| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Feb. 19, 2003; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Great Falls, Va.: Tom, just want you to know how much I enjoy and anticipate all your columns and weekly online chats. Simply first-rate foodie information and entertainment. My question for you is this: How does someone who is still attempting to determine what she wants to be when she "grows up" break into your field? What does it take as far as training, education, experience, background to be a restaurant critic of your stature? Any personal reflections or advice on the matter? Thanks -- and just keep the good stuff coming! Tom Sietsema: First, thanks for the kind words.
There are many routes to this kind of career. My colleagues around the country come from backgrounds as diverse as textiles (Irene Virbila at the Los Angeles Times), art history (Ruth Reichl of Gourmet), sports writing (Alan Richman of GQ), cooking school (Amanda Hesser of the New York Times), even music (Robert Sietsema of the Village Voice, and no relation). My background is in foreign service, and I lucked into a job as news aide to Phyllis Richman (sociology and urban planning) right out of college, during which time I learned how to cook, edit recipes, develop a story from an idea and navigate the ways of a newspaper. So there’s no single “right” path to follow.
A flair for writing is key, of course: plan to immerse yourself in the work of the best food scribes (start with M.F.K. Fisher) and practice, practice, practice your own writing, then show your efforts to someone whose writing or editing skills you admire.
It helps to have a point of view and an area of expertise, too. Are you interested in wine writing? Restaurant reviewing? Cooking-related pieces? Depending on what you are interested in, sign up for a wine seminar, try your hand waiting tables to get a feel for how restaurants operate, or take cooking classes.
When you feel more confident, approach the editors of small neighborhood newsletters or local magazines with story ideas and samples of what you’ve written; too many people want to start at the top, but the reality is, getting there takes time and patience and luck.
Good morning, everyone, and thanks for showing up on this unusual winter morning.
Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: The $50-per-head brunch at Melrose on Sundays -- worth it? Tom Sietsema: It depends on how many omelets you can eat.
Bottom line: I'm not a big fan of expensive meals that are sort of like breakfast and kind of like lunch and require you to take a nap afterwards because OF COURSE you want to indulge in another mimosa at that price.
Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C.: Do you think it's 'safe' to go to restaurants now (with the blizzard is all their food like 3 days old)? Are they getting any deliveries? Tom Sietsema: Good question. I went to a Japanese restaurant last night that didn't get its fish order in. No sushi for me!
Bethesda, Md.: I would like to say, after all the good reviews I read about Addie's, I was quite disappointed when I went there last night. The angus was way too fatty, the pumpkin bread pudding was cold, we didn't get our bread until entree time. AND it was super expensive. Tom Sietsema: It sure doesn’t sound like any of my six meals at the restaurant. Did you mention any of these problems to your server?
Sterling Va.: Hello Tom,
I have been wondering why some restaurants get very favorable reviews in our local publications, yet when I try them they really don't dazzle like I expect. For instance, I recently dined at Mark's Duck House in Falls Church, and although some things were good in particular the soups and sauteed spinach with garlic, the combo fried rice was bad at best, and the Peking Duck was average at best! The kicker was that we had to wait over 15 minutes for a server to even offer a drink, then he was rude as we were first time diners, and he didn't want to offer the least bit of assistance. Was even annoyed when a fellow diner asked a pretty simple question. My thought was why does this place receive such accolades, when it isn't a really wonderful place? It is unique YES! It is okay yes, but great, I don't think so. As far as the Duck is concerned, I ate better duck in the touristy Chinatown haunts. I guess if you advertise in magazines and newspapers it helps your status in the restaurant circles. I enjoy your chats, keep up the good feedback! Tom Sietsema: You didn’t read any rave review of Mark’s from me. (I agree with your assessment.) As far as advertising is concerned, I ignore who does and doesn’t buy space in the Post.
Washington, D.C.: Tom, I hear Poste now has a new chef. What is your take? Tom Sietsema: It’s way too early to judge. I plan to let him settle in (as I do all newcomers) before writing anything. A menu of his own design won’t be out til next month, by the way.
Snow Bound, Washington, D.C.: Okay, Tom. We're all dying to know how your dinner party went and what you served your guests. Fess up! Tom Sietsema: It went pretty well, if I do say so myself. The hits of the meal seemed to be the Parmesan-crusted lamb chops (based on a Marcella Hazan recipe) and Moroccan-spiced carrots.
