Georgetown (ask for a table in the room to the right of the entrance) and Bacchus on Jefferson Place in Dupont Circle. That’s a start, and I hope the suggestions help.
Bend, Ore: Least favorite restaurant ever? Tom Sietsema: Trapped on one of those dinner cruises with loud music, dreadful entertainment, steam table cooking ... and no decent booze!
Northern Virginia: Tom, share your wisdom! Two vegetarians in Rockville on Saturday looking for lunch on a budget. We love ethnic but have exhausted Italian. Please help! Tom Sietsema: How about A & J for dim sum?
Washington, D.C.: What do you hear about that fancy Kosher restaurant Archives, I called to make a reservation and it is closed already for renovations? Is it not brand new? Or are they in trouble already? I hear that the owner has another restaurant that only opened a year ago, it has to be tough with the economic times to open two restaurants back to back. Have you been there yet or have you heard anything?
Thanks Tom Tom Sietsema: It’s true. Archives, which opened in December on 11th & Pennsylvania, currently is closed for renovations and expects to reopen “early spring” with a new look and a new menu. Among other changes, there will be space for private functions.
Washington, D.C.: Tom, You are my foodie idol! I read all your articles, Live Online, Etc. You truly capture the essence, atmosphere, and ambiance of each of your outstanding reviews. Please help. I have a dilemma. I just broke up with my girlfriend this past week and even though it has been harsh, I still want to celebrate (even if it is by myself) Valentines's day. I had made reservations at Tosca (I have not eaten here before) for this special night but now I am not sure if I should just break the reservation, or say the heck with it, I will make it for one and enjoy a fabulous meal. So I am not sure if this is pathetic or heroic? Maybe, I should just let some happy couple enjoy the reservation, and a romantic night enjoying the revered Tuscan fare from this great restaurant. p.s. Or what are some other options for a newly single foodie? Tom Sietsema: Though I do it infrequently, I love dining solo. Keep in mind, a formal restaurant such as Tosca is going to be filled with amorous couples this Friday – if you don’t mind the constant reminder of what you’ve just lost, I say, keep the reservation.
On the other hand, a seat at the bar (Tosca’s, or that of another restaurant you like) might be more relaxing, and you can probably count on the bartender for a bit of conversation.
As I said last week, ethnic is probably the best way to go if you want to dine out Feb. 14 and don’t have a confirmed reservation.
Alexandria, Va.: Tom, Not to ask an indelicate question, but are you able to do your job without looking like Augustus Gloop? (The size-challenged kid from "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.") Do you make any special efforts to stay in shape? Tom Sietsema: It can be a challenge not to gain weight in this gig.
Shortly after I was hired as food critic, I retained a personal trainer (forgive the one-time plug: the fledgling Evolution on M St. NW in Logan Circle) to avoid becoming “Augustus Gloop.”
I know, I know, it sounds elitist, but I look at a gym membership and one-on-one supervision as the best way to do my job. I feel better, eat less, and manage my cholesterol via this method. Plus, I have more energy for all those late nights ahead of me.
Still Hungry: Good morning, A friend of mine and I dined at Cafe Milano a couple of weeks ago. We ordered a salad, glass of wine, pasta (I had ravioli, she had angel hair), dessert (some type of chocolate cake), and hot tea. It is a rare occasion that I order dessert because I'm usually stuffed. My question is what is the appropriate way to handle a situation where you think the quantity of food is low? My friend’s bowl was brimming with pasta and I had maybe 8 or 9 raviolis. She wanted to ask the waiter where is the rest of her food? I had to eat again when I got home which is very disappointing after we spent over $100 for a meal. Tom Sietsema: One of the problems these days is that too many restaurants serve outsized portions; American consumers have come to expect Everests of salad greens and Flinstone-size plates of meat.
But eight pasta pockets does sound rather skimpy. Was there anything on the ravioli? Vegetables, seafood or other weightier garnishes? I might have politely registered my concern with a waiter or manager. A business won't bother to make changes if it doesn't get any feedback, after all.