Believe it or not, I even made crème brulee, which I personally don’t care for but know that my friends enjoy (two of them were celebrating birthdays). I added candied ginger and a dab of raspberry jam to the centers of the custards, by the way, for added surprise.
Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom, I love the chats and wanted your take on a situation. Recently, my husband and I dined at one of Washington's top restaurants. We anticipated a wonderful, relaxing meal since we've dined there before, and had only positive experiences. The food was, as expected, quite superb. However, we were disturbed throughout the meal by a man (seated at a nearby table) who'd clearly had too much to drink. He was loud and rather crude. Since the entire staff was aware of his behavior, and did nothing to stop him, we were a little at a loss as to what we should done. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Tom Sietsema: I would have excused myself from the table and let the maitre d’ know that I was being made to feel uncomfortable. A good manager will do his or her best to remedy the problem.
Case in point: Not long ago, a friend and I were lunching at Café Milano when two guys, who seemed to be regulars, lit up cigars near us. My friend and I sat in a blue cloud for a minute before I asked the manager if we could be moved from the problem. We were immediately reseated elsewhere.
Silver Spring, Md.: Tom, how come there are so few restaurant reviews that focus on PG County or other quadrants of the city? I find it tough to believe that there are so few worthy dining destinations in these areas, and I am always searching for tasty places to eat closer to home. What gives? Tom Sietsema: Frankly, there aren't that many review-worthy places in PG County, though the Magazine will shed some light on that neck of the woods in a forthcoming issue.
My strategy since I began this job is to review each month two places in the District and a place each in Virginia and Maryland. If you look at my choices, you'll see a wide range of neighborhoods and cuisine styles. And while I spend plenty of time in SW/SE/NE Washington looking for restaurants to tell you about, the best ones are concentrated in NW.
Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Tom, I enjoy good food as much as the next guy, but have limited finances. I have been thinking of eating out more for lunch. Do top restaurants offer the same quality cooking and ingredients at lunch, or do they economize when they offer their services for greatly reduced prices? Tom Sietsema: You are a smart diner. Portions tend to be smaller, and you might find fewer luxury ingredients at noon, but that doesn't mean that the kitchen is giving you a lesser performance. Right now, for instance, both Corduroy and the Oval Room are offering great lunch deals that reflect their success with Restaurant Week promotions.
Re: rude/ drunk diner: I had the same problem a long time ago at Equinox. No one did a thing, even after we complained. I will never return. Tom Sietsema: Well, it's a tricky situation. Especially if the boor is a regular patron. I'd definitely give Equinox another chance.
Washington, D.C.: Is it proper to ask for a "customized" price fixe menu, when the menu is fixed? Tom Sietsema: I'm not sure I know what you mean. Most such menus offer several appetizers and several entrees from which to choose.
Can you order one dish without its cream sauce? Probably.
Can you order the filet mignon from the standing menu? Probably not (at least not without being charged extra for the upgrade).
Bethesda, Md.: Hi, Tom. If you don't get to our question during the chat, is it acceptable to e-mail you directly, or do you get swamped there, too? And what if we just want to comment on particularly good or bad service but don't need a reply -- do you welcome such comments? Tom Sietsema: Thanks for asking the question. I prefer that chatters send comments and questions to me at asktom@washpost.com and not my personal (business) account.
Little secret: Your best chance of having me respond to you quickly is Sunday morning, when I come into the office to wade through my messages, or early on weekdays, when I spend the first 30 minutes of the morning responding to mail.
Finally, I appreciate and encourage feedback from readers, pro and con.
Somewhere, USA: Could you be persuaded to print the recipe for your Morroccan spiced carrots (for a grandmother who is always trying to get her grandgirls to eat their carrots). Love your chats. Tom Sietsema: I could. Let me type it into the system and post it here next Wednesday, ok?
Washington, D.C.: Tom,
Why do so many bad restaurants stay in business? Are so many diners unconcerned about the quality of food? Tom Sietsema: Food is not all. Some people just want to be coddled for a night -- and could care less that the beef is overcooked or the wine is overpriced. Other diners look for a diverting scene -- and don't mind eating mediocre seafood or overwrought desserts for the pleasure.
It's really hard to get the whole thing right: setting, service, cooking.
Washington, D.C.: Do you know of any Vietnamese "Pho" Noodle Soup places in the Dupont/Foggy Bottom area? We frequent one in Gaithersburg on Shady Grove Road at least once a week, but haven't been able to find one downtown that we like. The soups are a very light, healthy meal -- especially for lunch. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Unfortunately, I haven’t spotted pho (Vietnamese beef noodle soup, dressed up with lime, onions, mint and such) anywhere in downtown Washington. Chatters?
Washington, D.C.: Can you think of a good, moderately priced option for holding a Saturday baby shower/luncheon for about eight? Georgetown is ideal but any ideas you have would be welcome. Many thanks. Tom Sietsema: The side room of the Turkish-themed Cafe Divan on Wisconsin Ave. comes to mind, as does the new Pizzeria Paradiso, which has a private room downstairs, on M St. NW. And if Mendocino Grill is open on Saturday, that restaurant is another option in G'town.
Washington, D.C.: Tom:
Last week the Wall Street Journal reported that two state legislators, one each in Maine and New York, are considering introducing legislation to require restaurants to include nutritional information on their menus. How do you feel about this and what effect do you think this type of law would have on restaurants in those states and, if introduced and passed here, D.C.? Thanks.
Grappa Forever! Tom Sietsema: As if some restaurant menus aren’t long enough. It’s one thing to ask a fast feeder with a set script to offer such information, but I think it would pose a lot of unnecessary hurdles for independent restaurateurs, some of whom change their menus daily or weekly to reflect the season and what’s in the market.
On the flip side, I can see where such information might be useful to people on diets or with severe allergies. But can’t those diners just ask the kitchen to omit off-limits ingredients ahead of a meal? (Except at Greenwood, I hasten to add!)
New York, N.Y.: I understand that California's great restaurant, French Laundry, will be opening an outpost in Manhattan. How well do you think this establishment will transfer? Thanks. Love these chats. Tom Sietsema:
I was sad to hear that news, truth be told. The French Laundry is a one-of-a-kind place whose environment and California accent will be mighty difficult to replicate in the Big Apple.
Years ago, I remember when Paul Prudhomme attempted to recreate his K-Paul's concept in New York City. It didn't click. For one thing, New Yorkers hated sharing their tables with complete strangers, as is the drill at K-Paul's in New Orleans.
Melrose Brunch: Hi Tom,
Just want to clarify that the Melrose $50 brunch includes the appetizer buffet (raw bar, lox, veggie salads, etc.), a huge entree of your choice and then the most amazing dessert buffet I've ever seen (who IS that gal I've seen setting it up?). Considering the level of service,attention and quality of food, well-worth the albeit hefty price of $50 per person. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: I should have elaborated on that. But still, I'm no fan of such a spread in the middle of the day.
Latin Dim Sum No More (?): Hi Tom,
I was planning to have a 6-8 friends for Latin Dim Sum at Cafe Atlantico this Sunday (see your original recommendation below). Alas, the price has jumped from $19.95 to $34.95 per person($24.95 for vegetarians) -- which is not nearly the value it was when I went in August. Any ideas of a cool place in D.C. for adventurous food as a substitute? We're thinking either Sunday brunch or Sunday dinner.
Thanks! Tom Sietsema: How about the Indian brunch at the romantic Bombay Club on Connecticut Ave., the Turkish spread at Meze on 18th St. NW, or Andean-style tapas (for dinner) in the Bohemian digs of the Chi Cha Lounge on U St. NW?
Chevy Chase, Md.: Tom, I am desperate for an answer. I haven't seen my father and step-mother in over a year-and-a-half. They will be here next Tuesday night to pick someone up at Dulles Airport. We are going to have dinner, but I am having trouble picking a good restaurant as I am not familiar with too many restaurants in Virginia. I am looking for a good restaurant that is in the vicinity of either McLean (where I work), Arlington (where their hotel is), or somewhere on the way toward Dulles Airport. They are a couple of foodies, but we are looking for a relatively casual restaurant. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Tom Sietsema: I can think of several places in Arlington to suit your needs, including the casual but pretty Minh’s (Vietnamese), Layalina (Middle Eastern) and Big Bowl (bustling pan-Asian).
Galileo's Bar: Tom, I read with great interest your recent review of Galileo's bar offerings, including a couple of dishes for about $7 that sounded great. But when I sat down at a table in the bar area the waiter said the restaurant served only the normal dinner menu in the bar. Did I misread your review? Tom Sietsema: Alas, you misread the review. The bar menu with all those delicious bargains is offered only at lunch, which I pointed out in both the review and the restaurant key.