Germantown, Md.: I am searching in vain on the washingtonpost.com Web site, but I cannot find any of your past postcards! Where are they? I'm specifically looking for one from San Francisco! THANKS! washingtonpost.com: You should find them all here in the Travel section Tom Sietsema: Ah, this will answer about 10 questions I see here regarding out-of-town restaurant advice. Thanks, Ms Producer.
College Park, Md.: Where's the best place to eat, on a college budget, for a one year anniversary? Tom Sietsema: Dim sum (Chinese snacks) and mezze (Middle Eastern appetizers) are affordable and romantic notions. Try Good Fortune in Wheaton or Meze (Turkish) in Adams Morgan.
Bethesda, Md.: I don't get it, Tom. Am I doing this wrong? This is the sixth time I'm submitting this question, and since you won't answer, I'm hoping you'll at least post it for others to respond to. I'm leaving for Vegas tomorrow and would like a nice meal with my boyfriend (preferably for Valentine's Day, but reservations are probably out of the question now). PLEASE help!!!!!
Thank you. Tom Sietsema: This is the first time I'm seeing this particular question, hon. Keep in mind there are a zillion messages coming my way. I simply can't get to 'em all. See the above link to my recommendations in Las Vegas.
Silver Spring Md.: Tom--First off I want to thank you for giving good PR to all the little treasures in our neighborhood like Samanthas and El Golfo. Beyond Latin cuisine, I think all those romantics out there should know about Sergios, a little hide-away and really good Italian restaurant. Like Fios on 16th(RIP) or Il Pizzico in Rockville, it's in the most unlikely location--the basement of the Hilton on Colesville Road. Its been there for like 20 years and is one of my favorites, but threatened I'm afraid by all the development in our area. Have you been? Tom Sietsema: It's on my wish list, but I have yet to scout it out. Thanks for the reminder.
Mmmm, burgers: Tom, The hopeless romantics that we are, my wife and I are heading out for burgers on Friday. Where would you go? Where are the best burgers in town? Tom Sietsema: Check out today's Weekly Dish (item 2): Grille 88 is doing a trio of mini-burgers for $12. But they aren't your father's patties. These are made with ostrich, beef and spicy buffalo!
On a more traditional note, I dig the burgers at Morton's (lunch only), Colorado Kitchen, Five Guys ....
Washington, D.C.: I want Italian for my birthday in March - which restaurants would you recommend in DC or close in? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Cheap 'n fun: Kuna on U St.
Moderate: Al Tiramisu
Expensive: Galileo, Tosca
Sheer bliss: the private Laboratorio in the rear of Galileo or Maestro in Tysons
Former Chicagoan: So what were your favorite places in my old hometown? I hope you got a chance at a Polish sausage with everything from a cart, at least once... Tom Sietsema: Been there, done that. (And what fun a hot dog tour of the Windy City can be!)
For this trip, I concentrated on the crop of new restaurants, including Naha, Spring, Platiyo and others. Chicago is a really exciting place to dine.
Washington, D.C.: What do you hear about Vidalia these days? I loved it several years ago, then heard it went downhill with the opening of Bistro Bis. Is Jeff Buben back in the kitchen, and are they back to nouveau Southern? Tom Sietsema: Rumor has it that the underground southern restaurant is getting a facelift. Foodwise, Peter Smith remains the day-to-day chef there.
Rockville, Md.: I'm going away to Williamsburg, Va. for the weekend. Do you have any suggestions of restaurants to visit either in Williamsburg or on the way there? Tom Sietsema: My favorite destination nearby is the elegant Ford's Colony.
Critiquing food and working out, Virginia: Tom, I wouldn't call it "elitist." In your case, I would call it "damage control." Your job sounds glamourous, but I'm sure there are hidden hazards to it.
Cheers! Tom Sietsema: "Damage control." I like it, I like it.
The reality is, this job is more of a challenge than just about anyone (save for my best friends, my editor and my predecessor) realizes.
The days are looooong. And I probably eat more bad food in the course of a year than most people do in a lifetime. There are a LOT of bad places among the gems. And as far as the writing goes, I'm essentially describing things I'm putting into my mouth -- try and make THAT entertaining week after week and guide after guide without falling into cliche or repetition!