Sterling, Va.: Hi Tom, I love these chats! I checked out your postcards from San Francisco. I will be there for my Anniversary this year (uh, next week!) and was wondering if you could recommend an appropriate place to celebrate this event that possibly didn't make your postcards. We're looking for romance and great service -- somewhere where they make you feel special. Thanks for your help! washingtonpost.com: Tom's Postcard from San Francisco, (Post, Nov. 19, 2000) Tom Sietsema: The one restaurant I always make time for in San Francisco –- and I’m always glad I do -- is Zuni Café on Market St. (415) 552-2522.
It is best experienced at the copper bar with a plate of sparkling fresh oysters and a glass of white wine, followed by a seat near the kitchen’s fireplace on the ground floor. The cooking is Mediterranean in spirit. Some of my favorite dishes include an appetizer of anchovies with shaved celery and Parmesan (the real deal); the roast chicken for two, served atop a bread “salad”; espresso granite for dessert.
There are two more recent Postcards from San Francisco in the Travel section archives, fyi.
washingtonpost.com: Postcard from Tom, San Francisco, (May 5, 2002) Tom Sietsema: Here's one, and there's another from just last month, too.
Washington, D.C.: Pho: I think Nam Viet in Cleveland Park is as close as you'll get to Dupont Circle. There are a few Vietnamese places in Chinatown. I haven't tried them yet, so I'm not sure if they serve pho. Tom Sietsema: Ah, yes, thanks for the reminder.
Washington, D.C.: Difference in Attitude: I find the contrast in attitude between L'Auberge Chez Francois (mentioned in today's Weekly Dish), where the kitchen staff would lift and move a car for a patron, and your comment about Greenwoods, where they won't prepare a recipe omitting deadly allergy-inducing ingredients, very interesting. I think I know which one I'll try next. Just a decision by one consumer. Tom Sietsema: LOL (laugh out loud)
Washington, D.C: Re: New Yorkers don't like to share tables- What about the Carnegie Deli!? Tom Sietsema: There are always exceptions.
Washington, D.C.: Hello, Tom, do you know of any culinary-related nonprofit organizations in the DC metro area? I Googled it but mostly came across food banks. I'm a college student ISO a nonprofit org to profile for a project. Tom Sietsema: Two worthy local causes: Share Our Strength and Food for Friends.
RE: Drunk Diner: We had a similar problem at a very hip restaurant here in Chicago, MOD. The guy next to us was clearly drunk, loud and obnoxious, groping the waitress and they continued to serve him alcohol! We complained to our waitress (the one who was being groped) but she laughed it off. Finally, another diner complained to a manager and belatedly they asked the guy to leave. I suspect that in such situations, the restaurant wants to keep the drunk diner there as long as possible because he is running up quite a tab! But it can ruin the experience of other diners. Tom Sietsema: Sounds like a lawsuit waiting to happen, if you ask me. I mean, what if this guy had attempted to drive home? Frightening scenario.
Woodley Park, Washington, D.C.: RE: RAW food -- do any restaurants in the metro area serve this? My brother in Los Angeles says its a big deal out there. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Raw food is enjoying its 15 minutes of fame out West right now, but I'd be surprised to see the fad last, or make its way out here. It is very labor-intensive, for starters.
I Street, Washington, D.C.: Tom, My fiance and and I have decided to treat each other to a decadent meal as a wedding gift to each other. We want a great meal but of course atmosphere is critical as well. Keeping romance in mind, if price was no object, where would you choose? Tom Sietsema: I love the understated elegance of the new 2941 restaurant in Falls Church, just 11 miles from downtown Washington (and worth the detour, as the Michelin guide would say).
Washington, D.C.: TO: Tom Could you recommend a very nice restaurant in D.C. -- Continental cuisine, very formal service, lovely room, etc. There used to be a "five star" place in the Mayflower hotel called Nicholas -- but it unfortunately closed several years ago. Thanks Tom Sietsema: Continental cooking is not that common here. But if it’s grand cooking and pampering service in a refined setting you’re after, you can’t do better than Marcel’s (French-Belgian) on Pennsylvania Ave.
Washington, D.C.: Last weekend, we visited Philadelphia. It has developed into quite a restaurant city. One thing especially caught the attention of my wife, the dessert junkie. Four Seasons offered a dessert buffet with an amazing selection for only $11 per person after eight p.m. Does any restaurant in our fair city offer anything similar? Tom Sietsema: Not to my knowledge. But if I've missed something sweet, please let me know. I like the idea.
That's all for today, chatters. Stay warm til next week. © Copyright 2003 The Washington Post Company | 