That said, would I want to do anything else? No way! I have one of the best beats in the world.
Metro Center, washington, D.C.: What's the deal with Cafe Atlantico? I used to love it, but since the old chef left (sorry can't remember her name), I have been very disappointed with it. I've only eaten there once since the change so maybe it's better recently? Tom Sietsema: Cafe Atlantico is a work in progress. And it's been that way for a long while now. The cooking is kind of spotty: you can have memorable dishes and mistakes at the same meal. I wish the kitchen would get its act together, because the space is great and I adore the ambience.
Personal: Tom, are you doing anything special for Valentine's Day (gastronomically speaking, of course)? Tom Sietsema: Yep. I'm throwing a dinner party for six of my favorite people. I have no idea what I'm going to make yet (which is why I'm taking Friday off) but I'm leaning to something from the great new Zuni Cafe Cookbook.
Williamsburg: As a former William and Mary grad student (and a major foodie), let me add Ford's Colony's tasting menu is to die for. But on the cheap side, be sure to pick up a crab pizza (white sauce, a half-pound of crab meat and cheese-yummm!) and the best pecan pie in your life from the James River Pie company, literally a shack on the outskirts of town. Tom Sietsema: We're there! Thanks for the tip.
Washington DC: Dining in Williamsburg -- how could you leave out the Trellis?: simple but delicious food by Marcel Desaulnier, a James Beard award winner and Culinary Institute alum, who uses seasonal and local foods to create ever-changing menus. Tom Sietsema: I do not understand the appeal of the place myself. Sorry to disagree!
Washington, D.C.: Tom--Am I going to go to hell if I order red wine with sea food this Valentine's day? I prefer red wine over all--what's the protocol? Is red wine and sea food a big NO-NO? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: You are a chatter after my own heart: I, too, prefer most reds over most white wines. Bottom line, I'm a proponent of drinking what most pleases the buyer (with the notable exception of white zinfandel, which really out to be banned).
There are some classic red wine-with-fish matches, you should know. One of them is salmon with pinot noir.
Guilty pleasures: Tom, as you said in an earlier post, you have one of the best reporting and eating jobs ever. I have to ask though--do you ever get a craving for something really declassee, like ramen noodles or Twinkies or a Big Mac or a whole bag of chips in one sitting? Just wondering what the guilty pleasure of a professional are, out of curiosity. Tom Sietsema: True confessions: a pint of Haagen-Daz rum raisin ice cream doesn't last long in my presence. And I share Julia Child's passion for Frito's corn chips. Review dinners that leave me hungry sometimes are followed by quick detours to Popeye's.
Why do I feel as if I'm on the couch today?
Is my invitation lost?: Aren't I one of your six favorite people? Tom Sietsema: It depends on who you are!
Washington, D.C.: Tom - last week you commented on the lack of hot or warm water in the women's room in a restaurant being a health issue. Water from a regular faucet does not get hot enough to kill bacteria or sanitize -- it's more important to make sure that there is a sanitizing soap to wash with. The warm water is more of a tactile convenience, and the related plumbing can be expensive (although any restaurant of decent quality should be able to spring for some hot water in the bathrooms). Tom Sietsema: I’m no expert on this, but what you say makes sense. I still like to see hot water offered in a public bathroom, though.
Washington, D.C.: Where can I get the best carrot cake in town? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: The last slice of carrot cake I can recall seeing (and enjoying) was at The Diner on 18th St. It’s open 24/7, by the way.
Arlington, Va.: Where can I go for great steak frites? I've been hooked by the version at Le Mannequin Pis in Olney, but it's had to be more of a special- occasion thing, as it's a bit of a drive from Arlington. Can you recommend some places a bit closer to home? Tom Sietsema: How about marinated rib eye with hand-cut fries at the new Circle Bistro near GWU on Washington Circle? Scrumptious stuff. And I recall having more traditional, and very good, steak frites at Bistro Bis on the Hill awhile back, too.
Alexandria, Va. and Washington, D.C.: Tom, help us settle an office argument. Based on your opinion (which is subjective, of course, but more informed than 99.9 percent of the public's) do you think there is a wide gap/small gap/or no gap at all in restaurant quality between the District and the 'burbs? Yes, both places have some big-name restaurants, and a large share of ethnic. But do you think the overall quality and vibrancy of the dining scene still tilts toward the city, as in years past? Tom Sietsema: The choices in the suburbs are getting better with each passing season: Maestro and the new 2941 would certainly keep me close to Tysons Corner or Falls Church, respectively, if I was looking for a grand night out in Northern Virginia. And I think the ethnic choices in the suburbs, where a lot of Hispanics and Asians live and work, are more varied and better than what Washingtonians might find in, say, Adams Morgan or Chinatown.
But the capital is bursting with energy these days, as a quick tour of the Penn Quarter neighborhood alone reveals. Zaytinya, Poste, Zola (at least its wine list) and other new restaurants are really brightening up the scene. In addition, a lot of veteran restaurants are bringing on fresh cooking talent -- which translates into innovation on the table. The off economy is forcing restaurants to come up with enticing ways to build or maintain customers.
Wish I had more time to continue, but the clock is ticking ...
Washington, D.C.: Cakelove does great carrot cake! So does Amernick, but it must be ordered WAY in advance, and you have to deal with those funky operating hours to get it. Tom Sietsema: Both sound like worthy suggestions.
Re: Steak Frites:: Cafe Deluxe on Wisconsin does a great job with this--and for about $13, if I recall correctly. Tom Sietsema: Yeah, but you have to endure those snooty hostesses!
Laurel, Md.: I've been dieting for six months and lost 30 pounds. Frito's Corn Chips are the single biggest obstacle to continuing.
Tom Sietsema: I feel your pain. (And congrats on shedding all those lbs!)
Washington, D.C.: Tom, As you mentioned, you eat at a lot of bad places to find the gems...but we mostly just read about the gems. It would be just as useful, if not more so, if we could also somehow hear about the bad places. Maybe you could just post a list for us without much detail. Maybe just a quick "OK", "Horrible", "Food poisoning", etc next to each? I'm making more work for you, I know. Tom Sietsema: Kind of like bloopers or outtakes from my dining visits, huh? To be fair, of course, I'd have to pen something more than "food poisoning" or "horrible" alongside the misadventures.
Washington, D.C.: I've learned a lot from your reviews and chats in the past and I'm hoping you can help me out. I'm considering both Maestro and Laboratorio del Galileo for a special occasion dinner (husband is getting tenure). I've noticed Maestro also does a tasting menu that seems similar to Laboratorio. Can you give me a sense of how the two restaurants differ in food and service? To give you a sense of our likes -- we loved the Inn at Little Washington, but we also really enjoy the neighborhood-y feel we get at a place like Kuna. Don't mind paying top-dollar, but only if the experience and food is going to be stellar across the board. I'd appreciate your insight. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Both restaurants are excellent, and both kitchens are open to the dining rooms, so you get the show of watching your meal being made not far from your table.
Based on recent visits, I think Maestro is offering Italian food with more flair in terms of both ideas and presentation. As far as the interiors are concerned, Galileo is clean and spare and intimate; Maestro is rich and handsome and more spread out.
Arlington, Va.: Tom, Have you any recommended establishments for a Chicago-style hot dog? Not the places in the mall that serve the mushy, gooey knock-offs, but a real Chicago dog! I live in Arlington so ideal locations would be Arlington, Alexandria, or the city. Tom Sietsema: Johnny’s Half Shell in Dupont Circle serves the area’s best dawg, but only for lunch. Billed as a “Baltimore” hot dog on the menu, the juicy sausage actually hails from a Chicago source and comes with excellent french fries and house-made relish.
I'm starving, folks. See you back next week. Have a great Feb. 14!
Washington, D.C.: Tom, I've seen you respond to some inquiries with the phrase, "LOL." What does the phrase/acronym stand for? Tom Sietsema: Laugh Out Loud
Outta here now ...
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